Awesome bit of kit, and that cost, I would say is fairly indicitive of what it would cost regardless of the base vehicle. What does put me off the RR is the running costs in the background, fair enough if you have the disposable income to justify the ongoing maintenance but the cost of the recent rebuild would have had a large impact on that figure i would imagine.
The base vehicle recent costs, well, that’s life, things break, and those are not included, but agree, it’s busted the budget a tad. However, it’s a process, slowly fixing things that needed attention through wear and tear and neglect. It’s almost there now, I’m happy with it, few small changes, a few more additions, but generally, it’s there.
Great video, and series. Single handedly convinced me to buy an L322 to convert with my two boys. One question I have is about carrying fuel; do you ever carry spare fuel and if so how do you go about storing it please?
Thanks, nope. 100 litre tank and distances in Europe mean no need to carry extra fuel, always a station to fill up. I get approx 500 miles / 900 kms a tank
Tremendous job! Everything looks great and of a good quality. I would really like to find a set of wheels like yours for a similar price. Thanks for the video!
There should be plenty in the US. I’m looking into 18” wheels options again to see if I can grind down the caliper to make them fit over either the TUF ANT of COMPOMOTIVE wheels If 19”s fit, them I’m convinced that 18”s will, with some mods, where there is a will ….
Those TUF ANT wheels look great! I did a quick search for your wheels and they are available, but nothing close that I could see for the price you got them for.
Hi Mark , I’ve installed a dc/ dc changer in my l322 (2011) , there is a plastic disc behind the starter battery on the bulkhead which you can drill through and feed your battery cables down, the cable comes out to the left of the glove box and can then be fed under the carpet to the back to feed the dc/dc charger Hope this helps
Hey David, have started to get the cable routed, I found the white plastic disc to the left of the fuse box, I’m assuming that is where you drilled into? It has a cable / wires through it with a moulted grommet, assume this is what you meant as the plastic disc? Have to go easy drilling into the disc as there are a lot of wires down there.
I can do a quick run through of them. They a “rock” solid and fit to factory mounting points, they make for excellent steps too, allowing me to get to the roof boxes. Only decent option in Europe / UK
Great to see it back on the road. When they fitted the new turbos did they put it back on the factory map or are you still running the remap software mate?
Hi Mark. When you were discussing limited options for roof racks, I think you forgot about Frontrunners. Sam from Sam's Motor & Machine installed this on his L322, and I think it looks quite nice. I have one on my Subaru and can vouch for its durability. I hope this helps your other viewers. Sam's video is here: ruclips.net/video/GQGiUXzb5Q4/видео.html
You get get a kit from OZ to charge your batteries from the vehicle system. No need to go through the firewall. I rum an optima yellow top in the rear.
I can pump over 60amps of charge through my BCDC 40 amp charger and my manager 30 from my start battery now, so I can top up my 200ah lithium battery bank, in just a few hours of driving. For my needs, I need this set-up.
Question: why spend money on an EAS controller at all if you change the height so seldom? Your IIDTool has 3 memory "slots" for suspension height settings which allows a change in height to be effected in under 30 sec. That is not an insignificant savings in your total. (and yes, I am not impartial. But I am as interested in finding out if you did not know this as I am in hearing your reasoning if you did know). 🙂 And a point of minor critique - I don't think your last example, Redarc vs Victron, is fair. I understand your point, though you commented that you don't "want to cut corners" in relation to these 2 brands. It makes it sound as if Victron is lower quality than Redarc, and this is something I doubt very seriously. Victron is a high end provider in solar and all sorts of power management solutions including industrial applications whereas Redarc is more a niche supplier. What Redarc does have going for it is that the Vision UI is more suited to overlanding than any of Victron's products. But as far as building a vehicle where "you can trust the componentry" you haven't gained anything. IMO (absolutely no affiliations to Victron, don't even have any of their products at the moment, btw)
BTW, I am of the opinion that an overland vehicle that you have refurbished yourself is a better choice than possibly even a brand new vehicle. I know every nook, cranny, bit and bob on my L322. And I am not sure how far I trust my new Defender's MHEV system and all the other components yet. Not a very early adopter with a MY23, but still... If I were to prepare a car for a trip to the Cape of Good Hope and worry about a budget at the same time, I'd choose a used vehicle, refurbish it and build it to my specs. You're still not even at half the cost of a new Defender all in. 👍
The EAS controller has far more flexibility than the GAP tool, up and down settings, and it doesn’t affect the all up settings, or the all down settings on height. It also has an auto levelling feature, I used that a lot when I had the RTT. In my opinion, it’s a better option for my use. Each to his own, redarc products are for vehicles, not generic applications like Victron, Redarc has been tested in tough conditions, proven, and that’s what counts in my book. Victron, too generic. Not knocking it, I had a Victron MPPT on the defender, but it;’s redarc for me all the ey
Agreed, I know this vehicle inside out, because I built it, I know where all the wring is routed, where to get at things behind panels, I know, because it wasn’t farmed out.
Very informative video, 30k is good value - you can pay over 40k for a Honda Jazz hybrid and you can't overland in it!
Absolutely!
I enjoy your videos but I'd like to see more of you actually taking it off road .
Coming soon!
There are plenty of the vehicle off road in Spain and Portugal
Awesome bit of kit, and that cost, I would say is fairly indicitive of what it would cost regardless of the base vehicle. What does put me off the RR is the running costs in the background, fair enough if you have the disposable income to justify the ongoing maintenance but the cost of the recent rebuild would have had a large impact on that figure i would imagine.
The base vehicle recent costs, well, that’s life, things break, and those are not included, but agree, it’s busted the budget a tad. However, it’s a process, slowly fixing things that needed attention through wear and tear and neglect.
It’s almost there now, I’m happy with it, few small changes, a few more additions, but generally, it’s there.
Great video, and series. Single handedly convinced me to buy an L322 to convert with my two boys. One question I have is about carrying fuel; do you ever carry spare fuel and if so how do you go about storing it please?
Thanks, nope. 100 litre tank and distances in Europe mean no need to carry extra fuel, always a station to fill up. I get approx 500 miles / 900 kms a tank
Tremendous job! Everything looks great and of a good quality. I would really like to find a set of wheels like yours for a similar price. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much!
There should be plenty in the US. I’m looking into 18” wheels options again to see if I can grind down the caliper to make them fit over either the TUF ANT of COMPOMOTIVE wheels If 19”s fit, them I’m convinced that 18”s will, with some mods, where there is a will ….
Those TUF ANT wheels look great! I did a quick search for your wheels and they are available, but nothing close that I could see for the price you got them for.
Hi Mark , I’ve installed a dc/ dc changer in my l322 (2011) , there is a plastic disc behind the starter battery on the bulkhead which you can drill through and feed your battery cables down, the cable comes out to the left of the glove box and can then be fed under the carpet to the back to feed the dc/dc charger
Hope this helps
I’ll take a look, thanks 👍🏻
Hey David, have started to get the cable routed, I found the white plastic disc to the left of the fuse box, I’m assuming that is where you drilled into? It has a cable / wires through it with a moulted grommet, assume this is what you meant as the plastic disc? Have to go easy drilling into the disc as there are a lot of wires down there.
would love to see a video on the sliders.. they are hard to source but give it an amazing practical off roader look
I can do a quick run through of them. They a “rock” solid and fit to factory mounting points, they make for excellent steps too, allowing me to get to the roof boxes. Only decent option in Europe / UK
@@Overlanding4WD thanks mate
Great to see it back on the road. When they fitted the new turbos did they put it back on the factory map or are you still running the remap software mate?
Still running the remap 👍🏻
Hi Mark. When you were discussing limited options for roof racks, I think you forgot about Frontrunners. Sam from Sam's Motor & Machine installed this on his L322, and I think it looks quite nice. I have one on my Subaru and can vouch for its durability. I hope this helps your other viewers. Sam's video is here: ruclips.net/video/GQGiUXzb5Q4/видео.html
You get get a kit from OZ to charge your batteries from the vehicle system. No need to go through the firewall. I rum an optima yellow top in the rear.
Doesn’t work on ‘10-‘12 L322’s at the pick up in the rear, because mine has a smart alternator and that pick up point doesn’t see 14.7v consistently.
I can pump over 60amps of charge through my BCDC 40 amp charger and my manager 30 from my start battery now, so I can top up my 200ah lithium battery bank, in just a few hours of driving. For my needs, I need this set-up.
Do you know if all the L405 wheels have that offset advantage? Cheers Ian
@iansenior1549 I’m not 100% sure, but, I see no reason why they would be different.
I'd love it once you're ready to get shut... Do a raffle so someone like me can be lucky 😀👍
You mean shot? It’s not going anywhere, it’s my car for the foreseeable future. Too much invested, and way too good a car now👍🏻
Question: why spend money on an EAS controller at all if you change the height so seldom? Your IIDTool has 3 memory "slots" for suspension height settings which allows a change in height to be effected in under 30 sec. That is not an insignificant savings in your total. (and yes, I am not impartial. But I am as interested in finding out if you did not know this as I am in hearing your reasoning if you did know). 🙂
And a point of minor critique - I don't think your last example, Redarc vs Victron, is fair. I understand your point, though you commented that you don't "want to cut corners" in relation to these 2 brands. It makes it sound as if Victron is lower quality than Redarc, and this is something I doubt very seriously. Victron is a high end provider in solar and all sorts of power management solutions including industrial applications whereas Redarc is more a niche supplier. What Redarc does have going for it is that the Vision UI is more suited to overlanding than any of Victron's products. But as far as building a vehicle where "you can trust the componentry" you haven't gained anything. IMO (absolutely no affiliations to Victron, don't even have any of their products at the moment, btw)
BTW, I am of the opinion that an overland vehicle that you have refurbished yourself is a better choice than possibly even a brand new vehicle. I know every nook, cranny, bit and bob on my L322. And I am not sure how far I trust my new Defender's MHEV system and all the other components yet. Not a very early adopter with a MY23, but still... If I were to prepare a car for a trip to the Cape of Good Hope and worry about a budget at the same time, I'd choose a used vehicle, refurbish it and build it to my specs. You're still not even at half the cost of a new Defender all in. 👍
The EAS controller has far more flexibility than the GAP tool, up and down settings, and it doesn’t affect the all up settings, or the all down settings on height. It also has an auto levelling feature, I used that a lot when I had the RTT. In my opinion, it’s a better option for my use.
Each to his own, redarc products are for vehicles, not generic applications like Victron, Redarc has been tested in tough conditions, proven, and that’s what counts in my book. Victron, too generic.
Not knocking it, I had a Victron MPPT on the defender, but it;’s redarc for me all the ey
Agreed, I know this vehicle inside out, because I built it, I know where all the wring is routed, where to get at things behind panels, I know, because it wasn’t farmed out.
£15k aint too bad