2019 USA Climbing: Bouldering Open National Championships | Finals

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  • Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
  • 2019 Bouldering Open National Championships | Redmond, Oregon | February 1-2, 2019
    Website: www.usaclimbing...
    Facebook: / usaclimbing
    Twitter: / usaclimbing
    Instagram: / usaclimbing
    About USA Climbing:
    USA Climbing is recognized by the United States Olympic and Paralympic Committee as the National Governing Body for the sport of competition climbing. The organization manages the disciplines of Bouldering, Speed and Sport climbing as well as the Collegiate and Adaptive series. USA Climbing, a member federation of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), also hosts IFSC World Cup events and sends athletes to participate in the IFSC’s World Cup circuit and the World Climbing and Paraclimbing Championships.

Комментарии • 492

  • @ozapenguin
    @ozapenguin 5 лет назад +275

    W1: 9:51 W2: 34:55 W3: 50:40 W4: 1:15:14
    M1: 1:46:18 M2: 2:02:15 M3: 2:21:42 M4: 2:40:27

  • @Tzadeck
    @Tzadeck 5 лет назад +111

    They could really learn to pronounce Ashima Shiraishi's name. The guy in the stadium itself is doing it. The TV commentator woman just says 'Ashima' and the man says 'Shirishi.' She's literally the best climber in the states, guys.

  • @Old.Man.Of.The.Mountain
    @Old.Man.Of.The.Mountain 4 года назад +8

    Please stop nitpicking about the commentary. "Rock talk" is fine within the climbing community. But "vapid commentary" is essential for those viewers not familiar with the sport. And there will be a lot of such viewers at the Olympics. I, for one, am happy that ESPN is covering the sport and providing such well-produced videos. If the sport grows really well, both commentators and the non-climbing public will eventually get familiar with climbing jargon as well.

  • @ambz418
    @ambz418 5 лет назад +12

    i’m not in the climbing world and i’ve really enjoyed watching these comps. personally i don’t mind the male commentator as much because he does seem new to the sport, but i guess him not completely understanding the sport is helping other new watchers of the sport to better understand. it’s probably different for others that already understand the sport, but for me personally i don’t mind it.

    • @jarrenleow
      @jarrenleow 5 лет назад +1

      Finally. Thank you. You made this comment so the rest of us don't have to.

    • @paulasalazar2093
      @paulasalazar2093 3 года назад +1

      +

    • @jessemclaughlin9680
      @jessemclaughlin9680 3 года назад

      I don't agree. He barely explained anything besides the climbers statistics. He showed us he has no understanding of the sport other than the scoring system that I'm sure was explained to him the day before. You wouldn't have a commentator that is completely ignorant of football or soccer commentate on that sport. It's not within their abilities to actually contribute anything of value.

  • @jrblackify
    @jrblackify 5 лет назад +4

    So grateful to be told what each person's wingspan is, every time he/she climbs, over and over... even though it's on the screen

  • @promethean2904
    @promethean2904 4 года назад +13

    I love how they cheer for each other

  • @LoyaFrostwind
    @LoyaFrostwind 4 года назад +6

    Say what we will about the commentators, I'm just glad they're showing this. I just finished watching the combined invitational. These climbers are amazing! I want to start climbing now. I've never been a rock gym before.

  • @willierants5880
    @willierants5880 3 года назад +6

    This is far more exciting than I thought it might be. I mean I knew it would be interesting, but it exceeded my expectations. I pray these and all Olympic athletes get to compete in Tokyo in July.

  • @Gitrdundi92
    @Gitrdundi92 2 года назад

    🎉very much appreciated for your support in the last couple weeks of this pandemic with your support in this regard

  • @fabc9959
    @fabc9959 5 лет назад +57

    Welcome everyone to this match between Montreal and Boston tonight here in Centre Bell where everyone is excited. The B on Boston's shirt probably stands for Boston, and CH for Canadian Hockey for Montreal's team. Now these two teams each consist of a large amount of players, but as you will see here in a second only 6 players per team will be on the ice at a time.
    *Players enter the ice*
    The average height for a hockey player is 6 ft 1 and the average weight is 199.3 pounds.
    *Game starts*
    And the black thin cylinder gets dropped on that circle between two players! There is 19 minutes and 57 seconds left to the period. Now keep in mind that there is also 2 other periods after these two, where each team will be able to play with the black cylinder again for a chance to increase their score. There is now 19 minutes and 46 seconds left for a total of 59 and 46 seconds of play time for the whole game. Now 19 minutes and 41. The fist game of hockey was played around 1875 in Montreal.
    *Insane team play by Montreal ending in a goal*
    One of the team scored! That means that team's overall score for that period will be increased by a single unit. This score will not reset between the 2 other periods of 20 minutes I will still have to commentate. The score is now 1-0 in favor of Canadian Hockey. This means that if the other team wants to win, they will have to score at least 2 points, because 2 is higher than 1, which is the current score of the other team. This is only assuming the other team does not score again, and if so, to win a team will still need to have a higher score than the other team. Brandon Gallagher's height is 5 ft 9.

    • @aidan-131
      @aidan-131 4 года назад

      Fabrice Charbonneau wtf??

    • @geminixx2149
      @geminixx2149 4 года назад +3

      xPxnda They’re making fun of the male commentator (he knows something about hockey I think) but it’s quite obvious that he knows nothing about climbing, because he’s just stating the obvious (she’s made it to 15 and needs to get to 25 - everybody knows that). Whereas the female commentator definitely knows about climbing because she’s talking about skills, staying close to the wall, and foot work (I think she mentioned foot hooks). Sorry that was so long😂.

    • @oceanbreeze9248
      @oceanbreeze9248 4 года назад

      😂😂😂

  • @alessandralin8017
    @alessandralin8017 5 лет назад +386

    Does anybody else’s hands get sweaty while watching rock climbing?

  • @TurdFurgeson571
    @TurdFurgeson571 5 лет назад +270

    "The climber is at the 5. Next they will want to go for the 10. This will give him more points and put him in a better spot in terms of points. And as we can see, the climber extends his arm hoping to find a place to grab hold. If he can do that he will actually stay on the wall instead of falling. If he can't he will fall and he will have to start from the bottom."
    The kind of vapid commentary you can expect from ESPN nowadays apparently.

    • @n1ji_
      @n1ji_ 5 лет назад +14

      TurdFurgeson571 the commentary is garbage. Like someone else said, they should have an actual climber cast the comp.

    • @penguins0392
      @penguins0392 5 лет назад +3

      what's the time stamp on this moment?

    • @pistolen87
      @pistolen87 4 года назад +6

      That's the main commentators job. The analyst/color commentator give more insight. It's the same most sports. Get off your high horse.

    • @TurdFurgeson571
      @TurdFurgeson571 4 года назад +17

      @@pistolen87 You'll never hear a baseball commentator saying, "Now the guy on the mound will throw that ball he's holding. He's the thrower, or 'pitcher.'" That is akin to what this guy is doing. It's basement level.

    • @fuzzycounsellor9147
      @fuzzycounsellor9147 4 года назад +8

      USA is so dumbed down now a days, you have to expect this. Just watch the news they talk to you the same way.

  • @jacobdronski7455
    @jacobdronski7455 4 года назад +56

    Route tester: Falls on face
    Route planner dude: wow
    Route tester: Falls on face again
    Route planner dude: wow that was really cool
    1:44:30

    • @holly4554
      @holly4554 3 года назад +1

      I’m living for that moment 🤣

    • @ryan-fk4kn
      @ryan-fk4kn 2 года назад

      and then the first guy to try it gets it first go lmao

  • @lennisiale2720
    @lennisiale2720 5 лет назад +2

    meagan carried the commentary between the two and made it worth listening to. on the other hand, the male commentator well he was just there

  • @bronsonwalker8821
    @bronsonwalker8821 5 лет назад +23

    he really said "problem number 1 is first"

  • @andersonboy620
    @andersonboy620 5 лет назад +30

    Claire Buhrfeind at the last second OMG!!!!

  • @squall48180
    @squall48180 5 лет назад +530

    No offense to the ESPN commentator, but please replace him with a climber. There was zero synergy between the two commentators which lead to some very bland background noise. Climbing is NOT this boring.

    • @bradleygamble4866
      @bradleygamble4866 5 лет назад +7

      Thank you

    • @danashane
      @danashane 5 лет назад +3

      Ha ha. Yes, in fact, it is this boring. Basically the new NASCAR

    • @thebucketlist5061
      @thebucketlist5061 5 лет назад +4

      Fun to do. Stupid to watch. It's like watching paint dry

    • @neilkurowski4991
      @neilkurowski4991 5 лет назад +32

      danashane it’s super interesting if you understand what’s going on

    • @zesuper
      @zesuper 5 лет назад +6

      This is a perfect example of the climbing community vibe, starts criticism with “no offense” as oppose to spewing the typical internet commenters violent, hate filled rants. Love it. I am new to this sport but certainly felt the disconnect as well.

  • @MrMagicmethos
    @MrMagicmethos 5 лет назад +164

    I think I'll die if I hear another "Shirishi", please stop

  • @merickong1899
    @merickong1899 4 года назад +4

    Rooting for Ashima 💪🏻 Nailed it!!!👏 Strong finished!

  • @dannykumite
    @dannykumite 5 лет назад +10

    Women start 9:51
    Men start 1:46:18

  • @csommer4492
    @csommer4492 5 лет назад +7

    Thanks for the great commentary Megan!

  • @TrackpadProductions
    @TrackpadProductions 5 лет назад +59

    I watched the whole thing before I reads the comments, and hot damn. I'm glad there's a consensus here. Nothing more cringe inducing in a climbing comp than a commentator who knows nothing about climbing.

  • @ricletic4769
    @ricletic4769 5 лет назад +272

    I'm a climber myself, I like watching the IFSC Worldcups and also national Bouldering-Comps here in Germany. But sorry guys, honestly, this is the worst commentator I've ever seen. Counting each and every attempt? Telling which zone the climber will reach next? Stating the same facts for every contestant? Stating the most obvious? Every VoiceBot could do that. It must have been a real suffering for Meagan to hear this for 3 hours (as it was for me). Climbing is so much more than only wingspan or ape-index.
    Any potential commentator should listen to an IFSC Bouldering stream with Charlie Boscoe to get an understanding of what it means to comment on a Boulder Comp. Or just watch the Bloc Shop Open 2019 Stream from a week ago, these 2 guys are doing a very good job too, everytime I see them.

    • @DanielGallagherMusic
      @DanielGallagherMusic 5 лет назад +17

      To be fair I guess this was televised, and he was maybe trying to make it as understandable as possible for those just randomly tuning in? Just a guess, but even with that, you're right that the commentator doesn't offer anything worthwhile in the way of analysis. He even sounds like every (American) football commentator (in terms of annunciation and projection of voice, etc.), which is not a good thing in my mind. Like if a climber is in a slabby tenuous position, I don't want to hear John Madden. Basically, the whole thing seems to be very ESPN-ized, which, to me, sucks. Anyway, I didn't need such a stark contrast to appreciate Charlie Boscoe, but I guess I'll take it and appreciate him all the more.
      Also... as I commented elsewhere.... For f***'s sake learn how to pronounce the Shiraishi's name; it's not hard (and even if it is, it's your job, so put in the 30 seconds of effort...)

    • @SuperPinglin
      @SuperPinglin 5 лет назад +6

      Personally I think the problems are also not as good.

    • @bradleygamble4866
      @bradleygamble4866 5 лет назад

      Thank you

    • @raulsuarez5421
      @raulsuarez5421 5 лет назад +1

      lol...they toke him from the NFL.

    • @wurzlgaming
      @wurzlgaming 5 лет назад +2

      @@SuperPinglin looks like 7a to 7b . i think womens climbing in the USA has more to offer

  • @garconrouge9099
    @garconrouge9099 5 лет назад +169

    I think the clueless commentator was intentionally chosen because a significant percentage of people watching climbing in the Olympics will be just as clueless. So instead of two pros talking way over everyone who's not a climber's head, they threw in a newb so the pro had to explain things to him and in turn everyone else watching. Still annoying, but it makes sense.
    In my opinion they should have just gotten someone who was openly clueless and have the two converse about it, instead of a professional voice just trying to sound professional.
    He loved when he got the chance to say "flash" though. haha.

    • @granta.8775
      @granta.8775 4 года назад +9

      Yea I would agree with this assessment. You need someone to make new climbers or completely new viewers feel like they're not being beat down with technical jargon. Overall, though, he could certainly have been a bit more knowledgeable and still kept new people in the loop.

    • @GeoffreyHellington
      @GeoffreyHellington 4 года назад +3

      imagine having a 2020 olympics

    • @fructifer4502
      @fructifer4502 4 года назад +8

      I know nothing about climbing (not sure how I got here) and I appreciated the female commentator SO MUCH. She was pointing out details that would have gone over my head and I feel like I learned a lot. As for the male commentator... thanks but I can see for myself on the screen that her height is 5'8". Gonna go binge watch a bunch of other climbing competitions now, this is a cool sport!

    • @twifanly
      @twifanly 4 года назад +3

      In my opinion, two professional/experienced climbers can just as well explain what is going on to a newbie. If you’ve ever watched the IFSC competitions, they have commentator Charlie Boscoe and a local climber. The local climber brings the extreme detail and expertise, and Charlie brings the laymans terms and commentating awareness to explain moves in a way that newbie climbers and non-climbing watchers can understand. This banal and baseless ESPN commentator is way out of his league here.

    • @willierants5880
      @willierants5880 3 года назад

      I thought both announcers did very well.

  • @heloisechung
    @heloisechung 5 лет назад +136

    HELLO! I'm a MALE SPORTS ANNOUNCER! and this is my ANNOUNCER VOICE! I don't know CLIMBING terms or how to pronounce FAMOUS CLIMBER NAMES, but my false ENTHUSIASM is what ESPN thinks is what people WANT. Look at Margot GET TO THE TOP!

    • @WhatsY0UTUB3
      @WhatsY0UTUB3 5 лет назад +7

      wow i didn't know climbers were all such judgemental and sexist assholes

    • @SilverTheFlame
      @SilverTheFlame 5 лет назад +18

      WhatsY0UTUB3 No.. he was just a bad announcer. I think Heloise mentioned his gender to emphasize how he always said things that were really obvious and didn’t add anything to the commentary. We know you’re a male announcer, just like we know that you get 25 points if you get to the top hold. It’s funny that you comment on someone being sexist when you then procede to stereotype and name-call an entire group of athletes. Classy...

    • @WhatsY0UTUB3
      @WhatsY0UTUB3 5 лет назад +4

      @@SilverTheFlame I didnt know those things so that was helpful to me. And now you're saying that because he's a male he only says unhelpful and obvious things? Yes I am saying that about a group of athletes because look at the comments here. "It's not football" implying the football is below them? Judgy as fuck

    • @matthewbernobich9413
      @matthewbernobich9413 5 лет назад +6

      @@WhatsY0UTUB3 Megan was doing a fine enough job explaining what was going on, and added color to what was happening with expert knowledge. The other dude added virtually nothing

    • @alysilent3807
      @alysilent3807 5 лет назад +5

      @@WhatsY0UTUB3 he is a bad announcer cause he is a bad announcer, not cause he's a dude. there were two voices: one male one female. you say male so other people (that dont know their names) can understand who u are talking about.. use logic

  • @gearupaaron
    @gearupaaron 5 лет назад +422

    Boo, not a fan of ESPN commentator (I don't mean Megan). Too mainstream sport-sounding. This is not football, guys, c'mon. Bring back out climber commentators. Sad direction this is going.

    • @gisgier
      @gisgier 5 лет назад +12

      At least he can count the attempts... 🙈

    • @mrmoorash
      @mrmoorash 5 лет назад +13

      he was the captain obviuos with phrases like "this hold is straight over the top of his head" :) This awkward moment, when you don't know what to say commenting the sport you unfamiliar with :)

    • @karlaart6971
      @karlaart6971 5 лет назад +7

      The audience is for non-climbers that's why

    • @justinfoo
      @justinfoo 5 лет назад +7

      And mangling the names of the climbers...

    • @colin1079
      @colin1079 5 лет назад +8

      I don't know about you but personally I needed to be explained the concept of Ape Index at the beginning of every run...
      More seriously, I'm glad Megan was there to explain the significance of body positioning and where climbers were correcting their movement.

  • @Mr.GKJohnson
    @Mr.GKJohnson 4 года назад

    Hell Yah Alex Johnson!!! Your St.Paul VE crew loves you!!

  • @epincion
    @epincion 5 лет назад +133

    Good comp but as a non-American climber I'm so sad to find that it has been 'ESPN-ified'. I guess it was inevitable with the popularity of sport climbing soaring and the fact it is about to become an Olympic sport.
    Sean Woodland clearly is not and never has been a rock or sport climber and knows zilch about the history, stats, and nuances of the sport or the competitors, many of whom are well known world wide - all things that I would expect of commentators of the premier national competition in any sport. Utterly lame to have comments like 'and he has reached number 10 and is going for number 15' and clearly no clue as to who was climbing and their history as a climber or any discussion of the type of boulder and its expected technicalities - gained from having a knowledge of the sport and from talking through the problems with the route setters beforehand. Having a guest climber as a co-commentator did not help as she treated the the audience as if they know nothing.
    I looked him up and see that Sean is a big fan of hockey and wonder how he and ESPN would get on if they put a sport climber in front of the microphone for the Stanley Cup? Someone who knows nothing about the history, strengths, weaknesses, foibles of the NHL players? There would be a riot.
    Nothing against him as a person but Climbing magazine had right when they rated the ESPN Detailed Play-by-Play coverage of sport climbing by Sean Woodland and Sam Farber as Grade C+ at best (I wold give it a fail) and wondered whether ESPN could not find a freelancer who knows the sport and 'would better fit the role'? There must be lots of very good sport climbers in the US who would be interested in a career as an ESPN climbing commentator.
    ESPN should watch and listen to the commentary of a few of the IFSC World Cup Bouldering comps by people who know the sport and climbers like the back of their hand and have credibility.
    PS: why no brushers? Its unfair on those who climb problems later not to have had the holds brushed and to waste time brushing the holds themselves.

  • @R3l3ntl3sss
    @R3l3ntl3sss 5 лет назад +4

    Wow Sean is incredible

  • @heidichampaign392
    @heidichampaign392 4 года назад +1

    Both Ashrami and Alex had a fantastic and fascinating performance, while their height lead them to two extreme style.

  • @shoqed
    @shoqed 4 года назад +165

    I regret reading comments, now I'm focused on how terrible the commentator is.

    • @Murdog83
      @Murdog83 4 года назад +9

      The commentator is actually pretty good. Many of the commentors on this video understand neither TV colour commentary or the wider world of climbing competitions in general

    • @bananabot151
      @bananabot151 4 года назад +7

      Yeah the dude was adding enthusiasm and energy, while the lady was being more technical, seemed pretty okay to me

    • @Cyberdactyl
      @Cyberdactyl 4 года назад

      @@Murdog83 LOL, sure. "Zero Waistband" 20:29 The dude's a clown.

    • @jefferylafranchise7774
      @jefferylafranchise7774 3 года назад

      a few misteps and mistakes makes it difficult at times, but overall not bad I guess

    • @Tinr2d2
      @Tinr2d2 3 года назад

      @@Cyberdactyl wingspan not waistband

  • @EliasH-video
    @EliasH-video 5 лет назад +7

    This is the Verge PC building video of the climbing community. The commentating, while well intended, is hilarious

  • @gabeh7655
    @gabeh7655 3 года назад +1

    I see Meagan Martin at my home gym pretty frequently and now I have to ask her how she felt commentating with this top tier football dude from ESPN. I'll save the criticism but this was one of the hardest things to listen to in ages.

  • @alexbenjaminrosenthal3989
    @alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 5 лет назад +17

    The commentary is getting a lot of criticism, and it has its faults, but I think there's potential here. People who follow climbing enough to find this on youtube are annoyed by the mainstream sports style, but I'm hoping people just happening upon this when it was live who aren't climbers were drawn in by it. This isn't commentary for climbers, it's for ESPN watchers, and the more of them who get drawn into the climbing world the better. If it takes a more mainstream sport play by play over-explaining everything style commentary for that to happen, I'm all for it.

    • @ariedalleis7765
      @ariedalleis7765 5 лет назад +1

      Yeah, I got that sense too. Gotta start somewhere. Glad though that the IFSC commentary is there on other events.

    • @alysilent3807
      @alysilent3807 5 лет назад

      okay u changed my mind lol

  • @zAznInVaznz
    @zAznInVaznz 5 лет назад +11

    sean bailey is a monster

  • @robbie_bbx4381
    @robbie_bbx4381 4 года назад

    Instead of ragging on the guy ESPN chose who had no control over the event he was having to commentate can we appreciate the sheer athleticism and talent of the phenomenal athletes?

  • @DanielGallagherMusic
    @DanielGallagherMusic 5 лет назад +117

    For crying out loud, Ashima is one of the most prominent climbers of the day... learn how to pronounce her name already (it's not sharishi, and it's not hard to say shiraishi).

    • @synchronium24
      @synchronium24 5 лет назад

      "it's not hard to say shiraishi"
      Is it pronounced "sheer-uh-ee-she"?

    • @philaeew4866
      @philaeew4866 5 лет назад +10

      @@synchronium24 i guess both she-rye-she or sheer-uh-ee-she would both be fine, sharishi is just plain wrong.

    • @synchronium24
      @synchronium24 5 лет назад +2

      @@philaeew4866 Thanks. I watched a another climbing video from when Shiraishi was younger (only 13!) and the commentator used the she-rye-she pronunciation, so I'll go with that.

    • @qfksspecial7866
      @qfksspecial7866 5 лет назад

      @@synchronium24 Japanese text to speech says "she lie ee she" and I think it means white rock.

    • @Murdog83
      @Murdog83 4 года назад

      Careful about pronunciation comments. The entire climbing community (as in nearly every single person) mispronounced Ashima's first and last name for nearly a decade before we learned to say it just a few years ago. Also, I bet you can't properly pronounce the name Domen Scofic, and he is also an internationally famous climber. His name also gets mispronounced often.

  • @Fuzzira
    @Fuzzira 4 года назад +4

    Attempt for on problem !

  • @austencoldiron9739
    @austencoldiron9739 5 лет назад +5

    Why did I watch something for 3 hours that I know nothing about? It’s amazing how that somehow happened...

  • @luketambakis4216
    @luketambakis4216 4 года назад +3

    2:14:54 Zach Gala is a freak, he sat there figuring it out for so long. Strength to spare

  • @tarasemansky2137
    @tarasemansky2137 3 года назад +1

    I don’t even understand the logistics of that second Boulder for the men. It defies physics, gravity and logic. These ppl are so talented!

  • @bamkuet
    @bamkuet 5 лет назад +145

    Is there no volunteer in the us that could do the brushing?

    • @bradleygamble4866
      @bradleygamble4866 5 лет назад +1

      True

    • @TheXeeman
      @TheXeeman 5 лет назад +1

      no budget

    • @ccmills87
      @ccmills87 5 лет назад +2

      they brush during their time before they climb? does that hurt their score?

    • @salamandersaladman8483
      @salamandersaladman8483 5 лет назад +4

      if youve ever done a comp like this you would know how important it is to brush your own holds

    • @Jay369
      @Jay369 5 лет назад +10

      There would be a potential to blame the brusher(s) for a bad clean. This is fair

  • @tillben
    @tillben 5 лет назад +81

    Someone, please talk to this guy about climbing

    • @bradleygamble4866
      @bradleygamble4866 5 лет назад +2

      Thank you

    • @imperadesigns3436
      @imperadesigns3436 4 года назад +1

      I watched the whole thing before I reads the comments, and hot damn. I'm glad there's a consensus here. Nothing more cringe inducing in a climbing comp than a commentator who knows nothing about climbing.

  • @arwensdorf8311
    @arwensdorf8311 3 года назад +1

    Hey that’s Sean Woodland who commentates all the Crossfit stuff! He’s great on Crossfit videos. Interesting to see/hear him on bouldering of all things.

  • @astroguyco
    @astroguyco 4 года назад +1

    These girls are so strong and good with their balance, with some training and i think they can succeed in any sport

  • @eugycecchi1242
    @eugycecchi1242 5 лет назад

    Adoro i vostri video... Colplimenti a tutti coloro che ci dedicano tempo e bellissima megan e le atlete.

  • @taylorgalbraith488
    @taylorgalbraith488 5 лет назад +5

    ***Munches Cheeseburger and sips milkshake - clears throat***
    Watching this makes my arms sore.

    • @bananabot151
      @bananabot151 4 года назад

      Taylor Galbraith god damnit now I’m hungry

  • @themeatpopsicle
    @themeatpopsicle 5 лет назад +20

    that is definitely some ESPN music

  • @royalgeesey
    @royalgeesey 4 года назад

    As a climber I know how hard this is and just watching it is making my palms sweaty as fuuuuuuuck😂

  • @Carmen-mp5cp
    @Carmen-mp5cp 5 лет назад +23

    The male announcer is just saying all of the facts about the climbers that just pop up on the screen

  • @holly4554
    @holly4554 3 года назад +1

    I love Sienna. She radiates happiness and I love her energy!

  • @lawleight626
    @lawleight626 5 лет назад +1

    That jump on route 1 was a nice addition to this set . the audience and event Need to be silent respect their experience

  • @skotinkos
    @skotinkos 5 лет назад +2

    love it. great job!

  • @user-qn2og5lg7p
    @user-qn2og5lg7p 4 года назад

    So, lets figure out how far this will go with this youtube recommendation chain. I was impressed by the fact that seemingly there was 25k people who came from scythe lady video to the scythe festival one. From now on i am going to watch next 100 videos with this comment numerating my path.
    This is comment №27

  • @unfortunatedisgrace246
    @unfortunatedisgrace246 4 года назад

    ashima did a brilliant job. happy for her to have won!

  • @amsbeats841
    @amsbeats841 3 года назад +1

    1:44:30 *climber faceplants for the 10th time*
    Announcer: "That was really cool!" LOL

  • @adamhaas141
    @adamhaas141 5 лет назад +27

    Why not give the athletes 10 or 15 seconds to brush the holds BEFORE their time starts? It seems a little silly to watch their time tick away before they've even had a chance to approach the start holds. While it is tempting to suggest that someone else do the job for them, I guess I see how there could be some subtle transfer of beta from the brusher to the climber, even if unintentional.

    • @jarrenleow
      @jarrenleow 5 лет назад +1

      Well if they did that, then all climbers would just get a 4:10 clock instead of a 4:00 clock. It's still equal time for all, so what's the difference? You could just deduct the 10 seconds in your head and tell yourself that these climbers only have 3:50 to climb. It's the same.
      Don't mean to sound rude, but I'm just pointing out that it's not meaningful to argue about the 'justness' of these rules, since all competitors get the same treatment. Fair is fair. They get to decide what to do with those 4 minutes.

    • @violet3142
      @violet3142 4 года назад +4

      @@jarrenleow Except that the first climber out theoretically has an advantage in that case, because the holds are cleaner. Almost every bouldering competition I've seen has someone brush the holds between rounds. This is a very strange exception.

  • @leoross4918
    @leoross4918 5 лет назад

    I love you Margo!!!

  • @casparrii
    @casparrii 2 года назад

    Pretty impressed with the commentator robot they're using here! Still a lot of work to do before it will sound like a real human though

  • @michaelalt845
    @michaelalt845 5 лет назад +5

    シライシ shi-ra-i-shi

  • @Murdog83
    @Murdog83 4 года назад +1

    Note to all commentors on this video making statements about the color commentator not being an expert analyst. It is not the job of the CC person to provide analysis. His job is to explain what is happening. The analyst (Meghan Martin in this case) is responsible for explaining why things happen. That said, he does actually give background information on different climbers that is not obvious. He does just fine.
    I have watched many USA Climbing videos that have multiple climbers giving commentary. They're usually unbearable to listen, because none of them know how to describe the action in an interesting way. I much prefer this ESPN set up.

  • @eemilhyrkko6510
    @eemilhyrkko6510 5 лет назад +6

    Its not the knowledge of the guy what makes him good. He has great voice for tv commentator. Btw when you dont know anything of sport it sounds fine

  • @constanceelaine3909
    @constanceelaine3909 5 лет назад +19

    How was the first women's boulder fair? Crap route setting when the small climbers have such a huge disadvantage.

    • @Tzadeck
      @Tzadeck 5 лет назад +3

      A really short climber won, you know?
      Actually, it's pretty easy to tell boulders that favor tall climbers, but there are a lot of situations that benefit short climbers but they're not easy to identify when looking at a boulder from afar.

    • @constanceelaine3909
      @constanceelaine3909 5 лет назад +2

      @@Tzadeck I know. Taller climbers have a lot advantages, shorter climbers not so. Even Coxsey, who is inches taller than Ashima, mentions height being an issue often. Same with Puccio. Sorry, not buying it. Someone like Puccio has to have extreme strength to climb the outdoor beta her male counterparts can.

    • @xGaLoSx
      @xGaLoSx 4 года назад

      life isn't fair.

  • @StephenAKatz
    @StephenAKatz 4 года назад +1

    By zooming the camera close to the climber, the camera operator makes it impossible for the viewer to see what the climber is trying to do.

  • @yudiamarudin1995
    @yudiamarudin1995 4 года назад +1

    Ashima shiraishi ... Mantul..

  • @SLASHA__
    @SLASHA__ 5 лет назад

    The women did great, amazing competition to watch!!

  • @jarrenleow
    @jarrenleow 5 лет назад +7

    Okay, so everyone's mad at the commentator. But you guys do realise this sport is just about watching 1 person at a time do a thing in 4 minutes. How many different 'complex' things do you expect him to say?
    Sure, the female commentator says meaningful stuff about techniques and such, but there's only so much to say after a few climbers do the same things. Which is why she also speaks a lot less than the guy and only chimes in occasionally.
    If they could only say the things you want them to say, they wouldn't be able to fill the time. This video would be mostly silent.
    His comments may also be helpful to people unfamiliar with the sport.
    There could be world class professional climbers watching this. Should they then complain that the female commentator sucks too since she's saying stuff they already know?

    • @pistolen87
      @pistolen87 4 года назад +2

      Word!

    • @ne5o2
      @ne5o2 4 года назад

      Neither of them are very good in my opinion. I have climbed for 6 months and multiple times I felt I knew better what the competitor should do than the commentator... Multiple times when the contestant caught the final hold she said "(s)he still needs to match!" after it was already clear the climber was in control and already celebrating before matching. And every fall was "(s)he slipped", whatever the reason for falling was.

  • @droplsv
    @droplsv 5 лет назад +1

    Climbing start 9:50

  • @jasonmountain4643
    @jasonmountain4643 5 лет назад +19

    LOL. 10 months ago. and SOOOOOO weird having this ESPN flavor. Next there will be a playstation game called: Adam Ondra: Pro Climber.

    • @awdrifter3394
      @awdrifter3394 4 года назад +3

      It's called Tomb Raider.

    • @valenwood6299
      @valenwood6299 3 года назад +1

      @@awdrifter3394 it's called assassin's creed

  • @pogostix6097
    @pogostix6097 4 года назад +1

    WHOA. I found a sport I UNDERSTAND AND AM INTERESTED IN that isn't Quidditch or Rocket League. Makes me sad the plague happened and the Olympics got postponed :/

  • @bloctribe
    @bloctribe 5 лет назад +185

    The commentator has no clue about climbing. That's a shame...

    • @dannykumite
      @dannykumite 5 лет назад +7

      They overexplained and repeated minor stuffs instead of commenting on the actual climbing movements.

    • @constanceelaine3909
      @constanceelaine3909 5 лет назад +21

      But the female co-commentator Meagan Martin does know exactly what she's talking about and does a good job. Just ignore the guy. He doesn't have a clue.

    • @dannykumite
      @dannykumite 5 лет назад +4

      @@constanceelaine3909 agree. She did a good job explaining the moves. But it would be better not commenting on the chalking and brushing. The DJ is annoying, too. I can't believe he said to ashima on a reachy slab move, "believe it, ashima"

    • @bradleygamble4866
      @bradleygamble4866 5 лет назад

      Thank you

    • @bananabot151
      @bananabot151 4 года назад

      Bradley Gamble you’re welcome

  • @JustinNowellPlaysBG
    @JustinNowellPlaysBG 5 лет назад +1

    There needs to be a volunteer scrubber before the start of each new climber. After that they can re-scrub on their own. Question is...will the climbers trust the scrubber? Maybe they should get a 15 second delay time to scrub before the start of their 4 minutes.

    • @Rishnai
      @Rishnai 2 года назад

      Nahh, that good good scrub gives the climbers a chance to “feel” the boulder from before the first climb

    • @JustinNowellPlaysBG
      @JustinNowellPlaysBG 2 года назад

      @@Rishnai I think they should get some delay time then.

  • @arnoudprinz
    @arnoudprinz 5 лет назад +6

    2:45:30 it is not a top! The top hold has to controled with both hands.

    • @scottwangkl8882
      @scottwangkl8882 5 лет назад +1

      I'm guessing it doesn't change his placing so they didn't bother with it too much.

    • @bwaybig
      @bwaybig 5 лет назад

      Some problems do not require having both hands on the end hold. Haven't gotten there yet tho, so yeah

  • @SmiteKite
    @SmiteKite 5 лет назад +1

    Amazing

  • @luketambakis4216
    @luketambakis4216 4 года назад +2

    Sean bailey can read a route as well as any climber out there

  • @billjensen51
    @billjensen51 5 лет назад +42

    It sounds like he is learning about climbing as he is watching this competition and sometimes as he is speaking himself. Good on him for the effort but I can't believe they couldn't find another climber as a commentator. Edit: Makes it hard to watch with this random, robotic and usually obvious yet unimportant commentating.

    • @KingColliwog
      @KingColliwog 5 лет назад +8

      It's meant for non climber Watching. Most sports, especially less popular one have a "layman" that is there to ask basic questions and such.
      This is bound to happen as they try to get climbing to become a spectator sport

    • @billjensen51
      @billjensen51 5 лет назад +2

      @@KingColliwog Makes sense. I think it still does have a lot to do with his inexperience and would prefer someone with more experience when so many are available but he does certainly provide the utility you mentioned.

    • @KingColliwog
      @KingColliwog 5 лет назад +3

      @@billjensen51 I think the biggest problem is that there is very little synergy with Megan. I'm also not sure she's the best commentator even if she clearly knows climbing. She was probably chosen because she's "well known" since she did ninja warrior and such. They could certainly get a better team, but the "layman and expert" duo is going to stay if climbing is going to make it to the big networks

  • @Subscriber-gt7mz
    @Subscriber-gt7mz 5 лет назад +1

    ESPN 8, the Ocho

  • @LoyaFrostwind
    @LoyaFrostwind 4 года назад +4

    Sean Bailey. Peefecto. Wow. He's a regular Spider-Man.

  • @heavenlymilano
    @heavenlymilano 4 года назад

    Kızlar hem çok minnoş, hem de çok becerikli. Hiç ilgimi çeken bir spor değil ama duramıyorum. Seyretmeye devam.

  • @jamis00
    @jamis00 4 года назад +3

    Did he use to do those car dealership commercials? Or ads for Medieval Times or Monster Truck shows.
    I can hear him just go...
    Kids enter for free this Sunday! SUNDAY! SUNDAY!

  • @V3LAMUSIC
    @V3LAMUSIC 5 лет назад +5

    at 38:02, Sienna Kopf gets Margo's tag.

  • @briseboy
    @briseboy 5 лет назад +7

    ESPN - bouldering was developed in Yosemite Valley in the 1950s and early 60s as a method of training extremely difficult moves.
    In areas near Bishop, it became a winter method of training.
    Smith Rocks was a high level free climbing area of its time, requiring theusual protective gear and ropes.
    Climbing competitions began a number of years earlier in Europe than in teh USA, earl 1980s is as far back as formal comps were well-known in Europe, and a bit after 1985 in teh USA.
    Thank you for not promoting further fantasy tales; instead spend a couple dollars on a researcher with climbing experience, interest, and willingness to explore its history before blabbing garbage on tv or internet.

    • @FishRepair
      @FishRepair 3 года назад

      I don’t know who is spreading misinformation but I appreciate your sense of justice and I learn some things so thank you

  • @Joe.484
    @Joe.484 5 лет назад +46

    Wait a moment. They couldn't find someone to brush the holds for the climbers?! "The fifteen is right over her head" ORLY? Hilarious commentator...

  • @Zacks-Channel
    @Zacks-Channel 3 года назад

    SO GLAD the US switched to the international scoring for bouldering. So hard to watch this after the more recent competitions, it's just not as good of a system here.

  • @kim98677
    @kim98677 6 месяцев назад

    Really shocked to see them struggle so much on W1.

  • @goowik3862
    @goowik3862 5 лет назад +3

    For a newcomer I don't know who commented before, or how he sounded, but this isn't that annoying if you come from watching wipeout videos. Don't get me wrong, I understand that most of you guys hate it, I just feel bad for the commentator when he reads all this ^^ He was probably excited too. Anyways, you wont find many sports where you see opponents do this 1:36:00

  • @jarritoforestal1
    @jarritoforestal1 4 года назад +1

    Bad for Ashima, the first problem was for not small people. So difficult if you dont get the top with the feet pushing.

  • @cks2020693
    @cks2020693 4 года назад +3

    You need a chalk bag watching rock climbing competitions

  • @Cyberdactyl
    @Cyberdactyl 4 года назад +1

    _"6-2 wingspan"_ must be stretch from the Fantastic Four 01:58:26

  • @daddydojang
    @daddydojang 5 лет назад +11

    Shouldn’t the clock start when they make 1st contact? Not when they have to go out and brush?

    • @daddydojang
      @daddydojang 5 лет назад

      Wow! ESPN nice try. Everyone in the comments is right.

    • @SLASHA__
      @SLASHA__ 5 лет назад +5

      well the climbers always use their time to read the problem, otherwise they might read it for ages hahahaha

  • @thesilentmajority2765
    @thesilentmajority2765 5 лет назад +1

    Look, I'm all about great sportsmanship. But when it comes to the time they give them to discuses certain strategies on each route, you best keep them to yourself if you want to win

  • @ccramit
    @ccramit 4 года назад +20

    The commentator is just explaining things for non-climbers.
    Chill out. We get it. You climb and know everything about climbing. Relax.

    • @jackshi1719
      @jackshi1719 3 года назад +1

      He doesn't explain anything for non-climbers tho... It's better to have a climber explain what the athletes are doing in layman's terms than having this guy repeatedly talking about their wingspan.
      For example, if you are watching football, you'all want a commentator who knows football so they don't just comment on the athletes' weight all the time. A commentator who actually know the sport can explain it to a layman much better than a layman who is a commentator.

  • @JoelSchnall
    @JoelSchnall 5 лет назад +141

    Please get rid of this male commentator, he's horrible.

    • @Murdog83
      @Murdog83 4 года назад +1

      Horrible by what standard?

  • @Rinasan28
    @Rinasan28 5 лет назад +4

    I really wish you could just mute Mr. Announcer Voice

  • @ryananderson3909
    @ryananderson3909 5 лет назад

    I never thought I'd say it, but I miss big Pete Ward's commentary so much right now

  • @plugus_maximus
    @plugus_maximus 4 года назад +2

    2:18:47 - what did that spectator know about COVID-19 back in Feb 2019?!?!

  • @jongriffith4293
    @jongriffith4293 5 лет назад +1

    Sean Woodland is my hero. Give him a break. The entire media staff at CrossFit HQ was sacked due to a shift in the direction of the company and Sean has done a kick ass job of diversifying, and he's learning something new...oh yeah, and this is free content...it was a pleasant surprise to see you here and not at a Rogue event.

  • @disgruntledwookie369
    @disgruntledwookie369 5 лет назад +2

    Final move on W1 is a bit mean??? Was the setter 7ft tall or what?

  • @Laura147HLY
    @Laura147HLY 5 лет назад +1

    That women's problem #1 and #4 are SOOO much easier for taller climbers. Being tall is always an advantage, but putting up climbs that are as biased as these ones is still quite lack of consideration from the route setters.

  • @StephenAKatz
    @StephenAKatz 4 года назад +1

    By showing close-ups of Alex Johnson, you completely ruin the viewer's experience. Particularly egregious is the close-up when Johnson is at the top of the boulder problem: you cut out her legs, so the viewer can't see how she is supporting herself. All in the service of the camera operator's showing how clever he is.