I'm with you on not wanting to listen to an impact running all day. after 30 years in a shop, the sound of an impact is like finger nails on a chalkboard.
I agree to the sound of an impact, plus my hands hurt if i need to use it all the time, sometimes it is handy to have, but not all things need to be pounded with an impact.
@@arthurirwin8235 yeah I'm just starting out in the auto world and I hate the sound of impacts lol I wear hearing protection now because I get sick of it quick!
Excellent. Love the detective aspect of tear down and "why". Never knew replacement blocks/heads didn't have SNs. Also kinda fun it turned out not to be the oil pan damage. Nice job Detective Squatch!
I can so relate to the statement about enjoying the not having a job having to hear an impact gun. I also enjoy not having to listen to air leaks and air compressors. Those sounds haunt me in my sleep and when its very quiet like tinnitus.
Mechanical forensics is fascinating. One of the early lessons was, learn from what failed. Do we need a remedy or was it neglect or just the odds? They truly tell stories if you assess it correctly.
the toss or keep question gets harder to answer every year. soon you will see a cracked t stat housing selling for $500. 😅 Hand tool disassembly is part of the listening to the machine's story process as well. :) thanks for sharing with us :)
Had a D4 cat back in early 70s that blew engine, we replaced it with a Buick 215 v8 and Transmission with headers and glasspacks straight up with flappers. Put transmission in low and that thing ran great( couldn’t afford a new engine) running when sold 10 years later.
When you get your hands on a doggerpillar, you have a rarity!! 😉 Great work, guys! Love seeing the classic things being preserved. That oil is grodyyyyy!! I could see you and your dad hanging out with Jim and Nick from Jim's Automotive Machine Shop Inc.'s channel. Lots of good background information that is shared in both channels.
I get so tired of the constant noise as well, I’m a production welder so it’s hammers grinders and spray transfer welding machines all night long. Where I used to come home to my auto/machine shop and beat and bang, now I do more hand wood work to find some reprieve from the constant drone. Another great video thank you!
I can see Christine narrowing her eyes when you wheeled that D2 in on the engine stand... Gear lube on your collar told a tale on you Gear lube on your collar said you were untrue Bet your last track roller, you and I are through 'Cause gear lube on your collar told a tale on you, yeah
Squatch, You are by far the best forensic Cat engine mechanic cum "physician" that I've ever enjoyed watching. I the early '60's I worked at Caterpillar (Decatur, IL) and I've always been proud of the quality of the equipment, even down to the bolt hardware stamped "cat".
Have you ever had a block and heads baked and shot blast with stainless beads to clean everything up? I bought a barn find 289 engine for a 66 Mustang I'm restoring. The engine was sitting for over 45 years and was seized up. My machine shop cleaned it up using the baking/shot blast equipment they bought to replace the old school acid dip tank. The result was amazing... the block and head looked brand new!
As a retired auto mechanic that was raised on a farm, I really enjoy your video's. I was always asked to disassembly damaged suspension, engines, you name and explain what happened for the insurance companies to decided what broke first? I got tired of the 'blame game' and started telling them I do not speculate, it is broke! Yes, best mechanics can decide what happened. I have two questions. I was watching a different RUclips video and saw a Farmall H road grader? It looked like they had taken one of your restored Farmall and stuck a road grader on the front? Did they make these or was this an addon kit? 2nd, how is the eye doing? God Bless,,, DAT's Don's Automotive Tips.
Yes, a few aftermarket brands made all sorts of attachment kits that used a different manufacturer’s farm tractor for the power source - graders, road rollers, forklifts, etc. but none of the actual tractor makers had anything to do with it. The eye is doing well, at the last retina scan in July they told me I only have to go back for once yearly checkups, unless I flag something going on with my vision.
I'll refer you guys back to the 7:58 mark of the most recent Farmall H episode where I told everybody that an extra little side project was coming up - ruclips.net/video/-DzIoA_Eq24/видео.html - this D2 engine teardown is that side project. Also remember back to what I said at the end of the Farmall H test run episode, that the constant mesh gear noise had seemed to start quieting down so I wanted to get a good 10 or so hours of drawbar pull on them and see what they sounded like after that. I also said that if I had to replace those gears, the only way to get a good quiet set would be to buy another H that had a good set and scavenge them from it. Without doing a run-in on the gears I already have, and without another donor H on site, I won't be taking anything back apart there.
@@squatch253 I greatly enjoy your videos, and I do remember... the comment was not made in any way to offend but as a friendly hazing.. as I tried to convey with the smiley in the end. but as you said when taking the H apart the shafts had run misaligned and had worn as such.. anyway, no offense intended
Super interesting. What were the max rpms of that particular engine? That’s a pretty robust built little engine. As a former field mechanic, I thoroughly enjoy the detective work with diagnosing engine failures, particularly older engines. I’m in agreement. My first initial thought was that was a cat replacement block when it was evident that there wasn’t any numbers stamped in the block. Great content!
Still here, check! Just as weird, check! Caterpillar nerd, check! The lack of paint behind the fuel pump area makes me wonder if that was a replacement block? Hopefully no beer cans were harmed in the repair of this D3400. Just wondering why you don't have any impact tools, 😂?
Squatch, I really enjoyed your forensic examination of the Cat. You are definitely cat expert. I can’t wait to see the rest of the tear down. Thanks for a very enjoyable and educational video.
Hello Toby, another enjoyable episode and definitely looking forward to watching part 2. I must admit that I was following your thoughts all the way and still with you at 6:28 into the episode. My mind is definitely wired differently to most people, and I do think the way you think and work is the same way I do.
Boy we must be a bunch of wierdo's, because I wasn't the only one that enjoyed the living crap out of this video. Between you and Pete from Just a few acres, I could listen to your calming voices for hours. Pete also doesn't use an impact on a lot of things. The two masters at work. Thanks so much Mr. Nelson for another great video.
hi squatch just wanted to say and let you that i have been watching your channel for a while now the first one i watched was all the way back when picked up #5j1113 and really enjoyed it i have 7 1/4 inch gauge live steam locomotives and build two new ones at the moment but i have enjoyed your video's and found a new interest thanks for all your work i have learned a lot form your channel thanks for sharing your knowledge
Ive never worked on or run a Cat that old, but Ive been on a few newer dozers, and have been into and fixed a bunch of 3406, C10, C13, C15 and C-15, 3208s, etc. I am in the middle of a few big repairs on a C-13 ACERT in a 2005 Freightliner FLD120SD road tractor right now. Cushion spring in the clutch failed and gor wedged between the rear friction disc and pressure plate, binding it up and making it like the clutch was non exisitant. Got the new rear main and flywheel back in it this morning. New Eaton EZ pedal clutch and gearbox are going back in monday morning.
Evaporust in those bores! It's not going to save the liners.. but thos pistons look relatively new. Should help with disassembly and keep them from getting scored up when pushing the out
Too many other higher priority projects going on right now to spend time building a short block that I don’t have a machine waiting for, but getting into this engine to see what future possibilities it might afford me in case I ever do have to build another engine is time well spent 👍
Yes, we've long known you are an odd duck. It starts with the beginning of the video when you have to re-direct yourself to task to keep from sweeping the floor! That's me too! I also found the detective work on this engine's story fascinating and I watched till the end. Looking forward to Part II, and just so you remember, the end of X231, and the beginning of the narrow RD-6. We know you have the parts, lol😉
I wonder if you could build a long block to put in storage out of this JUST in case. Like for example if you pulled the grader engine and wanted to rebuild the engine over winter but wanted to keep grader for winter clearing on standby or something.
That's actually Rustoleum "Light Machinery Gray" but with different monitor and electronic device settings colors can take on a much different appearance :-)
I too wondered about the freezing and subsequent cracking of the block. Clearly something catastrophic happened. Here is an extension to your thoughts. 1941 was wartime. The USA had to wind up for war and that included farmers. This Caterpillar would have been part of the war effort hence the need to put it back into service quickly and hence the chnage in various engine parts.
only problem with your theory is that the date code on the engine block is Post War (and i suspect that the Cylinder Head would be Post War as well if the Date Code didn't get destroyed during the casting process); and the Bell Housing, Oil Pan, and Front cover are all from the Beginning of 1941 before the US got involved in the war. i believe the tractor that this engine came from survived through the war and froze some time in the very late 40s or early 50s because of the very late date code.
Actually if you think finding a full replacment block and head of this vintage is rare. You did throw the thermostat housing away but I would have saved it despite the weld. Imagine if all you had was that than hardly anything would go to the scrap pile. Im amazed the bottom end looks like brand new and from the gaskets used. It seems that thing was rebuild or something done to it not so long time ago in the future.
my assessment: This engine was low-hours post-rebuild. You noted, very little corrosion or deposits in the water jackets all protected wear points (entire bottom end and cam) are going to be Mint. Block: Mint Head: Little rough around the injector pockets and precoms, but not too bad Valves: Little pitting on the combustion faces, but never redressed. Good and Savable Valve springs: Pretty Good, still stand-up parts Pistons: Rough but savable Liners: Write-off The liners are the most replaceable: Any engine shop worth its salt is going to be able to source material and re-fabricate them to-spec
Absolutely 👍 I’ve been into engines that have had the heads over-tightened and the studs are stretched, you really see it when you chase the threads with a die and it starts cutting into the threads about half way down because the stud is so stretched. So I like to keep plenty of good studs on hand.
I left these in the block because in the next episode, I just may try pushing the liners out with the stuck pistons still inside, so the head studs will keep the block up off the ground and give the liners a place to go 👍🤓
Rusted Parts in the scrap pile - Have you considered using the electrolysis method or soaking the very rusted parts in CRC Rust Rid to salvage any of those parts or are they total scrap? The parts for Caterpillar's built in the 1930's to 60's are becoming almost impossible to procure and some the best vintage parts suppliers have now ceased trading world wide.
That thought had crossed my mind as well - possibly a last-ditch attempt at quieting the bottom end just long enough to sell that machine to somebody else? I hate to speculate like that, but I've seen things like that happen before...
I was wondering if you were going to come out ok on this trade. Do you know how much a replacement block would have cost back when this one was purchased?
A lot of good stuff getting thrown out. I spent a lot of time rebuilding the injection systems and I salvaged a lot of parts that were in that bad of shape and they lived to work another day.
The trouble is I’ve already got multiples of better parts on my shelves, and my sheds are full. Add to that, all my buddies that are into Cats are in the same boat as me, with no real outside market interested in buying any of this stuff. Unfortunately, there are fewer of us collectors/restorers left every year so I don’t really see a need to keep building a parts stash that I won’t use in my lifetime when I’ve already got more than I’ll need 👍
@@squatch253 "And it didn't cost me a dime!" That being said, if the Cadillac factory employee had a lunchbox that would fit "All 4 shocks" I wonder how big the CAT guy's lunchbox would have had to be...🤣
There was a dock worker that would push a wheel barrow full of sand through the security gates every Friday at knocking off. The security guard would search through the sand but would never find anything. This went on for years and finally the dock worker retired. A few years later the security guard spotted him in a bar and went over to him and said to the docker that he knew he was smuggling something through the gates but he never found anything in the sand and asked if he would tell his secret. The docker explained that he was stealing wheelbarrows.
Typically seized engines only need the replaceable parts (bearings, crankshaft, liners, pistons, etc.) and not a block and cylinder head. If one threw a rod, then it’s possible but as I stated in the video these older Cat diesels typically just stop turning before they come apart inside due to their large wide bearings and heavy rods. Anything’s possible, yes - but for that thermostat housing to have frozen, the engine block would’ve went first, as that area behind the injection pump is the thinnest casting on a D2 engine 👍
Well I guess you can get out the die grinder and wire brush clean cylinders and start soaking with whatever you choose I don"t think that engine ran with the water in oil it would have looked like chocolate milk would maybe be good to just leave short block together and tear down head and clean it up for right now your call I remember when we first got an impact in early 70"s good one was about 50 bucks sure made things easier
I have a impact ! It's old enough to be a Coleman Powermate built in USA. Most likely stuck from neglect due to lack of use. In essence it hasn't been paying any rent. Takk Skal du ha.
Assume video Squatch253! I’ve watched all of the 5j1113 engine tare down videos, all of the engine rebuild videos, & I’m half way through your chassis rebuild videos. Just got done with your ‘try’ pony engine rebuild videos! I’m giving you lots of watch time lol! Also I’m glad to see the engine stand being bolted together instead of being welded together is paying off.
Thank you so much for the watch minutes! Yes, that's why I prefer to bolt things, they're more versatile plus can still be modified in the future to take on other tasks yet still perform the original job that I built them for - MODULARITY! :-)
Its really sad that people dont treat their equipment like they should . The block and inners would have made a good rebuild unit . We will see on the next video .
Have you ever considered chemical de-rusting? The channel Beyond Ballistics (gun restoration) has come up with a pretty good recipy that uses citric acid neutralized with soda
If I'm tearing down an engine for a rebuild I'm going to find out what caused it to fail before I even order parts. If you don't know why it failed, you may have it fail again. I've seen a few rebuilds fail shortly after being put back in service because the cause of the failure was not corrected or the engine wasn't worth rebuilding to begin with.
It either froze or ran dry of oil a scored all the bearings. Most of the old guys never ran antifreeze in the coolant systems they didn’t know all the benefits of it. Most of those old boys just got away from using horses to do the work about a decade before that bulldozer was built.
My 1968 C-10 has a lot of orange parts on a blue block--date code 1974--and like you I have a newer warranty or OEM block and heads with everything else off the original. History.
If the block froze, can you tell the damage to the block on the left side behind the injection pump will you be able to see that crack damage in the block without removing the injection pump and other things on the left side of the block? I'm assuming you cannot pull the pan off of the block without removing the block from the tractor? It's going to be quite some time before I can tear into my 5G 1075, but the bottom of my oil pan is severely cracked outward telling me there was water inside the pan Which froze and push things out I'm just wondering if there's any way I can ascertain roughly whether the block or head is damaged without completely pulling the engine add tearing it apart
Check out the very first video I ever did on old 5J1113, at about the 1:00 mark you can see where the cylinder head and engine block are both cracked, and no you don't have to remove the injection pump to see that area. Here's the link - ruclips.net/video/tJgvz2zlA4U/видео.html One thing that will work greatly in your favor with that early D2 is that it's basically a carbon copy of 5J1113, and I showcased every step of the restoration process in great detail so just about any question you could possibly ask regarding an early D2 is on video somewhere in the restoration series :-)
I'm with you on not wanting to listen to an impact running all day. after 30 years in a shop, the sound of an impact is like finger nails on a chalkboard.
I agree to the sound of an impact, plus my hands hurt if i need to use it all the time, sometimes it is handy to have, but not all things need to be pounded with an impact.
@timot7746 I have an electric impact that I use when needed, but to be honest, if I need mechanic work done, I send it to the shop 😆
@@arthurirwin8235 yeah I'm just starting out in the auto world and I hate the sound of impacts lol I wear hearing protection now because I get sick of it quick!
The obligatory three revs to make sure it still works before going to work are what kill me!
@colindgrant 😆 I still do that with my electric impact 😌
Excellent. Love the detective aspect of tear down and "why". Never knew replacement blocks/heads didn't have SNs. Also kinda fun it turned out not to be the oil pan damage. Nice job Detective Squatch!
Maybe we should rename him Sherlock Squatch !
So enjoyable, it's like sitting on a stool in Toby's shop, watching and listening to the master work. Thanks much Toby!
I can so relate to the statement about enjoying the not having a job having to hear an impact gun. I also enjoy not having to listen to air leaks and air compressors. Those sounds haunt me in my sleep and when its very quiet like tinnitus.
I agree. BTW I called the Tinnitus Hotline one time. No one answered. It just kept ringing
Mechanical forensics is fascinating. One of the early lessons was, learn from what failed. Do we need a remedy or was it neglect or just the odds? They truly tell stories if you assess it correctly.
the toss or keep question gets harder to answer every year. soon you will see a cracked t stat housing selling for $500. 😅 Hand tool disassembly is part of the listening to the machine's story process as well. :) thanks for sharing with us :)
Had a D4 cat back in early 70s that blew engine, we replaced it with a Buick 215 v8 and Transmission with headers and glasspacks straight up with flappers. Put transmission in low and that thing ran great( couldn’t afford a new engine) running when sold 10 years later.
When you get your hands on a doggerpillar, you have a rarity!! 😉 Great work, guys! Love seeing the classic things being preserved. That oil is grodyyyyy!!
I could see you and your dad hanging out with Jim and Nick from Jim's Automotive Machine Shop Inc.'s channel. Lots of good background information that is shared in both channels.
I get so tired of the constant noise as well, I’m a production welder so it’s hammers grinders and spray transfer welding machines all night long. Where I used to come home to my auto/machine shop and beat and bang, now I do more hand wood work to find some reprieve from the constant drone. Another great video thank you!
I can see Christine narrowing her eyes when you wheeled that D2 in on the engine stand...
Gear lube on your collar told a tale on you
Gear lube on your collar said you were untrue
Bet your last track roller, you and I are through
'Cause gear lube on your collar told a tale on you, yeah
😂😂😂❤❤❤
Squatch, You are by far the best forensic Cat engine mechanic cum "physician" that I've ever enjoyed watching. I the early '60's I worked at Caterpillar (Decatur, IL) and I've always been proud of the quality of the equipment, even down to the bolt hardware stamped "cat".
Thanks for the video Toby! Glad to see some salvageable parts off that engine. Looking forward to the next episode
Have you ever had a block and heads baked and shot blast with stainless beads to clean everything up? I bought a barn find 289 engine for a 66 Mustang I'm restoring. The engine was sitting for over 45 years and was seized up. My machine shop cleaned it up using the baking/shot blast equipment they bought to replace the old school acid dip tank. The result was amazing... the block and head looked brand new!
As a retired auto mechanic that was raised on a farm, I really enjoy your video's. I was always asked to disassembly damaged suspension, engines, you name and explain what happened for the insurance companies to decided what broke first? I got tired of the 'blame game' and started telling them I do not speculate, it is broke! Yes, best mechanics can decide what happened. I have two questions. I was watching a different RUclips video and saw a Farmall H road grader? It looked like they had taken one of your restored Farmall and stuck a road grader on the front? Did they make these or was this an addon kit? 2nd, how is the eye doing? God Bless,,, DAT's Don's Automotive Tips.
Yes, a few aftermarket brands made all sorts of attachment kits that used a different manufacturer’s farm tractor for the power source - graders, road rollers, forklifts, etc. but none of the actual tractor makers had anything to do with it. The eye is doing well, at the last retina scan in July they told me I only have to go back for once yearly checkups, unless I flag something going on with my vision.
anything to avoid working on x231 or replacing the noisy gear on the H ;-)
I was thinking the same!
😂😅😂
Lol +1
I'll refer you guys back to the 7:58 mark of the most recent Farmall H episode where I told everybody that an extra little side project was coming up - ruclips.net/video/-DzIoA_Eq24/видео.html - this D2 engine teardown is that side project. Also remember back to what I said at the end of the Farmall H test run episode, that the constant mesh gear noise had seemed to start quieting down so I wanted to get a good 10 or so hours of drawbar pull on them and see what they sounded like after that. I also said that if I had to replace those gears, the only way to get a good quiet set would be to buy another H that had a good set and scavenge them from it. Without doing a run-in on the gears I already have, and without another donor H on site, I won't be taking anything back apart there.
@@squatch253 I greatly enjoy your videos, and I do remember... the comment was not made in any way to offend but as a friendly hazing.. as I tried to convey with the smiley in the end. but as you said when taking the H apart the shafts had run misaligned and had worn as such.. anyway, no offense intended
Super interesting. What were the max rpms of that particular engine? That’s a pretty robust built little engine. As a former field mechanic, I thoroughly enjoy the detective work with diagnosing engine failures, particularly older engines. I’m in agreement. My first initial thought was that was a cat replacement block when it was evident that there wasn’t any numbers stamped in the block. Great content!
Thanks! Per the Caterpillar fuel rack setting charts, 1,650 rpm max at high idle, 1525 rpm max load speed 👍
10:25 - More scrap? Nah, "Vintage Caterpillar Art" That fan would look great on the wall of a Cracker Barrel
I'd be interested to hear how your system to clean, package, organize, and store your salvaged parts. Thank you.
Still here, check! Just as weird, check! Caterpillar nerd, check! The lack of paint behind the fuel pump area makes me wonder if that was a replacement block? Hopefully no beer cans were harmed in the repair of this D3400. Just wondering why you don't have any impact tools, 😂?
I'm not just as weird, I'm weirder.
@rolandmohler2695 🙃 I think a lot of us caterpillar fans are. I can definitely give weird a run for its money. 😜
🤭 never said he didn’t have any! In fact I’m pretty sure I’ve seen one make an appearance at least once on a vid 🤔
Really good video, nothing like saving the parts,they are not making any more. Thanks. 😊
6:35, still with you. Details are the best part of studying history👌
Squatch, I really enjoyed your forensic examination of the Cat. You are definitely cat expert. I can’t wait to see the rest of the tear down. Thanks for a very enjoyable and educational video.
You always make things interesting, even tearing down an old Cat engine. Thank you.
Hello Toby, another enjoyable episode and definitely looking forward to watching part 2.
I must admit that I was following your thoughts all the way and still with you at 6:28 into the episode.
My mind is definitely wired differently to most people, and I do think the way you think and work is the same way I do.
Boy we must be a bunch of wierdo's, because I wasn't the only one that enjoyed the living crap out of this video. Between you and Pete from Just a few acres, I could listen to your calming voices for hours. Pete also doesn't use an impact on a lot of things. The two masters at work. Thanks so much Mr. Nelson for another great video.
hi squatch just wanted to say and let you that i have been watching your channel for a while now the first one i watched was all the way back when picked up #5j1113 and really enjoyed it
i have 7 1/4 inch gauge live steam locomotives and build two new ones at the moment but i have enjoyed your video's and found a new interest thanks for all your work i have learned a lot form your channel thanks for sharing your knowledge
Excellent Video Squatch 253 (Toby) yes super interesting information on Cattaplier 1941 motor Desiel to look for and much how know fix up !
Never touched a Cat diesel in my life. But my curiosity knows no bounds! And way too many years of Diesel Creek. So yes, still watching!
Interesting and enjoyable video. Toby you have an impressive amount of knowledge about these old Cats. It's fun to watch and learn.
Happy Thanksgiving! Good that you were able to save some things! I'm sure you are keeping all the things you can!
Ive never worked on or run a Cat that old, but Ive been on a few newer dozers, and have been into and fixed a bunch of 3406, C10, C13, C15 and C-15, 3208s, etc. I am in the middle of a few big repairs on a C-13 ACERT in a 2005 Freightliner FLD120SD road tractor right now. Cushion spring in the clutch failed and gor wedged between the rear friction disc and pressure plate, binding it up and making it like the clutch was non exisitant. Got the new rear main and flywheel back in it this morning. New Eaton EZ pedal clutch and gearbox are going back in monday morning.
Evaporust in those bores! It's not going to save the liners.. but thos pistons look relatively new. Should help with disassembly and keep them from getting scored up when pushing the out
I’m like you Squatch…..I love trying to figure out the history of the machine and how it came to be. I throughly enjoy your video’s!
Thank you!
Absolutely brilliant
Thanks Detective Squatch
That poor engine's past life must've been brutal 😢
Indubitably.
Thanks for taking us along.
Thank you, this was awesome. You may have one of the largest collection of old Cat parts anywhere.
Best detective show I have seen in some time. Great episode!seeave
Always fun to open them up and see if there's anything that can tell a story. Great work!
Great episode, though if the block/heads are good why not build a long block or complete engine to put on the shelf?
Too many other higher priority projects going on right now to spend time building a short block that I don’t have a machine waiting for, but getting into this engine to see what future possibilities it might afford me in case I ever do have to build another engine is time well spent 👍
Yes, we've long known you are an odd duck. It starts with the beginning of the video when you have to re-direct yourself to task to keep from sweeping the floor! That's me too!
I also found the detective work on this engine's story fascinating and I watched till the end.
Looking forward to Part II, and just so you remember, the end of X231, and the beginning of the narrow RD-6. We know you have the parts, lol😉
I wonder if you could build a long block to put in storage out of this JUST in case. Like for example if you pulled the grader engine and wanted to rebuild the engine over winter but wanted to keep grader for winter clearing on standby or something.
That same thought had ran through my mind as well 👍
Squatch, you are truly a genius and a font of knowledge for alll the part numbers and criteria of these engines and how they were manufactured.
That was far more interesting than i would have guessed! Nice work
Great show educational, glad to see preservation of historical industrial dominance of American industry 👏👏👍🇺🇸🇸🇰
Looking like you are getting some good salvage parts with more to come.
Old machines have stories to tell. Fun to listen in. Thanks
I think you need to start a Squatch University series from Professor Squatch …More great info than the engineers know and should know about 🧐🤩👌🏻
Haven’t even gotten into the episode yet but I appreciate the “rotunda” blue on your engine stand. Definitely ford world type colour
That's actually Rustoleum "Light Machinery Gray" but with different monitor and electronic device settings colors can take on a much different appearance :-)
Sad I’ve sold my 38 D2 but I knew I wouldn’t get to it. It’s in a better place now.
Hey Toby,,great video. Truly enjoyed hearing your analysis of this engine.
Sweet rounding up more parts to keep good machines going
I enjoyed the video , are the pistons in sleeves and can you pull them as a unit if they are stuck together?
Yes, we’ve removed stuck piston&sleeve sets in one big chunk before, then separated them later 👍
@squatch253 I was just wondering thanks
I too wondered about the freezing and subsequent cracking of the block. Clearly something catastrophic happened. Here is an extension to your thoughts. 1941 was wartime. The USA had to wind up for war and that included farmers. This Caterpillar would have been part of the war effort hence the need to put it back into service quickly and hence the chnage in various engine parts.
only problem with your theory is that the date code on the engine block is Post War (and i suspect that the Cylinder Head would be Post War as well if the Date Code didn't get destroyed during the casting process); and the Bell Housing, Oil Pan, and Front cover are all from the Beginning of 1941 before the US got involved in the war. i believe the tractor that this engine came from survived through the war and froze some time in the very late 40s or early 50s because of the very late date code.
Actually if you think finding a full replacment block and head of this vintage is rare. You did throw the thermostat housing away but I would have saved it despite the weld. Imagine if all you had was that than hardly anything would go to the scrap pile. Im amazed the bottom end looks like brand new and from the gaskets used. It seems that thing was rebuild or something done to it not so long time ago in the future.
my assessment:
This engine was low-hours post-rebuild. You noted, very little corrosion or deposits in the water jackets
all protected wear points (entire bottom end and cam) are going to be Mint.
Block: Mint
Head: Little rough around the injector pockets and precoms, but not too bad
Valves: Little pitting on the combustion faces, but never redressed. Good and Savable
Valve springs: Pretty Good, still stand-up parts
Pistons: Rough but savable
Liners: Write-off
The liners are the most replaceable: Any engine shop worth its salt is going to be able to source material and re-fabricate them to-spec
I agree on all points 👍
@@squatch253 man did I read it right or what XD
I enjoy the fact that you respect the machinery and aren't a slam, bam, thank you ma'm disassembler. It sure pays in the long run.😊😊
Love trying to figure out the why and how's of engine damage.
Those casters never go where you want, because they are taking the path of last resistance, and you're not....
I'm still with you, until the end and be on
I enjoyed your teardown so far. I don't like impacts either. Good work.
Excellent deductions, you'll be Chief of Detectives in no time!
Do you ever access and salvage the head bolt studs?
Absolutely 👍 I’ve been into engines that have had the heads over-tightened and the studs are stretched, you really see it when you chase the threads with a die and it starts cutting into the threads about half way down because the stud is so stretched. So I like to keep plenty of good studs on hand.
@ right on thought you would but wasn’t sure when I seen you set the block on the studs lol - didn’t seem like a typical Squatch move haha 😂
I left these in the block because in the next episode, I just may try pushing the liners out with the stuck pistons still inside, so the head studs will keep the block up off the ground and give the liners a place to go 👍🤓
This is exactly the type of video I subscribed for. Happy days. 🙂
Really enjoyed the video
I am rather the same as you.... I have an impact, and a high volume compressor, but I am quite happy to undo bolts/nuts by hand..
Rusted Parts in the scrap pile - Have you considered using the electrolysis method or soaking the very rusted parts in CRC Rust Rid to salvage any of those parts or are they total scrap?
The parts for Caterpillar's built in the 1930's to 60's are becoming almost impossible to procure and some the best vintage parts suppliers have now ceased trading world wide.
Surface rust isn’t the problem, it’s the severe rust that causes deep pitting and lost material that turns certain pieces into scrap very quickly.
Brilliant video as always, I'm with you all the way!!
After seeing the second in this series it dawned on me it may have been gear oil in the sump to make up for the crank wear.
That thought had crossed my mind as well - possibly a last-ditch attempt at quieting the bottom end just long enough to sell that machine to somebody else? I hate to speculate like that, but I've seen things like that happen before...
"Elementary, my dear viewer." Squatch Holmes, circa 2024.
🤔Sherlock Squatch ☝️ 🤭😆 good comment , 👍✌️
Nothing wrong with arm powered tools. Prep H makes a good background.
Steerable casters …..
I’ll have a chat with Elon about that one …..
May be a while, he’s been a bit busy lately …
Great video !!!!
I was wondering if you were going to come out ok on this trade. Do you know how much a replacement block would have cost back when this one was purchased?
Thats not all scrap…It makes a great mouse house and squirrel collection point 🧐😵😜
A lot of good stuff getting thrown out. I spent a lot of time rebuilding the injection systems and I salvaged a lot of parts that were in that bad of shape and they lived to work another day.
The trouble is I’ve already got multiples of better parts on my shelves, and my sheds are full. Add to that, all my buddies that are into Cats are in the same boat as me, with no real outside market interested in buying any of this stuff. Unfortunately, there are fewer of us collectors/restorers left every year so I don’t really see a need to keep building a parts stash that I won’t use in my lifetime when I’ve already got more than I’ll need 👍
@ I fully understand. I’ve had to make similar decisions myself. It still bothers me if I let it…
2:51 clearly it is an engine built from stolen parts by a Caterpillar employee that smuggled parts out of the factory in his lunchbox
“One piece at a time…” lol 😂
@@squatch253
"And it didn't cost me a dime!"
That being said, if the Cadillac factory employee had a lunchbox that would fit "All 4 shocks" I wonder how big the CAT guy's lunchbox would have had to be...🤣
Cash special 😂
There was a dock worker that would push a wheel barrow full of sand through the security gates every Friday at knocking off.
The security guard would search through the sand but would never find anything.
This went on for years and finally the dock worker retired.
A few years later the security guard spotted him in a bar and went over to him and said to the docker that he knew he was smuggling something through the gates but he never found anything in the sand and asked if he would tell his secret.
The docker explained that he was stealing wheelbarrows.
I’m thinking that the need for the replacement block is that oil pan crack. Likely it ran till seized and needed block and head replaced.
Typically seized engines only need the replaceable parts (bearings, crankshaft, liners, pistons, etc.) and not a block and cylinder head. If one threw a rod, then it’s possible but as I stated in the video these older Cat diesels typically just stop turning before they come apart inside due to their large wide bearings and heavy rods. Anything’s possible, yes - but for that thermostat housing to have frozen, the engine block would’ve went first, as that area behind the injection pump is the thinnest casting on a D2 engine 👍
Wouldn't miss a second of this nice I'm hoping you got a good block and head to reclaim and a new factory blocks always a good thing.
Thanks for the CAT history lesson.👍👍
When questions like unruly casters come up, I always blame the conservation of angular momentum. It works for about everything.
Deciding the scrap from the good has to be the hardest part..
Well I guess you can get out the die grinder and wire brush clean cylinders and start soaking with whatever you choose I don"t think that engine ran with the water in oil it would have looked like chocolate milk would maybe be good to just leave short block together and tear down head and clean it up for right now your call I remember when we first got an impact in early 70"s good one was about 50 bucks sure made things easier
I have a impact ! It's old enough to be a Coleman Powermate built in USA.
Most likely stuck from neglect due to lack of use.
In essence it hasn't been paying any rent.
Takk Skal du ha.
I have a bunch of old caterpillar parts books, service books including all d2’s-d6s, scrapers, winches, blades (hydraulic and cable). Any interest?
Tinnitus or tendinitis we all must choose… have a good one squatch!
Fuck... What if I already have both?
Assume video Squatch253!
I’ve watched all of the 5j1113 engine tare down videos, all of the engine rebuild videos, & I’m half way through your chassis rebuild videos. Just got done with your ‘try’ pony engine rebuild videos! I’m giving you lots of watch time lol!
Also I’m glad to see the engine stand being bolted together instead of being welded together is paying off.
Thank you so much for the watch minutes! Yes, that's why I prefer to bolt things, they're more versatile plus can still be modified in the future to take on other tasks yet still perform the original job that I built them for - MODULARITY! :-)
I love videos like this! Interesting engine stand. Home built I suppose.
I showcased this engine stand build back in the “5J1113 Diesel Engine Rebuild” playlist on the channel here 👍
Its really sad that people dont treat their equipment like they should . The block and inners would have made a good rebuild unit . We will see on the next video .
Not weird. Love yellow.
Great episode Sherlock!
Have you ever considered chemical de-rusting? The channel Beyond Ballistics (gun restoration) has come up with a pretty good recipy that uses citric acid neutralized with soda
Squatches shop address should be 221-B Caterpillar Street!
This tractor post mortem was fascinating!
It looks like it was a solid, low hour engine before it was left to rust.
That’s my opinion too 👍
If I'm tearing down an engine for a rebuild I'm going to find out what caused it to fail before I even order parts. If you don't know why it failed, you may have it fail again. I've seen a few rebuilds fail shortly after being put back in service because the cause of the failure was not corrected or the engine wasn't worth rebuilding to begin with.
It either froze or ran dry of oil a scored all the bearings. Most of the old guys never ran antifreeze in the coolant systems they didn’t know all the benefits of it. Most of those old boys just got away from using horses to do the work about a decade before that bulldozer was built.
Please have something in mind when you hit 1,000,000 subscribers!
No clue as to why you don't have more now!?!?
Those casters learn from shopping trolleys.
My 1968 C-10 has a lot of orange parts on a blue block--date code 1974--and like you I have a newer warranty or OEM block and heads with everything else off the original. History.
Detective Toby strikes again :-), a good video for sure
If the block froze, can you tell the damage to the block on the left side behind the injection pump will you be able to see that crack damage in the block without removing the injection pump and other things on the left side of the block? I'm assuming you cannot pull the pan off of the block without removing the block from the tractor? It's going to be quite some time before I can tear into my 5G 1075, but the bottom of my oil pan is severely cracked outward telling me there was water inside the pan Which froze and push things out I'm just wondering if there's any way I can ascertain roughly whether the block or head is damaged without completely pulling the engine add tearing it apart
5J1075, was voice texting
Check out the very first video I ever did on old 5J1113, at about the 1:00 mark you can see where the cylinder head and engine block are both cracked, and no you don't have to remove the injection pump to see that area. Here's the link - ruclips.net/video/tJgvz2zlA4U/видео.html One thing that will work greatly in your favor with that early D2 is that it's basically a carbon copy of 5J1113, and I showcased every step of the restoration process in great detail so just about any question you could possibly ask regarding an early D2 is on video somewhere in the restoration series :-)
@@squatch253 I think my winter tv watching might be to binge watch the 5J1113 series start to finish