I just subscribed. This video was awesome, very thorough. I have a 1995 F150 Eddie Bauer that has become my project truck and I'm going to be tackling this along with the pinion seal. Thank you sir.
I've got some wetness on my drum that smells like gear lube... '88 F150 4X4, I think I need to replace my axle seals at the very least but why not throw in some new bearings while I'm in there given the age of the vehicle? Might be my project of the day so thanx for this vid! I believe Oreillys has the bearing tool for $55 which I can use and take it back -free tool rental- just so people know, just subscribed.
Is worth the rental! I live in a small town, my AutoZone lend them out to locals for free, but I bought a kit because I know how useful they are! Good luck let me know if you have questions! Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524 ouch! I just removed the center pin retaining bolt and it sheared about 1/4" from the head... not sure what to do next, probably jammed in there, I didn't even put that much torque to loosen it, used my 1/4" ratchet w 5/16" socket. Woah is me. Gonna start looking for a drill bit if I can even get it in there. ugh! Fix Or Repair Daily for me w this '88 lol.
ok, 8.8 differential cross pin bolt... apparently it is a common problem where they snap at about the first 2 or 3 threads of the bolt so it might not be a bad idea to just replace it every time it is removed and be careful torqueing it, I believe NAPA sells it for $3 although on ebay it's $11 delivered at the moment. Fortunately there are YT videos and tools to extract the bolt which is what I have to do now to remove the center pin and then continue fixing my leaking inner bearing seal as the brake shoes are completely soaked in gear lube on one side and then I have to consider new shoes but that's far from my mind at the moment lol. Good Luck everyone!
This has happened to me before also. Take a center punch, sharpen it and reach in and try to turn it with the point of the punch. If it moves just keep spinning it withe the punch. If it doesn’t move try to tap the punch with a hammer in the direction to loosen the cross bolt. Only then try the drill. I have always been lucky and it spun out with just a punch and a couple light taps with a hammer. Good luck!
@@heathputnam9524 Update: '88 F150 back on the road for now! I ended up doing what some videos say, I took the broken piece of the cross bolt that I had removed and put it in the little vice for my drill press and I drill an 1/8" plus hole thru the center as best I could then screwed it back in the hole and used a Dewalt 1/8" drill bit 12" long part number DW1602 ($6.47) from home Dpot using PB Blast for lubrication slowly drill a hole enough to get the ez out in there and got it out. Whew! Then it rained a lot but eventually I got back out there and kept going, I wire wheeled the cover plate and bolts and sprayed some VHT gloss black epoxy paint on it, let it dry, then installed like you did after using a telescopic magnet to clean out metal bits but I did end up waiting 24 hours for the RTV to cure just in case and then I filled it up w the 80w90 gear lube. The two smaller spider gears have major pits in them so that's on my mind, I'll check your vids about installing a posi in there, I think I can just get a kit to do that? The beat up spider gears gives me incentive to check that out at some point hopefully later than sooner. I replaced the shoes as the right side were soaked with gear lube, I need to search ebay to get some brake parts for the left side, a square spring and its metal holder thingy on the horizontal lever which were lost w the previous owner and the metal arm that fits into the wheel cylinder and pushes on the shoes is kinda broken maybe because of the missing other parts? anyway I have yet to replace them but I did replace the bearings and seals and that all went smoothly, much Thanx to your vid! Then I checked the front differential and ended up adding about a quart and a half, later I'll drain and redo the front diff seal as well but I have to learn about the front diff as well, maybe more seals and bearings to consider? and check the u-joints... the truck seems to drive better with the new gear oil and bearings but it is still a bit rumbly at higher speeds which I believe is the tires but I should double check the front end again, wheel bearing tightness, ball joints etc. I've already replaced most if not all the suspension rubber and body mounts and did use a lot of the polyurethane Energy suspension stuff which I'm not too impressed with, I think I like MOOG parts better, a better original feel etc. But I may get new tires tomorrow and that may change everything. My tires right now are pretty old and they have spent a lot of time sitting so there are probably flat spots creating the death wobble altho I did balance them but maybe there are issues w the drivetrain esp since I did drive it a bit being neglectful of the low amount of gear lube. I can't believe I never checked it! I've had this truck for 20 years although it spent most of its time sitting but it's so easy to check the diff fluid and I never did which I will blame on laziness and neglect lol so I'm not surprised I have pitted spider gears. Let this be a lesson to you owners of older vehicles, don't be lazy like I was, check your diff fluid!
What is the main reason for this project? I just got an 87 bronco and I will have to do some work and wondering how I would know if I need to do this. Thanks!
First look on the back of the brake plate where it meets the axle tube. Is there is any oil, grease or built up oil and dirt the seal is probably leaking. Then Jack up the rear tires and move the wheel and tire up and down if it moves at all the bearing is bad. The axle will move in and out which is normal but up and down is not. Thanks for watching!
Sorry for this kind of question but how much should I charge a person for this job, I was hoping some one in the comments had a mechanic quote that I could piggy off of. 🙏🏽
I did the bearings, seals, brakes and Spartan Locker install all at once and it took two days. Doing just the seals and bearings should only take about four hours if you have the right tools! Let me know how it goes! Thanks for the comment and for watching!
I'm waiting on the bearing tool to come in the mail and will be tackling this job this week. I will be referencing this video quite a bit lol
Thanks for watching! Let me know how it goes!
@@heathputnam9524 will do.
I really appreciate this video. I am about to do exsctly this today..
Thanks for watching! How did the job go?
Great video. I am about to install a Yukon limited slip unit, a new R&P gear kit, and all the bearings and seals. Your video was very informative.
Good luck! None of it is difficult, just take your time! The hard part is setting the contact between your new r&p gears! Thanks for watching!
Good job, you will have that Bronc trail ready soon.
Thanks for watching! I'm going to try to video every project I do on the Bronco! Let me know what I can do better. Thanks for the comment!
thank you so much for this video. You just saved me big time! 1993 Bronco
Happy to help!
Very good!
Thanks for watching!
Great video, really helped me out today
Happy to help! Thanks for the comment!
I just subscribed. This video was awesome, very thorough. I have a 1995 F150 Eddie Bauer that has become my project truck and I'm going to be tackling this along with the pinion seal. Thank you sir.
Good luck! Let me know how it goes! Thanks for watching!
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Nice video thanks!
Thanks for watching
I've got some wetness on my drum that smells like gear lube... '88 F150 4X4, I think I need to replace my axle seals at the very least but why not throw in some new bearings while I'm in there given the age of the vehicle? Might be my project of the day so thanx for this vid!
I believe Oreillys has the bearing tool for $55 which I can use and take it back -free tool rental- just so people know, just subscribed.
Is worth the rental! I live in a small town, my AutoZone lend them out to locals for free, but I bought a kit because I know how useful they are! Good luck let me know if you have questions! Thanks for the comment!
@@heathputnam9524 ouch! I just removed the center pin retaining bolt and it sheared about 1/4" from the head... not sure what to do next, probably jammed in there, I didn't even put that much torque to loosen it, used my 1/4" ratchet w 5/16" socket.
Woah is me. Gonna start looking for a drill bit if I can even get it in there. ugh! Fix Or Repair Daily for me w this '88 lol.
ok, 8.8 differential cross pin bolt... apparently it is a common problem where they snap at about the first 2 or 3 threads of the bolt so it might not be a bad idea to just replace it every time it is removed and be careful torqueing it, I believe NAPA sells it for $3 although on ebay it's $11 delivered at the moment. Fortunately there are YT videos and tools to extract the bolt which is what I have to do now to remove the center pin and then continue fixing my leaking inner bearing seal as the brake shoes are completely soaked in gear lube on one side and then I have to consider new shoes but that's far from my mind at the moment lol.
Good Luck everyone!
This has happened to me before also. Take a center punch, sharpen it and reach in and try to turn it with the point of the punch. If it moves just keep spinning it withe the punch. If it doesn’t move try to tap the punch with a hammer in the direction to loosen the cross bolt. Only then try the drill. I have always been lucky and it spun out with just a punch and a couple light taps with a hammer. Good luck!
@@heathputnam9524 Update: '88 F150 back on the road for now! I ended up doing what some videos say, I took the broken piece of the cross bolt that I had removed and put it in the little vice for my drill press and I drill an 1/8" plus hole thru the center as best I could then screwed it back in the hole and used a Dewalt 1/8" drill bit 12" long part number DW1602 ($6.47) from home Dpot using PB Blast for lubrication slowly drill a hole enough to get the ez out in there and got it out. Whew! Then it rained a lot but eventually I got back out there and kept going, I wire wheeled the cover plate and bolts and sprayed some VHT gloss black epoxy paint on it, let it dry, then installed like you did after using a telescopic magnet to clean out metal bits but I did end up waiting 24 hours for the RTV to cure just in case and then I filled it up w the 80w90 gear lube. The two smaller spider gears have major pits in them so that's on my mind, I'll check your vids about installing a posi in there, I think I can just get a kit to do that? The beat up spider gears gives me incentive to check that out at some point hopefully later than sooner. I replaced the shoes as the right side were soaked with gear lube, I need to search ebay to get some brake parts for the left side, a square spring and its metal holder thingy on the horizontal lever which were lost w the previous owner and the metal arm that fits into the wheel cylinder and pushes on the shoes is kinda broken maybe because of the missing other parts? anyway I have yet to replace them but I did replace the bearings and seals and that all went smoothly, much Thanx to your vid! Then I checked the front differential and ended up adding about a quart and a half, later I'll drain and redo the front diff seal as well but I have to learn about the front diff as well, maybe more seals and bearings to consider? and check the u-joints... the truck seems to drive better with the new gear oil and bearings but it is still a bit rumbly at higher speeds which I believe is the tires but I should double check the front end again, wheel bearing tightness, ball joints etc. I've already replaced most if not all the suspension rubber and body mounts and did use a lot of the polyurethane Energy suspension stuff which I'm not too impressed with, I think I like MOOG parts better, a better original feel etc. But I may get new tires tomorrow and that may change everything. My tires right now are pretty old and they have spent a lot of time sitting so there are probably flat spots creating the death wobble altho I did balance them but maybe there are issues w the drivetrain esp since I did drive it a bit being neglectful of the low amount of gear lube. I can't believe I never checked it! I've had this truck for 20 years although it spent most of its time sitting but it's so easy to check the diff fluid and I never did which I will blame on laziness and neglect lol so I'm not surprised I have pitted spider gears. Let this be a lesson to you owners of older vehicles, don't be lazy like I was, check your diff fluid!
What is the main reason for this project? I just got an 87 bronco and I will have to do some work and wondering how I would know if I need to do this. Thanks!
First look on the back of the brake plate where it meets the axle tube. Is there is any oil, grease or built up oil and dirt the seal is probably leaking. Then Jack up the rear tires and move the wheel and tire up and down if it moves at all the bearing is bad. The axle will move in and out which is normal but up and down is not. Thanks for watching!
Sorry for this kind of question but how much should I charge a person for this job, I was hoping some one in the comments had a mechanic quote that I could piggy off of. 🙏🏽
Good video. Have you have a seal to leak after replacing the axle seals?
The axle seals have a sealant on the outside already. It is normally orange or yellow and is sprayed on the part that presses in
are the bearings and seals good quality ? reviews say they both fail .are they full of shit? thanks, i think you are a honest person!!! let me know!
25k and still going! Thanks for watching!
Do you grease up the bearing at all? Since it’s getting lubed by gear oil I wouldn’t think right?
I do not add grease to a wheel bearing hooked to a differential. Thanks for watching!
Same for 1990 f150?
Yes! Thanks for watching!
94 F150 Rwd gonna be the same thing?
Yes the same! Thanks for watching!
How long did this whole process take you?
I did the bearings, seals, brakes and Spartan Locker install all at once and it took two days. Doing just the seals and bearings should only take about four hours if you have the right tools! Let me know how it goes! Thanks for the comment and for watching!
What is the new set up in the diff?
It is a Spartan Locker. I have a video showing the install. Thanks for watching!
Good vid man. Did your seal ever leak again?
No! So far so good! Thanks for watching!
My pleasure. Thanks for responding
he said no originally now there is no reply what's up with that?
Still has not leaked!
Where is the other video for the rear end?
The videos are all in the playlist! Thanks for watching!
I found it thank you!
So is it possible to do this with out removing the brake pads/springs?
Yea
You forgot to pack the bearing with high temp grease
Gear oil lubes the bearing