1964 TR4 - Part 11 - Liners, Crank and Rear Seal Assembling
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- Опубликовано: 20 янв 2023
- Now that we have the parts, let's get the crank from the machine shop and begin the engine assembling. Liners, crank, cam, rear seal and front sealing block. Oh, and the seal on the rear main cap too.
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Fantastic video
Excellent tutorial. This will be very valuable for anyone in the future rebuilding a TR4. Thanks!
great job guys, i strangely enjoyed that video.
Good to see that Chef Elin has his kitchen staff working effectively.... no Gordon Ramsey tantrums !
Excellent piece of teaching, Thank you Elin and David.
Brilliant!
Excellent guys thanks!
It's been educational watching.
Can't wait for the next one.
🤯
Nice job guys. 👍
As ever a great watch boys and Rusty keep em coming.
It's coming along nicely!
Great series , so well illustrated & explained, you have set the benchmark extremely high . Well done from frozen UK, but not as cold as you!
Brilliant instructional and entertaining video Elin ( & David). I only wish I'd have had this to look at before I did my first TR crank refitting 🤫😅.. Can't wait for the piston & rod refitting..
Another great video Elin. thank you 🎅
Great work. It's looking really good! The timing video is greatly anticipated!
Good team!
Fun Day!
Great video, easy to follow step by step. Some sage advice in the comments as well.
Nice couple of walk on parts from Rusty, I don't think he was asleep on the job at the start!! Looked cold out out there but 0°C is nothing for you Canadians😉😉
Good luck from a snowy Spain!!
Great video Elin. I think the block and main caps are stamped with the same numbers to keep them together as a set. The caps and block are line bored assembled so they must be kept as a set.
A quick comment on chasing threads after painting. A friend had recommended to me once that I should chase all the threads for dirt and gunk prior to painting, and then grease the threads to keep the paint off the metal. After painting you're only removing clean grease.
True, but it is easier to degrease the whole engine and keep grease away from it until after the paint.
Cheese (English Cheddar cheese I think) used to come in a big round lump which is the same shape as the" cheese headed screws" - hence the name
Tush is a good back seat driver ;-) Water pump!
Actually, that gasket does have to cover the whole water pump housing. Otherwise, when you tightened that outside bolt it would put pressure on the edge of the gasket.
Yes, I agree. They could have machined the 2 surfaces at a different height and use a gasket only at the area which requires sealing, but I guess it was easier to make the gasket bigger :)
The head of the screw is shaped like a wheel of cheese !
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
surprised you didnt plastigage the main bearings with the complete rebuild. maybe you already did it off camera. nice detailed video elin and dave!
I don't find it necessary. I've done it with my first 2 or 3 engine rebuilds and figured that doing the math is enough. The new bearings are extremely precise and if the measurements of the crank are good, there is no way there would be an error.
A very concise and expertly done build. But..... no sealant/gasket on the rear seal housings........???
You are right, that would have been a good idea. The instructions don't say anything about it and I never thought of it either. Haven't had issues with other engines so hopefully it is OK. But yeah, it is a good idea. Thanks
Hi Elin, isnt the water pump gasket designed in such a way as to eliminate any discrepency in the two faces? Surely, when you place the pump on the block now you have trimmed the gasket, you will be stressing the pump when you tighten it.
Oh, yeah, I am definitely leaving the gasket as it is without trimming it. But I am using sealant only in the area David cleaned.
Hi Elin ,
Very informative video. One query , the split seal on the newly installed rear bearing kit . Does it matter where we locate the split ?
Thanks
he said up top
The instructions call for top.
Would anti seize on the studs be allowed?
Yeah, that would be a good idea. I need to buy some though. I never use it and I think it is time to start
@@RustyBeauties Worked with a guy named Teddy. His law was if you’re using anti seize and you don’t end up with it all over you, you’re not using enough. That stuff gets everywhere.
Hi there in you earlier tr4 rebuild you didn't use the rear crank seal alignment tool but this rebuild you are using the tool was there a problem with the earlier tr4 rebuild do you need the alignment tool or not cheers mark
No I don't recall any leaks on that engine rebuild years ago. To be honest, I used the tool, just because I have it now, but I don't think it is that critical for the conversion as the rubber seal compensates for any slight discrepancies in the gap around the crankshaft.
Thanks just brought a second hand one of ebay just to be safe side with my tr3 a engine thanks for all your videos are great thanks from one of your uk you viewers
Did David come without beers Elin ? 🤔
So, it works the opposite in this situation, he needs to supply the Diet Coke 😉
@@cheftush 👍😂🤣
What if you don't have the special tool to center the rear conversion seal?
Since the conversion seal is actually a rubber lip seal it is not that critical. If leave the seal housing bolts lose, install the crank and then push the two halves towards the crank gently the lip will kind of self center around it. Again, the gap there is a few thou and the rubber is gonna compensate for any slight discrepancies. The original aluminum seal is what is more critical.
@@RustyBeauties Thank you very much. I am hanging on every word of this series as I put my TR3 engine back together.
What breed of dog is Rusty? He looks like Santa's Little Helper.
LOL, he is a Black Lab/Cane Corso (and some other breeds LOL) mix