Electro Etch Deep Enough for Branding Iron
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- Опубликовано: 6 май 2018
- Check out my LATEST ELECTRO ETCHING VIDEO HERE - POSTED NOVEMBER 2019
Electro Etching Various Metals- Copper, Aluminum, Steel, Damascus • Electro Etching Variou...
PART 2 - The Followup to this video is HERE: • Make a Branding Iron w...
Today we go thru cutting the vinyl mask and preparation for etching into steel. Figured I would share my process of making the decal, preparing the material, and applying the decal with heat.
I want to test to see how deep I can get an etch and if its possible for me to make a branding iron that can be used to leave a makers mark on wood or leather. I do not have a CNC machine, nor do I really want to attack a hand engraving for this just yet, but if I can come up with something that works, why not!?
DC POWER SUPPLY - DC Power Supply Adjustable (0-30 V 0-10 A), Eventek KPS3010D Variable Switching Regulated Digital Power Supply with Alligator Leads US Power Cord www.amazon.com/dp/B073TW8H2S/...
In this video I was using common mild steel.
You can pick up 12x18 sheets or similar at most home stores.
I love your input, so if you have any ideas or constructive criticism, please let me know in the comments below!
Please click thumbs up if this was helpful to you at all... and subscribe! I appreciate it!
pro-tip, if u use a wet sponge between the two electrodes in stead of the huge water bath it would lower the resistance significantly resulting in much efficient and faster result
Good job. Just a note on electrics: A bench power supply is essentially a CONSTANT voltage source. If your voltage drops from 6 to a lower voltage then the supply unit is self-limiting and the etching solution has become more conductive. A saline solution rather than plain water would likely even out the solution conductivity. You need a voltage source with a greater current capacity. A power supply with a CONSTANT current option should also be considered
We have a 1927 Buick and the original fuel gauge was not only not operational when we rescued the car after sitting 30+ years untouched but also when I attempted to clean the gauge any markings for “F 3/4 1/2 2/4 and E” came right off!
I had seen a video on YT about etching using a small battery or a battery trickle charger, a Q Tip, and some water/salt mixture as an electrolyte!
So I used a 1.5 amp motorcycle trickle charger…
I masked the gauge after cleaning and hooked the leads up from the charger to the fuel gauge, obviously it wasn’t in a tank of fuel, and to the cotton of my Q Tip, and dipped the cotton into the water/salt mixture and I believe I used a splash of vinegar in the mixture if u recall.
I friend replicated the original markings for me with his vinyl plotter, I etched the face of the gauge using this simple method and got a very deep etch.
After etching the gauge face I used a gas tank sealer in the relief left before unmasking, then used a 0000 steel wool to remove any excess black fuel tank sealer in the markings in the fuel gauge face and it also polished up the aluminum face itself!
Came out looking brand new!!!!
I’ve since shared this on a classic car forum and it’s been used many times over!
Very simple method that ANYONE can do!!!
I thought surely this would work. Glad to see someone finally trying it as a brand.
Thanks for watching and the comment! i’m not sure if you caught the second video but I actually tested it and got a decent brand : ruclips.net/video/kCosNxS4hVQ/видео.html
Great idea 💡 and great follow-through in your execution. Kudos 👏
Whoa, definitely worth it to etch and brand your own logos. Awesome vid
Very cool!! Thanks for the video
I have been frantically looking for a decent power supply for electro etching but no luck until I stumbled upon this video that clearly shows the brand you're using and sure enough, there it is on amazon but because I know nothing about electronics, it didn't show up in any of my searches because it isn't specifically an etching tool. Now I know better and thank you for showing your power supply :)
Snorri Ö.K. Thanks for watching - I’m
glad it helped you out... also appreciate the comment!
This was very cool and you give me some ideas. I am just getting into leather working and this will come in handy thanks for the video.
Jeff Arp thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! I love it when a video can spark some new ideas...good luck with your projects, and if you come up with something cool, please stop back and share!!
@@fleanine ok thanks, same to you because I get inspired by watching every body else's videos.
Many many thanks bro... 🤘
Very cool your video may have just helped me out with a future project
Awesome. Glad it may be helpful! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
thx man you are amazing. thank for information about the time . very use full
Very interesting ! How deep can engraving be done? Thank you !
Excellent info. 👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hekatonkheires ! Thanks for watching! Glad you got something out of it!
Great video man, Thanks for share.
Thanks for taking time to comment! I appreciate it, really glad it was helpful. If you haven't seen them, i have a couple other vids I link in the description for the follow up-and another video with more about the actual "recipe" and voltages etc for various metals! Cheers!
I am definitely going to check them out, I will be trying to use this method of engraving to my custom tumbler business. Check us out on IG @cwcreativedesigns
Hey there boss awesome video I enjoyed it very much it was very informative because I was thinking about buying a metal cutting CNC machineOr a laser printer but this seems way more affordable. I look forward to your 6 hour results video.
Thanks for sharing! Grandsons knife touch mark!
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. I appreciate it!
Great video! Just the method I needed. I tried today. It took one hour to get things ready and I kept a steel plate two hours in saltwater with 6 V voltage. Results are what I was hoping. Thank you sir!
Awesome! You’re quite welcome! I’m glad it was helpful, Thanks for sharing...I appreciate it!
How many amps?
thanks, that was great
Great video, have you tried this with a toner as the resist?
Make more please. Thanks
Excuse me, what should I do about salty water after etching?can I throw away it?
Excellent video tutorial, thank you brother I want to know the materials used in the video, thanks for the effort
Definitely worth exploring this technique. A few questions:
* will any regular vinyl work and remain on the metal sheet through the etching process?
* how / where do you dispose/discard the gross resulting water?
Thanks
Thanks for share
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. I really appreciate it! Also i have a playlist with other etching videos.. Have a look! ruclips.net/p/PLWT95-YNcJQ-a97KD8fKynnWMg5ZZC9Oj
More please.
Follow up video posted:
ruclips.net/video/kCosNxS4hVQ/видео.html
I need some advice, will this material you are using work on a laser cutter. I have an Otur laser cnc and want to make templates for my knife etching! Orr can you recommend one for me.
Labyrinth reference... Subscribed!
Heck yeah! I appreciate it!
Nice video....
Great idea, realize purpose here is to test how deep you could erch it. Thinking if that pic is what you want to brand into some thing you should weed the vinyl to leave the lines and etch the big spaces so the lines are the raised portion on the metal.
You are correct. I have another video after this one where I actually test it - only I weed out the negative space and etch that out. Also in thicker metal. ruclips.net/video/kCosNxS4hVQ/видео.html
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
You can screen print mask as well with resist ink.
great video, thanks for taking the time to share. I've been watching videos on youtube on the subject for the last few weeks. Your video is definitely the best. I did have one question I can't seem to get an answer to. Does the size between the anode and cathode have any effect? Does the orientation of either plate have an effect? I notice you tend to face your two plates against eachother. I assume there's something to that. Have you tried cleaning your solution mid-etch just to see if it increases it's effectiveness for extra deep etching? Have you noticed any under-cutting on vinyl decals?
C.J. Thank you for watching and commenting! I appreciate that! The size between anode/cathode -I just figure should be similar to the face size or mass of the other object.Ultimately it probably doesn’t really matter. Just gives it more surface area for electrodes to go.. at least that’s how it seems in my head.;) I really don’t think there’s a big difference with orientation, I just try to face them toward each other so the spacing is equal. Cleaning the solution midway would definitely help. You shouldn’t get too much undercut as long as you really clean everything and heat it when you apply the vinyl -if it’s good vinyl.
Thanks again for watching! It’s great to hear positive feedback, and I try to be helpful when I can! Cheers!
What is the solution in the bin? And did bare wire go into the liquid? Scary! .....but I want to try it cuz I LOVE doing all sorts of this type of thing with my cricut cutter!
Good job, but how much volts did you use??
What was the type of metal used on the negative side?
This is super interesting to me. I have a few questions that you can hopefully answer. For the purposes of these questions I'll refer to the piece being etched as the work piece, and the part that you connect the negative lead to the cathode.
1) Does the cathode have to be the same size as the work piece?
2) If so, the same size as the entire piece, or just the same size as the area being etched?
3a) Does the cathode have to be the same material as the work piece, of does it simply need to be a conductive material?
3b) ex. if the work piece is steel or aluminum and the cathode is copper, would that copper plate the piece rather than etching it?
4) Does the cathode also get etched during this process?
5) Assuming the process flows from negative to positive, does placing the leads opposite (negative to work piece, and positive to cathode) result in etching the cathode more than the work piece?
Thank you for your time in responding and your great videos!
Walter
Please see my method above as well, it might be a bit easier!
Though the method in the video above is less hands on and will provide no worries of etching deeper in one area than another since the entire area being etched is being done all at one time vs the method I used that I shared above…..
Good information - clear and concise, so thank you. You've probably answered this question before, but what mil vinyl are you using?
Any Oracal vinyl i have used works fine, either the 541 or 641 are great. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Looks nice. Do you know a good way to darken the etching afterwards? For what I'm doing I want a shallow but dark etching.
Preed ferric chloride solution should give you the look you want. It will darken the whole thing and then you can shine up the surface leaving only the low spots dark.
You can get a thing called PermaBlue and apply it before you remove the stencil. It's main purpose is for blueing or blackening metal and it happens instantly
It's a great job. What kind of film do you use for masking?
Very good Man. I loved the video. I became curious about one thing. Can you tell me what is the vinil You are using?. I see Oracal but I can not see the number. I have tried with some tape but it started pealing with the etching and I had to stop it. It would be nice to use the same kind of vinil or something with similar specs. Thank you in advance for your reply. Good job
I typically use Oracal 651 . Seems to work consistently well. Just really important to have a super clean surface first. Thanks for watching!
@@fleanine Thank you Sir. Keep up the nice stuff.
Hi fleanine,
Really interesting video keep it up with the good work you're doing. I just wanted to tell you that the reason why the power supply is not giving more volts is because you are limiting the current to 2.38 ampere, you need to crank up the left dials to allow for more current to flow, given that your power supply can give up to 5 amps.
Hope it helps :)
Martí Gibert Roca Actually that was turned up all the way and in some of my other tests it would go up -but for some reason, the conductivity in the solution wasn’t allowing it in this case... kinda weird. Thanks for watching!! I appreciate your comment!
*Actually at 3:20 when I put the piece in _you can see it started off right around 5...
Sat Solt watter
Thanks for this! Great job!
One question: did the etch have any undercut?
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! there is little to no undercut if the mask is applied on a nice clean surface and is rubbed down well. I have a more recent video here that may show it a bit more for you…. Also on other metals …
ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
@@fleanine great!! Thanks so much! Keep up the great work :)
Hi, awesome video. The voltage was 6 volts. How high were your amps set at?
The current went up to 4.52 in the video. So it was set at some value above that.
What was in the solution you used?
Do you think that’s possible with silver?
have you ever done a stainless steel mug in this manner? I've been trying and have not had good luck. Would love to see you do it!
Sorry this is a bit late, but YUP! Electrical tape as the mask, and nail polish to put the small dots like the center dot in A, B, R, P, Q, G, F, D, S, E, etc. Those tiny features will not come out right with electrical tape as there isn't enough tape there to really hold on and it will come off on it's own, so doing all the letter with tape, then put a drop of nail polish and use a needle to scrape around to make the dot works quite well. I've done several that way and it works quite well. Make sure you have good ventilation as you will be generating hydrogen gas, chlorine gas, etc while etching. Both flammable and poisonous!
i have a question , i just started electro etching (thx to your vids) and i`ve done a few knives but now i want to do a butcher axe... its pretty big and my question is : does negative piece of iron needs to be as big as the axe or just a random size piece?
Jean De Painter I would try to at least match the surface area, not so much the mass. At least as closest possible to each other.
@@fleanine thank you for the fast reply , i`ll keep that in mind , with tha knives i used a piece of perforated plate i had laying around and that worked perfectly but for this i guess it isnt enought .. i`ll go out for a plate tomorrow , i`ll keep you updated ;) thanks again
How did you remove the mask?
is it some gel you used in electrolyte? thanks for good upload.
Sumant Jogdand hello! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! If you check out my latest video on etching I have more specific details (the recipe) on the solution listed in the video as well as the etching times and voltage settings. ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
Saltwater is commonly used.
I want to etch a motive with small and distinct details, the size of the details is about a half millimeter.
What’s the best best way to do that? Can I use a stamp with paint to stamp the motive on the steel, so that the paint act as a protection from the etching water? What kind of ”paint” should I use?
You could use nail polish and scrape it off after your etch.. or even packing tape and cutting it out with a fine blade if the image allows... hope that helps! Good luck. Thank you for watching !
Nice video. I have some questions. After the process is done the water is toxic? Can i throw the water without problems?the negative metal has to have the same size as the positive? is there any problem if the wire touches the water?Thanks a lot
Hi and thanks for watching and for your questions. I tend to reuse my water as much as I can and I'm sure there are some less than ideal byproducts created with this and cant really tell you exactly how to dispose of it (maybe not just down the drain of the house) although most local dumps and trash collection places have some place to bring chemicals etc. May be something to look into if you decide to do this often. The negative (in my experience) is good to have around the same size, but i don't think its absolutely necessary. If the wire touches the water, it will just etch and eventually corrode itself. I have a new video that goes more into depth with my set up and explains more about some of the questions you had. Have a look: ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
Very interesting, thank you for sharing. This opens up new worlds for me.
I haven't watched your follow up video so maybe you already realized, but I would think that if your goal is to make a branding iron you would want to etch the background, not the lines. You would be removing a lot more material that way. Would that take longer to do?
I’m glad it helped.. and you are correct... in the follow up video I do address the fact that the image should be inverted for branding. I actually make one and test it out! It didn’t take too long to etch. I did use a thicker metal and went way deeper.Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! I appreciate it!
Yes, I've seen the follow up now. Well done! It's a tremendously better way to make a branding iron than carving/grinding the steel.
Do you use removable vinyl or permanent vinyl for etching?
I use Oracal 651 vinyl for most of my etching just because it’s what I have -but even a lower tack vinyl would probably work as long as your metal is good and clean when you apply it.Thanks for watching!
will this work on aluminum?
Do you think this would work for super fine detail? I'm talking hairline fine.
I'm looking to create nail stamping plates for my wife so the images are a cm across with a lot of fine details.
it would depend on how deep you need to go, and what you were using to mask the details. you can get fine details if you have a different method of applying ( maybe painting image on with nail polish and tiny brush or using some kind of transfer.. i know there are places that will print small etching masks for knife makers etc.. may be something to investigate.. but once you have your mask its just playing around with time and electricity to fine tune the etch. if you're doing things as small as you are referring to, you can also avoid a deep bath and just use a q tip or cotton ball with the solution and wipe it over your mask to have ultimate control and sneak up on it gradually..... i hope this helps.
@@fleanine I probably only need to remove a mm or 2 of material. I'd like to use vinyl as the mask since my wife has a Cricut machine that's pretty well suited for that.
I hadn't thought of printing a mask. Maybe using toner transfer. It works for PCBs which can have very fine details, might work for my purposes.
Thanks for the insights!
will this work on a blued rifle receiver? or do i need to get it to bare metal
Thank you for stopping by and taking the time to comment! I also have a newer video that explains a little bit more about my “recipe“... ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
I think if all you did was heat treat or “blue” the metal it would etch as long as you had a decent masking material/ resist that would hold up and you cleaned off any oils beforehand...for a rifle etc you wouldn’t need to leave it etching long to get a nice etch. I would try to test with something similar to figure out timing and voltage.
Also -look into etching with a 9volt battery and q-tips or cotton balls... you can control the etch and work on specific areas and be highly controlled about it. If you give it a whirl, Let me know how it works for ya!
It will remove the bluing as the bluing is essentially just a controlled oxidation..id just remove the bluing and get it reblued afterwards if you will submerge the whole receiver or use a cotton ball with the negative and just etch that way.
how much is the depth? in mm?
What is the solution ratio? I want a deep etch for a wax seal stamp. I've seen the salt water solution and vinegar salt solution but first time seeing all 3.
Really all ya need is a good portion of one of the Morton salt containers -little more than 1/3- maybe 1/2 of a container for a few gallons. If you’re doing smaller items you could probably do it with about a gallon of water to 1/4 container of salt. You really can’t go wrong. Just warm the water and mix the salt in well. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
@@fleanine How big are those salt containers, 26oz?
Preed the ones I used were the 26oz. I used about half of that for a few gallons of water.
Does this work for aluminium too???will electro etching give the same desired depth to aluminium too???
i don't see why not, you may have to play around with the settings etc and do a few tests, but the functionality should be the same. Thanks for watching and commenting!
This inspired me to try making airbrush stencils with thin steel foil. Hopefully it works well and works quickly. Will let you know if it does, probably will...thanks.
Awesome to hear! Thanks for taking the time to comment. That sounds like a great idea for stenciling, please do let me know how it goes or if you post, please share! Thanks again for stopping by!
@@fleanine It didn't work well at all. The solid areas that were to be completely etched out, didn't etch evenly or cleanly. I backed it with tape and tried without. Without backing tape the whole thing just dissolved into a mess that fell apart. I pretty much gave up the idea of using laser printed resist paper for making good stencils. I looked at the Cricket cutters by they don't do fine details, and the really cheap laser cutters are rather dangerous to use because no real shielding and crude details. Gave UP. Was a fun experiment.
How can I get this procedure to work on etching a serial number into some small steel items. The number would be approx 3/16" tall. I surmise the hard part would be to construct a mask that could have that kind of detail, eh? The etch would only have to be about 0.03" deep.
Robert Rominger You could paint on a resist or something similar like a sharpie or maybe nail polish and just scratch out what you want.. for smaller etches you can ause a q-tip and just swab the particular area until you get what you want. Thanks for watching !
@@fleanine I was wondering if you could draw with a crayon or wax pencil for the resist. A crayon obviously wouldn't give the detail that some people would need, but a wax pencil
what solution did you use here thanks in advance
Hi there thanks for watching. I have a more current video that includes all the details of my mix and how it affects various metals. Check it out here: ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
What did you mix with the water at what amount?
Abrar Faisal Haque just hot water and about a third /half of a container of Morton salt. Stir in some hot water right before you begin etch, I find it helps. A way to circulate water-flow is also a good idea if you can make that happen. Thanks for the watch and comment! Don’t forget to subscribe!
@@fleanine thanks
Did you use just water or did you add some salt to the water?
I did add salt . If you check out my playlist for etching I have a few more recent videos where I go Into much more detail and with various types of metals as well.
Thanks for watching!
Which acid you used to cut steel plate
For steel, and in this video, i used only salt (electrolyte) and water.
This is awesome. Does it matter what kind of metal you use to do this??
For this test it was just mild steel readily available at hardware stores, or your local scrap yard. I have personally tried mild steel, stainless steel, and copper and had good results. Its all about the electrolyte mix and the current. A long slow etch with not too much voltage is best. Sometimes I get impatient and when testing things like this and I'll crank it up to get results faster... but ultimately its up to what kind of results you expect vs. how much time you invest. Thanks again for watching!
So say I were to take on a project that required etching into a piece of steel, say 4mm thick.. this would work correct??
sure... the piece i used in the video was 1/4" steel and i could have kept going had i not started to lose the thin mask of the outline, but you could (in theory) just eat right thru the back of the piece if you left it long enough and the mask held up.
Ryan Eglinton sorry it was the next vid I used the thicker metal- have a look- ruclips.net/video/kCosNxS4hVQ/видео.html
What is the material used as the Cathode.?
I just used a piece -about 5 x 7 inches -of the same material I’m etching.
I beg you, can I contact you? I want to know what this device is and what material that made the piece eaten. Please, my brother
wissam scofild i added a link to a power supply similar to the one i use in the video as well as the steel type. Any steel will work just depends on how thick/ and how deep you want to etch. You could do smaller etchings/ resists with other types of sticky paper/ tape/ nail polish etc... I use the vinyl because i have it. I hope this helps out. Thanks for watching, and please don’t forget to subscribe!
@@fleanine Thank you for this beautiful explanation Yes I have been involved with you but I want to buy from this machine and I am from Iraq
@@fleanine I want to communicate with on your watsab please
@@wissamscofild1531 Kev halak?
@@wissamscofild1531 Al Ham Dulah
Thank You , Pl Note in word when u ,use the liquid and other meterial step by step .
thank you aging ,i am from sri lanka.
Thanks for the comment! I have another more recent video where i go into depth about the settings and various metals and how they react. Have a look in my etching playlist.... ruclips.net/p/PLWT95-YNcJQ-a97KD8fKynnWMg5ZZC9Oj
New Subscriber
DERIO PINO very cool! Thanks for watching!! Much appreciated
Can you do this to zinc?
Thanks for the question. I haven't tried this on zinc yet, but maybe something for an upcoming video!
Be careful with zinc fume of any sort, kind of deadly
What is the solution? I never heard, you just added the water, is it salt?
Yes, just salt and water. I have a more recent video i just posted a few days ago with a better "recipe" that shows the amounts of water vs. salt and voltages etc for various metals! Thanks for watching and i hope that helps you out with your projects!!! ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
So is this just water and electricity? No added mixture in the water?
And salt. Otherwise, that’s it .
@@fleanine cheers. I want to start making viking style axes. Seems like a decent method to engrave without taking ages doing it by hand.
For sure . And with vey little investment you can test a few times and get it right. I’m sure it’ll work out once you figure out your perfect ratio of time / salt concentration etc.
I found the reason for the voltage and amp dropping was because the tape over the positive lead on the item you are etching gets an air gap or the solution gets in behind it and causes the positive lead not to make contact with the peace you're etching. My solution, since I weld, was to tack a filler rod on the back, and then fold electrical tape over the filter rod and use that as the positive wire. I would suggest taking your positive wire, and either using a mini torch, or soldering iron, and solder on the wire to the peace your etching. After I tacked my positive lead on, it remained the same voltage and amps whether I was running 12 volts or 6 volts for 2 hours.
Hot glue, then tape over it might be another option.
although i think some of the droppage was due to the settling /lack of temperature and circulation i will give your technique a try! thanks for reporting back! i appreciate it and will give it a try next time around!
Is this battery charger? How much Watts/Volt
Link to actual power supply in the description of the video. Thanks for Watching !
good job! congratulations! would you like to try someday a nice deep etch to stainless steel? best of luck!
eda flyboy Thank you for stopping by and watching and taking time to comment. If you check out my etching playlist I have a couple more recent videos in which I do etch deep enough for a branding iron...also a video that shows more the actual recipe that I’ve found works on various metals (including damascus) although I didn’t do stainless steel, the results would be similar. ruclips.net/p/PLWT95-YNcJQ-a97KD8fKynnWMg5ZZC9Oj
@@fleanine thanks for your tips, it´s a pretty good job! the reason why i ask for stainless steel, because it´s a bit tricky. it creates a bit weird rough backgroung like here: here::armstreet.com/etching.html and www.finishing.com/284/09.shtml anyway, keep working & best of luck!
@eda flyboy Maybe the next time I set up I’ll do an update with stainless as well. Thanks for sharing the links , I’ll check it out!
@@fleanine thank you, that´s very kind of you! best of luck!
Hi what of vinyl works best???
I use Oracal 451 vinyl, but any decent vinyl will do, as long as you clean the material really well before application and heat the mask.
fleanine thanks for the info
How many voltage u supplied ?
For this experiment I think the settings were about 6 V and about 4 1/2 Amps. I have another video in my electro etching playlist, that has a bit more details on the ratio of water /salt / current and the results on different metals. Thanks for watching!
Check it out here:
ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
@@fleanine thanks nice response bro nd u r doing great keep it up ❤️ I loved ur video so much
how much for the dose of water, and salt
kumbang hitam Hello there and thank you for watching. If you check out my more recent video I have an exact recipe you can follow that will work for various metals... also other links in video description as well.
ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
Did you try other voltages?
Have you ever tried to use a weld inverter instead of this DC Power Supply? You cannot control the voltage, but you can increase the current to higher levels, from 10 to 130 / 140 A...
Tiago Carneiro Monteiro actually... i haven’t tried with a weld inverter... I have tried higher voltages, but it leads to a more pity etch and it’s a lot more aggressive /not very smooth. I have a follow up video listed in the description of this video that shows a deeper brand on a different piece of metal... and a test burn. As well as an older video here: that shows the difference between a higher current etch and a “slow and steady” etch...
Electro-Etching Steel using vinyl mask- Attempt #2 ruclips.net/video/ncWXVOzNGbA/видео.html
Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it!
@@fleanine I saw that video you're talking about. I think in a branding iron the pity background doesn't matter a lot, no? I'm trying to find a way to make a branding iron, with about 2mm deep etching... I'll try it with my inverter (I work as welder, so, it's the better DC current supply I have...) :D
By the way, one more subscriber.
Tiago Carneiro Monteiro I really appreciate it!! 👍🏻 I’ll try and keep it interesting - any questions or suggestions are always welcome! Cheers!
Tiago Carneiro Monteiro You are correct, wouldn’t matter as much in the background, however if you have finer/ thin lines it may eat up under the mask too fast and ruin the “edge” of the line if that makes sense. It’s definitely worth a shot, and if/when you try it, definitely let me know how it goes! I’m curious now.
Hi, but can you tell me what the solution is ??
Hi and thanks for watching. I actually have a more recent video in my etching playlist that explains the exact ratios and voltages etc. for different metals. Basically just salt and water will get you there..
Here’s the latest video : ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
I want to make my touch mark this way if I can etch deep enough.
can you do this in stainless steel?
I have etched stainless before with a similar technique, only instead of actually dunking it in the bath of water, I just used a high salt content/water solution and soaked a cotton ball for the cathode... and just repeatedly wiping over the mask until I got the desired etch. If you want a deep etch and want to save time i would say this could work! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@fleanineTnx for the answer. Another question I have this project that requires me to put a depth marker on a pools edge and the client wants a stainless sheet material. Any idea on how can I put a colored print (red & black)
or etch on a stainless steel?
You think this process would work on the back of a golf club without altering the club face??
I don't see why that wouldn't work... as long as the rest of the club that was submerged was covered properly so the etch only affected the desired area. Also depending on the type of metal the club is made from, it would be good to test a small piece first to figure out the settings etc. Thanks for watching and commenting!
My vinyl keeps coming off!
is it salt water ?
Yes it is. If you watch my more recent video i go thru the process a bit more/ and add text on screen that shows the different ratios of water/ salt/ time / metal etc. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching! ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
If that's a branding iron you forgot to flip the image. I'll be trying this soon
Thanks for watching, and stopping by to comment!. I have a part 2 where i address that. This was more just to see if i could get a deep enough etch. PART 2 - The Followup to this video is HERE: ruclips.net/video/kCosNxS4hVQ/видео.html Good luck with your project!
Yo didn say if is just water or ...?
Its salt and water mixed. I have a more recent video here: ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html that explains all the ratios of water/ salt and electricity for various metals. Thanks for watching!
@@fleanine
Thanks for the quick response, subbed
It just regular salt?
Andika Satya Wisnu yup. I used Morton salt available in any grocery store. About half of one of the smaller containers. Thank you for watching!
Ok, good. And how about the amps? How many amps
Andika Satya With my power supply i set it for around. 5/6 volts and it regulates the amps - I believe it starts off around 5amps and starts to trail as the solution gets cooler ( I started with hot water in the mix so the electrolytes from the salt carry more electricity) it tapers off slightly as you go.
Ok, i got it. Thanks a lot bro.. 👍
Would be good to watch if the camera was steady.
Don Baker yeah sorry about that. I have a more recent video in my etching playlist that is probably a bit less shaky for you - and has similar techniques with a bit more of a recipe. Check it out ruclips.net/p/PLWT95-YNcJQ-a97KD8fKynnWMg5ZZC9Oj
photo etching machine is very good demand in china.
I feel like you should have etched the negative, for branding.
Hi there and thanks for watching! If you watch my next video (link also in description), I address that :) this was more just to see if I could etch deep enough. I end up making one and testing it out... check it out! ruclips.net/video/kCosNxS4hVQ/видео.html
What kind of steel is that? Ms or ss?
raghu ram This is just mild steel from the Home Depot. Think it was 18g
Sir this xparimants faild
Thanks for taking the time to comment! Sorry you had bad luck with your experiment ..
You would want to reverse your pattern
Gary Raymo you are correct . I have another video where I cut the reverse decal and etch and test the brand. I used the decal I had laying around on this test for depth mainly to see if I could keep it in the solution long enough to go deep enough. Here’s a link to the other video :
m.ruclips.net/video/kCosNxS4hVQ/видео.html
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I appreciate it.
Great video, have you tried this with a toner as the resist?
Hello there... and thanks for taking the time to comment! That is a great question.. unfortunately, I haven't tried that yet, but I am curious as to how that would work. I recently bought a laser printer to try a different transfer method unrelated to etching.... I'm currently working on a new etching video - it just may be a good time to test that out! Stay tuned! Thanks for the question!
fleanine thank you for your response. I have already tried with toner and the pnp and the toner alone didn’t hold up too great but the pnp held on very good, I wasn’t able to get a good transfer so it was pitted pretty bad. If you try it give me a heads up on your luck with it.
What gauge of steel was that?
This was a piece of 16 or 22g steel . You pick up at most big box stores for pretty cheap. Usually come in a 12x24 inch piece or so.Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-12-in-x-24-in-16-Gauge-Steel-Sheet-56070/205058577?MERCH=REC-_-PLP_Browse-_-NA-_-205058577-_-N
@@fleanine Thanks for replying. I have one more question. Is the solution just plain hot water and salt?...if not, what is it because you really never explained. Or unless I missed it!. Thanks
Howard Bolden i actually have a couple other videos (one a bit older, and one i just posted about 2 days ago that shows various metals and the exact solution and ratio of salt / water / settings for different metals) please have a watch! I tried to be a bit more specific in the details so the results would be repeatable should you want to try it yourself... Electro Etching Various Metals- Copper, Aluminum, Steel, Damascus ruclips.net/video/Jab0X2MuK5s/видео.html
@@fleanine Thanks alot!