Very useful video. Thanks! For the lock cylinder, it's so easy to replace for you because your key turns. Pop off top column cover. Disconnect battery. Turn key to Start. Insert skinny pick into top hole. Ignition lock pops out. Insert new lock. Done. Then do 30 minute Relearn Procedure: connect battery. Turn ignition On for 10 minutes until security light turns off. Turn off for 10 seconds. Repeat 3 times. After third time, start car.
Also, if you wanted to remove the old Park Lock Cable from the ignition lock housing, it's simple but a little tricky: flip off white plastic retention clip off park lock cable. Depress black tab. Park lock cable will slide out partially. It is locked in with ignition lock. So remove ignition lock cylinder by rotating it to Start and using pick in top hole to pop it out. Then stick large flat blade screwdriver in ignition lock hole to manually rotate ignition to OFF. And Park Lock Cable will fully release. Then with ignition in OFF, insert new park lock cable, then with screwdriver manually rotate ignition back to Start, replace lock cylinder.
By "rotating the ignition to park" do you mean to say ignition should be rotated to "off"? And any chance you ever encountered the issue with the park lock cable somehow engaging with the ignition actuator in such a way that it will only rotate between off and acc (freely) but will not rotate passed acc to the run position? And is the procedure possibly a potential remedy?
@@00jonesin Yes, "rotate ignition to Park" should be "rotate to Off". I've experienced that the ignition rotates less freely when the park lock cable is inserted (with the lock cylinder out). To turn it from Off to Start, it takes more force to rotate with a large screwdriver than when the park lock cable is not inserted. So the park lock cable does seem to block or impede the rotation a bit.
I know this comment was 8 months ago but I almost set my truck on fire because I couldn’t get that cable out. You saved this truck of mine, and I thank you so much for it.
What is the 2nd cable? Im blowing a fuse trying to figure it out. Not even chatgpt 4.0 has a definitive answer. The 2nd shifter linkage looking cable on the right that is being popped on and off. Every Shift cable lever I look up for my 01 chevy silverado 1500 ls 4wd, shows up with 1 little ball point, but mine and your's as shown, have 2. 1 on either side for both shifter linkage cables to connect to. the one of the right keeps popping out of place when I put the shifter into and out of park. at 9:00 you're putting both of them back on.
Shifter interlock solenoid is the other half on the system, when it goes bad it doesn’t let you shift into gear because it binds up. That’s the issue I’m having with my truck, I’m going to replace both parts
The shifter linkage to the transmission underneath the truck has a plastic bushing that tends to wear out after soo many years and that can also give you slop in the shifter handle
I got slop back in my shifter a while after this. My cable ended up stretching. I couldn’t get into park or 1. There is a bs adjustment on the cable, it’s all plastic. With teeth that strip very easily. I luckily was able to pull a cable off my parts truck. I wouldn’t be super hopeful that the adjustment could be made with out breaking. They get super bridle. My trucks at 255k and north east winters. The cable was sloppy.
maybe someone can help , my 02 sierra will shift into PRND fine ,only if i have my brake pedal to the floor if i have it about 75% to the floor it will shift into D but will stay in 1st gear unless i turn the truck off and hit the brake all the way to the ground
Good job GM. I hope they keep producing shittier plastic products. My 60s 70s and 1 80s trucks are pretty tight and right. However my 04 2500hd is the laughing stock of the junkyard. Im a diehard gm guy but damn those ratty bastards make it hard. Ill never own a newer chevy again. Ill stick to the old stuff. Or buy a tundra😂😂😂
@@aaronfrandsen9160 they all junk anymore. These trucks are modern enough that they are comfortable to drive and parts available. But I think they are the last trucks capable of being fixed at home.
Very useful video. Thanks! For the lock cylinder, it's so easy to replace for you because your key turns. Pop off top column cover. Disconnect battery. Turn key to Start. Insert skinny pick into top hole. Ignition lock pops out. Insert new lock. Done. Then do 30 minute Relearn Procedure: connect battery. Turn ignition On for 10 minutes until security light turns off. Turn off for 10 seconds. Repeat 3 times. After third time, start car.
Also, if you wanted to remove the old Park Lock Cable from the ignition lock housing, it's simple but a little tricky: flip off white plastic retention clip off park lock cable. Depress black tab. Park lock cable will slide out partially. It is locked in with ignition lock. So remove ignition lock cylinder by rotating it to Start and using pick in top hole to pop it out. Then stick large flat blade screwdriver in ignition lock hole to manually rotate ignition to OFF. And Park Lock Cable will fully release. Then with ignition in OFF, insert new park lock cable, then with screwdriver manually rotate ignition back to Start, replace lock cylinder.
By "rotating the ignition to park" do you mean to say ignition should be rotated to "off"?
And any chance you ever encountered the issue with the park lock cable somehow engaging with the ignition actuator in such a way that it will only rotate between off and acc (freely) but will not rotate passed acc to the run position? And is the procedure possibly a potential remedy?
@@00jonesin Yes, "rotate ignition to Park" should be "rotate to Off". I've experienced that the ignition rotates less freely when the park lock cable is inserted (with the lock cylinder out). To turn it from Off to Start, it takes more force to rotate with a large screwdriver than when the park lock cable is not inserted. So the park lock cable does seem to block or impede the rotation a bit.
I know this comment was 8 months ago but I almost set my truck on fire because I couldn’t get that cable out. You saved this truck of mine, and I thank you so much for it.
You are the absolute man. Only issue i had with this and you just saved my ass
What all tools do I need for thi?
What is the 2nd cable? Im blowing a fuse trying to figure it out. Not even chatgpt 4.0 has a definitive answer. The 2nd shifter linkage looking cable on the right that is being popped on and off. Every Shift cable lever I look up for my 01 chevy silverado 1500 ls 4wd, shows up with 1 little ball point, but mine and your's as shown, have 2. 1 on either side for both shifter linkage cables to connect to. the one of the right keeps popping out of place when I put the shifter into and out of park. at 9:00 you're putting both of them back on.
@@CainCorvinus shift interlock solenoid. When you push the brake it releases out of park.
@@CainCorvinus the end is worn out, very common on high mileage or work trucks
Shifter interlock solenoid is the other half on the system, when it goes bad it doesn’t let you shift into gear because it binds up.
That’s the issue I’m having with my truck, I’m going to replace both parts
did this and now key won't turn all the way to start. Any ideas what else to try?
Thanks for a good and concise video
The shifter linkage to the transmission underneath the truck has a plastic bushing that tends to wear out after soo many years and that can also give you slop in the shifter handle
Just shoved a used cable in the truck. This shifter also wore out and I shoved a used one in from my parts truck. Works way better.
What was that part number one more time please
Did mine. Everything went good but can't select first gear now. Any ideas?
I got slop back in my shifter a while after this. My cable ended up stretching. I couldn’t get into park or 1. There is a bs adjustment on the cable, it’s all plastic. With teeth that strip very easily. I luckily was able to pull a cable off my parts truck. I wouldn’t be super hopeful that the adjustment could be made with out breaking. They get super bridle. My trucks at 255k and north east winters. The cable was sloppy.
maybe someone can help , my 02 sierra will shift into PRND fine ,only if i have my brake pedal to the floor if i have it about 75% to the floor it will shift into D but will stay in 1st gear unless i turn the truck off and hit the brake all the way to the ground
The shifter on mine dont even move
I’m having to do this to my 05 with only 123k
Someone was rough on it.
same here with my 2000 with only 115
20 year old parts are 20 year old parts. Mileage doesn’t matter much especially with plastic but also metal under tension
Carl Eagle
What a stupid design.all I need is a new spring I have to go through all that for a spring
Good job GM. I hope they keep producing shittier plastic products. My 60s 70s and 1 80s trucks are pretty tight and right. However my 04 2500hd is the laughing stock of the junkyard. Im a diehard gm guy but damn those ratty bastards make it hard. Ill never own a newer chevy again. Ill stick to the old stuff. Or buy a tundra😂😂😂
@@aaronfrandsen9160 they all junk anymore. These trucks are modern enough that they are comfortable to drive and parts available. But I think they are the last trucks capable of being fixed at home.
Made this unwatchable with all the hate go buy a dumb ass ford if you hate it so much