I'm sure you're aware of the toxicity of UV Resin, but for anyone else watching this: NEVER TOUCH UV RESIN WITH BARE SKIN UV resin will cause chemical burns while uncured. If contact occurs, clean the area thoroughly with alcohol. A heavy-duty household cleaning product can be substituted if none is available. Rinse with soap and water after. Otherwise, another great video, Vince! I love the final product!
Doesn't alcohol dilute resin and make it more skin permeable? I was told you specifically *don't* want to wash UV resin off with alcohol. Soap and water is meant to be better. Granted this advice was for 3D printer resin but I assume it's similar stuff chemically.
Hi Vince, not really related to this video specifically but I just wanted to post my first ever RUclips comment to say thank you for the incredible work you do on this channel. Painting used to be a part of the hobby which I found pretty mystical and, frankly, a real chore. I've been in the hobby for almost 20 years and had never completely painted an army but, starting just before lockdown, I have now painted several to a standard which I would never have dreamed I could manage and its now one of my favorite things to do (AoS or otherwise). You can almost single handedly take credit for that because I found your videos both inspiring and accessible. You are a truly wonderful teacher. Thanks for all your hard work!
Great save on the water. Would love to see one on doing water of different levels of disturbance: still, small ripples, babbling, full rapids/waves. Mostly because I've been scared to do any resin poor on bases for fear of messing it up and it just looking dumb. Could do as part of display board for more space maybe and to hit em all easily. As always appreciate the time and effort to share your knowledge and great sound at the beginning too!
that's awesome! Only thing I'd add, just like paint recipes, write down (aprox) what you do for your basing, if you're going to do an army worth. Great job on the water effects - you just have to go for it with them, I find. And then when/if it doesn't work, learn - videos like this are really encouraging because everyone has issues and getting more ideas of how to work with them, inspires creativity!
Hello, Vince... I've never felt the need to comment on anyone else's channel before, so this is a first for me.. I just have to say a huge "Thank You" for the outstanding content of all your painting/modelling type videos.. I've been painting and converting figures for my own pleasure for many years, although mainly historical but colour theory holds good whatever the subject.. You are the only RUclipsr I've watched who can explain the theory of all things painting and colour, plus show practical demonstration of showcase/competition work without sounding condescending and self important. So many others seem either so full of pretentious B.S that it's like listening to a wine tasting expert, or else so loud and gimmicky that the value is lost...The quality of your painting and your teaching style is superb, sir!... One point I noted on an earlier basing video, you were using water to lubricate "Greenstuff" two part putty. Have you tried using a very tiny amount of vaseline or enamel thinner to lubricate it?.. So much easier with no loss of adhesion and can be worked to a glass smooth finish so no need for sanding, which it doesn't react well to... Thanks again for such top quality output. An inspiration to me and so easy to watch.
Richard, thank you! That all means a great deal to me and I really apprecaite it. As to the water vs. vaseline/other lubricants for green stuff, yep, i've tried other items and just didn't like it. The water is a little finicky in the moment, but just makes it easier for me in the long run.
Jeeeez Vince, I'm literally wincing everytime you touch that uncured resin with your finger! I'm sure there's already plenty of comments as to why...great base, but please use the fingers that're in the glove next time 😁
I never realized that Vince had the art for the Magic card Restoration angel in the background til now. That is super cool! Excellent choice from the Technomancer himself
I always enjoy these tutorials, but I can't help but be disappointed when you go to all the trouble to make such a lovely video and then don't have a 360 or shot of the final product at the end!
Between you and Jeremy from Black Magic Craft, if I have learned anything for resin it is test, test, TEST, and be emotionally ready because you will still mess it up.
I also always get inspired by the Creative Cuts channel, where we tend to get larger dioramas with a great deal of chill and exploration-just the next thing over from this. Today I watched both of you, it's like a relaxed christmas of scenery secrets! And, as others have also said-thanks so much for keeping that “save” in the video. We all need reinforcement that these oopses are recoverable, I think!
Very nice. I appreciate the never give up attitude. When things don't necessarily work out how I planned I struggle to gain my enthusiasm back. I'm a new painter so to get to the point I'm happy with it takes me a lot longer than painters that have years on me. The worse thing that almost made me give up was spraying gloss varnish and destroying hours of work. I like how there's no editing in you're videos gives me hope that painters of your level still make mistakes.
Oh, I make mistakes for sure. The only difference between a beginner and expert is an expert knows how to bounce back from mistakes. :) (at least, that’s what I tell myself)
Great tutorial Vince! I used a lot of it and added some leafs, which are made from real dried leafs. Those were stamped out with a greenstuff world leaf stamp. I collected them in autumn to add some brownish orange and yellow. The resin pour was substituted by water gel mixed with some contrast paint. So happy with my base for Alarielle now :)
Thanks for the forest base update! Perfect timing as well - I'm in the process of finally getting around to a figure from my childhood, a Wood Elf Forest Dragon. You mention that this is a base for an important figure, and I was wondering how much thought you put into figure integration and pinning when building the base. With my project, because it's a massive metal monstrosity, I worry about building the best forest base I can, only to fail at pinning at the final hurdle! Is there any advice you can give on how you would tackle something similar with the techniques you demonstrated here? Thanks again for all of the content. Very much appreciated!!
A little alternate tip, if you don´t want to use pine bark mulch and resin stones. In Painting Buddha painting alchemy dvds, they use this recipe to make stones/slate You take some Milliput (standard or fine white), some FIMO modelling clays and some brown stuff. Then roll out the miliput,fimo and brown stuff into thin thin layers. (in painting acadamy they do this by putting it inside some baking paper and use a spraycan to roll it into layers.) Once you have 10 or 20 pieces of layers of the different material, put them on top of one another like a sandwich. A little like this: One layer of miliput, then fimo ,another layer of miliput, then some brown stuff and then another miliput etc etc. Do so loosely do not press down hard on it, so it becomes airtight. Dap on it loosely and allow the layers to work together. Once you have the right height for your stone (if you haven´t made enough layers just break your "sandwich" in half and put the two half's on top of one another) Put it in the oven and bake it at either 250 degrees fahrenheit or 120 degrees Celsius for 21 to 23 minuets. You might want to get a smaller oven for this since 1: When it bakes, it reeks of burnt rubber 2 Its probably not too healthy to make your food, in the same oven you are make this kind of stuff in. Also bake it in a well ventilated area, just to be on the safe side. Once its done take it out and use a pair of pliers to break it apart and use some sculpting tools (preferably one with large flat surface on it) to shape it into the kind of rock you want. You will notice that in most cases, the places where you put the fimo will be the places it breaks off most easily. Also if you want it to look like slate avoid the soft round edges. I have used it before and it produces some nice result and you will have a lot of smaller pieces that can be used as smaller rocks.
Haven't seen that moss technique before, gotta try that out. Good save on the resin as well, the final result looks great! Do I sense a Lady of Vines painting video incoming? Definitely looking forward to seeing painting wood on this channel - the technique I used is largely based on past Hobby Cheating videos, and I'm interested in seeing how that has evolved.
Bro like I literally have all those materials at hand same branding and everything. How crazy is that? Also great timing for forest bases. I was looking your old hobby cheating video like yesterday
Hey, Vince. With World Eaters coming up, would you possibly be able to make a video exploring brass? I feel like there's a lot of confusion between brass, copper, and bronze.
This is extremely amazing and looks so relaxing! Never tried resin, but I’m planing a nostalgic ghibli-inspired Necron army and will give this a try. Thanks a lot Vince, your technically the Brockhaus of Mini-painting :)
Great video at a great time. I’m about to start a skaven army leaning into the echoes of doom theme of invading a sylvaneth glade. Now I just have to decide which elements of this to take and fit onto the 25mm bases of 100 clan rats!
Super great video. I'd love to see something similar done on a 25mm base, as I always struggle to apply these techniques on the smaller bases so the army look coherent.
It’s tough, often I like to align many of them and kind of spread this across multiple bases, a Little Rock’s here, a little stream there, a little foiliage on that one. Basically when they’re together, they become this.
The paste you use to make the movement in the water - I bought the same thing and mine is a thinner mixture. It doesn’t build up as much as yours does. Just did one layer of it but going to do a second after it dries fully.
I'm happy to see you re-doing something like this. Any tips on how to add a more dark/desolate atmosphere to the forest base with the ascribed techniques?
I sometimes get glossy patches when using lots of thinned super glue like this. But then sometimes PVA glue gives me little white spots. Of course it’s only an issue if I’m adding material after already painting (eg adding grass). Tough to find a glue that doesn’t cause any problems!
I just finished making a base that's meant to be swampy, it was a good first attempt, but this video will be extremely useful going forward. I think what I may do is just cut off a chunk of it, I used a foam as the main material, and I can probably take off a good inch or so off, because right now it's very tall and only has stuff going on over the surface nit the sides.
Love all your stuff, I can never go back and agree with a black rim tho unless it's a display diorama or bust, for wargaming it's always a bad idea as it contrasts heavily with what's on top as well as the table. Theoretically the best is to take the general color of what's on top the base and make the rim one shade darker. GW does this with their marketing art on boxes, for example the start collecting boxes. The science is there, but at the same time using a black rim is also a stylistic choice, even if technically a bad one, it's more important to factor in preference than science. I mean look at goblin green, it looks terrible but in a way it's also super nostalgic, it's of a style long gone that most people nowadays wouldn't like but if you were in the hobby from a certain time period it's a classic look.
Love all your basing videos and happy you saved the resin mistake. Would have preferred some glamour shots at the end but other than that, great video!
So one problem with this: the base looks great.... but where are you putting a figure on top of it? I always end up thinking "where is the figure going to be put on here?" Love the save with the water pour there! Are "rills" the real word for the ripples on a stream though? I hadn't heard it before you said it - you very well could be right!
That depends on the base. I've bought some that seem to have zero consideration for fitting a model on them, unfortunately. When designing one yourself, it would be nice to know thought process for incorporating a model.
Hey Vince, apologies, you’ve probably been asked this at some point before. Have you ever thought of publishing a painting book? Maybe via KS or something. Would be nice to have your assorted techniques gathered together in one place. As much as I enjoy watching tutorials I’m pretty old school and love a good book. You’d have a ton of material and experience to draw from!
Looks extremely good and I really like that you 'made a mistake and fixed it'. If you have a dynamic hero pose, do you build the base from scratch around that pose or do you build the base and then adjust the top to fit with the miniature? Thanks, Chris
maybe you're doing this already (this video was 11 months ago), but you seem to be missing the "grand reveal" ala Squidmar. I highly recommend adding a segment to your videos for it, if you haven't already. We want to see the pretty thing all nicely lit and rotating!
I'm cool with diff size rocks. But if you go there, I gotta call in the sedimentologists and the hydrologists to see if you got a river rock configuration right :P
Loved the vid!! Definitely learnt some new tricks, as an aside how would you make a tree with limbs large enough to believably hold a model on one of it's limbs/is there a kit one could use without *too* much effort(If there isn't that'd be fine, but not havign to reinvent the wheel would be nice)? (Thinking Mirkwood Ranger from the GW Middle Earth range)
Thank you. Also, how do I varnish over metallic paint? Most cities of sigmar units have a lot of armor and such, and I read that matte varnish will ruin the shine effect. I intend to play the game as well, and I heard varnish is a must for that. @@VinceVenturella
Got it. So if I pain normally, not in this sequence, I can just use a thinned down matte varnish like Citadel Stormshield, and just brush over everything besides metal. Thank you so much.@@VinceVenturella
Regarding basing, since I have watched all your basing videos but I did not catch how do you varnish them so all the flock sits in place. Does highly watered PVA glue do the job? Or I can buy matte spray varnish? Especially love your forest basing video..I plan to use leaves and such.@@VinceVenturella
i'm painting most boardgame miniatures, and the mini is always on the base, do you got some tricks to remove miniatures from base? i try some with frosting it, if its glue to the base. but it does not always work. its hard to paint the base with a big fat mini on it ;)
Ive never worked or played with UV resin, will it remain perpetually liquid if its never exposed to UV light? Also, will sunlight cure it as fast as the light?
Great base! I acknowledge this is a bit off topic, but it is in tune with this week's GW releases/leaks. I am intending to build a 40k World Eaters army. What do you think would be a good theme for bases for this army? The models innately have a lot of red, so i thought maybe a forest or frost look would work. Thanks for the help!
In my head i have the idea that my figure step from for Example Wood/Forest into a desert and try to show it on a 40mm Base... do you have an idea how to implement it. Or my Plaque walk on green nature and the steps behind are muddy, dry dark and dead... will be a pleasure if you use the idea for an Vid. :)
You can really just combine the two basing types with a little area of overlap in the middle, but you want it on a slight angle from the prime viewing angle. :)
EZPZ. Paint the base Goblin Green, cover the base in PVA glue, sprinkle thoroughly with a mix of dried oregano, basil and thyme, then give it 10 minutes in a preheated hot-air oven at 150 deg celsius. Boom, you now have a fragrant but ruined base and need to follow Vince's advice instead of this one.
every time i come back, the audio is better and I love you for it Vince! My stupid sensitive ears appreciate your quality increase tremendously!
Trying to improve and balance it
I'm sure you're aware of the toxicity of UV Resin, but for anyone else watching this:
NEVER TOUCH UV RESIN WITH BARE SKIN
UV resin will cause chemical burns while uncured. If contact occurs, clean the area thoroughly with alcohol. A heavy-duty household cleaning product can be substituted if none is available. Rinse with soap and water after.
Otherwise, another great video, Vince! I love the final product!
Additionally repeated contact with UV resin can create sensibilities ultimately leading to life long allergy. So wearing gloves is recommended
@@bodotrenaud7441 Yep people develop lung problems for the same reason when they have a 3d printer in the same room with poor ventilation.
Good tip.
Doesn't alcohol dilute resin and make it more skin permeable? I was told you specifically *don't* want to wash UV resin off with alcohol. Soap and water is meant to be better. Granted this advice was for 3D printer resin but I assume it's similar stuff chemically.
Broooooo... I get it on my hands all the time... I've even got some in my mouth before. Hopefully it'll be all good.
Really missing the money shoot of the finished base at the end of the video.
Appart from that as always amazing video
I was about to write that too, lol
Don’t worry, you’ll get a chance. ;)
I agree!
Hi Vince, not really related to this video specifically but I just wanted to post my first ever RUclips comment to say thank you for the incredible work you do on this channel. Painting used to be a part of the hobby which I found pretty mystical and, frankly, a real chore. I've been in the hobby for almost 20 years and had never completely painted an army but, starting just before lockdown, I have now painted several to a standard which I would never have dreamed I could manage and its now one of my favorite things to do (AoS or otherwise). You can almost single handedly take credit for that because I found your videos both inspiring and accessible. You are a truly wonderful teacher. Thanks for all your hard work!
Thats truly amazing and wonderful to hear, thank you!
Not that much content is focused on basing/diorama building. So happy to see this topic revisited.
Happy to help.
I love the all out basing! When you show every technique, it's easier for us to pick and choose lol.
That’s always the goal for sure. :)
Great save on the water. Would love to see one on doing water of different levels of disturbance: still, small ripples, babbling, full rapids/waves. Mostly because I've been scared to do any resin poor on bases for fear of messing it up and it just looking dumb. Could do as part of display board for more space maybe and to hit em all easily.
As always appreciate the time and effort to share your knowledge and great sound at the beginning too!
That’s a great idea.
Thank you Vince! You can't imagine how much this has helped me!
Happy to help!
that's awesome! Only thing I'd add, just like paint recipes, write down (aprox) what you do for your basing, if you're going to do an army worth. Great job on the water effects - you just have to go for it with them, I find. And then when/if it doesn't work, learn - videos like this are really encouraging because everyone has issues and getting more ideas of how to work with them, inspires creativity!
Good tip.
This has become my most used video by far, love all these layers. Thanks for the insight for making my diorama look beautiful and real
Thanks!
Hello, Vince... I've never felt the need to comment on anyone else's channel before, so this is a first for me.. I just have to say a huge "Thank You" for the outstanding content of all your painting/modelling type videos.. I've been painting and converting figures for my own pleasure for many years, although mainly historical but colour theory holds good whatever the subject.. You are the only RUclipsr I've watched who can explain the theory of all things painting and colour, plus show practical demonstration of showcase/competition work without sounding condescending and self important. So many others seem either so full of pretentious B.S that it's like listening to a wine tasting expert, or else so loud and gimmicky that the value is lost...The quality of your painting and your teaching style is superb, sir!... One point I noted on an earlier basing video, you were using water to lubricate "Greenstuff" two part putty. Have you tried using a very tiny amount of vaseline or enamel thinner to lubricate it?.. So much easier with no loss of adhesion and can be worked to a glass smooth finish so no need for sanding, which it doesn't react well to... Thanks again for such top quality output. An inspiration to me and so easy to watch.
Richard, thank you! That all means a great deal to me and I really apprecaite it. As to the water vs. vaseline/other lubricants for green stuff, yep, i've tried other items and just didn't like it. The water is a little finicky in the moment, but just makes it easier for me in the long run.
Impeccable timing , birthday presents bases now sorted !! Thank you sir !
Happy to help.
It’s so funny to hear you talk about how satisfying rimming is lol I’ve always thought the same 😂
Really great video, I loved the tip about hitting the edge with the light and then taking care of the rest of it, so simple but so good.
It’s one of the reasons I love this stuff so much.
Jeeeez Vince, I'm literally wincing everytime you touch that uncured resin with your finger! I'm sure there's already plenty of comments as to why...great base, but please use the fingers that're in the glove next time 😁
It's not that bad
Never had an issue, but I wash my hands after. :) - using a glove is never a bad idea.
I never realized that Vince had the art for the Magic card Restoration angel in the background til now. That is super cool! Excellent choice from the Technomancer himself
Yep, multiple magic angels. They’re one of my favorite art pieces.
I always enjoy these tutorials, but I can't help but be disappointed when you go to all the trouble to make such a lovely video and then don't have a 360 or shot of the final product at the end!
I didn’t include it because I have it in an upcoming video. ;) - but yes, I should have had a image of the base
Between you and Jeremy from Black Magic Craft, if I have learned anything for resin it is test, test, TEST, and be emotionally ready because you will still mess it up.
You aren't wrong.
I also always get inspired by the Creative Cuts channel, where we tend to get larger dioramas with a great deal of chill and exploration-just the next thing over from this. Today I watched both of you, it's like a relaxed christmas of scenery secrets!
And, as others have also said-thanks so much for keeping that “save” in the video. We all need reinforcement that these oopses are recoverable, I think!
Awesome!
Very nice. I appreciate the never give up attitude. When things don't necessarily work out how I planned I struggle to gain my enthusiasm back. I'm a new painter so to get to the point I'm happy with it takes me a lot longer than painters that have years on me. The worse thing that almost made me give up was spraying gloss varnish and destroying hours of work. I like how there's no editing in you're videos gives me hope that painters of your level still make mistakes.
Oh, I make mistakes for sure. The only difference between a beginner and expert is an expert knows how to bounce back from mistakes. :) (at least, that’s what I tell myself)
Opening the video with a dry delivery double Shrek pun was excellent. Loving the videos
Thanks! Glad you’re enjoying.
Great tutorial Vince! I used a lot of it and added some leafs, which are made from real dried leafs. Those were stamped out with a greenstuff world leaf stamp. I collected them in autumn to add some brownish orange and yellow. The resin pour was substituted by water gel mixed with some contrast paint. So happy with my base for Alarielle now :)
Great Vince. Nice one. Thanks for sharing
My pleasure!
Awesome. I like this take on more of a display or competition piece. Thanks a lot.
Yep, for those special characters, or every base if you’re insane. ;)
Thanks for the forest base update! Perfect timing as well - I'm in the process of finally getting around to a figure from my childhood, a Wood Elf Forest Dragon.
You mention that this is a base for an important figure, and I was wondering how much thought you put into figure integration and pinning when building the base. With my project, because it's a massive metal monstrosity, I worry about building the best forest base I can, only to fail at pinning at the final hurdle! Is there any advice you can give on how you would tackle something similar with the techniques you demonstrated here?
Thanks again for all of the content. Very much appreciated!!
Yep, I built it around the footprint of the model, checking repeatedly as building.
@@VinceVenturella amazing work. We can't even see the footprint. Very smooth! Something to aspire to for sure :)
A little alternate tip, if you don´t want to use pine bark mulch and resin stones.
In Painting Buddha painting alchemy dvds, they use this recipe to make stones/slate
You take some Milliput (standard or fine white), some FIMO modelling clays and some brown stuff.
Then roll out the miliput,fimo and brown stuff into thin thin layers.
(in painting acadamy they do this by putting it inside some baking paper and use a spraycan to roll it into layers.)
Once you have 10 or 20 pieces of layers of the different material, put them on top of one another like a sandwich.
A little like this: One layer of miliput, then fimo ,another layer of miliput, then some brown stuff and then another miliput etc etc.
Do so loosely do not press down hard on it, so it becomes airtight.
Dap on it loosely and allow the layers to work together.
Once you have the right height for your stone (if you haven´t made enough layers just break your "sandwich" in half and put the two half's on top of one another)
Put it in the oven and bake it at either 250 degrees fahrenheit or 120 degrees Celsius for 21 to 23 minuets.
You might want to get a smaller oven for this since 1: When it bakes, it reeks of burnt rubber
2 Its probably not too healthy to make your food, in the same oven you are make this kind of stuff in.
Also bake it in a well ventilated area, just to be on the safe side.
Once its done take it out and use a pair of pliers to break it apart and use some sculpting tools (preferably one with large flat surface on it) to shape it into the kind of rock you want.
You will notice that in most cases, the places where you put the fimo will be the places it breaks off most easily.
Also if you want it to look like slate avoid the soft round edges.
I have used it before and it produces some nice result and you will have a lot of smaller pieces that can be used as smaller rocks.
Good call.
That’s a very nice base Vince. Loads of goods ideas in there.
Thanks!
Another great work, Vince. Thank you. It always feel great when you paint the rim of a finished base :D.
Haven't seen that moss technique before, gotta try that out. Good save on the resin as well, the final result looks great!
Do I sense a Lady of Vines painting video incoming? Definitely looking forward to seeing painting wood on this channel - the technique I used is largely based on past Hobby Cheating videos, and I'm interested in seeing how that has evolved.
You may be into something. :)
Bro like I literally have all those materials at hand same branding and everything. How crazy is that? Also great timing for forest bases. I was looking your old hobby cheating video like yesterday
Awesome!
Thanks Vince! As always, love the terrain basics approach mixed with expert knowledge and humbleness. I learn something every single time!
Thanks!
Fascinating and valuable stuff here. Thanks for giving me more tools as I progress in the hobby!
Always happy to help.
Hey, Vince. With World Eaters coming up, would you possibly be able to make a video exploring brass? I feel like there's a lot of confusion between brass, copper, and bronze.
I will add it to the list.
I looks very natural. Well done 👍
Thank you! 😊
This is extremely amazing and looks so relaxing! Never tried resin, but I’m planing a nostalgic ghibli-inspired Necron army and will give this a try. Thanks a lot Vince, your technically the Brockhaus of Mini-painting :)
always happy to help.
100% raid the garden, especially in autumn, lots of dried seeds, pods and other bits of plant look great in terrain and bases.
Absolutely.
This was a great watch, I would love to see a beach themed base for something the size of a monster or gargant
I’ll do some big bases as well. Great idea.
Would be nice see more videos like this one, you going over old videos for bases
There will be more. :)
I need some lil' metal mixing pots it seems!
They’re very helpful
cork was what really started getting into doing my bases. i really cant recomend a single simple product more. rocks are never grey
Absolutely!
always a treasure: thanks for this Vince, love it!
My pleasure!
You had me at "onion or parfait". Awesome, thank you
Happy to help.
Great video at a great time. I’m about to start a skaven army leaning into the echoes of doom theme of invading a sylvaneth glade. Now I just have to decide which elements of this to take and fit onto the 25mm bases of 100 clan rats!
A little of each on each base. ;)
Super great video. I'd love to see something similar done on a 25mm base, as I always struggle to apply these techniques on the smaller bases so the army look coherent.
It’s tough, often I like to align many of them and kind of spread this across multiple bases, a Little Rock’s here, a little stream there, a little foiliage on that one. Basically when they’re together, they become this.
@@VinceVenturella oh! That's actually super helpful. Thinking of four 25mm bases as one 50mm base or something like that makes a lot of sense.
The paste you use to make the movement in the water - I bought the same thing and mine is a thinner mixture. It doesn’t build up as much as yours does. Just did one layer of it but going to do a second after it dries fully.
Gorgeous, thanx Vince
Thanks!
I'm happy to see you re-doing something like this. Any tips on how to add a more dark/desolate atmosphere to the forest base with the ascribed techniques?
Some more browns and darker tones will generally give that effect.
I sometimes get glossy patches when using lots of thinned super glue like this. But then sometimes PVA glue gives me little white spots. Of course it’s only an issue if I’m adding material after already painting (eg adding grass). Tough to find a glue that doesn’t cause any problems!
Yeah, glue will often casue some challenges, that is why I will always keep a little pigment or wash for covering those areas after everything is dry.
I just finished making a base that's meant to be swampy, it was a good first attempt, but this video will be extremely useful going forward.
I think what I may do is just cut off a chunk of it, I used a foam as the main material, and I can probably take off a good inch or so off, because right now it's very tall and only has stuff going on over the surface nit the sides.
Happy to help. :)
Was looking for ways to spice up my Griffon's forest bases, this will come in handy. Thanks!
Happy to help!
Beauty Vince!
Thanks!
Great video Vince, there’s stuff there I wouldn’t of thought of.
Thanks!
Love it Vince. Great basing
Thanks!
I smell a sylvaneth army coming this summer :P
More trees is good. :)
Loved the magic trick Vince :-D
Glad you enjoyed . ;)
Love this! Can’t wait to try it. Thanks Vince.
Happy to help.
I'm convinced this is just as much a Shrek tribute as much as it is a great tutorial
You're not wrong.
Hoorah I am messing about trying to do these at the moment!
Excellent
Love all your stuff, I can never go back and agree with a black rim tho unless it's a display diorama or bust, for wargaming it's always a bad idea as it contrasts heavily with what's on top as well as the table. Theoretically the best is to take the general color of what's on top the base and make the rim one shade darker. GW does this with their marketing art on boxes, for example the start collecting boxes. The science is there, but at the same time using a black rim is also a stylistic choice, even if technically a bad one, it's more important to factor in preference than science.
I mean look at goblin green, it looks terrible but in a way it's also super nostalgic, it's of a style long gone that most people nowadays wouldn't like but if you were in the hobby from a certain time period it's a classic look.
Awesome video man
Thanks!
Love all your basing videos and happy you saved the resin mistake. Would have preferred some glamour shots at the end but other than that, great video!
Thanks, I was saving the reveal for a future video.
Love the vid as always Vince. Could you tell me the superglue you're using in the plastic dropper?
Just Zap-a-Gap, Medium CA+
So one problem with this: the base looks great.... but where are you putting a figure on top of it? I always end up thinking "where is the figure going to be put on here?"
Love the save with the water pour there! Are "rills" the real word for the ripples on a stream though? I hadn't heard it before you said it - you very well could be right!
It's actually pretty easy to design a model around a premade base
That depends on the base. I've bought some that seem to have zero consideration for fitting a model on them, unfortunately. When designing one yourself, it would be nice to know thought process for incorporating a model.
Yep, this was designed around the footprint of the model, I was checking repeatedly off camera. :)
Thanks for the tips.
Happy to help. :)
Onion parfait?
Now we’re talking!
What’s that diluted glue you’re using in the eye dropper? And what’s the white glue for the cork, Elmer’s?
Yep, just Elmers.
@@VinceVenturella Vince dumb question where can I get the cork locally? Didn’t find at Michael’s
The secret behind nature would also have been a great title. But to be honest, I would also have watched different sizes of rocks =)
Different size rocks will be coming for sure.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks.
Hey Vince, apologies, you’ve probably been asked this at some point before. Have you ever thought of publishing a painting book? Maybe via KS or something. Would be nice to have your assorted techniques gathered together in one place. As much as I enjoy watching tutorials I’m pretty old school and love a good book. You’d have a ton of material and experience to draw from!
I’ve thought about it, maybe some time in the future.
Like for rocks of all sizes!
Yay rocks!
beautiful work Vince. I think 3d printing has made me lazy. Sometimes I miss the days of cork bark, now I just print off bases, and rocks, and plants.
Nothing wrong with printing either, either pieces or the base. It’s an awesome tool.
0:34 .. loved the shrek reference
:)
Looks extremely good and I really like that you 'made a mistake and fixed it'. If you have a dynamic hero pose, do you build the base from scratch around that pose or do you build the base and then adjust the top to fit with the miniature?
Thanks,
Chris
I built this with the miniature pose in mind.
Ok, enough silliness. What was the real-time investment for this base?
You're probably looking at 3-4 hours
Hard to say with drying time here and there, but yeah, not too bad, maybe like 3-6 hours
maybe you're doing this already (this video was 11 months ago), but you seem to be missing the "grand reveal" ala Squidmar. I highly recommend adding a segment to your videos for it, if you haven't already. We want to see the pretty thing all nicely lit and rotating!
I'm cool with diff size rocks. But if you go there, I gotta call in the sedimentologists and the hydrologists to see if you got a river rock configuration right :P
Yep, the geologists always come out in force.
3:15 was that thin CA glue?
EDIT nm, got the answer from 5:30
"a plate full of mashed potatoes and peas..." What a great metaphor!
Thanks!
Loved the vid!! Definitely learnt some new tricks, as an aside how would you make a tree with limbs large enough to believably hold a model on one of it's limbs/is there a kit one could use without *too* much effort(If there isn't that'd be fine, but not havign to reinvent the wheel would be nice)? (Thinking Mirkwood Ranger from the GW Middle Earth range)
I’d make a twisted wire tree, I’ve never done a video, but it’s pretty easy, and if you search for making your own trees from wire, you’ll see them.
@@VinceVenturella Cheers mate, will definitely have to look into it. 👍
Looks good, as always. How would you approach this for smaller bases? 28.5mm and 32mm ones.
Cut out small sections basically, make it so multiple bases together have all of these elements.
@@VinceVenturella thanks 😊
How do you glue a mini to such a base? I am new to the hobby. Learning a lot from you.
Just good old fashioned super glue, perhaps a pin in one foot (which I also have a video on) if I want it really solid.
Thank you.
Also, how do I varnish over metallic paint? Most cities of sigmar units have a lot of armor and such, and I read that matte varnish will ruin the shine effect. I intend to play the game as well, and I heard varnish is a must for that. @@VinceVenturella
@@deusvult333 I cover this in some videos, but I paint all the matte paints, varnish, then paint the metals, then done. I dont' varnish them.
Got it.
So if I pain normally, not in this sequence, I can just use a thinned down matte varnish like Citadel Stormshield, and just brush over everything besides metal.
Thank you so much.@@VinceVenturella
Regarding basing, since I have watched all your basing videos but I did not catch how do you varnish them so all the flock sits in place.
Does highly watered PVA glue do the job? Or I can buy matte spray varnish?
Especially love your forest basing video..I plan to use leaves and such.@@VinceVenturella
How can you be sure a miniature will find a natural pose on the base?
I was testing from initial construction. Basically, as your building up, your testing and dry fitting and adjusting
@@VinceVenturella Ah, ok. Thanks. :)
currently painting queen guinevere from Big Child Creatives and I want to place her on a forest base so this video comes at the perfect moment
Awesome.
What do you use for glue that you drop on the base near the beginning?
I like Bob smith super glue thin or just classic zap a gap medium CA
I'd love to see a model on it
You won’t have to wait long. :)
Is that the product called Gamer Grass Orange Flowers to something else? The online pics of Orange Flowers look much less muted
Yep, that's the product.
i'm painting most boardgame miniatures, and the mini is always on the base, do you got some tricks to remove miniatures from base? i try some with frosting it, if its glue to the base. but it does not always work. its hard to paint the base with a big fat mini on it ;)
I usually just slide very sharp clippers under the feet and then clip them away.
@@VinceVenturella thanks, i will try that. i'm always afraid of breaking something ;)
Just looks like algae water to me. Could use some algae texture I suppose. Really nice colors as usual ^.^ I like the final result.
Thanks!
We’re did you find the crushed glass?
Amish country in a garden store
Ive never worked or played with UV resin, will it remain perpetually liquid if its never exposed to UV light? Also, will sunlight cure it as fast as the light?
There is general UV light in most rooms, so it will cure super slow. Sunlight will tend to cure it pretty fast.
Wow, that looks terrific!! Have you gotten to try the Dirty Down Moss yet?
Haven’t yet, but plan to.
Great base! I acknowledge this is a bit off topic, but it is in tune with this week's GW releases/leaks.
I am intending to build a 40k World Eaters army. What do you think would be a good theme for bases for this army? The models innately have a lot of red, so i thought maybe a forest or frost look would work.
Thanks for the help!
Hmmm…it feels like ruins, ruins of a library.
Thanks for the Shrek nod.
;)
Vince, just to ask, where could we suggest a topic for the video series? Patreon, right?
Yep, patreons can suggest videos. :)
@@VinceVenturella 2nd tier or +, right :D?
@@galan8115 Yeah, I sometimes poll the + tier directly and draw from them.
In my head i have the idea that my figure step from for Example Wood/Forest into a desert and try to show it on a 40mm Base... do you have an idea how to implement it. Or my Plaque walk on green nature and the steps behind are muddy, dry dark and dead... will be a pleasure if you use the idea for an Vid. :)
You can really just combine the two basing types with a little area of overlap in the middle, but you want it on a slight angle from the prime viewing angle. :)
EZPZ.
Paint the base Goblin Green, cover the base in PVA glue, sprinkle thoroughly with a mix of dried oregano, basil and thyme, then give it 10 minutes in a preheated hot-air oven at 150 deg celsius.
Boom, you now have a fragrant but ruined base and need to follow Vince's advice instead of this one.
@Kristian Jensen
You deserve best comment award🤣
There you go.
All videos on RUclips should reference Shrek as smoothly as you did.
Smooth references are like 40% of my content. ;)
i enjoyed this video
Hi Vince! how do I thin my super glue? I just added some water and oh boy... :P
You really can't, you have to get some super glue thin (it's generally in Thin, Medium and Thick or Gel).
@@VinceVenturella I see. Thank you!
I did the exact same thing :) Felt like being in school again and doing the coke + mintos experoment.
what about ogers? do ogers have layers?
Of course!