Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease Repack and Easy Lube - RV Travel Trailer & Fifth Wheel
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Trailer wheel bearing grease repack procedure for both standard axles and EZ lube axles on an RV, travel trailer, or fifth wheel.
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Many bad things can happen while towing a trailer but seized wheel bearings should be avoided at all costs! Thankfully, it doesn't cost much to ensure the wheel bearings on your travel trailer or fifth wheel are properly lubricated.
Manufacturers recommend to repack the grease on trailer wheel bearings every 10,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. RV repair shops charge roughly $100 per axle, however this is an easy project that can be done at home if you are handy and have the required tools.
Many newer travel trailers and fifth wheels come equipped with EZ lube axles which make the wheel bearing grease repack procedure incredibly easy. In this video I show step-by-step procedures on how to repack wheel bearing grease for both standard axles and EZ lube axles.
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I just watched your video on wheel bearings..I am hoping thatmine are the second kind..I'm an old guy, probably about your dad's age, or maybe your grand dads...I have worked on many cars and trucks in the past, 60's to 80's..I really appreciate the demonstration..I have seen the guy that initially helped you try and get out from his videos..If you don't mind an old dude watching your travels and learning from your travels, we , my wife and and I, are grateful for the opportunity..Thanks, PickNorm...(My wife's name is Pick and mine, of course is Norm..Take care and see you both again..
You all probably dont care at all but does someone know a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Shepard Leroy instablaster ;)
@Noah Wilder I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I don’t even need to change any bearings but watched this video to the end. Great explanation
Well done! As a retired mechanic, I can say you hit all the key elements of that task. One suggestion I might add would be to check your brake operation, while the wheel is off the ground prior to disassembly. This will alert you to brake trouble that may need professional attention. I prefer to repack the bearing from the "large" side where there is more room for grease to enter and pass through. My trailer also has the Dexter Easy-lube axle that allows grease gun repacking, but I still remove the hub/drum assembly for brake inspection every other repack. The finishing touch is a brake adjustment check to insure proper operation. Stay safe and keep the shiny side up!
Yes, I've never seen a bearing hand packed from the small side of the bearing, I too do the large side down to your palm and the grease.
Same here. Mom and I were into off reading, etc, and that is how she taught me. And she learned from grandpa who was farmer and then truck driver, soooo.
Gregory, I bought my first tt last month. It is 2019, used. Do you think I should check and repack the bearings? and how do you check the electronic brakes? That is totally new to me also.
@@SuperJoeReb Congrats on getting into the RV life. I would recommend inspecting and repacking the wheel bearings. Your rig is two years old and it's very possible it has not had that service yet. To check the electric brake operation; while the wheel is lifted and the axle is secured by safety stands, before disassembly of the hubs spin the wheel and have an assistant apply the trailer brake with the tow vehicle's control unit. If the wheel stops, system is working. If it fails to stop, further repairs are needed. Do this for each wheel that has brakes. As always, if you are unsure of taking on this task, seek a professional. Safe travels!
@@CharlesinGA Yes, that is the proper way to funnel grease to the small side.
Hands down one of the best explanations of correctly packing the bearing of a trailer
Thank you!
First that’s a camper or a RV recreational vehicle. Not really a trailer. If you wanna be sincere, you should remove that word from the title. But I’ll let you be you. have a good day.
@@Chewy_GarageBandDadNo, it’s a trailer too.
Trailer definition: “An unpowered vehicle towed by another”.
@@cwqrpportable A dog has four legs and so does a cat. But we dont call cats dogs and dogs cats except on the show catdog. They share some similarities but ones a camper and ones a trailer. If im wanting to go camping, I dont call my friend and ask to borrow his trailer because he will think Im hauling something. I will ask for the camper. And if I need to haul something to the dump I don't ask for the camper.
Journey well.
You forgot to include the rest of the definition: A trailer is an unpowered vehicle towed by a powered vehicle. It is commonly used for the transport of goods and materials.
Lets look at he def of a camper. A recreational vehicle, often abbreviated as RV, is a motor vehicle or trailer ''''''''that includes living quarters designed for accommodation."""""""""""
I am glad to have found your video's. Simple RV maintenace for full and part-time RV owners. Excellent shared ideas to avoid problems. Having Dexter axels with an easy-lube setup sounds like the way to go. Thanks
Good job dude. Only a few suggestions to make life a little easier. 1. Rubber mallet 2. while the hub is off, spray everything and get it clean while you have that tray under it, then inspect brake operation, the lube all moving parts (not with bearing grease), then you should be good if no brake parts are needed. Nice detailed explanation. Oh and for those product haters who don't get how this whole you tube thing works, I would say this..... At least he is "peddling" an applicable lubricant that, in case you don't know, is essential to any mechanical device. Moreover, the lubricant he is "peddling" is a high quality product that has been around since I was born, in various forms, and have all performed very well. He not peddling flex seal here folks, 3 in 1 is a cheaply priced, high performing lubricant that has been tested and liked by professionals for years. I looked at this brief moment, as a worthy product endorsement that would most certainly benefit the target audience directly. Or if that triggers you, you could always ask Camping World salesman what they recommend.
Well thanks for your informative response. Always nice to know a GOOD PRODUCT that works. This will be my first time doing it myself.
I’m a girl ( well actually an old lady 67 ). I’m going to tackle this job. I’ve helped my ex repack cat bearings on D-7 & D-9’s. I want to make sure it’s done RIGHT besides I don’t have excess money to do something that looks so easy.😵💫 I’ve checked bearings before for flat spots, wear, however they were LOTS bigger!! Your video was really informative. I feel this is sooo important as I am a solo camper with 26 years of solo semi driving being most of my income. Thanks so much for your help.💕
Doing it yourself assures it was done correctly as we do know a lot of these RV dealership tech's can't always be reliable as I would like to see.
Good job! Thanks! Spoke loudly and directed camera correctly. A+
great video! thanks for posting. A couple of comments that may help others. I think it's easier to pack the bearings from the wider side. I understand your father did it that way, but that really seems like waste of grease in the dust cover, no moving parts there. Maybe just a thin grease layer for protection at the seal? I was glad to see your procedure on the retainer clip, and nut tighteneing, since I have the same on my axle. When i opened it up the nut came off by hand! i followed your instruction, and the 1/4 turn back-off and still just hand tight afterwards as well. Thanks for posting, great video!
My trailer has the EZ Lube system and I never use it. I repack the old fashioned way to avoid contaminating the brakes and to use a lot less grease.
I always pack bearings from the larger side. The opening between the cage and inner bearing race is usually larger on that side and you can get the grease packed in easier from that side. Also, added grease in the cap doesn't do much for you, but it doesn't hurt anything. However, I would recommend adding more grease in between the bearings. I always set the hub on with the outer bearing out, then pack grease into the pocket behind the bearing before putting the bearing in. This ensures that you have enough grease to keep the bearings well lubricated between services.
Exactly what I was thinking when I saw him packing from the narrow side.
Thanks for that..I will add that to what I learned from his video..
“Bearing Buddy” hub covers works great at completely filling the entire cavity with grease using just a grease gun. Also, he shouldn’t have pre-greased the spindle, 1) It’s going to push grease back into the brake when you put the hub on. 2) You don’t want grease on your inner and outer bearing races, they are not supposed to spin on the shaft or inside the hub, only the bearings should spin inside the races.
Do the break need any adjustment at this time?
@@tonyw9429 you do want grease on the outer race. That's where the bearing rollers ride bud.
I don’t know if this was commented on but you do not need to remove the wheel to get to the easy lube grease zirge. The center hub has a cover or cap that can be removed with a flat screwdriver that will pry it off and this will give you access to the rubber cap and spindle cover.
Saved my day, I have the Easy Lube Axles. I am used to the old way of repacking the bearings.
Nice! Yeah the easy lube makes life so much easier.
You did a good job. One thing I was taught though is to wipe off a zerk before you attach the grease gun so as not to contaminate the grease with dirt. I was also taught to tighten the spindle nut until the drum stops turning and then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 do that there's little to no drag. This ensures the bearings seated properly. I've heard with ez lube you should hand pack every other year. I think it really depends on how much the trailer is used.
Soo important on your wipe off comment!! Why push dirt into your bearings
David-You and your lovely wife, Jenny are ones of the first Full time Rv-ers that caught my eye! You get along so well together and always seem respectful toward one another. I Truly appreciate that and how you divide up the daily duties! That being said, you are a very precise instructor and make me feel as though even I could accomplish such a difficult task-If I only had All the right tools?! Anyway, I love watching your videos and travel vicariously along with you, Jenny, Butter, Sweetie and the younger gray kitty-her name escapes me at the moment? -as well as your 2 sweet bunnies! Safe Travels!
I mean there is no way they don’t occasionally yell at each other when backing into a space. 😉 😂
Make sure to torque those lugs again at 25, 50 and 100 miles. I’ve found loose lugs on mine up to 50 miles.
We check the torque on our trailer lug nuts before every trip, there are always a few that are not to spec
When you re-installed the hub and tightend the nut on the spindle (13:54), you failed to seat the bearings by torquing the nut down tight (most manufacturers recommend about 50 ft-lbs)... Once the bearings are seated, THEN back off the nut and lock it in the right position so that the hub spins freely with no excessive end play.
Actually I think there should be No (or minimal) End Play
This is a very well done video. Very clear and concise presentation, with good video and audio clarity. Perhaps the best how-to video I have seen. Nice job!
Very informative video! I used to work at a trailer shop & will tell you that the standard "store brand" bearing grease isn't as good as some of the name brands. I use Star-Brite marine grade bearing grease on all of my trailers & never had a single problem, it has much better film strength and stands up to higher temps. Also, to properly set bearing lash you tighten the axle nut down (not just snug) then let it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. A good way to check for no slop is take both your hands & place them on either side of the hub, then wiggle back & forth, you should only feel a slight movement (like a click). I noticed you left a little too much slop when you re-installed, just my 2 cents.
Yep, New Bearings=Zero Lash. Used Bearings go zero lash then back off a 1/4 turn. The used bearings have already done their expansion.
Too much end-play on that spindle and you'll fry your hub. Ask me how I know. :)
Thank you so much for this excellent video. We were getting ready to head out on our rv vacation and I could not get in to any of the garages that do this so I was forced to do it my self. Your video is perfect and very professional. Now I can feel good about going’ down the road. Thanks again from a very appreciative guy from Canada.
Great job!! Appreciate you going over everything and skipping nothing!!
Great job! I think even with wheels with access to the zerks you still have to raise the trailer so you can spin the wheel while pumping in the grease.
Thanks much for making this video. Way more confidence now to change my wheel bearing grease
For the time and effort I am just going to repack each year so I can also inspect the breaks etc. The idea of pumping new grease in the like you showed at end I have heard of issues with seals failing under the pressure and grease getting on the break parts driving down the road. Not sure if this is true but Option A seems like the better way to go.
I did this last year with a mechanic friend of mine last year. This video was a great refresher and I will get at it this weekend. :)
I didn’t read through all of the comments so I don’t know if this was pointed out. When using an impact tool you should always use impact sockets. The chrome socket that you were using can explode if over stressed. Impact sockets are usually black and made of a more malleable material and won’t catastrophically fail if you have to really pour the coals to it to break loose a frozen stud.
Great idea to show both methods even though you have EZlube bearings. I love the EZlube bearings, much easier. FYI the center caps normally have a removable end piece so that you don't have to remove the tire, but be careful because it is just plastic, sprayed with chrome. The inside tabs are easily broken when removing them. Just gently pry with a very thin screw driver.
Great tutorial. Clear & comprehensive. Thanks 👍🏼.
This was a great reminder that I need to do this before we hit the road next week. Thanks!
You're welcome! And remember to repack them every 10,000 miles!
-David
Fate Unbound , thanks! Last year was our first year rv’ing and we put just over 9k miles. We are about to go from Louisiana to Yellowstone and a bunch of points in between so now is the time. Thanks again!!
Thanks so much for this video. Very informative and easy to understand. Best to you and yours! Sandy
Nice video. You covered everything that I was taught as far as the manual bearing pack is concerned. I prefer the pack them from the large side of the bearing. That is the way I was taught. Also, I like to look at the old grease as I am wiping it off of the bearings. It is very easy to see flakes of metal if the bearings are breaking down.
I have never used an Easy-Lube setup. Don't think that I would if I had one. My thoughts on them. They use too much grease. You don't get a chance to inspect the brakes, the wheel bearings or the wheel bearing seals. And I am thinking that with the hub full of grease there is a greater chance of grease working past the seal and on the brakes.
VERY good job, sir!! You did an excellent tutorial and spoke to each phase of this task clearly and with detail. You also added "extras" along the way. I liked the mention of your Dad, too :) Thanks!!!
You're a week ahead of us on axle maintenance, repacking our bearings next week!
The centre of your chrome wheel centre caps actually pop out with a screw driver so you don't need to take the wheel off. The centre cap is two pieces.
When tightening the large bearing nut, rotate the drum while you're tightening. Use a torque wrench set at 50 ft/lbs. Then loosen the nut, tighten by hand, and install the clip. I believe that is the Dexter EZ Lube reinstall procedure.
Thanks so much for your tip! I haven’t looked at my fifth wheel to see which application it takes. Judy
Really like your channel and travel stories. FWIW with the bearing repack I would also clean and adjust all the trailer brakes.
good video just make your job alot easier by loading the bearing from the large side.
this man knows the proper way of checking ,cleanig,repacking bearings the right way and add additional grease inside the hubs. for the people that watch/listen to dexter axle talk or videos disregaurd all that garbage and make your family safe when going on vacation. enjoy
Enjoyed this video. Learned a lot but I also learned a bit more from some of the comments. Thanks.
Best explanation I've seen! I have a couple buddies that had the hubcaps just like yours and they couldn't access so they just took them off. Pretty sure yours are removable and it is not required for you to keep them on your wheels.
Great video. Repacking tip: turn the bearing over and pack it from the larger side. The groove is larger and the grease gets in much faster and easier. In my opinion, the inside bearing did not enough grease in it. And, use a rubber mallet to reinstall seals and dust covers.
Remember when I said it can be scary? When the bearings disintegrated on my bosses work trailer (he remembers to maintain them better now!) when I was driving down the freeway, we had a hell of a time replacing them. They literally came apart and pieces were frozen on the axle. When he replaced them he found that some manufacturers offer open dust covers now for past models. Even if you choose the zerk point method to fully repack the bearings, you need to periodically clean them completely and repack them the old fashioned way. Zerk points are really meant more for making sure the bearings have enough grease since some is lost over time, you can never get all the old grease out that way. Particles of dirt of metal will damage bearings and all those surfaces that are suppose to be smooth over time, especially if you travel a lot. Loved the video, looking forward to more! Stay safe.
Great vid. That grease looked delicious. I may never need to eat Tide pods again. Happy that non-impact socket didn't explode on you because on everything else, I learned a lot. Nice work.
Really informative video, great job!! One thing, I would recommend getting, an impact rated socket, they usually have a black oxide finish on them, they are made for use with an impact wrench, thicker walled and shouldn't shatter if not used properly. The chromed sockets have much thinner walls and will crack or shatter during a failure while using with an impact.
Thank you very much for this video David! First time doing this task and your step by step instructions allowed me to complete the task very easily!
I don't think I'd ever plan on doing that but at least I would know how. Thanks great video
Awesome. Thanks for the tutorial. Love your delivery and organization, David!
Good video David.
Although I am pretty sure Dexter recommends a full wheel repack and bearing inspection once per year or 10-12K miles...
Excellent video David!! Easy to understand, thorough and clearly explained! My wife even wants to try greasing our trailer once it's ready!! Another great video to look forward to each week! Just missing seeing Jenni and the pets.... Thanks so much for the tutorial.
My Preferred Grease is LUCAS OIL RED TACKY! An outstanding product! Made for Wheel Bearings and has a DROP RATE of 540 degrees!
Nice job David! I have a 2016 Springdale Summland 2450rb. I always thought I had to take my wheels off to pack my bearings to get access to the EZ lube system but just recently realized that the cap that covers the dust cover has a circular piece that pops off with a flat head so you can get access to the EZ lube! I literally just figure this out a few weeks ago and blew my mind!!! Lol not sure if you’re Rig is set up the same way but hope this little bit of advice helps! Keep making great videos!
Thanks for the video. Have repacked bearing in cars and worked on a lot of car breaks before but not my camper yet. Make sure to throw some safety glasses on in you’re not using impact sockets. I’ve seen those shatter. Keep the videos coming!
Your video is so helpful, after watching I went out to look at our bearings on our 2008 Holiday Rambler that we recently purchased and I was so happy to see that we have the Dexstar bearings.
Wow, thanks for making it look so easy. I have an equipment trailer that is a year old so knowing I can do this myself it will get done sooner rather than putting it off.
I find it helpful to use a solid pipe with a snap lock end attached to the grease gun vs the flexible rubber hose
I love how you pack so much amazing info into each of your DIY videos! We plan on doing as much DIY as we can. Ya never know when something is gonna go wrong and if you know how to fix it on the side of the road or on an old country road your alot better off :D THanks again!
I always prefer DIY if I'm able to. It saves money, you gain experience and know how to maintain your own equipment, and we dont have to drop our home off at a shop! Thanks for the kind words 👍🙂
-David
We love you guys and have followed you for almost two years. We appreciate you guys greatly, and understand that paid advertisements are a way of keeping everything running. David, you don’t sound like yourself in this video, or any of the paid ones. If you could relax and be your normal self, slow down to your normal fast speed, instead of hyperspeed, it would be awesome. I’m glad your doing well, and the content of the video is amazing. 4.5 stars from me, but out of love and care, wanted you to know. Hugs.
I thought he did the video real good n proffessional n none of that immature n childish playing around stuff in it like other videos he did, people we need more proffessional teaching videos like this n none of that different kind of demon n devil evil stuff in it, like acting goofy or whacked out or other evil ways
Well at least in the world of love n truth we need better teachers will way better spiritual energy, time to hit higher levels of maturity n responsibility, things are getting way more serious in life
Excellent meticulous oral and visual instructions. Great video Sir. .
I followed your directions to the tee but all I got was nice fresh grease coming out. After about half a cartridge of grease I looked on the Internet for zerk fittings and low and behold... You need to tighten the nozzle of your grease gun around the nipple until it is tight. You can then perform this one handed AND the new grease goes in forcing the old grease out. Thanks for the video anyway. It gave me courage to do this myself.
Thank you, didn't know that!
Excellent video, thanks!
My only comment - I would clean the entire brake system, pads, and discs since I'm already there, and it's exposed.
True, I definitely should have done that cause why not? I did inspect everything and the breaks were still in good condition.
I really appreciate the video on repacking the wheel bearings..I am really hoping that I have the newer kind..Thanks.....Norm..
Thank you so much for this video. Was questioining if I could do this myself. After your help I know I can!
Great video. Just doing my bearings for the first time. Did not realize that you could pump thru the E-Z lube spindle without blowing out the rear seal. Thanks
Thank you David! Well done, enjoying & learning much...first time with a camper.
Good vid. Thanks. Like others have said, I would still do it the old-fashioned way even if I had the E-Z Lube system for fear the seal or other parts are bad. Visual inspection helps. I would rely on the EZ-Lube method you showed in second part of video only in an emergency situation.
I found that my center hub cover, actually has a small "hub cap", looks like yours does too. There is a small indent for a screwdriver and once you pop that off, you have access to the rubber cover on the grease fitting and away you go. Thanks for all your videos.
Hi David, check the end of your center caps on the wheels. The end pops off if you use a small flat screw driver. You might have to look really close to find the spot to put the screw driver. Hope this helps you.
Great explanation of how this should be done. Thank you!
Thanks for telling people to jack the Frame and Not the Axle. I see this mistake constantly. Especially at Tire Shops!
Why? Jacking the axle at the right spot is the best practice in my opinion. That's where all the weight of the trailer is located. I jack between the two U-bolts on the axle. As I understand it, Mfrs do recommend it to keep idiots from jacking towards the middle of the axle and bend it--cya. Jacking the U-bolt area also guards against slippage and prevents people from using dunnage or other unsafe ways to reach the higher part of the frame where most jacks can't reach. I researched this when my dunnage shot out right near me at high speed. I am interested if you think the weight-bearing area of the axle is still not a good area. Always looking for things I may have missed. Thanks.
@@brentginastravelingadventures I believe that it was Dexter (the axle maker) that advised against jacking on the axle housing while it is bearing the full load of the trailer. I don't even let the tire shop change a tire on the RV without me putting it in the air some. That being said... There is most likely plenty of beef at the location that you mentioned; however most people do not know the proper procedure for jacking at this point. I have large 6X6 blocks and a thing called a Safe Jack that I use to lift the RV. Then I use Jack Stands to support the frame. I will always put the RV up on jack stands first. Then raise the axels. It doesn't take that much more time compared to swapping out a (even slightly) bent axle.
@@smallhousebigyard1596 Yes, but they won't answer us, the advocates for u-bolt area jacking. I still haven't heard a reasonable argument against directing people to "Only jack at the U-bolt location or you'll bend the axle." It's for the reasons I mentioned already. It needs to be called out. Just researching it again this one time, I've seen a video of a guy using a bottle jack on top of dunnage (2" x 2" round tip) directly on the frame, metal to metal. It has to lift the entire side of the trailer with that. Most RVs are very heavy. That's a lot of pressure on that small area and very unsafe. If the dunnage is on soft ground or at any angle, it'll collapse. It happened to me. So, I'll keep asking, "If the axle is designed to support all the weight at the u-bolt area of the axle, why can't someone jack there?" FYI, dealership warranties won't cover axle repair or adjustments.
As a Former Navy aircraft mechanic and current GSE Mechanic I have done my fair share of repacks so this was a good video. Just tips for those without a seal puller. You can reinstall the nut after you remove the outer bearing and pull the hub. Tapping against the nut and the seal will pop out with the bearing. ‘DO NOT PULL TOO HARD’ it will damage the bearing and axel if yank too hard. Also remember grease is your friend on the wheel bearings don’t be afraid to add more just for extra measure.
What are your thoughts on the Dexter EZ axle grease repack? I'm going to do mine for the first time and this is the method I want to go with!
I always put a bead of grease around the outside of the bearing. His looked almost dry when he reinstalled them.
TREMENDOUSLY instructional video!!! Thank you for your efforts and detail in putting this very educational video together. You have saved me hundreds of $$$. Happy RVing.
Great video. You always do an awesome job explaining how to accomplish these tasks. It doesn’t look that hard to do. Messy and more time consuming than anything.
great job my trailer has this style of bearing set up. this will help me
Thank you for the video. Helped me a lot in a tough situation.
Now this is the way to do a DYI video. Thanks.
Thanks David , nice easy to understand video , I’m getting ready to do mine for the first time
Im glad ya packed the bearings the old school way :o)
Those bearings are supposed to have a slight preload on them. That makes sure the individual rollers share the load that bearing is carrying. I am amazed that so many videos on RUclips don't tell people the preload FACTS.
Good Job David. It is easier to repack a bearing on the wide end. Also I think if you look closely you did have a cap on the end of the spindle covers. Hope you and Jen are doing well.
Thank you David, it was very good detailed. I enjoyed watching it.
Thanks for the video. One safety comment, you should make sure to use sockets and extensions rated for use with an impact wrench.
Very useful for new trailer owners! Thanks!
Great video. As I come to my first year of owning the trailer I'll be doing this. I've got the same Dexter axles and I think if you look at your hub caps you can remove the center part to get to the rubber cap on the hub. 🤔
Great informative video David! 👍
Thanks and take care, Bill in Utah
Pro tip:
Instead of buying a seal puller, remove the outer bearing and thread the nut back on. Then pull the hub/drum towards you so the inner bearing catches on the nut, give it a good yank and your hub will come off, leaving the bearing and seal sitting on the spindle.
Great video and overview! Thanks! I need to preform this maintenance on our travel trailer as well. Safe travels.
Nice job, the only thing I would recommend is not to leave the dust cap full of grease. You should scoop most of it out to leave room for expansion when the axle gets hot on long trips.
Bro, thank you so much for being such a phenomenal instructional video! Would love to meet up with you guys sometime while camping!
We’re so glad you posted this. We need to do ours before we head out this coming season. Great job! 🙏❤️
This is great information and refresher course.
Some center caps you can pop the center piece out of the center cap to get grease access. I didn’t realize that until I owned my boat for 5 years.
Really thorough and informative video. I need to do this with my trailer. Thank you.
Very important to adjust the brake linings during this service, also clean those wheel studs and apply a dab of anti seize compound. Bearing preload is another issue, to get a perfect bearing setup you shouldn't accept a setting just because that's where the cotter pin lines up, a good mechanic will always have an assortment of outer bearing retaining washers which will get you a perfect pre load. That being said, following your instruction is better than not doing the service, as this service is ignored by a lot of trailer owners which is why we see trailers broke down on the highway...
Thanks for your extra tips!! Will surely help this old woman! Your totally right about sitting on the side of the road from neglecting this important issue. Drove solo semi 26 years, people don’t realize sitting on the side of the roads can be a death sentence!
Nice job on the video, David! I repacked the bearing on my trailer for the first time earlier this year. It was easier than I thought. I ended up replacing the Dexter bearings with made in USA ones after hearing recommendations from several people. Last summer I tried the ez lube hub -but I was so paranoid I blew out the seal, so I don’t think I will use this method again.
You don't need that much grease in there anyways. Boat trailers use that method, but they use a bearing buddy cap to stop you before you blow out the seal. Its used to keep the water out I believe.
There’s a cap in the middle of those axle covers. Even with those center caps, you should be able to take a flathead and pop the cap off
Very good video !!! You need to use impact sockets with the air wrench. Regular (chrome) sockets can crack and will void their replacement warranty.
Sweet pickup back there…
It's a good time to adjust your brakes while you have your trailer jacked up.
Thank you, David! I thought you were kidding about using one tube of grease per wheel! You weren't!!! I have the Dexter EZ lub zerk fittings. I'm thinking about adding hub covers to protect that dust cover from UV. Maybe you could do a video on what spare parts you carry with you since y'all do a lot of boondocking. Also, what do you think about replacing the tires with truck tires when that time come?
Check your chrome center caps my 2016 keystone has chrome center caps with plugs that can be pried off with a screwdriver the end about the size of a silver dollar. Then you can access the rubber ez lube plug with out removing the wheels.
Nice job,..a good presentation with instruction!
Two things: 1) I'm a little uncomfortable with screwing in the holddown nut and then backing it off 1/4 turn. I would either snug it down and spin the wheel to see if
it is binding...then back it off. Or....check with the manufacturer and get the correct torque setting. 2) an easy way to repack the bearing is fill a ziplock bag
with grease and drop in the bearing....then knead the grease into the bearing while it's in the clear bag....much more efficient and you don't ever dirty your hands.
There is no "torque setting" for axle castle nuts. They are not meant to be tight otherwise the angular contact bearing will not rotate freely and will fail quickly. The process shown in the video is exactly what the manufacturer recommends.
@@FateUnbound It's 50 ft-lbs for many to "seat" them together. Then, you back off and finger tighten. Personally, I don't use a torque wrench guesstimating the torque with, again, the point being that I seat the bearings.
Ron, don't get "ANY" ON YA!
E for effort !
I would....
Use RED grease it has a higher temperature rating.
Apply grease from other side of bearing. Clean bearings out with paint thinner to remove all old grease and let dry. Inspect bearings and races. Hand packing is better. Inspect & adjust breaks while the wheel is off of the ground.
The e-z wheel you used red grease; mixing gray/brown grease w/red is not good.
By not removing drum you can not inspect bearings/races/brakes = poor mx; trouble just waiting to happen!