It's a good idea to wire brush the hub surface and the back of the aluminum wheel prior to putting the wheel back on. Dissimilar metals do generate corrosion and removing it ensures a proper matting surface between the wheel and hub. It's also a good idea to wire brush the lug nut studs ensuring the threads are clean and clear of any debris.
Very nicely done, Brudda. This helps a lot and so do the comments. Most people don't mean anything by stating correct ways or a better way. We all learn when we discuss it all. Thank you for sharing this
Good stable camera, great lighting, perfect amount of audio and the length and overall quality of the video was perfect. Thanks for making a concise video.
You don’t need to remove the snap ring, however the snap ring pliers you have are reversible by unscrewing the center thumb screw and moving to the other hole to make it squeeze instead of expanding.
He didn't need to remove the large snap ring. The large snap ring holds the bearing in the hub. It does not hold the hub to the spindle. The small snap ring is the only one needed to be removed in order to remove the hub.
How much play should that will have in it once you’ve replaced your tassel knot and you’ve got your wheel back on everything spins freely should be any play at all? Please let me know
This is a cartridge bearing, so there should be no play. You tighten the castle nut to the proper torque and replace the cotter pin, there is no further adjustment.
I'm failing to understand why you need to remove the large snap ring for what has been shown here. That seems like it is to retain the cartridge bearing in the hub assembly, and has nothing to do with removal of the assembly from the spindle like the small snap ring, washer and nut do.
I just bought the entire assembly as shown instead of buying the cartage bearing. Im guessing he is just replacing the bearing which you do need to remove the snap ring then press out the bearing than a new one in. As my new assembly with new bearing, hub and studs and everything has the snap ring pre installed.
@@SpectroRacingChannel do you have the Dexter part number for the complete drum/bearing assembly? I carry a spare bearing, but in order to replace it you must find a tire shop with the ability to remove and press the bearing. Please don’t ask how I know!
@@camrodger5381 e trailer .com helped me out. I didnt bother pressing out and in new bearings it's to much of a pain and my lugs and hub are very rusted. E trailer does carry the bearing cartridge tho
The Dexter Nev-R-Lube hubs have cartridge type bearings that aren't serviceable. You never have to repack cartridge wheel bearings, hence the name Nev-R-Lube.
@@waynewillson Thanks Wayne..I see they have been around a while. I have a 2015 ATC 22ft all aluminum enclosed car trailer with twin 5200# Dexter axles. I was thinking about retrofiting with this technology but it looks to be very expensive $800.00 + per wheel...
I was looking for how to inspect the brake -- video just says he inspected it and the magnet was good and everything moved the way it is supposed to. That doesn't help me know what to look for when inspecting the brakes.
I am in in the process of putting new seals and bearings in dexter easy lube hubs, I assume the brakes are self adjusting ( rotors not accessible threw port) and have never had brake problem. The hubs are real difficult to remove and some of the wheels do not spin well when jacked up. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or comments.
They were the wrong size pliers, as they should have been considerably larger, but it was what I had at the time. I learned later that I didn't have to remove the large snap-ring. That would have saved about 15 minutes of time on each side, as they were very difficult to remove and install with the incorrect pliers.
@@rvtheus those were the correct pliers, you were just using them incorrectly. You remove the screw and reinstall in the other hole in the pliers. This reverses whether you squeeze to compress or expand the snap ring.
It's a good idea to wire brush the hub surface and the back of the aluminum wheel prior to putting the wheel back on. Dissimilar metals do generate corrosion and removing it ensures a proper matting surface between the wheel and hub. It's also a good idea to wire brush the lug nut studs ensuring the threads are clean and clear of any debris.
Very nicely done, Brudda. This helps a lot and so do the comments. Most people don't mean anything by stating correct ways or a better way. We all learn when we discuss it all. Thank you for sharing this
Good stable camera, great lighting, perfect amount of audio and the length and overall quality of the video was perfect. Thanks for making a concise video.
You don’t need to remove the snap ring, however the snap ring pliers you have are reversible by unscrewing the center thumb screw and moving to the other hole to make it squeeze instead of expanding.
Use a rubber mallet to install dust covers. No dents or damage
He didn't need to remove the large snap ring. The large snap ring holds the bearing in the hub. It does not hold the hub to the spindle. The small snap ring is the only one needed to be removed in order to remove the hub.
You are absolutely correct. I wish I had known that when I did this job, but directions were very hard to find.
How much play should that will have in it once you’ve replaced your tassel knot and you’ve got your wheel back on everything spins freely should be any play at all? Please let me know
This is a cartridge bearing, so there should be no play. You tighten the castle nut to the proper torque and replace the cotter pin, there is no further adjustment.
You move the center bolt over to the notch on the left on those pliers to use them as a squeeze type snap ring plier.... just sayin
I'm failing to understand why you need to remove the large snap ring for what has been shown here. That seems like it is to retain the cartridge bearing in the hub assembly, and has nothing to do with removal of the assembly from the spindle like the small snap ring, washer and nut do.
I just bought the entire assembly as shown instead of buying the cartage bearing. Im guessing he is just replacing the bearing which you do need to remove the snap ring then press out the bearing than a new one in. As my new assembly with new bearing, hub and studs and everything has the snap ring pre installed.
@@SpectroRacingChannel do you have the Dexter part number for the complete drum/bearing assembly? I carry a spare bearing, but in order to replace it you must find a tire shop with the ability to remove and press the bearing. Please don’t ask how I know!
@@camrodger5381 e trailer .com helped me out. I didnt bother pressing out and in new bearings it's to much of a pain and my lugs and hub are very rusted. E trailer does carry the bearing cartridge tho
Don't remove the large snap ring unless you are changing the bearing....
thanks for posting this tutorial video on Dexter Nev-R-Lube hub and brake inspections.
Rick, you're welcome!
You can remove the hub without removing the snap ring,the snap ring retains bearing in the hub
K mann thank you! Saved me tons of frustration.
What is this nev R lube hub you speak of???
The Dexter Nev-R-Lube hubs have cartridge type bearings that aren't serviceable. You never have to repack cartridge wheel bearings, hence the name Nev-R-Lube.
@@waynewillson Thanks Wayne..I see they have been around a while. I have a 2015 ATC 22ft all aluminum enclosed car trailer with twin 5200# Dexter axles. I was thinking about retrofiting with this technology but it looks to be very expensive $800.00 + per wheel...
...what size socket did you use for the castle nut?
1 5/16" socket
@@rvtheus Mine was 1 7/16" on a Dexter 3800lb axle
I was looking for how to inspect the brake -- video just says he inspected it and the magnet was good and everything moved the way it is supposed to. That doesn't help me know what to look for when inspecting the brakes.
I am in in the process of putting new seals and bearings in dexter easy lube hubs, I assume the brakes are self adjusting ( rotors not accessible threw port) and have never had brake problem. The hubs are real difficult to remove and some of the wheels do not spin well when jacked up. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or comments.
Incorrect way to use the snap on ring pliers.
They were the wrong size pliers, as they should have been considerably larger, but it was what I had at the time. I learned later that I didn't have to remove the large snap-ring. That would have saved about 15 minutes of time on each side, as they were very difficult to remove and install with the incorrect pliers.
@@rvtheus those were the correct pliers, you were just using them incorrectly. You remove the screw and reinstall in the other hole in the pliers. This reverses whether you squeeze to compress or expand the snap ring.
@@WillSmith_1980 thank you! I will try that next time
Thanks for the great lesson