When ever I can salvage something I will. In the long run, with good luck, it will pay back. Pointing out that the dollars have a way of stopping good intentions. I remember my first engine rebuild. It was a lot of money for the time. I saved the money to complete the engine. In the long run it paid off. For you, your parts department has now gained some very nice parts that can be turned into cash if so desired. That is what I get from your videos. So many people could learn a lot from you. Many people could learn a lot about possible damage from water when a piece of equipment is left outside. I remember watching local repairman near our farm who did marvelous things with a torch to get metal to move. I have done that also. In some ways that is a lost art in our throw away society. Thanks for all you do.
I do that as well, many times people have said to me "why do you bother with junk like that, buy a new one" Well, o do not have the money to buy all new parts and many times it is just not available anymore, but with some good cleaning and measuring many parts will be usable again.
Morning.. I really enjoy your channel.. I worked at Cat for 40 years, most of the time in parts procurement at Morton,Il their base parts operation. . As u disassemble , repair and replace parts I see so many items that I was involved with over the years… thinking… I use to buy those ‘widgets’. For fun , I have googled many of the vendors that I could remember that used to manufacture provide these parts for Morton. As with many companies , they are now gone or swallowed up by bigger companies. Thanks for keeping those old Cats going!!
Wow, you not only dug up the technical history with your admirable skill, you also see the people behind that history and you really empathize with them. That is a rare combination of skills and it makes you stand out.
That D2 led a tuff life. Sure is a good start on a rebuild with a new block and excellent pistons and rods. I bet the head and injector cups are next. Nice time of year to be in the shop with snow on the ground. 😊
Excellent episode, Squatch. My father was a WWII mechanic and was always fiddling around in the garage on one thing or another, and I pick up a tad on some of things you are talking about. I'm always highy interest on anything Caterpilliar, but enjoy all your rebuilds and farming episodes, have a Happy Holiday Season.
Great work and not just the engine disassembly, and analysis, but your editing really make for a great video. Thanks keep up the good work I really enjoy watching everything you do.
Congrats on your salvage efforts. Your ability to create tools and procedures is frankly amazing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Loved the video and knowledge you have shared with us through the years.
What an AMAZING engine analysis. Sure enjoyed watching the piston removal, too. I don't know what it is about getting stuck pistons out that is satisfying.. But it really is. 😀
Really liked watching this teardown, I really like it when you open your notebooks and can see the tables you have created. Great info for me every time I watch one of your vids.
22:33: "There is no shame in protecting yourself." I'm not the safety guy, but that's mantra I can get behind. I'm going to start using that with the younger guys at work instead of chastising them about wearing their gear. Need that on a hardhat sticker!
When you get bored one day, fabricate an expander that you can use with your hand pump to open liners after you score them. Grandpa Capt. Dave told his son in law " you can buy a bargain but you can not buy the parts to build a bargain".
4:25 that, is a first for me. I've never seen an engine shaft where the wear is so noticeable, that it's visible with the naked eye. Whoa! And this is through a camera even! Like, i've seen my fair share of clapped out engines, one has to when there's farm stuff and heavy equipment involved, but yeah... first for me. For shame. All that effort to rebuild this engine and they skimped out on arguably the most important part.
Crazy how those pre-combustion chambers look brand new! Too bad you didn't have those on hand when rebuilding 571113. Thanks for sharing all this breakdown information, very entertaining and informational to watch.
Man it's tough hearing that story. It happens far less often these days but still happens.I've seen lots of low income people spend big on crappy cars. So glad i can do most of my own work.
As an old mechanic myself, [75] I am quite surprised that Cat offered crank bearings in no more than thirty thou undersize. I had imagined forty thou at least & perhaps as much as sixty thou. although the journal sizes are also a bit more slender than I had thought them to be. I am also a little surprised that the aftermarket didn't offer forty, & perhaps sixty thou bearings. For a non workhorse restoration [show pony], that crank might just clean up at forty, & definitely would at sixty thou. With the minimal running hours that a show pony restoration would have, with no real engine load, that crank would serve, problem free, till the sun grows cold. Has that aftermarket bearing option been explored, or do you already know the answer? Are serviceable or repairable cranks available in sufficient quantity that would allow this crank to be scrapped without any concern regarding finding a serviceable or re-grindable replacement for future engine builds?
Yep the reason why Cat only had standard and .030” under bearings for the D2 is because the max allowable running clearances were so loose - .013” on mains and rods. So in theory, it would take a .030” grind to reliably clean up all the journals *IF* they were reconditioned before going past max spec, so .030” was the first step instead of doing .010” or .020”. The larger Cats like my RD-6’s went as far as .050” under, but still not much more. Aftermarket bearings like Clevite, Michigan, etc. had offerings in all the more common undersizes, but those are rarely ever found anymore.
@@squatch253 Thanks for the reply. My only experience with Cats was with some of our beloved D7e models & the occasional brush with D9's in our workshop. We never needed to do engine work, they just kept on ploughing telephone cable [rural, exchange to exchange] into the ground. D9's, D8's & smaller Case tractors were also used on the optic fibre run, Sydney to Melbourne, about 700 miles all in.
This was a very interesting story. It was great to see you come out good on the deal. To bad the former owner couldn’t wait to save money and finish the rebuild right.
Good morning, I really loved watching this 2 part episode and showing your true knowledge of this very sad story. I was so pleased that you managed to get some good parts out of this engine.
Our local cfank grinder Effingham crank grinders makes a specilty of welding industrial crankshafts and regrinding them and they work and last. but it is not cheap.
Yep the cost aspect is what makes me take that money and just buy more parts tractors instead, and a bonus is those parts tractors have lots of other good bits left on them as well 👍
That is a interesting story. About 1954 my Dad had his 2nd tractor ( Farmall Regular ) overhauled at Pehrson Implement in Lafayette for around $ 50 . I remember parts of the Regular, but not the complete tractor. Tusen Takk.
Thank for these two very informative and very interesting videos. Taking the time to carefully dismantle it and with your experience and knowledge, you made it finally tell its entire story. Greatly appreciated videos.
My personal . . . . . Decision point . . . . Is when the cost to insure the vehicle equals, (or is greater), than the value of it. That is when you really have to love that car if you want to keep it.
I rebuilt a crank like that but with the extra fun of rust pitting. Turned it down, welded it up, straightened it, and turned it back down to standard. Not cheap but eminently doable
The crankshaft and bearings were clearly worn well beyond service limits, but there were no indications of serious metal-to-metal contact... no scored bearing surfaces or spun bearings, just excessive clearances. The only indication of all those excessive clearances would likely have been low oil pressure, and maybe a little knocking. I'm guessing that engine was just hours away from catastrophic failure.
LOL. I'm looking forward to seeing that poor Minnie getting some love. I've said it many times that she's been abused so much that she is fighting back out of fear. She will be sweet when she realizes that she's going to be treated like a queen.
Very nice haul! A lot of very good parts and a new post for your mailbox. By the way, you're piston pressing idea has officially been stolen, 😁. That is a truly brilliant idea and way much better than a sledgehammer, 😖.
Always amazing videos. Question from a relative novice: is it possible to have the crank journals welded up and turned back into shape as they are also unobtainable?
I've seen this same wear on a few other D2 cranks as well, all were taken out of high hour machines. Lots of hours and very dirty oil will make these Cat crankshafts wear just as this one has :-)
We have a D4400 Gen set with a Louis Allis 25K Gen set attached. It was rebuilt in the early 70's and has few hours on it. Unfortunately, it shows condensation issues under the valve cover and will need torn own before it will be run. The pony is not stuck, but we have not tried to turn the main as I want to pull the brushes off the Stator rings before we do anything. Some day when I get to it, I want to get the old girl up and running., I watch this channel wishing to learn more. I hope it is much better condition than this engine. It is indoors and high and dry till that day comes.
Good sleuthing, Toby! Shame about those 2 liners, but worth it to have a full set of almost new pistons - what a deal! Factor in all the other almost new parts, and that is a real haul - well done! - and thanks for taking us along on the ride (that was sweet seeing the piston move, rather than the expected liner!). A most enjoyable series.
Great episode! If I understood correctly, the usable items are: Block, Head, Cam, and Pistons? I recall much effort to find a usable block on one of your earlier projects, so really worth the effort to salvage these parts.
Very common. Just this year I have had two vehicle failures that were either too expensive to fix, or the parts needed were 6 Months on back order. I ended up trading both in for pennies, and buying used replacement vehicles, one of which needed additional repairs. All in All I came out OK, but much lighter in the pocket book.
Thanks for the video Toby! Nice to see you got some good usable parts off that engine. Hopefully the block will be good still as well. Can’t wait for the next video!
Love the use of the stubby pencil! We had to use the pencils in Graammer school until they wouldn't fit in to the sharpener any more. I still use the stubbys and the kiddos don't understand how I am still able to write with them.😂
What I was waiting for was to find out what the bearings were, 10 under, 20 over what! But it's a good video, kinda edge of the seat thing. Still curious about the bearings....
So the bearings actually weren’t Cat, they were aftermarket Clevite. Still a quality bearing but likely purchased because they were a bit cheaper to buy. Cat only offered standard and .030” undersize bearings for these D2’s, and as I mentioned when discussing the bearing measurements, the 2.752” main bearing ID’s indicated a new bearing’s diameter when measured opposite of thrust, and with the crankshaft starting out at 2.749”-2.750” journal diameter, those were standard size bearings which would’ve afforded the desired .003” running clearance on a NEW crankshaft. I found the same thing with the rods, but because of the uneven wear on all of the journals, they still wouldn’t have been able to fit the .030” unders due to how out-of-round everything was and no machine shop would’ve been willing to just shave off a few high spots and still have an improper fit for the .030’s.
@squatch253 I wasn't sure about that when I asked. I think I had another mechanic working on a seized engine and found oversized bearings in it. So that's why I asked, excellent response by the way..
Glad you were able to salvage some decent parts, that's always a good feeling. It's also good to know Caterpillar has always been proud of their parts lol.
Too few RUclips mechanics take the time to properly use introductions and conclusions. And you do it effectively, Squatch. Thank you. You record them AFTER the teardown or rebuild segments are recorded. This practice gives you the advantage of pre-knowledge. When you cleverly unleash this power, it entices us to stay engaged, primes our analytical troubleshooting skills, and makes us enjoy each surprise along the way. Your discussion on expenses at the conclusion of your video was also a fitting addition. Economics is often overlooked in the dreamworld of many RUclips mechanics and Do-It-Yourselfers. Yet, economics is a force none of us can escape. You make the dullest subjects yield the most stunning lessons. Thank you for all these lessons.
Excellent episodes. Like those 1954 part prices. Since frozen / cracked blocks seem not uncommon back in the day, wonder how come people didn't always use antifreeze, especially on a high price item like a D2. Penny- wise?
D2’s were actually being built back before antifreeze was invented, in those early days your only option was to run a certain percentage of alcohol mixed with the straight water for freeze protection - but the engine heat slowly boiled off the alcohol so you had to check the mixture regularly because it could revert back to just water and if you didn’t top it back up or drain it out, you had big trouble lol 👍
Another possibility is that there simply was no antifreeze available at the time . Ethylene glycol antifreeze was invented in the 1920s , so it was an established product well before the 1950s . However , something many don't know , is that there were occasional shortages of various industrial chemicals in the decade or so following WW2 , when demand would occasionally exceed supply . Things like sodium hydroxide., various ethers and other solvents , as well as ethylene glycol , were sometimes virtually unobtainium . I have heard of more than one enterprising chemists who would obtain diethylene glycol and sell that as antifreeze ( it's almost as good as ethylene glycol itself ) , but , their contributions were limited in the scope of the shortage . So that is an arcane possibility , but likely no way to really know for sure , that it contributed to the demise of the original block and head .
Don't know what the tractors job was but brand new super m 2500$ 1954. Maybe 200$ or more for the d2 as a parts d2. Just a difference of 900$ if used as a farm tractor would have made more sense. But i know how tempting rabbit holes can be.
Thats over $10,000 bucks of parts from part of the world I am from, Someone I know put new bearings in a engine without getting the crank ground and it was making a clattering sound until the oil light went out with in a few weeks
They probably would have gotten a lot more hours if they spent a little extra on the 0.030 bearings and ground the crank, even though it wouldn't have been ideal. They paid for the standard bearings (unless the new block came with them) anyway. That would have left only the cost of machining the crank.
That thought has been thrown out here by someone else already, but I answered them by pointing out how the expense of saving one crankshaft like that puts me in the neighborhood of buying one to two complete parts tractors for the same money, to hopefully source a better crankshaft plus the added benefit of getting all the rest of the useable pieces off each of them :-)
@@squatch253 Wow, I knew it would cost a lot but I didn't think it would be that much. Now I see why you didn't seem too concerned about it. I know that custom crank work in my area (Buffalo NY) starts around $1500 and goes up quickly from there, we have a lot of marine diesel work in my area. That's a lot of money no matter how you look at it. And I've ran out of money on projects before, I know how that goes.
You gotta wonder how close the crank was to savable when they did the rest of the work if machining it would have been an option. You’d think they would have found a better place to save some money on the repair
Sort of a long shot but I am also wrench and preparing to step into the trans of a D7E. Sort of trying to find competent people to chat with to make a plan here.
I highly recommend posting on the Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club website bulletin board, there are a lot of guys over there that have worked on machines of that era and size. I personally don’t have any experience at all with anything that new or that big.
How do you store your parts so that they do not rust? I was told that my 1956 Farmall 100 is probably stuck because it has cast iron rings. I was told to do the acetone/trans fluid to loosen the pistons. If I got everything loose, I was told that if it smoked the rings are probably stuck in the grooves. I would not think it would be smart to run it at all. What do you think? I value your knowledge.
I’m lucky enough to have very dry storage facilities, so I just box up the parts as they are and store them away. As far as rings go, almost all rings are made of cast iron (with the exception of most top rings, they’re usually chrome plated for longer life) so the “cast iron ring sticking” theory is bogus in my opinion. But every time a piston sticks inside a cylinder, the rings stick too and you’re right to be leery of running it at all before opening it up and investigating. A lot of people would be willing to take the chance, but I never do because as you saw in this episode, stuck pistons always have a lot of rusty crud packed tight around the rings. Even if you get the engine freed up without taking it apart, those rings all end up eating that rusty crud until it finally breaks up and works its way past everything, which causes a lot of wear in a short amount of time, in addition to increasing the risk of breaking a ring which will then destroy the piston that it’s on. That risk is not one I’ve ever been willing to take, and I’ve always found it to be better to just take everything apart, clean, inspect, replace where needed, then reassemble and run with the knowledge that everything’s good 👍
When a piston sticks in the bore from corrosion it is because the rust occupies more volume than the steel it formed from. This jams the piston skirt , not usually the rings because the rings can reduce in diameter slightly , ring gap allowing. All rust related seizures are due to the rust expanding in volume , thread seizures , jammed bearing races , etc.
When ever I can salvage something I will. In the long run, with good luck, it will pay back. Pointing out that the dollars have a way of stopping good intentions. I remember my first engine rebuild. It was a lot of money for the time. I saved the money to complete the engine. In the long run it paid off. For you, your parts department has now gained some very nice parts that can be turned into cash if so desired. That is what I get from your videos. So many people could learn a lot from you. Many people could learn a lot about possible damage from water when a piece of equipment is left outside. I remember watching local repairman near our farm who did marvelous things with a torch to get metal to move. I have done that also. In some ways that is a lost art in our throw away society. Thanks for all you do.
I do that as well, many times people have said to me "why do you bother with junk like that, buy a new one" Well, o do not have the money to buy all new parts and many times it is just not available anymore, but with some good cleaning and measuring many parts will be usable again.
Morning.. I really enjoy your channel.. I worked at Cat for 40 years, most of the time in parts procurement at Morton,Il their base parts operation. . As u disassemble , repair and replace parts I see so many items that I was involved with over the years… thinking… I use to buy those ‘widgets’.
For fun , I have googled many of the vendors that I could remember that used to manufacture provide these parts for Morton. As with many companies , they are now gone or swallowed up by bigger companies. Thanks for keeping those old Cats going!!
Wow, you not only dug up the technical history with your admirable skill, you also see the people behind that history and you really empathize with them. That is a rare combination of skills and it makes you stand out.
Forensics investigator Toby, makes another Excellent analysis. Great video.
Squatch, you are an amazing teacher.
And a very enticing storyteller.
Thank you Squatch for another very educational CAT D2 engine history lesson. 👍👍
That D2 led a tuff life. Sure is a good start on a rebuild with a new block and excellent pistons and rods. I bet the head and injector cups are next. Nice time of year to be in the shop with snow on the ground. 😊
Forensic D2 strip down and a bearing refresher. One of the best for me. Well done.
That was the best episode of unsolved mysteries I ever seen! Thanks for the great video Toby. Cheers
GREAT video. Extremely entertaining and informative. I liked it. Thank you for all of your work that went into putting this together.
Excellent episode, Squatch. My father was a WWII mechanic and was always fiddling around in the garage on one thing or another, and I pick up a tad on some of things you are talking about. I'm always highy interest on anything Caterpilliar, but enjoy all your rebuilds and farming episodes, have a Happy Holiday Season.
You’re a natural at this! Great story.
That was wonderful Squatch. The detail and analysis were just wonderful.
Hard day at the piston mines!!! Epic perseverance and tool making!
Great couple of episodes!! Really enjoyed this 👍🏼Thanks
End thrust is good because the crank created its own thrust bearing at every main bearing oil groove
Great work and not just the engine disassembly, and analysis, but your editing really make for a great video. Thanks keep up the good work I really enjoy watching everything you do.
Congrats on your salvage efforts. Your ability to create tools and procedures is frankly amazing.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Loved the video and knowledge you have shared with us through the years.
What an AMAZING engine analysis. Sure enjoyed watching the piston removal, too. I don't know what it is about getting stuck pistons out that is satisfying.. But it really is. 😀
Really liked watching this teardown, I really like it when you open your notebooks and can see the tables you have created. Great info for me every time I watch one of your vids.
It told the story well - but it helps that it had such a great listener!
Neat detective work! Those old books are a treat :)
22:33: "There is no shame in protecting yourself." I'm not the safety guy, but that's mantra I can get behind. I'm going to start using that with the younger guys at work instead of chastising them about wearing their gear. Need that on a hardhat sticker!
When you get bored one day, fabricate an expander that you can use with your hand pump to open liners after you score them. Grandpa Capt. Dave told his son in law " you can buy a bargain but you can not buy the parts to build a bargain".
This was like a good detective story, and you found the culprit!!! Great Channel !
I have a D3400 on a generator if you are interested
Fascinating. I always enjoy these mechanical "archealogy" digs. Thanks much.
4:25 that, is a first for me. I've never seen an engine shaft where the wear is so noticeable, that it's visible with the naked eye. Whoa! And this is through a camera even!
Like, i've seen my fair share of clapped out engines, one has to when there's farm stuff and heavy equipment involved, but yeah... first for me. For shame. All that effort to rebuild this engine and they skimped out on arguably the most important part.
Crazy how those pre-combustion chambers look brand new! Too bad you didn't have those on hand when rebuilding 571113. Thanks for sharing all this breakdown information, very entertaining and informational to watch.
Yep, if I had these parts back when I did the 5J1113 rebuild I would’ve used those precoms as well as those newer style one-piece pistons 👍
Man it's tough hearing that story. It happens far less often these days but still happens.I've seen lots of low income people spend big on crappy cars.
So glad i can do most of my own work.
As an old mechanic myself, [75] I am quite surprised that Cat offered crank bearings in no more than thirty thou undersize. I had imagined forty thou at least & perhaps as much as sixty thou. although the journal sizes are also a bit more slender than I had thought them to be.
I am also a little surprised that the aftermarket didn't offer forty, & perhaps sixty thou bearings. For a non workhorse restoration [show pony], that crank might just clean up at forty, & definitely would at sixty thou. With the minimal running hours that a show pony restoration would have, with no real engine load, that crank would serve, problem free, till the sun grows cold. Has that aftermarket bearing option been explored, or do you already know the answer?
Are serviceable or repairable cranks available in sufficient quantity that would allow this crank to be scrapped without any concern regarding finding a serviceable or re-grindable replacement for future engine builds?
Yep the reason why Cat only had standard and .030” under bearings for the D2 is because the max allowable running clearances were so loose - .013” on mains and rods. So in theory, it would take a .030” grind to reliably clean up all the journals *IF* they were reconditioned before going past max spec, so .030” was the first step instead of doing .010” or .020”. The larger Cats like my RD-6’s went as far as .050” under, but still not much more. Aftermarket bearings like Clevite, Michigan, etc. had offerings in all the more common undersizes, but those are rarely ever found anymore.
@@squatch253 Thanks for the reply. My only experience with Cats was with some of our beloved D7e models & the occasional brush with D9's in our workshop. We never needed to do engine work, they just kept on ploughing telephone cable [rural, exchange to exchange] into the ground.
D9's, D8's & smaller Case tractors were also used on the optic fibre run, Sydney to Melbourne, about 700 miles all in.
Thank you Squatch GREAT video
This was a very interesting story. It was great to see you come out good on the deal. To bad the former owner couldn’t wait to save money and finish the rebuild right.
Good morning, I really loved watching this 2 part episode and showing your true knowledge of this very sad story.
I was so pleased that you managed to get some good parts out of this engine.
Very clever engineering on that "pusher" setup, nice work.
Our local cfank grinder Effingham crank grinders makes a specilty of welding industrial crankshafts and regrinding them and they work and last. but it is not cheap.
Yep the cost aspect is what makes me take that money and just buy more parts tractors instead, and a bonus is those parts tractors have lots of other good bits left on them as well 👍
That is a interesting story. About 1954 my Dad had his 2nd tractor ( Farmall Regular ) overhauled at Pehrson Implement in Lafayette for around $ 50 .
I remember parts of the Regular, but not the complete tractor.
Tusen Takk.
Hey Toby,,thanks for the in depth. Always enjoy that. That lower end had to sound like a singer sewing machine.
Thank for these two very
informative and very interesting videos. Taking the time to carefully dismantle it and with your experience and knowledge, you made it finally tell its entire story.
Greatly appreciated videos.
Excellent detective work. A great educational video for any mechanic.
very interesting teardown and story Squatch, as I've said numerous times, you have the knack
Great video! Back stories are all history and worth the time to read it.
Great exercise in mechanical epidemiology! Interesting!
My personal . . . . . Decision point . . . . Is when the cost to insure the vehicle equals, (or is greater), than the value of it. That is when you really have to love that car if you want to keep it.
At least there were bearings and not beer cans. LOL
@@northwoodsguy1538 but it might be an option to shim that worn out crankshaft. Maybe it depends on the brand of beer can 😁
Excellent forensic analysis Squatch.
I rebuilt a crank like that but with the extra fun of rust pitting. Turned it down, welded it up, straightened it, and turned it back down to standard. Not cheap but eminently doable
The crankshaft and bearings were clearly worn well beyond service limits, but there were no indications of serious metal-to-metal contact... no scored bearing surfaces or spun bearings, just excessive clearances. The only indication of all those excessive clearances would likely have been low oil pressure, and maybe a little knocking. I'm guessing that engine was just hours away from catastrophic failure.
I think I can hear Dolly Parton in the background - Moline, Moline, Moline, Moline, I'm begging of you ...
LOL. I'm looking forward to seeing that poor Minnie getting some love. I've said it many times that she's been abused so much that she is fighting back out of fear. She will be sweet when she realizes that she's going to be treated like a queen.
Very nice haul! A lot of very good parts and a new post for your mailbox. By the way, you're piston pressing idea has officially been stolen, 😁. That is a truly brilliant idea and way much better than a sledgehammer, 😖.
I found the backstory and how you arrived there quite interesting.
Now you have the tooling to remove D2 linners!!!!
Really enjoy your show!
Always amazing videos. Question from a relative novice: is it possible to have the crank journals welded up and turned back into shape as they are also unobtainable?
Very interesting watching.
Looking forward to where you take us next.
I've seen this bearing wear on a friend's tractor! Took me a bit to figure it out!! I believe they put undersized bearings on a worn crack!!
I've seen this same wear on a few other D2 cranks as well, all were taken out of high hour machines. Lots of hours and very dirty oil will make these Cat crankshafts wear just as this one has :-)
Very informational video from start to finish.
We have a D4400 Gen set with a Louis Allis 25K Gen set attached. It was rebuilt in the early 70's and has few hours on it. Unfortunately, it shows condensation issues under the valve cover and will need torn own before it will be run. The pony is not stuck, but we have not tried to turn the main as I want to pull the brushes off the Stator rings before we do anything.
Some day when I get to it, I want to get the old girl up and running., I watch this channel wishing to learn more.
I hope it is much better condition than this engine. It is indoors and high and dry till that day comes.
Good sleuthing, Toby! Shame about those 2 liners, but worth it to have a full set of almost new pistons - what a deal! Factor in all the other almost new parts, and that is a real haul - well done! - and thanks for taking us along on the ride (that was sweet seeing the piston move, rather than the expected liner!). A most enjoyable series.
Excellent video I am guessing it didn't have much oil pressure with all the excess crankshaft wear. You have lots of good parts now.
Great episode! If I understood correctly, the usable items are: Block, Head, Cam, and Pistons? I recall much effort to find a usable block on one of your earlier projects, so really worth the effort to salvage these parts.
Very common. Just this year I have had two vehicle failures that were either too expensive to fix, or the parts needed were 6 Months on back order. I ended up trading both in for pennies, and buying used replacement vehicles, one of which needed additional repairs. All in All I came out OK, but much lighter in the pocket book.
Thanks for the video Toby! Nice to see you got some good usable parts off that engine. Hopefully the block will be good still as well. Can’t wait for the next video!
Excellent forensics on that engine! At least you have some treasures from it to carry on with.
Great investigation and nice parts haul. Industrial archeology 😅
Love the use of the stubby pencil! We had to use the pencils in Graammer school until they wouldn't fit in to the sharpener any more. I still use the stubbys and the kiddos don't understand how I am still able to write with them.😂
Thank you for another interesting story.
It was interesting. Thanks for posting
Mashallah. The work you do is masterful. So much on other channels is inferior.
I’ve been there before, you can only throw money down a hole for so long and you gotta say enough is enough!
Fascinating story. Thanks for bringing us along!
good episode Toby!
Squatch, very educational and enjoyable video. Thanks
Fascinating 👏🏻. CSI Toby.
I love the economics lesson. It truly makes this an interesting channel.
What I was waiting for was to find out what the bearings were, 10 under, 20 over what! But it's a good video, kinda edge of the seat thing. Still curious about the bearings....
So the bearings actually weren’t Cat, they were aftermarket Clevite. Still a quality bearing but likely purchased because they were a bit cheaper to buy. Cat only offered standard and .030” undersize bearings for these D2’s, and as I mentioned when discussing the bearing measurements, the 2.752” main bearing ID’s indicated a new bearing’s diameter when measured opposite of thrust, and with the crankshaft starting out at 2.749”-2.750” journal diameter, those were standard size bearings which would’ve afforded the desired .003” running clearance on a NEW crankshaft. I found the same thing with the rods, but because of the uneven wear on all of the journals, they still wouldn’t have been able to fit the .030” unders due to how out-of-round everything was and no machine shop would’ve been willing to just shave off a few high spots and still have an improper fit for the .030’s.
@squatch253 I wasn't sure about that when I asked. I think I had another mechanic working on a seized engine and found oversized bearings in it. So that's why I asked, excellent response by the way..
They really didn’t mind putt plenty of piston rings on back in the day.😂
Thanks
Squatch CSI is such a great program to watch🌞🤣☝🏻
Very interesting methods of disassembly. The content and failure análysis was super. I learned a lot as always. Great job Toby.
Great video i really enjoy mechanical archiology thank you
There are still a couple foundries open in Wisconsin. Time to start casting and machining parts.
Now you have a block for the auto patrol.😅
Glad you were able to salvage some decent parts, that's always a good feeling. It's also good to know Caterpillar has always been proud of their parts lol.
Very nicely done great detective work 😊
Great show !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Very interesting video and I would love to see those pistons after they are boiled. 😊
Yes, very intresting. Thanks.
Great detective skills, you should become a private eye 👁 👍🏻
Excellent video. Great intro, better than Hollywood.
Too few RUclips mechanics take the time to properly use introductions and conclusions. And you do it effectively, Squatch. Thank you. You record them AFTER the teardown or rebuild segments are recorded. This practice gives you the advantage of pre-knowledge. When you cleverly unleash this power, it entices us to stay engaged, primes our analytical troubleshooting skills, and makes us enjoy each surprise along the way. Your discussion on expenses at the conclusion of your video was also a fitting addition. Economics is often overlooked in the dreamworld of many RUclips mechanics and Do-It-Yourselfers. Yet, economics is a force none of us can escape. You make the dullest subjects yield the most stunning lessons. Thank you for all these lessons.
@@markfischer5569 fully agree
Excellent episodes. Like those 1954 part prices.
Since frozen / cracked blocks seem not uncommon back in the day, wonder how come people didn't always use antifreeze, especially on a high price item like a D2.
Penny- wise?
D2’s were actually being built back before antifreeze was invented, in those early days your only option was to run a certain percentage of alcohol mixed with the straight water for freeze protection - but the engine heat slowly boiled off the alcohol so you had to check the mixture regularly because it could revert back to just water and if you didn’t top it back up or drain it out, you had big trouble lol 👍
Another possibility is that there simply was no antifreeze available at the time .
Ethylene glycol antifreeze was invented in the 1920s , so it was an established product well before the 1950s .
However , something many don't know , is that there were occasional shortages of various industrial chemicals in the decade or so following WW2 , when demand would occasionally exceed supply .
Things like sodium hydroxide., various ethers and other solvents , as well as ethylene glycol , were sometimes virtually unobtainium .
I have heard of more than one enterprising chemists who would obtain diethylene glycol and sell that as antifreeze ( it's almost as good as ethylene glycol itself ) , but , their contributions were limited in the scope of the shortage .
So that is an arcane possibility , but likely no way to really know for sure , that it contributed to the demise of the original block and head .
I would have tried electrolysis on those stuck pistons and liners before splitting the liners. Just because they are so scarce.
The wire brushing I did do above the pistons revealed rust pits too deep to hone out from the prior water contamination, so they were already ruined.
@ that makes sense. At least you saved the pistons.
Don't know what the tractors job was but brand new super m 2500$ 1954. Maybe 200$ or more for the d2 as a parts d2. Just a difference of 900$ if used as a farm tractor would have made more sense. But i know how tempting rabbit holes can be.
I do have a 1957 Caterpillar equipment price listing sheet, a brand new D2 that year would set you back $5,500. Equivalent to $62K in 2024 dollars.
Very interesting..did you come out even on the trade is the real question. Nicely done.
Well ahead on this one, by a mile 👍
Thats over $10,000 bucks of parts from part of the world I am from, Someone I know put new bearings in a engine without getting the crank ground and it was making a clattering sound until the oil light went out with in a few weeks
They probably would have gotten a lot more hours if they spent a little extra on the 0.030 bearings and ground the crank, even though it wouldn't have been ideal. They paid for the standard bearings (unless the new block came with them) anyway. That would have left only the cost of machining the crank.
Sweet saves even for a nuked engine there was still good deep within.
Great to see there were still some good parts. Once you clean them up do you coat them with anything to keep them from rusting in storage?
I’m lucky to have very dry storage facilities, so I just box everything up as it sits and store it away 👍
I bet the crank can be saved by building it back up and remachining. Not cheap though.
That thought has been thrown out here by someone else already, but I answered them by pointing out how the expense of saving one crankshaft like that puts me in the neighborhood of buying one to two complete parts tractors for the same money, to hopefully source a better crankshaft plus the added benefit of getting all the rest of the useable pieces off each of them :-)
@@squatch253 Wow, I knew it would cost a lot but I didn't think it would be that much. Now I see why you didn't seem too concerned about it. I know that custom crank work in my area (Buffalo NY) starts around $1500 and goes up quickly from there, we have a lot of marine diesel work in my area. That's a lot of money no matter how you look at it. And I've ran out of money on projects before, I know how that goes.
Another clue of the wear is that it was a home rebuild because I'm sure Cat would have refused to rebuild it in that condition.
You gotta wonder how close the crank was to savable when they did the rest of the work if machining it would have been an option. You’d think they would have found a better place to save some money on the repair
Sort of a long shot but I am also wrench and preparing to step into the trans of a D7E. Sort of trying to find competent people to chat with to make a plan here.
I highly recommend posting on the Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club website bulletin board, there are a lot of guys over there that have worked on machines of that era and size. I personally don’t have any experience at all with anything that new or that big.
How do you store your parts so that they do not rust?
I was told that my 1956 Farmall 100 is probably stuck because it has cast iron rings. I was told to do the acetone/trans fluid to loosen the pistons. If I got everything loose, I was told that if it smoked the rings are probably stuck in the grooves. I would not think it would be smart to run it at all. What do you think? I value your knowledge.
I’m lucky enough to have very dry storage facilities, so I just box up the parts as they are and store them away. As far as rings go, almost all rings are made of cast iron (with the exception of most top rings, they’re usually chrome plated for longer life) so the “cast iron ring sticking” theory is bogus in my opinion. But every time a piston sticks inside a cylinder, the rings stick too and you’re right to be leery of running it at all before opening it up and investigating. A lot of people would be willing to take the chance, but I never do because as you saw in this episode, stuck pistons always have a lot of rusty crud packed tight around the rings. Even if you get the engine freed up without taking it apart, those rings all end up eating that rusty crud until it finally breaks up and works its way past everything, which causes a lot of wear in a short amount of time, in addition to increasing the risk of breaking a ring which will then destroy the piston that it’s on. That risk is not one I’ve ever been willing to take, and I’ve always found it to be better to just take everything apart, clean, inspect, replace where needed, then reassemble and run with the knowledge that everything’s good 👍
When a piston sticks in the bore from corrosion it is because the rust occupies more volume than the steel it formed from. This jams the piston skirt , not usually the rings because the rings can reduce in diameter slightly , ring gap allowing.
All rust related seizures are due to the rust expanding in volume , thread seizures , jammed bearing races , etc.
Happy Thanksgiving Merry Christmas and Happy New Year