Nice, simple advice 👍 Most people usually quote the “V, to the knee, 1 2 3” mantra to beginners however I tend to find that the people I’ve helped learn to belay perform the steps so slowly and rigidly that when when they do the V, they keep the rope up and parallel for waaay to long so I’m glad you’ve mentioned how important it is the get that hand back down ASAP. I now tell people “pull and arch down, 1 2 3”. This way they’re making more of a smooth upward and then downward arch. It’s seems to have worked for everyone so far 😊
Thank you-yes, we’ve found the same thing with the ‘V’ part of the mantra, and have sometimes used numbers to help novices keep a rhythm in the early stages of learning.
Climbing Nomads Sorry yeah the “1 2 3” part is to do with the hand swapping... 1 - bring the left hand down to the dead end just below the belay device... 2 - slide the right up to meet it... 3 - return the left to the live end aaaaand repeat 😀 I also prefer people do the slide up thing rather than place above the left as sliding up means there’s at least a fist width between the hand and the belay device so the chances of the hand getting sucked into the device when a climber falls is much less. I’ve had this happen to me and it hurts a lot and of course instinct is to let go which can end very badly 😣
@@TheClimbingNomads I had my first top rope belaying lesson this week, no one was dropped or whipped or short ropped. Id like to think this video helped towards that. Thank you. Learning lead belay this coming week so I will be rewatching your lead belay video :D
There's an interesting point at 4:47 "Free Running Ropes". Some centres recommend adding a twist to increase friction when there's a weight difference between climber and belayer, and the belayer needs some extra support. As an alternative to using a ground anchor or ballast bag. The bonus here is that the belayer is free to move around still; though as you say there's increased wear on the ropes.
I would always try and avoid ropes rubbing against each other and would personally not encourage new climbers into this practice. I can see the benefit of adding some extra friction whilst allowing the belayer to still move around but would worry about the extra wear on the ropes and beginners thinking that ropes running over each other is not a problem in other situations. If a belayer is used to using the rope twist system it could also make it harder when learning to belay a lead climber.
@@TheClimbingNomads I'm fully behind you here - I've always been brought up avoiding rubbing ropes where possible and I always pass this on to my own students. I'm currently exploring the use of an Ohm in sport top-rope settings with some positive results!
I noticed in the video she is walking her hands up. Today I took my belay class and then told me not to use that method and instead slide your climb hand underneath the brake hand up. Never taking your break hand off the rope?
Hi Sean, Thanks for watching. Both methods are safe. As long as there is always a good tight grip from one hand on the dead rope, it doesn't matter which method you use to move your hand back up the rope.
Nice, simple advice 👍 Most people usually quote the “V, to the knee, 1 2 3” mantra to beginners however I tend to find that the people I’ve helped learn to belay perform the steps so slowly and rigidly that when when they do the V, they keep the rope up and parallel for waaay to long so I’m glad you’ve mentioned how important it is the get that hand back down ASAP. I now tell people “pull and arch down, 1 2 3”. This way they’re making more of a smooth upward and then downward arch. It’s seems to have worked for everyone so far 😊
Thank you-yes, we’ve found the same thing with the ‘V’ part of the mantra, and have sometimes used numbers to help novices keep a rhythm in the early stages of learning.
Climbing Nomads Sorry yeah the “1 2 3” part is to do with the hand swapping... 1 - bring the left hand down to the dead end just below the belay device... 2 - slide the right up to meet it... 3 - return the left to the live end aaaaand repeat 😀
I also prefer people do the slide up thing rather than place above the left as sliding up means there’s at least a fist width between the hand and the belay device so the chances of the hand getting sucked into the device when a climber falls is much less. I’ve had this happen to me and it hurts a lot and of course instinct is to let go which can end very badly 😣
This is the best belaying tutorial on RUclips. Thank you for taking the time to explain it carefully and slowly!
Thank you Jarasta, glad we could help 👍
@@TheClimbingNomads I had my first top rope belaying lesson this week, no one was dropped or whipped or short ropped. Id like to think this video helped towards that. Thank you.
Learning lead belay this coming week so I will be rewatching your lead belay video :D
What about the very beginning where the instructor lets go of the rope with both hands...? By far the best...lmfao
I teach hand over hand when Lowering a climber less chance of slipping and trapping of hand 👍 good vid 👍😀🐾
This is by far the best belay video on RUclips. Thank you!
Aw, thank you! 👍
There's an interesting point at 4:47 "Free Running Ropes". Some centres recommend adding a twist to increase friction when there's a weight difference between climber and belayer, and the belayer needs some extra support. As an alternative to using a ground anchor or ballast bag. The bonus here is that the belayer is free to move around still; though as you say there's increased wear on the ropes.
I would always try and avoid ropes rubbing against each other and would personally not encourage new climbers into this practice. I can see the benefit of adding some extra friction whilst allowing the belayer to still move around but would worry about the extra wear on the ropes and beginners thinking that ropes running over each other is not a problem in other situations. If a belayer is used to using the rope twist system it could also make it harder when learning to belay a lead climber.
@@TheClimbingNomads I'm fully behind you here - I've always been brought up avoiding rubbing ropes where possible and I always pass this on to my own students. I'm currently exploring the use of an Ohm in sport top-rope settings with some positive results!
Edelrid has a tool for this. You clip it to first bolt, and it creates a drag to avoid pulling lighter belayer into the wall
Yep - we love our Ohm, use it all the time on sport and indoor routes when Soph’s belaying 👍
I noticed in the video she is walking her hands up. Today I took my belay class and then told me not to use that method and instead slide your climb hand underneath the brake hand up. Never taking your break hand off the rope?
Hi Sean, Thanks for watching.
Both methods are safe. As long as there is always a good tight grip from one hand on the dead rope, it doesn't matter which method you use to move your hand back up the rope.
Can you make a video using grigri device
Thanks for your suggestion Ahmad will add it to the list of videos to make 👍
I don't see the point of pulling in rope on the climber's side. Why not just teach people to keep both hands on the brake side?