There seems to be some confusion on word choice in the Title of Preventative and Preventive. They're both correct. www.merriam-webster.com/words-at-play/preventive-or-preventative
Mines a older one or something 2000 gmc 3500 utility box bucket truck , 5.7 , the first one on that cab mount by the b pillar , mine don't have nothing there on this truck , all my newer ones do ?
Check fuel pump ground behind gas cap . Where bed and frame meet . This was my intermittent no crank/start problem fixed with sand paper . This area gets lots of moisture leads to rust and poor connection over time no a lot of info on this out there . Check it
Its really a good thing to check that ground on the passenger rear of engine it causes alot of problems! That ground on the frame under the driver seat area should be cleaned up every few years. The Rubber covers on the side post battery terminals should be removed because these side post batteries like to leak acid and trap it in the rubber cover and corrode the terminals causing lots of problems. These are 3 of the most common problems. Also the fuse boxes like to corrode make sure u have the cover on
I check and don’t have that passenger side ground. Can’t see that thinner wire on the block nor where it’s supposed to split off the harness. Have about 40 dtcs related to harness like knock, camshaft and HO2S
Could I just clip that ground on the passenger back side and run it to a different part on the block? While leaving the o-ring and clipped wire on the the block still?
Mark Shock if grounds are the only real issue then I’m gonna say that’s good to go. Especially considering that with fords for example have way more serious issues
@@markshock2254 every car has some electrical ground issues, unless they only operate under ideal conditions for electrical connection longevity. My issues on my Dodge Magnum began after driving on a 7 mile long dirt road deep into a National Forest. It was a remote recording I had to do as part of my job. Well the road is really fun with some “spirited” driving. Obviously I pushed it too hard because ever since then I’ve had a few intermittent stalling issues. I’m convinced all the “outside of the scope of its intended use” vibrations and shocks simply loosened several ground straps or the like in places I haven’t found yet. I have performed the clean and replace on every spot I can see, and curiously enough, there seems to beat least a temporary improvement every time. My point here is that the car still got driven on our Charleston, SC roads and definitely wasn’t babied at all. Yet I had not one serious electrical issue until over 160,000 miles. All of my accessories, window switches, door locks, HVAC, stereo, you name it, all works as it should. It’s not if you’ll have electrical issues, more like when, unless you drive on a pool table with desert dry air, use the vehicle regularly, and are the luckiest guy here. Every make and model suffers from reality. Mercedes, Ford, Subaru, Volvo, Chrysler, Volkswagen, Renault,you name it. What vehicle has given you the experience to declare other vehicles POS? I’m serious though. Because I will only buy that vehicle next.
@@markshock2254 The ONLY good fords are Chevy powered. In 35 years of building custom hotrods and alcohol drag boats I have yet to be contracted to build a Ford powered land / water transportation or race vehicle.
Great video! In case it helps someone-I learned to use anti seize to prevent corrosion on bolted electrical connectors on my boat. It doesn't easily wash out and it prevents corrosion of the connection.
Good suggestions for upgrading grounds ...GM vehicles aren’t the only ones with grounding issues. Anything that you run off-road can be subjected to ground damage. Good Job! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you! Totally agree that virtually every vehicle can benefit from a simple ground upgrade, even as preventative maintenance. Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe!
Found the PCM ground was barely holding on. Fix and the truck started right up. Thanks. Didn't even know it was there. It's hidden more on the Chevy Avalanche.
I always kinda wondered if I cleaned to bare metal shouldn't it rust. I guess that why you check the grounds from time to time 😲 Great video, helped my 94, gauges, cruise,wipers lol even brake lights! Crazy trucks
@@AnthonyJ350 i 1994 z71 short bed 4x4 c1500 5.7 L i paid a guy to put a break light switch in my truck well he didnt know what he was doing a he cut wires from the back of fuse box to ignition switch turn signal switch he cut all kinds of wires now im stuck and dont have a clue how to figure what wires go where witch color wires are missing in the plugs etc. Would you have a suggestion how i might go about fixing this mess im no electrician i dont like wiring but i cant afford to pay a shop to do it
Hey Anthony appreciate the advice but there is s lot more wire that are cut up under the dash ignition switch wires a couple sre messing dont kbow what color the wires are that are missing same with break light switch and the wires that come out from behind the balk head box thats down by the floor board by the firewall on drivers side
This is a great video of an often overlooked GMT-800 issue. Did the wirebrush and undercoat procedure on the grounds @ the cab mount so many times I've lost count.
So I’m also trying to sort out some odd electrical issues, but the engine has never been affected. I can’t think of anything else that HASN’T been affected. Since you dine the same procedure several times, I’m assuming you were convinced you knew the culprit after the second time you did it. By the third time, what was your thinking as far as being obviously very, very convinced you were on the right path to fixing it? I have a fair bit of knowledge about basic signal and current flow, as I’m a live sound engineer, and these things can greatly affect my job performance. Each time did you see where you could make an improvement over the previous attempt? You know how when you are trying to fix something, and you THINK you knew what was and thought you had fixed it, but then the symptom persists, you are distraught over the time spent not fixing the problem. But often problems highlight solutions. For example, even though it would appear that all of these ground straps seem to be redundant , they are not, and the impedance and current on some of them are dependent on at least one current sensor in the engine bay. “Improving” current flow post current sensor can send some systems into glitch mode. I honestly was just asking if you were finally successful. Were you? Anyone who is repeating a repair like that has got to have a good and tangible understanding how the system works. And that’s my point. Just the fact that you’re doing this so many times shows something else is wrong as well. What were your results ?
Great video, i can see how to some people asking for better angles, or for you to zoom out because they are having trouble finding the grounds is their only comment. Everybody should realize that even though it is GM some of these grounds wont be in the same exact location as this truck, due to the year make n model. This video does give you a very good starting point to look and is very helpful in saving you money. As for the ones pointing out what looks to be cracked on this truck in their comments. This video is about ground issues and maintenance. Thank you for posting the video, I will be checking all the grounds mentioned in this video on my 2010 Escalade awd 6.2L Luxury trim.
I added the second battery to my 2012. Have a stereo system with Rockford Fosgate power. Put the big the, twice. One for each battery off each side of the engine bay. I did not... NOT.. run any of my 0/1 big 3 cable through the factory amp clamp. I kept the factory ground strap there. My 8 farad capacitor has the active voltage reading display on it and it charges at 15.1 volts. I set my truck up a year ago, live in PA (by lake Erie winter weather belt). It is perfectly fine as is. Good quality (I run Sky High Car Audio and Rockford Fosgate wire) oversized O does not fit in the stock amp clamp, but good quality wire, done right, with the factory ground strap through the clamp has proven to work perfectly fine in my truck. Just food for thought for you! Thank you for a very good video!! Much appreciated and I will be under my truck checking those other grounds as soon as the weather breaks here. Thank you 👍👍
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I’ve had issues with my 07 Avalanche, it wouldn’t shut off when the key was turned off, and it was draining the battery. It’s not the same as the GMT800, but you definitely pointed me in the right direction to finding a corroded ground coming straight from the battery. Amazing video!!!
@@4g63a1 so repairing the ground fixed a lot of my issues, but I still had battery drain. We ended up replacing the fuse box and have had no issues since.
@@anandsihra I have an 07 silverado with 5.3. Having same issues for months including taking the key out and it stays running. Did the ground fix that?
Yes, in most cases the electrical components will utilize a ground running from another source, causing an extreme load on that ground wire. You can tell by the discoloration of the ground wires carrying too much load. So find the faulty ground source and replace those burnt wires....burnt wires have more resistance than normal...police cars have extra grounds on the exhaust system to calm the negative eruptions during the combustion processes of ionization and yes I'm a smart ass
Will do, its been an issue for a while now, and as im in Australia, no one knows anything about them 🤣 its been sitting at my mechanics yard for 6 months, i took it back to my shop last week. (Fyi its an 03 silverado with the 5.3 and its 4x4). Im most interested in the earth strap you outlined behind the engine on the firewall. The errors im getting are cambus voltage too low, so im positive after watching your vid its earth related 😉
@@AnthonyJ350replacing the ground that you outlined behind the engine worked. I ran mine the same way you did, similar wire ect. I checked a before and after with the meter, got .4 of an ohm before, so defiantly had a problem there. (After .1 or so). This worked for a phantom problem with excessive low idle, not shifting / delayed shifts, burning smell during shift, cylinder misfire codes ect. My guess is if you drive like this it will damage the transmission, it seems to effect the solenoids shift time. Thanks again for a great video.
@@chenzitong1 Thank you so much for giving feedback regarding this video. I'm really happy to hear it helped solve a bunch of issues on the truck. Don't forget to subscribe :)
Yep I'd say the wire behind the motor on my truck will probably be my fix for it thanks guys I'm ganna try an see if I can get my truck fixed an hopefuly it works out it wood run rely good clear the engine lite off thin like wen its hot it will lose power an not shift out sometimes not even want to go over 30mph I cud stop an Trun the truck off an it woodent fix it till the next day wen it wood be colder on it but this wormer wether has rely got it messing it up everything that can have a code for it it gets them all popping up now
Thank God I just so happened to come across your video. Now I got to find your video about the current sensor and how to run the wire through it because that is exactly what I have suspected my problem has been with my 2007 Yukon I put a aftermarket stereo and subs in it and have been having charging issues with it since and major major voltage drop
Just found this after watch tons of videos. Yours by far was the best to explain it! I have a 2012 Chevy Express 2500 and started having issues. Went and looked at the ground strap and mine is worse than that one!! It will be changed today!!! Hoping it fixes my issues.
@@AnthonyJ350 problem SOLVED!!!! Heads up for anyone that the bolt to PS pump and also to the motor mount is 15mm. You’ll need an open box end wrench and a 15mm socket (goes quicker). Van fired right up!!!
@@AnthonyJ350 it was the ground strap that’s attached to the battery ground cable (factory). It was rotten off and I gave it a little tug and it fell off. It was attached to the block (with battery wire crimped together) and then bonded to the frame. I got another strap (not the best) and grounded it to the power steering pump bolt and then to the motor mount bolt attached to the frame, turned the key and it fired right up.
I have 2001 Silverado with led taillights that was blinking everywhere and I couldn’t figure out the problem. Until I changed out the taillights to original ones, that I saw that the bulbs were dim. My fix was the ground under the driver side pillar. Thanks a lot.
My back 1 burnt in half and it still get real hot, but now a mechanic seen the front 1 was loose to engine and it's no crank, no start . Check gauges and battery lights are on and before I broke down the check engine light came on and plugged RS2 SCANNER(OXYGEN SENSOR AND CATALACK CONVERTER. Just subscribed too. Thank for help 👨
My gauges go out of control too. Way past full tank and battery checked 12.6 and when ignition on goes to 9 or below. Help me please Im going to truck now.
I would replace the wire and put a little dielectric grease where the connection meets metal to avoid corrosion later on. Hope you get it up and running soon!
Pretty sure my next-door neighbor or someone like evil. I LISTEN TO DENNIS AND ARNOLD MURRAY WITH THE SHEPHERD'S CHAPEL AND THEY PREACH FROM THE OLD KJV BIBLE AND CAN PROVIDE EVERYTHING THEY SAY IS VERSE BY VERSE AND CHAPTER BY CHAPTER. IT'S REALLY CHANGED MY LIFE. They also bring geek and Hebrew and manuscripts to English!
Long ago, Mercedes had issues with o2 sensors having issues. Well, the fix was to add a ground from the o2 sensor body to the frame. Rust, etc at the exhaust connections was not giving good ground pathway. These were the first type sensors without their own int ground in case that confuses you young ones.
But the PCM gets its ground from the vehicle and isn't it better to have a vehicle with less potential ground loops? Can you also explain why some Toyotas like an FJ Cruiser and 90's Hondas ground the valve cover? Grounding the casings must help at least for the charging system since the ground for the alternator is the back of the casing.
I have a 2006 gmc sierra 2500, when I press the brakes both rear blinkers turn on. I’ve narrowed it down to a bad ground but I’m trying to find the spot the rear light circuit grounds. Front lights work great. You have great videos that have helped a lot! Thank you for any input!
You can solder wires onto the ground wire of each taillight and nut and bolt it to the frame. Spray with Fluid Film on the grounding point of the frame afterwards.
You also have to make sure if you're adding grounds to the battery it passes through the sensor for the regulated voltage control system ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
Great video Recently got an 02 Suburban and am having starting problems. Turn the key to start and it just clicks once but won't turn over. Battery and alternator are good. Do you think Cleaning and protecting all the grounds will solve the issue before I replace the starter?
I know this is a late comment but thought I’d ask anyways, I have a 02 GMC sierra with the 8.1 and I purchased aftermarket LED tail lights to match my front aftermarket’s, they worked for a bit then couple months later they stopped working. During the day they work great. When my headlights are on is when it has issues. when I apply breaks and turn signals they don’t work. But when I just do one or the other they work. Just not both together like they should. I’ve tested many things and replaced a lot of things, rear light harness, new resistor to help with aftermarket LED, checked all my fuses and relays, rear taillight control panel, the tail lights themselves for another led taillight, the multi signal turn switch, and new turn signal relays. I’m completely stumped, I cleaned the ground points today on the drivers side frame and they seemed to be flicking like they want to work but then just quit. Weird part is the OEM tailights with regular bulbs work fine as they should. I’m guessing it’s bad wires? Or another ground I’m not seeing? If you have any ideas please let me know!
great video..i found 2 more grounds on my 01 sierra right below the gas tank fill on the frame rail..one goes to the abs module and one goes to the back of the gas tank fill cap i guess for static discharge.
I remember a ground broke off a person's truck I know and occasionally the ABS comes on like Broken Ground was not replaced yet I'm thinking now maybe that's abs it is towards the back
@@AnthonyJ350 hey do you think it's broken around with the 2001 Chevy truck seems like it wants to stall one put in reverse definitely idles down occasionally ABS or brake light comes on did have a broken ground that wasn't replaced yet not sure what these grounds are called to buy Direct Fit replacements
Loved the video. Im in the process of cleaning all the ground connections you listed in the video. I see that the small wire on the back of my engine block is covered in dry oil/dirt. Im going to move it to a different location, hopefully it helps. What gauge wire did you use for the small wire? Thanks again for the video
@@AnthonyJ350 after cleaning all the grounds and moving the location of the ecm ground my yukon still had no power. I removed the plastic battery terminal covers and the issue has not happened again. I believe this fix is needed because the ground wires were very dirty. I would also add removing the plastic terminal covers to ensure there is a good connection with the battery.
Excellent video and knowledge on possible issues with no start. I have my sister's 2010 suburban ltz with the 5.3 vortec she stopped driving for a month and it won't start, just turns over. In the fuse box it was no fuel pump relay or fuse in the slots. I added both, installed new fuel pump, new preprogrammed FSCM. I jumped the harness to the module and the fuel pump runs strong. I have no lights on the dash. Maybe grounds, ecm, pcm, etc.
@@AnthonyJ350 so I am building an rcsb it’s an 01 but fully coverted to an 07 classic but it was all apart when I got it and I connected everything and it wouldn’t crank stumbled upon your video wich was a life saver and medicine for this headache thank you 💯
Thank you very much. Now I know what caused my problem on a Escalade that I recently bought. I picked it up on the east coast and was on my way back to Chicago with it, it rain perfect for 500 miles or so and then all of a sudden I had every idiot light come on including StabiliTrak that I couldn't get rid of with the button on the dash. Once that light came on the engine started running very rough and I headed for the closest exit. It never made it down the ramp, the engine quit. That caused a $700 tow bill to the rest of the way home. It's in the shop now and so far there are two bent rods and issues with the other bank that isn't torn down yet. Looks like the engine will have to be replaced. The grounds seem to be the major cause of all this. These modern vehicles all have issues with bad grounds over time I'm told. I'm use to working on the older vehicles that never had issues like this. I wish I had seen this video before I started driving home.
The modern technology is supposed to prevent, not cause, bent rods and the like. Your computer detected something very wrong and at least one of the manifestations was the stability control light staying on. It thought that either the four wheels weren’t turning the same speeds(with allotments for curves and bumps and the like), like a wheel speed sensor, or maybe a pitch, yaw, or roll sensor was getting an intermittent connection, or even the front axle versus the rear. But the engine started running rough and ultimately bent some rods? Maybe cam position sensor went haywire? That would still shut the engine down before it ate itself. The only ways to bend a rod in a modern V8 that are likely in everyday driving would be maybe hydro-lock from ingesting water through the intake, which is crazy yet happens more than it should. People give too much throttle while driving through deep water and a lot of air intakes point downward, like a vacuum cleaner. Under higher rpm or throttle demand there is a fair bit of vacuum present in the intake tract. Low engine speeds would not allow water past the filter, much less the throttle body. But there isn’t enough time for the computer to react when the gas pedal is pressed hard and heavy demand for air intake occurs but instead there is water, in spray for, busting through the filter, and zipping past the mostly open throttle blade and even past the valves. At that point, depending on the compression ratio of the engine it takes very, very little water in the chamber during the compression cycle to prevent the piston and rod from being able to compress what is supposed to be a gas, not a liquid with, let’s say poor compression characteristics. Momentum becomes the next enemy for the next cylinder. Do you have nitrous injection on your Escalade? Didn’t think so. How about a supercharger? Extreme and instant back pressure in the exhaust system? Maybe no oil and spun a bearing, then a rod cap, then too much clearance allowed the rod to hit the cylinder wall near the bottom and bent it that way. Sounds like it was low on oil, maybe very quickly, maybe an oil cooler line broke and spewed hot oil onto a motion or speed sensor, the lifters lost pressure, making engine run like crap, and the cam sensor wouldn’t detect that to shut it down? And the oil sensors had t yet recognized there was in issue in their respective locations? A modern engine bending a rod or two is really a strange scenario unless there are several unknown circumstances. Please let us know what you found.
@@andrewhigdon8346 Thank you for the reply, Andrew. When I picked the truck up at the dealership it had fresh oil in it and it was full. It was the first thing I checked before I bought it. I did know that the engine didn't sound good and I asked the dealer if the truck would make it back to Chicago and he said he wouldn't bet on it and that's why it went for such a low price that I got it for. The body is cherry, that's the reason I bought it. There isn't a bit of rust under the truck on any panel or frame member. That part of the truck was well cared for. What was not well cared for was the drive train. After the rods were bent and it wouldn't start I had to call a tow truck to bring it straight to the mechanic that my son recommended. He attempted to get the engine running but it did the same thing for him that it did for me on the side of the road. It would race the engine and then stop running but it sounded awful. All the idiot lights came on at the same time so I think the damage was caused from an electrical problem. When the mechanic took the engine apart he called me to come in and take a look at what he had found. The first thing I noticed was bare wires all over the top of the motor and down the sides, all the conduit was off of them. Then he showed me the rockers that had white paint marks to identify the cylinder they came off of we presumed so someone had already been inside that motor. With the VVT system in that motor part of the damage might have been caused by low oil pressure but he checked the oil level and it was still at the top mark and clean. As soon as I saw the wiring I figured I needed a new harness right off the bat and all new sensors but when he took the heads off there was pieces of metal every where. Then he took the oil pan off and it was full of metal chips. He said he wouldn't think of trying to repair that motor and advised me to get another one and don't get a used one. I elected to go with a Jasper engine since the mechanic recommended it. This week he put in a new front differential because it was making noise and when he took it apart it was completely shot. Now I'm having a problem filling the gas tank even though he changed the canister. I guess that means the lines are clogged? This truck has also had a transmission problem from a standing stop to first gear. This jump happened six times since I've put on a little over 1,000 miles on the truck. I'm sure who ever had this truck and who ever worked on it didn't change the fluids like they should have. When I'm finished with this truck it will be better than new. :-)
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, all the lights in the dash are off and it runs good except six different times it hesitated and jumped from a stop to moving again. Besides the engine and wiring hardness I had all new sensors put in and both catalytic converters were replaced with a new Y pipe and oxygen sensors. I think this a transmission valve body problem. I was looking at a replacement by a company that sells them for $330 that are upgraded. I need to send them a description of what it's doing. If a tromp on it hard going up a hill it acts like the computer doesn't know what to do with the transmission. That happened once. There is another part they are talking about on their website that has to be purchased as a GM item that has to be programmed to the vin number but I'm not sure that part is needed until I discuss it with the valve body company. Last night I just bought a heated/cooled cup holder for this EXT that came out of an SUV Platinum along with all the dash pieces to make the interior look better. At least in my eyes. :-)
Dielectric, sometimes referred to as tune-up grease, is a viscous " non-conductive" waterproof substance used to protect electrical connections ... Use a conductive contact grease at the contact points then one can apply a non-conductive die-electric grease over the point after its been installed.
My silverado would not start, nothing when you turned the key. I figured it was ground so I redid the ground system as you stated and it started. Didn't know where they all were. Thanks so much.
@@AnthonyJ350 thx! I have the 07 nbs and finding the electrical ground locations is like finding Bigfoot’s cave. I’ve found a few under the hood but there are none on the frame. None under pillar @ the windshield. That ground on the firewall was a royal pita to get off. The Haynes manual doesn’t show the electrical ground locations either. Any suggestions?
@@surgickalstrike The grounds behind the front driver's tire should be there on the body mount. You have to just look for them because I haven't seen a schematic tell me the exact location
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks again for your help. I applaud you for communicating with your viewers. I will look again. It would be cool if you could borrow different years of the gmc/Chevy trucks and show locations of electrical grounds on them. I’d let you borrow mine! Why not rack up another million views?
there are worse places in winter than the salt/sand mix the county uses in Mi. Found this out after moving to Montana and ran through a winter with magnesium chloride being used on the roads. Have to beat rotors off the hubs after one season
Anthony, I'm not as familiar with the underside of my truck as you are! I look at where we are before we go under the car would be very helpful. - Thanks.
I had to disconnect the ground on the driver side frame and sanded off all the old fram coating to bare metal then reconnect the ground wire and repainted and my problem was was fixed
Hey Guys, so I live in Calgary Alberta......With this said, our winters get frigidly cold -20C common......my 4wd service comes on/fuse blows/lights on selector switch goes out. Nothing works...found a write up - not sure if its from GM directly. But it states, if your 20amp ATC fuse keeps blowing, but Encoder @ T-case works......front diff actuator works. You're getting get grounds.....good voltage at connectors....( Bench test front actuator ) and it works.......and there is no code for TCCM ( Transfer Case Control Module ) ....it is the 1640 connection - they used 18 gauge wire from factory but during colder than normal ambient temps - it will spike in amps and blow the fuse....The easy fix is replace with 25amp fuse. OR replace the Orange wire - with 16Awg. DONT GO SPLURGE ON PARTS BEFORE YOU DO ALL YOUR CHECKS!!!!
I'm glad I found you! Okay so I own a 2500HD chevy and the electrical system is not correct. My FASS pump fluctuates in noise, when my blinker is on, the AC fluctuates, when I'm driving on cruise control, putting the window up stops it.. and there's more :( any ideas? Plz and thank you.
Check all the grounds and plugs. Drop the spare and Check, clean and dielectric grease all the plugs you can find along the frame and in the middle of it.
I have an 03 Chevy Tahoe with the 4.8, on the way home I noticed my voltage gage sitting at 12v and slowly starts going lower as I drive and noticed the service brake booster light come on even though my brakes work completely fine. When I got home, truck would start only with a jump. Now it dies while it’s running after a jump. My battery and alternator are healthy.
Been having problems with the speedometer gauge, it’s works most of the time but sometimes rarely it will not work at all I heard it might have to do something with one of the ground placements
@@carloschataing5030 I noticed my battery was a little weak, I changed it out and the problem has went away. It would mainly only have problems in the cold weather when it did have problems.
I think it aids with radio reception. I worked on a truck and repaired it and the AM reception got much better. I would just fix it, it's there for a reason.
My ground wire broke off the back of the engine block so I ran it to the firewall. Still had "reduced engine power" intermittently so I replaced the throttle body and viola it's finally fixed. 2003 Yukon
Glad to hear you figured out the fix. If you get the reduced power message I believe you should change oil as soon as possible because the engine runs rich you protect itself. The details are in the owner's manual so you should review that.
@@AnthonyJ350 perfect Thank you!! I noticed you mentioned a amperage sensor over by battery do you have a better picture as I can find mine 03 Chev Silverado 2500hd 6.0litre gas
I had crazy gauges and have gone through every ground to no avail. I finally came across a video and I pulled the cluster and spliced the ecm ground and went right to the dash frame. So far, my gauges have been fine.
@@AnthonyJ350 So far I have not driven the truck yet. I only ran it idle for a few minutes afterward and just checked the voltage gauge which indicated perfect at ~14 Volts. The two grounds located under the dr. side B pillar were very rusted, so I'm sure the effort was worth it for that reason alone. One reason I wanted to clean all the chassis grounds was due a lot of different intermittent, weird, random electronic activity like the heated seats activating and cycling on their own, cruise control dropping out, all of the 4WD indicator lights illuminating all at once, etc. like the truck is possessed, hahaa. Maybe cleaning the grounds will help.
you have to be carefull with grounds now a days. many newer vehicles use a amp sensor over the negative battery cable. if you add grounds, it with screw with your charging system... there are tsb's for this.
What’s up man I have a 2007 Chevy suburban I’ve added a k&n intake led headlights and a sound system (subwoofer ) 15” powers from 1200-2200 rms. The problem is that sometimes it works fine and all but when u turn on the bass or some times randomly it does is that it if u r driving it the a bunch of codes start to pop up the gage does not read anything like the rpms speed limit … the windows don’t work. What does work is the lights engine, seats to recline up and down and sunroof window. If u turn it off it will not want to start again and might have to take a while or a lot of cranks to start it. The other thing is that it know has a new battery and a new starter all fuses read good (inside and outside) and the alternator works good. What els could it be wrong?
That's a lot of power. Did you upgrade the grounds and the positive wire from the battery to the alternator? Also you'll want to use a high quality battery like a North Star or even install a secondary battery.
Love the video. I have a 2007 Cadillac Escalade that is giving me issues. Somedays its totally fine then sometimes I have abs and stabilitrak and service engine lights go crazy. When it does this the transmission goes nuts and gets stuck in 2nd gear. Everything on it looks similar to yours.
I cleared and painted all the ones underneath. What exactly am i looking for? Just corrosion? They all sure looked fine but I cleaned and painted anyway. I only had one on the frame under the driver seat. And the one by the radiator had two wires going to it
@@AnthonyJ350 yes did everything exactly as you said to in the video. On the bottom grounds havent done any others yet. I was expecting rusty or corroded connections they all looked good but I did them anyway
I’m just now finding this video. I’ve been having issues with my truck flashing service theft deterrent, service stabili track, gauges bouncing back, and forth etc….. I’ve replaced the entire ground wire from the battery itself and cleaned and sealed the 3 places it bolts to. I was wondering you ever saw that problem, and could point me in the right direction.
This is a nice video, the only improvement is the establishing shot at each location. When cutting away to new locations, you're already close in on them, so they can be hard to find without that "establishing shot" or something as dumb as an arrow while looking at the truck.
One time we could find the main Body harness for the dashboard main harness ground so I soldered a wire to the main harness ground and grounded it problem fixed
Thank you! Very similar, the frames are practically the same. Different in the rear because the rear suspension of the SUV is different than the pickup truck.
@@jorgeperezdeprado8941 Upgrade the grounds, and a high quality battery helps too. Upgrade frame to body ground straps, motor to frame and frame to battery.
To be fair, a lot of these ground placements are common on all pickups. I've found grounds on Japanese SUVS behind the front bumper shell. At least these you can get to, clean and grease.
Would a bad ground cause weird electrical issues such as wipers coming on by themselves, lights turning on when key isn't even in ignition and blinkers coming on?
For $50/ hr you can video call me and we'll go over all the grounding points on my truck on the hoist. Don't complain when someone gives information for free.
Hopefully you get this message within your video you were pointing out the ground wire into the right of your hand it appears the frame on that truck is cracked
Just to throw this out there, dielectric grease is actually an insulator and can not conduct electricity. It is pretty good at keeping them from corroding, but, putting it between a ground terminal and a physical ground is a good way to keep that ground from working.
Did you test and verify that theory? Because I did here: ruclips.net/video/YgJRKlE7pYg/видео.html Have you had connections fail due to dielectric grease consistently?
Couldnt you just route the negative battery cable through the sensor and to a distribution block and then run additional grounds to that block as well?
I have a 2015 Silverado ltz 6.2 and the dash goes nuts when the lights are on with four warning messages. When the lights off it's a normal dash. My brother said it's the grounding wire. But doesn't know which one. Would it be the last ground you fixed in the video of the BCM? With an extra wire?
I’m very new to automotive and my 99 Chevy Silverado recently went down, got stuck in the sand and switched to 4wd high no problem and now it can’t switch back to 2wd, I’ve replaced the actuator, control module, checked switches and still nothing, we suppose it could be an electrical issue… would you suspect a dirty ground to be causing such an issue like this? Thanks for your help :)
Do you think its a ground problem when i use the window switched the lights dim out and the cluster as well. Not only that when i turn the ac on the rpms drop and go up, also another thing is that when reversing and turning the wheel the truck sometimes turns off. Im beggining tk think its an electrical problem. Any idea or tips of what ir could be ?
Nice video man. Going to upgrade and do some ground maintenance on my 09 Silverado soon. What model Tesa tape do you use for under hood applications? Also can the relay box on drivers side be grounded additionally?
We used Exterior Tesa for under hood and chassis applications. I never redid any grounds at the distribution center under the hood. What you can do is clean it and put dielectric grease on the connectors of all the mini relays and all the plugs under the hood.
You should inform watchers that they SHOULD NOT put dielectric grease on the actual ground connection to metal, or on the bolt or threads. Dielectric grease will PREVENT a good flow of electrons, and thus you will get a poor ground. ONLY put the dielectric grease on the EXTERIOR of the new ground bolt and around the outside of the wire connection area to prevent corrosion. I learned this the hard way on another vehicle.
@@AnthonyJ350 Others agree with me on this. Give this a try: Remove your batter cables from the posts, then apply dielectric grease all over the posts and inside the cable terminals. Reconnect them, and try driving your vehicle for a week. You will soon get very poor electron flow, and your starter solenoid will be making the typical clac-clac-clac-clac noise when you try to start.......just isnt getting enough amps to allow the solenoid to energize the starter. Another example: apply the dielectric grease liberally all over a standard auto light bulb metal end, where the electrons flow to/from it. Apply to the bottom part and around the metal side of the bulb, and then insert bulb back into connection. You will find a voltage loss going to the bulb, the bulb will burn weaker, or might fail to come on.
@@crazeyspivey I do do that. Did you not watch the video I sent? There's no voltage loss. I literally work on electrical for vehicles every day. What product are you using?
After i cleaned my grounds i sprayed some of rustoleum rust reformer over them. Now i have to jump start the truck cause the battery gets drained in about a day. Its a 2006 gmc sierra 1500 denali.
My 2015 Sierra is having an issue that I think might be a ground problem? When I drive gravel and hit a bump or even just loose gravel that would cause the engine to work harder “service stabilitrack” and “service 4wd” pops up and the power to my stereo cuts out and the engine feels like it has no power as well as the gas gauge dropping down…
do you have to disconnect the negative from the battery before doing anything else? or is it safe to remove, clean, and reconnect grounds with the battery connected?
We have a 2016 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition with a big electrical issue. All electrical will shut off, hence the truck turns off, while driving (even at fast speeds). 3 shops later and no one can pinpoint the issue. It is not throwing the P or U codes they expect, only C codes. After this last time, battery terminal red was blazing hot, but they say the battery is checking out fine. Not sure if battery cables are an issue ($700). People are speculating about "ground plates" touching and grounding out the system. The truck stays off for about 15 minutes, then the electric system begins to work again and you can start the truck. Very scary situation in traffic. Any thoughts or other areas to check? Voltage has been checked, battery, etc. Thanks
@@AnthonyJ350 No sir, we haven't made the investment in that yet as we were still trying to get a more focused diagnosis. We felt like starting small with a new battery and possibly cables would be the smart place to start. Thoughts?
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There seems to be some confusion on word choice in the Title of Preventative and Preventive. They're both correct. www.merriam-webster.com/words-at-play/preventive-or-preventative
Use "preemptive" instead! ;)
@@holidayrap Aren't they all correct?
@@AnthonyJ350 Ya just being a smart alec.
Mines a older one or something
2000 gmc 3500 utility box bucket truck , 5.7 , the first one on that cab mount by the b pillar , mine don't have nothing there on this truck , all my newer ones do ?
@@MikeSmith-nu9wt Maybe, ya. Interesting. Might be a good collector truck one day.
Check fuel pump ground behind gas cap . Where bed and frame meet . This was my intermittent no crank/start problem fixed with sand paper . This area gets lots of moisture leads to rust and poor connection over time no a lot of info on this out there . Check it
Thanks for sharing this!
Did your fuel gauge work when you were having issues starting?
Its really a good thing to check that ground on the passenger rear of engine it causes alot of problems! That ground on the frame under the driver seat area should be cleaned up every few years. The Rubber covers on the side post battery terminals should be removed because these side post batteries like to leak acid and trap it in the rubber cover and corrode the terminals causing lots of problems. These are 3 of the most common problems. Also the fuse boxes like to corrode make sure u have the cover on
Thanks for sharing all your tips!
Yes! My battery is brand new but it's oxidized the terminals almost instantly
I check and don’t have that passenger side ground. Can’t see that thinner wire on the block nor where it’s supposed to split off the harness. Have about 40 dtcs related to harness like knock, camshaft and HO2S
Could I just clip that ground on the passenger back side and run it to a different part on the block? While leaving the o-ring and clipped wire on the the block still?
@@mazdaman601 did this ever fix it?
I should have done this on every GM car I owned. Grounds were always a problem. Great video - thanks.
Thanks for watching! It's a practice we do on every vehicle we own and we don't experience weird electrical issues because of it.
If you knew they had a problem with grounds why do you keep Buying the pieces a SHIT
Mark Shock if grounds are the only real issue then I’m gonna say that’s good to go. Especially considering that with fords for example have way more serious issues
@@markshock2254 every car has some electrical ground issues, unless they only operate under ideal conditions for electrical connection longevity. My issues on my Dodge Magnum began after driving on a 7 mile long dirt road deep into a National Forest. It was a remote recording I had to do as part of my job. Well the road is really fun with some “spirited” driving. Obviously I pushed it too hard because ever since then I’ve had a few intermittent stalling issues. I’m convinced all the “outside of the scope of its intended use” vibrations and shocks simply loosened several ground straps or the like in places I haven’t found yet. I have performed the clean and replace on every spot I can see, and curiously enough, there seems to beat least a temporary improvement every time. My point here is that the car still got driven on our Charleston, SC roads and definitely wasn’t babied at all. Yet I had not one serious electrical issue until over 160,000 miles. All of my accessories, window switches, door locks, HVAC, stereo, you name it, all works as it should. It’s not if you’ll have electrical issues, more like when, unless you drive on a pool table with desert dry air, use the vehicle regularly, and are the luckiest guy here. Every make and model suffers from reality. Mercedes, Ford, Subaru, Volvo, Chrysler, Volkswagen, Renault,you name it. What vehicle has given you the experience to declare other vehicles POS? I’m serious though. Because I will only buy that vehicle next.
@@markshock2254 The ONLY good fords are Chevy powered. In 35 years of building custom hotrods and alcohol drag boats I have yet to be contracted to build a Ford powered land / water transportation or race vehicle.
I really like the way each ground is sectioned and then you label the area on the video. seriously ease to follow. thank you.
Glad you found this video helpful 🙂
Great video! In case it helps someone-I learned to use anti seize to prevent corrosion on bolted electrical connectors on my boat. It doesn't easily wash out and it prevents corrosion of the connection.
Thanks for sharing!
Good idea I never thought about. It's not easy to remove off of your fingers don't wear gloves
Careful! Make sure you check the conductivity of the type of anti-seize you will be applying!
Would the copper work good?@@todddann3134
Good suggestions for upgrading grounds ...GM vehicles aren’t the only ones with grounding issues. Anything that you run off-road can be subjected to ground damage. Good Job! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you! Totally agree that virtually every vehicle can benefit from a simple ground upgrade, even as preventative maintenance.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe!
My mustang had crappy grounds. One of the first thing i do to any vehicle i get over 5years old is check/upgrade the grounds.
Yeah, but it seems to be TOO COMMON of a problem with GM made vehicles, especially trucks.
Found the PCM ground was barely holding on. Fix and the truck started right up. Thanks. Didn't even know it was there. It's hidden more on the Chevy Avalanche.
Nice work!
Having the same problem how where exactly is the pcm ground?
@@ccheeks74 Back of the engine block, under the intake manifold
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks
@AnthonyJ350 is this the one on the driver side firewall going to driverside head??
I always kinda wondered if I cleaned to bare metal shouldn't it rust. I guess that why you check the grounds from time to time 😲 Great video, helped my 94, gauges, cruise,wipers lol even brake lights! Crazy trucks
Glad it helped you! Hope you put some dielectric grease down to help preserve those connections.
I like having a popular vehicle it helps so much when there are people on RUclips such as yourself helping to make my investment even better
It does make a difference. We have a bunch of videos for these trucks if you want to check it out.
@@AnthonyJ350 i 1994 z71 short bed 4x4 c1500 5.7 L i paid a guy to put a break light switch in my truck well he didnt know what he was doing a he cut wires from the back of fuse box to ignition switch turn signal switch he cut all kinds of wires now im stuck and dont have a clue how to figure what wires go where witch color wires are missing in the plugs etc. Would you have a suggestion how i might go about fixing this mess im no electrician i dont like wiring but i cant afford to pay a shop to do it
@@douglykins684 You would have to drop the fuse panel out, match the wires and solder + shrink tube all the cut wires.
Hey Anthony appreciate the advice but there is s lot more wire that are cut up under the dash ignition switch wires a couple sre messing dont kbow what color the wires are that are missing same with break light switch and the wires that come out from behind the balk head box thats down by the floor board by the firewall on drivers side
Would love to check out your videos
This is a great video of an often overlooked GMT-800 issue. Did the wirebrush and undercoat procedure on the grounds @ the cab mount so many times I've lost count.
Thank you!
So I’m also trying to sort out some odd electrical issues, but the engine has never been affected. I can’t think of anything else that HASN’T been affected. Since you dine the same procedure several times, I’m assuming you were convinced you knew the culprit after the second time you did it. By the third time, what was your thinking as far as being obviously very, very convinced you were on the right path to fixing it? I have a fair bit of knowledge about basic signal and current flow, as I’m a live sound engineer, and these things can greatly affect my job performance. Each time did you see where you could make an improvement over the previous attempt? You know how when you are trying to fix something, and you THINK you knew what was and thought you had fixed it, but then the symptom persists, you are distraught over the time spent not fixing the problem. But often problems highlight solutions. For example, even though it would appear that all of these ground straps seem to be redundant , they are not, and the impedance and current on some of them are dependent on at least one current sensor in the engine bay. “Improving” current flow post current sensor can send some systems into glitch mode. I honestly was just asking if you were finally successful. Were you? Anyone who is repeating a repair like that has got to have a good and tangible understanding how the system works. And that’s my point. Just the fact that you’re doing this so many times shows something else is wrong as well. What were your results ?
@@AnthonyJ350 put
M l
Great video, i can see how to some people asking for better angles, or for you to zoom out because they are having trouble finding the grounds is their only comment. Everybody should realize that even though it is GM some of these grounds wont be in the same exact location as this truck, due to the year make n model. This video does give you a very good starting point to look and is very helpful in saving you money. As for the ones pointing out what looks to be cracked on this truck in their comments. This video is about ground issues and maintenance. Thank you for posting the video, I will be checking all the grounds mentioned in this video on my 2010 Escalade awd 6.2L Luxury trim.
Thanks for watching!
2006 Chevy Silverado
I added the second battery to my 2012. Have a stereo system with Rockford Fosgate power. Put the big the, twice. One for each battery off each side of the engine bay. I did not... NOT.. run any of my 0/1 big 3 cable through the factory amp clamp. I kept the factory ground strap there. My 8 farad capacitor has the active voltage reading display on it and it charges at 15.1 volts. I set my truck up a year ago, live in PA (by lake Erie winter weather belt). It is perfectly fine as is. Good quality (I run Sky High Car Audio and Rockford Fosgate wire) oversized O does not fit in the stock amp clamp, but good quality wire, done right, with the factory ground strap through the clamp has proven to work perfectly fine in my truck. Just food for thought for you! Thank you for a very good video!! Much appreciated and I will be under my truck checking those other grounds as soon as the weather breaks here. Thank you 👍👍
Thanks for sharing your experience about the regulated voltage clamp. Would like to hear more updates in the future.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I’ve had issues with my 07 Avalanche, it wouldn’t shut off when the key was turned off, and it was draining the battery. It’s not the same as the GMT800, but you definitely pointed me in the right direction to finding a corroded ground coming straight from the battery. Amazing video!!!
Glad to hear the video was able to help you!
a blown voltage regulator can also cause drain back when key is off
do you have a better source to resolve your issue i have an 07 avalanche and am having the same problems
@@4g63a1 so repairing the ground fixed a lot of my issues, but I still had battery drain. We ended up replacing the fuse box and have had no issues since.
@@anandsihra I have an 07 silverado with 5.3. Having same issues for months including taking the key out and it stays running. Did the ground fix that?
Love your video please make another updated one soon if you still have the truck I want to go over every ground and see the location.
Yup, I still have the truck
Yes, in most cases the electrical components will utilize a ground running from another source, causing an extreme load on that ground wire. You can tell by the discoloration of the ground wires carrying too much load. So find the faulty ground source and replace those burnt wires....burnt wires have more resistance than normal...police cars have extra grounds on the exhaust system to calm the negative eruptions during the combustion processes of ionization and yes I'm a smart ass
Thanks for sharing!
Your a champion. My chev runs occasionally, dosnt shift ect. Defiantly going though all the grounds you mentioned 🤙
Let us know if doing this helped. The more people that give feedback helps others.
Will do, its been an issue for a while now, and as im in Australia, no one knows anything about them 🤣 its been sitting at my mechanics yard for 6 months, i took it back to my shop last week. (Fyi its an 03 silverado with the 5.3 and its 4x4). Im most interested in the earth strap you outlined behind the engine on the firewall. The errors im getting are cambus voltage too low, so im positive after watching your vid its earth related 😉
@@AnthonyJ350replacing the ground that you outlined behind the engine worked. I ran mine the same way you did, similar wire ect. I checked a before and after with the meter, got .4 of an ohm before, so defiantly had a problem there. (After .1 or so).
This worked for a phantom problem with excessive low idle, not shifting / delayed shifts, burning smell during shift, cylinder misfire codes ect. My guess is if you drive like this it will damage the transmission, it seems to effect the solenoids shift time. Thanks again for a great video.
@@chenzitong1 Thank you so much for giving feedback regarding this video. I'm really happy to hear it helped solve a bunch of issues on the truck. Don't forget to subscribe :)
Yep I'd say the wire behind the motor on my truck will probably be my fix for it thanks guys I'm ganna try an see if I can get my truck fixed an hopefuly it works out it wood run rely good clear the engine lite off thin like wen its hot it will lose power an not shift out sometimes not even want to go over 30mph I cud stop an Trun the truck off an it woodent fix it till the next day wen it wood be colder on it but this wormer wether has rely got it messing it up everything that can have a code for it it gets them all popping up now
Thank God I just so happened to come across your video. Now I got to find your video about the current sensor and how to run the wire through it because that is exactly what I have suspected my problem has been with my 2007 Yukon I put a aftermarket stereo and subs in it and have been having charging issues with it since and major major voltage drop
I have this video that might help you ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
Just found this after watch tons of videos. Yours by far was the best to explain it! I have a 2012 Chevy Express 2500 and started having issues. Went and looked at the ground strap and mine is worse than that one!! It will be changed today!!! Hoping it fixes my issues.
Please let us know the results after! All these comments help other out 🙂
@@AnthonyJ350 problem SOLVED!!!! Heads up for anyone that the bolt to PS pump and also to the motor mount is 15mm. You’ll need an open box end wrench and a 15mm socket (goes quicker). Van fired right up!!!
@@thegenxproject5941 So which ground was it? The one at the motor or at the frame behind the tire?
@@AnthonyJ350 it was the ground strap that’s attached to the battery ground cable (factory). It was rotten off and I gave it a little tug and it fell off. It was attached to the block (with battery wire crimped together) and then bonded to the frame. I got another strap (not the best) and grounded it to the power steering pump bolt and then to the motor mount bolt attached to the frame, turned the key and it fired right up.
@@thegenxproject5941 Right on, good job!
I have 2001 Silverado with led taillights that was blinking everywhere and I couldn’t figure out the problem. Until I changed out the taillights to original ones, that I saw that the bulbs were dim. My fix was the ground under the driver side pillar. Thanks a lot.
Glad the video helped you 🙂
My back 1 burnt in half and it still get real hot, but now a mechanic seen the front 1 was loose to engine and it's no crank, no start . Check gauges and battery lights are on and before I broke down the check engine light came on and plugged RS2 SCANNER(OXYGEN SENSOR AND CATALACK CONVERTER. Just subscribed too. Thank for help 👨
My gauges go out of control too. Way past full tank and battery checked 12.6 and when ignition on goes to 9 or below. Help me please Im going to truck now.
Seems someone is jealous of what I have and what I can do because I'm a landlord and used to be an IRONWORKER/ CERTIFIED WELDER. Like sabotage
I would replace the wire and put a little dielectric grease where the connection meets metal to avoid corrosion later on. Hope you get it up and running soon!
Pretty sure my next-door neighbor or someone like evil. I LISTEN TO DENNIS AND ARNOLD MURRAY WITH THE SHEPHERD'S CHAPEL AND THEY PREACH FROM THE OLD KJV BIBLE AND CAN PROVIDE EVERYTHING THEY SAY IS VERSE BY VERSE AND CHAPTER BY CHAPTER. IT'S REALLY CHANGED MY LIFE. They also bring geek and Hebrew and manuscripts to English!
Long ago, Mercedes had issues with o2 sensors having issues. Well, the fix was to add a ground from the o2 sensor body to the frame. Rust, etc at the exhaust connections was not giving good ground pathway. These were the first type sensors without their own int ground in case that confuses you young ones.
But the PCM gets its ground from the vehicle and isn't it better to have a vehicle with less potential ground loops? Can you also explain why some Toyotas like an FJ Cruiser and 90's Hondas ground the valve cover?
Grounding the casings must help at least for the charging system since the ground for the alternator is the back of the casing.
I never heard the model T had catalytic convertors, them one wire o2 sensors sure are old school!! lol
Love the video. Been having a issue where i hit bumps and the truck shuts off for a brief moment. Hopefully this helps!
Hope the video helps you too! Keep us updated!
Did you get that issue fixed?
I've been having issues with my Chevy. I think you just helped me out. I'll try that in the morning.
Let us know if any of this worked for you.
It helped me fix many issues, from dash lights being out to 4x4 switch being out. On these chevys def check grounds and fuses before buying ANY parts.
I have a 2006 gmc sierra 2500, when I press the brakes both rear blinkers turn on. I’ve narrowed it down to a bad ground but I’m trying to find the spot the rear light circuit grounds. Front lights work great. You have great videos that have helped a lot! Thank you for any input!
You can solder wires onto the ground wire of each taillight and nut and bolt it to the frame. Spray with Fluid Film on the grounding point of the frame afterwards.
@@AnthonyJ350worked great! Just don’t have the rear brake lights but solved my blinker problem! Thank you!
@@michaeljoyce7847 This might help with the brakes ruclips.net/video/_Zw9j3o0RRw/видео.htmlsi=dRDLETZH7ynP68Pf
I always feel free to add my own grounds, in fact, when I run it right to the NEG terminal I call it a dedicated neutral
Nice, sounds like you come from an AC voltage background. There's no neutral in a DC system.
You also have to make sure if you're adding grounds to the battery it passes through the sensor for the regulated voltage control system
ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
Hey Anthony
Thank you for your help man i did everything you showed on this video
You are a great teacher
thanks
So glad the video helped you!
Great video
Recently got an 02 Suburban and am having starting problems. Turn the key to start and it just clicks once but won't turn over. Battery and alternator are good.
Do you think Cleaning and protecting all the grounds will solve the issue before I replace the starter?
I would definitely clean and upgrade the grounds. But sounds like the starter solenoid isn't happy.
I know this is a late comment but thought I’d ask anyways, I have a 02 GMC sierra with the 8.1 and I purchased aftermarket LED tail lights to match my front aftermarket’s, they worked for a bit then couple months later they stopped working. During the day they work great. When my headlights are on is when it has issues. when I apply breaks and turn signals they don’t work. But when I just do one or the other they work. Just not both together like they should. I’ve tested many things and replaced a lot of things, rear light harness, new resistor to help with aftermarket LED, checked all my fuses and relays, rear taillight control panel, the tail lights themselves for another led taillight, the multi signal turn switch, and new turn signal relays. I’m completely stumped, I cleaned the ground points today on the drivers side frame and they seemed to be flicking like they want to work but then just quit. Weird part is the OEM tailights with regular bulbs work fine as they should. I’m guessing it’s bad wires? Or another ground I’m not seeing? If you have any ideas please let me know!
This video might help you ruclips.net/video/Y1YqTBg6NzI/видео.html
great video..i found 2 more grounds on my 01 sierra right below the gas tank fill on the frame rail..one goes to the abs module and one goes to the back of the gas tank fill cap i guess for static discharge.
Thanks for sharing this!
I remember a ground broke off a person's truck I know and occasionally the ABS comes on like Broken Ground was not replaced yet I'm thinking now maybe that's abs it is towards the back
@@AnthonyJ350 hey do you think it's broken around with the 2001 Chevy truck seems like it wants to stall one put in reverse definitely idles down occasionally ABS or brake light comes on did have a broken ground that wasn't replaced yet not sure what these grounds are called to buy Direct Fit replacements
Loved the video. Im in the process of cleaning all the ground connections you listed in the video. I see that the small wire on the back of my engine block is covered in dry oil/dirt. Im going to move it to a different location, hopefully it helps. What gauge wire did you use for the small wire? Thanks again for the video
I used 16 gauge. Thanks for watching! Let us know how it worked for you.
@@AnthonyJ350 after cleaning all the grounds and moving the location of the ecm ground my yukon still had no power. I removed the plastic battery terminal covers and the issue has not happened again. I believe this fix is needed because the ground wires were very dirty. I would also add removing the plastic terminal covers to ensure there is a good connection with the battery.
@@f_beezy9285 Thanks for sharing!
Mines don't have a wire on back engine block ,so what the plan after that?
Excellent video and knowledge on possible issues with no start. I have my sister's 2010 suburban ltz with the 5.3 vortec she stopped driving for a month and it won't start, just turns over. In the fuse box it was no fuel pump relay or fuse in the slots. I added both, installed new fuel pump, new preprogrammed FSCM. I jumped the harness to the module and the fuel pump runs strong. I have no lights on the dash. Maybe grounds, ecm, pcm, etc.
I had another viewer recently. Similar symptoms, the BCM was toast. How did you reprogram?
Can your scan tool see the BCM?
Great job on the video, I completed mines a few months ago. Super thoroughly explained. 👍🏼👍🏼
Glad the video helped you!
@@AnthonyJ350 I share it when others needs the help. 👌🏼👌🏼
@@JDV10M5 Thank you for doing that!
Thanks for the video. What model truck is in this video? My 01 gmc sierra 1500 doesn't have those ground wires under the a- pillar.
You're welcome and thanks for watching! It's a 2005 half ton shown in the video. 2003 wiring changed and 2005 it changed even more for the GMT-800.
You got yourself a new subscriber you have no idea how this video helped me
Glad to hear it helped, what was going on?
@@AnthonyJ350 so I am building an rcsb it’s an 01 but fully coverted to an 07 classic but it was all apart when I got it and I connected everything and it wouldn’t crank stumbled upon your video wich was a life saver and medicine for this headache thank you 💯
@@Pedritoe That's so awesome to hear!
Thank you very much. Now I know what caused my problem on a Escalade that I recently bought. I picked it up on the east coast and was on my way back to Chicago with it, it rain perfect for 500 miles or so and then all of a sudden I had every idiot light come on including StabiliTrak that I couldn't get rid of with the button on the dash. Once that light came on the engine started running very rough and I headed for the closest exit. It never made it down the ramp, the engine quit. That caused a $700 tow bill to the rest of the way home. It's in the shop now and so far there are two bent rods and issues with the other bank that isn't torn down yet. Looks like the engine will have to be replaced. The grounds seem to be the major cause of all this. These modern vehicles all have issues with bad grounds over time I'm told. I'm use to working on the older vehicles that never had issues like this. I wish I had seen this video before I started driving home.
After you update the grounds and you get the new engine in, let us know if all the lights turned off.
Im not sure if grounds would cause engine issues like that, what year is the Escalade? Was there enough oil in it?
The modern technology is supposed to prevent, not cause, bent rods and the like. Your computer detected something very wrong and at least one of the manifestations was the stability control light staying on. It thought that either the four wheels weren’t turning the same speeds(with allotments for curves and bumps and the like), like a wheel speed sensor, or maybe a pitch, yaw, or roll sensor was getting an intermittent connection, or even the front axle versus the rear. But the engine started running rough and ultimately bent some rods? Maybe cam position sensor went haywire? That would still shut the engine down before it ate itself. The only ways to bend a rod in a modern V8 that are likely in everyday driving would be maybe hydro-lock from ingesting water through the intake, which is crazy yet happens more than it should. People give too much throttle while driving through deep water and a lot of air intakes point downward, like a vacuum cleaner. Under higher rpm or throttle demand there is a fair bit of vacuum present in the intake tract. Low engine speeds would not allow water past the filter, much less the throttle body. But there isn’t enough time for the computer to react when the gas pedal is pressed hard and heavy demand for air intake occurs but instead there is water, in spray for, busting through the filter, and zipping past the mostly open throttle blade and even past the valves. At that point, depending on the compression ratio of the engine it takes very, very little water in the chamber during the compression cycle to prevent the piston and rod from being able to compress what is supposed to be a gas, not a liquid with, let’s say poor compression characteristics. Momentum becomes the next enemy for the next cylinder. Do you have nitrous injection on your Escalade? Didn’t think so. How about a supercharger? Extreme and instant back pressure in the exhaust system? Maybe no oil and spun a bearing, then a rod cap, then too much clearance allowed the rod to hit the cylinder wall near the bottom and bent it that way. Sounds like it was low on oil, maybe very quickly, maybe an oil cooler line broke and spewed hot oil onto a motion or speed sensor, the lifters lost pressure, making engine run like crap, and the cam sensor wouldn’t detect that to shut it down? And the oil sensors had t yet recognized there was in issue in their respective locations? A modern engine bending a rod or two is really a strange scenario unless there are several unknown circumstances. Please let us know what you found.
@@andrewhigdon8346 Thank you for the reply, Andrew. When I picked the truck up at the dealership it had fresh oil in it and it was full. It was the first thing I checked before I bought it. I did know that the engine didn't sound good and I asked the dealer if the truck would make it back to Chicago and he said he wouldn't bet on it and that's why it went for such a low price that I got it for. The body is cherry, that's the reason I bought it. There isn't a bit of rust under the truck on any panel or frame member. That part of the truck was well cared for. What was not well cared for was the drive train. After the rods were bent and it wouldn't start I had to call a tow truck to bring it straight to the mechanic that my son recommended. He attempted to get the engine running but it did the same thing for him that it did for me on the side of the road. It would race the engine and then stop running but it sounded awful. All the idiot lights came on at the same time so I think the damage was caused from an electrical problem. When the mechanic took the engine apart he called me to come in and take a look at what he had found. The first thing I noticed was bare wires all over the top of the motor and down the sides, all the conduit was off of them. Then he showed me the rockers that had white paint marks to identify the cylinder they came off of we presumed so someone had already been inside that motor. With the VVT system in that motor part of the damage might have been caused by low oil pressure but he checked the oil level and it was still at the top mark and clean. As soon as I saw the wiring I figured I needed a new harness right off the bat and all new sensors but when he took the heads off there was pieces of metal every where. Then he took the oil pan off and it was full of metal chips. He said he wouldn't think of trying to repair that motor and advised me to get another one and don't get a used one. I elected to go with a Jasper engine since the mechanic recommended it. This week he put in a new front differential because it was making noise and when he took it apart it was completely shot. Now I'm having a problem filling the gas tank even though he changed the canister. I guess that means the lines are clogged? This truck has also had a transmission problem from a standing stop to first gear. This jump happened six times since I've put on a little over 1,000 miles on the truck. I'm sure who ever had this truck and who ever worked on it didn't change the fluids like they should have. When I'm finished with this truck it will be better than new. :-)
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, all the lights in the dash are off and it runs good except six different times it hesitated and jumped from a stop to moving again. Besides the engine and wiring hardness I had all new sensors put in and both catalytic converters were replaced with a new Y pipe and oxygen sensors. I think this a transmission valve body problem. I was looking at a replacement by a company that sells them for $330 that are upgraded. I need to send them a description of what it's doing. If a tromp on it hard going up a hill it acts like the computer doesn't know what to do with the transmission. That happened once. There is another part they are talking about on their website that has to be purchased as a GM item that has to be programmed to the vin number but I'm not sure that part is needed until I discuss it with the valve body company. Last night I just bought a heated/cooled cup holder for this EXT that came out of an SUV Platinum along with all the dash pieces to make the interior look better. At least in my eyes. :-)
Dielectric, sometimes referred to as tune-up grease, is a viscous " non-conductive" waterproof substance used to protect electrical connections ...
Use a conductive contact grease at the contact points then one can apply a non-conductive die-electric grease over the point after its been installed.
Thanks for the comment!
Yes thank you...... many people really don't have a clue about dielectric!!
Wow just youtubed this...I was using it all wrong! Thanks for the comment.
No-oxide
My silverado would not start, nothing when you turned the key. I figured it was ground so I redid the ground system as you stated and it started. Didn't know where they all were. Thanks so much.
Does it try to crank?
@@AnthonyJ350 my 5.3 cranks but won’t turn over
@@ercysuazo726 Check the relays under the hood. Might be the fuel amp relay or ignition
@@AnthonyJ350 it only starts if I put starting fluid into the throttle body
@@ercysuazo726 Is your fuel pump priming? Check the fuse and relay
Pan out for a wider shot so we can see what area of truck you are referring to.
Otherwise, good info.
Thanks for the feedback!
What year is the truck your showing in the video?
2005
@@AnthonyJ350 thx! I have the 07 nbs and finding the electrical ground locations is like finding Bigfoot’s cave. I’ve found a few under the hood but there are none on the frame. None under pillar @ the windshield. That ground on the firewall was a royal pita to get off.
The Haynes manual doesn’t show the electrical ground locations either. Any suggestions?
@@surgickalstrike The grounds behind the front driver's tire should be there on the body mount. You have to just look for them because I haven't seen a schematic tell me the exact location
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks again for your help. I applaud you for communicating with your viewers. I will look again.
It would be cool if you could borrow different years of the gmc/Chevy trucks and show locations of electrical grounds on them. I’d let you borrow mine! Why not rack up another million views?
@@surgickalstrike That's a great idea! I'll have to try to do that when I work on different generation chassis of trucks.
Got a 2001 Silverado rusted all to hell. Never touched the grounds, never had a problem in Michigan salt
I feel you on the Michigan rust. I wish I was fortunate enough to not have had ground issues though.
Use Fluid Film on the undercarriage to keep rust at bay.
there are worse places in winter than the salt/sand mix the county uses in Mi. Found this out after moving to Montana and ran through a winter with magnesium chloride being used on the roads. Have to beat rotors off the hubs after one season
Anthony, I'm not as familiar with the underside of my truck as you are! I look at where we are before we go under the car would be very helpful. - Thanks.
I do believe I tell the location of each ground and these are common automotive terms.
I had to disconnect the ground on the driver side frame and sanded off all the old fram coating to bare metal then reconnect the ground wire and repainted and my problem was was fixed
Alde Sselle what problem were you having ?
yes Alde Sselle. What problem did it fix?
Don’t ya hate when people solve their problems, and then share it without explaining what the problem was. 🤬
Nice, good work!
Hey Guys, so I live in Calgary Alberta......With this said, our winters get frigidly cold -20C common......my 4wd service comes on/fuse blows/lights on selector switch goes out. Nothing works...found a write up - not sure if its from GM directly. But it states, if your 20amp ATC fuse keeps blowing, but Encoder @ T-case works......front diff actuator works. You're getting get grounds.....good voltage at connectors....( Bench test front actuator ) and it works.......and there is no code for TCCM ( Transfer Case Control Module ) ....it is the 1640 connection - they used 18 gauge wire from factory but during colder than normal ambient temps - it will spike in amps and blow the fuse....The easy fix is replace with 25amp fuse. OR replace the Orange wire - with 16Awg. DONT GO SPLURGE ON PARTS BEFORE YOU DO ALL YOUR CHECKS!!!!
I would upgrade the wiring. Changing the fuse to a higher amperage rating will stress the factory wire even more in cold conditions.
do you unhook the batterie/s before you detach all the ground wire?
Doesn't hurt to
Good job bro I have the cadilac Escalade 07- v8. And I cleaned all the grounds knew exactly where they are but there’s 4 more spots the main grounds
Thanks for sharing!
@@AnthonyJ350 i have a 2004 chevy silverado and my radio keeps turning off and on. Any ideas what it can be?
@@559caliii Is it the original?
@@AnthonyJ350 no
Dude, you just saved my truck ! Thank you so much 😊
That's awesome! What did the video help you fix?
Stay tuned, we're doing a bunch of videos on the Silverado coming up!
A missing ground solved all of my problems !
@@maliciousmetaldragon3920 Was it the one behind the intake manifold on the engine block?
AnthonyJ350 yes the one behind the intake and I added a few extra grounds
@@maliciousmetaldragon3920 Thanks for the confirmation, helps a lot of other people.
Greetings,
What year is this truck in this video? And would I check the EXACT same areas on a 2003 Silverado 1500 SS?
The truck in the video is a 2005 extended cab Silverado.
@@AnthonyJ350 Outstanding Thanks!
This was incredibly helpful thanks
Glad to hear it helped!
@@AnthonyJ350 yes. It did. I've been trying to find these exact damn ground locations for a year lol
@@tommytheT same reason you keep driving that damnd POS Yugo.
@@randygreen8916 Yugo I drive a Silverado plowing rig. Sit on a bottle
I'm glad I found you! Okay so I own a 2500HD chevy and the electrical system is not correct. My FASS pump fluctuates in noise, when my blinker is on, the AC fluctuates, when I'm driving on cruise control, putting the window up stops it.. and there's more :( any ideas? Plz and thank you.
Check all the grounds and plugs. Drop the spare and Check, clean and dielectric grease all the plugs you can find along the frame and in the middle of it.
How about the cracked frame does that help bad grounds?
What are you talking about?
Never seen a frame that cracked before. Suppose he doesn't even see it?
@@ronevrerett5670 It's not a cracked frame. It's paint chipping away or undercoating
Nope it wouldn't. That's just cracking in the undercoating.
I have an 03 Chevy Tahoe with the 4.8, on the way home I noticed my voltage gage sitting at 12v and slowly starts going lower as I drive and noticed the service brake booster light come on even though my brakes work completely fine. When I got home, truck would start only with a jump. Now it dies while it’s running after a jump. My battery and alternator are healthy.
The current sensor might be faulty.
You can never have enough ground.
Completely agree!
Been having problems with the speedometer gauge, it’s works most of the time but sometimes rarely it will not work at all I heard it might have to do something with one of the ground placements
Could also be the stepper motor of the gauge.
Did you solve it?
@@carloschataing5030 I noticed my battery was a little weak, I changed it out and the problem has went away. It would mainly only have problems in the cold weather when it did have problems.
excellent and informative video!
Glad you liked it!
I am new to this discovery with grounding issues or sensitivity on the GMC.
Hope this video helps
Is the ground going from the engine bay body to the hood on the drivers side super important? Mine was broken when i got the truck 3 years ago.
I think it aids with radio reception. I worked on a truck and repaired it and the AM reception got much better. I would just fix it, it's there for a reason.
Mines been broken for years. Only thing that doesn’t work with the hood to firewall ground wire broken is the underhood light which I don’t use.
My ground wire broke off the back of the engine block so I ran it to the firewall. Still had "reduced engine power" intermittently so I replaced the throttle body and viola it's finally fixed. 2003 Yukon
Glad to hear you figured out the fix. If you get the reduced power message I believe you should change oil as soon as possible because the engine runs rich you protect itself. The details are in the owner's manual so you should review that.
Hey Anthony great video I'm not sure if this will work on mine but gonna try thanks
Hey Anthony it was the one on the front of the mother it's the ground for the starter heater and a few other things thanks again for the help
Thanks for letting us know!
Good idea it's said that 80% of all electrical issues are ground related.
Most likely
Does it matter the gauge wire? I have big battery cable lines to ground with... They will never break
Thicker is always better when it comes to grounds. It'll be more durable and flow more amperage.
@@AnthonyJ350 perfect Thank you!! I noticed you mentioned a amperage sensor over by battery do you have a better picture as I can find mine 03 Chev Silverado 2500hd 6.0litre gas
@@berryhappy4883 Yes, I believe for your year truck it won't have it, I have a video on it though ruclips.net/video/8NRajpYXGb4/видео.html
The acid finds its way in there replaced cables that we cut in half, nothing but white powder no wonder the car wouldn't start!
Thanks, I’ve got instrument cluster issues on a 01 Silverado. I’ll give this a try.
Let us know. The cluster stepper motors might be worn out.
I had crazy gauges and have gone through every ground to no avail. I finally came across a video and I pulled the cluster and spliced the ecm ground and went right to the dash frame. So far, my gauges have been fine.
Any luck? 04 silverado cluster/radio issue. $1000 in so far, about to give up lol new bcm, repaired cluster, still dead after 1 or 2 nights
Thanks for this video! I was able to locate and clean up all of the chassis ground connections on my '04 Yukon.
Nice! Did you notice a difference with anything afterwards?
@@AnthonyJ350 So far I have not driven the truck yet. I only ran it idle for a few minutes afterward and just checked the voltage gauge which indicated perfect at ~14 Volts. The two grounds located under the dr. side B pillar were very rusted, so I'm sure the effort was worth it for that reason alone. One reason I wanted to clean all the chassis grounds was due a lot of different intermittent, weird, random electronic activity like the heated seats activating and cycling on their own, cruise control dropping out, all of the 4WD indicator lights illuminating all at once, etc. like the truck is possessed, hahaa. Maybe cleaning the grounds will help.
@@CtotheDitti Did you put some dielectric grease in between the connections as well.
@@AnthonyJ350 Absolutely, yes. And I smeared more all around the exteriors of each connection too.
you have to be carefull with grounds now a days. many newer vehicles use a amp sensor over the negative battery cable. if you add grounds, it with screw with your charging system... there are tsb's for this.
For sure, I have a video dedicated to regulated voltage control systems ruclips.net/video/8NRajpYXGb4/видео.html
Thank you for posting
Thanks for watching!
What’s up man I have a 2007 Chevy suburban I’ve added a k&n intake led headlights and a sound system (subwoofer ) 15” powers from 1200-2200 rms. The problem is that sometimes it works fine and all but when u turn on the bass or some times randomly it does is that it if u r driving it the a bunch of codes start to pop up the gage does not read anything like the rpms speed limit … the windows don’t work. What does work is the lights engine, seats to recline up and down and sunroof window. If u turn it off it will not want to start again and might have to take a while or a lot of cranks to start it. The other thing is that it know has a new battery and a new starter all fuses read good (inside and outside) and the alternator works good. What els could it be wrong?
That's a lot of power. Did you upgrade the grounds and the positive wire from the battery to the alternator? Also you'll want to use a high quality battery like a North Star or even install a secondary battery.
Do you disconnect the negative battery when replacing grounds?
No I just add them on
Love the video. I have a 2007 Cadillac Escalade that is giving me issues. Somedays its totally fine then sometimes I have abs and stabilitrak and service engine lights go crazy. When it does this the transmission goes nuts and gets stuck in 2nd gear. Everything on it looks similar to yours.
Let us know how it goes after you clean the grounds and maybe upgrade a few.
I cleared and painted all the ones underneath. What exactly am i looking for? Just corrosion? They all sure looked fine but I cleaned and painted anyway. I only had one on the frame under the driver seat. And the one by the radiator had two wires going to it
@@hoobsgarage Did you apply dielectric grease?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes did everything exactly as you said to in the video. On the bottom grounds havent done any others yet. I was expecting rusty or corroded connections they all looked good but I did them anyway
@@hoobsgarage Always good to check
Nice help thanks 🙏
Glad to hear it helped!
I’m just now finding this video. I’ve been having issues with my truck flashing service theft deterrent, service stabili track, gauges bouncing back, and forth etc….. I’ve replaced the entire ground wire from the battery itself and cleaned and sealed the 3 places it bolts to. I was wondering you ever saw that problem, and could point me in the right direction.
Did you check the ground at the back of the engine block under the intake manifold?
Che Che Che oh oh oh, thank you for sharing your added ground and prevent future matienance...
Appreciate your time and effort nice job
Glad the video helped!
Great video, would you happen to know which if any of these deal with turn signals? Recently, my signals all stopped working.
This video may help ruclips.net/video/gL9J3TP24UM/видео.html
That's your multi-switch in your steering column
This is a nice video, the only improvement is the establishing shot at each location. When cutting away to new locations, you're already close in on them, so they can be hard to find without that "establishing shot" or something as dumb as an arrow while looking at the truck.
Thanks for the feedback!
Very informative
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Which one would deal with the starter or aid in starting a 06 chevy silverado 5.3 b8 1500 cateyw
You'll want to watch this video ruclips.net/video/W5OHrYJqtEQ/видео.htmlsi=E9P5wkULBhL5qunh
One time we could find the main Body harness for the dashboard main harness ground so I soldered a wire to the main harness ground and grounded it problem fixed
Nice, good job!
Great video first off,😊 is this the same on a 2001 gmc yukon 5.3?
Thank you! Very similar, the frames are practically the same. Different in the rear because the rear suspension of the SUV is different than the pickup truck.
Sweet I'm having problems right now with. The lights daming when I roll down the windows and stuff like that gonna change all the ground straps?
Diming not damming
@@jorgeperezdeprado8941 Upgrade the grounds, and a high quality battery helps too. Upgrade frame to body ground straps, motor to frame and frame to battery.
Will do.👍
Clean nice work👍
Thank you!
Makes a very happy Truck. Good Job👍
Thanks so much for driving!
how about a wider angel so we know where you actually are
Sorry can't for the areas we're under and how close we have to get to show detail.
Agree totally. Start wide then zoom in
It would be cool if gm would fix this issue that is exactly the same on every Chevy back to at least 92
To be fair, a lot of these ground placements are common on all pickups. I've found grounds on Japanese SUVS behind the front bumper shell. At least these you can get to, clean and grease.
Subbed!
Thank you! Every subscriber helps!
Would a bad ground cause weird electrical issues such as wipers coming on by themselves, lights turning on when key isn't even in ignition and blinkers coming on?
Possibly or a bad turn signal switch.
Bullbutter
Would be awesome to get a point of reference outside of the vehicle instead of having your phone shoved up so far we can’t see where to start lol
For $50/ hr you can video call me and we'll go over all the grounding points on my truck on the hoist.
Don't complain when someone gives information for free.
Hopefully you get this message within your video you were pointing out the ground wire into the right of your hand it appears the frame on that truck is cracked
Nope that's just undercoating.
Hi I Wish You Was In Boynton Beach Florida I Can Pay You Fix It
I'm sure there's a bunch a decent car audio shops in your area that can do the job easily if you show them the video.
Thanks Anthony. I'm having a no start, no crank issue. I think it could be ground issue. Could you spare any advice? 2003 sierra 2500 hd.
Check all your fuses under the hood and inside the truck. This video might help too ruclips.net/video/W5OHrYJqtEQ/видео.html
Just to throw this out there, dielectric grease is actually an insulator and can not conduct electricity. It is pretty good at keeping them from corroding, but, putting it between a ground terminal and a physical ground is a good way to keep that ground from working.
Did you test and verify that theory? Because I did here: ruclips.net/video/YgJRKlE7pYg/видео.html
Have you had connections fail due to dielectric grease consistently?
Very informational but I was not exactly sure where a couple of these connections were located.
Which areas?
Couldnt you just route the negative battery cable through the sensor and to a distribution block and then run additional grounds to that block as well?
You could. Just make the new ground thicker.
I have a 2015 Silverado ltz 6.2 and the dash goes nuts when the lights are on with four warning messages. When the lights off it's a normal dash. My brother said it's the grounding wire. But doesn't know which one.
Would it be the last ground you fixed in the video of the BCM? With an extra wire?
I would start by resealing the roof antenna ruclips.net/video/Rjy4sqzzHgI/видео.htmlsi=pQ0TRJZaI2MWAPt0
I’m very new to automotive and my 99 Chevy Silverado recently went down, got stuck in the sand and switched to 4wd high no problem and now it can’t switch back to 2wd, I’ve replaced the actuator, control module, checked switches and still nothing, we suppose it could be an electrical issue… would you suspect a dirty ground to be causing such an issue like this? Thanks for your help :)
Check the ground at the driver's side body mount behind the front tire.
Do you think its a ground problem when i use the window switched the lights dim out and the cluster as well. Not only that when i turn the ac on the rpms drop and go up, also another thing is that when reversing and turning the wheel the truck sometimes turns off. Im beggining tk think its an electrical problem. Any idea or tips of what ir could be ?
Poor grounds and possibly old battery. A little dimming when those accorries run is normal, especially on power windows.
Good job was having the same problem you got me through it appreciate you 👍🏾
So glad to hear you were able to fix your truck!
Nice video man. Going to upgrade and do some ground maintenance on my 09 Silverado soon. What model Tesa tape do you use for under hood applications? Also can the relay box on drivers side be grounded additionally?
We used Exterior Tesa for under hood and chassis applications. I never redid any grounds at the distribution center under the hood.
What you can do is clean it and put dielectric grease on the connectors of all the mini relays and all the plugs under the hood.
You should inform watchers that they SHOULD NOT put dielectric grease on the actual ground connection to metal, or on the bolt or threads. Dielectric grease will PREVENT a good flow of electrons, and thus you will get a poor ground. ONLY put the dielectric grease on the EXTERIOR of the new ground bolt and around the outside of the wire connection area to prevent corrosion. I learned this the hard way on another vehicle.
Depends on the grease, because it's suppose to displace. All manufactures state it doesn't impede the connection.
I did a video on the grease here ruclips.net/video/YgJRKlE7pYg/видео.htmlsi=o2ZmiL2VDEm04iD1
Did you document your findings by any chance?
@@AnthonyJ350 Others agree with me on this. Give this a try: Remove your batter cables from the posts, then apply dielectric grease all over the posts and inside the cable terminals. Reconnect them, and try driving your vehicle for a week. You will soon get very poor electron flow, and your starter solenoid will be making the typical clac-clac-clac-clac noise when you try to start.......just isnt getting enough amps to allow the solenoid to energize the starter. Another example: apply the dielectric grease liberally all over a standard auto light bulb metal end, where the electrons flow to/from it. Apply to the bottom part and around the metal side of the bulb, and then insert bulb back into connection. You will find a voltage loss going to the bulb, the bulb will burn weaker, or might fail to come on.
@@crazeyspivey I do do that. Did you not watch the video I sent? There's no voltage loss.
I literally work on electrical for vehicles every day. What product are you using?
@@crazeyspivey Here you go, it's a myth www.nyelubricants.com/myth-grease-interferes-with-conductivity
After i cleaned my grounds i sprayed some of rustoleum rust reformer over them. Now i have to jump start the truck cause the battery gets drained in about a day. Its a 2006 gmc sierra 1500 denali.
Do a battery test
Doesn't make sense you have more parasitic draw after cleaning the grounds. They're all tight?
My 2015 Sierra is having an issue that I think might be a ground problem? When I drive gravel and hit a bump or even just loose gravel that would cause the engine to work harder “service stabilitrack” and “service 4wd” pops up and the power to my stereo cuts out and the engine feels like it has no power as well as the gas gauge dropping down…
All the time or if it's raining? Check this video too ruclips.net/video/Rjy4sqzzHgI/видео.html
do you have to disconnect the negative from the battery before doing anything else? or is it safe to remove, clean, and reconnect grounds with the battery connected?
To be 100% safe it's best to disconnect the battery, but if just adding grounds you can leave it connected.
We have a 2016 Chevy Silverado Texas Edition with a big electrical issue. All electrical will shut off, hence the truck turns off, while driving (even at fast speeds). 3 shops later and no one can pinpoint the issue. It is not throwing the P or U codes they expect, only C codes. After this last time, battery terminal red was blazing hot, but they say the battery is checking out fine. Not sure if battery cables are an issue ($700). People are speculating about "ground plates" touching and grounding out the system. The truck stays off for about 15 minutes, then the electric system begins to work again and you can start the truck. Very scary situation in traffic. Any thoughts or other areas to check? Voltage has been checked, battery, etc. Thanks
Battery cables make sense. This isn't the first time I've heard this. So there's new cables and you still have issues?
@@AnthonyJ350 No sir, we haven't made the investment in that yet as we were still trying to get a more focused diagnosis. We felt like starting small with a new battery and possibly cables would be the smart place to start. Thoughts?