Literally just bought this kit as my first build. Put it on a Nel Lusso. After assembly I was able to get 39.2 mph on flat ground. I weigh 190 with a 44t. I haven’t even used the high performance carb yet and this thing is a screamer. Definitely needs balancing on the crank though. As well as a 36t sprocket with hub adapter. Next build will be a mountain bike with a stock Zeda 80 and jack shift kit. I ride this thing 40 miles a day to work. Love every second of it. Low to mid power is great but mid to top end this thing comes alive. I actually put the stock pipe on it and got a little better low end tq but lost a little on the top. Swapped for the banana unit. Love this thing though.
did you have to use the adapter or will the motor fit directly on the frame? I'm looking at the exact same combo for my first. I wiegh 140 on a good day and live in flat country so I'll use the 36 T. I'm psyched.
Hey Alex, That's the g4 cylinder. I have modded mine to work with a gt5 type bottom. The exhaust is timed great and all I did to mildly port it is to remove inside the exhaust port the upper corners wider and taper the port shape into a upside down trapzoid. The cylinder does have sharp burrs inside ports. Remove these and they actually work good.
Can someone explain if this engine is 66cc or 80cc? I don’t know but from what I’ve heard the 80CC means 80 Chinese centimeters which converts to 66cc for us in America
I'm thinking about getting a bike and motor from bike berry but I don't know what engine to get I'm thinking about either the BBR stage 4 or the phantom 85 cc I went speed and don't really care about acceleration
Caleb Cornea I bought the regular kits off of amazon. You can find all those extra parts for cheaper and basically you just replace the hardware and you’re all set
@@freshjuice9352 That assumes the buyer knows what to order and what parts of a kit work together. You could get parts cheaper by ordering direct from china too. The chinese word for service is spelled the same as sucker. I got the 4 stroke kit from bike berry, a couple of parts were missing or damaged, they sent new parts right out. I'm having a ball with it doing snowmobile trails up here in northern Maine.
i only use Bikeberry for the fact that the warranty is good. Every time I have had a problem with a part not working or broke, they will ship a new one completely free out to me and I don't have to ship broken one back. Might just be getting lucky that they are willing to do it but that peace of mind is worth the extra to me.
Very cool engine. Something I wouldn't expect from bike berry; only because I had order a chain tensioner from them and they left all the hardware out. Then I called them about it and they sent me hardware that was too long. But hey, their engine kit doesn't look all to bad. Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to see it in action!
i drill straight through the chain tensioner and the frame and put a bolt through and make a custom bracket to hold the wheel in one spot AFTER the chain has been stretched and re adjusted 1-2 times depending on how i feel about the chain.
Same here! Half link comes in handy during adjustments. The way I mount the chain tensioner...the tensioner wheel is never slid. It's bottomed out in slot. When chain gets loose enough. I take a link out sometimes a half links required until next adjustment needed. RIGHT AND TIGHT..There is no give when torque is applied to drive tran. Upgrade the wheel on wheel tensioner to a rollerblade wheel grooved out,is my next experiment. These rollers on tensioner with the kit wear out fast!
@@camswee7530 AH HA!! Great idea! I've bought chains at the moto shop...never crossed my mind to check for tensioner wheels! New shopping list!! Thanks! This info can Save me the work of grinding the center of the roller blade wheel out! 👍
built my own high pin piston engine with iron liner non ported jug runs like a dirt bike. stock runtong carb and jet I am at sea level a 7cc fred head MZ pipe no reed runs amazing, great low speed torque, spins a 39 or 36 tooth sprocket wonderfully. cost me like $100 for all the new parts. once engine fires no pedaling needed engine pulls you right along, accelerates like a boss.
@@killercodplays all over, MZ Miami is local for me Ebay supplies items as well. the secret with these engines is round holes and correct assembly and usage. put 80 miles on mine today. 10/36 gearing is as tall as I want for city use, 10/39 is nice when you have a 30mph head wind 10/36 not so nice..
@@killercodplays The MZ motorized bicycle retailer is 30 miles away from me I buy parts there and from other sources too. just got off my bike now clocked it at 41mph had more but I was happy.
I actually prefer those 2 bolt chain tensioners as they seem beefier. I just drill out 4 more bolt holes in each corner and they become a 6 bolt super clamp on model. My next experiment will be to wrap the chain stay with i little skate board grip tape. I aslo thought that might work for hub adapter slipage.
No Champion...hands down have the most accurate heat ranges & never foul...speaking from 50 years of experience.Cheers Trev New Zealand 🇳🇿😇home of the world's fastest old Indian 🇳🇿
Hey Dude, You got a true piston port inlet system after run it top off to it near the maximum limit you add some reed valves but do not change the piston porting system here is why you do not. When if these reed valves are large enough, to not limit top end flow rates, they will give you great low-end power too. Effectually widening the power band without detuning the over-all power band. You see at low RPMs the piston port will pray out inlet volume which disrupts the flow through the carburetor this is due to back and forth flow over the jets when high enough causes over-enrichment of inlet charges while also lowering the total volume of the inlet charge. Also, the middle power band gets a boost wich getts better as the rpm gat higher right up to and including. Please test this on a trusted dynameter both before adding and after adding the reed valves. And you will see for your self what I'm talking about I saw on your channel one that would fit the bill it just bolts to inlet port. Mine engine had true piston porting and with a good aftermarket set of Expansion chambers got 87 hp @ 7840 rpm at total 492 cc then I bolted on the reed valves it engine got a full 121 hp crank gear 108 hp at the out shaft of the transmission and 99 hp on the ground bottom of the rear wheel. with the two reed valves set on the bike, I could power up in 5th gear all the way to pegging the 140 mph max speedometer using a total gear ratio 4:1 in 5th gear with no super launch type power at and around 3500 rpm but you feel the power come on there at 3500 rpm. Plus you could near idle rev's less than 1Krpms all day around the park to enjoy the shady trees and cool winds off the San Antonio River, all without overheating and while later win fast start races against nearly full out hop-up rods 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile, 1/2 mile, 1/1 mile, and top end one pint fuel runs mostly 6 miles plus at run out clutch out downshifts down to neutral rolls to stop gasoline high test and winning every time too. I got 154000 miles before the rings got bad never a piston after the final set up was all completed. The only motorcycles that would beat my 317 lbs empty weight GT 500 @ 492 cc twin were the triples 2cycle two Kawa's ie: the 500cc triple 750cc triple and Suzuki 750 cc triple "water buffaloes" all of these were well tuned. But none ever beat the economy runs if they could beat me on the speed runs. SO! I had the best of both all in one bike without turning a wrench other than normal PM's and always checking for loose fittings, which is something every cyclist rally should do. This true and factual. All the tuning arts are always beat by low-end torque, which the total product of piston porting with reed valves to properly stop that backwashing at low-revs. THE TRICK IS; getting the reed valves large enough to not limit full flow, yet compacted enough to really limit the backwashing, well at least at a minimum. This system will break sparkplugs insulators due to DETONATION TRICK here is do not cylinder ports up to the magic 180 degrees but to jack-up the whole cylinder barrel to the magic 180 degrees and to keep the lower compression ratio. You do all the right things use real Aviation 200 octane gasoline even advance the spark timing to around 3 degrees to 6 degrees depending on the elevation of the runs use altimeter controlling carburetors you got the winning combination.
@@bigdevil1310 it's not hard you'll feel better when it's done. Just be careful don't take too much off the top of the exhaust or the bottom of the intake.
Stage 4 Bull shnit maybe. Kinda how they measure tornadoes and earth quakes. Cept a lot more smelly and long term exposure will cause pink eye septicemia. .. Yeah thats the difference
There's a guy/shop in Montana (I think) that actually cleans up the burrs, machines the rod and case for roller bearings instead of plain bushings, and does a lot more work to them. The engine is called Little Demon or something like that. Cost is like 500 bucks, but you get what you pay for. I almost bought one for my build but wasn't sure about clearance for it on an 07 Iron Horse Maverick 4.0 suspension bike. Instead I mounted a Poulan/Husqvarna 42cc chainsaw engine. I modified the centrifugal clutch to accept 420 chain and tried to use the rear derailleur to have 3 gears. I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS. The bike would easily go 60+ mph but scary as hell. Especially when the chain bound up and tore the derailleur off. Single speed now 😂.
What do you do about the casting burrs? Should you file them? Use a file? Do you need to clean with some carb cleaner after or wipe with an oil/gas covered rag? If you could explain or point me to a video where someone does this that would be very helpful!
I purchased the same stage 4 about 2 yrs ago my piston is black on top was used to flat land in Florida and didn’t break it in more than 75 miles put 1500 mi atleast I’m replacing my rings and already ordered 5 sets ring better deal and my clutch lever and cable broke just routine maintenance on the several motorized bicycles I have it mounted to a 26 1/2 inch DVR tuning motorized bicycle frame with the gas tank built in it And had to modify the frame mounting a bit new to the bigger size motor studs in the front other than that I love my bike thinking of getting a shift kit put on sure on how to do it with that bike considering it only has one gear on the pedal side
Im running same motor not a bbr thou I found the barrel will shed bits of material from small castings in barrel and score it had no marks in piston but a lot in the barrel so you make the call. I did have a lot hp at the bottom.
Stupidly overpriced for the actual hp numbers they do. Zeda Motorsports gives you the best bang for your buck and definitely can provide you with the highest output motor for the money
Silenced9 Trujillo Go to Zeda Motorsports website. You can buy anything you could possibly want for a China motor and they can add upgraded crank bearings, better gaskets, better seals, better clutch springs you name it anything you want. Check out their Facebook too. Lots of great information to help you with your bike
@@Oli420X They took about a month to ship my chain tensioner after they forgot to ship it the first time , Motor arrived in a week and a half , had to send an email to them twice telling them to ship the missing part , it still hasn't been shipped 4 weeks later just a tracking number was made, customer service is a joke , kits are overpriced as well , just get a zeda 80 and mod that or get a high performance zeda motorsports engine for the same price with double the power and torque
Unfortunate, no one is immune to bad experiences. This is where recovering fumbles really counts. I bought a greatly under priced electric wheel .motor from or thru Wish that was too good to be true. Sure enough. I was right. It never came. Never could locate a customer service number. Whar I learned, always employ tracking and always locate customer service when you order anything.
My first MB engine was an older bolt together Z/L rod crank that ran a few thousand miles before it had a air leak. built a AF80 rod high hole engine and that engine makes better power than the Z/L rod engine IMHO Tried at least 4 different jugs on the Z/L rod and none made the power the high hole piston does now. seems like the timing and port locations are better suited for the high hole piston and crank setup. The cylinder shown in the video here is the same cylinder I have but with an iron liner and the transfer ports traditional style not open like the jug in the video. I am impressed with the iron liner over the coated jugs.
You need to try the chain tensioner that hooks to the motor on the bucking plate cover I have had not had one single problem with the spring loaded tensioner I put a bigger spring on there and his works awesome with no chain lock
I've got the arch style with a lawnmower deck pulley . No deceleration backlash after the spring gets tired , and my pulley won't wear out anytime soon . Wish I could share a pic
hey Alex do you want to see a pic p80 from bikeberry strip down I just ripped my old huffy 3.0 motor complete you down to their Scott it's on RUclips can you like to take look
Get some 1" or larger shrink tubing and lay it flat to the frame and it will cushion the tank very well and help cut down vibrations to the tank, as well.
Get the larger stud tank too" the regular ones tend to bend /leek from over torqued to keep it from sliding around as well if you don't have a tank frame
ive had their stage 1 and i thought it was gonna be junk but its been the best engine ive ever had, and ive had 3 others... but ive bought other stuff from bikeberry that wasnt as descibed... it just seems like the quality differs each time you buy from them, not consistent at all and i couldnt reach any support at all.
I had a problem with Bikeberry when I ordered a "SPEED" Carb. They sent me a stock NT carb with a red air filter cover. The "SPEED" carb has a separate fuel valve and uses a banjo fitting. When confronting them about this, they told me the only difference was jetting. We all know this is incorrect. Throat and slide size is the difference. So you are right, their knowledge depends on who you talk to. A bit pricey at $24.95 + shipping for a stock NT carb.
Mine got older tonight and it should be here in 4 days this will be my second motor I had ordered the Dewey from uMoto. And right off the rip it was a disaster I got everything put together it wouldn't start for me about a week and a half to figure out what it was well I guess the factory didn't tighten up the clutch now I got it running finally will three or four days after that it broke down again you got it running for about 3 or 4 days I don't think I even put 200 miles on that bike or that motor and s*** the Piston rings broke. It said broke down 4 days out of the week so I said the hell with it and I'm going to head and ordered me the bbr tuning 80cc
I got one of these and i make extreme power once i broke it in but my magneto didnt work the first time and ordered a black one and it works wonderfully
@@jkoeberlein1 im heard that before. I know what a reed valve is. I grew up under a car. Now a retired mechanical contractor. Tell us about this "reed valve". Are we talking about intake and exhaust or what?
@@darwanwinkler4125 we use the Reed valve on the intake in conjunction with a exhaust chamber. You have to fiddle with the port timing. I leave this with my nephew, he's the Wizz at this.
@@jkoeberlein1 i see.. thanks that gives me a clue as to what and where its employed. Somehow it aids in larger fuel bites as I dont see how it capable supply .ore air.
@@darwanwinkler4125 the theory as i understand it since there are no valves the as the piston comes up it pushes some of the fuel air mixture back out the intake. The expansion chamber uses the sound impulse from the exhaust and it gets bounced back into the chamber using most of the unburnt fuel. When your port timing is right, the reed valve gives more torque and expansion chamber gives more topend. If you want a better and probably more correct explanation read up on 1970s Yamaha two stroke engines. Personally I believe they are the best two stroke engines ever.
Your banana pipe the end where the exhaust exits it's is angled different than the one I received from bbr mine come out straight not to the side and way good video
My petcock fuel valve has started to leak at the connection at the tank. It came apart once and needs replacing. Where can I find one? I checked BBR. They're out. Also, are they mostly universal in size? If so, what's the size? I have a standard tank from a stock nonracing kit. I also have one coming in exactly like the one you have in that kit.
the website advertises this as only 3hp? how such a low amount of HP out of an 80cc? some of my 1/5th scale RC cars are only 30cc and produce over 4hp...
It's not the chain. I don't think it is. The drive gear just slowly grinds to a hult when i start the motor. I thought it was clutch not adjusted right. I can free up the drive and get ir spinning but the same thing keeps happening. There was no problem starting my bike.
Use your clutch bro... there’s always that extra lever for a reason, and if you’re still having a hard time starting your bike... just sell it and get yourself a moped.
Kiajimbo DaMoFkr will it start? Could have overheated and blown a head it makes the piston stick and be harder to move in the cylinder making it very very hard to run if run at all needs new head and piston or bore
@@MotoredLife got one I blew it up and there is no way I could have gotten 75 mph out of that I am going to rebuild it and it is quick way to fast for a Walmart bike but 75? No way.
Which motor kit is the best performance racing engine for a bike I want my bike to go fast have some power I just don't know which one to buy I just been searching and looking at every single one I can think of and I just don't know which one should I get and I don't want to spend money on something it's not going to be what I'm looking for.
e bay/amazon... $45? i thought that is what i saw them for on E bay? that was 2 + years ago though. shipping is high on things like that as they wont fit in flat rate box and flat rate box isnt $5 anymore it is $15++
That stinger pipe going all the way in is not a restriction. Its a very good way of muffling the sound without affecting the performance. Please dont spread misinformation.
Banana pipes are nowhere near real expansion Chambers and do nothing for these engines so I wouldn't even call that a Stinger at the end! Lol I do really appreciate you watching Blind8686
Motored Life banana pipe IS an expansion chamber, (although not a very good one). That pipe at end (call ot stinger or not) is sticking inside for a very good reason and is not a restriction. If you were to remove the section that sticks inside the chamber, only thing you would gain is noise.
@@blind8686 yep that about sums it up! And you are exactly right the Stinger inner diameter need to be smaller than the header inner diameter to get that back pressure action to push that gas in their back of the engine. This very particular style of expansion chamber from a couple years ago had a pipe at the end that was welded and at the wrong angle and it's literally touching the back of the pipe just caused the outlet hole to only be about the diameter of a pea.
Do you have any tips on making a stock bike faster? Besides upgrading? I'm trying to make my bike faster without spending any extra money so far I've raised the needle in the carb altered the muffler slightly and put bigger fuel lines and a Ram Air intake trying to see the most I can get out of it now then probably throw upgrades on it later if anyone has any good ideas or tips
look for videos on simple polishing the ports with any dremo tool - easy and cheap improvement - muffler baffles removed lowers backpressure and some argue it makes them faster others argue that a two stroke needs some back pressure - i have 2 bikes - one with and one without baffles - - BE CAREFUL WITH LEANING THEM OUT TOO MUCH (raising the pin on the needlevalve in the carb)- even though I know better from flying small airplanes with fuel mixture knob in the cockpit and a temp gauge that tells you what the mix is doing, i just burned either the piston or cylinder head in one of mine from running too fast and lean too long - grrrrr - good luck
e bay/amazon... welder make one if have measurements for him and he has the tube. i seen the stands... on e bay? seemed kinda pricey for what they are... $50? $45? but are made to fit the engine and shipped. shipping is not cheap as i thought it was... none of that $5 flat rate box for that. its too big so ... $15 plus tax or more just for shipping to anywhere by USPS, more for UPS?
You should cut one of those high performance CDI‘s and a regular one in half I haven’t seen a video yet it’s like the mystery is it really better check the wire and cut them in half and find out
@The Bushwacker yea this guy is a idiot all this hand talking and going on on the same thing ...just get on with the video...he does great things with the bike stuff he just talks too much
Lol...at least I’m not the only one that finds this guys videos annoying for this very reason. He has great enthusiasm and I enjoy his positive personality...but he takes forever to open each box and/or get to the actual point of why we’re watching...to see the stuff he’s gonna show us. He reaches towards it..then retracts his reach...then reaches again...then retracts again...then blabs a bit about it...but doesn’t really say anything relevant...then a few more “reach/retract” motions....and all I can do is shout “Just open the dang box already!!!!” He has cools things that I’d like to know more about...but he always loses me within a few minutes...just too painful.
Just wanted to find out if a upgraded cdi is most important if I want to get started with a fully stock engine plus would you order these types of engine from online stores like wish ?
If you dont have the huge 6 petal reed cylinder, the stock NT carb is the absolute Best unless you have the expertise to convert to a chainsaw style diaphragm carb.
no they're fine. Open transfer ports are an older style 2 stroke wise actually, but its making a comeback because its cheaper to manufacture and just as reliable a system. Lots of utility engines use open transfer ports, they work fine, and the ring gaps are away from these openings, so shouldn't be an issue more than any other engine. If you need to clean up the ports, its defective manufacturing. Sometimes it happens on these bike motors though. Alot more top end power with 4 transfer port open setup like that. Looks great to me..
Can anyone please help? I have an 80cc pedal and pop. I was riding around as normal then i pull in the clutch and for some reason it revvs up so much...?
I have no experience with chain drive and friction drive has its own advantages but where chain drive wins every time is when the streets are wet. Shuts you down completely other than that wears cheap tires out in a few weeks of riding every day.
Can these jugs be 'bored out', to accept a larger diameter piston? And if so, how far could one go regarding size? My intent is to make it a true 80cc engine, if possible...
good as any. same manufactureres... in china... different mfgs making teh same thing. yes port cleanup. oil torque the head bolts to proper torque. oil linkages etc. re torque bolts often as the vibration makes bolts/nuts fall off
My bike pedals in sync with engine speed. I have a Rohloff speed 500-14, gxh50 rear friction drive, front 1500w 48v hub. Can you touch on pedalling in sync with engine speed? eROCKIT mode!
This motor does look awesome.. but my question is... which motor do you personally recommend for *reliability* I’m into reliability.. and I’m a light guy so it doesn’t take a whole lot to get me moving at high speeds anyways with just a small sprocket upgrade
Hi Thanks for interesting videos. The "racing" carb is nothing special. That is a copy of an Italian carb that is used for most of the agriculture equipment made in Italy. It is just simpler than the stock carburetor as at least the stock have some needle setting! Do you have problems with the crank wearing out quickly. I have that all the time with the con rod bigend hole.
Years of experience have taught me that NGK is the best sparkplug you can buy. Not just OK. The best.
Iridium ?
I use a Old rusty Champion Sparkplug for my engine bikes and it works really well
I prefer e3, no sizing and much better
Literally just bought this kit as my first build. Put it on a Nel Lusso. After assembly I was able to get 39.2 mph on flat ground. I weigh 190 with a 44t. I haven’t even used the high performance carb yet and this thing is a screamer. Definitely needs balancing on the crank though. As well as a 36t sprocket with hub adapter. Next build will be a mountain bike with a stock Zeda 80 and jack shift kit. I ride this thing 40 miles a day to work. Love every second of it. Low to mid power is great but mid to top end this thing comes alive. I actually put the stock pipe on it and got a little better low end tq but lost a little on the top. Swapped for the banana unit. Love this thing though.
nice! max speed?
did you have to use the adapter or will the motor fit directly on the frame? I'm looking at the exact same combo for my first. I wiegh 140 on a good day and live in flat country so I'll use the 36 T. I'm psyched.
@@skipstalforce I weigh 190 and I use the 32 tooth sprocket and it does just fine even on steep hills
Hey Alex,
That's the g4 cylinder. I have modded mine to work with a gt5 type bottom. The exhaust is timed great and all I did to mildly port it is to remove inside the exhaust port the upper corners wider and taper the port shape into a upside down trapzoid. The cylinder does have sharp burrs inside ports. Remove these and they actually work good.
I have to say, this motor kit FOR ME! IS BEST BIKE KIT IVE LEARNED TO STAY WITH SINCE I STARTED THIS HOBBIE!!!!! very reliable! And long lasting!
building my first motto bike. watching everything Ican
Hit me up if you have any questions along the way!
I think they should have cleaned up the ports before they sell em especially for the price of a high performance engine do better bbr.
Keep in mind its bikeberry. Theyre hardly able to make a how to video properly let alone build an engine
Bikeberry is a warehouse
@@samhain6953 pretty much yea. Import an engine, change a few bits, add 5hp with stickers and sell it on
True I got one still haven't got it to start I've had it built for 4 months now
Motored life channel is a good resource for all bike problem
Can someone explain if this engine is 66cc or 80cc? I don’t know but from what I’ve heard the 80CC means 80 Chinese centimeters which converts to 66cc for us in America
I'm thinking about getting a bike and motor from bike berry but I don't know what engine to get I'm thinking about either the BBR stage 4 or the phantom 85 cc I went speed and don't really care about acceleration
Bbr is a scam bro. They have the same engine that every kit does they just slap their sticker on it and charge extra
Did you buy one
Caleb Cornea I bought the regular kits off of amazon. You can find all those extra parts for cheaper and basically you just replace the hardware and you’re all set
@@freshjuice9352 That assumes the buyer knows what to order and what parts of a kit work together.
You could get parts cheaper by ordering direct from china too.
The chinese word for service is spelled the same as sucker.
I got the 4 stroke kit from bike berry, a couple of parts were missing or damaged, they sent new parts right out. I'm having a ball with it doing snowmobile trails up here in northern Maine.
i only use Bikeberry for the fact that the warranty is good. Every time I have had a problem with a part not working or broke, they will ship a new one completely free out to me and I don't have to ship broken one back. Might just be getting lucky that they are willing to do it but that peace of mind is worth the extra to me.
@@gerardjones7881 the bbr kit says that the bikes wheels should be 26' is that exact or can it be a larger wheel?
Very cool engine. Something I wouldn't expect from bike berry; only because I had order a chain tensioner from them and they left all the hardware out. Then I called them about it and they sent me hardware that was too long.
But hey, their engine kit doesn't look all to bad. Thanks for sharing. Can't wait to see it in action!
i drill straight through the chain tensioner and the frame and put a bolt through and make a custom bracket to hold the wheel in one spot AFTER the chain has been stretched and re adjusted 1-2 times depending on how i feel about the chain.
Same here! Half link comes in handy during adjustments. The way I mount the chain tensioner...the tensioner wheel is never slid. It's bottomed out in slot. When chain gets loose enough. I take a link out sometimes a half links required until next adjustment needed. RIGHT AND TIGHT..There is no give when torque is applied to drive tran. Upgrade the wheel on wheel tensioner to a rollerblade wheel grooved out,is my next experiment. These rollers on tensioner with the kit wear out fast!
@@a1driver4hire37 i goto a dirtbike/atv/bike shop and buy wheel tensioners for actual bikes and they last a long time
@@camswee7530 AH HA!! Great idea! I've bought chains at the moto shop...never crossed my mind to check for tensioner wheels! New shopping list!! Thanks! This info can Save me the work of grinding the center of the roller blade wheel out! 👍
@@a1driver4hire37 😄
These engine kit unboxing videos all look like the warehouse workers play football with the boxes
Phantom 85 baby sickest Motorized engine out right now
built my own high pin piston engine with iron liner non ported jug runs like a dirt bike. stock runtong carb and jet I am at sea level a 7cc fred head MZ pipe no reed runs amazing, great low speed torque, spins a 39 or 36 tooth sprocket wonderfully. cost me like $100 for all the new parts. once engine fires no pedaling needed engine pulls you right along, accelerates like a boss.
Where did you get all the parts
@@killercodplays all over, MZ Miami is local for me Ebay supplies items as well. the secret with these engines is round holes and correct assembly and usage. put 80 miles on mine today. 10/36 gearing is as tall as I want for city use, 10/39 is nice when you have a 30mph head wind 10/36 not so nice..
Is it a motorized bike engine you built or a different one
@@killercodplays bought all seperate parts and assembled it over one weekend.
@@killercodplays The MZ motorized bicycle retailer is 30 miles away from me I buy parts there and from other sources too. just got off my bike now clocked it at 41mph had more but I was happy.
I wann see someone put 2 of these engines on a tandem bike ....
This has to happen now
I wanna buy my next kit from this guy..
a homeade tandem bike .useing a jackshaft if necessary...its possible ....
Haven't seen one with two gas motors but I've seen them with two motors and two batteries (electric tandem)
Donate the engines and I'll do it. It would be fun to build.
I actually prefer those 2 bolt chain tensioners as they seem beefier. I just drill out 4 more bolt holes in each corner and they become a 6 bolt super clamp on model. My next experiment will be to wrap the chain stay with i little skate board grip tape. I aslo thought that might work for hub adapter slipage.
No Champion...hands down have the most accurate heat ranges & never foul...speaking from 50 years of experience.Cheers Trev New Zealand 🇳🇿😇home of the world's fastest old Indian 🇳🇿
Hey Dude, You got a true piston port inlet system after run it top off to it near the maximum limit you add some reed valves but do not change the piston porting system here is why you do not. When if these reed valves are large enough, to not limit top end flow rates, they will give you great low-end power too. Effectually widening the power band without detuning the over-all power band. You see at low RPMs the piston port will pray out inlet volume which disrupts the flow through the carburetor this is due to back and forth flow over the jets when high enough causes over-enrichment of inlet charges while also lowering the total volume of the inlet charge. Also, the middle power band gets a boost wich getts better as the rpm gat higher right up to and including. Please test this on a trusted dynameter both before adding and after adding the reed valves. And you will see for your self what I'm talking about I saw on your channel one that would fit the bill it just bolts to inlet port. Mine engine had true piston porting and with a good aftermarket set of Expansion chambers got 87 hp @ 7840 rpm at total 492 cc then I bolted on the reed valves it engine got a full 121 hp crank gear 108 hp at the out shaft of the transmission and 99 hp on the ground bottom of the rear wheel. with the two reed valves set on the bike, I could power up in 5th gear all the way to pegging the 140 mph max speedometer using a total gear ratio 4:1 in 5th gear with no super launch type power at and around 3500 rpm but you feel the power come on there at 3500 rpm. Plus you could near idle rev's less than 1Krpms all day around the park to enjoy the shady trees and cool winds off the San Antonio River, all without overheating and while later win fast start races against nearly full out hop-up rods 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile, 1/2 mile, 1/1 mile, and top end one pint fuel runs mostly 6 miles plus at run out clutch out downshifts down to neutral rolls to stop gasoline high test and winning every time too. I got 154000 miles before the rings got bad never a piston after the final set up was all completed.
The only motorcycles that would beat my 317 lbs empty weight GT 500 @ 492 cc twin were the triples 2cycle two Kawa's ie: the 500cc triple 750cc triple and Suzuki 750 cc triple "water buffaloes" all of these were well tuned. But none ever beat the economy runs if they could beat me on the speed runs. SO! I had the best of both all in one bike without turning a wrench other than normal PM's and always checking for loose fittings, which is something every cyclist rally should do.
This true and factual. All the tuning arts are always beat by low-end torque, which the total product of piston porting with reed valves to properly stop that backwashing at low-revs. THE TRICK IS; getting the reed valves large enough to not limit full flow, yet compacted enough to really limit the backwashing, well at least at a minimum. This system will break sparkplugs insulators due to DETONATION TRICK here is do not cylinder ports up to the magic 180 degrees but to jack-up the whole cylinder barrel to the magic 180 degrees and to keep the lower compression ratio. You do all the right things use real Aviation 200 octane gasoline even advance the spark timing to around 3 degrees to 6 degrees depending on the elevation of the runs use altimeter controlling carburetors you got the winning combination.
Full off crap m8 u dnt even know wat ur on about
I see someone didnt pay attention in school when they tought simple grammar and how to structure a sentence. Or the person is 8 years old.
What exactly does it mean by stage 1, stage 2, 3, 4....what are the differences?
if only i had such a motored bike scene in new zealand your vids is as close as i can get to on hand information much respect
Go on eBay you can find them on there....🙂
It's a g 4 cylinder "JL" with open transfer ports and a bridged exhaust. I remove the bridge in the exhaust when porting.
I made the exaust port wider in the insideto port match it. but didnt take out the bridge is that still fine
@@bigdevil1310 of course it's not mandatory to remove the bridge it's just heavily constricted with that bridge. That bridge is totally not necessary.
@@JamesPiccone more porting to do then
@@bigdevil1310 it's not hard you'll feel better when it's done. Just be careful don't take too much off the top of the exhaust or
the bottom of the intake.
@@JamesPiccone how much is to much of the bottom of the intake
At what stage do they throw a 4 speed transmission in at? That's the one I'm waiting for.
Motorized bikes have to be one speed to be legal.
At least an over drive for cruising
@@MotoredLife what about the torque converters does that make them illeagal
Throws coil on ground like garbage..
Great Mr Alex they disamble of bike berry stafe 4 ,thanks keep sharing more ,& testing.
And what’s stage 4 about it?
😂😂😂
But didn't u see that filter though! Haha
Stage 4 Bull shnit maybe. Kinda how they measure tornadoes and earth quakes. Cept a lot more smelly and long term exposure will cause pink eye septicemia. .. Yeah thats the difference
I was surprised about the engine but nothing performance about it just a stock engine with after market parts
Quicker delivery I guess 🚚📭📆🤔
There's a guy/shop in Montana (I think) that actually cleans up the burrs, machines the rod and case for roller bearings instead of plain bushings, and does a lot more work to them. The engine is called Little Demon or something like that. Cost is like 500 bucks, but you get what you pay for. I almost bought one for my build but wasn't sure about clearance for it on an 07 Iron Horse Maverick 4.0 suspension bike. Instead I mounted a Poulan/Husqvarna 42cc chainsaw engine. I modified the centrifugal clutch to accept 420 chain and tried to use the rear derailleur to have 3 gears. I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS. The bike would easily go 60+ mph but scary as hell. Especially when the chain bound up and tore the derailleur off. Single speed now 😂.
What do you do about the casting burrs? Should you file them? Use a file? Do you need to clean with some carb cleaner after or wipe with an oil/gas covered rag? If you could explain or point me to a video where someone does this that would be very helpful!
I purchased the same stage 4 about 2 yrs ago my piston is black on top was used to flat land in Florida and didn’t break it in more than 75 miles put 1500 mi atleast I’m replacing my rings and already ordered 5 sets ring better deal and my clutch lever and cable broke just routine maintenance on the several motorized bicycles I have it mounted to a 26 1/2 inch DVR tuning motorized bicycle frame with the gas tank built in it And had to modify the frame mounting a bit new to the bigger size motor studs in the front other than that I love my bike thinking of getting a shift kit put on sure on how to do it with that bike considering it only has one gear on the pedal side
Im running same motor not a bbr thou I found the barrel will shed bits of material from small castings in barrel and score it had no marks in piston but a lot in the barrel so you make the call. I did have a lot hp at the bottom.
Stupidly overpriced for the actual hp numbers they do. Zeda Motorsports gives you the best bang for your buck and definitely can provide you with the highest output motor for the money
I don't trust either would rather add stuff to a Chinese motor
Silenced9 Trujillo Go to Zeda Motorsports website. You can buy anything you could possibly want for a China motor and they can add upgraded crank bearings, better gaskets, better seals, better clutch springs you name it anything you want. Check out their Facebook too. Lots of great information to help you with your bike
@@titan97warrior69 I do like some of the parts just not the engine kits they have
Titan97 warrior gasbike.net is good too
ive had some bad expriences with bbr
How?
@@Oli420X They took about a month to ship my chain tensioner after they forgot to ship it the first time , Motor arrived in a week and a half , had to send an email to them twice telling them to ship the missing part , it still hasn't been shipped 4 weeks later just a tracking number was made, customer service is a joke , kits are overpriced as well , just get a zeda 80 and mod that or get a high performance zeda motorsports engine for the same price with double the power and torque
Unfortunate, no one is immune to bad experiences. This is where recovering fumbles really counts. I
bought a greatly under priced electric wheel .motor from or thru Wish that was too good to be true.
Sure enough. I was right. It never came.
Never could locate a customer service number.
Whar I learned, always employ tracking and always locate customer service when you order anything.
So what’s the best racing bike motor to buy
Oh
@Motored Life Hey, May You tell me, how is that Engine Holder (You used to review the Engine on), is called,? I'll be Really Grateful 🙏🏻,
My first MB engine was an older bolt together Z/L rod crank that ran a few thousand miles before it had a air leak. built a AF80 rod high hole engine and that engine makes better power than the Z/L rod engine IMHO Tried at least 4 different jugs on the Z/L rod and none made the power the high hole piston does now. seems like the timing and port locations are better suited for the high hole piston and crank setup. The cylinder shown in the video here is the same cylinder I have but with an iron liner and the transfer ports traditional style not open like the jug in the video. I am impressed with the iron liner over the coated jugs.
You need to try the chain tensioner that hooks to the motor on the bucking plate cover I have had not had one single problem with the spring loaded tensioner I put a bigger spring on there and his works awesome with no chain lock
yep what I did!
I've got the arch style with a lawnmower deck pulley .
No deceleration backlash after the spring gets tired , and my pulley won't wear out anytime soon .
Wish I could share a pic
hey Alex do you want to see a pic p80 from bikeberry strip down I just ripped my old huffy 3.0 motor complete you down to their Scott it's on RUclips can you like to take look
I use a piece of inner tube between the tank and frame... works awesome
Great idea definitely gonna do that now
Get some 1" or larger shrink tubing and lay it flat to the frame and it will cushion the tank very well and help cut down vibrations to the tank, as well.
Get the larger stud tank too" the regular ones tend to bend /leek from over torqued to keep it from sliding around as well if you don't have a tank frame
I just bought a 100cc online for 88total if you want to know we're aske me the one with the red plastic airfilter cover not the black 1
time will tell if it is what it is . port the cyl ports/rough castings as a matter of course?
Is a pull start unit available for the BBR engine?
Does the stage 4 kit need gaskets and, if so, how many and where?
Bike berry is a joke. DO NOT BUY FROM THEM..EVEN THEIR TOP ENGINE IS JUNK.
Why is it junk?
ive had their stage 1 and i thought it was gonna be junk but its been the best engine ive ever had, and ive had 3 others... but ive bought other stuff from bikeberry that wasnt as descibed... it just seems like the quality differs each time you buy from them, not consistent at all and i couldnt reach any support at all.
wat do u recc an wat place broski
What's a good brand to buy
What do you recommend?
Do you have any idea on how to install one these motors on a mongooose beast fat tire please respond
Do the top end come together
I had a problem with Bikeberry when I ordered a "SPEED" Carb. They sent me a stock NT carb with a red air filter cover. The "SPEED" carb has a separate fuel valve and uses a banjo fitting.
When confronting them about this, they told me the only difference was jetting. We all know this is incorrect. Throat and slide size is the difference. So you are right, their knowledge depends
on who you talk to. A bit pricey at $24.95 + shipping for a stock NT carb.
Right, Thanks for that info!
Thats prety f-ed up! Sorry that happened to ya bud! Did they ever make it right?
@@ericmcginnis2097 No they claimed they were right. That goes to show the knowledge of a wanta B MBer and a clueless sales person.
What's the small yellow plastic filter thing for he did not say
It almost looks like this new 2020 G4 racing engine I got it's just a beast I'm running at 35 mph at only half throttle everywhere
And a 32T sprocket. Be sure to do 50. I've had cheap 2 strokes upgraded to the max and did 75
This mortors crazy with the F2 thruster pipe
@ 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Mine got older tonight and it should be here in 4 days this will be my second motor I had ordered the Dewey from uMoto. And right off the rip it was a disaster I got everything put together it wouldn't start for me about a week and a half to figure out what it was well I guess the factory didn't tighten up the clutch now I got it running finally will three or four days after that it broke down again you got it running for about 3 or 4 days I don't think I even put 200 miles on that bike or that motor and s*** the Piston rings broke. It said broke down 4 days out of the week so I said the hell with it and I'm going to head and ordered me the bbr tuning 80cc
I got one of these and i make extreme power once i broke it in but my magneto didnt work the first time and ordered a black one and it works wonderfully
I bought a cheap motor to start off but it'll be my first time out on one of these 😂 wish me luck out there!
Will it work with a Reed valve?
@@jkoeberlein1 im heard that before. I know what a reed valve is. I grew up under a car. Now a retired mechanical contractor. Tell us about this "reed valve".
Are we talking about intake and exhaust or what?
@@darwanwinkler4125 we use the Reed valve on the intake in conjunction with a exhaust chamber. You have to fiddle with the port timing. I leave this with my nephew, he's the Wizz at this.
@@jkoeberlein1 i see.. thanks that gives me a clue as to what and where its employed. Somehow it aids in larger fuel bites as I dont see how it capable supply .ore air.
@@darwanwinkler4125 the theory as i understand it since there are no valves the as the piston comes up it pushes some of the fuel air mixture back out the intake. The expansion chamber uses the sound impulse from the exhaust and it gets bounced back into the chamber using most of the unburnt fuel. When your port timing is right, the reed valve gives more torque and expansion chamber gives more topend. If you want a better and probably more correct explanation read up on 1970s Yamaha two stroke engines. Personally I believe they are the best two stroke engines ever.
Your banana pipe the end where the exhaust exits it's is angled different than the one I received from bbr mine come out straight not to the side and way good video
And I have seen you had a. Trailer you made and I would to know how you did it
Sry I havnt made a trailer before
@@MotoredLife I thought I seen a video where you did
question tho does this engine fit in a beer crate?
Josh Media yes, without a problem
@@frankozunic3229 you think i can push start it even if it has like i bit bigger wheels than skateboard wheels
My petcock fuel valve has started to leak at the connection at the tank. It came apart once and needs replacing. Where can I find one? I checked BBR. They're out. Also, are they mostly universal in size? If so, what's the size? I have a standard tank from a stock nonracing kit. I also have one coming in exactly like the one you have in that kit.
The petcock you can find at just about any automotive store that also deals in lawn care equipment.
@@BeezyKing99 solution found. I ordered a larger 1 gal tank and it came with one.
the website advertises this as only 3hp? how such a low amount of HP out of an 80cc? some of my 1/5th scale RC cars are only 30cc and produce over 4hp...
My drive gear keeps getting stuck when starting the engine. How do i fix the drive gear so my bike can start running
Tighten your chain!
It's not the chain. I don't think it is. The drive gear just slowly grinds to a hult when i start the motor. I thought it was clutch not adjusted right. I can free up the drive and get ir spinning but the same thing keeps happening. There was no problem starting my bike.
Use your clutch bro... there’s always that extra lever for a reason, and if you’re still having a hard time starting your bike... just sell it and get yourself a moped.
Kiajimbo DaMoFkr will it start? Could have overheated and blown a head it makes the piston stick and be harder to move in the cylinder making it very very hard to run if run at all needs new head and piston or bore
Can they be used for street riding. I'm retired but wanting to enjoy things. Any pointers
They are allowed on the roads, just check your local laws on assisted motorized bikes.
I've ordered the bbr stage 4 kit. I've not run it yet. Truthfully I'm more interested in the frank. Where might one aquire those?
Check out the new phantom 85
@@MotoredLife got one I blew it up and there is no way I could have gotten 75 mph out of that I am going to rebuild it and it is quick way to fast for a Walmart bike but 75? No way.
how much is this kit[if it's still available]?
Just one question. Is it a balanced crank? Cheers
Do you have a video with this motor on a bike?
Here soon! Well...the next version of this engine
the bbr kit says that the bikes wheels should be 26' is that exact or can it be a larger wheel?
They can be whatever size you want! Just will have to adjust the chain accordingly
What size piston does it have???
What do you think of the California Motorbike PK 80 kit, and how does it compare to this motor?
Motored life, hey bro do you have any experience with the raw racer 3?
It is a yd100 with a g2 reed. But im not a fan of gasbike
@@MotoredLife ok thanks bro, i love all your videos
Which motor kit is the best performance racing engine for a bike I want my bike to go fast have some power I just don't know which one to buy I just been searching and looking at every single one I can think of and I just don't know which one should I get and I don't want to spend money on something it's not going to be what I'm looking for.
Wild cat pk80 from California motor bikes as good as it gets for 150 solid engine
Where can I find that stand you have the motor sitting on ?
e bay/amazon... $45? i thought that is what i saw them for on E bay? that was 2 + years ago though. shipping is high on things like that as they wont fit in flat rate box and flat rate box isnt $5 anymore it is $15++
That stinger pipe going all the way in is not a restriction. Its a very good way of muffling the sound without affecting the performance. Please dont spread misinformation.
Banana pipes are nowhere near real expansion Chambers and do nothing for these engines so I wouldn't even call that a Stinger at the end! Lol I do really appreciate you watching Blind8686
Motored Life banana pipe IS an expansion chamber, (although not a very good one). That pipe at end (call ot stinger or not) is sticking inside for a very good reason and is not a restriction. If you were to remove the section that sticks inside the chamber, only thing you would gain is noise.
@@blind8686 yep that about sums it up! And you are exactly right the Stinger inner diameter need to be smaller than the header inner diameter to get that back pressure action to push that gas in their back of the engine. This very particular style of expansion chamber from a couple years ago had a pipe at the end that was welded and at the wrong angle and it's literally touching the back of the pipe just caused the outlet hole to only be about the diameter of a pea.
Have you done anything with the bullet train engine yet? I want to buy myself one but iam waiting on you review on it installed on a bike
I'll have it back here soon loaned it out to Steve to make some expansion chambers for them.
What’s the top speed on the stage 4 and what bike would you recommend to put this on?
No clue yet. Im sure not much. And we will see I bought a cranny for it.
What is the cheapest bike i should but to put a motor on? My bikes frame id to big to mount the motor
Hi can you help me find the rubber motor mounts
No plz dont use those. They do not work they actually will cause your frame to break
Hi , l want to have the bike equipment to help me.
How much do they have .
What do you need?
@@MotoredLife ok, l need you help me to have equipment to do this on my bike help me i took its a project for me help me for God please...
@@razacksossohou3943 the link to the kit is in the description if that is what you are looking for. Is that what you need help with?
@@MotoredLife it that you help me to have equipments l took help me please..
Do you have any tips on making a stock bike faster? Besides upgrading? I'm trying to make my bike faster without spending any extra money so far I've raised the needle in the carb altered the muffler slightly and put bigger fuel lines and a Ram Air intake trying to see the most I can get out of it now then probably throw upgrades on it later if anyone has any good ideas or tips
look for videos on simple polishing the ports with any dremo tool - easy and cheap improvement - muffler baffles removed lowers backpressure and some argue it makes them faster others argue that a two stroke needs some back pressure - i have 2 bikes - one with and one without baffles - - BE CAREFUL WITH LEANING THEM OUT TOO MUCH (raising the pin on the needlevalve in the carb)- even though I know better from flying small airplanes with fuel mixture knob in the cockpit and a temp gauge that tells you what the mix is doing, i just burned either the piston or cylinder head in one of mine from running too fast and lean too long - grrrrr - good luck
Hey dude how did this engine hold up? How is it compared to a stock kit? Thanks. Can’t find any reviews
How fast was your stage 4? The old Angle Fire Engine and the new BBR stage 4 are listed as 2.75+ HP 40mph. This can keep up with a ZEDA80 Triple 40?
Where did you get that stand the motor sits in
e bay/amazon... welder make one if have measurements for him and he has the tube. i seen the stands... on e bay? seemed kinda pricey for what they are... $50? $45? but are made to fit the engine and shipped. shipping is not cheap as i thought it was... none of that $5 flat rate box for that. its too big so ... $15 plus tax or more just for shipping to anywhere by USPS, more for UPS?
You should cut one of those high performance CDI‘s and a regular one in half I haven’t seen a video yet it’s like the mystery is it really better check the wire and cut them in half and find out
Ok!
What size is the Intake? I just got one and want to put a boost bottle on her
Yeah dont. Boost bottles do nothing besides mess up your fuel air mixture. Its 40mm
@@MotoredLife rgr that 👌🏼👊🏼 thanks for the heads up man 🙏🏼
Excellent video, you know if they ship to Mexico, I would be interested in acquiring one of those engines, either that one or the BT model
Just open the fricking box!
Really
For real ...
Bruhhhhhh
@The Bushwacker yea this guy is a idiot all this hand talking and going on on the same thing ...just get on with the video...he does great things with the bike stuff he just talks too much
Lol...at least I’m not the only one that finds this guys videos annoying for this very reason. He has great enthusiasm and I enjoy his positive personality...but he takes forever to open each box and/or get to the actual point of why we’re watching...to see the stuff he’s gonna show us. He reaches towards it..then retracts his reach...then reaches again...then retracts again...then blabs a bit about it...but doesn’t really say anything relevant...then a few more “reach/retract” motions....and all I can do is shout “Just open the dang box already!!!!” He has cools things that I’d like to know more about...but he always loses me within a few minutes...just too painful.
Just wanted to find out if a upgraded cdi is most important if I want to get started with a fully stock engine plus would you order these types of engine from online stores like wish ?
Yeah no wish engines lol. And not that ive seen about the cdi. Best single upgrade you can buy is a proper expansion chamber.
@@MotoredLife would you have a preferred supplier of these motors and would they ship to Australia
If you dont have the huge 6 petal reed cylinder, the stock NT carb is the absolute Best unless you have the expertise to convert to a chainsaw style diaphragm carb.
What's the cost on thos? You'd have to clean those ports so it doesn't mess up anything right??
no they're fine. Open transfer ports are an older style 2 stroke wise actually, but its making a comeback because its cheaper to manufacture and just as reliable a system. Lots of utility engines use open transfer ports, they work fine, and the ring gaps are away from these openings, so shouldn't be an issue more than any other engine. If you need to clean up the ports, its defective manufacturing. Sometimes it happens on these bike motors though. Alot more top end power with 4 transfer port open setup like that. Looks great to me..
Can anyone please help? I have an 80cc pedal and pop. I was riding around as normal then i pull in the clutch and for some reason it revvs up so much...?
You have an air leak!
Rear friction. Rear mounted chain driven. Which one would you prefer have you done any videos on them?
I have no experience with chain drive and friction drive has its own advantages but where chain drive wins every time is when the streets are wet. Shuts you down completely other than that wears cheap tires out in a few weeks of riding every day.
That’s a cool upgrade, throws it on the ground
How do I get started on my own bikes
can it be wwater cooled?
Where is the best place to get the phantom 85 at?
You can get them on my site or from bicycle-engines.com directly!
What is better BBR STAGE 4 or Zeda 80?
Zeda80
Is the jl zeda with a reed valve and a racing carb better the stock zeda 80 motor on ebay?
Where was the expansion pipe?
😂 right
Is the clutch any beefier on this engine???
Does this muffler still cause the pedals to hit it?
Can these jugs be 'bored out', to accept a larger diameter piston? And if so, how far could one go regarding size? My intent is to make it a true 80cc engine, if possible...
Im curious if u ever found out more about this i prolly would never do it but sonds really cool to make it s true 80cc
I got the same engine for $100 on eBay. After doing some port cleanup mine is great. Best engine you can buy
good as any. same manufactureres... in china... different mfgs making teh same thing. yes port cleanup. oil torque the head bolts to proper torque. oil linkages etc. re torque bolts often as the vibration makes bolts/nuts fall off
My bike pedals in sync with engine speed. I have a Rohloff speed 500-14, gxh50 rear friction drive, front 1500w 48v hub. Can you touch on pedalling in sync with engine speed? eROCKIT mode!
Where’s your bike? No content to back it up.
the best expansion chamber is the one calculated for your engine
This motor does look awesome.. but my question is... which motor do you personally recommend for *reliability* I’m into reliability.. and I’m a light guy so it doesn’t take a whole lot to get me moving at high speeds anyways with just a small sprocket upgrade
This motor kit is very reliable !!!!
Hi Thanks for interesting videos. The "racing" carb is nothing special. That is a copy of an Italian carb that is used for most of the agriculture equipment made in Italy. It is just simpler than the stock carburetor as at least the stock have some needle setting! Do you have problems with the crank wearing out quickly. I have that all the time with the con rod bigend hole.
Rly ive never had an issie with the connecting rod or crank. Twice ive had the crank bearings blow up but thats it
And ur right Dellorto knock off all day
So is the zeda 80 with its long stroke that you commented on more powerful then the stage 4 80 ?