Yep, I rebuilt mine TR4 engine and thought I had a good handle on it but didn't pay attention to the ring placement on the pistons and drove thru the middle of Houston leaving a smoking screen behind me.
I have owned my TR6 for 30 years and and oil pressure has always been a concern and mystery... I have never seen or understood how the (simple) oil pump worked until now! Great videos! Keep them coming.
It is simple, but genius. It is amazing how they made 4 leafs spin into 5 channels with .004" clearance. I really admire the engineers from that time. That was invented with no computers or even calculators.....
Elin. Here is a link to a TR3 service manual. Page 119 mentions using Wellseal for the top of the block and sleeves before putting on the gasket. I went whole hog and did both sides on my Ferguson tractor. :-)
I read the manual too, but when it was written they weren't using copper gaskets and since mine was copper I was debating whether I should follow the manual or not. So I looked it up in internet and there were different opinions, but it lloked like the ratio was 50/50 so I just decided to put it dry.
hello i am loving the videos and always waiting for new ones to come up on youtube. i am loving all the explainatios you give and tricks it is one thing to read the manual and another r to ave seen t happen . i own several TR6 and am hoping you will do similar videos of the engine on the cars you have in that shop regarding motor work. keep up the good work.
Thanks, Oliver! I don't have anybody to teach me so I just follow the manual (I thought I had someone, but after he ruined the first TR4 engine he got kicked out so...) and since I still have the instructions fresh in my mind I just say them out loud while I am following them :) Yes, I will be rebuilding two TR6 engines and I will post videos. We just got a 1974 TR6 this week and the engine came very well organized in 12 plastic containers LOL It is going to be literally rebuilding. You know what I mean!
I am in the middle of rebuilding my 62 TR3B and have a question about the oil pump. I am replacing the old one with a new one and was wondering what your thought are on priming the pump? Should I worry about trying to make something so I can prime it prior to the initial start up?
Elin, good video. Regards your commentary on the head gasket, if it helps for the future Rolls Royce recommends that you coat each side of their copper head gasket with a product called WellSeal using a small brush. It looks very similar to the product you've been applying to your gaskets, ( WellSeal has a rather pungent smell to it). I too in the past have been confused about the use of sealer on a copper gasket , but since I used it after rebuilding Rolls Royce engines I applied the same to other makes ( If Rolls Royce recommends the use it must be good practice) Other manufacturers using a metal faced gasket have recommended other sealants ( Hylomar is one) but never have I used sealant on a non metallic faced gasket.. Really enjoying the rebuild !!!
Thank you for the advice, John! I guess the WellSeal is the same product as the Aviation Form-a-gasket I use. It has the same smell as a sealant I used to have in Bulgaria called Indian Head. I guess it is the same smell you are talking about. I read about Hylomar too. But there were so many different opinions about sealant on copper gasket so I got overwhelmed reading them all and just decided not to use anything. But next time I will follow your advice. And since you are good in this can I ask you for your advice on a different topic? I have a customer's TR6 which was smoking like a chimney and the customer asked us to rebuild the engine. I noticed the oil level was a lot higher than the maximum and there was huge leak from the bottom of the fuel pump. So I figured the diaphragm was ripped and the oil got mixed with petrol. That made it very thin and it was able to go through the piston rings and valve collars much easier. So I installed another pump, changed the oil, started the engine and voila... the engine was a nonsmoker. But, obviously it was running for a long time with the thinned oil, because there is a significant clucking noise form the bottom of the engine, so I guess the main bearings and the conrod bearings are gone due to the thin oil. However all cylinders have very good compression - around 180 psi so I really don't want to touch higher than the crankshaft. So my question is - do you think it is a good idea to change only the main and conrod bearings without disturbing the pistons and rings or there is a possibility the thinned oil did some damage there too? I'd really appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance!
Elin, In short my answer would be yes. A good compression test will obviously show that the piston rings, bores and cylinder valves are in good order, and at this stage wouldn't warrant a strip down. It could well be that the diluted oil has probably flushed away any carbon and sticky deposits from the piston rings providing a good seal. I have heard Spitfire engines " rumbling" at the bottom end before and showing low oil pressure on idle which indicated worn main bearing journals and more often than not worn crankshaft thrust washers. ( I have seen this so bad you can see the crankshaft pulley move slightly when the clutch is depressed) If it's the connecting rod bearings it sounds more like a knock than a rumble. I can't remember if you can remove the sump with the engine in place to carry out further investigations without removing the complete engine ( as I would try at home) but with the workshop facilities on hand the engine could be removed in less than an hour. It's worth a shot in just repairing the bottom end first, like the old saying " if it ain't broke leave well alone". I hope this helps
Thank you so much, John. That's what I thought too, but I wanted a specialist's opinion as well. I didn't want to do something stupid especially with a customer's car. Yeah, so I will remove the engine, as you say it will take less than an hour, since the body is already off. This is the TR6, with the frame repair I posted a moth or so ago. I will see the condition of the journals and will measure. Hopefully they won't need to be mashined and I can get away with just undersized bearings. Thank you so much for your detailed responce
Awesome series Elin! I have a quick question for you. Im in the process of rebuilding a 1960 tr3 engine and my head gasket cylinder don't match the cylinder diameter...the retailer is telling me its the correct gasket. Gasket has 91.8mm and cylinders are 86.4mm...doesn't seem right.
Oh, you got me going here :) Yes, I grew up with metric, but I was good with the numbers in school and also when I first got into computers I learned different numeral systems like binary and hexadecimal, which was extremely interesting for me (not for my classmates surprisingly). I don't even remember when I first learned about imperial units, but I've never had problems with this system. It is just simple fractions after all. I also used to play guitar and in the music the notes have the same fractional system for their duration - half note, quarter, eight...I don't remember which one was first - imperial units or music, but they were always very close to me, so I switched to imperial automatically when I came to Canada. The only thing that took me some time was to get used to eyeballing distances. Since I was in the clothing industry for a long time I am pretty good in that, I can eyeball 4cm for example with +/- 1mm. So it took me some time to transfer that in imperial, but it happened automatically. When I first came in Canada I worked for 11 months as production coordinator in a mattress covers company and there we had different height mattresses - from 6 to 15 inches. Soon I became good in recognizing them without measuring and now when I have to estimate a measurement I just imagine this is a mattress and I guess pretty close LOL
It is so nice to see someone taking their time and doing everything right. Jim
For someone, who rebuilds an engine with a book in his hand it is the only way :)
Yep, I rebuilt mine TR4 engine and thought I had a good handle on it but didn't pay attention to the ring placement on the pistons and drove thru the middle of Houston leaving a smoking screen behind me.
I have owned my TR6 for 30 years and and oil pressure has always been a concern and mystery... I have never seen or understood how the (simple) oil pump worked until now! Great videos! Keep them coming.
It is simple, but genius. It is amazing how they made 4 leafs spin into 5 channels with .004" clearance. I really admire the engineers from that time. That was invented with no computers or even calculators.....
Spray copper gasket onto both sides of the copper gasket. Can't beat it. Copper Gasket manufacturer told me this.
I've heard so many different opinions... I think I will just leave it dry from now onward.
fine. I'm sold on it (personally)
Nice work, I sure do enjoy your detailed ,informative videos,,,,,thank you !!!
Thanks, Doug!
Elin. Here is a link to a TR3 service manual. Page 119 mentions using Wellseal for the top of the block and sleeves before putting on the gasket. I went whole hog and did both sides on my Ferguson tractor. :-)
I read the manual too, but when it was written they weren't using copper gaskets and since mine was copper I was debating whether I should follow the manual or not. So I looked it up in internet and there were different opinions, but it lloked like the ratio was 50/50 so I just decided to put it dry.
hello
i am loving the videos and always waiting for new ones to come up on youtube.
i am loving all the explainatios you give and tricks
it is one thing to read the manual and another r to ave seen t happen .
i own several TR6 and am hoping you will do similar videos of the engine on the cars you have in that shop regarding motor work.
keep up the good work.
Thanks, Oliver! I don't have anybody to teach me so I just follow the manual (I thought I had someone, but after he ruined the first TR4 engine he got kicked out so...) and since I still have the instructions fresh in my mind I just say them out loud while I am following them :)
Yes, I will be rebuilding two TR6 engines and I will post videos. We just got a 1974 TR6 this week and the engine came very well organized in 12 plastic containers LOL It is going to be literally rebuilding. You know what I mean!
Greetings from Luxembourg. Great Help!
I'm surprised you didn't use sealant on the timing chain cover.
I am in the middle of rebuilding my 62 TR3B and have a question about the oil pump. I am replacing the old one with a new one and was wondering what your thought are on priming the pump? Should I worry about trying to make something so I can prime it prior to the initial start up?
Elin, good video. Regards your commentary on the head gasket, if it helps for the future Rolls Royce recommends that you coat each side of their copper head gasket with a product called WellSeal using a small brush. It looks very similar to the product you've been applying to your gaskets, ( WellSeal has a rather pungent smell to it). I too in the past have been confused about the use of sealer on a copper gasket , but since I used it after rebuilding Rolls Royce engines I applied the same to other makes ( If Rolls Royce recommends the use it must be good practice) Other manufacturers using a metal faced gasket have recommended other sealants ( Hylomar is one) but never have I used sealant on a non metallic faced gasket.. Really enjoying the rebuild !!!
Thank you for the advice, John! I guess the WellSeal is the same product as the Aviation Form-a-gasket I use. It has the same smell as a sealant I used to have in Bulgaria called Indian Head. I guess it is the same smell you are talking about. I read about Hylomar too. But there were so many different opinions about sealant on copper gasket so I got overwhelmed reading them all and just decided not to use anything. But next time I will follow your advice. And since you are good in this can I ask you for your advice on a different topic? I have a customer's TR6 which was smoking like a chimney and the customer asked us to rebuild the engine. I noticed the oil level was a lot higher than the maximum and there was huge leak from the bottom of the fuel pump. So I figured the diaphragm was ripped and the oil got mixed with petrol. That made it very thin and it was able to go through the piston rings and valve collars much easier. So I installed another pump, changed the oil, started the engine and voila... the engine was a nonsmoker. But, obviously it was running for a long time with the thinned oil, because there is a significant clucking noise form the bottom of the engine, so I guess the main bearings and the conrod bearings are gone due to the thin oil. However all cylinders have very good compression - around 180 psi so I really don't want to touch higher than the crankshaft. So my question is - do you think it is a good idea to change only the main and conrod bearings without disturbing the pistons and rings or there is a possibility the thinned oil did some damage there too? I'd really appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance!
Elin, In short my answer would be yes. A good compression test will obviously show that the piston rings, bores and cylinder valves are in good order, and at this stage wouldn't warrant a strip down. It could well be that the diluted oil has probably flushed away any carbon and sticky deposits from the piston rings providing a good seal.
I have heard Spitfire engines " rumbling" at the bottom end before and showing low oil pressure on idle which indicated worn main bearing journals and more often than not worn crankshaft thrust washers. ( I have seen this so bad you can see the crankshaft pulley move slightly when the clutch is depressed) If it's the connecting rod bearings it sounds more like a knock than a rumble.
I can't remember if you can remove the sump with the engine in place to carry out further investigations without removing the complete engine ( as I would try at home) but with the workshop facilities on hand the engine could be removed in less than an hour.
It's worth a shot in just repairing the bottom end first, like the old saying " if it ain't broke leave well alone". I hope this helps
Thank you so much, John. That's what I thought too, but I wanted a specialist's opinion as well. I didn't want to do something stupid especially with a customer's car. Yeah, so I will remove the engine, as you say it will take less than an hour, since the body is already off. This is the TR6, with the frame repair I posted a moth or so ago. I will see the condition of the journals and will measure. Hopefully they won't need to be mashined and I can get away with just undersized bearings. Thank you so much for your detailed responce
Engine porn of this magnitude could really use some "Bow Chicka Wow-Wow" music. :-D
haha
Looking good!
Thanks!
Very nice !
Thanks!
Would the Form-a-Gasket increase the end float of the distributor shaft? Or does it get squeezed out and thus not a factor?
It squeezes out. I actually made a video somewhere on that subject. It only fills up gaps and pores… it has no thickness
@@RustyBeauties ah, thanks Elin! I must have missed that video. Now I have one to look for!
Awesome series Elin! I have a quick question for you. Im in the process of rebuilding a 1960 tr3 engine and my head gasket cylinder don't match the cylinder diameter...the retailer is telling me its the correct gasket. Gasket has 91.8mm and cylinders are 86.4mm...doesn't seem right.
It must have been a pain in the but, learning the imperial system, assuming that you are much more familiar with the metric?
Oh, you got me going here :) Yes, I grew up with metric, but I was good with the numbers in school and also when I first got into computers I learned different numeral systems like binary and hexadecimal, which was extremely interesting for me (not for my classmates surprisingly). I don't even remember when I first learned about imperial units, but I've never had problems with this system. It is just simple fractions after all. I also used to play guitar and in the music the notes have the same fractional system for their duration - half note, quarter, eight...I don't remember which one was first - imperial units or music, but they were always very close to me, so I switched to imperial automatically when I came to Canada. The only thing that took me some time was to get used to eyeballing distances. Since I was in the clothing industry for a long time I am pretty good in that, I can eyeball 4cm for example with +/- 1mm. So it took me some time to transfer that in imperial, but it happened automatically. When I first came in Canada I worked for 11 months as production coordinator in a mattress covers company and there we had different height mattresses - from 6 to 15 inches. Soon I became good in recognizing them without measuring and now when I have to estimate a measurement I just imagine this is a mattress and I guess pretty close LOL