I have this printer and I really like it. It is easy to operate. It's fun and I have made many prints with it. If you want hard and sophisticated this is not for you. This is a very easy to use printer. It's great.
Me too, it's not the fanciest thing going but it's built like a tank with heavy gauge steel. I did replace the hot end and electronics fans with low noise parts to get it a bit quieter, but the steppers are pretty noisy anyway.
I have one and it's dependable, prints fairly well, easy to troubleshoot when it has issues. This guy has first world issues. I love this printer. Plus it has a great footprint.
I think the uploader is just annoyed at having to solve someone else’s issues here but this printer is from a period where you get a barely functional printer and have to mod it to make it reliable.
I have the arguably worse V3 with auto bed leveling and touchscreen. It's slated for being gutted entirely with no internal part left stock since I have an SKR1.3 and other scraps. I really like the form factor and it's just really cute (though I'd NEVER recommend it for more than the $50 I paid for it barely used)
I really had no problem with detection. I plugged it directly into my PC and it was even recognized by windows as a 3d printer without installing any drivers beforehand. Opened up Cura and ready to print via usb
This has been my only printer for a couple of years and have printed loads of stuff on it. The only issue I've had is the heated bed wires breaking which is a well known issue.
I’ve commented elsewhere already and this enforces my point that this printer comes from a period where you were expected to modify your printer to make it usable. KP3S is the best Chinese printer I’ve used and while the stock firmware/lack of zprobe and noise suck it easily outperforms ender 3 and prusa mini in print quality.
@@ps3customgamer Coincidentally I upgraded to a KP3S last year as I needed more print area but still don't have the desk space for an i3 style printer. The Kingroon is a better quality printer in most respects and the quiet stepper drivers are a blessing but it's noticeablly slower than the Select Mini V2 in stock form, and I had a linear rail go bad after just a few months (despite cleaning and greasing) so they are still very much built down to a price.
@@yzce20 Are you talking about the Monoprice Mini? The wires going to the heated bed are not routed very well and undergo a lot of bending at the point they are zip ties to the bed which causes the wires to break.
Huh. Never had any issues with mine. No issues reading micro SD cards. No issues printing direct with USB from my PC. This seems to only compare to features it doesn't have - like adjusting the levelling of the bed on the fly. Never needed to adjust mine. Not once. So seems odd to say the functionality is missing just because later systems have it.
although it was a pain in the arse to get working the accomplishment buzz must have been intense, I have a Mendel and that has a cooling fan, well it did I have temporarily borrowed it about three years ago, it prints but nowhere near as good as a modern printer
Actually, I have run up to an 8 gb card on mine. Your sd card can not say it is a Class 10 as it cannot read class 10 cards. I used to buy cards off of Ebay. I have tried the small cards from Chinese dealers and they do work in the printer. Oh, I also have the V3/pro with auto leveling. The sensor used to move. It required making a new shroud for the cooling fan to also secure the leveling sensor. As far as the thermistor, my guess is someone replaced it on your machine. There is a hole in the thermal block for the thermistor and you put a small set screw in to hold it. I put in a tiny bit of thermal paste to make a better heat conduction to the thermistor. I personally like the v1 and v2 better then the Pro.
Aldi were selling an even simpler version of this printer with a removeable magnetic bed surface, an internal 40w power supply but no heated bed. In use, it always had problems pushing filament through the hot end without jamming. But, updated with a new version of Marlin, a 3:1 geared extruder, klicky leveling and a filament out sensors, it's a fun little printer that just churns out PLA prints. Newer Marlin allows for bigger SD card sizes.
If it's anything like the mini delta you can commect to you PC via a gcode file. I use the hotspot option on my PC . Through there you can print if you want to do more then that you will need to use repeater server/host.
Regarding the SD Card 2gb limitation, is that just for updating the firmware? Because I'm currently using a 16gb card just fine for gcode files. Using these that I just got off ebay a week ago "Kexin 16GB 5pcs Ultra Micro SD Card SDHC Class 10 UHS-I TF Cards"
*FOR ANYONE RUNNING ACROSS THIS WHINE-FEST VIDEO, AS I DID;... IF YOU ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH "PRECISION-COMMON SENSE" STAY AWAY FROM THESE 3D PRINTERS!... Go buy the latest-greatest "Ender" ETC..., Something that comes with Anti-competancy offset technology... I'm a welder, Industrial Machinery Tech/ET. I have 20 of these things! AND(Thanks to people like this genius), I only have $400 invested into ALL OF THEM, because they're "garbage"! AND I LOVE EACH ONE! They work FN-GREAT!, Well, just as long as the extent of your "Precision-Common Sense" doesn't stop at "*DING* The fries are done!"
If you have a chance to get one cheaply, go for it. Avoid Class 10 cards until you updated the firmware. Also do the bed rewiring, but if you get one where the wiring has failed it prints pla just fine without heating the bed.
I have this printer and I really like it. It is easy to operate. It's fun and I have made many prints with it. If you want hard and sophisticated this is not for you. This is a very easy to use printer. It's great.
Me too, it's not the fanciest thing going but it's built like a tank with heavy gauge steel. I did replace the hot end and electronics fans with low noise parts to get it a bit quieter, but the steppers are pretty noisy anyway.
I have one and it's dependable, prints fairly well, easy to troubleshoot when it has issues. This guy has first world issues. I love this printer. Plus it has a great footprint.
I think the uploader is just annoyed at having to solve someone else’s issues here but this printer is from a period where you get a barely functional printer and have to mod it to make it reliable.
This was actually my very first 3D printer. I used to use these at George Mason's MIX lab and then I got one of my own for Christmas.
I have the arguably worse V3 with auto bed leveling and touchscreen. It's slated for being gutted entirely with no internal part left stock since I have an SKR1.3 and other scraps.
I really like the form factor and it's just really cute (though I'd NEVER recommend it for more than the $50 I paid for it barely used)
I really had no problem with detection. I plugged it directly into my PC and it was even recognized by windows as a 3d printer without installing any drivers beforehand. Opened up Cura and ready to print via usb
This has been my only printer for a couple of years and have printed loads of stuff on it. The only issue I've had is the heated bed wires breaking which is a well known issue.
I’ve commented elsewhere already and this enforces my point that this printer comes from a period where you were expected to modify your printer to make it usable. KP3S is the best Chinese printer I’ve used and while the stock firmware/lack of zprobe and noise suck it easily outperforms ender 3 and prusa mini in print quality.
@@ps3customgamer Coincidentally I upgraded to a KP3S last year as I needed more print area but still don't have the desk space for an i3 style printer. The Kingroon is a better quality printer in most respects and the quiet stepper drivers are a blessing but it's noticeablly slower than the Select Mini V2 in stock form, and I had a linear rail go bad after just a few months (despite cleaning and greasing) so they are still very much built down to a price.
What kind of problem?
@@yzce20 Are you talking about the Monoprice Mini? The wires going to the heated bed are not routed very well and undergo a lot of bending at the point they are zip ties to the bed which causes the wires to break.
@@ferrumignis thank you for your answer. Anything I can do to avoid or reduce that problem?
Huh. Never had any issues with mine. No issues reading micro SD cards. No issues printing direct with USB from my PC. This seems to only compare to features it doesn't have - like adjusting the levelling of the bed on the fly. Never needed to adjust mine. Not once. So seems odd to say the functionality is missing just because later systems have it.
It's like using a laptop from the 80's
For the SD Card, just make one 2GB partition on the SD and delete the old ones.
although it was a pain in the arse to get working the accomplishment buzz must have been intense, I have a Mendel and that has a cooling fan, well it did I have temporarily borrowed it about three years ago, it prints but nowhere near as good as a modern printer
Actually, I have run up to an 8 gb card on mine. Your sd card can not say it is a Class 10 as it cannot read class 10 cards. I used to buy cards off of Ebay. I have tried the small cards from Chinese dealers and they do work in the printer. Oh, I also have the V3/pro with auto leveling. The sensor used to move. It required making a new shroud for the cooling fan to also secure the leveling sensor. As far as the thermistor, my guess is someone replaced it on your machine. There is a hole in the thermal block for the thermistor and you put a small set screw in to hold it. I put in a tiny bit of thermal paste to make a better heat conduction to the thermistor. I personally like the v1 and v2 better then the Pro.
Aldi were selling an even simpler version of this printer with a removeable magnetic bed surface, an internal 40w power supply but no heated bed. In use, it always had problems pushing filament through the hot end without jamming. But, updated with a new version of Marlin, a 3:1 geared extruder, klicky leveling and a filament out sensors, it's a fun little printer that just churns out PLA prints. Newer Marlin allows for bigger SD card sizes.
If it's anything like the mini delta you can commect to you PC via a gcode file. I use the hotspot option on my PC . Through there you can print if you want to do more then that you will need to use repeater server/host.
Regarding the SD Card 2gb limitation, is that just for updating the firmware? Because I'm currently using a 16gb card just fine for gcode files. Using these that I just got off ebay a week ago "Kexin 16GB 5pcs Ultra Micro SD Card SDHC Class 10 UHS-I TF Cards"
*FOR ANYONE RUNNING ACROSS THIS WHINE-FEST VIDEO, AS I DID;... IF YOU ARE UNFAMILIAR WITH "PRECISION-COMMON SENSE" STAY AWAY FROM THESE 3D PRINTERS!... Go buy the latest-greatest "Ender" ETC..., Something that comes with Anti-competancy offset technology...
I'm a welder, Industrial Machinery Tech/ET. I have 20 of these things! AND(Thanks to people like this genius), I only have $400 invested into ALL OF THEM, because they're "garbage"! AND I LOVE EACH ONE! They work FN-GREAT!, Well, just as long as the extent of your "Precision-Common Sense" doesn't stop at "*DING* The fries are done!"
youtube videos or it didnt happen
jk
Yes sure, but.... It just looks so cool! 😆
I was SO CLOSE to getting one of these and am glad I didn't.
If you have a chance to get one cheaply, go for it. Avoid Class 10 cards until you updated the firmware. Also do the bed rewiring, but if you get one where the wiring has failed it prints pla just fine without heating the bed.
🥕