Ford Turn Signal Switch Harness How To
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2021
- Episode 120
Ford Turn Signal Switch Harness How To
Ford Falcon Galaxie Mustang turn signal harness how to
We finally install the Auto Krafters turn signal wring harness to get our 1964 Falcon up and running as it should be. We show how to remove a falcon steering wheel. We remove the original broken turn signal switch. We install the new turn signal switch from Auto Krafters.
jford@autorestomod.com
/ gasolinemedia
www.autokrafters.com
Horn Ring Contact & Brush 1962-64 Galaxie 1960-64 Falcon: C2OZ-13A821A
www.autokrafters.com/p-8950-h...
Steering Column Bearing 1960-65 Ford Falcon 1960 Galaxie T Bird 1965-66 Mustang: C3DZ-3517A
www.autokrafters.com/p-10266-...
Turn Signal Switch 1962-64 Ford Fairlane 1963-64 Falcon: C3OZ-13341B
www.autokrafters.com/p-1635-t... 
Авто/Мото
I had a 1964 Falcon Futura and in 1989 I had to replace the TS switch. I was only 21 and not a lot of automotive experience was able to do it without any help. Got the wires feed thru the Steering column, matched the colors and it all worked
Awesome!
Im starting on my 65 f100 and watching your show has helped. Thank you
Glad to help
About to tackle this in my '64 fairlane! Thanks for the step by step! Perfect timing!!!
Good luck!
Another useful video. Thanks.
As for getting the new wires down through the column, I usually pull a dummy wire up, taped to the old wires as I remove the switch. Then I tape the new wires to the dummy wire and pull it back down through. That way, the cone and the dreaded hooks don't need to be messed with.
Great tip!
This video really helped me on a repair like this to my '66 Galaxie 500 thanks dude
You are welcome!
Great video; side-by-side was a nice addition. BTW, I like seeing home renovation videos.
OK, we'll do a Fords Focus on that.
Its quite a bit different than early Falcons, but still tons of useful information I can definitely use! Thanks Jeff!!!
You bet!
Definitely going to be using this intel soon on my 63 Falcon. Thanks!
You are welcome.
You have been living well to pull that off without more issues. Was hoping it was going to be on the mustang with the key in the column. Not sure if my turn signal issue is in the dash or the column. Thanks for passing on the knowledge.
You are welcome!
FYI Do not put your parts on the Dash. Murphy's Law will say part of them will roll down into the defroster ducting! Ask me how I know! Use a magnetic parts can etc. Also. it is better than the rug or seat as they will get lost there also! Just sayin.
Great idea! I make sure to keep them far away from the defrost. On these cars the ducts are right at the radio.
My new switch for my 64 Galaxie was "fun". It didn't come with terminals, so rather than reconnect the old bullet terminal to each wire, I cut the old wires about 3" up from the end, then pulled the old switch up about 3" and cut all the wires loose from the old switch. Then I hooked up each new wire to the same color wire on the old wires. Very neatly and compactly, an then wrapped electrical tape over this splice, again, tightly and smooth so it would pull thru the column easily. It did. Then just remove the old wires, connect the new wires to the old ones down at the short ones I left in the connector. It works fine EXCEPT the new switch leaves the left front bulb blinking when the switch is in the center/ off position. I have to push the lever up a tiny bit to make it stop. Defective switch. Thanks Ecklers....
Nice!
If you have not already, you might want to try using a small paint brush to apply a small bit of lubricant to the plastic posts on the underside of the upper switch (aka the moving part of the switch - aka the white plastic part in Jeff's video). Those two posts are supposed to slide smoothly into their three resting "firm" positions - one of your posts may be binding a bit after you cancel the left turn (I suspect the upper post but lubricate both for good measure). Don't overdue this job because a bunch of lubricant can errantly "bridge" the terminals and suddenly you get all kinds of random flashing. Use a small brush and be precise about applying the lubricant to only those two posts: The upper post can be accessed in the right hand turn position, the lower post in left turn position (ideally the lubricant is painted onto those posts before installing the assembly into the collar).
Good show. I have found to a little grease on splines, will help next time it has to take it off. Next, I used painter tape to run from steering wheel to steering column to make sure it straight when goes back on. Also, put a dot on steering shaft to ensure it lines up.
Good tips. We'll be covering that on Logan's Ranchero and I'll be using your ideas!
Another great video Jeff . Would love to see some before and after pics . Happy for your new house and hope all goes well.
Thanks! Will do!
I am learning alot from your videos. do you have one for the rocker panel extension on a 62 ranchero
Hi Jeff, I have a 1967 econoline van falcon series, I am messing with the turn signal switch on it and I noticed that the three on tree shifter pivot bushing that is in the same area as the blinker switch, is super loose, do you know of any suppliers that would offer one? Thanks for your time and help,
Jeff I had a question about the turn signal retainer bracket that you said is possibly not available anywhere.... Do you happen to know if the early70 broncos and pickups have the same retainer plate for the turn signal switch because I found a website that's a bronco only restoration site and they have them in stock?
Liked the side-by-side camera action.
Thanks!
How do you know the problem with no turn signal is the switch/harness? I have checked all bulbs,and the flasher. Can't figure it out. I did just change the steering wheel out before this happened. They were working intermittently before. Thanks for your videos. Mine is a 65 Galaxie.
I am planning to do this as well. I'm glad I saw this before executing my plan because sometimes you know what happens to the best laid plans. But you do have to plan the work, and work the plan, right?
PS I plan to tie and pull a string/wire up through the column as I remove the old switch to use to pull the new wires down, I hope that plan pans out.
Go for it!
Great video!! I may have missed it, but how did you get the male connectors out of the plug? It's a semi-circle plastic joby! I am working on my 1977 F150 Ranger, but they have exactly the same switch (it appears)! Thanks
There is a tool that NPD sells that can help with the removal. www.npdlink.com/product/removal-tool-wire-terminal/107213?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dwire%252Bremoval%252Btool%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D
Nicely done. Mine is still in one piece but at 57 years old at least now I know that to expect when it does go ;)
Glad it helped.
I've always tied 3-4 strings to wires on old switch, pull through. Tie the equal length wires together on new switch, pull back through.. Assuming it isn't loose, no need to mess with collar.
That is a great tip! Thanks.
Ive done that but still had issues with hangups.
I did this on a 67 Galaxie. The only difference was you had to remove the wires from a plug to get them to go through the column. A big hint would be to tape a string or wire on to the end of the wires to use as a fish tape to pull the new wires back through the column. I did that and didn't have to remove that collar. Although, it might have been good to remove it to grease it as you did.
Pull string attached to the last wire you pulled out to be used to pull the wires down thru the column.
We don't have a later Ford to do that on right now but we definately will be mucking with the Torino.
TIP: When I took my collar off, I cleaned it up real good. Since it was so clean now, the top bolt had no interest in staying up. The [square] bolt heads on these HAVE TO BE AGAINST the outer wall of the 'box' they sit in. The bottom is no problem, because that's where gravity will pull it. The top one will do the opposite, keeping you from getting it over the edge of the inner collar, that is, the collar with the rectangular hole that the bolt head slides into to lock it to the outer collar. To keep it up, I eventually used a weak, flexible glue. In my case, I used E6000 craft cement. This solved the problem; when I tightened the nut it easily pulled it down the box and into the inner collar hole. I've heard anecdotally that a drop-sized piece of chewing gum works, too.
Thx for the tech, just used the info.
Glad it helped
What will hit the cams on the return ”pins”? My original 1965 Sprint steering wheel hub is completely smooth, so there is nothing that will hit the tabs and return the indicator. Am I missing a piece? Return never worked and I am trying to rectify that now.
Edit: Some research made me aware of the missing cancelling cam. Guess where I found one. NPD of course. 😁
As usual a helpful video! Other than greasing the cam lobes, is there anyway to prevent them from breaking?
Prayer might be a helpful thing. Honestly though making sure that you get the proper lubrication that the cam manufacturer recommends as your best bet.
Can the shifter collar be repaired or replaced without completely removing the steering column?
I wish this video had been out before I had to do this on my Mustang. One lesson I learned the hard way was do not try to tape or ziptie that harness before you install it. The wires will not fit down the steering column no matter how hard you try if they are together.
Yes. Single wire shove seems to be the best way.
Yes they will. I just did this in my 64 Galaxie with column shift auto. I unplugged the 2 connections at the bottom. I cut the old wires 3 inches up. Then I pulled the old switch up about 3 inches. I then cut the old wires about 1 inch down from the old switch, all at one time. Then I cut the new wires off even, about 2-3 inches from the bottom. Now I spliced the new wires to the old wires, at the top, where the old switch used to be ,by just twisting them together and folding that over, one at a time. Then I wrapped this splice area over a length of about 4 inches, nice and smooth and neatly. Then I just pulled the old wires down thru the column, pulling the new wires right on thru. Now I take the old wires loose, and connect the new wires to the old 3 inch long stubs according to wire color. Plug the 2 connectors back in. Finish the install of the switch.
I’ve replaced the canceling cam on my 1971 F350, exact setup shown here. I had to splice the two wires, twisted them and soldered … now for some reason only my left front and right rear signals flash. I’m guessing it may be old/bad wiring that I spliced to or insignificant contact of wire tangs from the new cam to the old base(?). My turn signals worked fine before, just didn’t self cancel… looking like I’ll try what you show here and replace the whole unit and harness. Good video, thanks!
You have a similar problem to mine. My signals were fine before, just wouldn't self cancel. I should have left it alone. Now with the new switch the left front turn signal is blinking in the center/ off position. If I push up on the lever a tiny bit it will stop. Normally functional otherwise. I think the new switch is defective. I hope you didn't get yours from Eklers, which the part actually is a Dennis Carpenter part. You can not get them on the phone to talk with them about your defective product. They ignore emails too. Great customer service huh?? I say find another switch from another vendor and your problem will go away. We'll after another couple hours job.
Agreed, I had my new switch for quite awhile before installing it (can’t recall who I ordered it through). I just received a complete new turn signal assembly like the one in the video that I bought from NPD, haven’t installed it yet… my signals seem to work more consistently if I put a little pressure on the turn signal lever but I certainly don’t like ‘assuming’ they are working! I’ll install the new assembly/harness soon, I would have liked the video to include the bottom end wiring to connector installation… 😉
@@joelamper5164 I sure hope the new switch solves your problems Joe. I've bought a few defective parts in my past, I'm a retired partsman after 45 years, so I've dealt with quite a few people who were rather unhappy with a defective part thru the years, and I always understood their frustration and anger. Good luck with your project, I think I'll order a replacement for mine from Autokrafters, right now I'm kind of ill with Macs/Ecklers. Poor customer service.
Joe. I just re read your original post. When you were replacing the cancel cam, I know how big of a pain that is, there are 2 little plastic pieces with contacts on them in the lower part of the switch with pins on them that engage with the cancel cam. It kind of sounds like one of those sliding plastic pieces is out of place, or fell out or stuck. After 4 hours of fighting to put in just the cam, I ordered the whole switch and ended up with a defective switch. I should have just left it alone and manually canceled the signals. Anyway just a thought on your issue.
❤hiya Jefro, I ❤just cut the pigtail off. Then match the wires underneath. God bless. Steve
Do you know, if the switch ligth directions is the same that the ford f100 that maverick 77?
I do know that the switching setup is almost always the same on a ford. But the turn signal switch is much different I think on a Maverick than it is on an early F100
Jeff how do u reinstall the big clutch and brake pedal assembly spring under the dash on a 67 mustang thanks
ruclips.net/video/tQwRvWBSP3Y/видео.html
Autorestomod episode 158
Thank u
Hey! This a timely RUclips recommendation. I'll be doing this today (07/2023)!
The algorithm is something of a seer.
Run a single string or a pull line from the top of the column, down the shaft, then out the hole...Tape the switch harness wires to the pull string (stagger the male ends so they don't get bunched up at the exit hole. Pull them through.
Good idea. I've done both methods and have better success personally with how I show it done.
Very useful.
Glad you think so!
I have a 1979 bronco and have all new switch and cam. Problem is, with wheel back on, the left turn signal will not engage, and the signal rod seems stiff while positioning left and right. It will not click into place to left signal, and to the right, I have to go really high to make it work. All part are from LMC and on a new build.
I stripped the threads on my steering column removing the steering wheel! What should I do? Can I cut new threads with a die or should I replace the column? Btw it’s on a 63 Ford F-250. I can’t get the nut that holds the steering wheel on to thread back on at all.
Sadly that shaft is part of the steering box. You could rethread but I don't like to do that on something I am using to steer the car or truck.
My 67 mustang OEM harness was still good. Just wouldn't lock when turning on the right turn signal. So I put a new harness on it. Now it locks like it should, but I have 0 left turn signal, or Hazzard lights. ??????? Suggestions?
It is in the wiring. There are harnesses that the colors on the wires are messed up.
@Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I figured it out. One of the wires on the main wire harness connection, the metal prong was loose. Wasn't making connection. Got it fixed. Thanks.
Let's see the home renovations...somethimg different in between is good👍👍👍
OK! I'll pirate the pics off of the missus phone!
@@AutoRestoMod don't get caught or u be sleeping in your truck 😂😂😂😂
I finally got around to doing this on my F-250. Everything worked fine and I've done it correctly, but the switch itself is VERY stiff moving between states (left, center, right) and will not cancel when on a turn (have to manually cancel it). No parts missing... it's all correct. Does it loosen up over time? Thanks from a Patreon!
Hey Chris thanks for your support!! You may have a problem where the canceling Cam on the steering wheel is not contacting the turn signal system. There should be a metal collar on the back side of the steering wheel with 2 protrusions on it for canceling the term signals. Check that.
I replaced my blinker switch in a 1977 Ford f 350 everything works but the blinkers on front and back flashers work on front not back any advice
Make sure you check the wiring. Some of those switches have the wires the wires in the wrong place. If you can put it up against the old switch and see what it looks like for wiring.
I can't guess how many times I've had that apart on my 65 F100 and fought putting all 7 wires back through the column at the same time, I never thought to try one wire at a time. I'm such an idiot sometimes. LOL 😆
All of us can take some learnin' I did it that way too for ages, then dad asked me why I was doing it that way...ok dad called me a dumbass and told me to feed one at a time. LOL
The "trick" I was taught, was to leave the old wires in the column and cut them a couple of inches from the the old switch. (about the same place your wires were cut) Then attach the freshly cut end of the old wires to the plugs on the new wires then and pull them through the column. Some people may call that the "Lazy" way........Well OK.
I've done that before too. I just like to keep the harness whole because of what we found on the old one...cut wires. They can separate when being drawn.
@@AutoRestoMod ' I must have misspoke, I don't cut the new wires, I cut the old wires and use them to drag the new wires through the column.
'
By any chance do u know the location of signal flasher canister (2 legged) on a 67 fairlane.
Usually Ford put those around the steering column area.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks alot!
Hey sir did you ever find where we can get the plate that holds the turn signal switch .
Can you send s picture to jford@autorestomod.com?
@@AutoRestoMod its the plate in this video that holds the cancel switch
3:30 if you don’t have a magnetic screwdriver then before you start, rub the tip the the screwdriver on a magnet so the screw sticks to it after it’s last thread instead of falling somewhere.
Craftsman makes a tool magnetizer/demagnetizer also. Pretty neat tool.
Yeah, I MEAN to do that all the time. But six kids, a honey do list and what not seem to hinder my ability to getter done.
I was able to accomplish this operation with very little problems on my 66 Fairlane years ago, But I have to replace the switch on my 69 falcon and the wire colors don’t seem to match up to the original switch’s or my eyes are going or a combination of both😀
Some of the aftermarket switches used different colors I think they were pulled from the Mustangs.
@@AutoRestoMod yeah I have to figure that out on the switch I got for my 69 Falcon.
You should do a video for 65-66 mustang complete steering column removal and rebuild/install.
We might do that on Cam's car.
before i pulled the last one out i taped the fishing line to the wires and went ahead and pulled the last wire out. i then transferred the fishing line to the new wires and gently pulled the wires through took me 5 minutes total on my 69 f250.
Good way to do it for sure!
I’m having the blinker issue fronts work back flash together all new wiring kit new blinker switch grounds checked anything else?
Sounds like you may have the two tied together in the harness somewhere. or have wired the emergency flashers to the turn signals.
@@AutoRestoMod that’s been the argument between my father in law and myself it’s a 65 and I could swear it doesn’t have emergency flashers he seems to think it does.
@@JaguarFD2017 Did you ever get your issue sorted? I have a theory if not...
I really would like to know how it was done at the factory. The first time I did this it probably took all day, and I had plenty of choice words to go along. How far are you going to be from your current spot?
We'll be in North Augusta, about 18 minutes away from the current Palatial Estate.
I suspect that the factory installed the turn/horn switch wiring (and lead for an optional compass indicator as found on some 65 Comets) before the column assembly was fitted into the car. This job is considerably easier with the column disassembled and outside the car - especially the final attach of the wiring plug (the last step that Jeff punted) and navigating the two hook nuts (that Jeff describes in detail). Of course column removal is a huge pain - so the approach Jeff used here is entirely reasonable should the column already be installed.
IMHO, in a full restoration an easier order of operation (which I think is what would have been used in the factory) is (1) install shaft/steering box, (2) at workbench assemble column tubes, collars, compass and wiring (and attached wiring plug(s) after the wires are pulled), (3) install that column assembly (by sliding it down the shaft while rotating the assembly such that the shift lever can pass through the firewall), (4) plug wiring into main harness, (5) affix collum to underside of dash, screw in turn signal switch, bolt steering wheel & horn.
im guessing its the same install on an f100, as the switch states it fits both right?
Pretty sure it will go the same.
I need the to know how to but the turn signal harness to Mach up the original receptacle
Sometimes you have to splice the original wire to the new harness.
Hopefully this applies to my 68 fairlane torino cuz this will be useful
Overall it will. there are some minor differences.
Yes. Pull that seat. I had to replace an A/C actuator on my wife's MKX and didn't... took a week to recover.
I most likely will.
Oh yeah, 4 bolts or nuts. Depending on the car, to remove the seat is so much better than a wrenched back and neck.
Jeff might I convince you to do a quick test on this (assuming you now have it all hooked up)?
Would you kindly very (very) very gently lift the turn signal lever as though you are intending to engage the right hand turn signal... while watching the LEFT tail signal light? When I do this on my 1965 Comet (with a brand new switch assembly) I see the left rear light blink - sometimes only once but if I am super careful (super gentle) I can get the left rear to continually blink. In this "gently lifted" state all three of the other signal slights are OFF. It is only the left rear light that will blink.
Yes, I am saying the LEFT rear indicator (only) will engage when initially attempting to signal RIGHT - but only when that lever is lifted extremely carefully.
After a massive amount of debugging I think I understand why this is happening (I won't labor this comment with my theory). I am having a difficult time believing this is a flaw specific to my switch. Rather I am thinking this may be a design flaw in the original design.
So by chance are you able to get the left tail light (alone) to blink if you very gingerly lift the lever?
We do need to revisit it and get it going. I'll look at that and see what I can find.
I’ll be doing this bullshit soon. Thanks for the video.
Ah yes, this is a fun one lol
Indeed.
How do you wire a universal turn signal switch to a 64 f100
You will need an original harness diagram to know what wires go where. AutoKrafters has service manuals and diagrams available
AutoKrafters also sells a cam piece so you don't have to replace the whole switch, just the part that moves and has the self-cancellation fingers. I just ordered one from them, hoping to save installation time and trouble. Hopefully it will do just that. : )
EDIT: It didn't. The turn signal switch in my car is not the original. The cam kit may have worked with the original, but if yours is riveted then don't try it. It's possible to drill it out, thread a 4-40 hole, file the cam opening so it goes on, and put it together. But the notches in the replacement cam that move the switch segments will move the segments too far, to the point that the brake light on the opposite side goes out when you put the turn signal on. Get a new switch instead.
What did I learn?... I now have to go buy an impact driver ;-(
BTW... you should send those rare hold down plate out to a machine shop or 3-D printer and have an bunch made...then sell them!
I did this with the cam shaft thrust washer (wedding ring) for the inline 144/170/200cid's. Very hard to find.
Good idea!
Next time tie a string to the old harness before you pull it out, can use it to pull your new harness back in. Easy peasy.
I have a 64 Comet Caliente , thanks
Very nice!
Just did it to my 70 , what a pain to get it through a tilt column
Tilt is the worst.
which wires are which?????
Any idea why only my right turn signal doesn’t work ?
I would say probably either a bulb or ground issue
Yeah jeff, let's see some before and after, let's do it ...
LOL Right on Paul. It'll be a Fords focus.
I just replaced my turn signal switch in my 64 Galaxie.
I'm guessing there isn't a ton of difference between the two.
I like how you take the wires out of the dash like they’re just hanging there with no instructions where those wires come from
Now to see how a mopar column compares
LOL
Not gonna show us all those connections under the dash ?
Q.
A.
You should not post this type of video where today's youth might see it. If they attempt to use hand tools they might hurt themselves...
HAHAHAHAHA. My stepson is helping to rebuild his Ranchero. I think it is actually building character...
@@AutoRestoMod Yeah, that's it. What we call bitching and moaning, cussing, throwing tools etc. is character building. My boss at the first parts store I worked at told me, after I had just dealt with a customer that was a total A HOLE, that's what we call a character builder.
PPPPPP. Propper planning prevents piss poor performance
Plan ur work. Work ur plan
True.