1964 TR4 Engine rebuild - part 3 - crank and liners
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- Опубликовано: 29 дек 2016
- In this video I install the rear crankshaft seal conversion kit (one that doesn't require machinig) and the crank itself with the main bearings and caps. I testfit the liners, measure and adjust the protrusion and install the liners permanently.
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My dad and I rebuilt a TR-4 engine in a Morgan when I was a kid. Sure wish we had this video back then!
It is easy nowadays. There is info all over the internet. There is another issue now, there are too many opinions and you have to decide which one to go with :)
Elin, your english and descriptions are perfect, than you for sharing, very informative, you have given me the confidence to tackle the oil leaks on my 4a
2:00. My first car was a '64 TR-4 and I remember my friends telling me that this was called an oil slinger. The oil slinger was designed to throw the oil back into the engine as it leaked out. And one wonders why British cars have a reputation for leaking oil! As I recall, the other end of the crank used what's called a rope seal which was nothing but a piece of rope that would absorb the oil and when it was fully saturated, it would begin leaking as well. This explains why the front suspensions on British cars never rust. The rest of the car? That's another story.
I am new to your channel and I am inspired! Your simple tips and ways of working (give it a knee, hip, leg, whatever...) and sense of humour are great. Keep it up! I hope your boss appreciates your efforts!
Very good video. If I still had mine, I would bring it to you.
My Dad raced TRs locally in the 60's. he told me once that he used the duntov 327 small block Chevrolet pistons and rods.
I wish I had been able to see this when I did my Vanguard:)
Nicely done. Great job and attention to detail.
Thank you! I am a newbie, so I have no choice, but to go with what the book says. And this is the Boss's car - can I not pay attention to the details LOL! Happy New Year, Jim!
Happy, Healthy and Blessed New Year to you and your family as well. I am enjoying you video's so keep them coming. Watching build the TR4 engine brings back a lot of memories. I had just a week or so to rebuild mine because I was on my honeymoon at home in Houston but I was headed back to Vietnam for another tour in 1966.
Excellent, informative video, thank you for making it.
Maybe I misunderstood something, but when you installed the first half (top of engine) of the blue anodized rear main seal holder the drain hole was clearly visible. Wasn't that supposed to point down into the crankcase?
well done that man...happy new year
Happy New Year!
Nice work again!
Thanks!
Nice filming again, i enjoyed very well! Fortunetly i dont need to do this on my Spitfire, but my bodywork causes some other challenges...
Thanks, Balazs! I hate to say it, but I was expecting you to find issues with the body. I could tell from your video that someone fixed the car for selling purposes. I am sure you will turn it into a beautiful show car. Looking forward to your next video! Happy New Year!
Happy New Year.
Happy New Year, Keith!
Elin - two questions... what is the make of the gasket sealant you use? And, (2), what make of crank seal are you using - the blue anodised one? Many thanks if you get the chance to answer this. And, well done again for a great instructional video... Michael
When I took the studs out I place tape and marked them so it's easier to put them back again
Great Video Elin! I am rebuilding my TR3 and must have watched this a half a dozen times! I have a question for you. Why do you cut the rear main bearing felt strips into one inch pieces instead of using one big piece? Is that because it would be two hard to get the whole strip down into the grove? Thanks again.
In the good old days when we rebuilt these Vanguard / TR engines we just turned each liner through 180 degrees and reassembled then charged the customer full price for new liners and pistons customers were always happy with the result we were happy cos we made dosh with no new parts !! Crafty eh !
Great vdeo Elin, but how did you manage to push the liners out from the block?
Hi Elin not sure if you look back on these comments any more but as many others have mentioned I also have watched your videos repeatedly as I am about to start the rebuild of my engine.
Just one question to either yourself or to anyone who has followed the same path. I noticed you did not use a mandrel to align the rear seal which I have seen mentioned on some other sites. I do not have such a mandrel and am hoping to do as you did is it ok to it without the mandrel because the vitron seal compensates for any potential slight misalignment?
Ta Mark
Hi Mark, I don’t think the mandrel is required for this seal. I it is not as critical as for the original scroll sill. As you suggested the rubber seal compensates for any little imperfections.
@@RustyBeauties t
That's just what I was hoping to hear. Thanks for the reply and all of the informative information.
I enjoyed that Elin. Do you know if that was the Christian Marx style seal for the crank?
Yes, it is the Christian Marx style. I got it from British Parts Northwest www.bpnorthwest.com/rear-seal-conversion-kit-uprated-tr3-to-tr4a.html
The actual seal is Viton shaft - high performance seal, which apparently is a high end seal, even though it doesn't say anything to me. We will see how long is it going to last.
THANKS, Cheftush,.!.! I looked for this answer here.! I'm ready to rebuild my '65 TR4 motor. And I WANT this seal.! WOW. Thank You Elin.!
Great Video Elin! I am rebuilding my TR3 and must have watched this a half a dozen times! I have a question for you. Why do you cut the rear main bearing felt strips into one inch pieces instead of using one big piece? Is that because it would be two hard to get the whole strip down into the grove? Thanks again.
Great Video Elin! I am rebuilding my TR3 and must have watched this a half a dozen times! I have a question for you. Why do you cut the rear main bearing felt strips into one inch pieces instead of using one big piece? Is that because it would be two hard to get the whole strip down into the grove? Thanks again.