Alizarin Crimson PR83 Watercolour - My First Attempt at Doing a Lightfast Test
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2021
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I would LOVE to try Alizarin Crimson one day. I only sketch in journals, so light fastness is not an issue for me. There is something about it that just whispers, “paint with me.” NR9 Rose Madder Genuine also whispers to me. Recently PY40 Aureolin started whispering to me too. I also want to try Gamboge, genuine Sap green and dragon’s blood… that last one is a paint, I don’t want to actually drink the blood of a dragon 😂. And they are all rather fugitive… sigh 🤤
Tammy, for a more precise test, you'd cut your paper in half and save half inside a dark drawer and the other half on the window, this way you have a half that was not affected by light to compare with the one on the window.
I know it will fade some, but PR83 is my favorite red and I have it always on my palette, just need to be mindful on when to use.
Haha why did I not think of that 🤣🤣!
I do love it as well, it’s a beautiful pigment. Thank you for watching the video and the helpful advice
I have an old pan of Winson and Newton alizarin crimson and did my own lightfast test. It had faded within 3 months but when used at full strength masstone it hasn’t faded after 6 months. I live in Australia so harsh sun.
Aww yes, it’s a lot hotter there than the uk lol
Used strongly, as a deep dark red, genuine Alizarin Crimson is almost half decent lightfast, though it will become duller. It's when you use it weakly, for pale tinting, or modifying browns, grays, greens, blues, skin tones, pale rose, then it will fade quickly. The same goes for lightfastness tests. You will understand the results better if you make a long graduation that goes to very pale. It's the pale areas that will show you the weakness best. Also, as Patricia suggests, cut the strips in half and store one half in a dark drawer.
Also, there's not much point in testing different brands against each other, when it comes to genuine Alizarin. The results are rather fixed.
Don't use Alizarin for art intended for hanged display. It's just not good enough.
Aww fab, thank you for that! I’ll swatch them again and start over. I love Alizarin Crimson 😊
@@TammyNewmanArt Well, There is no contending, cold, red pigment that is as strong, deep and transparent as Alizarin. But frankly, I think I need to say one thing: If you're interested enough in durability to do your own lightfastness tests, then I'm sorry but then you probably don't want to use genuine Alizarin. 😧
There are the "permanent Alizarin" Crimsons (quinacridone and/or perylene pigments). But for a lot of things Alizarin is used for in mixes, Burnt Sienna or Venetian Red works very well. And if stronger red tint is needed, I use gamma quinacridone and beta quinacridone. These are the rose and magenta/purple hues of PV19.
Aww thank you for that, I suppose the saying ‘the brightest spark burns out the quickest’ must apply to Alizarin Crimson.
I do have some other cool reds PV19 based and I suppose I’ll have to get used to using them. It looks like I’ll have to relegate my Alizarin Crimson to Sketch Book and paintings I plan on just getting prints made from 😢.
Thank you again for taking the time to comment, can I ask - is it only watercolour that AC has lightfastness issues? I also use it in oils, especially when mixing a dark grey with viridian or phathlo green 😊
@@TammyNewmanArt No, Alizarin is not particularly good for permanence in oil either.
The most 'acceptable' way to use Alizarin is strongly as a dark red. The most vulnerable way to use it, is as a complementary in mixing colors, or as a pale rose. (For your dark greys, I assume you used it strongly so I wouldn't worry too much). But switch to one of the “Permanent Alizarin Crimsons”.
I'm rather unconvinced by the need to have Alizarin in the palette. My tip is you should explore using a red Burnt Sienna (W&N) or Transparent Oxide Red as your main goto 'minus-green' for mixing colors. Back it up with a PV19.
Another mixing paint I'd encourage you to explore is W&N's “new” Lamp Black. I'm saying “new” because I don't know when they revamped it. Lamp Black was the first black watercolor paint I bought when I was young, half a century ago. And I absolutely didn't like it. I found it sooty. And I was never completely comfortable with any other black either. By chance I recently got back to Lamp Black, and I now think it's fantastic (both in 'Professional' and Cotman). It's good for darkening and deepening any color. (work it well in premixing). No complementary recipes needed.
It's a good base for greys as well. But a good old standard recipe for a warm or cold grey base is Burnt Sienna and some blue. (typically Cobalt Blue).
Another tip. You can paint 100% fade proof, faint, light pinks (guaranteed for 40,000 years 😉 ) with Light Red, Venetian Red or Indian Red. Work it well into the water first and keep it weak.
And good luck with your tests. It's the best way to get a personal feel for the permanence of the materials you use.