Great video I have an old MA020 asf that's been pulled apart but this video has got me motivated to buy the evo brushless board and do the same conversion I have the dws rear end also thanks for sharing
Nice build as always love the suspension parts you have 'sitting in the spare parts bin', i think there is only a handful of us who can say that for such a rare part
Another Awesome video👍🏻, it’s kinda nice you still making video for the kyosho mini-z, even though you have several atomic and GL racing drift cars you still have time to produce video for mini-z, i have a ma020, ma02ve pro and mr03, I am glad to see more topics like this. Happy holiday😀
@@GarageMiniRCUK Ok, I went back and did some research. Correct me if I'm wrong... you transplanted an MA030 board into an MA-020 so as to make an MA-020 EvO Pro special update that can utilize newer radios. So the Kyosho production MA-020 EVO Pro has a different board than the MA-030 Evo correct?
That is a very good video... I enjoyed it... It is exactly what I love about this hobby... I am new to mini class I used to race 1/8 class buggy.. I bought my first mini z ma020 a few days ago and now I have to make this mod to it...what is the lifespan of a mini z brushed motor???. Thank you
@@GarageMiniRCUK ohhh... Really? Lol... I thought I had to replace it after 10 - 20 hours of playtime!! That's good news!! Thank you for the quick reply, I appreciate it
I did this same conversion but with an mr03 evo board. The throttle response and power im gettjng is no where near as much as yours. Im using the kt531p transmitter. Is it possible the mr03 evo board is not suited for load of the awd? Also, can the board still power up if the battery leads are backwards? Any info would be great. Thank you for your time.
@GarageMiniRCUK that is disappointing. I get alot of stutter when i first take off unless i pull the throttle only half way. Ive tried different gearing and resetting the car and transmitter but no luck. I might ditch the evo board then and try one of furiteks esc's with there stand alone servo control unit.
Stutter from the board .I'm sure I had this even woth the standard set up and I had to adjust using ics lead. It's been a while, im going to get back into testing all of these again.
Lol, my evo is a sport LM converted to evo chips and a nb4 radio. I'm loving the ICS, but converting ALL the bodies to the lighting for the evo was a nice 6 hour project...as well as a pile of fried LEDS on my desk. Lol Haven't got my gyro in yet, do you know if the nb4 can at least change gyro gain once it arrives, or is that a syncro touch only thing? (Edit:ah, I see you can! Looking forward to that) Kinda wish the NB4 could do the syncro settings editing stuff, but at least I can change settings in ICS.
At 7:02 : About the potentiometer, I changed in my MA20, the oem (brushed)mainbord with a mainboard brushless of MR03 VE, but the potentiometer are not the same. Now with this VE mainboard MR03 and my MA20 oem potentiometer, my car lost a lot of travel in the stearing. I tryed to use in parall 2 resistance of 33KR, but no change, any idea ? thanks in advance ! and congratulations for your channel !
@@GarageMiniRCUK thank you! I just ordered all the parts and getting ready to build this as well, probably gonna skip the gyro tho i been pretty decent the current set up
Hey my man! Another question for you.. I have the newer MA020 and the max I can run is 94mm. I want 98mm. I know there are the extension blocks, however I dont like how they go on, with having to drill into the chassis. I think that's silly, and its a bad design. Someone said there maybe a way to use a different back end and still get 98mm without using the extension blocks. This is where I am lost. I guess that would entail a DWS setup? If that's true, do you know the parts I would need to buy to make that happen?
Dws from atomic is really cheap. Mircalce Mart if they still do them. Otherwise I'll list parts. You can use the blocks and not drill holes I'm sure I have.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Thank you as always. Interesting about the blocks. Yeah, Id rather just do that and keep things simple (and cheap), but its so strange that on one side, you have to drill a hole in the chassis to attach the block. To me, I would think they should have made it the same on both sides. So, you think you dont need to do the hole?
In the USA and I like the kyosho mini z awd ones but open to options. Searching around and a lot is out of stock or made of metal. Looking for something to stick the ds racing tires on.
Hey man! I followed your vid and made the same ma-020 evo even with the atomic s.a.s! It works really well! Thanks for sharing your build!
This is a video the community NEEDED!!! 😁 amazing stuff brother!
Great video I have an old MA020 asf that's been pulled apart but this video has got me motivated to buy the evo brushless board and do the same conversion I have the dws rear end also thanks for sharing
It's what it's all about....let me know how it goes.
Bugger now gonna have to convert some my older 4WDs.....great vid!!
I know and its not fun ....
Nice build as always love the suspension parts you have 'sitting in the spare parts bin', i think there is only a handful of us who can say that for such a rare part
Haha 😂 I went through a phase of storing parts in case I needed them..... Never ended up using them.... Until a crazy project enters my mind 😁👍🏽
Another Awesome video👍🏻, it’s kinda nice you still making video for the kyosho mini-z, even though you have several atomic and GL racing drift cars you still have time to produce video for mini-z, i have a ma020, ma02ve pro and mr03, I am glad to see more topics like this. Happy holiday😀
Thanks! 👍 more on the way I love all mini rc
Very nice my dear friend i love it . Nice hiro kit and the skyline on 🔥 🔥🔥
Thank you 👍🏽
Very tidy installation! Kyosho should produce this ma020evo chassis for drift since there are so many great 90mm drift appropriate bodies.
Yes agreed 😁😂👍🏽
@@GarageMiniRCUK I thought Kyosho did produce an MA-020 EVO Pro.... or am I misunderstanding?....
@@GarageMiniRCUK Ok, I went back and did some research. Correct me if I'm wrong... you transplanted an MA030 board into an MA-020 so as to make an MA-020 EvO Pro special update that can utilize newer radios.
So the Kyosho production MA-020 EVO Pro has a different board than the MA-030 Evo correct?
They did ma20 ve pro . This only worked with asf controllers .
Yes . Another way to do it is use the furitek board . That would give you more options . I’m doing a video on this in a few months .
I know it's a while ago and slightly of topic but having alot of trouble with my evo connecting to the Noble and hints please
Yes. Check menu. Settings. Freq should be in mini z mode.
Great build mate and loving the shell
Cheers mate. 👍🏽 That switch though! 😂
lol almost forgot it but we'll spotted
That is a very good video... I enjoyed it... It is exactly what I love about this hobby... I am new to mini class I used to race 1/8 class buggy.. I bought my first mini z ma020 a few days ago and now I have to make this mod to it...what is the lifespan of a mini z brushed motor???. Thank you
Thanks for the view... Brushed motors... I've got some mini z from 20 years ago that still work 😁😂
@@GarageMiniRCUK ohhh... Really? Lol... I thought I had to replace it after 10 - 20 hours of playtime!! That's good news!! Thank you for the quick reply, I appreciate it
What all did you solder over to the brushless unit? Thanks.!
I did this so long ago . Ill have to dog put the chassis and have a look . Been meaning to revisit.
Love your info bro.!
I did this same conversion but with an mr03 evo board. The throttle response and power im gettjng is no where near as much as yours. Im using the kt531p transmitter. Is it possible the mr03 evo board is not suited for load of the awd? Also, can the board still power up if the battery leads are backwards? Any info would be great. Thank you for your time.
Good skills bro . It will be the transmitter limiting things.
@GarageMiniRCUK that is disappointing. I get alot of stutter when i first take off unless i pull the throttle only half way. Ive tried different gearing and resetting the car and transmitter but no luck. I might ditch the evo board then and try one of furiteks esc's with there stand alone servo control unit.
Stutter from the board .I'm sure I had this even woth the standard set up and I had to adjust using ics lead. It's been a while, im going to get back into testing all of these again.
Lol, my evo is a sport LM converted to evo chips and a nb4 radio. I'm loving the ICS, but converting ALL the bodies to the lighting for the evo was a nice 6 hour project...as well as a pile of fried LEDS on my desk. Lol
Haven't got my gyro in yet, do you know if the nb4 can at least change gyro gain once it arrives, or is that a syncro touch only thing? (Edit:ah, I see you can! Looking forward to that) Kinda wish the NB4 could do the syncro settings editing stuff, but at least I can change settings in ICS.
Nb4 with evo yes can adjust gyro
At 7:02 : About the potentiometer, I changed in my MA20, the oem (brushed)mainbord with a mainboard brushless of MR03 VE, but the potentiometer are not the same. Now with this VE mainboard MR03 and my MA20 oem potentiometer, my car lost a lot of travel in the stearing. I tryed to use in parall 2 resistance of 33KR, but no change, any idea ? thanks in advance ! and congratulations for your channel !
Which radio are you using ? 🤔
@@GarageMiniRCUK A Futaba T4PM , with staering travel at 120 %.
I never bothered putting the cover back on. How does the gyro increase performance, u notice the difference?
It's more just for helping you drift.once you get really good you don't need it really.
@@GarageMiniRCUK thank you! I just ordered all the parts and getting ready to build this as well, probably gonna skip the gyro tho i been pretty decent the current set up
Could this mini z run a xspeed 120 motor ?
I Think with asf board yes.
That’s fucking awesome 👏 keep up the crazy work!
thanks mate . although the switch nearly finished me off
@@GarageMiniRCUK 😂
Hey my man! Another question for you.. I have the newer MA020 and the max I can run is 94mm. I want 98mm. I know there are the extension blocks, however I dont like how they go on, with having to drill into the chassis. I think that's silly, and its a bad design. Someone said there maybe a way to use a different back end and still get 98mm without using the extension blocks. This is where I am lost. I guess that would entail a DWS setup? If that's true, do you know the parts I would need to buy to make that happen?
Dws from atomic is really cheap. Mircalce Mart if they still do them. Otherwise I'll list parts. You can use the blocks and not drill holes I'm sure I have.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Thank you as always. Interesting about the blocks. Yeah, Id rather just do that and keep things simple (and cheap), but its so strange that on one side, you have to drill a hole in the chassis to attach the block. To me, I would think they should have made it the same on both sides. So, you think you dont need to do the hole?
I didn't. Let me check old vids.
@@GarageMiniRCUK Thank you!
@@GarageMiniRCUK Here was the video I saw today on the 98mm AWD conversion, let me know what you think. ruclips.net/video/89sRV3LfJHg/видео.html
did i just see this correctly...? the ma030 evo board fits the ma020?!
Yes with some tweaking . Still works . Only my soldering is weak link .
Hi. Where’s a good place to buy awd mini z wheels from? Thanks love your videos.
Which country are you in and what type of wheels?
Thanks 👍🏽
In the USA and I like the kyosho mini z awd ones but open to options. Searching around and a lot is out of stock or made of metal. Looking for something to stick the ds racing tires on.
I'll have a look at what's near to you have you tried kenon hobby or amain racing
Both are out of stock and most sites say discontinued. I might look into 3d printed wheels. Thanks for your help.