Really interesting. Back in the 1990s, World Industries was known for re-screening unsold boards with new graphics. So a kid would buy a "new" board, start to skate it, and the paint would wear off showing last season's graphic underneath. (lmao)
A big reason that the ink is smearing out is the mesh count you’re using. On nonporous surfaces you want to use very high mesh count so that only a very small deposit of ink is going through the mesh so you don’t have to worry about it oozing past your stencil when you print. Especially with the curve of the board and the pressure you’re putting on the squeegee it’s forcing a ton of ink through the mesh, and it’s got no where to go but spread out.
@@craigroyer4310 I would say the lowest I would recommend is 180, but I would recommend 280 mesh. You don’t have to worry about ink deposit because the wood isn’t porous so all the ink is going to be sitting right on the surface of the board. So even with 305 mesh you would have vibrant vivid art.
A 305 would help a little, but not much. The inconsistent off contact is the biggest problem. Now, one thing that would help is if he can grind the squeegee down to have the same arch as the boards, but he would have to be extremely careful to make sure it's smooth and even when he's done. I don't know that you can even still get them anymore, but I've seen plastic frames that have a little bend to help go over surfaces that aren't perfectly flat.
@@jesseerwin1990 I think the tension should also be mentioned. Frames stretched for tees/apparel are far too tight to be used for skate decks. You want it stretched down to 10-11 newtons for skate decks. This will help the stencil and squeegee blade bend around the convex of the bottom of the deck, or the concave top. I also think a harder squeegee blade will help with bleeding also as it lays down less ink. Another thing the OP is doing that will result in bleed is that squeegee angle. It is way too much of an angle. If they kept the squeegee more upright, at sat a 60-70% angle, they would see much less bleed. Finally yes, a curved squeegee is best. So I think a combination of high mesh count, low tension screen, a curved squeegee with a harder blade, and a normal squeegee angle will result in crisp and vibrant prints every time.
This is a tip from an ex-screenprinter of 10+ years! To avoid smudging and bleed through on thinner inks, before you look at additives, look at screen tension, mesh count, and squeegee speed/pressure/ and be sure your only pulling the edge of the rubber, not the flat! And you also don't have to flood with thin inks! Giv it a try and look into a 230-300 micron screen😊 I'm sure you'll see better results, but all in all I'm super impressed with your setup and results!!!
As a former screenprinter (and former skater), the creativity in his setup is inspiring. He's clearly and entrepreneur and knows how to figure sh*t out and make sh*t happen.
I always love when creators like you make videos and leave in all the learning stuff. You know like the bleed over and the bending of the plastic to cover the concave. I just think it's more authentic this way and makes me want to come back and watch more. Great job
@@MatiasArezo I think it depends on your craft/process but most likely you are gunna want to not use water-based because it can run. I learned that the hard way; I printed a bunch with water-based and then when I started colouring them in (with water colours) it became a black, runny mess
This was awesome to watch. I screenprinted professionally for close to ten years, and though your setup isn't optimal, it works, and that's all that matters. A few things to make life easier for you with future projects. Use Illustrator instead of photoshop. Illustrator is vector based. You'll have to re-draw the graphics, but you'll be able to re-size them without getting saw-toothed edges from the raster images. pick up a few different squeegee durometers too. The softer they are, the more ink is allowed to be deposited. Also see if you can rig something that will allow you to change the peel of the screens. Changing the peel means you're changing the angle of the screen to bring the screen either closer, or further away from the printbed. EDIT: Buy a longer squeegee, and print from the side so you're not fighting with the convex shape. Printing from the side of your graphic would essentially be like printing from the clamped side, which is where your peel is. This would allow you to provide even pressure, and would allow the screen to follow the curve so it's not fighting it. Thank you for the nostalgia trip. I used to LOVE printing, and it was truly the only work I did where I felt like I fit in.
When you coat your screens coat the side that faces the skateboard first, then the ink side. Then dry them with the ink side UP. This helps the emulsion be slightly thicker on the underside of the screen creating a gasket for the ink to sit in and transfer to the substrate. Once dried tape your positive to the skateboard side to expose. Using a softer squeegee and not bringing the handle down so far as you stroke across the image will push less ink through the screen and should help with the bleeding. The cut squeegee trick sounds good and I'll be trying that soon. Nice work. Keep it up!
if you're printing with no off-contact that's why it's getting splotchy and bleeding, because wood isn't very porous like fabric or paper is so you'll need to add some kind of stop piece either to the board under the right side of the frame, or you could also try taping a quarter or two to the top and bottom of the frame where they make contact with the board and that will help raise it up enough that you shouldn't have an issue anymore. i used to print for a company that makes wooden kid's toys, and also ran the textile printing department at a bigger place so i've come across most issues with printing on a lot of different substrates with a lot of different kinds of inks. your boards look great!
also watch your pressure too, try to print as light as you can to get the ink through, and also you might want to try raising the squeegee so it's more vertical. printing at such a low angle like you are lets more ink through which also causes the bleeding
@@johnnydove I've done the coin trick for off-contact on flat objects, but wasn't sure what to do with the boards because of the concave and so there was just varying amounts of off-contact. Basically no off-contact in the center, but as much as 1/2" at the edges which is crazy. But I think you are right about the squeegee angle, it was hard because it felt like I needed that low angle to be able to flex the squeege around the concave of the board.
@@sondo_nation9592 Try some foam rubber taped under your screen this helps to snap the mesh away from the surface once the squeegee makes a print pass. Also use less angle + pressure on the print stroke. If you print across the deck rather the down the deck , the curve of the deck not so extreme. Keep up the good work and have fun experimenting. Screen Printing is real learning curve !!
One trick that can help you to avoid ink leaking is make one very light pass with the squeegee, not printing just to cover the screen with a thin layer of ink, then in the second pass you can press enough to print. Thanks for sharing, nice work out there.
This is my first time using both 160 and 200 mesh, definitely liked it more than 110 which is what I am used to since that is what comes on most cheap premade screens. The 200 prints much nicer!
As a skater and a graphic designer I loved this. I want to break into the world of graphic design in skating and you just went for it, respect my man. I love the bubblegum anime graphic you made, I know you're probably keeping them for yourself and your friends but if you decide to sell some I'd def be interested in one. And who knows, maybe this will help me take the first true step in doing my own skateboard design. If you have any tips/advice, even about just going for the thing, I'd love to hear more. And hey, what you're doing is fascinating and pretty dope, don't be afraid to show some enthusiasm in your voice :)
Man, I keep coming back to this video. I just pressed my own skateboards and will be getting into screen printing for them. This video shows the limited amount of space you actually need to get things done.
This video was so cool I never knew how hard it was to hand screen a board. That anime art was so cool we need more brands doing that hookup skateboard anime style
ive had the same problem with the bleeding. I've figured out buying a squeegee with no handle just the rubber part is soo much more easy to get it to contour with the shape of the board
Oh and during reclaim grab some blue furnace filters put that in your sink and cover it with paper towels! it catches most of the ink and emulsion so your plumbing don’t suffer! Keep up the good work lmk if you wanna sell one of those decks love to have a wall hanger in the shop 😎
I used to print my band’s shirts before COVID hit. You just reminded me how much fun I had printing back in the day. I think I’m gunna re-make a couple screens and make some funny shirts. Thanks for the inspo 🔥
I have even more respect for Jeremy Klein at Jk industries for hand screening all his reissue world industries and Hook-ups boards. Great video thanks for sharing
definitely watched how NHS Fun Factory did their board and they got a lot done with a custom screen that was built to fit the concave features of the board but did a good job with what you had
AMIGO!!!! Love your video. This is amazing. Those homemade wood screens look a lot better than the cheap wood screens they sell here locally in my city. I want to one day open up a clothing/skate shop here, and this just inspired me. Thank you!, And greetings from Mexico.
worth noting that because you made the screens by hand and, it looks like, just kind of pulled the mesh as tight as you could by hand, the tension is probably significantly looser than store bought screens, which is good because it makes it easier to push the squeegee down and get better contact on the sides where the board is farther from the screen
proud of you. this is a goal that a lot of us aging skaters probably have but never achieve so, good for you. the graphics look really clean, you did a fantastic job.
This was great. I enjoyed the process. I took a class in highschool in the 90s so I have a bit of old experience. I am interested in screen printing some boards.i am not a fan of heat pressed skate graphics and hope to see more screen printed graphics come back. I would willingly pay more for them.
Very Cool! Good Work! Pointer, when you coat the screens with emulsion, turn them the opposite direction you did, so the emulsion dries to the bottom side of the screen (your stencil side print side, rather than your ink side). This will allow for a sharper print.
seriously so sick. been thinking of screenprinting my own decks for a while now and this video is inspiring me to do it. great graphics and great work!
Really interesting. Back in the 1990s, World Industries was known for re-screening unsold boards with new graphics. So a kid would buy a "new" board, start to skate it, and the paint would wear off showing last season's graphic underneath. (lmao)
That’s interesting. That’s probably how deathwish made the the Jamie Foy two graphics deck.
I remember reading about that in a book or magazine interview somewhere, pretty interesting.
That's actually not a bad idea. At least they don't go to waste
id pay some real money to get my hands on some of those boards now
I want that
That anime girl world peace deck was sick
you can just tell this guy works hard. what a goat
Greatest of all time??
@@SANDYFRECKLE I believe that was what OP meant, unless he insulted him by referring him as a grass eating animal
A big reason that the ink is smearing out is the mesh count you’re using. On nonporous surfaces you want to use very high mesh count so that only a very small deposit of ink is going through the mesh so you don’t have to worry about it oozing past your stencil when you print. Especially with the curve of the board and the pressure you’re putting on the squeegee it’s forcing a ton of ink through the mesh, and it’s got no where to go but spread out.
What mesh count would you recommend for screen printing boards?
@@craigroyer4310 I would say the lowest I would recommend is 180, but I would recommend 280 mesh. You don’t have to worry about ink deposit because the wood isn’t porous so all the ink is going to be sitting right on the surface of the board. So even with 305 mesh you would have vibrant vivid art.
A 305 would help a little, but not much. The inconsistent off contact is the biggest problem.
Now, one thing that would help is if he can grind the squeegee down to have the same arch as the boards, but he would have to be extremely careful to make sure it's smooth and even when he's done.
I don't know that you can even still get them anymore, but I've seen plastic frames that have a little bend to help go over surfaces that aren't perfectly flat.
I was thinking he should sand the jig or router it to match the concave
@@jesseerwin1990 I think the tension should also be mentioned. Frames stretched for tees/apparel are far too tight to be used for skate decks. You want it stretched down to 10-11 newtons for skate decks. This will help the stencil and squeegee blade bend around the convex of the bottom of the deck, or the concave top. I also think a harder squeegee blade will help with bleeding also as it lays down less ink. Another thing the OP is doing that will result in bleed is that squeegee angle. It is way too much of an angle. If they kept the squeegee more upright, at sat a 60-70% angle, they would see much less bleed. Finally yes, a curved squeegee is best. So I think a combination of high mesh count, low tension screen, a curved squeegee with a harder blade, and a normal squeegee angle will result in crisp and vibrant prints every time.
This is a tip from an ex-screenprinter of 10+ years! To avoid smudging and bleed through on thinner inks, before you look at additives, look at screen tension, mesh count, and squeegee speed/pressure/ and be sure your only pulling the edge of the rubber, not the flat! And you also don't have to flood with thin inks! Giv it a try and look into a 230-300 micron screen😊 I'm sure you'll see better results, but all in all I'm super impressed with your setup and results!!!
Wow as a screenprinter / Skater Im so impressed with your setup, These look Awesome!
As a former screenprinter (and former skater), the creativity in his setup is inspiring. He's clearly and entrepreneur and knows how to figure sh*t out and make sh*t happen.
I always love when creators like you make videos and leave in all the learning stuff. You know like the bleed over and the bending of the plastic to cover the concave. I just think it's more authentic this way and makes me want to come back and watch more. Great job
Im glad I can across this video cause the fact that you do all of this in your apartment makes me feel like I can too.
I've experimented with having a slightly loose screen so they fit the concave of the board - it actually worked pretty well
Hi, do you know what type of ink i have to use to print a skateboard, if it is water based or plastisol ?
@@MatiasArezo I think it depends on your craft/process but most likely you are gunna want to not use water-based because it can run.
I learned that the hard way; I printed a bunch with water-based and then when I started colouring them in (with water colours) it became a black, runny mess
@@danielmcnamara_ okey, thank you bro. I am printing t shirt now, but i will print decks in the future. do you have a brand ?
This is the most informative skate screen printing vids ever made
Under the sink...lol awesome,,genius move to stop the light.👍
This was awesome to watch. I screenprinted professionally for close to ten years, and though your setup isn't optimal, it works, and that's all that matters.
A few things to make life easier for you with future projects. Use Illustrator instead of photoshop. Illustrator is vector based. You'll have to re-draw the graphics, but you'll be able to re-size them without getting saw-toothed edges from the raster images. pick up a few different squeegee durometers too. The softer they are, the more ink is allowed to be deposited. Also see if you can rig something that will allow you to change the peel of the screens. Changing the peel means you're changing the angle of the screen to bring the screen either closer, or further away from the printbed. EDIT: Buy a longer squeegee, and print from the side so you're not fighting with the convex shape. Printing from the side of your graphic would essentially be like printing from the clamped side, which is where your peel is. This would allow you to provide even pressure, and would allow the screen to follow the curve so it's not fighting it. Thank you for the nostalgia trip. I used to LOVE printing, and it was truly the only work I did where I felt like I fit in.
Thanks man your comment is really useful I’m starting a little skate company and it really helped me. What are the best ink I should use for skates?
When you coat your screens coat the side that faces the skateboard first, then the ink side. Then dry them with the ink side UP. This helps the emulsion be slightly thicker on the underside of the screen creating a gasket for the ink to sit in and transfer to the substrate. Once dried tape your positive to the skateboard side to expose. Using a softer squeegee and not bringing the handle down so far as you stroke across the image will push less ink through the screen and should help with the bleeding. The cut squeegee trick sounds good and I'll be trying that soon. Nice work. Keep it up!
I’m a screen printer and it is really cool seeing your at home set up, it’s really cool. 🤘 right on, count me in for more episodes to come. 💖
I like your video! I had a problem with bleeding underneath as well. I solved it with an ink called Permaset.
I'll have to give Permaset a try!
if you're printing with no off-contact that's why it's getting splotchy and bleeding, because wood isn't very porous like fabric or paper is so you'll need to add some kind of stop piece either to the board under the right side of the frame, or you could also try taping a quarter or two to the top and bottom of the frame where they make contact with the board and that will help raise it up enough that you shouldn't have an issue anymore. i used to print for a company that makes wooden kid's toys, and also ran the textile printing department at a bigger place so i've come across most issues with printing on a lot of different substrates with a lot of different kinds of inks. your boards look great!
also watch your pressure too, try to print as light as you can to get the ink through, and also you might want to try raising the squeegee so it's more vertical. printing at such a low angle like you are lets more ink through which also causes the bleeding
@@johnnydove I've done the coin trick for off-contact on flat objects, but wasn't sure what to do with the boards because of the concave and so there was just varying amounts of off-contact. Basically no off-contact in the center, but as much as 1/2" at the edges which is crazy. But I think you are right about the squeegee angle, it was hard because it felt like I needed that low angle to be able to flex the squeege around the concave of the board.
@@sondo_nation9592 Try some foam rubber taped under your screen this helps to snap the mesh away from the surface once the squeegee makes a print pass. Also use less angle + pressure on the print stroke. If you print across the deck rather the down the deck , the curve of the deck not so extreme. Keep up the good work and have fun experimenting. Screen Printing is real learning curve !!
Dude thanks for these tips. They're very helpful
One trick that can help you to avoid ink leaking is make one very light pass with the squeegee, not printing just to cover the screen with a thin layer of ink, then in the second pass you can press enough to print. Thanks for sharing, nice work out there.
110, and 155/160 mesh are good for printing thick plastisol inks on dark tees/fabrics, for water base inks stick to 200 and above mesh.
regardless, well done job
This is my first time using both 160 and 200 mesh, definitely liked it more than 110 which is what I am used to since that is what comes on most cheap premade screens. The 200 prints much nicer!
Loving this glimpse behind the artistic curtain :)
As a skater and a graphic designer I loved this. I want to break into the world of graphic design in skating and you just went for it, respect my man. I love the bubblegum anime graphic you made, I know you're probably keeping them for yourself and your friends but if you decide to sell some I'd def be interested in one. And who knows, maybe this will help me take the first true step in doing my own skateboard design. If you have any tips/advice, even about just going for the thing, I'd love to hear more. And hey, what you're doing is fascinating and pretty dope, don't be afraid to show some enthusiasm in your voice :)
These are awesome. I especially like the hair being the color of the deck.
Man, I keep coming back to this video. I just pressed my own skateboards and will be getting into screen printing for them. This video shows the limited amount of space you actually need to get things done.
This video was so cool I never knew how hard it was to hand screen a board. That anime art was so cool we need more brands doing that hookup skateboard anime style
Cool work. Now I just want to go flow through my neighborhood. Thanks for bringing the love back.
Half way in I'm just like damn this is super impressive. Have always wanted to do this and it's basically a diy so thank you for this
wow that's one hell of an art project thanks for sharing
Commenting here to show you support!
@@Dope-thc thank you I appreciate it!
I found most of the screen printing process to be so frustrating, but you make it so relaxing that i wanna do it more again.
having a skateboard with your own design, damn thats so cool!
hmu I can do it for you.
Dude i love this. I really hope you restock because im looking for a new board soon, and id love to have one of these even if its just a wall piece
Very good Video ☺️👍 Fun to watch 👍Very cool skateboards 😎
Im a Graphic Designer and I am actually such in love with your work, this is stunning buddy! Keep up this good work ❤️
Thank you bro…. Really inspired me💯🙏🏽✝️
ive had the same problem with the bleeding. I've figured out buying a squeegee with no handle just the rubber part is soo much more easy to get it to contour with the shape of the board
Its Awesome! Goodjob
Great video ! I'm excited for your next one.
Wow dude thats so awesome
This was awesome. Great job
Deserving of a subscription man. Beautiful person behind the camera
Oh and during reclaim grab some blue furnace filters put that in your sink and cover it with paper towels! it catches most of the ink and emulsion so your plumbing don’t suffer! Keep up the good work lmk if you wanna sell one of those decks love to have a wall hanger in the shop 😎
Thay look awesome 👏 Great job
didnt expect the gray decks to be my favorite!
Very nice, chill and informative video. Thanks!
Love it, everything is on the cheap. Get me a $5 printer, great deal. Thanks for sharing
Nice job, thanks for sharing!
I can see this guy working with passion! You inspire me to do screen printing.
Glad I was able to find this video!
I used to print my band’s shirts before COVID hit. You just reminded me how much fun I had printing back in the day. I think I’m gunna re-make a couple screens and make some funny shirts. Thanks for the inspo 🔥
So dope you came across my recommended page! Now I follow you here and Tik tok
Those are so rad! I want to get into screen printing, I always felt like I didn't have enough space to do it, your setup showed me that I can do it!
Thanks for the greatly detailed description.
10:34 You can thicken inks and dyes with sodium alginate powder. A little goes a long way. 🙂
These are awesome!
these all came out so sick! big respect! always wanted to try this on decks
Great job thanks for sharing 👍👌
looks comfy af. the duotone is often enough for skateboards, nice aesthetic.
This was so inspiring to watch.. thank you for sharing.
Nice job
your work it's really cool and its relaxing see your videos
That was geeat. Very much enjoyed you sharing your experience and knowledge. The finished products were awesome.
I have even more respect for Jeremy Klein at Jk industries for hand screening all his reissue world industries and Hook-ups boards. Great video thanks for sharing
Love this, very helpful thanks marshmallow guy!!
So useful, I plan to start screen-printing soon!! Thank you!!
😀🐉💝
A great video, this goes to show that with a modest investment in equipment and a small space you can achieve quality results.
definitely watched how NHS Fun Factory did their board and they got a lot done with a custom screen that was built to fit the concave features of the board but did a good job with what you had
Yoooo those are sick. I think the different colors of boards really made that second design pop. Nice work!
This is so intricate. I'm so in love with this whole process.
lovely, i don't board but this was so interesting! Thanks for sharing
They came out super cool!
so cool man
These are so sick dude. Best video I’ve seen in a while ✨
Very informational tutorial! Many thanks :)
Beautiful work !
AMIGO!!!! Love your video. This is amazing. Those homemade wood screens look a lot better than the cheap wood screens they sell here locally in my city. I want to one day open up a clothing/skate shop here, and this just inspired me. Thank you!, And greetings from Mexico.
love the world peace ones, here from tik tok
Dude the world peace deck❤
they turned out great! looking really sharp.
Super chill and informative!! Really want to do! Next paycheck maybe haha 🤟🏽
Great work. Makes me wanna try it myself.
These are some goooood looking graphics, amazing!!!!! Love it!
Great video very interesting set up. Well done
My dude, you killed it. Good job.
This video made me smile. I really admire the simplicity and the sincerity of the video. I wish you the best in your screen printing hobby/career.
This is such a cozy and inspiring video
Love this!
Very cool process, nice work.
And you have some really nice wood floors.
This was so awesome, I've been screen printing shirts and shorts but really want to do some boards. This pumped me up to try.
Great job, thanks for sharing your process!
hi, any tips for aligning the pic over pic?
Those decks are sick!! I'd definitely hang them up in my studio.
worth noting that because you made the screens by hand and, it looks like, just kind of pulled the mesh as tight as you could by hand, the tension is probably significantly looser than store bought screens, which is good because it makes it easier to push the squeegee down and get better contact on the sides where the board is farther from the screen
proud of you. this is a goal that a lot of us aging skaters probably have but never achieve so, good for you. the graphics look really clean, you did a fantastic job.
Really cool project
This was great. I enjoyed the process.
I took a class in highschool in the 90s so I have a bit of old experience. I am interested in screen printing some boards.i am not a fan of heat pressed skate graphics and hope to see more screen printed graphics come back. I would willingly pay more for them.
Really great video bud, very much enjoyed.
amazing. got me inspired to try it myself!
soooo hard, i’d honestly pay for these
This is very cool!
Very Cool! Good Work! Pointer, when you coat the screens with emulsion, turn them the opposite direction you did, so the emulsion dries to the bottom side of the screen (your stencil side print side, rather than your ink side). This will allow for a sharper print.
I'm so impressed, wow! very nice job! that's the inspiration im looking for on YT. thanks for all the tips you shared!
seriously so sick. been thinking of screenprinting my own decks for a while now and this video is inspiring me to do it. great graphics and great work!