Well I wasnt keen on the model before but your paintjob sold the sculpt a lot better then the studio one. Thank you for another informative hobby video. You do so much for the community and it is appreciated.
I love painting wood. Something that gets overlooked is how these videos apply to all mediums. I use exclusively oils and everything you said stays true just the execution is different.
Your videos are one of the best regarding miniature painting. Very comprehendible instructions based on an easy to understand decision making process. I'm really enjoying them!
Really nice tutorial. Kinda want to pickup this model just for the copycat practice now. Thanks for all the guidance and well organized teaches man... You are an invaluable resource.
Again some wondferful stuff. Whenever I need motivation I watch your latest video that makes everything look so easy and then I grab a brush and paint gold trims for three hours straight. This is my secret sauce for progressing with my CSM army. Work has to be done.
What is even more insane when it comes to the leaves is trying to follow nature and paint the two sides different colours. However, 60 dryads and 12 kurnoth hunters in and it is to late to go back. Excellent video.
I rather like the way the armor turned out, like she absorbed the metal from the earth and concentrated it in her body where needed; rather than forging like a dwarf/human etc. I could see maybe in a contest a judge may not see it that way; but thematically I really dig it. ;)
Thanks, Vince! Love love love you sharing and talking through your process. PS. Really need a VV paint line with colors like "Wake Up and Slap Your Momma Green" :)
I think the darker gold looks great - ages the model nicely. I probably would have gone with an aged/dirty silver just to alternate a another colder tone with the warmer wood tones for extra 'table-top pop'. But then again the aged burnished gold feels like it fits the theme of the model really well - like the metal is almost becoming a part of the wood, so yours works great too.
Always love you’re work vince, big fan of you’re hobby cheating vids & watch warhammer weekly nearly every week. Got some lumineth, kruelboyz & stormcast. However long time wood elf player from fantasy era with more of the new aesthetic coming from sylvaneth & woods got better for both players definitely want to do a full army finally my mate wants skaven so ideal time to split a box. Many thanks enjoyed the lady of vines painting tutorial.
Thanks for yet another amazing tutorial. I think the green and gold worked really well. The gold being close to the wood tones seems like a very happy accident; like her armor is natural (maybe minerals embedded / part of wood growth?) rather than some metal plates plopped on.
The Rhinox hide does make it look more like wood, but it looks excellent in the finished product to my eye. It gives it a naturalistic look, and many other approaches to shading gold may have detracted from the overall feel of the mini, to me. Maybe there's some middle ground to be found with a different approach to the armor but nothing springs to mind. Thanks for the video Vince, it gave me some food for thought about my completely unrelated Stormcast army!
i rly like the gold kinda looking like wood you mentioned at the start finding it kinda strange this tree person has a bunch of metal built into them the way the gold looks in the end rly integrates it nicely into the model but still distinct enough
I don't think the gold was a screw up - it differentiates from the wood enough not to look boring but because it looks 'woody' it adds a spicy ambiguity that I like. Almost like how in nature certain animals develop markings that look like something else to intimidate enemies. Is it gold armour that looks like wood or is it wood that looks like gold armour? Who wants to get up close and personal enough to find that out? Will they live long enough to tell the tale? Questions are raised in the mind of the observer and that in itself adds interest to the figure. Nice work 😍
With the armour, to make it stand out I might have considered a more ethereal/elven silver rather than the gold, but in fact I like your gold/brown "error" as it gives the model something for the viewer to discover. You're looking over it and then catch there's actually gold armour you didn't notice at first glance and that can be fun.
Was thinking similar things but the figure is so much about nature that I thought a darker metal at its base with only silver highlights, where it gets the most sun.
Amazing figure and paint job! I think calling the gold a screw up is overkill, but it is quite similar to the brown. Using a greenish antique gold would have also been quite similar, so I guess a red gold could add some nice contrast. Love how your instructions inspire this sort of thinking - would propably not have thought about it otherwise.
Love the model and some great advice. Regarding the gold, would have been interesting to see maybe the turquoise/like a Verdigris used as a shade instead of the brown. Would have gone with the pop colour to keep in with the model, and given enough differentiation from the wood.
Since you ask, Master Vince: I love the "wooden gold" pauldrons: they look great. At the same time they seem to steal focus away from the face when you look at the model. Which suggests that the pauldrons painted with some dark color would fit better? And by "dark color" I mean a color darker than other elements in the surrounding area.
My favorite color is green, but my favorite paints? They're almost all brown or close to it. ProAcryl's Mahogany, Ivory, Citadel's Zandri dust, Snakebite leather, and SoFlat Burnt Umber are all brown and rarely are far from my palette. Brown is great when you want "warm but don't bother looking at this too much."
Great tutorial……I think the armor might have looked a tad too woody, but with the extra layers of bright metal on top of base color, and with the clearly metallic “loin cloth” I believe anyone would easily see the shoulder pads are gold metal but even if they think the items are more wood items, the plates certainly fit right in with the overall theme. Thanks again for another excellent video.
Very cool Vince. I think the gold was quite complimentary, and thus made it more towards I guess more an organic version of gold. Rhinox hide has a nice purple tone to it, so perhaps instead glazes/filters of purple could have also surfficed, but still excellent. One day you'll have to do a video taking us around your Hobby workshop, or as I shall now call it, Olympus
Do you make up your gold recipe just immediately before use, or do you mix up a larger batch and store it for repeated use? If you did mix up a large batch do you think there would be separation issues that couldn't be solved by a quick whisk with a brush and maybe a little thinner?
As a Virginian and someone who spent a bit of time in South Korea, I highly approve of the cherry blossom aesthetic. I may have to steal that for my Sylvaneth. But may go another way (have no idea which direction to take that would be slightly unique). You should definitely start bottling up your Gold recipe and selling it. It's a great mix for the best gold out there. Keep up the awesome work and can't wait for the new game to release soon(ish).
Truly lovely, Mr V. Count me as one of those weirdos that really likes brown. Do you think maybe shading gold with purple would have worked better or is gold just too similar to brown to work in this application? Maybe a sheen of green off the metal like the Green Knights's armor in the old Sword of the Valiant movie. Thank you for the video.
Yes, brown is underrated, but so versatile since it can incorporate so many different tonal variations of reds, yellows and greens. Pink was an interesting secondary colour for the model, I would naturally gravitate to an autumnal orange for the leaves, which would lead me to use a copper or brass for the metals. But I also like the green-gold idea for this.
Yeah, the gold (at least on film) does tend to blend a bit. But hey!! Maybe it's intentional! If I were some sort of forrest spirit, I feel like stealth would be a huge advantage; just think of the pure ambush potential. Losing that to my metal armour would stink.
I called Lady of Vines on the last basing video - vindication! Really like the cherry blossom vibe - other renditions I've seen with green leaves don't look nearly as complete. I agree that the gold blends in a bit too muuch with the wood - especially with the near-white highlights on the wood. Also agree that the spear angle wouuld be worth changing, either at the hand or the whole arm. Ah well, things to note before Golden Demon I suppose. I've been using Inktense Wood mixed with contrast medium for my wooden bits - since that's a bit warmer, combining it with the cold gold could look nice I think. Sad that the rat half of the Skaven/Sylvaneth box didn't have new sculpts, otherwise I'd be pretty well bribed into picking it up!
I feel like the choice of shading on the gold does make it blend in with the rest but not sure that's a bad thing, like you said at the top the metal parts on this tree person do feel like a slightly incongruous element, and I feel like if they stood out more it'd feel more like an out of place bit; as it is those parts do read as metal if you look at them in particular but don't grab your attention when looking at the model as a whole.
I am working on slowly building up my Sylvaneth. I was thinking of trying to do an autumnal style. Should I have the bark be more grey to contrast with the warm of the leaves?
Rewatched this one because I got the model in a box recently. Harmony wise the gold is nice, however like you sad in the video, it does not stand out next to the wood. Maybe you don't want it to stand out though... 🤔 I am thinking bronze with verdigris would look nice in this scheme.
Can you use crackle texture paint, Mordant earth, to simulate bark texture on a dryad? It so, how would it look? Currently looking at some Sylvaneth to paint and I am spit balling some ideas.
It will be tough, because to get some good cracks, it needs to be at least a little thick, it can work, I've used it on rough models or to show things like advanced rust, degradation on some minis, but you have to be careful not to obscure detail.
First off - this paint job is gorgeous. Thankyou for sharing. Secondly - 2 parts. Part 1 - As a fan of white border cards in MTG (for the meme) and having nearly 9k pnts in Skaven I'm going to be white rimming the base on 80 plaguemonks - The question is - whats the best flat white to use for this sacrilege? Part 2 - is it better to "Foil Out" a unit of Censer Bearers? Or to Foil out a 40 piece unit of Clanrats? I have a few ideas for the foiling process, But I'm in need of some pointers. Is it just Vallejo chrome over the entire model and slop chop to finish? Thoughts?
Speaking of the new Sylvaneth, do you have any tips for creating a translucent effect on the underside of the wings of the Gossamid Archers and the Spiterider Lancers?
It's one of the 5 things I tell people never to try to paint. It can be done. but it's an incredibly complicated effect if you're talking about something like dragonfly wings. Now, if you're wanting it to just feel as though it's thin and light is travelling through, You can sort of theat that by making the top of the wing fairly bright, then on the underside of the wing. You gather a highlight color toward the center that is the same tone/temperature as the rest of your light (so warm yellow influenced if that is the highlight for your piece) and then it gets darker toward the edges. Even that is still very tricky.
I love your teaching intermissions with your explanations. I'm currently replacing some paint and want to experiment with kimera and proacryl ranges. I was wondering if you'd mind listing what paints you used, according to the names you put in the video I can't find the paints. Is light green oxide kimeras green oxide with white for example? Thanks! :)
They should be the actual names from the paints, but some of them were from the special kimera line, so I am not sure if they are still available or not.
What are the best light-toned pure blue paints/inks for Winterleaf uses? (e.g. painting, resin coloration, etc.)? I have recently bought three different paints/inks from Amazon that have been advertised as such (e.g. with words like "ice" and "arctic"), and they all contained significant green that made them more of a tropical cyan. I'd also like to avoid straying into the violet direction as much as possible, but no green is the priority. Cheers,
I'm working on the silent king, and I chose to base him in your magic gold mix and use vallejo steel/black templar for the under skeleton. What would you recommend shading him with? I used agrax for some of the runes and stuff like that. But to shade his smooth plates, would seraphim sepia make sense? I would hate to ruin the finish on that lovely gold.
Great video Vince, I like the color combo. I have an unrelated question, I’m going to be attempting nmm gold for the first time soon and was wondering what type of varnish finish to use. The rest of the model will have ak interactive ultra matte. There’s tons of videos on nmm but none really discuss the varnish finish after its complete. Thanks for any insight!
Always very matte for NMM. So when you are painting NMM (or any kind of actual solid contrast), you are stating where the light is falling. You are creating the light. reflective finishes will create light reflections where you don't want them and will disrupt the illusion.
The wood looks so good!!! I bought the model and try to recreate you painting scheme and definitely your gold recipe! But I have a few questions. You didn't talk about your primer. Was it a black undercoat with a grey and white zenithal? And what do you think about a violet wash for the gold?
Hey vince, I'm painting some night lords and i'm painting them on a pale desert bases to contrast with the blue of their armor. However I want the base to look as though its night (for obvious reasons). Do you have any tips on how to make a base/model look like its set during the night?
So that is going to be tough, because unless you paint the sand itself grey blue, it will just read as day. Painting a night scene is pretty tough, but the short answer is you need to drain away all the warm colors from the light. The highlight colors are all cold blue and everything is destaruated. If you google up some images of the desert at night, you will see some good reference photos. Hope that all helps.
Yo, Vince, what are your camera settings for photographing on the white background? The model seems more 2D in those shots. Are you using a professional DSLR camera, or just a phone camera? Thanks in advance. Re: the gold. I'm wondering if some purple and green tones would have actually been a nice choice.
didn't expect the gold to look so much like shiny wood. perhaps a different type of wood colour could have worked. so it really looks like this armor was assembled and not grown. All in all an awesome mini and paintjob! Question: Do you have any tips for painting black latex / leather? I'm trying to paint a catwoman bust, but nothing seems to work the way I'd like
Hi Vince! Do you have a video on painting letters on miniatures? I am struggling somewhat with it. Angular letters like T or N turn out OK, but I cannot paint a decent round letter like O or D for the life of me.
Not specifically, but that is certainly something I should do. I can give you a tip, always turn the miniature so you are sweeping right and toward yourself (if you're right handed). Darren Latham had a great video on this - ruclips.net/video/BMBgOFsHT1Q/видео.html
Do you mean her leaf dress train hanging behind her? I would say something in the rich Orange/Red/Yellow autumn leaves with the same sort of techniques you saw here.
Love it, looks great! I have a question about the “ magic gold”, I’ll mix it up and the GSW pigment tends to drift to the bottom after a short period of time. I’m not sure I need to use less pigment or either more vigorously stir it. Any advice for getting a more smooth mix?
Looks fantastic! I think the shoulders + crown thingy could look better in something pale blue-greenish (like you see sometimes on alarielle, or on a lot of IDK)
Hey, my favorite topic! My research shows that contrast of all kind is important, but the more important part is meta contrast. You shouldn't make the whole miniature universally similar. E.g. saturated ends of vines / desaturated everything else, or bright face and dark body, or head with hue variation and the rest in one color. Without this part it's more of "Making Miniatures Good", which is great, but not the same.
There are many forms of contrast and yes, it often has incredibly varied ways you can use it (or not) to control how the viewer is understanding your figure.
I love this figure, she's sitting on my table waiting for me to build up a bit of courage. I think your gold is absolutely perfect for the model. Yes, it does blend into the browns of the model, but it is also different enough with the metallic twinge where it differentiates itself, but not glaringly so. I think if it had just been "IN YOUR FACE HEY I'M GOLD" it would have been way too much for the model, because as you said, WTF is sylvaneth doing with metal anything?
Thanks for the info Vince. Picking up on your suggestion to experiment - have you ever tried painting Minis with Gouache or Watercolours? Obviously they'll need varnish to cure, but it might be an interesting alternative to Oils and washes?
Painting a Sylvaneth model without using Inktense Wood is blasphemy Vince! Just kidding, there are so many colors that are great for wood. Inktense Wood has a lovely tone though. In general I have had a lot of succes mixing any ink with contrast medium to greatly increase the amount of "contrast" paints I have. Did a test mixing many different mediums with a artist ink (turquoise obviously :)) and the contrast medium came out on top. Bit of a shame, because it's also the most expensive option, but not breaking the bank with the amount we tend to use for mini's. In general I have found that a ratio of 75% ink to 25% contrast medium works well. You can thin it more with contrast medium, but it's quite matt compared to regular contrast paints, so if needed add some water to thin it a little more (or don't if you looking for that matt finish).
Ok I know this is an old video, but I'm asking anyway just in case you read comments even on the old videos: the guide says to paint the inner core before building the rest of the mini, but I notice you didn't show how/if you painted that part. Is it just a case of "if it's hard to reach, it's hard to see and thus not worth painting"?
I love what you did with this model, fantastic! Your mention of your gold mix reminded me, after using the GSW pigments mixed with vallejo metal colour paints for a while, just mixing them up when needed, I tried making a bottle of it the other day.. but when I came back to it several days later the whole dropper bottle was swollen, and as I went to reach for something sharp to unjam the nozzle it just exploded in my hand! Do you have any idea why this would have happened? There should only have been the old gold pigment and like the chrome metal colour in there, now its all over my wall and ceiling :P
@@VinceVenturella Ikr, so weird! I'm gonna try again and keep a close eye on it, all i can think is maybe something else got in there somehow, but I'll see if it happens again
Hi Vince, An odd request. But could you do an future video where the models you paint are Ash Wastes Necromunda Nomads ? Those models are criminally under represented in youtube / pinterest landscape. So would be fun to see what would V-V could cook up with those models.
Yes, there are novels and the most recent ones focusing on the cities of sigmar are good. I believe there is a book around Alarielle, but check out 2+ Tough's channel, he has full lore videos for everyone.
As always vince amazing video. For me, the shoulder pads are too similar to the rest, I’m colour blind so this is probably worse for me than most. Every video is a gem. Keep up up!
Hi Vince apologies, this is almost the opposite of your point today. My son collects diecast aircraft models and has been given one that is bright red. This was to make it obvious to anti-aircraft crews so it didn't get shot down but he wishes it were duller, more field real. I can use something like nuln oil to make panel lines more obvious but I want a meathod to dull the whole bright red paint scheme, maintaining it's essentially red finish but making it look like it was a rough field alteration, not a glossy bright red finish. Sorry to give you this but any guidance would be gratefully received. Thanks.
No issue, so first, you could just matte finish it, that's where I would start, that will dull it a lot. Then you could try some soft airbrush application of something like brown contrast or agrax, something transparent and brown influenced, mainly from below, that will create some natural feeling shadows/weathering. From there, you could do some basic scratching and wearing as well.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince, will discuss with him. To be honest I quite like the model so I think I will buy one myself and use that fir the practice run. Appreciated!!! Cheers John
You say the right knee is a natural place for highlights. But why do you need highlights there? It's just a knee after all. I remember when I looked for Chadukar references, a lot of them had super bright left thigh (after zenithal I assume). But that made no sense. A thigh is not an important element, it has no details. It doesn't deserve to have such volume.
It's prominent and raised, and so would gather light. It's also part of the overall composition of the piece, usually creating a line or triangle of highlights. It's generally a way to keep your eye moving around the piece.
@@VinceVenturella Ok let's see. Long story short, cinema frame rate has been 24fps since the late 1920's when sound film was introduced. With that comes the 180º shutter speed rule, thus when you film in 24fps (or 25p in PAL countries and 30p in NTSC countries) and keep your shutter speed double (1/50 or 1/60 of a second respectively) you get the most natural looking movement, not too sharp but not too blurry either. Also, since cinema tradicion has been 24fps for almost a hunderd years, we are really used to that look and seems natural to us. Using higher framerates will require of smaller shutter speeds, for example if you shoot on 60p, you can't go lower than 1/120 of a second. That creates a really sharp, unatural image, if you play it back at such speed. Framerates above 30p are designed to use slow motion and there's mostly no need to use them if you're gonna film "normal speed" stuff. Also you're wasting more hard disk space (double the framerate means more storage needed) and you're loosing light, since you can't stick to such a low shutter speed (from 1/60s to 1/120s you're losing 1 stop, which reduces the amount of light reaching the sensor by a half). So in poor lit interiors (your videos seem a touch underexposed) you're gona benefit a lot by that extra stop of light and you can lower your ISO resulting on a cleaner and less noisy image. But mainly, yeah, the aesthetic of 60p played at 60p is awful and it evokes the cheap visual look of classic soap operas. Just think about the vastly majority of content creators who know the craft, they are filming themselves at 25/30p for these reasons, and often they use higher frame rates for slow motion b-roll. If you want more info I suggest you take a look at youtube channel "Filmmaker IQ" ("A Defense of 24 FPS"," The History of Frame Rate for Film", &·Debunking "High Frame Rate in Cinema" Myths". Sorry long post, hope it helps.
Well I wasnt keen on the model before but your paintjob sold the sculpt a lot better then the studio one. Thank you for another informative hobby video. You do so much for the community and it is appreciated.
Thank you, I will say, I really do love this mini
Really digging the pink and green combo!
The most beautiful Miniature i have ever seen, really epic!
Hmmm... This channel has been around for a long time but Vince never ages. Clearly the key to slowing the aging process is to paint minis.
There you go.
I love painting wood. Something that gets overlooked is how these videos apply to all mediums. I use exclusively oils and everything you said stays true just the execution is different.
Awesome. :)
Your videos are one of the best regarding miniature painting. Very comprehendible instructions based on an easy to understand decision making process. I'm really enjoying them!
Thank you, that means a great deal!
Vince, you are a gentleman and a scholar. I enjoy all your videos, even on techniques I may never use personally. Thank you!
Thanks!
Really nice tutorial. Kinda want to pickup this model just for the copycat practice now. Thanks for all the guidance and well organized teaches man... You are an invaluable resource.
Always happy to help
Again some wondferful stuff. Whenever I need motivation I watch your latest video that makes everything look so easy and then I grab a brush and paint gold trims for three hours straight. This is my secret sauce for progressing with my CSM army. Work has to be done.
That's awesome to hear!
What is even more insane when it comes to the leaves is trying to follow nature and paint the two sides different colours. However, 60 dryads and 12 kurnoth hunters in and it is to late to go back.
Excellent video.
Thanks!
I love that the gold blended in with the browns, it seemed natural like the figure.
Awesome. :)
Great paint job as always Vince, I love the pops of blue, it always amazes me how patient you are pushing contrast over so many layers of paint
Glad you enjoyed!
Will keep the possible spear repositioning in mind for when I build here.
I rather like the way the armor turned out, like she absorbed the metal from the earth and concentrated it in her body where needed; rather than forging like a dwarf/human etc. I could see maybe in a contest a judge may not see it that way; but thematically I really dig it. ;)
Love this idea
Thanks, Vince! Love love love you sharing and talking through your process. PS. Really need a VV paint line with colors like "Wake Up and Slap Your Momma Green" :)
That would absolutely be my paint name for sure.
Ah, Vince, this is extraordinary work.
Love the production quality of your videos now! Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Will do! :)
I think the darker gold looks great - ages the model nicely. I probably would have gone with an aged/dirty silver just to alternate a another colder tone with the warmer wood tones for extra 'table-top pop'. But then again the aged burnished gold feels like it fits the theme of the model really well - like the metal is almost becoming a part of the wood, so yours works great too.
Thanks!
Hey brother just wanna say thanks for everything that you do again, it’s appreciated.
thank you. Very good explanation of your steps! It gave me the feeling to understand it all...
Damn. What a pretty mini. Great video.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for doing what you do.
My pleasure!
Very nice and great tips. Thanks 😎! I've always loved the Sylvaneth from GW.
Me too!
Always love you’re work vince, big fan of you’re hobby cheating vids & watch warhammer weekly nearly every week. Got some lumineth, kruelboyz & stormcast. However long time wood elf player from fantasy era with more of the new aesthetic coming from sylvaneth & woods got better for both players definitely want to do a full army finally my mate wants skaven so ideal time to split a box. Many thanks enjoyed the lady of vines painting tutorial.
Awesome!
I don’t know what it would look like if you did it the other way, but I really liked the end result here.
Hey, that's good for me. :)
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Thanks for yet another amazing tutorial. I think the green and gold worked really well. The gold being close to the wood tones seems like a very happy accident; like her armor is natural (maybe minerals embedded / part of wood growth?) rather than some metal plates plopped on.
Awesome
The Rhinox hide does make it look more like wood, but it looks excellent in the finished product to my eye. It gives it a naturalistic look, and many other approaches to shading gold may have detracted from the overall feel of the mini, to me. Maybe there's some middle ground to be found with a different approach to the armor but nothing springs to mind. Thanks for the video Vince, it gave me some food for thought about my completely unrelated Stormcast army!
Excellent
i rly like the gold kinda looking like wood
you mentioned at the start finding it kinda strange this tree person has a bunch of metal built into them
the way the gold looks in the end rly integrates it nicely into the model but still distinct enough
Thanks!
Great looking paint job, good tutorial
Thanx Vince
Really cool!
I don't think the gold was a screw up - it differentiates from the wood enough not to look boring but because it looks 'woody' it adds a spicy ambiguity that I like. Almost like how in nature certain animals develop markings that look like something else to intimidate enemies. Is it gold armour that looks like wood or is it wood that looks like gold armour? Who wants to get up close and personal enough to find that out? Will they live long enough to tell the tale? Questions are raised in the mind of the observer and that in itself adds interest to the figure. Nice work 😍
Thanks, glad you liked it!
With the armour, to make it stand out I might have considered a more ethereal/elven silver rather than the gold, but in fact I like your gold/brown "error" as it gives the model something for the viewer to discover. You're looking over it and then catch there's actually gold armour you didn't notice at first glance and that can be fun.
Was thinking similar things but the figure is so much about nature that I thought a darker metal at its base with only silver highlights, where it gets the most sun.
Good thoughts.
Damn it, Vince. Now I want to paint this model.
Nothing wrong with that!
Amazing figure and paint job! I think calling the gold a screw up is overkill, but it is quite similar to the brown. Using a greenish antique gold would have also been quite similar, so I guess a red gold could add some nice contrast. Love how your instructions inspire this sort of thinking - would propably not have thought about it otherwise.
Yeah, I was really thinking about the red.
You did not screw up. I love the rhinox hide/gold.
Love the model and some great advice. Regarding the gold, would have been interesting to see maybe the turquoise/like a Verdigris used as a shade instead of the brown. Would have gone with the pop colour to keep in with the model, and given enough differentiation from the wood.
Yep, that was where I was leaning.
Since you ask, Master Vince: I love the "wooden gold" pauldrons: they look great. At the same time they seem to steal focus away from the face when you look at the model. Which suggests that the pauldrons painted with some dark color would fit better? And by "dark color" I mean a color darker than other elements in the surrounding area.
Both points are very solid.
My favorite color is green, but my favorite paints? They're almost all brown or close to it. ProAcryl's Mahogany, Ivory, Citadel's Zandri dust, Snakebite leather, and SoFlat Burnt Umber are all brown and rarely are far from my palette.
Brown is great when you want "warm but don't bother looking at this too much."
You're not wrong there.
Great tutorial……I think the armor might have looked a tad too woody, but with the extra layers of bright metal on top of base color, and with the clearly metallic “loin cloth” I believe anyone would easily see the shoulder pads are gold metal but even if they think the items are more wood items, the plates certainly fit right in with the overall theme. Thanks again for another excellent video.
Good feedback!
Very cool Vince. I think the gold was quite complimentary, and thus made it more towards I guess more an organic version of gold. Rhinox hide has a nice purple tone to it, so perhaps instead glazes/filters of purple could have also surfficed, but still excellent.
One day you'll have to do a video taking us around your Hobby workshop, or as I shall now call it, Olympus
That should happen for sure. :)
Do you make up your gold recipe just immediately before use, or do you mix up a larger batch and store it for repeated use? If you did mix up a large batch do you think there would be separation issues that couldn't be solved by a quick whisk with a brush and maybe a little thinner?
Yep, mix it each time. I don't like it as a batch, because I always vary it slightly.
As a Virginian and someone who spent a bit of time in South Korea, I highly approve of the cherry blossom aesthetic. I may have to steal that for my Sylvaneth. But may go another way (have no idea which direction to take that would be slightly unique). You should definitely start bottling up your Gold recipe and selling it. It's a great mix for the best gold out there. Keep up the awesome work and can't wait for the new game to release soon(ish).
Yes, if I could make one paint, it would be this for sure.
Truly lovely, Mr V. Count me as one of those weirdos that really likes brown. Do you think maybe shading gold with purple would have worked better or is gold just too similar to brown to work in this application? Maybe a sheen of green off the metal like the Green Knights's armor in the old Sword of the Valiant movie. Thank you for the video.
Yeah, I think the green could have worked.
Agreed on both counts: I love brown tones, and I think a bronze patina for the armor-not that it doesn’t look amazing.
Yes, brown is underrated, but so versatile since it can incorporate so many different tonal variations of reds, yellows and greens. Pink was an interesting secondary colour for the model, I would naturally gravitate to an autumnal orange for the leaves, which would lead me to use a copper or brass for the metals. But I also like the green-gold idea for this.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Another great vid as per normal, i was just wondering why the white primer and not the normal zenithal. Thanks for all your work.
Just durability
Yeah, the gold (at least on film) does tend to blend a bit. But hey!! Maybe it's intentional!
If I were some sort of forrest spirit, I feel like stealth would be a huge advantage; just think of the pure ambush potential. Losing that to my metal armour would stink.
Good call
I called Lady of Vines on the last basing video - vindication! Really like the cherry blossom vibe - other renditions I've seen with green leaves don't look nearly as complete. I agree that the gold blends in a bit too muuch with the wood - especially with the near-white highlights on the wood. Also agree that the spear angle wouuld be worth changing, either at the hand or the whole arm. Ah well, things to note before Golden Demon I suppose.
I've been using Inktense Wood mixed with contrast medium for my wooden bits - since that's a bit warmer, combining it with the cold gold could look nice I think. Sad that the rat half of the Skaven/Sylvaneth box didn't have new sculpts, otherwise I'd be pretty well bribed into picking it up!
Yep, eventually we have to get our Skaven sculpts right...? Right?
I feel like the choice of shading on the gold does make it blend in with the rest but not sure that's a bad thing, like you said at the top the metal parts on this tree person do feel like a slightly incongruous element, and I feel like if they stood out more it'd feel more like an out of place bit; as it is those parts do read as metal if you look at them in particular but don't grab your attention when looking at the model as a whole.
I am working on slowly building up my Sylvaneth. I was thinking of trying to do an autumnal style. Should I have the bark be more grey to contrast with the warm of the leaves?
Absolutely, a little more cool grey can really make the warm oranges pop.
Rewatched this one because I got the model in a box recently. Harmony wise the gold is nice, however like you sad in the video, it does not stand out next to the wood. Maybe you don't want it to stand out though... 🤔 I am thinking bronze with verdigris would look nice in this scheme.
Can you use crackle texture paint, Mordant earth, to simulate bark texture on a dryad? It so, how would it look? Currently looking at some Sylvaneth to paint and I am spit balling some ideas.
It will be tough, because to get some good cracks, it needs to be at least a little thick, it can work, I've used it on rough models or to show things like advanced rust, degradation on some minis, but you have to be careful not to obscure detail.
First off - this paint job is gorgeous. Thankyou for sharing.
Secondly - 2 parts.
Part 1 -
As a fan of white border cards in MTG (for the meme) and having nearly 9k pnts in Skaven I'm going to be white rimming the base on 80 plaguemonks -
The question is - whats the best flat white to use for this sacrilege?
Part 2 -
is it better to "Foil Out" a unit of Censer Bearers? Or to Foil out a 40 piece unit of Clanrats? I have a few ideas for the foiling process, But I'm in need of some pointers. Is it just Vallejo chrome over the entire model and slop chop to finish? Thoughts?
1) Probably just a solid white ink or Pro Acryl Titanium White over a grey prime.
2) Sure, that could work, it's a very funny idea.
@@VinceVenturella thankyou - hope it 🙏 works out lol
Speaking of the new Sylvaneth, do you have any tips for creating a translucent effect on the underside of the wings of the Gossamid Archers and the Spiterider Lancers?
It's one of the 5 things I tell people never to try to paint. It can be done. but it's an incredibly complicated effect if you're talking about something like dragonfly wings. Now, if you're wanting it to just feel as though it's thin and light is travelling through, You can sort of theat that by making the top of the wing fairly bright, then on the underside of the wing. You gather a highlight color toward the center that is the same tone/temperature as the rest of your light (so warm yellow influenced if that is the highlight for your piece) and then it gets darker toward the edges. Even that is still very tricky.
@@VinceVenturella Ooh, what are the other four things to not try to paint? That could be a fun video on its own.
I love your teaching intermissions with your explanations. I'm currently replacing some paint and want to experiment with kimera and proacryl ranges. I was wondering if you'd mind listing what paints you used, according to the names you put in the video I can't find the paints. Is light green oxide kimeras green oxide with white for example? Thanks! :)
They should be the actual names from the paints, but some of them were from the special kimera line, so I am not sure if they are still available or not.
What are the best light-toned pure blue paints/inks for Winterleaf uses? (e.g. painting, resin coloration, etc.)?
I have recently bought three different paints/inks from Amazon that have been advertised as such (e.g. with words like "ice" and "arctic"), and they all contained significant green that made them more of a tropical cyan.
I'd also like to avoid straying into the violet direction as much as possible, but no green is the priority.
Cheers,
Glacier Blue from Vallejo, Pastel Blue from AK, sky blue from Pro Acryl and the new Pylar Glacier contrast paint are all pretty cold, pure blue.
I'm working on the silent king, and I chose to base him in your magic gold mix and use vallejo steel/black templar for the under skeleton. What would you recommend shading him with? I used agrax for some of the runes and stuff like that. But to shade his smooth plates, would seraphim sepia make sense? I would hate to ruin the finish on that lovely gold.
Honestly, thin Rhinox hide really is my favorite because of the purple tone, then a little seraphim sepia to smooth the edges of your shadows.
Great video Vince, I like the color combo. I have an unrelated question, I’m going to be attempting nmm gold for the first time soon and was wondering what type of varnish finish to use. The rest of the model will have ak interactive ultra matte. There’s tons of videos on nmm but none really discuss the varnish finish after its complete. Thanks for any insight!
Always very matte for NMM. So when you are painting NMM (or any kind of actual solid contrast), you are stating where the light is falling. You are creating the light. reflective finishes will create light reflections where you don't want them and will disrupt the illusion.
Thank you very much, that's helpful
The wood looks so good!!!
I bought the model and try to recreate you painting scheme and definitely your gold recipe!
But I have a few questions.
You didn't talk about your primer. Was it a black undercoat with a grey and white zenithal?
And what do you think about a violet wash for the gold?
1) Yes, that was the undershade.
2) Absolutely, purple is great.
Hey vince, I'm painting some night lords and i'm painting them on a pale desert bases to contrast with the blue of their armor. However I want the base to look as though its night (for obvious reasons). Do you have any tips on how to make a base/model look like its set during the night?
So that is going to be tough, because unless you paint the sand itself grey blue, it will just read as day. Painting a night scene is pretty tough, but the short answer is you need to drain away all the warm colors from the light. The highlight colors are all cold blue and everything is destaruated. If you google up some images of the desert at night, you will see some good reference photos. Hope that all helps.
Wonder if a bronze with oxidation might have worked for the the metal armor?
That was where I was leaning at the end.
Yo, Vince, what are your camera settings for photographing on the white background? The model seems more 2D in those shots. Are you using a professional DSLR camera, or just a phone camera? Thanks in advance.
Re: the gold. I'm wondering if some purple and green tones would have actually been a nice choice.
Canon Rebel T7i camera, ISO 100, F29, 3.5"
The gold looks great! I think a shinier outcome would have clashed with the pops of blue.
Thanks!
I'm really torn on using copper or like an iron ore. Thoughts? How happy are you with the copper rose gold tone?
Not too happy, I kind of wish I had gone more green.
didn't expect the gold to look so much like shiny wood. perhaps a different type of wood colour could have worked. so it really looks like this armor was assembled and not grown. All in all an awesome mini and paintjob!
Question: Do you have any tips for painting black latex / leather? I'm trying to paint a catwoman bust, but nothing seems to work the way I'd like
It's a tough thing to paint, I cover it in this video (in simple form) - ruclips.net/video/DlHCSFUOp7o/видео.html
Hi Vince! Do you have a video on painting letters on miniatures? I am struggling somewhat with it. Angular letters like T or N turn out OK, but I cannot paint a decent round letter like O or D for the life of me.
Not specifically, but that is certainly something I should do. I can give you a tip, always turn the miniature so you are sweeping right and toward yourself (if you're right handed). Darren Latham had a great video on this - ruclips.net/video/BMBgOFsHT1Q/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella Thanks, I appreciate it.
I just got Lady of the Vines and I am painting her fall colors any advice on how to pain the train? thanks
Do you mean her leaf dress train hanging behind her? I would say something in the rich Orange/Red/Yellow autumn leaves with the same sort of techniques you saw here.
@@VinceVenturella yes and thanks :)
You screw up, yeah right! You one of the best! You keep me going.
I'm curious as to why you chose to basecoat with a regular brush over an airbrush.
In this case I wanted the brush texture, but also, I know not everyone has an airbrush, so I try to make it more available when I can
Love it, looks great! I have a question about the “ magic gold”, I’ll mix it up and the GSW pigment tends to drift to the bottom after a short period of time. I’m not sure I need to use less pigment or either more vigorously stir it. Any advice for getting a more smooth mix?
Might have too much pigment, it should suspend, but you do need to regularly stir it either way.
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the tip! I’ll use slightly less on the next pass. Thanks as always.
Looks fantastic!
I think the shoulders + crown thingy could look better in something pale blue-greenish (like you see sometimes on alarielle, or on a lot of IDK)
Make sense for sure.
Dat base tho! +
Hey, my favorite topic! My research shows that contrast of all kind is important, but the more important part is meta contrast. You shouldn't make the whole miniature universally similar. E.g. saturated ends of vines / desaturated everything else, or bright face and dark body, or head with hue variation and the rest in one color. Without this part it's more of "Making Miniatures Good", which is great, but not the same.
There are many forms of contrast and yes, it often has incredibly varied ways you can use it (or not) to control how the viewer is understanding your figure.
It looks fantastic. how much time did you spent on the whole project?
She wasn’t too bad, maybe like 30 hours
Is there a tutorial for how you made a base similar to this?
Making Forest Bases - HC 349
ruclips.net/video/776sHpQLMgc/видео.html
I love this figure, she's sitting on my table waiting for me to build up a bit of courage.
I think your gold is absolutely perfect for the model. Yes, it does blend into the browns of the model, but it is also different enough with the metallic twinge where it differentiates itself, but not glaringly so. I think if it had just been "IN YOUR FACE HEY I'M GOLD" it would have been way too much for the model, because as you said, WTF is sylvaneth doing with metal anything?
It's a mystery where she got this metal. :)
Thanks for the info Vince. Picking up on your suggestion to experiment - have you ever tried painting Minis with Gouache or Watercolours? Obviously they'll need varnish to cure, but it might be an interesting alternative to Oils and washes?
Yep, I've used Gouache before, it's interesting, not my preferred medium, but it can certainly be done.
Painting a Sylvaneth model without using Inktense Wood is blasphemy Vince!
Just kidding, there are so many colors that are great for wood. Inktense Wood has a lovely tone though.
In general I have had a lot of succes mixing any ink with contrast medium to greatly increase the amount of "contrast" paints I have. Did a test mixing many different mediums with a artist ink (turquoise obviously :)) and the contrast medium came out on top. Bit of a shame, because it's also the most expensive option, but not breaking the bank with the amount we tend to use for mini's. In general I have found that a ratio of 75% ink to 25% contrast medium works well. You can thin it more with contrast medium, but it's quite matt compared to regular contrast paints, so if needed add some water to thin it a little more (or don't if you looking for that matt finish).
Yep, totally agree.
Which oxide green do you use Vince?
Kimera.
@@VinceVenturella thank you vince!
Ok I know this is an old video, but I'm asking anyway just in case you read comments even on the old videos: the guide says to paint the inner core before building the rest of the mini, but I notice you didn't show how/if you painted that part. Is it just a case of "if it's hard to reach, it's hard to see and thus not worth painting"?
Yes, start as interior as you can and work your way out. If something absolutely can't be reached or seen, then ignore it honestly.
7:27, fun fact, bananas don't actually grow into "trees" in the botanical sense
Good to know. :)
I love what you did with this model, fantastic! Your mention of your gold mix reminded me, after using the GSW pigments mixed with vallejo metal colour paints for a while, just mixing them up when needed, I tried making a bottle of it the other day.. but when I came back to it several days later the whole dropper bottle was swollen, and as I went to reach for something sharp to unjam the nozzle it just exploded in my hand! Do you have any idea why this would have happened? There should only have been the old gold pigment and like the chrome metal colour in there, now its all over my wall and ceiling :P
That's crazy, I honestly have no idea why that would happen. SOmething is expanding the air in there, but I don't know what in this mix would do that.
@@VinceVenturella Ikr, so weird! I'm gonna try again and keep a close eye on it, all i can think is maybe something else got in there somehow, but I'll see if it happens again
Hi Vince, An odd request. But could you do an future video where the models you paint are Ash Wastes Necromunda Nomads ? Those models are criminally under represented in youtube / pinterest landscape. So would be fun to see what would V-V could cook up with those models.
I don't have any of those, but I will see what I can do.
@@VinceVenturella 🥰
New camera? Looks great!
Same camera, just using it better. :)
Hey Vince, if by any chance you were to make a paint line, please include 'wake up and slap yo mama' green in the color range.
Absolutely.
👍👍
:)
is there a main kinda storyline of aos? i wanna paint and collect sylvaneth but lore is really big for me, anyone got aos/oldworld book suggestions?
Yes, there are novels and the most recent ones focusing on the cities of sigmar are good. I believe there is a book around Alarielle, but check out 2+ Tough's channel, he has full lore videos for everyone.
@@VinceVenturella thanks man. i forgot about 2+tough
As always vince amazing video.
For me, the shoulder pads are too similar to the rest, I’m colour blind so this is probably worse for me than most.
Every video is a gem. Keep up up!
Good thoughts and I apprecaite it!
Hi Vince apologies, this is almost the opposite of your point today. My son collects diecast aircraft models and has been given one that is bright red. This was to make it obvious to anti-aircraft crews so it didn't get shot down but he wishes it were duller, more field real. I can use something like nuln oil to make panel lines more obvious but I want a meathod to dull the whole bright red paint scheme, maintaining it's essentially red finish but making it look like it was a rough field alteration, not a glossy bright red finish. Sorry to give you this but any guidance would be gratefully received. Thanks.
No issue, so first, you could just matte finish it, that's where I would start, that will dull it a lot. Then you could try some soft airbrush application of something like brown contrast or agrax, something transparent and brown influenced, mainly from below, that will create some natural feeling shadows/weathering. From there, you could do some basic scratching and wearing as well.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince, will discuss with him. To be honest I quite like the model so I think I will buy one myself and use that fir the practice run. Appreciated!!! Cheers John
Magic Gold link?
My apologies, I added the card now, but here it is - ruclips.net/video/26_1W7zR-cA/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella NW
i think a kind of green leaf armour would look nice, Lord of the rings style i guess :)
That's a solid idea.
"A sylvaneth? How will Vince manage to put in turqoise and pink this time?"
btw, what's buff?
Always find a way - buff is a generic bone color in Vallejo and AKs range.
I'm surprised you don't use a wet pallette.
I was using a wet palette for some of it, and a dry palette for other parts. Depended on the paint and my need at that moment.
Vince you once replied me - that a video about painting a frozen characters (like Mr. Freeze) was a good idea. Will you ever make that video? ;)
Yep, I just want to find the right model to do it with. :)
@@VinceVenturella - a Delaque Gang you say? :)
Now I need to know what wakeup-and-slap-your-mama-green looks like....
Do we expect humans to only wear armor made of meat?
Blood for the blood god?
I mean...You have a point, but also...sounds awesome to me. ;)
It's not wake up and slap your Mama gold but I like it
There you go. :)
You say the right knee is a natural place for highlights. But why do you need highlights there? It's just a knee after all. I remember when I looked for Chadukar references, a lot of them had super bright left thigh (after zenithal I assume). But that made no sense. A thigh is not an important element, it has no details. It doesn't deserve to have such volume.
It's prominent and raised, and so would gather light. It's also part of the overall composition of the piece, usually creating a line or triangle of highlights. It's generally a way to keep your eye moving around the piece.
please stop filming in 60p
Oh, why so?
@@VinceVenturella there are technical and aesthetic reasons. Im sorry that sounded a bit harsh, I love your content
@@hav6301 No issue, I'd love to know the reasons. :)
@@VinceVenturella Ok let's see. Long story short, cinema frame rate has been 24fps since the late 1920's when sound film was introduced. With that comes the 180º shutter speed rule, thus when you film in 24fps (or 25p in PAL countries and 30p in NTSC countries) and keep your shutter speed double (1/50 or 1/60 of a second respectively) you get the most natural looking movement, not too sharp but not too blurry either. Also, since cinema tradicion has been 24fps for almost a hunderd years, we are really used to that look and seems natural to us. Using higher framerates will require of smaller shutter speeds, for example if you shoot on 60p, you can't go lower than 1/120 of a second. That creates a really sharp, unatural image, if you play it back at such speed. Framerates above 30p are designed to use slow motion and there's mostly no need to use them if you're gonna film "normal speed" stuff. Also you're wasting more hard disk space (double the framerate means more storage needed) and you're loosing light, since you can't stick to such a low shutter speed (from 1/60s to 1/120s you're losing 1 stop, which reduces the amount of light reaching the sensor by a half). So in poor lit interiors (your videos seem a touch underexposed) you're gona benefit a lot by that extra stop of light and you can lower your ISO resulting on a cleaner and less noisy image. But mainly, yeah, the aesthetic of 60p played at 60p is awful and it evokes the cheap visual look of classic soap operas. Just think about the vastly majority of content creators who know the craft, they are filming themselves at 25/30p for these reasons, and often they use higher frame rates for slow motion b-roll. If you want more info I suggest you take a look at youtube channel "Filmmaker IQ" ("A Defense of 24 FPS"," The History of Frame Rate for Film", &·Debunking "High Frame Rate in Cinema" Myths". Sorry long post, hope it helps.