Hi, My 01 Ford Explorer Sport Trac has a strange clunking sound and you can feel it bad through the truck but only after you have been driving fast on the freeway for a while and then you slow down and exit for a fuel stop or stopping at a toll booth and you are moving very, very slowly, not turning at all, it is so bad everybody can hear it, but by the time you get fueled up and start to leave it has stopped making the noise again. There is no noise or vibrations at all on the freeway. Would this be symptoms of worn Spider Gears or clutch packs. Thanks.
My question is do i have to remove all rear break stuff? I think I have bent axle thats what my mechanic said after he installed new rear drums and shoes it still squeaks back there only from one side we even tried another drum because after going around block the drum would get extremely hot on one side not the other. Took us while back and forth to come to conclusion rear axle might be bent. I did have blow out at 80mph so its not surprising. Either way i think it is time for the bearings and seals to be serviced anyway. I wounder how hard it is to see with the eye if axle is bent? Thanks i doubt I can do this without a lift and not removing axle.
You could do this in the truck if needed and if you have drums you don’t need to remove anything other than the drum itself as far as brake parts are concerned. I actually had to do that later with the axle in this video because it also had a bent axle shaft. I had gotten the axle from a junk yard and didn’t know until I drove the truck afterwards that it was bent. So all of the shaft removal steps can definitely be done in the truck, I’ve done it with no lift and it’s not bad to do. Even the bearings shouldn’t be an issue either. Good luck!
@stuffyoucando2 what was your symptoms for bent axle shaft? Did it make your rear brakes squeak? For me it will only squeak at last few seconds of coming to complete stop . And at low speeds in traffic with no brake or gas on it will get slight hop coming from rear. But as long as you apply gas or break it is hardly noticable. On highway it does bunch of wierd stuff every bump feels 10times worst than it should i believe. I just want to make sure im putting money in right area. The axle shafts aint cheap i would definitely use new. My luck is like yours spend all day at junk yard just to get bent axle lol. Thanks man appreciate your time.
The brakes didn't really squeak, the main symptom was vibration, especially under braking but there was some vibration at any speed over about 35mph. What I did to diagnose it was put the rear on jack stands and run the truck at idle in gear and look at the wheels. I could visibly see wobbling when looking at the inside of the wheel as well as the inside edge of the drum. I think in your case I'd look for that and if you see it in the wheel, switch the sides for the wheels and see if it stays with the wheel or at the axle. If it stays with the wheel, then you have a bent wheel. Are you using the wheel that had the blowout?
@@johnwhite192 I have the same squeak on the passengers side but I was told it was the ABS and the ABS light is always on. But I also have some weird clunking going on in mine at very very low speed that nobody can give me any idea what it is.
@@stuffyoucando2 no that got junked my tire guy is pretty honest about that he wont mount it if it is bent. Walmart will mount tire on any condition rim and not say a thing. I know I need new rims well 3 i have 1 new. Mine feels real lumpy when im in traffic and not hitting the gas i feel the rear end hoping it feels like hopping might not be correct way to describe but kinda get idea. In the rear its really hard bounce over bumps at normal highway speeds i feel front end hit bump its smooth as it can be but when rear wheels hit the bump its like bang like i have stiff leaf springs which i don't they are original i believe. I put new bushings in leaf springs and hangers and brackets. I believe it is either bent axle or bad axle bearings or both. But its only on driver's side that im having issues. Also when shop did rear brakes i bought motorcraft drums and right away i felt it dragging really really bad took it back and drivers side drum was not far from being cherry red my guy told me its a bad drum he put napa drum on i didn't feel drag but it squeaks at last 5ft of a complete stop. I really don't think the drum i got was bent but idk im going to try the trick you said the shop did that to they had it up in air in drive and they said it looked good from naked eye i was there i didn't see anything but i might try that at home. Thanks
Can you do a video where a guy like me let the spider gears drop and now I’m in a jam. I have the gears out of the diff housing now but am Leary to pull it apart more…that weird S shaped piece between the 2 axle bearings is stressing me out
Unfortunately I can’t pull mine apart to do a video on that. I had this happen to me once before when changing out an axle shaft because I forgot to elevate both wheels and I rotated the elevated side with the pin removed and didn’t realize the spider gears were coming out as I was turning it and they fell out. In my case I put them back in by placing them in the positions they were in when they fell out and rotating the wheel back the opposite way and the side gears moved them back in. It was a pain and took a few tries but worked, but I’d probably recommend watching some of the differential overhaul videos and finding that point in the process, but it will most certainly require removing that S spring.
@@stuffyoucando2 Thank you for your reply....I eventually got the gears back in place. I have another rear diff to rebuild so I think I will make a video as there us nothing out there that speaks directly to this problem :)
I’ve had that a really long time and can’t seem to find the exact one, but the closest one to it is probably this: www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Flexible-Magnetic-Pickup-Tool/1003096204 Harbor freight also sells a similar one with a light.
Nice video. You didn't talk much about the axle surface itself unless I missed it. It's not uncommon for these axles to be trash when you pull them out just due to wear. Man I need to buy one of those seal pullers. Way easier than using a cold chisel.
@@limpit_drone6104 Thankfully most parts stores usually have them in stock or can get them quickly if you happen to need one. I wouldn't fret over it too much. I've pulled like 8 of these 8.8 axles over the years and have ran into two bad axles and then my son had a complete axle fail to the point where there was so much play in the axle it ate the seal and then flung gear oil all over the wheel.
I recommend going to a place like Rock Auto and entering in your vehicle information to figure it out. There are different variations of the 8.8” axle that require different seals, such as the 28 and 31 spline versions, which have different diameter shafts resulting in different part number seals.
@@shawnbrintonthose bearing / seal combos are sold to install after the car is had many miles on it because the original seal wears grooves into the axle, by installing the bearing / seal that you speak of allows the seal lip to ride in a different location on the Axel therefore finding a new unworn area of the axle so it will seal good.
Ok so, maybe you'll have an idea here, it appears I did everything correctly, but the brand new axle seal on my Crown Vic 8.8 is still dumping gear oil from the passenger side hub exactly as it was before
How does the axle itself look? If it has a groove worn around it where the seal rides, it’ll likely leak. There are a couple of options to fix it possibly. There may be repair sleeves available that will press onto the axle shaft, similar to ones offered for crankshaft main seal repairs. Otherwise, a new axle shaft will be needed.
Good video , straight forward , easy and clear , good job .
loving this build dude, got a 93 long bed 2.3 i may manual swap.
keep on!
Thanks!
Hi, My 01 Ford Explorer Sport Trac has a strange clunking sound and you can feel it bad through the truck but only after you have been driving fast on the freeway for a while and then you slow down and exit for a fuel stop or stopping at a toll booth and you are moving very, very slowly, not turning at all, it is so bad everybody can hear it, but by the time you get fueled up and start to leave it has stopped making the noise again. There is no noise or vibrations at all on the freeway. Would this be symptoms of worn Spider Gears or clutch packs. Thanks.
My question is do i have to remove all rear break stuff? I think I have bent axle thats what my mechanic said after he installed new rear drums and shoes it still squeaks back there only from one side we even tried another drum because after going around block the drum would get extremely hot on one side not the other. Took us while back and forth to come to conclusion rear axle might be bent. I did have blow out at 80mph so its not surprising. Either way i think it is time for the bearings and seals to be serviced anyway. I wounder how hard it is to see with the eye if axle is bent? Thanks i doubt I can do this without a lift and not removing axle.
You could do this in the truck if needed and if you have drums you don’t need to remove anything other than the drum itself as far as brake parts are concerned. I actually had to do that later with the axle in this video because it also had a bent axle shaft. I had gotten the axle from a junk yard and didn’t know until I drove the truck afterwards that it was bent. So all of the shaft removal steps can definitely be done in the truck, I’ve done it with no lift and it’s not bad to do. Even the bearings shouldn’t be an issue either. Good luck!
@stuffyoucando2 what was your symptoms for bent axle shaft? Did it make your rear brakes squeak? For me it will only squeak at last few seconds of coming to complete stop . And at low speeds in traffic with no brake or gas on it will get slight hop coming from rear. But as long as you apply gas or break it is hardly noticable. On highway it does bunch of wierd stuff every bump feels 10times worst than it should i believe. I just want to make sure im putting money in right area. The axle shafts aint cheap i would definitely use new. My luck is like yours spend all day at junk yard just to get bent axle lol. Thanks man appreciate your time.
The brakes didn't really squeak, the main symptom was vibration, especially under braking but there was some vibration at any speed over about 35mph. What I did to diagnose it was put the rear on jack stands and run the truck at idle in gear and look at the wheels. I could visibly see wobbling when looking at the inside of the wheel as well as the inside edge of the drum. I think in your case I'd look for that and if you see it in the wheel, switch the sides for the wheels and see if it stays with the wheel or at the axle. If it stays with the wheel, then you have a bent wheel. Are you using the wheel that had the blowout?
@@johnwhite192 I have the same squeak on the passengers side but I was told it was the ABS and the ABS light is always on. But I also have some weird clunking going on in mine at very very low speed that nobody can give me any idea what it is.
@@stuffyoucando2 no that got junked my tire guy is pretty honest about that he wont mount it if it is bent. Walmart will mount tire on any condition rim and not say a thing. I know I need new rims well 3 i have 1 new. Mine feels real lumpy when im in traffic and not hitting the gas i feel the rear end hoping it feels like hopping might not be correct way to describe but kinda get idea. In the rear its really hard bounce over bumps at normal highway speeds i feel front end hit bump its smooth as it can be but when rear wheels hit the bump its like bang like i have stiff leaf springs which i don't they are original i believe. I put new bushings in leaf springs and hangers and brackets. I believe it is either bent axle or bad axle bearings or both. But its only on driver's side that im having issues. Also when shop did rear brakes i bought motorcraft drums and right away i felt it dragging really really bad took it back and drivers side drum was not far from being cherry red my guy told me its a bad drum he put napa drum on i didn't feel drag but it squeaks at last 5ft of a complete stop. I really don't think the drum i got was bent but idk im going to try the trick you said the shop did that to they had it up in air in drive and they said it looked good from naked eye i was there i didn't see anything but i might try that at home. Thanks
Can you do a video where a guy like me let the spider gears drop and now I’m in a jam. I have the gears out of the diff housing now but am Leary to pull it apart more…that weird S shaped piece between the 2 axle bearings is stressing me out
Unfortunately I can’t pull mine apart to do a video on that. I had this happen to me once before when changing out an axle shaft because I forgot to elevate both wheels and I rotated the elevated side with the pin removed and didn’t realize the spider gears were coming out as I was turning it and they fell out. In my case I put them back in by placing them in the positions they were in when they fell out and rotating the wheel back the opposite way and the side gears moved them back in. It was a pain and took a few tries but worked, but I’d probably recommend watching some of the differential overhaul videos and finding that point in the process, but it will most certainly require removing that S spring.
@@stuffyoucando2 Thank you for your reply....I eventually got the gears back in place. I have another rear diff to rebuild so I think I will make a video as there us nothing out there that speaks directly to this problem :)
Where’s that magnet tool from ?
I’ve had that a really long time and can’t seem to find the exact one, but the closest one to it is probably this: www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Flexible-Magnetic-Pickup-Tool/1003096204 Harbor freight also sells a similar one with a light.
Thanks
@@Vater1 no problem.
Nice video. You didn't talk much about the axle surface itself unless I missed it. It's not uncommon for these axles to be trash when you pull them out just due to wear. Man I need to buy one of those seal pullers. Way easier than using a cold chisel.
Shit thats not what i wanna read😭
@@limpit_drone6104 Thankfully most parts stores usually have them in stock or can get them quickly if you happen to need one. I wouldn't fret over it too much. I've pulled like 8 of these 8.8 axles over the years and have ran into two bad axles and then my son had a complete axle fail to the point where there was so much play in the axle it ate the seal and then flung gear oil all over the wheel.
@@PNW_Car_Mods oh man I’m hoping my issue’s just a diff cover gasket, id be so mad having to do a rebuild at 54k miles
I bought one works great
What was the till called that you used to reseat the bearing and seal?
You have a Pn for the seals
The seals can be different depending on what vehicle you have.
If I’m just replacing just the bearings and seals do I have to open the diff at all?
Yes, you still need to. The axle shafts can’t be pulled out unless the C clips are removed, which is done as shown here.
Yes
Hi I've wasted the whole day trying to find the seal for that specific axle by any chance donyou know the part number?
I recommend going to a place like Rock Auto and entering in your vehicle information to figure it out. There are different variations of the 8.8” axle that require different seals, such as the 28 and 31 spline versions, which have different diameter shafts resulting in different part number seals.
@@stuffyoucando2 thank you 🙏
The bearings i just pulled out of mine are one piece (seal and bearing) and driver side was different then passenger. 🤷♂️🤔
@@shawnbrintonthose bearing / seal combos are sold to install after the car is had many miles on it because the original seal wears grooves into the axle, by installing the bearing / seal that you speak of allows the seal lip to ride in a different location on the Axel therefore finding a new unworn area of the axle so it will seal good.
What size was the cross pin retainer bolt?
If I remember correctly you need an 8mm wrench to remove that bolt.
I didn't see no o-ring when removing or installing c clips
I’m sure with age they can deteriorate and go missing.
Ok so, maybe you'll have an idea here, it appears I did everything correctly, but the brand new axle seal on my Crown Vic 8.8 is still dumping gear oil from the passenger side hub exactly as it was before
How does the axle itself look? If it has a groove worn around it where the seal rides, it’ll likely leak. There are a couple of options to fix it possibly. There may be repair sleeves available that will press onto the axle shaft, similar to ones offered for crankshaft main seal repairs. Otherwise, a new axle shaft will be needed.
LMR also sells an extra wide bearing that changes where the seal lands on the axle shaft which may help.