Thanks a lot for this video. I replaced a stripped wheel stud with the help of your video and brake maintenance mode worked as you instructed - thank you!
I did not, but this should be what you are looking for: W711784-S300 - Washer for the brake line (which is moved out of the way) W719491-S439 - Bolt to mount caliper to knuckle (caliper bracket bolt) W717938-S439 - Caliper bolt www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/brake-upgrades-37-tires-skids-starting-to-think-about-brakes.105304/post-2397745
This is a great video. I really appreciate the maintenance mode instructions. Brakes are the first thing I learned to do as a kid and I've never had a car that needed to be put into brake maintenance mode. Thanks again!
I appreciate that, exact same for me brakes were my entry point for auto maintenance. I am hopeful that in the years ahead this video will educate many people on maintenance mode and save a lot of problems in the process.
Great PSA!!!!!! For those of us that didn't research and went head first........without doing maintenance mode it causes all kinds of lights to illuminate on the dash. No worries though. It's easy to correct. Simply go into maintenance mode than back out. This causes a diagnostic to occur and resets the system. All good. Thanks for sharing. It was a time and money saver after my Christmas tree of a dash lit up after I started it.
I might consider adding one after my warranty has expired. I don't want to give Ford any reason to reject a warranty claim if something should go wrong with my engine. Also, I have read several people on the Bronco 6G forum that have installed one have noted that very very little oil is actually being picked up.
Good question! The answer depends on what type of brake system you have. As discussed in the video, the 2.3L engine uses a vacuum assist and on this system, the fluid can be drained/bled with the brake pedal. However, with the 2.7L engine that uses an electric assist system, and is more complicated. The manual says that it should be done using the Ford diagnostic scan tool.
No, but the process is pretty much the same. Note it is especially important to make sure you have the brakes in maintenance mode when working on the rear brakes, because doing so disengages the electric parking brake.
@@BudgetBronco thank you. I’m doing a big brake upgrade on the front soon so I wanted to see what, if any, have messed with them yet. Appreciate the video, thanks!
@@BudgetBronco I work for Currie Enterprises. My friends at Baer brakes are working on a prototype to test fit. I will be eventually upgrading to one of our 9-inch offroad rearends.
It really is, can save you a lot of trouble and possibly injury too, especially if you have the 2.7 with electronic assist brakes. Thanks for watching!
I did not do the rear in this video, but the process should be similar. Make sure you put the brakes in maintenance mode! That also disables the electric parking brake in the rear.
Content i will be interested I bought a 2dr base bronco with sasquash Evwntualy i will like to upgrade the tire with 37. I will be interested to see the process what need to be done and replace to make it happen .... Thanks
my brother i have a question if you can explain this to me . i have my badlands and am from Qatar. i mean sand dunes when i put the bronco in sand mode and am up on the dunes and when i want to drive down the sharp side of the dunes the brake continue to release it self. i het the ground face first but the hit came under the metal gard . but why it release itself automatically
Great video normally you have to pump the brake pedal few times after changing the brake pads to build up pressure again or else brake pedal drop to the floor on first stop so I’m curious did you do that before reengaging the brake mode ?
I am thinking of ordering a base model bronco however realized that the base model does not have an option for tow capable hitch. I like to mountain bike and need a heavy duty bike rack mounted to the trailer hitch. Any suggestions or can you make a video of how to install an after market hitch…. is that even possible to install on a base model? Maybe 🤔 I should opt for the next model up just for the tow capable hitch which is about $600 add on to the next Big Bend model….appreciate your videos and absolutely like all the videos that you are putting out there especially the door storage rack…I can see how that can be a life saver or rather back saver 😉thanks again 👍🏽
YES! I already have an aftermarket hitch ordered, and I will be making a video on the installation process as soon as it gets here. I will be installing the Curt #13493 you can find it on various sites for under $150. Also there is the Draw Tite DT37GR for about the same price which is a little longer and might be better for a bike rack so that it clears the spare tire. These are especially good options if you only need the hitch for a bike rack and you don't care about the wiring harness. If you do care about wiring, in my future video I will show you how to install that too. My suggestion: do NOT step up to a higher trim level only for the hitch.
I agree. Install after market especially if it is for a bike rack as you don't even need the wiring for that. No advantage to having the hitch installed at factory. No extra coolers or other mods than a hitch and wiring for the bronco. Unlike some vehicles when you get factory tow packages then you get performance tuning and trans coolers.
Thinking of getting the calibers on my bronco painted. Are the calibers on Bronco small like they’re on the jeep? Do you have a estimate on the length of the calibers?
Holding up great! I also covered this in more detail on my Q&A video, here is the specific part of that video: ruclips.net/video/1B4D7K7myZM/видео.html
I assume when you said to "Turn the ignition on", I didnt hear an engine start, I assume you meant to say something slightly more accurate to say that you were turning "Accessory Power" on instead of actually cycling the engine on and holding the throttle increasing the engine RPM's. Cause aIso didnt hear that happen during the maintenance mode turning on and off process. Genuine question for my future reference. I assume this is done without the engine running and just the pedals and accessory power on/off. Great video, thank you for tackling that common service item and making sure if I do them myself or take them somewhere due to circumstances, that I dont overlook this tidbit.
That is correct. More accurately, in steps where I say 'turn ignition on' that means turn accessory power on, not start the engine. Thanks for the comment.
It sounds like Maintenance mode is bypassing the power to the brakes so they will not engage while working on them. If they engage while working on them that is what causes the trouble code. So as another option for some one having trouble putting into maintenance mode, I wonder if you just unplug the battery and plug in when done should work in theory. There would be no power to engage brakes. Great job showing how to do maintainence on the brakes. I leared a few more steps I was not doing that I will incorporate into by brake maintenance . If you replace the bolts like ford says I might save the old ones, paint the head to remind you that they are old set, then keep them in my off-road tool bag for on the trail for emergency bolts.
Disconnecting the battery 'might' work, but in my opinion, why risk it? Using maintenance mode is easy, and we know for certain it works. Maintenance mode also fully retracts the emergency brake, you can the motor/servo spinning when it turns on. Also, really good idea on keeping those bolts for emergency use. Thanks for the comment!
Exactly! To show others how to do it, and especially the part about 'maintenance mode', because I think a lot of people probably don't know about that and it can really cause problems if you skip that step.
Try following the instructions again. If you have FORscan you can also use that to re-engage. Try flipping to switch to turn on and off the emergency parking break with the engine off. If you you hear a 'whirring' sound coming from the rear end for about 1 second, that is the sound of the brakes engaging/disengaging and if that is happening then you know for sure the maintenance mode has been turned off. If not, do not drive it!
Why 111 ft lbs? I wanna meet the guy at Ford that said, “you know, 110 just isn’t good enough. We need to step it up a notch but only one notch, not two.”
HAHA I thought that too but I think there is a better explanation. I assume all of the calculations for proper torque are done in metric format by Ford engineers (which is a lot easier to do) and then the result is converted to ft lbs which in this case would make sense because the 111 ft lbs is equal to a nice round 150 Nm
Good video. and here I was waiting for you to install the slotted rotors to prevent gravel from getting stuck in the brakes. (^_^) I also add Permatex to the front of the rotor hat where the wheel contacts it. Just be careful not to get it on the lug threads.
Permatex is the best, and here in the rust belt is really a must. I just changed the rotors on a friend's '14 Grand Cherokee and it took me 15 minutes of PB Blaster, torch, and sledgehammer pounding to get them off.
@@BudgetBronco I have a massive puller. Spans to the edges of the rotor or drum and then presses on the center of the hub. Get tension on it and then use the dead blow hammer and that usually does the trick. Since I began taking the 30 seconds to apply Permatex (and I use the copper formula instead of aluminum - no reason other than it was what I grabbed off the shelf) the puller has never been used on my own vehicles. And yea, as a New England native, I know all too well what the environment can do to vehicles. Sadly, some fasteners require the blue wrench. Any time I'm replacing suspension parts, I just get new fasteners. Most of the time it just isn't worth the hassle.
A big puller like that would be a nice tool to have. On my '04 Grand Cherokee, I don't even try to loosen undercarriage original fasteners any more, I just cut them off and replace them. Thanks for watching!
@@BudgetBronco So am I. I have multiple patents in some advanced electronics space age stuff. I just know when you take things apart you run the risk of making mistakes, stressing things that could cause problems down the road.
Thanks a lot for this video. I replaced a stripped wheel stud with the help of your video and brake maintenance mode worked as you instructed - thank you!
Awesome! Glad I could help
Around 14:30 you mentioned replacing the caliper bracket bolts. Did you end up replacing those? Trying to find the part#
I did not, but this should be what you are looking for:
W711784-S300 - Washer for the brake line (which is moved out of the way)
W719491-S439 - Bolt to mount caliper to knuckle (caliper bracket bolt)
W717938-S439 - Caliper bolt
www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/brake-upgrades-37-tires-skids-starting-to-think-about-brakes.105304/post-2397745
W717938S439 is for the rear I believe. Not sure what the fronts are or if they are the same...
Front is the same
parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/hardware-and-fasteners-71564-2/disc-brake-caliper-anchor-plate-bolt-bracket-mounting-p-w717938s439
This is a great video. I really appreciate the maintenance mode instructions. Brakes are the first thing I learned to do as a kid and I've never had a car that needed to be put into brake maintenance mode. Thanks again!
I appreciate that, exact same for me brakes were my entry point for auto maintenance. I am hopeful that in the years ahead this video will educate many people on maintenance mode and save a lot of problems in the process.
Very nice of you to go through this process just to make a how to video even though you didn’t need a brake job👍🏼
Thanks, I hope it will help some people in the future! That first step of putting brakes in to service mode is very important.
wow man, just wow. your bronco is so clean! it is exactly what id look for in a bronco
Glad you like it! Thanks for watching
Great PSA!!!!!! For those of us that didn't research and went head first........without doing maintenance mode it causes all kinds of lights to illuminate on the dash. No worries though. It's easy to correct. Simply go into maintenance mode than back out. This causes a diagnostic to occur and resets the system. All good. Thanks for sharing. It was a time and money saver after my Christmas tree of a dash lit up after I started it.
Good to know, thanks for the comment and glad I could help!
Thank you so much! Didn’t know that brake maintenance mode was a thing!!! 🔥🔥🔥
Yup, sure is! On the Ford Ranger too, and probably some other Fords as well. Thanks for watching
What are your thoughts on installing an oil catch can since it’s a direct injection motor?
I might consider adding one after my warranty has expired. I don't want to give Ford any reason to reject a warranty claim if something should go wrong with my engine. Also, I have read several people on the Bronco 6G forum that have installed one have noted that very very little oil is actually being picked up.
May i know, if i want to change the brake oil, just press brake pedal to ejectment or need to use machine to do it? thanks a lot
Good question! The answer depends on what type of brake system you have. As discussed in the video, the 2.3L engine uses a vacuum assist and on this system, the fluid can be drained/bled with the brake pedal. However, with the 2.7L engine that uses an electric assist system, and is more complicated. The manual says that it should be done using the Ford diagnostic scan tool.
@@BudgetBronco thank you so much man !Your video really help me a lot.
Great video, thank you. Subscribed.
Appreciate that! Glad you found it helpful.
Have you done a rear brake video?
No, but the process is pretty much the same. Note it is especially important to make sure you have the brakes in maintenance mode when working on the rear brakes, because doing so disengages the electric parking brake.
@@BudgetBronco thank you. I’m doing a big brake upgrade on the front soon so I wanted to see what, if any, have messed with them yet. Appreciate the video, thanks!
Ahh interesting...what are you putting on?
@@BudgetBronco I work for Currie Enterprises. My friends at Baer brakes are working on a prototype to test fit. I will be eventually upgrading to one of our 9-inch offroad rearends.
Ahhh cool! Some day I would definitely like to put a locking diff in the rear.
I would love to see you install a rear locker
Maybe some day... or possibly a limited slip differential? That is what I have on my Jeep Grand Cherokee and it is great.
Exceptional video! The maintenance mode is a great need to know.
It really is, can save you a lot of trouble and possibly injury too, especially if you have the 2.7 with electronic assist brakes. Thanks for watching!
Watched the vid. Great content for the front brakes. Did I miss the part part about the rear brakes?
I did not do the rear in this video, but the process should be similar. Make sure you put the brakes in maintenance mode! That also disables the electric parking brake in the rear.
Content i will be interested
I bought a 2dr base bronco with sasquash Evwntualy i will like to upgrade the tire with 37. I will be interested to see the process what need to be done and replace to make it happen ....
Thanks
Check out bronco6g.com, you will find a lot of people that have upgraded from 35" tires to 37" tires. Thanks for watching!
great video and detail- thankyou
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
my brother i have a question if you can explain this to me .
i have my badlands and am from Qatar. i mean sand dunes when i put the bronco in sand mode and am up on the dunes and when i want to drive down the sharp side of the dunes the brake continue to release it self. i het the ground face first but the hit came under the metal gard . but why it release itself automatically
Sorry, I do not understand your question
Great video normally you have to pump the brake pedal few times after changing the brake pads to build up pressure again or else brake pedal drop to the floor on first stop so I’m curious did you do that before reengaging the brake mode ?
Re-engage first!
Thank you for the answer I was working on front brake with 1.5L turbo engine vacuum type but like you said for rear brake engage to maintenance mode
Is that same as a maverick maintenance mode?
It is the same as Ranger for sure, but I am not sure about Maverick. Likely yes, but do some research here: www.mavericktruckclub.com/
Tnks for the vid man ❤
You are welcome! Thanks for watching
I am thinking of ordering a base model bronco however realized that the base model does not have an option for tow capable hitch.
I like to mountain bike and need a heavy duty bike rack mounted to the trailer hitch.
Any suggestions or can you make a video of how to install an after market hitch…. is that even possible to install on a base model?
Maybe 🤔 I should opt for the next model up just for the tow capable hitch which is about $600 add on to the next Big Bend model….appreciate your videos and absolutely like all the videos that you are putting out there especially the door storage rack…I can see how that can be a life saver or rather back saver 😉thanks again 👍🏽
YES! I already have an aftermarket hitch ordered, and I will be making a video on the installation process as soon as it gets here. I will be installing the Curt #13493 you can find it on various sites for under $150. Also there is the Draw Tite DT37GR for about the same price which is a little longer and might be better for a bike rack so that it clears the spare tire. These are especially good options if you only need the hitch for a bike rack and you don't care about the wiring harness. If you do care about wiring, in my future video I will show you how to install that too. My suggestion: do NOT step up to a higher trim level only for the hitch.
I agree. Install after market especially if it is for a bike rack as you don't even need the wiring for that. No advantage to having the hitch installed at factory. No extra coolers or other mods than a hitch and wiring for the bronco. Unlike some vehicles when you get factory tow packages then you get performance tuning and trans coolers.
I plan to replace the rear bumper so I was planning on having the reciever hitch built into the new bumper.
Thinking of getting the calibers on my bronco painted. Are the calibers on Bronco small like they’re on the jeep?
Do you have a estimate on the length of the calibers?
Very nice Sir-Awesome!!
Thanks for watching!
love those white rims
Thanks, glad you like them!
How is the paint job on the wheels holding up?
Holding up great! I also covered this in more detail on my Q&A video, here is the specific part of that video: ruclips.net/video/1B4D7K7myZM/видео.html
Love it that awsome video
Glad you enjoyed it
I assume when you said to "Turn the ignition on", I didnt hear an engine start, I assume you meant to say something slightly more accurate to say that you were turning "Accessory Power" on instead of actually cycling the engine on and holding the throttle increasing the engine RPM's. Cause aIso didnt hear that happen during the maintenance mode turning on and off process. Genuine question for my future reference. I assume this is done without the engine running and just the pedals and accessory power on/off. Great video, thank you for tackling that common service item and making sure if I do them myself or take them somewhere due to circumstances, that I dont overlook this tidbit.
That is correct. More accurately, in steps where I say 'turn ignition on' that means turn accessory power on, not start the engine. Thanks for the comment.
It sounds like Maintenance mode is bypassing the power to the brakes so they will not engage while working on them. If they engage while working on them that is what causes the trouble code. So as another option for some one having trouble putting into maintenance mode, I wonder if you just unplug the battery and plug in when done should work in theory. There would be no power to engage brakes. Great job showing how to do maintainence on the brakes. I leared a few more steps I was not doing that I will incorporate into by brake maintenance . If you replace the bolts like ford says I might save the old ones, paint the head to remind you that they are old set, then keep them in my off-road tool bag for on the trail for emergency bolts.
Disconnecting the battery 'might' work, but in my opinion, why risk it? Using maintenance mode is easy, and we know for certain it works. Maintenance mode also fully retracts the emergency brake, you can the motor/servo spinning when it turns on. Also, really good idea on keeping those bolts for emergency use. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks
You are welcome!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching glad you found it helpful
Thank you sir appreciate 🙏
My pleasure happy to help, thanks for watching
Why are you taking the brakes off? Just to show us how for later? Didn’t look like you changed anything
Exactly! To show others how to do it, and especially the part about 'maintenance mode', because I think a lot of people probably don't know about that and it can really cause problems if you skip that step.
Following this video, my Brake mode wouldn't disengage, and now I can't tell if it
's engaged or not, and now I have warning lights on my dash
Try following the instructions again. If you have FORscan you can also use that to re-engage. Try flipping to switch to turn on and off the emergency parking break with the engine off. If you you hear a 'whirring' sound coming from the rear end for about 1 second, that is the sound of the brakes engaging/disengaging and if that is happening then you know for sure the maintenance mode has been turned off. If not, do not drive it!
One upgrade item you should put on your list are one piece lugnuts. The Ford two piece lugnuts (stainless cover) are rubbish.
Those would be nice, I agree the stock ones are two piece and they will eventually fail. Putting that on my Christmas list!
Why 111 ft lbs? I wanna meet the guy at Ford that said, “you know, 110 just isn’t good enough. We need to step it up a notch but only one notch, not two.”
HAHA I thought that too but I think there is a better explanation. I assume all of the calculations for proper torque are done in metric format by Ford engineers (which is a lot easier to do) and then the result is converted to ft lbs which in this case would make sense because the 111 ft lbs is equal to a nice round 150 Nm
Good video. and here I was waiting for you to install the slotted rotors to prevent gravel from getting stuck in the brakes. (^_^)
I also add Permatex to the front of the rotor hat where the wheel contacts it. Just be careful not to get it on the lug threads.
Permatex is the best, and here in the rust belt is really a must. I just changed the rotors on a friend's '14 Grand Cherokee and it took me 15 minutes of PB Blaster, torch, and sledgehammer pounding to get them off.
@@BudgetBronco I have a massive puller. Spans to the edges of the rotor or drum and then presses on the center of the hub. Get tension on it and then use the dead blow hammer and that usually does the trick. Since I began taking the 30 seconds to apply Permatex (and I use the copper formula instead of aluminum - no reason other than it was what I grabbed off the shelf) the puller has never been used on my own vehicles.
And yea, as a New England native, I know all too well what the environment can do to vehicles. Sadly, some fasteners require the blue wrench. Any time I'm replacing suspension parts, I just get new fasteners. Most of the time it just isn't worth the hassle.
A big puller like that would be a nice tool to have. On my '04 Grand Cherokee, I don't even try to loosen undercarriage original fasteners any more, I just cut them off and replace them. Thanks for watching!
How many miles did you replace them? Also why replace the rotor? Thank you great video and I am about to do mine at 46,000 miles
Right angle Impact wrench would have made that easier. 😜 lol
HAHA I know...I was thinking the same thing when I was taking those bolts off. I need to invest in one of those. Thanks for watching!
I probably will never take apart my brand new brake and rotor assembly. Never fix things that aren't broke!
That's fair, but I'm an engineer and have been taking working things apart and putting them back together since I was like 6 years old.
@@BudgetBronco So am I. I have multiple patents in some advanced electronics space age stuff. I just know when you take things apart you run the risk of making mistakes, stressing things that could cause problems down the road.
Great video. Now show us how to bleed the brakes on a 2.7 using a laptop 🫣
Ya sorry to say the 2.7 is a lot more complicated since it has electronic brake boost