This video finally helped me understand the mechanics of these shots. I went to the range and started hitting draws and fades. Had a hard time with low and high but will practice more. Thank guys!!
Just picture changing the loft of the club by tilting the club shaft when you strike the ball so that it raises or lowers the loft/angle of the club, therefore changing the loft of the shot. If you know your avg shot distance it’s safer to just pick a controlled loft of a different club and hit it softer over pitching your club up or down to hit a high/low. I reserve those shots for wind and practice at a range that gets a lot of natural wind. Those shots allow you to get under the wind if you’re not going to use it. A lot of pros use that wind though when it’s blowing at then or behind them it can assist in different shots. The high shots are best taken care of with your PW-LW unless you’re looking to use the wind in your favor, thats when I see player pitch a club most. On loft shots say 8I - PW/LW, best to squat a bit with toes out like a samurai so the hips can move freely when your hitting a higher angle shot, say making a 9I a PW or somewhere around there basically, but some clubs that can be a hassle if you’re not used to it cuz of the awkward way you gotta make contact with the ball. Its best to let the physics of the clubs do its job, its consistent if you’re consistent, pros know their stats and use them to win. Maths wise it’s best to fall in love with your 3,4,6, and 8 Iron and know your avg shot distance. If you’re doing good with your draws and fades maybe best to really drive it into muscle memory first. Then tinker with the high-low once you’re consistently hitting em correctly cuz the stances and angle of attack that every club is designed for changes.
I have always struggled with a slice. It wasn't until I learned these concepts that I figured out how to control my slice. In the past, when I had a bad slice off the tee, I would try and aim more left to counter it or I would close my clubface some. I didn't realize that was causing me to slice even more. I makes so much sense now that I have a basic understanding of the ball flight laws. Now I can at least to attempt to fix bad shots instead of making them worse.
Just one small comment. Could you please show us your intended target. You speak of line in regard to stance, swing etc but I see a lot of flags in the distance have no idea as to what your target is. With that said I still enjoyed your video.
Thank you. The last time I golfed it was in about 2000 or so. Never had lessons and shot in the 90s. I could never hit a draw or fade. Now 20 years later after watching this video and 4 big buckets (on different days) I can hit a draw. Next I will try a fade. Incredible value here!
Impressive demonstration! Thanks for keeping it simple on the setups so one can actually comprehend it and then practice, practice, practice. Great job!! Thanks!!
Drive is on the right, approach to green blocked by trees on the right. Me: "My shot always goes left to right. If I aim left of the trees, the ball will carve to the right towards the green." Ball goes dead straight, into the woods! 😬
Very detailed and concised to understand. This is the first time l understood about the concepts. Other coaches may have had touched on them, but confusing to understand. Thank you.
This is the topic that I need to invest time in. Loved the visuals and explanation of what a draw/fade/high/low etc. Really helpful to get going on this topic.
Mark, my brother and i have had a similar discussion. Distance, whether it be off the Tee or from the fairway, is surely the biggest divide in amateur golfers. That being said, i can play with someone who hits it loads further, but can`t chip or putt so i stay very competitive or even beat them. Chipping and putting are the 2 skills that equalise us because being longer has nothing to do with it. So while i agree all shots need to be practised, short game is where you will gain the most strokes if you are proficient. Thanks for all the great content, keep up the great vlogs.
Great vid for me to see. Been working on dialing-in these shots for about 2 years. Batting about 0.500. The tricky part is to plan for the possibility that a fade or a draw attempt might actually go straight and still end up with a bogey. A double cross (plan a fade and then hook it) will usually end up with a double bogey. Went to Champion's Gate in late 2016 for a three-day intensive lesson with Mike which was great. If you see him tell him Ricardo says hey.
Good job Andy! I'm working on these myself at the moment. One thing I try and do that seems to help me is I literally pretend there is a massive tree trunk about 20 yards in front of me and I just do whatever is necessary to get around it the way I want to. You have to be able to use your imagination and visualize it. If you've played golf quite a bit, your body will do all the necessary things to make the particular swing happen...usually.
Took this video into the range. I Walked out two hours later with a few extra shots in my locker. Not perfect but plenty practice I might be able to execute them. Thanks
Awesome video. I've been trying to wrap my head around how to execute a draw vs. a fade, and I understand it a lot better now. I seem to either hook or draw my shots every time, so now I feel better about fixing that.
Great video. Have made much progress on the draw and will actually resort to a draw when I am struggling or need a bit more distance. This video should help me master the fade better. I would love to hear some tips on how to control the angles better depending on how much draw I need. That’s still a bit of a guessing game.
Great lesson. Thanks. One question - Club face points to target whether playing a draw or a fade but shoulders/hips/feet is aligned right (0r left) accordingly. Are the shoulders/hips/feet parallel to the new ball/target line?
How then is tbe ball position and shaft lean established? Relative to the new ( paraleel right ) shoulder/hips/feet line ? If so do I need to re-grip seeing that club head still points to target?
Thank you! I’ve also just watched your great video on “golf tip - how to aim correctly” for a straight shot (Apr 2014) Wondered how it would differ for a fade or draw? Would you similarly stand behind the ball and set the club face first, then work on the angle you want for the feet second?
I actually had one of my best shots with my 7 the other day. I was about 140 yards to the pin and was sitting in and under trees. I had 2 options bump and run back to fairway or play aggressive and hit low and try and reach green. I chose to hit low and I actually reached and had a birdie chance. Wouldn't of been able to do that if I hadn't practiced that shot before. Didn't get the birdie but I did make par and saved the hole after a terrible drive.
That was amazing, I assume you didn't edit the shots to get what you showed; ) Sometimes your pros set up for a draw or fade then hit it straight. Well done.
With the fade and draw shots, are you moving the ball back or forward pretty noticeably? And for the low shots, how or what can I do to hold the club off to keep the ball low?
Thank you! I had never tried to deliberately shape a shot before but I managed the 'low' and the 'high'! A bit more practice needed to see the 'draw' and 'fade' - I'll keep watching and experimenting though!
It is surprising how close and Infront of the ball he is standing. Very confident that he wouldn't be hit by a shank. I would always avoid that situation. By the way great tips.
Hi Guys, I’m a bit confused. In either of the draw or fade Andy mentions his face is pointing to the target whilst he explains his shot. Earlier in the video, and using the draw for a right handed golfer as the example, there is mention of the face pointing between an imaginary line right of the target and the target line. I’m assuming Andy can point to the target line as his swing is that of a professional golfer. After setting the body up to the line right of the target and ensuring a swing path toward that same line, is the advice to tilt the toe over to an area b/w the target and the line right of the target so that us amateurs get that hook spin on the ball to promote the draw and therefore prevent and even worse slice?
Great video guys. It's a drill I used to do, but had completely forgotten about it!!! Quick question, would you recommend a specific club to use when doing this drill?
This is useful and I was taught it at an early age, but the difficulty for lower handicappers is the low fade and the high draw. Personally for me, the high draw is difficult, but the amount of practice for it is very low.
Don't you change the loft by changing the iron? Great video by the way, just need to understand why changing the dynamic loft for a given iron is different/ beneficial to changing the club.
Its distance, yes you change loft by club but you add distance. For example if you need to go 130yards in wind that's a P you need to deloft to get it there through the wind by keeping it low, if you hit a lower iron that is delofted it would go past the green.
Most driving ranges Ive tried charge like $6 small bucket or $12 large bucket. I feel like I can hit a large bucket in 20 minutes and barley get warmed up. Any tips or ideas on how to get more bang for my buck at driving ranges? I can play 9 holes for $12. So a large bucket for $12 seems like a rip off... any ideas are welcome if serious. Ty
You say that the club face bisects the club path and the target line when you're talking about the setup early in the video and then put the face on the target line when you're doing the drill. Is there one way that you prefer over the other?
The question I always have is am I releasing the club regardless of shot shape. When I try to hit a fade I always feel like if I don’t fight the club open I’m going to hit starting left moving lefr
When hitting a low shot, you say to move the ball back in your stance. When I move the ball back, I start blocking it out to the right. In a place with high winds every day, I have been practicing the low shot a lot, but i cannot keep it on target line. Any tips?
Think of a normal set up, then dropping your left foot back a bit... now line your shoulders (body) up with your feet position. You are now lined up to the left of your original stance/target. The opposite is true for aiming to the right. Assume a normal set up to the target line and drop your right foot back. Line your shoulders up with your feet position and you are now lined up to the right of your target. And yes, these draw/fade techniques would work for every club, including driver. Hope this helps.
I can see why you would want to shape a shot left or right. Can you help me understand why you would want to flight it high or low by changing the dynamic loft, instead of just grabbing a club with more or less loft?
Ryan C no, you could cut down the loft of a seven iron to get it low and around trees and still take a full swing instead up trying to hook half a 4 iron
With aiming the club face, do you regrip the club to keep the club on line when you are aimed "off-line" with your body or is the grip always neutral? I find it difficult to fade the ball with just a body adjustment without gripping the club weaker as well. What is your thoughts there.
Every right handed golfer can hit the ball left to right. But controlling it and being able to work it right to left allows you to take advantage of almost any golf course
Not necessarily Samuel. Although moving the ball position does affect path, it also affect the face too. The more the ball is forward, the more the face will point left and vice versa. if you change the ball position then you would have to change the face also. Hope that helps?
I’m A Fader, Yesterday I Was Lucky A Watched This Video, There Was A Tree Infront Of Me And The Green Was On The Line Of The Tree So, I Hit A Draw And It Ended Up Short
I have all those shots in my bag... Problem is, don't know which one is coming😂
Hahah, so true - I have them too :D
A good one:)
TheDCFDgaloot virtual high five to you.
Me too man!
Amen brother
This video finally helped me understand the mechanics of these shots. I went to the range and started hitting draws and fades. Had a hard time with low and high but will practice more. Thank guys!!
Just picture changing the loft of the club by tilting the club shaft when you strike the ball so that it raises or lowers the loft/angle of the club, therefore changing the loft of the shot. If you know your avg shot distance it’s safer to just pick a controlled loft of a different club and hit it softer over pitching your club up or down to hit a high/low. I reserve those shots for wind and practice at a range that gets a lot of natural wind. Those shots allow you to get under the wind if you’re not going to use it. A lot of pros use that wind though when it’s blowing at then or behind them it can assist in different shots. The high shots are best taken care of with your PW-LW unless you’re looking to use the wind in your favor, thats when I see player pitch a club most. On loft shots say 8I - PW/LW, best to squat a bit with toes out like a samurai so the hips can move freely when your hitting a higher angle shot, say making a 9I a PW or somewhere around there basically, but some clubs that can be a hassle if you’re not used to it cuz of the awkward way you gotta make contact with the ball. Its best to let the physics of the clubs do its job, its consistent if you’re consistent, pros know their stats and use them to win.
Maths wise it’s best to fall in love with your 3,4,6, and 8 Iron and know your avg shot distance. If you’re doing good with your draws and fades maybe best to really drive it into muscle memory first. Then tinker with the high-low once you’re consistently hitting em correctly cuz the stances and angle of attack that every club is designed for changes.
I have always struggled with a slice. It wasn't until I learned these concepts that I figured out how to control my slice. In the past, when I had a bad slice off the tee, I would try and aim more left to counter it or I would close my clubface some. I didn't realize that was causing me to slice even more. I makes so much sense now that I have a basic understanding of the ball flight laws. Now I can at least to attempt to fix bad shots instead of making them worse.
Just one small comment. Could you please show us your intended target. You speak of line in regard to stance, swing etc but I see a lot of flags in the distance have no idea as to what your target is. With that said I still enjoyed your video.
Thank you. The last time I golfed it was in about 2000 or so. Never had lessons and shot in the 90s. I could never hit a draw or fade. Now 20 years later after watching this video and 4 big buckets (on different days) I can hit a draw. Next I will try a fade. Incredible value here!
Impressive demonstration! Thanks for keeping it simple on the setups so one can actually comprehend it and then practice, practice, practice. Great job!! Thanks!!
Somebody just left the range after hitting some quality draws! Actually meaning them too!
Great video!
Absolutely buzzing!! ⛳🤸
Great work Gregg!!
Drive is on the right, approach to green blocked by trees on the right.
Me: "My shot always goes left to right. If I aim left of the trees, the ball will carve to the right towards the green."
Ball goes dead straight, into the woods! 😬
Jeff White me literally every shot 😂
Hit a iron or hybrid play for the approach shot
@@JesusFChrist666 layups are for basketball
I've done that
Very detailed and concised to understand. This is the first time l understood about the concepts. Other coaches may have had touched on them, but confusing to understand. Thank you.
I never thought of moving my body for the fade or draw. I always just tried to alter the swing path while staying planted. This is a game changer
Will definitely be practicing these, I can hit straight. I need to draw and fade to be complete.
Hope this helps Mario. Let us know how you get on.
Right
We're in Florida . . . (wearing 2 shirts, long sleeves and trousers!!)
This is the topic that I need to invest time in. Loved the visuals and explanation of what a draw/fade/high/low etc. Really helpful to get going on this topic.
It was the first lesson I did at my home club to explain how Draw and Fade actually produced)))
Mark, my brother and i have had a similar discussion. Distance, whether it be off the Tee or from the fairway, is surely the biggest divide in amateur golfers. That being said, i can play with someone who hits it loads further, but can`t chip or putt so i stay very competitive or even beat them. Chipping and putting are the 2 skills that equalise us because being longer has nothing to do with it. So while i agree all shots need to be practised, short game is where you will gain the most strokes if you are proficient. Thanks for all the great content, keep up the great vlogs.
Great vid for me to see. Been working on dialing-in these shots for about 2 years. Batting about 0.500. The tricky part is to plan for the possibility that a fade or a draw attempt might actually go straight and still end up with a bogey. A double cross (plan a fade and then hook it) will usually end up with a double bogey. Went to Champion's Gate in late 2016 for a three-day intensive lesson with Mike which was great. If you see him tell him Ricardo says hey.
Good job Andy! I'm working on these myself at the moment. One thing I try and do that seems to help me is I literally pretend there is a massive tree trunk about 20 yards in front of me and I just do whatever is necessary to get around it the way I want to. You have to be able to use your imagination and visualize it. If you've played golf quite a bit, your body will do all the necessary things to make the particular swing happen...usually.
perfect timing!!! I was at the range last weekend trying to hit a low fade. Thanks for the video!!
Hope this helps. Please let us know.
Wow golf lessons have changed a lot since I last got one. It used to be an overweight pro punching a dart telling you not to fk it up
Great video, guys. Super helpful and easy explanations.
Took this video into the range. I Walked out two hours later with a few extra shots in my locker. Not perfect but plenty practice I might be able to execute them. Thanks
Spot on Mark! Mark Broadies book (Every shot counts) is an excellent read for those who wants to know more on this subject
Very nice. Thanks for the video. What do you do differently for the driver for the same low/high fade/draw?
Awesome video. I've been trying to wrap my head around how to execute a draw vs. a fade, and I understand it a lot better now. I seem to either hook or draw my shots every time, so now I feel better about fixing that.
Very clear instruction, thank you.
"What is twist face tech?"
"Well, you see, It's a 400 dollar Pringle's potato crisp"
I've subscribed to the podcast. Looking forward to it.
Great instructions. These guys definitely have the European shine on!
Great vid! Glad I found it. Such clear explanations, I can't wait to try these shots.
Great video. Have made much progress on the draw and will actually resort to a draw when I am struggling or need a bit more distance. This video should help me master the fade better. I would love to hear some tips on how to control the angles better depending on how much draw I need. That’s still a bit of a guessing game.
Is the direction the clubface is pointing controlled by grip or are these shots all achieved/achievable with a neutral grip?
Thank you 🙏
Impressive- Best golf video! Lots of good info!
Great lesson. Thanks. One question - Club face points to target whether playing a draw or a fade but shoulders/hips/feet is aligned right (0r left) accordingly. Are the shoulders/hips/feet parallel to the new ball/target line?
How then is tbe ball position and shaft lean established? Relative to the new ( paraleel right ) shoulder/hips/feet line ? If so do I need to re-grip seeing that club head still points to target?
Thank you! I’ve also just watched your great video on “golf tip - how to aim correctly” for a straight shot (Apr 2014)
Wondered how it would differ for a fade or draw?
Would you similarly stand behind the ball and set the club face first, then work on the angle you want for the feet second?
I actually had one of my best shots with my 7 the other day. I was about 140 yards to the pin and was sitting in and under trees. I had 2 options bump and run back to fairway or play aggressive and hit low and try and reach green. I chose to hit low and I actually reached and had a birdie chance. Wouldn't of been able to do that if I hadn't practiced that shot before. Didn't get the birdie but I did make par and saved the hole after a terrible drive.
Thanks for another great video! What club are you using? Not sure how high the ball should get with each of my clubs.
That was amazing, I assume you didn't edit the shots to get what you showed; ) Sometimes your pros set up for a draw or fade then hit it straight. Well done.
Awesome video!! Thanks guys. Can't wait to get to the driving range to have a go.
Love the video guys will definitely add this to my range work. Keep em coming
In Oklahoma we don't need a fade or or draw. Just depends on which way the wind is blowing. 50/50 chance it will blow it toward the pin.
We're at the range in tee shirts, too, just have to dodge the last of the snow patches at 35 degrees. Nice lesson, gents, and great ball striking.
With the fade and draw shots, are you moving the ball back or forward pretty noticeably? And for the low shots, how or what can I do to hold the club off to keep the ball low?
Besides body alignment what do you do to get your path going 9 degrees to the right?
I'm going to give this a go today although I'm sure it won't be as easy as Andy made it look! Cracking video!
Thanks Michael. Hope it helps. Please let us know how you get on.
Thank you! I had never tried to deliberately shape a shot before but I managed the 'low' and the 'high'! A bit more practice needed to see the 'draw' and 'fade' - I'll keep watching and experimenting though!
It is surprising how close and Infront of the ball he is standing. Very confident that he wouldn't be hit by a shank. I would always avoid that situation. By the way great tips.
Hi Guys, a big fan here. Can you guys cover wedges also? the distinction between each club and how to be better at it
Hi Ian. Thanks for the support. Yes will look at doing some wedge content. We do have lots on our website too if you check it out.
I'm the most confident doing the high straight shot
Love the unison in the rig...
What sort of distance loss (or gain?) would one expect with the low and high shots?
Can someone explain which program do you need to draw that red line following the ball?
Loving your work.... These Vid's are great easily followed, great work
When you play a fade/draw do you A) open/close the face then re-grip the club, or B) grip club normally, then open/close the face? THANKS!
Harvey penick said if dont open or close then take ur grip u didn't change anything. U must open face then grip. Same for draw
Good question. Be great to heart their perspective
Brilliant, thanks
hi guys ,informative and gr8 vid as usual,was wondering if you could do a video analysis of my iron swing
One question for these shots are you assuming an in to out swing path and not the atypical over the top shot?
Hi Guys, I’m a bit confused. In either of the draw or fade Andy mentions his face is pointing to the target whilst he explains his shot. Earlier in the video, and using the draw for a right handed golfer as the example, there is mention of the face pointing between an imaginary line right of the target and the target line. I’m assuming Andy can point to the target line as his swing is that of a professional golfer. After setting the body up to the line right of the target and ensuring a swing path toward that same line, is the advice to tilt the toe over to an area b/w the target and the line right of the target so that us amateurs get that hook spin on the ball to promote the draw and therefore prevent and even worse slice?
You guys are awesome. Thanks!
What are using for shot tracking and to produce all the ball flight numbers?
Great video, great explanation of the shots I just hope I can do it
Can't wait to try this out at the range!
Hope it helps.
I remember Johnny Miller doing this drill... it’s so hard...but so good.
It is a tough one but a great one to create some awareness of where you are and to test your skills.
The most camp looking golf coaches ever
Remind me from alan from two and a half men
Great video guys. It's a drill I used to do, but had completely forgotten about it!!! Quick question, would you recommend a specific club to use when doing this drill?
What ever you like and you feel will use a lot at your club. A 6 iron is a good place to start.
This is useful and I was taught it at an early age, but the difficulty for lower handicappers is the low fade and the high draw. Personally for me, the high draw is difficult, but the amount of practice for it is very low.
for hi and low shots, whats the difference with just using an iron with a different loft? ty
skobichevskii distance control. Manipulating the dynamic loft...the loft presented at impact...is the best way to change ball flights.
You may need to manipulate the loft to get the distance or to suit conditions such as wind.
Don't you change the loft by changing the iron? Great video by the way, just need to understand why changing the dynamic loft for a given iron is different/ beneficial to changing the club.
ability
Its distance, yes you change loft by club but you add distance. For example if you need to go 130yards in wind that's a P you need to deloft to get it there through the wind by keeping it low, if you hit a lower iron that is delofted it would go past the green.
Most driving ranges Ive tried charge like $6 small bucket or $12 large bucket. I feel like I can hit a large bucket in 20 minutes and barley get warmed up. Any tips or ideas on how to get more bang for my buck at driving ranges? I can play 9 holes for $12. So a large bucket for $12 seems like a rip off... any ideas are welcome if serious. Ty
Great content, thank you guys!
I bend it natural R to L........! The tendancy when trying to draw it is " snappy little hook".....up to 15yds left of target
What club would be most appropriate to initially learn and practice these shots? 7?
You say that the club face bisects the club path and the target line when you're talking about the setup early in the video and then put the face on the target line when you're doing the drill. Is there one way that you prefer over the other?
Seems from what you illustrating.....club face is never closed or open in relation to target line. Just swing path and stance is altered accordingly?
The ball will start where the club face is aimed given solid contact, so you shouldn’t point it at the target when shaping shots fyi
Yeah nice vid Lads 🤗 will be giving that a go next time Down at the range
The question I always have is am I releasing the club regardless of shot shape. When I try to hit a fade I always feel like if I don’t fight the club open I’m going to hit starting left moving lefr
Well the range is closed so I've been forced to practice on the course. Wonder if you got to go to florida this year
Why do I have to change my swing path instead of changing the clubface position?
When hitting a low shot, you say to move the ball back in your stance. When I move the ball back, I start blocking it out to the right. In a place with high winds every day, I have been practicing the low shot a lot, but i cannot keep it on target line. Any tips?
What kind of club he is using.
great video guys ;)
which club did you use ?
Love this one!!!
How much does shape and loft affect distance?
Very nice video
Whats the best club to practice this drill with?
At 3:51 you said that the club face is a little bit open, but at 7:02 you said that the club face stays on target line. I'm confused...
I had a natural low fade, then I had two strokes and now I have a hook.
what application are you using to check the numbers?
What club are you using ?
Which line do you set up to? Target line starting line or body line?
Harold Pohoresky They all come into play, but your target line is generally where your shot should follow
Good control!
What exactly do you mean by aiming your body left and is it the same when trying to hit a fade or draw with your driver
Think of a normal set up, then dropping your left foot back a bit... now line your shoulders (body) up with your feet position. You are now lined up to the left of your original stance/target.
The opposite is true for aiming to the right. Assume a normal set up to the target line and drop your right foot back. Line your shoulders up with your feet position and you are now lined up to the right of your target.
And yes, these draw/fade techniques would work for every club, including driver.
Hope this helps.
I love trying to shape the ball with my irons....Driver not so much as the results can be embarrassing...
I can see why you would want to shape a shot left or right. Can you help me understand why you would want to flight it high or low by changing the dynamic loft, instead of just grabbing a club with more or less loft?
For example wouldn’t a 4i delivered at 21° loft go the same yardage as a 3i delivered at a 21° loft?
@@ryan.corbett_ no a 3 iron is longer which will create more speed which will hit the ball farther
Ryan C no, you could cut down the loft of a seven iron to get it low and around trees and still take a full swing instead up trying to hook half a 4 iron
With aiming the club face, do you regrip the club to keep the club on line when you are aimed "off-line" with your body or is the grip always neutral? I find it difficult to fade the ball with just a body adjustment without gripping the club weaker as well. What is your thoughts there.
I have the same question!!
Every right handed golfer can hit the ball left to right. But controlling it and being able to work it right to left allows you to take advantage of almost any golf course
What kind of pants are those? Can you share a link?
Please make a video on low fade and low draw too.
Would ball position make it any easier? Such as further forward for a fade and slightly back for a draw?
Not necessarily Samuel. Although moving the ball position does affect path, it also affect the face too. The more the ball is forward, the more the face will point left and vice versa. if you change the ball position then you would have to change the face also. Hope that helps?
Meandmygolf thank you for the clarification. Hear alot of different theories and methods on how to produce these shots. Thank you
All of my shots are already either drawn or faded.
Driving?
I am new to golf. What is the purpose of a draw and a fade in a round of golf? Wouldn't a golfer just want to hit straight towards the green?
Most golf courses have obstacles strategically designed to make shots difficult. Such as sand traps, trees, water hazards and shit like that.
I’m A Fader, Yesterday I Was Lucky A Watched This Video, There Was A Tree Infront Of Me And The Green Was On The Line Of The Tree So, I Hit A Draw And It Ended Up Short
good video, one of your few actually useful and well-done ones but still