I am currently going through your older videos. Such a treasure trove of fundamental and advanced techniques! Amazing. And I also like the general tone of "don't worry if you mess up, it's paint, you can probably salvage it, otherwise it will be a lesson and move on". Thank you
I really enjoy listening and learn from your videos, you are the one who showed me not to be afraid to clean an airbrush and demystify the cleaning between paints and how easy it is with your process... Straight to the point with commentaries... 👍
Very detailed, yet simple instructions here. I’ve been painting for years, and have always found faces challenging. Many other tutorials really gloss over the steps and leave out key details. Thanks Vince
Would you consider a series on skin tones? Specifically looking toward tones that may be regionally Hispanic, Asian, Middle-Eastern, or African? • Perhaps just a video on what color palette to use for each? Also, how would you choose a color palette for things like “lizard-people, extra-terrestrials, and deamons?”
Best thing for painting faces is practice. Lots and lots of reps will get you familiar with the basic methods needed. If you have access to a resin printer, just print out a bunch of generic heads or buy some from an Etsy shop. Really good way to practice without the pressure of a “real mini.”
Vince, love the huge improvements we're getting with each video! The hard work looks awesome. I was wondering, and I feel like it might exist somewhere in your huge number of videos, if you have a "this is the list of paints I use pretty consistently" video. I know it isn't always the same, context matters. But I imagine disaster strikes, and you have to rebuild from 0. What would you start with? What is the natural expansion? I would love to have your opinion even down to individual colours and brands. Thanks for the awesome lessons!
As a long time fan of his now I can tell you there are a few that show up for mixing shades and highlights and they never go out of style because they're generally more visually interesting than mixing straight white or black. Also in the case of highlights: mixing white can quickly make too big of a value jump and lead to really visible transitions that are much more work to blend out with lots of glazing later. Hull Red Dark Sea Blue Payne's Gray (usually an ink but still for cold shadows) Ice Yellow Sunny Skintone Glacier Blue Maybe throw in any warm white like a pro acryl ivory If you watch his relatively recent video on steel nmm he does it all with mainstays ice yellow and dark sea blue and it's pretty dope. It's more interesting than white to black and the ice yellow is quite a bit easier to work with than most whites.
Yep, that video is still a pretty good representation, there are always more paints to love for sure and I am sure I should just do that as a yearly series really. :)
A great thing about paces faces on magic users is that you can cheat by just painting the eyes with green or blue osl to make it look like they are in the middle of casting. Much easier Imo than painting eyeballs.
Real gentle hand-holding through a frightening area to paint. Lovely video Vince, thank you. I too will be looking in the mirror for tips on highlights.
Thanks a lot! Chock full of great insights as always and much appreciated. I have a space marine captain who is suddenly in need of some payne's grey stubble.
Great video! Looking much sharper in terms of the camera work, and as always, mega-useful tips. I do have to say, as much as I love the Tendie Twins, I do miss the original intro music...
11:30 can you please do a short video on what size and types of miniatures are good for beginners to try. I’d like to get a few practice ones done before I tackle one of my favourite ones.
Hi Vince, again great video. Painting skin and faces is always a challenge for me. I look forward to trying your paint pallet here for this. I've used different glazes and washes but haven't found the right combo. 👍
1:27 Yellows are very transparant. Yellow Oxide (PY42) however seems to be the exception to the rule. It tends to be quite opaque. There are transparent versions of this pigment, but even those are less transparant than most other yellow pigments. That being said Yellow Oxide is great for skin tones though. And there is also cadmium yellow that it quite opaque, be we don't have a acrylic version of that paint.
@@martinteasdale542 I stand corrected. Although from the swatches on Goldens website, it doesn't look like they cover that much more compared the other yellows. Interesting shout though. From the populair RUclips hobby channel I have only seen Ninjon use them. Wander what Vince (or Marco) things of these paints.
@@Wijkert I don't have the Cadmiums, as I prefer working with non-toxic pigments, but I have the Permanent Yellow and Naples Yellow and they do cover pretty well. They are now in my "go-tos" yellows and ochres. The Pyrolle Red from SoFlat is the best covering bright red I ever tried, it is an awesome color. Pretty expensive though.
The detail is very helpful, thanks. Liking the improved production quality as well. Seems like you are fitting in more in less time. An (updated?) light grey/blue fleshtone video would be welcome. Not your thing, but there will be a lot of Tau needing to be bought to life over the next few months.
I completely agree with the exception of vampiric or undead flesh. Bugman's glow has too much life in it in those cases. But certainly one of GW's best paints.
Excellent as always! Vince, your hair tutorials have all ages quite a bit. Any chance of revisiting that in the future? Hair is totally hit and miss for me. Can't figure out what makes it work despite Emils great video on the topic.
Hey Vince. Would you say your skin tones improved once you spent time learning and understanding how to mix skin colours from other paints? Would you have been able to get this effect if you just relied on premixed colours your whole painting career?
I think you can go either direction, I am sure you can get there from here, but I do agree that mixing your own skin tones will give you a deeper understanding more quickly.
Uhhh. Cominh from the older to the newer videos is such an Upgrade in picturequality. Awesome! Again: thanks a lot mr vinceve Also I am not sure, but did you Upload a video of your favorite paints? I know you always make sure to use what we have but still, would like to see what ypu are using hehe
Vince, why is it that after ever time I watch one of your amazing videos, I end up buying more paint!?! Great tutorial, though I think it would have been helpful to see your mixing ratios on your palette as you progressed through your layers up the skin tone. I know its a PITA to have a palette cam and then edit it into the video, but I always find your videos with cuts to the palette to be the most useful.
From clown to goth princess- good Lord, Vince, that's quite the yo-yo. Great video and thanks for keeping these videos coming. On a side note, I recently caught the gap filling with varnish video you did a few years back- let me tell ya, that takes a lot of frustration out of smaller/ghost seams in scale model kits.
I don't know if this idea works for a possible video, it might not be narrowly focused enough and an overly broad concept/theory episode (but if it does work it might be an easier shoot to work into a busy schedule! :) )...part of this video made me think of it. I think it's kind of like the video you did quite a ways back called "Display Quality Process". Just the way you flowed through all of the different processes in this video and especially when you made a note to say "this in why I'm going in to hit fine details like the sharpest of brow ridges, etc". A video on your high level, zoomed out bird's eye on how you order your process. I don't know if it can be done in a video because everything is so case specific. I continue to progress but I still feel reliant on repeating techniques that feel like individual heuristics that aren't a part of a sound and connected holistic approach AND I don't feel like I'm doing anything dedicated to practice that at the moment either.
Hi Vince. Painting the lanterns round the neck of a gatebreaker. Did you make a video about painting lanterns? (I seem to remember one with sunny skin tone). Thanks in advance.
I've done a few on OSL and those would apply here, I've never done the lantern specifically. If you want the quick version. Base with the mid tone color of the light, do a thin layer of a near-white in the middle of each glass piece, then glaze the mid-tone over the top, then place your mid-tone plus your near white in the middle (standard hot center to softening glow).
Hey sometimes in this video you say yellow ochre (I assume this was a typo?) in the text and I was wondering what brand of either yellow oxide or ochre that you use Soflat has one and I like their red that I have Would golden yellow from pro acryl work? Thanks for all you do
Hi Vince, 2' ish questions. What brand of magnifiers are you wearing? Mine aren't the best to wear with my glasses on and yours seen to fit perfectly. Second, I'm seeing some Doctor Who posters behind you. I'm a lifelong fan. Do you have any Doctor Who miniatures in your collection? Thanks for another great tutorial, -John
Is there any chance for a video that covers darker skin tones? I suppose I could stick with fine art videos about the subject, but I think a solid idea of how to render someone with rich melanin would be very beneficial. I feel like everytime I've tried, the skin turns out looking dry, rather than highlighted.
Hi Vince. A very interesting video. Intuitively I would have thought that skin would be in the red/brown/orange/pink spectrum and I was surprised to see how much yellow you were using here. Also, as a noob I see there is a lot of talk about various "levels" of painting standard such as tabletop-ready, tabletop+ (?), display and competition. How long should I expect it to take to paint a mini to each standard and what level would you say this one is? Obviously skill and experience would also play a factor and I'm sure it would take a beginner like me a lot longer to reach any given standard (even if it is possible!) than it would a skilled and experienced painter such as yourself. Please keep the videos coming - I look forward to them every week.
How would you paint a face that is flesh colored but isn't actually flesh? Like an android thats made entirely out of metal but has a flesh colored face? I know that we use the colors we use to make the flesh seem more alive but what about something that is flesh colored but isnt actually alive?
When it comes to faces, using Vallejo and Scale75, I always have paint lifting up on me. And often get reactivations dropping me down to the zenithal. What is the appropriate dry time for these paints, especially S75, and are you locking in layers with varnish (matte/satin/gloss)?
That's strange, a few thoughts come to mind. First, you may want to try a softer brush, or softer brush strokes, it could be you are applying too much pressure. You may want to try also an occasional varnish layer, that can also help. I didn't do any varnishing here, but I do often do so to lock in previous layers.
The photo looks so much better (and different) than the camera shots! I know it is more difficult to get a accurate representation of your work on camera compared to on photo, but hopefully over time your camerawork will improve and can get a better idea of what you see while you are painting.
question regarding paint. You have a video reviewing Scale75 colors for faces, and you talked really good about them, Yet I cannot find any use of Scale75 for faces on your channel. Do you have an updated opinion about them? Just curiuos :-) Thank you for some really great content, learning allot!
I have really turned away from Scale 75 honestly. I just don't like them very much, they are weaker overall, that being said, I do still use some of their colors, they aren't bad, they just aren't aligned with my style as much. If you're using only a lot of very soft, subtle glazes to get places, as you often do with faces, they can work fine. The skin range is a good range, both the standard and the fantasy & games line for evil skin.
Thank you Sensei! I have a related question where I’d love your input. I’m currently painting a queen of ecstasy from Creature Caster for my Slaanesh demons in teal. Loved your vid on teal but still I struggle to get the highlights smooth. I try to end with “baharroth blue” but it keeps looking stained… any advice? Generally a specific vid on how to deal with glazing light Colours would be great (or is the advice start high, glaze down - like done here?) Sorry lots of text & thanks again for the amazing vid!
I recently subbed, and i do love these painting videos. i havent had a chance to go through your backlog yet, what is your best video on getting flowing paints you discussed, and also maybe a video painting tyranids or similar type models? i am doing fairly well, but i could get a lot better. i think i need to try different brushes. I am using cheap hobby/craft acrylics rather than some of the nicer brands, but i need to stay within my budget as best i can. thanks again as always.
Welcome! glad to have you along on the hobby journey. So, best video on flowing paints, there are a few, but here is two. Sharp thin lines - ruclips.net/video/khaA0gNY-EU/видео.html Paint Consistency - ruclips.net/video/TbCtUYFwFWQ/видео.html Tyranids - ruclips.net/video/744JQgjQs9U/видео.html Some other videos in the speed paint series would also be helpful for that type of work. I will say, I would make a small investment into something like a starter set from Vallejo, you can often find them discounted and you will get much better results with less of the paint fighting you.
@@VinceVenturella cool, thank you. i use what i have as i inherited a rather large collection of the craft paints, so i will need to save up a bit for something else, and i do like to spend my $ on models instead. thank you for the thoughts and advice.
So, if I emphasize the point important point to change my current treatment seems to be..."use more different colors".. using only the standard idea of 3-color base-layer-highlight treatment creates masks... while using a diffuse mix of overlapping transparent colors will result in a more "lively" face.. thanks for this.. I will try this asap... though I must say.. using this on a 28-32mm standard boardgame gaming model will stretch my patience.... probably I will practice this on 54mm+ models.... another question: currently I am with contrast paints (eager to get myself some speed paints) using black and white zenithal undercoats. while I get used to and even to like contrast paints I am not satisfied with the zenithal contrasts. black+white results in a very chalky appearance. while this is great for some games of darker themes I would like to try go for a less contrasty look. contrast paints just don't like the black shadowy areas I get with the standard zenithal. I though about using either a dark brown or cool dark grey tone which would allow the contrasts to work even in the dark shadowy areas. which color would you use for the shadowy base color for zenithal lightning with standard grey seer/wraithbone base color?
There's a video in the early 200s I think about painting ruddy, super tan skin (on a dwarf) and I think it's the video where he does a green undershade because it plays so well with the red content going over the top.
@@VinceVenturella I have been working with a dark purple shadow to a blue highlight as an undertone for super pale caucasian flesh and it's given some cool results
Me: Wow, that’s looking amazing after just a couple highlights, that’s ready for the table for me Vince: You’re probably saying, Vince, that looks terrible, he looks like a clown Me: and this is why I’m terrible at painting faces
Well, one thing to realize is that the camera always makes things look smoother, so it can often look different to you on screen than it does ot me in reality. :)
Do you plan to make a video about female faces? GW often shows us terrifying female faces like Lilith or any from Adupta Sororitas. But there are proofs they can be painted to look beautiful. What makes a face look more pretty/feminine?
In regards to the eyes: I was watching a Darren Latham video (i forget which one), where he was talking about how much 'actual' detail we would see in a miniature, versus what we should actually paint on the miniature itself. My question is, is that if we are indeed painting 'miniature' versions of these 'people', we would not see the actual pupils of the eyes, if the person was actually that small, right? We tend to take everything into relation, while using methods to accentuate contrast. Therefore, we wouldn't actually see every scratch, hair, or pupil of every given mini. Is this a correct philosophy, when it comes to army painting? Otherwise, when it comes to eyes, i try to hit the eyeball with some ivory, and then use a quick hit of any given black, or brown wash, to fill in the crevasses around the eyes. Granted, i understand that for display, or competition painting, EVERY detail needs to be EXTREMELY illustrated, including those small details that you'd otherwise not see, at this scale. Heres a good example, i just though of: Scratches in leather. We tend to put scratches in leather to add realism, and it looks cool. However, if you blow up that miniature (using some magical method), those scratches would look insanely huge, on the leather itself, and thus look unnatural.
Sure, especially for army painting, there is no reason that has to be there. But of course to stand out and increase readability, it can help to over accentuate
Hey, Vince. Great tutorial, but … to my eye the end result looks a bit strange, as if he's been standing on his head in the sun, and got a bit burned in the shadows while elsewhere staying more pale than I'd expect of someone who habitually wanders around shirtless. Unless it's winter, in which case I'd expect more blue :). Maybe that's just me, though? I can'y honestly say I've made a study of how everyone tans.
Keep in mind he’s in direct light, so even tanned skin, especially if sweaty, will actually be quite bright because of the reflected light, only the low mid to shadows would show the ruddy
Well, it's a good question we all ask, the short answer is - when you're happy with it, the long answer is what is your goal with the painting. If you're painting for tabletop or to a time limit, then you're done when you're done. If you're painting to display, then you just keep going until you're insane basically.
Man, the picture is so much clearer. Thanks for this, Vince.
Happy to help as always. :)
You can never have enough skin painting tutorials. Thank you sir. Might I suggest a Drow elf skin tutorial.
You won’t have to wait long
Yeah ! Weekly Vince teachings
You bet!
I am currently going through your older videos. Such a treasure trove of fundamental and advanced techniques! Amazing. And I also like the general tone of "don't worry if you mess up, it's paint, you can probably salvage it, otherwise it will be a lesson and move on". Thank you
Glad you like them!
I really enjoy listening and learn from your videos, you are the one who showed me not to be afraid to clean an airbrush and demystify the cleaning between paints and how easy it is with your process...
Straight to the point with commentaries...
👍
Great to hear!
Huge step up in video quality meets the same great high quality of content! Thanks as always Vince
I appreciate that! The journey of self-improvement continues. :)
Very detailed, yet simple instructions here. I’ve been painting for years, and have always found faces challenging. Many other tutorials really gloss over the steps and leave out key details. Thanks Vince
Thank you, that’s very much the goal, glad the detail is helpful. :)
Would you consider a series on skin tones? Specifically looking toward tones that may be regionally Hispanic, Asian, Middle-Eastern, or African?
• Perhaps just a video on what color palette to use for each?
Also, how would you choose a color palette for things like “lizard-people, extra-terrestrials, and deamons?”
Absolutely, I have just such a video planned!
@@VinceVenturella Thats awesome to hear!
Best thing for painting faces is practice. Lots and lots of reps will get you familiar with the basic methods needed. If you have access to a resin printer, just print out a bunch of generic heads or buy some from an Etsy shop. Really good way to practice without the pressure of a “real mini.”
Yep, it's one of those things where practice really pays.
That 5 o clock shadow trick is neat!
Thanks! :)
Vince, love the huge improvements we're getting with each video! The hard work looks awesome. I was wondering, and I feel like it might exist somewhere in your huge number of videos, if you have a "this is the list of paints I use pretty consistently" video. I know it isn't always the same, context matters. But I imagine disaster strikes, and you have to rebuild from 0. What would you start with? What is the natural expansion? I would love to have your opinion even down to individual colours and brands. Thanks for the awesome lessons!
There actually is one:
ruclips.net/video/MXEWyW_3bo0/видео.html
Your wallet will dislike it though.
As a long time fan of his now I can tell you there are a few that show up for mixing shades and highlights and they never go out of style because they're generally more visually interesting than mixing straight white or black. Also in the case of highlights: mixing white can quickly make too big of a value jump and lead to really visible transitions that are much more work to blend out with lots of glazing later.
Hull Red
Dark Sea Blue
Payne's Gray (usually an ink but still for cold shadows)
Ice Yellow
Sunny Skintone
Glacier Blue
Maybe throw in any warm white like a pro acryl ivory
If you watch his relatively recent video on steel nmm he does it all with mainstays ice yellow and dark sea blue and it's pretty dope. It's more interesting than white to black and the ice yellow is quite a bit easier to work with than most whites.
@@brkfstfd this is great! I appreciate it.
@@ItsDaCMD I felt like it already existed. I wonder if there has been an update in the last couple years?
Yep, that video is still a pretty good representation, there are always more paints to love for sure and I am sure I should just do that as a yearly series really. :)
A great thing about paces faces on magic users is that you can cheat by just painting the eyes with green or blue osl to make it look like they are in the middle of casting. Much easier Imo than painting eyeballs.
Wow. You are a genius with a brush!
Thanks!
Real gentle hand-holding through a frightening area to paint. Lovely video Vince, thank you. I too will be looking in the mirror for tips on highlights.
Thanks!
Thanks Vince
Anytime. :)
My main takeaway from this video was: I don't layer my faces nearly enough. Time is really all it takes to make them look great. Thanks again Vince.
Yep, it's lots of nuance in a small area.
I like this new background music, Vince! Sound kinda magical
Excellent, trying to mix up the background music
Just last night I checked your channel for face painting videos. You're always right on top of it dude.
Well there you go. :)
Great video! I'm sensing a new era of Hobby Cheating camera and audio.
You bet, we’re on a journey of improvement
Once again. Thanks... i look forward to painting tomorrow.
Awesome to hear!
Just a quick comment to say thank you and that the new camera work is much appreciated !
Glad it was helpful and thanks! :)
Really good. I'd love to see this done on a larger bust, with a dark skin tone.
I’ll be doing some more skin tone exploration soon.
Thanks a lot! Chock full of great insights as always and much appreciated. I have a space marine captain who is suddenly in need of some payne's grey stubble.
Excellent.
So you namedrop Duncan while you both put out face painting videos on the same day 🤔
It was a funny coincidence.
Great video! Looking much sharper in terms of the camera work, and as always, mega-useful tips. I do have to say, as much as I love the Tendie Twins, I do miss the original intro music...
I’ll have to see if it can make an appearance in there as well.
Thank you for this, for the first time in a long while I felt like I was in control of the paint, all the best to you and yours
You're very welcome
"Goth barbarian princess" sounds like either a band name or the core idea behind a fun skirmish game team. Thanks for the info though!
Why not both? ;)
This was a great tutorial. Thanks Vince. There is a lot of skill and experience to making this look easy!
Glad you liked it!
liked for the bit with the goggles at the top, stayed for the great video that followed.
Thank you on both counts
Cool! I'll try it tomorrow.
Awesome!
Thank you for confirming my choice of ice yellow!! Great vid and you are always in sink with what I need!!
Always happy to help.
11:30 can you please do a short video on what size and types of miniatures are good for beginners to try. I’d like to get a few practice ones done before I tackle one of my favourite ones.
Hi Vince, again great video. Painting skin and faces is always a challenge for me. I look forward to trying your paint pallet here for this. I've used different glazes and washes but haven't found the right combo. 👍
Awesome! Glad to help
1:27 Yellows are very transparant. Yellow Oxide (PY42) however seems to be the exception to the rule. It tends to be quite opaque. There are transparent versions of this pigment, but even those are less transparant than most other yellow pigments. That being said Yellow Oxide is great for skin tones though.
And there is also cadmium yellow that it quite opaque, be we don't have a acrylic version of that paint.
Golden SoFlat make two Cadmium Yellows. They are artists acrylics, but they are great for miniatures too.
@@martinteasdale542 I stand corrected. Although from the swatches on Goldens website, it doesn't look like they cover that much more compared the other yellows. Interesting shout though. From the populair RUclips hobby channel I have only seen Ninjon use them. Wander what Vince (or Marco) things of these paints.
@@Wijkert I don't have the Cadmiums, as I prefer working with non-toxic pigments, but I have the Permanent Yellow and Naples Yellow and they do cover pretty well. They are now in my "go-tos" yellows and ochres.
The Pyrolle Red from SoFlat is the best covering bright red I ever tried, it is an awesome color. Pretty expensive though.
Very good notes all around.
The detail is very helpful, thanks. Liking the improved production quality as well. Seems like you are fitting in more in less time.
An (updated?) light grey/blue fleshtone video would be welcome. Not your thing, but there will be a lot of Tau needing to be bought to life over the next few months.
I will see what I can do. :)
I love bugman's glow as a base. no matter what final skin tone i'm going for, Bugman's is a great start.
I completely agree with the exception of vampiric or undead flesh. Bugman's glow has too much life in it in those cases. But certainly one of GW's best paints.
It's a really nice GW paint.
Did Vincy Vee get an update in the lens department? The video quality update is astounding!
Glad to hear, just learning how to use the camera. :)
Thanks for the pro tips Vince!
Always happy to help.
Excellent as always! Vince, your hair tutorials have all ages quite a bit. Any chance of revisiting that in the future? Hair is totally hit and miss for me. Can't figure out what makes it work despite Emils great video on the topic.
Yep, we will revisit. :)
Hey Vince. Would you say your skin tones improved once you spent time learning and understanding how to mix skin colours from other paints? Would you have been able to get this effect if you just relied on premixed colours your whole painting career?
I think you can go either direction, I am sure you can get there from here, but I do agree that mixing your own skin tones will give you a deeper understanding more quickly.
What type of magnifiers do you use/recommend? Do they make a noticable difference in your overall painting results?
I got a relatively cheap pair from amazon. I only use them for small details and/or on competition pieces, never really use them for normal pieces.
Thanks!! Great video
Thanks!
Vince, love the new format!
Thanks! :)
Uhhh. Cominh from the older to the newer videos is such an Upgrade in picturequality. Awesome! Again: thanks a lot mr vinceve
Also I am not sure, but did you Upload a video of your favorite paints? I know you always make sure to use what we have but still, would like to see what ypu are using hehe
Yep, I have done a few favorite paints videos, here is one - ruclips.net/video/MXEWyW_3bo0/видео.html
Vince, why is it that after ever time I watch one of your amazing videos, I end up buying more paint!?! Great tutorial, though I think it would have been helpful to see your mixing ratios on your palette as you progressed through your layers up the skin tone. I know its a PITA to have a palette cam and then edit it into the video, but I always find your videos with cuts to the palette to be the most useful.
I'll see what I can do. :)
Someone got new AV equipment!
Just learning how to use the one I've got.
From clown to goth princess- good Lord, Vince, that's quite the yo-yo. Great video and thanks for keeping these videos coming. On a side note, I recently caught the gap filling with varnish video you did a few years back- let me tell ya, that takes a lot of frustration out of smaller/ghost seams in scale model kits.
Thanks, glad to help on both counts :)
I don't know if this idea works for a possible video, it might not be narrowly focused enough and an overly broad concept/theory episode (but if it does work it might be an easier shoot to work into a busy schedule! :) )...part of this video made me think of it.
I think it's kind of like the video you did quite a ways back called "Display Quality Process". Just the way you flowed through all of the different processes in this video and especially when you made a note to say "this in why I'm going in to hit fine details like the sharpest of brow ridges, etc". A video on your high level, zoomed out bird's eye on how you order your process.
I don't know if it can be done in a video because everything is so case specific. I continue to progress but I still feel reliant on repeating techniques that feel like individual heuristics that aren't a part of a sound and connected holistic approach AND I don't feel like I'm doing anything dedicated to practice that at the moment either.
Interesting idea, I will see what I cna do.
@@VinceVenturella I just hope it made sense more than anything lol...
Hi Vince. Painting the lanterns round the neck of a gatebreaker. Did you make a video about painting lanterns? (I seem to remember one with sunny skin tone). Thanks in advance.
I've done a few on OSL and those would apply here, I've never done the lantern specifically. If you want the quick version. Base with the mid tone color of the light, do a thin layer of a near-white in the middle of each glass piece, then glaze the mid-tone over the top, then place your mid-tone plus your near white in the middle (standard hot center to softening glow).
@@VinceVenturella Brilliant. Thank you so much. Very helpful.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks!
That 5 O’clock shadow trick… talk about pure gold! Are you going to be at NoVaOpen this year to teach any classes?
Yep, I'll be there. :)
I would love to see videos about this, but with other skin tones than just beaige caucasian.
Yep, I am going to do a whole skin tone exploration soon.
Hey sometimes in this video you say yellow ochre (I assume this was a typo?) in the text and I was wondering what brand of either yellow oxide or ochre that you use
Soflat has one and I like their red that I have
Would golden yellow from pro acryl work? Thanks for all you do
Hi Vince, 2' ish questions. What brand of magnifiers are you wearing? Mine aren't the best to wear with my glasses on and yours seen to fit perfectly. Second, I'm seeing some Doctor Who posters behind you. I'm a lifelong fan. Do you have any Doctor Who miniatures in your collection?
Thanks for another great tutorial,
-John
1) Random cheap thing I found on amazon that looked good.
2) Big fan of Doctor Who (and many other things, I am a pretty mega-nerd). :)
Is there any chance for a video that covers darker skin tones? I suppose I could stick with fine art videos about the subject, but I think a solid idea of how to render someone with rich melanin would be very beneficial. I feel like everytime I've tried, the skin turns out looking dry, rather than highlighted.
Yep, I want to do a full skin tone video for sure.
Great video super helpful
Thanks!
Hi Vince. A very interesting video. Intuitively I would have thought that skin would be in the red/brown/orange/pink spectrum and I was surprised to see how much yellow you were using here. Also, as a noob I see there is a lot of talk about various "levels" of painting standard such as tabletop-ready, tabletop+ (?), display and competition. How long should I expect it to take to paint a mini to each standard and what level would you say this one is? Obviously skill and experience would also play a factor and I'm sure it would take a beginner like me a lot longer to reach any given standard (even if it is possible!) than it would a skilled and experienced painter such as yourself. Please keep the videos coming - I look forward to them every week.
So I have a video on just that thing - ruclips.net/video/BU647fdIZxQ/видео.html
How would you paint a face that is flesh colored but isn't actually flesh? Like an android thats made entirely out of metal but has a flesh colored face? I know that we use the colors we use to make the flesh seem more alive but what about something that is flesh colored but isnt actually alive?
When it comes to faces, using Vallejo and Scale75, I always have paint lifting up on me. And often get reactivations dropping me down to the zenithal. What is the appropriate dry time for these paints, especially S75, and are you locking in layers with varnish (matte/satin/gloss)?
That's strange, a few thoughts come to mind. First, you may want to try a softer brush, or softer brush strokes, it could be you are applying too much pressure. You may want to try also an occasional varnish layer, that can also help. I didn't do any varnishing here, but I do often do so to lock in previous layers.
Good boy Vincey Vee 🥰🐶
Thanks!
The photo looks so much better (and different) than the camera shots! I know it is more difficult to get a accurate representation of your work on camera compared to on photo, but hopefully over time your camerawork will improve and can get a better idea of what you see while you are painting.
Indeed.
question regarding paint. You have a video reviewing Scale75 colors for faces, and you talked really good about them, Yet I cannot find any use of Scale75 for faces on your channel. Do you have an updated opinion about them? Just curiuos :-) Thank you for some really great content, learning allot!
I have really turned away from Scale 75 honestly. I just don't like them very much, they are weaker overall, that being said, I do still use some of their colors, they aren't bad, they just aren't aligned with my style as much. If you're using only a lot of very soft, subtle glazes to get places, as you often do with faces, they can work fine. The skin range is a good range, both the standard and the fantasy & games line for evil skin.
@@VinceVenturella thanks allot for taking the time to answer my question. Much appreciated. 🙂
The skin looks super interesting. Is Larry the Ogre ever coming back?
Oh, I am sure he will be back eventually. :)
How do you paint chest/back hair?
Blue black glaze and then line it with longer pieces of hair?
Yep, pretty much.
New camera 👍
Same camera, just figuring out how to actually use it. :)
Thank you Sensei! I have a related question where I’d love your input. I’m currently painting a queen of ecstasy from Creature Caster for my Slaanesh demons in teal. Loved your vid on teal but still I struggle to get the highlights smooth. I try to end with “baharroth blue” but it keeps looking stained… any advice?
Generally a specific vid on how to deal with glazing light Colours would be great (or is the advice start high, glaze down - like done here?)
Sorry lots of text & thanks again for the amazing vid!
Start with the highlight, glaze down into the mid-tones.
What kind of Magnifying gear did you use over your glasses? Looking to get something similar.
Just a standard magnifying headset from Amazon, they are all generic and different names, but most can work with the glasses.
I recently subbed, and i do love these painting videos. i havent had a chance to go through your backlog yet, what is your best video on getting flowing paints you discussed, and also maybe a video painting tyranids or similar type models? i am doing fairly well, but i could get a lot better. i think i need to try different brushes. I am using cheap hobby/craft acrylics rather than some of the nicer brands, but i need to stay within my budget as best i can. thanks again as always.
Welcome! glad to have you along on the hobby journey. So, best video on flowing paints, there are a few, but here is two.
Sharp thin lines - ruclips.net/video/khaA0gNY-EU/видео.html
Paint Consistency - ruclips.net/video/TbCtUYFwFWQ/видео.html
Tyranids - ruclips.net/video/744JQgjQs9U/видео.html
Some other videos in the speed paint series would also be helpful for that type of work. I will say, I would make a small investment into something like a starter set from Vallejo, you can often find them discounted and you will get much better results with less of the paint fighting you.
@@VinceVenturella cool, thank you. i use what i have as i inherited a rather large collection of the craft paints, so i will need to save up a bit for something else, and i do like to spend my $ on models instead. thank you for the thoughts and advice.
How much zoom do you have with your glass setup? How much is optimal for painting such detailed faces?
I use a 3x, most come with 1.5-4x
So, if I emphasize the point important point to change my current treatment seems to be..."use more different colors".. using only the standard idea of 3-color base-layer-highlight treatment creates masks... while using a diffuse mix of overlapping transparent colors will result in a more "lively" face.. thanks for this.. I will try this asap... though I must say.. using this on a 28-32mm standard boardgame gaming model will stretch my patience.... probably I will practice this on 54mm+ models....
another question: currently I am with contrast paints (eager to get myself some speed paints) using black and white zenithal undercoats. while I get used to and even to like contrast paints I am not satisfied with the zenithal contrasts. black+white results in a very chalky appearance. while this is great for some games of darker themes I would like to try go for a less contrasty look. contrast paints just don't like the black shadowy areas I get with the standard zenithal. I though about using either a dark brown or cool dark grey tone which would allow the contrasts to work even in the dark shadowy areas. which color would you use for the shadowy base color for zenithal lightning with standard grey seer/wraithbone base color?
Any dark color can yield interesting results based on the color scheme. I like dark reds, greens, and purples.
Do you play with different undercoat colors for skin? I've been experimenting with this some lately. Gives some nice depth to skin tones.
There's a video in the early 200s I think about painting ruddy, super tan skin (on a dwarf) and I think it's the video where he does a green undershade because it plays so well with the red content going over the top.
Yep, as Andrew says, you can experiment with lots of different undertones, anything from red, to purple to green or blue can work easily.
@@VinceVenturella I have been working with a dark purple shadow to a blue highlight as an undertone for super pale caucasian flesh and it's given some cool results
Me: Wow, that’s looking amazing after just a couple highlights, that’s ready for the table for me
Vince: You’re probably saying, Vince, that looks terrible, he looks like a clown
Me: and this is why I’m terrible at painting faces
Well, one thing to realize is that the camera always makes things look smoother, so it can often look different to you on screen than it does ot me in reality. :)
Do you plan to make a video about female faces? GW often shows us terrifying female faces like Lilith or any from Adupta Sororitas. But there are proofs they can be painted to look beautiful. What makes a face look more pretty/feminine?
Yep, I did one already, but it wasn’t as helpful because my camera work was bad, I plan to revisit eventually
Hi Vince I’m late to the party here, but what are those magnifying glasses you use?
Just a generic one from Amazon, if you search for magnifiers on Amazon, you’ll find something like them for your area.
Does this work on a black undercoat
Yep, though you need to build up the base tones a little more.
In regards to the eyes: I was watching a Darren Latham video (i forget which one), where he was talking about how much 'actual' detail we would see in a miniature, versus what we should actually paint on the miniature itself. My question is, is that if we are indeed painting 'miniature' versions of these 'people', we would not see the actual pupils of the eyes, if the person was actually that small, right? We tend to take everything into relation, while using methods to accentuate contrast. Therefore, we wouldn't actually see every scratch, hair, or pupil of every given mini. Is this a correct philosophy, when it comes to army painting? Otherwise, when it comes to eyes, i try to hit the eyeball with some ivory, and then use a quick hit of any given black, or brown wash, to fill in the crevasses around the eyes.
Granted, i understand that for display, or competition painting, EVERY detail needs to be EXTREMELY illustrated, including those small details that you'd otherwise not see, at this scale.
Heres a good example, i just though of: Scratches in leather. We tend to put scratches in leather to add realism, and it looks cool. However, if you blow up that miniature (using some magical method), those scratches would look insanely huge, on the leather itself, and thus look unnatural.
Sure, especially for army painting, there is no reason that has to be there. But of course to stand out and increase readability, it can help to over accentuate
Hey, Vince. Great tutorial, but … to my eye the end result looks a bit strange, as if he's been standing on his head in the sun, and got a bit burned in the shadows while elsewhere staying more pale than I'd expect of someone who habitually wanders around shirtless. Unless it's winter, in which case I'd expect more blue :). Maybe that's just me, though? I can'y honestly say I've made a study of how everyone tans.
Keep in mind he’s in direct light, so even tanned skin, especially if sweaty, will actually be quite bright because of the reflected light, only the low mid to shadows would show the ruddy
Do you think is worth it painting eyes in miniatures that dont have defined eyeballs?
In general, I think its worth it, just as a learning experience.
Question: brows?
Do you mean eye brows? Generally not necessary to paint on 28ishmm
How do you know when to say (done)
Well, it's a good question we all ask, the short answer is - when you're happy with it, the long answer is what is your goal with the painting. If you're painting for tabletop or to a time limit, then you're done when you're done. If you're painting to display, then you just keep going until you're insane basically.
I like you subbed
Thanks! Glad to have you along on the hobby journey.
Hi from a fellow member of the Society of Bald People 😁
We are legion.
@@VinceVenturella 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Vince in 4K HDR?
You bet.
What model is this?
Darkoath barbarian from the new Red Harvest set
Painting what?!?! Oh "fAces" did I ever read that wrong................. ;)
But seriously Vince, great stuff as always.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed.
I can never comment first hehe
There is always a first. :)
SEXY NERD GOOGS!!
You bet.
wouldn't this guy have razor burns?
I assume the axes he shaves with are very sharp.
If you have the time to read this comment, you have the time to go like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm 😁❤️👍🏼
All hail!
well time to shave my head so i can paint better faces
Definitely ;)