VW valve guides air cooled classic vintage Volkswagen heads
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2015
- Here's a video I made that shows how I changed the valve guides on my 1965 baja bug. The engine is a 1600 dual port. Just sharing how I did it, what to look for and my opinion on things.
Here's a story about buying the guides, as usual, things are always more complicated then they appear to be: First, I drove to a sort of local VW parts place and measured the valve guides they were selling because I had my doubts they were selling the right stuff... It's a good thing I made the trip, none of the .002" oversize guides they were selling where the right size, I checked with my old school caliper and had an old valve guide with me from my Brazilian head... Of course the guy there said "mine are the right size, your numbers are bogus, why don't you buy some expensive cylinder heads from us and be done with it" After getting that speech I left that place quick in not the happiest of moods. After that fun and games I bought my guides from a big internet VW parts place in California... Well... they screwed up my order, I got one original size guide when I should have got a .002" oversize guide. So they got 7 out of the 8 guides right: Sheesh. I really didn't want to deal with the big internet parts place again because they had already wasted a bunch of my time by sending the wrong part and the shipping was slow because they are a million miles away. So.... on with the saga... Quite a few years ago I stumbled upon www.ebuggies.com/ and had it saved in my internet bookmarks because I thought some day I might buy from them because things looked legit on their website... I emailed them about my one odd ball sized valve guide that I needed. Right away I got a response "We have that, give us a call" So I called them and it was a great experience. The guy on the phone seemed to really care about my silly little project. He spent quite a bit of time with me and he measured the guides he had so I knew they would work. Mind you, this is all for a stupid little $15 or so purchase... This guy wanted to honestly help me. Anyways, when I got the 2 guides I bought from them of course all was perfect, exactly how we measured things over the phone... I ended up using the .002" OS guide I bought from them. It was a simple case of good old fashion customer service, knowing what they are talking about and caring about what the customer wanted to do. A rare thing and a refreshing change after having not so good dealings with other places. If you are dealing with odd ball over sized guides like I did in this video I would for sure call up www.ebuggies.com/. 
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Great video and advice. Most of us started out this way. Hope you get lots of smiles to the miles with your project.
I loved how you made your own valve guides puller that is a good trek to keep in mind. Great video.
Young Man I truly appreciate everything you've done I was so afraid of wrecking my engine and for 10 plus years my engine and car have sat in my back yard. But after listening to the last part of your video you motivated me to grow a pair and go for it . At first I was like man will he get on with it that was a few years ago and this year after taking St John's wort you made complete sense. Lol I guess it was my brain . But keep em coming and God bless you and your Family.
Blessings
Thanks for the kind words Mike. Best of luck to you.
If you put the guides in the freezer overnight, and the head in the oven at 400F for 30min, they'll drop right in, so you don't have to beat the piss out of your heads.
Thanks for the comment. My thoughts on this, what you are saying is correct in a “in most cases” kind of a way. My thoughts are that every cylinder head, every freezer, every oven and ambient temperature are a little different for everyone so results vary on the oven heating, freezer cooling and guide dropping in deal... I could be wrong but those are my thoughts on the subject.
I have heard of some mad scientist type guys that sit the guides in liquid nitrogen so they really get cold before dropping them in... A little to fancy for me but if it works, it works. Like I mentioned in the vid, there are other ways to do things. This is just the way I did it.
This has been very helpful, thank you.
vza423 Good deal. I was hoping it might help someone
out there.
Good job dude. 👍
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos saludos desde Oaxaca México
Haven't heard 7merry3 in a long time.
i got mine at sears on sale and its fantastic works great on sale also for like 31 bucks can't beat it check it out guys , rock on or build on LOL , oh i was talking about the valve spring comp that was ,
you did good kiddo i am an old fart LOL and from experience i leave things stock period i got tired of braking shit with the big 440's and marine block bored and all that crap its expensive and frustrating because we where pushing things to the limit , now older i just wanna drive and to light maintenance anymore , BUT YOU WILL LEARN A GREAT DEAL BY MAKING MISTAKES . enjoy
where did you buy your over size valve guides?
👍
More videos
did you make that spring compressor?
I bought it from someplace on the internet... It's been so long ago I don't remember exactly where I bought. Here it is on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Empi-Bench-Mount-Volkswagen-Assembly/dp/B00BJPYAYW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1535810013&sr=1-1&keywords=Empi+5742
I have my engine removed last year because the spark plug kept popping out. I am having trouble removing the engine head as the rusted bolts of muffler are really hard to remove. Once I remove the engine heads... I will do exactly what you have said in this video, THANK YOU! but if you have any advise on how to remove the engine head, I would appreciate it. the mufflers have to come off, right?
Thank you for making it LOOK Easy!
Afra Bangash
Hi Afra!
First, your spark plug popping out problem: Clean everything and look over everything real good in the combustion chamber area on the heads you plan on using. Make sure there are no cracks going into the spark plug area… If there are cracks that have made their way to where the spark plug goes unfortunately your heads are no good and you will need to find different ones... There is no use rebuilding a head if it continues to shoot out spark plugs after you are done. This is pretty much how I gauge if a head can be rebuilt: If there are cracks that go into where the spark plug threads in, the heads are trash… If there are no cracks going to the spark plug area you can fix/rebuild them and you will have something that is usable when you are done. Here is a picture showing a crack going to the spark plug… This head should not be rebuilt. images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1154275.jpg
Other cracks in the cylinder head: It is also very common for heads to crack between the valve seats in the combustion chamber. Some people freak out about this and think they need to buy new heads when they have cracks there… These cracks are not that big of a deal in my opinion. As a matter of fact the Brazilian heads I show in this video have cracks between the valve seats... I have not had any trouble and I drive in hot weather at old VW type highway speeds (55 - 60 mph) for long periods of time. Here is a picture of cracks between the valve seats... This head is probably ok to rebuild. live2think.com/pictures/2014.02.26-Free-engine/IMG_4520.jpg
One final comment on you spark plug issue: If there are no cracks in the head going to the spark plug and you continue to have the plug shooting out problem you can put in what they call a timesert or helicoil to hold the plug in.
And yes, the exhaust studs and screws are a big problem on old heads. They are sensitive fiddly things. The exhaust studs many times will break off when you try to turn the nuts. If they break off you will have to drill out the old broken stud and re tap new threads for new studs… Not fun. To give yourself a fighting chance in getting things apart first try penetrating oil like WD40 and spray the screws… Do this quite a few times, don’t be in a hurry to turn anything. I like to very gently tap the screw from time to time with a hammer while the WD40 is on there. I don’t know if it actually does anything but the thought is that it might help to get some of the penetrating oil down into the screw. Anyways, just spray, walk away for a few minutes, then spray again and so on and so forth for an hour or two… You might even want to have things sit overnight with the WD40 on them. When you are ready to “break things loose” get your wrench on the nut and tap the end of the wrench with your hand to turn the nut… This puts torque on the nut very quickly. Eventually either the nut will spin or the screw/stud will break… Unfortunately it is as simple as that. Do yourself a favor and do not pull on the wrench slowly with your full strength like a gorilla... Slow movements using a lot of strength will break things. Fast movements of the wrench with a light touch is what you want.
If all else fails and you haven’t broken anything get a propane torch and try heating up the nut. That frees things up sometimes as the metal expanse from the heat.
If by some miracle you get everything apart with out breaking things make sure to clean up the rusty old threads on the screws with a wire wheel attached to an electric drill… This helps prevent future rust.
Anyways, the main thing is to do everything you can to not break the exhaust screws. If you do break them it is what it is but at least try your best to save them.
Good luck.
Andrew Silvers Thank you for your valuable, priceless advice. I'll let you know how it goes...
Afrasiab Bangash No problem Afra. I always enjoy talking about old VW’s and trying to help.
Also, I wanted to make it clear: Most everything I talk about here with cylinder heads is only for if you have a 100% stock factory original style engine. If you have a modified engine with stiffer than original valve springs, bigger than original camshaft or other “go fast” parts I would never recommend using any head that has cracks between the valve seats on that type of engine.
Andrew Silvers ok! Gotcha