Clutch Replacement pt.1 (2005 Honda Civic)
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- Опубликовано: 16 апр 2018
- The Best Automotive Repair/Business software for the Pros
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Links Below To All The Parts Used On This Job
Genuine Honda Fluid 08798-9031 Manual Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart
amzn.to/3lVZGRS
EXEDY KHC08 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit
amzn.to/3pOHfAQ
EXEDY FWHDC02FF Replacement Flywheel
amzn.to/3kRtyx4
National 228015 Crankshaft Rear Seal
amzn.to/336v8p4
Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone
amzn.to/3nJtb9K 
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My man came in clutch with a honda video. 😂😂😂
hey man! great video(s)! just wanted to say thank you for putting (all 3) of these clutch videos together. ive watched them so many times over the past few weeks in prep of doing this job on my 04. and letting you know we got the job done successfully this past weekend thanks to these videos! keep up the good work!
Great video. Very professional and informative. Thinking of tackling this myself. One thing I should point out. Alway break loose the fill plug before draining in any circumstance. This is to insure you can actually fill transmission again prior to removing all fluids.
Thanks buddy this helped in doing my clutch and without your video i don't know what i would have done you are one fabulous Mechanic!
Holy god bro,thank you so much for share your work.
I remember that one day change a honda clutch in the floor...
The horribly experience in my life.
Our work is very hard and sometimes don't valored.
Best wishes dude,good health.
Great job, probably the best job video I've seen. Thx for your efforts.
This is a very good video, and it deserves more views. I like the camera angles, and it is informative. Now it's time for part 2 :-)
every bolt on this car just pops off... mine was not like that at all lol thanks for the vid
Great video! Very professional. Learned a lot thank you.
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing.
Was thinking about doing this job because my clutch kinda sucks . . . I have now changed mind, it will last a little longer 😂
Nope I'm all set just got a new p
hone and I don't want it full of viruses
Your a good technician man, I'd be happy to work in the next bay over from ya. Sure would be better than working next to somebody with a really low iq...
very good!
Thank you very much!
Hi Bryan, really appreciate the video, this really helped with the removal and installation for a transmission swap!
Glad I could help Gary! 🤝
@@Bryan916 quick question. When replacing the main seal, is it really necessary to remove the main seal bracket? Thank you!
@@garychew3599 I believe you can just install the rear main bearing seal however it would be wise to reseal the housing as well, the housing is prone to leak with higher mileage!
@@Bryan916 THANK YOU!
i just happen to skip forward to 11:36 ... and I was like WTF IS THAT?!
thought it came from the civic 🙅
perfect Thank you
instead of zip-ties to hold the cables, you can use small bungee cord to hold them back
My goodness, I am planning on doing it myself in my garage... I think I will look if I can host the transmission out from top without dropping the sub frame.... I guess asking for deal to do the job for 2k Canadian is not bad at all. Just the car does worth that much anymore...
Question do I have to remove my Starter like you did...I want to do this in One sitting
Can you tell me what that plug was u removed before the starter? Not the speed sensor
How light would you say the transmission is? I'm thinking of doing this in a parking lot on Jack stands, alone. I have a hydronic jack. Is that doable?
boss may i ask, will this solve the issue of my civic 2001 slipping on third gear. my car will run 1-2 and engine will just roar on the third. i need to stop and then shift to neutral. after that i can shift to d again and will run again. thanks
Yes. Most likely a new clutch will fix that
How much is for this?
Great video, man! Thanks for making this.
I have a question for you or to anyone else in the comment section that might know.
Would it be safe to remove the subframe along with front and rear mounts while leaving the motor and tranny suspended by only the left and right mounts?
If this can be done safely, I’m thinking it would be possible to remove the subframe without a jack getting in the way while it supports motor and trans (for those of us working on the car while it sits on jack stands). And then, once the subframe is out the way we can support the motor on a jack, with a piece of wood to spread the load of course, and then remove the left/tranny mount.
Let me know what y’all think.
Place your jack stands on the pinch weld so that there's room for the sub-frame to come down. Before you drop the sub-frame put a jack stand under the engine oil pan with a flat piece of wood to support the weight of the engine and trans. One motor mount will not hold the weight!!!!!
Also, I have another question. I am at the stage where I am ready to drop the sub-frame. Did you support the motor up (from oil pan) and support to hold the transmission up while dropping the sub-frame? I want to know if you just use one support, or two supports while dropping the sub-frame. Also, where did you use supports on the car.
I put a support underneath the motor on the oil pan with a tall jack stand with a wood block. When I removed the rear main housing I put a support else where then removed the pan support. After I installed the rear main I then put the support back under the oil pan. Note: when lowering the subframe down it will not interfere with the oil pan support and the engine will have to be constantly supported until you reinstall the subframe!
@@Bryan916 Hi Bryan, thank you sir!!!
Hey bro. I like that impact gun, what’s the information on that , Like branding.?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRV7674/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
God, this job is gonna be a pain in the ass trying to get it done in the driveway. I'm changing the whole transmission, though. Got a remanned one from Synchrotech, new engine/trans mounts, new starter, Exedy clutch kit and 7 quarts of fluid. Am I missing anything?
It's not that bad once you get going everything sounds good except you don't need 7 quarts of fluid more like 2 quarts
@@Bryan916 Okay. Don't know why I was thinking 6.2 quarts. Wth.. Anyway, I also got the axle shaft seals and a rear main seal tonight, some gasket maker to put on the rear main, and I think I'm gonna go ahead and change the starter and down pipe/catalytic converter while it's all apart. Man, this crap snowballed so fast...
You need slow down brian I not finished the engine strip vids yet :-)
Will put the hondoo in the queue .
Dont make the cheddar goin slow!!! Bust em out and get paid!!! Name of the game lol
Dang I heard that throw out bearing before ya said what it was. Knew exactly what that noise was. Somebody must drive with their foot on the clutch.
These lil Honda's aint too bad to work on. Real curious to see what the flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate looks like
I'm wondering how much the flywheel needs turned if it doesn't have heat cracks all over it and blued
You cant really resurface this type of flywheel you gotta just replace it. I ordered a new one it wasn't much more than having it machined.
Dont surprise me.
I know if it were mine it all be new.
Yeah, plus the pilot bearing's probably disintegrated into powder with a few tiny chunks of metal 😂
What did you do at 24:55 to separate the ball joint? Mine will not come apart
captainzerg I let it soak with penetrating oil then hit it with a air hammer at 2455 you see me striking it with a air hammer!
I don't have an air hammer, any other suggestions to have it come loose?
captainzerg try striking where I struck with a hammer a heavy hammer and then pry to see if it comes up may take quite a few wacks of a regular hammer
Ok love your work man I got a quick question for you what kind of impack 3/8 did you use on this video thank you
Ingersoll Rand W5132-K12 IQv20 Series Cordless Impact
amzn.to/2F5qYiG
So sad to see the frame has to come out to pull the transmission.
It wasn't that difficult. Four large bolts two smaller bolts behind the wheel well. The only issue I had was the motor being held on by one mount gets a little floppy in there.
I left the top motor mount connected to the trans while I lowered the sub frame. That way I could shift my jacks over to the engine after it was removed.
Getting the transmission out took about 2 and a half hours. Ran into a few issues with pilot bearing and misplaced tools. lol I have a small cluttered garage. all in all start to finish about an 8 hour job depending on your tools and set up.
If it’s the ex model and the clutch kit comes with a pilot bearing you’ll have to pull the flywheel to change it. My impact had a hard time removing these bolts. I’d also recommend loosening the drive shaft bolts before putting the car up on jack stands. Stabbing the transmission back in was a pain I had a helper for that part.
You picked that subframe up by yourself!? Listen man I think competitive weight lifting may be a possible career for you in case car repair doesn't work out