Great video. Just found it and had to replace the switch on my ‘67 Mustang this past weekend. I found if you remove two screws holding the shroud on the column, it give access to the tunnel to feed all ten wires down the column at the same time. Worked great for me. Also, cutting the wires from the old connector a few inches longer makes it easier to match the old to the new. Like you, next time I’m buying a new connector instead of cutting/soldering/heat shrinking the wires because I could get the old wires to release from the connector.
Nice video. I've replaced several T/S switches on newer vehicles. When I did my 67, I didn't run the wires through the column. Thought they ran out of the upper collar then in. Nope. Thanks for the video. Time to redo and do it like yours.
Good video - I have done auto electrical work for years on various makes, though not on Mustangs. I already checked the brake light switch, but could not find a wiring diagram quickly. This video told me that current to brake lights runs through the turn signal switch connector. Similar to some other makes, though this verified it. Thanks!
Incase anyone needs new connectors (10) wire they are: c5cz-14489-A, connector for turn signal wires, and c5sz-14489B, connector plug from dash harness. New pins c4az-14461A 14-16-18 gauge. Plug connectors are $4.95 ea, and the pins are 0.80 a piece. CJ Pony or Mustangs Etc. CJ is much higher. FYI hope this helps someone. Cheers.
Also, if you need the "cam" that cancels, available at NPD #13318-3A $3.71 and the Pin removal tool #957-2 $15.10 at National Parts Depot also. Switch plug connector #14489-4A (10 pin) is $5.92 FYI
Future wise when cutting the wires that are inside the column leave one or two wires uncut and cut that wire at the switch. This leaves you with a wire(s) to pull the new wires down and out of the column.
Great video, I’ll be replacing my T/S switch soon. What was the problem with yours? The plastic cracks or the cam is worn/crack. Just looking to diagnose a right turn intermittent action. Thanks
I tried tackling this today on my 68. The turn signals wouldnt lock in place and after taking off the steering wheel i noticed both hooks on the cam were broken. Ordered a replacent from Amazon (Dorman) and changed out the cam but the hooks grab too well. When I turn the steering to cancel it pops off the center plastic piece so tomorrow Im going to shave the hooks a bit see if that helps
@@AlfsMustangGarage I know what you mean but since I have quite a ways to go Im trying to save a buck. Cam was only $12, but if it doesnt work out I'll eventually get the whole switch.👍
I just replaced my switch on my 67 and have checked wiring multiple times. Turn signal works brake lights work but car will not start. Just a council and alternator gauge moves to C. Thought I had a weak battery so charged it and tested it. Still no start. I’m at a complete loss and ideas?
No crank? No starter engagement? You'll want to start checking things as if this has nothing to do with the turn signal switch. If the battery is good, perhaps check to see if the starter solenoid is getting power from the ignition switch.
@@AlfsMustangGarage let me apologize for not proof reading my earlier reply. Where I said just a council. What I meant to type was just as soon as I go to start it alternator gauge moves to C and I get a click.. I just tried the old trick of bypassing the solenoid to get it started and it fired right up. So I’m guessing it’s either the solenoid or the switch at this point?
@@AlfsMustangGarage so you will never believe what has happened. I replaced the solenoid and she fired right up. Ready for the kicker? Turn signals stopped working. Still have running lights. Emergency flasher blinks for one sec before they just stop. Checked fuse and it looks good but will replace that this afternoon. You don’t think it could be the turn signal switch do you? Can you link me the right turn signal switch for a 67 with fixed column? Also going to replace the flasher as well. Hoping that’s my issue. Thoughts?
@@AlfsMustangGarage I have a 1966 and I have figured out the steering wheel hub doesn’t work with the 66 switch set up. My steering hub is the 67-69 style. 1 pin on the cam that interfaces into the hub which turns the cam to flip the two ears. I’m going to have to do some research on my options
@@AlfsMustangGarage thanks for replying. I watched that one but didn’t see the turn signal flasher * (sorry not switch) mentioned. Would that ever cause a one brake light problem?
Oh ya you must have missed that part. So I'm not sure what year you're working with but on this 67 the brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch where it splits off to go left and right back to the brake lights.
I know you have the wire chart. I put a new turn signal harness in my 67. Now my left turn signal, and the left side 4 way don't work. They did before. What color wire do I need to check?
@Alf's Mustang Garage just a FYI, what my problem was, is the wire in the connector coming from main wire harness.......the metal male prong was loose and falling out of the plug. I had to push it back into the plug. And now everything works as it should. Just something people may want to look for if they scratch their heads.
Great video. I really enjoyed it. Really informative. I have a 1969 and have replaced the turn signal cam too.
Awesome! Thank you!
Great video. Just found it and had to replace the switch on my ‘67 Mustang this past weekend. I found if you remove two screws holding the shroud on the column, it give access to the tunnel to feed all ten wires down the column at the same time. Worked great for me. Also, cutting the wires from the old connector a few inches longer makes it easier to match the old to the new. Like you, next time I’m buying a new connector instead of cutting/soldering/heat shrinking the wires because I could get the old wires to release from the connector.
Oh very nice. We love learning new tricks. I will have to remember that next time for sure. Thank you.
Do you know where to get the connector that the ten turn signals wire go into? Thanks very much.
Nice video. I've replaced several T/S switches on newer vehicles. When I did my 67, I didn't run the wires through the column. Thought they ran out of the upper collar then in. Nope. Thanks for the video. Time to redo and do it like yours.
Oh cool, you're very welcome.
Good video - I have done auto electrical work for years on various makes, though not on Mustangs. I already checked the brake light switch, but could not find a wiring diagram quickly. This video told me that current to brake lights runs through the turn signal switch connector. Similar to some other makes, though this verified it. Thanks!
You're very welcome!
THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS
You're very welcome!
Incase anyone needs new connectors (10) wire they are: c5cz-14489-A, connector for turn signal wires, and c5sz-14489B, connector plug from dash harness. New pins c4az-14461A 14-16-18 gauge. Plug connectors are $4.95 ea, and the pins are 0.80 a piece. CJ Pony or Mustangs Etc. CJ is much higher. FYI hope this helps someone. Cheers.
Thank you Robert!
Also, if you need the "cam" that cancels, available at NPD #13318-3A $3.71 and the Pin removal tool #957-2 $15.10 at National Parts Depot also. Switch plug connector #14489-4A (10 pin) is $5.92 FYI
I like seeing that car come back. 😄
Customer for life 👍
Future wise when cutting the wires that are inside the column leave one or two wires uncut and cut that wire at the switch. This leaves you with a wire(s) to pull the new wires down and out of the column.
Good tip, thank you.
Great video, I’ll be replacing my T/S switch soon. What was the problem with yours? The plastic cracks or the cam is worn/crack. Just looking to diagnose a right turn intermittent action. Thanks
This particular case, it wasn't sending power down to one of the brake lights.
What color wires went where? That is important to know as well especially if someone messed the the whole thing up.
I tried tackling this today on my 68. The turn signals wouldnt lock in place and after taking off the steering wheel i noticed both hooks on the cam were broken. Ordered a replacent from Amazon (Dorman) and changed out the cam but the hooks grab too well. When I turn the steering to cancel it pops off the center plastic piece so tomorrow Im going to shave the hooks a bit see if that helps
Oh ya I've tried just doing the turn signal cam replacement before. I find it far more effective to replace the entire switch.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I know what you mean but since I have quite a ways to go Im trying to save a buck. Cam was only $12, but if it doesnt work out I'll eventually get the whole switch.👍
Does the 67 have a lock nut for the steering wheel, like a 5/8?
All cars should have a lock nut for the steering wheel.
I have a 64 falcon Sprint with stock suspension setup. What is the max tire size and wheel offset without interference and rubbing
So when I slide the plate on the shaft there’s a decent gap between the horn contacts and plate. Any ideas on how to correct?
I just replaced my switch on my 67 and have checked wiring multiple times. Turn signal works brake lights work but car will not start. Just a council and alternator gauge moves to C. Thought I had a weak battery so charged it and tested it. Still no start. I’m at a complete loss and ideas?
No crank? No starter engagement? You'll want to start checking things as if this has nothing to do with the turn signal switch. If the battery is good, perhaps check to see if the starter solenoid is getting power from the ignition switch.
@@AlfsMustangGarage let me apologize for not proof reading my earlier reply. Where I said just a council. What I meant to type was just as soon as I go to start it alternator gauge moves to C and I get a click.. I just tried the old trick of bypassing the solenoid to get it started and it fired right up. So I’m guessing it’s either the solenoid or the switch at this point?
Oh ya if the S terminal on the solenoid is getting power with key turned in start position, then that solenoid is probably done for.
@@AlfsMustangGarage so you will never believe what has happened. I replaced the solenoid and she fired right up. Ready for the kicker? Turn signals stopped working. Still have running lights. Emergency flasher blinks for one sec before they just stop. Checked fuse and it looks good but will replace that this afternoon. You don’t think it could be the turn signal switch do you? Can you link me the right turn signal switch for a 67 with fixed column? Also going to replace the flasher as well. Hoping that’s my issue. Thoughts?
Help! The little turn signal cancel cam with the pin where can I get that? My project is missing it and I can’t find it.
I don't know where to get that other than buying a whole new turn signal switch.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I have a 1966 and I have figured out the steering wheel hub doesn’t work with the 66 switch set up. My steering hub is the 67-69 style. 1 pin on the cam that interfaces into the hub which turns the cam to flip the two ears. I’m going to have to do some research on my options
Is there ever a time to also test the turn signal switch? Curious how you knew that wasn’t the problem
ruclips.net/video/X724Dgwx8Xs/видео.html
This video shows my diagnostic steps on how I condemned the turn signal switch.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thanks for replying. I watched that one but didn’t see the turn signal flasher * (sorry not switch) mentioned. Would that ever cause a one brake light problem?
Oh ya you must have missed that part. So I'm not sure what year you're working with but on this 67 the brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch where it splits off to go left and right back to the brake lights.
For my 67 OEM steering wheel, I can't get the bolts to start for the steering wheel puller. What size bolt should it take? I may need to tap them out.
You know, I can't remember the size. I know they are a fine thread bolt though.
@Alf's Mustang Garage how about I just ship my mustang to you, and my list of to do's. Lol. It would be a great project for your channel.
Oh ya that would be awesome 👌
@Alf's Mustang Garage I'm in Ohio. Want me to ship it to you? Or do you want to come pick it up? Lol
Well if this is something you're serious about then you should give me a call at the shop.
I know you have the wire chart. I put a new turn signal harness in my 67. Now my left turn signal, and the left side 4 way don't work. They did before. What color wire do I need to check?
Green with white tracer is left front. Green with orange tracer is left rear.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thank you sir
@Alf's Mustang Garage just a FYI, what my problem was, is the wire in the connector coming from main wire harness.......the metal male prong was loose and falling out of the plug. I had to push it back into the plug. And now everything works as it should. Just something people may want to look for if they scratch their heads.
Oh ya thank you for the update. Those little things like that will get the best of ya sometimes.
My question is how do I get the big original horn button off my 67 mustang?
Push down in the center and twist to the left.
@@AlfsMustangGarage got it! Thanks!
How long should it take to replace the unit?
2 hours or so. Every Mustang will have its own unique challenges.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thank You! Glad I found you.
👍
Thank you sir
18:42 in the video that plastic cam
What is the part # for the harness?
I have links to the parts in the description.
@@AlfsMustangGarage but you said I should of bought the harness piece foe $5.00. That way I don't have to pull the pins out.
Oh ya you can buy the plastic connector. You can get them from National Parts Depot.