Fix your Mini bike Carb - bogging, cutting out etc
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2011
- If you are having trouble with your mini bike/quad whereby its difficult to start, bogging down, cutting out or overflowing then this video could help you get it running sweet.
Of course i would check firstly that there is compression, (the pull start should be difficult to pull slowly) and that there is spark. Do that by removing the spark and with it still connected to the HT lead, Place it against the cylinder and pull the starter. You should get a spark arcing across.
Carbs are pretty much the most common of all problems on these mini 47 and 49 cc engines and that can be anything from overflowing, which is caused when the float gets stuck in the bottom of the bowl or when the cut of valve gets stuck open too, to cutting out and bogging down, This is usually a blockage of the main jet. It is very important to keep the jet clean and to make sure you can see clearly through it as seen in the video. if you get dirt in here then less fuel is able to get through when on open throttle and the bike is starved, causing it to cut out or loose revs.
make sure to get the 2 stroke ratio to fuel right too. A lot of the blockage problems are generally caused by having too much 2 stroke mixed in and it turns gooey after a while. 
Авто/Мото
Your very welcome mate, glad to help you out. Just make sure the bearing isnt damaged in the bell housing from the chain being too tight. that can also be a cause of the clutch failing so have a look at that before fitting any new parts. :)
Thank u brother. Im no mechanic but i bought my daughters a quad for their christmas and it worked for one day. So I've spent at least two weeks learning everything i need to know about these mini quads to make sure i get it working for them! I'm certain my fuel was contaminated. Quad starts and cuts out in less than 10 seconds so its gotta be carb. Replacing inline fuel filter in the morning, and spark plug has already been replaced. So if replacing fuel filter does not work, my next step is cleaning the carb. You have made this easy for me to learn, and may just have saved my ass and handed my daughters a fun day out tomorrow. Much appreciated 🧡
Hey buddy. Thanks a lot. I'm glad to help you out. Hopefully all goes well with it and you get to take it out for some fun! 🙂
@@CptMishMashVonRandom hey mate. Any chance u can give me some advice? I removed the carb and it was clean. The jet however had something in it and i blew it out. I put the carb back together and its still not working mate. I loosened the throttle from the carb by hand and it popped up nicely. However, i could not screw it back in properly. So my questions are:
- Can this affect the quad not starting?
- Is there any specific way to have this screw in properly? It seems like its threaded because any time i try to tighten by hand it just pops off. The pin of the throttle definitely goes into the hole/port inside of it ok, but still can't seem to tighten it on. I never played with it much to actually thread it. It came off easily by hand.
Thanks bud
@@jsmith3966did you figure it out
@@jsmith3966 replace your ignition coil next
Thanks Man, i’m currently working on a 50cc pocket bike, and there is gas overflowing everywhere, this is very simple and helps a lot thanks man
Cheers man. I hope you get it sorted. 👌
thanks for the info in the video it has helped me get my mini bike starting and running.
Delighted to help, mate. Don't forget to give us a thumbs up! :D
this pretty much fixed all my problems on my 4 year old chinese dirtbike (which is still suprsingly running)
thanks my 80cc motorized bike kit build was bogging down then dying so i just opened the carb cleaned it all then this video helped me identify some problems for one there was some rubberlike tiny chunk in my mainjet and my float was faced the wrong way havent tried giving it a go scince correcting theses but im feeling very optimistic thanks
Cool! I love finding little gems like this. very satisfying when you get them running. :)
Thanks mate, i know it looks scary but its actually pretty easy, I've had my 4 and 9 year olds help out and they know how it goes together. :)
Thanks Cpt MishMash, this really helped today as I put together a project pocket bike for my kid. Cheers!
+Rusotz Great to hear, mate!
I don't often hear back from those who found it useful so it's good to know it's helping someone get back up and running. Don't forget to drop us a Like & Subscribe! :D
Video was very simple and to the point. nicely done. thank you.
Really glad to help, mate. don't forget to drop me a like & Subscribe! Makes it even easier for others to find the video. :D
Give me a shout if you have any more issues. :)
i have a small quad that has the same carb and i cleaned it well replaced gas lines aswell as fuel filter and when i start it it will run but lile 3min later it will die out and turn off. sometimes it will still start sometimes it wont. Thanks for ur time :) (BTW GR8 VIDEO)
Hi, The fuel tap work by allowing fuel through a small "half circle" shaped channel in the underside of the tap itself. When you turn it off the channel no longer lines up with the inlet and exit for the fuel, so no fuel gets through. Its assembled by first placing the rubber seal into the housing, then the spring washer, then the tap, then flat "U" shaped washer and then finally the retaining plate. You'll feel slight resistance when its fitted correctly. :)
This video is brilliant little bike is running sweetly now, only problem I had was getting carb on and off bike.😤 the fixing screws are Phillips and it was hard work getting access. In the future I'll replace them with hexagon head bolts.
Yup, I did exactly that. It's a lot easier to access with hex bolts.
Glad you got it up and running! 👍
Thanks for the tips ,now I can raise hell on my ancient mini Moto in this lockdown
good old covid days
showing my 12 year old daughter this as she needs to know how to take them apart useful info thanks :)
paul rockett Hey, Glad to help. I also had my 9 year old (at the time) strip and rebuild them with me. It's really quite easy to work on and is something you might need to do fairly regularly so definitely worth knowing.
Don't forget to drop a Like & Subscribe! :)
only if all the chicks dads in school made em do that
only if all the chicks dads in school made em do that
only if all the chicks dads in school made em do that
Hi, you need to fully extend the pull cord, then with it all the way out, you rotate the spring loaded disc on the inside of the pullstart mechanism until the spring gets nice and tight. then you allow it to retract the pull cord which is still fully extended at this point. It will rewind the cord and you'll be back in business. :)
Exactly the same problem as I had, follow your rev cable down to your engine and pull the full thing out, you can see a needle give it a clean in petrol and it no longer overflows :) Just make sure you push it all the way down when tightening.
Thanks! Short and directly to the point. Way to put the YOU back in to RUclips...
Yes the float level is exactly what affects the drip from the over flow. It can happen for a couple of reasons.
1. the valve that the float is opening and closing isnt sealing properly when closed.
2.The float is getting stuck and isnt able to close the valve as it should.
take the float out and inspect it for any rough edges, also check the valve its operating to make sure there nothing blocking it, and finally check the arm that the float is moving to open and close the valve. :)
I know the one your talking about, check the fuel tap and the cut off valve in the carb, the bit that the float opens and closes when the bowl fills up. :)
If its cutting out, try bending the arms ever so slightly upwards towards the top of the carb and that will allow the bowl to fill to a higher level. There's also the possibility that the float may just have some rough edges on it and is catching on the inside of the bowl. This is quite common and has the same symptoms you are having.
The float levels does sound like a good start but it might also be a restriction in the jet's that's allowing little fuel through on lower rpm. this of course isn't a problem at higher rpm since their is more vacuum. I'd try that and check out the float levels and see if it helps. Generally, when I have problems with these carbs I start by doing a thorough clean in. Finding the problem after that is a lot easier.
Your welcome mate, Glad you got it going again. :D
Hi, You do so by removing the little circlip on it and move it up or down a notch. it can a trial and error affair until you get it on the sweet spot.
However, if the bike used to run perfectly then id be inclined to say that isn't the problem but i dont know whether your bike ever ran better than right now?. If it used to run good then its more likely to be a dirty jet, the long thin brass coloured cylinder that you see being removed from the carb in the video. Hope that helps. :)
Yeah it could be indeed. If theres any crap in there, or even if the seal is broken down it can cause an obstruction that prevents the engine from properly fueling on throttle. It can often seem perfectly alright on idle too.
@exoticg9 Your very welcome, hope your up and running now. :)
Hi, you'll see lots of people have posted the same question. Its likely that the overflow jet is clogged or the float is stuck, it can have sharp edges on it from manufacture and causes the float to get snagged inside the bowl. :)
Ok thanks for advice once cleaned carb as it does need a clean and new spark will let you know
@zHardcoreCinema lol, you dont have to open everything, just unscrew the cap and pull out the rev cable from the carb. The needle is on the end of it and the washer i was referring to is a sort of retaining circlip that holds the needle in its position. Theres a 4-5 different poistions you can set it to. you'll understand as soon as ya see it. :)
Great video, extremely helpful thank you.
your videos are so helpful please make more!
Hey, Thanks a lot mate. I'm really glad you find them helpful. :)
@@CptMishMashVonRandom why haven't you made more? did you get rid of your 49cc ???
The substance on the screw is actually used in order to prevent the screw from coming loose and allowing the idle to get messed up. To remove the carb you first need to take off the filter, then the filter adapter as its covering the bolts that secure the carb to the inlet manifold. Its quite simple really.
thanks man, I don't know a lot about bikes but this helped a lot!
Cool!, Glad to help mate!
I'd really appreciate a like and share if you find it useful. :)
What really the the problem about my quadbike 150cc ?... easy to start and can go as normal, but when it is in high trottle the engine lost power instead of getting more power for a maximum pull, what
Thanks this should help out. What do you use to clean out the carb though?
Just start by giving the carb a good cleaning and make sure the jets are free of dirt. then when reassembling it, make sure you tighten it down enough to give a good air seal between the carb and the inlet. If you are still having problems at that point then I would adjust the mixture needle on the end of the throttle cable in slight increments until you get it at its sweet spot. Also, make sure the idle screw isn't turned down too low. Hope that helps and if you need any more info, shout. :)
Helpful video and good note in description box
Thanks. I'm glad you found it useful. 👍
thanks just cleaned my Baja warrior mini bike carb thanks for the how to vid
Your welcome, Glad it got you sorted. :)
yeah you can do that. its handy to use a piece of wire to get into all the tight spots and channels too though.
Just purchased a non running mini moto for £35 advertised as a non runner, noticed a few problems with the carb already, ordered a new fuel tap for £2.99 I have spark and compression. Hopefully I'll have ot running by the weekend! Will be a bargain of an investment :)
@SpyKid313 Where did the carb leak from? the tap joint or from the over flow tube?
you probably tightened the fuel tap down too much on one side and there's a gap left. you need to tighten them evenly for a good seal.
@zHardcoreCinema Have you tried adjusting the position of the carb needle? its on the end of the rev cable that you will have inserted. pull out the rev cable and have a look at the needle on the end. you can remove it from the carb slide and move its retaining washer up or down, depending on where its located at the moment. :)
Hello. very help full video. Is a 4 stroke carb the same as a 2 stroke? thanks alot
@23cross remove your spark plug and drop some 2 stroke down the hole, leave it a few mins and then try kick it without the spark plug. it'll probably be a bit stubborn at first but it'll turn over and then just stick the plug back in and see if it'll start. :)
@SpyKid313 A 25-1 ratio if the engine is new, you can go 40-1 on well run engines.
@zHardcoreCinema Sounds like you just have an adjustment issue now. I'd replace the washer just so you know its reliable. they can be bought in hardware shops etc. its just a circlip.
leave the choke off and do some adjustments to the position of the needle, your on the right track. :)
VERY HELPFULL !! TANKS FOR POSTING !
Turn the idle screw clockwise to screw it in and to lift the revs. turn it loads and see if it gets better. once ya get it to run reliably then you can gradually roll it back to get it sitting and a lower steady idle. regarding the cable, its not the cable you adjust, its the carb shuttle, the cylinder that moves up and down as you turn the throttle cable. theres a needle through the centre of this and by adjusting the position of the needle, the mixture is adjusted. :)
@TheMiguel0205 Could be a few things really. does it pull at all? will it pull easily with the spark plug removed?
@TheMiguel0205 It sounds like it could be seized. take off the spark plug and see if it'll pull then. you can drop some 2 stroke oil down through the spark plug hole to make things a little easier. You should also remove the pull start and make sure nothing is stuck in there thats preventing you from pulling it. :)
@zHardcoreCinema haha, glad your sorted mate, im happy to help. luckily for you theres a lot less that gives problems on those 110cc bikes. :)
Start by cleaning and inspecting all the parts, then reassemble as shown in the video. If it still happens then try adjusting the mixture in slight increments by moving the circlip up or down and testing again. :)
The coil is the cable part that attaches to the spark plug. The pickup is the end of that coil where it meets the flywheel.
It'll leak a small amount. before you remove the carb, undo the fuel line to it and plug it with a bolt, or keep it pinched if you have a locking pliers.
Once you have the fuel line off, the only fuel that can leak is the little bit thats left in the bowl. :)
@sniperpr0100 Theres a screw in the bottom of the carb bowl there with a red washer on it. Remove it and the fuel will al drain out. stick in proper fuel and drop a little bit of fresh fuel into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. then try start it again and it should be fine.
@tiganhonda yea, i was thinking it might be to do with compression as the exhaust has cracked and almost snapped in half..but i plugged that up good so that shouldnt be the problem..ill just have to buy one the the head kits when i get the spare money
Pull the fuel line where it goes into the fuel tap and see if it will flow freely from there. If it does then you'll know the tap is the problem. If it doesn't then its either the filter or even dirt in the line from the tank. The taps are common causes of these problems when the rubber seal inside them gets torn or unseated. You can strip the tap to inspect the seal quite easily.
What tuning do you recommend for it mine smokes loads and it has to high revs? Any ideas and the clutch case cog is snapped off to
@SpyKid313 Are you getting spark? have you tried dropping a small amount of fuel down into the spark plug hole and see if it fires then?
First, you make sure there are no sharp edges that are causing it to get stuck. if there are, smooth them with sandpaper.
Then you check the valve is opening and closing properly and is clean. That's the tiny little piece with a point on it that gets pushed in and out by the brass lever arm.
If both of those are ok then your problem is due to the brass arm itself. Its probably miss shaped and needs a little adjustment so the float actually lifts it enough to cut off the fuel. :)
@MrsBatmansMom you shouldnt need to adjust the forks, not unless they have been bent or something. its either going to be the cut off valve, which is the little needle like pin that attaches to the fork or it'll be the float which sometimes can have sharp bits of plastic around the edges that catch on the sides of the carb bowl. make sure to fit the float the right way around too. :)
@tiganhonda yea, that was the first thing i did before checking the carb was to see if it had spark, it does but it wont fire..ill try dropping fuel in through there but i dont think it will do much different than what ive already tried, thanks for your advice anyway
That's what I would start with, yes. If that doesn't sort it then it will make finding the problem easier anyway.
I know it isn't the same carb but hopefully you can help. I recently bought a motor bike kit and it came with a "new" CNS EPA carb yet the instructions/owners guide only deals with an older model without a choke etc. This is my first time to every construct or deal with a project with a motor, etc but did manage to get it all working and running nicely. The only problem is that a tube apparently called the overflow valve is leaking slowly when I ride. I have been reading tons of forums to better
Jan černe It could be the idle screw setting. It might be too tight. :)
Its an over flow tube mate, it should hang down and go through the little hole at the bottom of the carb bowl so its free to drain fuel out if the bowl gets overflowed.
thanks for the help but one thing how do u adjust the needle your talking about?
Yeah don't worry about the threads on the idle screw. its fine.
Check out the friction material on the clutch itself and see if its worn out, its underneath that clutch bell and will have 3 mating surfaces.
Your main jet is probably clogged, or you could have a fuel blockage that is limiting the flow to the bowl. I'd start by removing the bowl and making sure the main jet is clean (thats the gold part that I am looking through in the video). Then when thats clean, test the flow of fuel by turning on the tap while the bowl is still off the carb. It should start to flow out steadily, but if it doesnt then you could have a blockage in the filter, the tap or in the valve inside the carb.
thanks...I will try to look into that...if the clutch was sticking...would the sprocket free up as soon as you kill the engine? thanks
Have you checked the filter is allowing fuel through alright? have you tried cleaning out the main jet?
make sure the plug is the same type as the one that came with the bike. you can check the spark by removing the plug and plugging the coil back onto it. pull start the bike while touching the end of the plug off the metal of the engine. you'll see the spark jumping. do not touch the metal though, hold it by the rubber.
I would definitely clean the carb though, if the bike is that old then its probably gonna have loads of dirt in there. give it a good cleaning and it should run like clockwork. :)
@tiganhonda true, but here it would cost about more, its about 60-80 bux for just the head kit, 75 for a new exhaust and 50 for just a carb..quite expensive
I'd hazard a guess that your float is stuck in the bottom position and not cutting off the fuel. Try opening the tap and lightly tap the bottom of the carb to see if it will stop flowing. Ideally I would take the bowl off and give it a clean and make sure there are no sharp edges or anything on the float that would cause it to snag. Check the cut off valve is clean and clear too. :)
If its been left sitting then I would be almost certain that the carb is gunked up with the fuel/2stroke mixture. It starts to separate and block up the carb with a mayo'like gunk. This is why it is good practice to turn off the fuel tap before cutting the engine off. It wastes up the surplus fuel in the carb so its not left to go bad and gunk up the carb. :)
Hi, there's a little rubber seal inside the taps and they can tear from age and cause this leaking. You can buy the little rubber piece or just replace the entire tap for as little money. :)
I don't imagine both problems are related. The chain might be too tight, causing it to bind up when you roll it. Try moving the wheel slightly forward. As far as the idling goes. are you running 2stroke in the fuel? if so, what mixture? Have you ever cleaned the carb?
If you are not getting spark and you know its a good plug then you probably need a new coil. This is the wire piece that connects onto the spark plug. It might just need to be adjusted though. take off the pull start cover and have a look at the coil to see if its sitting nicely against the flywheel. you can adjust them to get a better magnetic connection. it'll be much clearer when you look at it. :)
@666TECHNO666 If it doesnt start with fuel through the spark plug hole and it does have spark, then you could be looking at lack of compression. In this case you'll need to rebuild the top end. its cheap enough to get a rebuild kit consisting of a new cylinder, piston, rings and gudgeon pin. :)
My 1984 Honda spree starts right up and idle seems good, but when I give it gas especially going up a small hill the motor bogs down and stops. I tore apart the whole carb and cleaned it with carb cleaner. drained gas tank and filled it with high octane. cleaned spark plug and gap is correct. I was told i might have a gasket leaking air some where? any sugestions?
thanks for the vid, i have a little 50cc pocketbike that wont start, i took the float chamber off and cleaned the thoroughly and same with the fuel tap. it still doesnt want to start, but when i directly squirt fuel mix straight through from where the air filter goes it starts up and runs for a bit..any idea what the problem might be??
@stanMADD97 Hi,
Sounds like your float is sticking or your cut off valve which is connected to the float could be durty or blocked. This prevents the float from being able to shut off the fuel when the bowl is full. It can also be the cut off levers arm which is the brass coloured C shaped piece made from thin metal. if its shaped incorrectly then it'll sometimes prevent the cut off from operating. compare yours to the one in the video. :)
Yeap that was the problem, i had to change the tap from an old carb i had.Thanks
I would try adjusting the mixture needle to see how it runs then. Its on the end of the throttle cable. :)
I have this carb on my go kart. it starts up fine but when I pull the throttle it either just cuts out or revs but doesnt drive. do you think a good clean of the whole carborator would fix it?
my 50cc mini moto is just constantly dripping fuel and takes ages to start then when i do finally get it going as soon as i give it throttle it dies in power or cuts out,would it be a fuel mixture problem or is it a gasket/seal prob ... im stumped and its annoying .. but ive read some of the previous comments and ill try some of your suggestions and get back to you.
Hi, just watched you video. I'm having a tough time with my carb like in this video. I have bought new ones, cleaned the old ones as the video says. Still the same problem. Non Responsive when I hit the throttle. I would have to turn the adjustment screw way in to get it to respond without cutting off. I then took and moved my needle to the upmost position and tired that. Helped but still seems sluggish uphills, etc. Any other adjustments or advice?
You can clean it with petrol or WD40, an old tooth brush and some wire. I use the wire for clearing stubborn dirt from inside the jets. :)
@HBomb101273 Hi, Thats happening because your float is stuck and isnt cutting off the fuel supply when the carb is full. Its the part at 3:30 in the video, a white plastic ring float. check that out and make sure the bowl is clean.
@23cross ah right. so you have a different engine all together. look on the side of it for a serial number and you'll be able to find a carb for it with that info. :)
Oh right, didn't realise it was ridge side down for the float, thanks!
Have you adjusted the mixture to see if that helps?
you have good compression mate. id drop a little 2 stroke oil down through the plug hole and let it set a while. then run the engine on a slightly heavy mixture of mabe 20/1 or 25/1 petrol and oil. were you running it without premixing the fuel by any chance?
Its only in very rare circumstances that you'd need a new carb mate, almost always its just in need of a cleaning/adjusting. :)
I've done that part but I was wondering if no cap or something went on the side you can see the choke cuz can't dirt get in from there
I have a yamaha 2 stroke outboard. same thing aplies to all 2s carbs I assume. The problem I am having is that it takes about 4 or 5 pulls to start. once I get it going I feather it to keep it going. Once I open throttle its okay for about 30 seconds or so and when I tap off it dies.... any ideas? Thought it may be float levels or reeds, not sure if its flooded or dry...
Just screw the idle screw in enough for the bike to run and then adjust it when warm to idle nicely without cutting out. its pretty simple really. :)
Ebay is your best friend when it comes to minimoto parts mate. it'll be pretty cheap too. :)
Alright mate, a got the bairns a little 50 renegade quad, it has the same carb on as the one in this vid. It’s brand new and has just about been ran in, after about 15 mins of riding it’s starts to lose power and ends up going to clap out, but when a turn it off and leave it for a couple mins and start it back up the powers there again? What ya reckon that is mate? Cos if it was the jets blocked it wouldn’t fire up again would it? It’s the correct mixture of 2 stroke aswell