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If you don't remove the fuel pressure from the system there is a good chance that you will get fuel under pressure spraying all over everything when you remove the injector. It is best to play it safe, remove the fuse and do the engine crank/run to remove the fuel pressure. It is a simple thing that can help prevent a fire or save your eyes from being blasted with gas. I put motor oil on the injector O rings before installing... Doing that makes the O rings slippery so things go together more easy and it reduces the chance of damaging the O rings.

I bought it from someplace on the internet... It's been so long ago I don't remember exactly where I bought. Here it is on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Empi-Bench-Mount-Volkswagen-Assembly/dp/B00BJPYAYW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1535810013&sr=1-1&keywords=Empi+5742

Thanks for the kind words Mike. Best of luck to you.

+Trigger Gunn No

Afra Bangash Hi Afra! First, your spark plug popping out problem: Clean everything and look over everything real good in the combustion chamber area on the heads you plan on using. Make sure there are no cracks going into the spark plug area… If there are cracks that have made their way to where the spark plug goes unfortunately your heads are no good and you will need to find different ones... There is no use rebuilding a head if it continues to shoot out spark plugs after you are done. This is pretty much how I gauge if a head can be rebuilt: If there are cracks that go into where the spark plug threads in, the heads are trash… If there are no cracks going to the spark plug area you can fix/rebuild them and you will have something that is usable when you are done. Here is a picture showing a crack going to the spark plug… This head should not be rebuilt. images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1154275.jpg Other cracks in the cylinder head: It is also very common for heads to crack between the valve seats in the combustion chamber. Some people freak out about this and think they need to buy new heads when they have cracks there… These cracks are not that big of a deal in my opinion. As a matter of fact the Brazilian heads I show in this video have cracks between the valve seats... I have not had any trouble and I drive in hot weather at old VW type highway speeds (55 - 60 mph) for long periods of time. Here is a picture of cracks between the valve seats... This head is probably ok to rebuild. live2think.com/pictures/2014.02.26-Free-engine/IMG_4520.jpg One final comment on you spark plug issue: If there are no cracks in the head going to the spark plug and you continue to have the plug shooting out problem you can put in what they call a timesert or helicoil to hold the plug in. And yes, the exhaust studs and screws are a big problem on old heads. They are sensitive fiddly things. The exhaust studs many times will break off when you try to turn the nuts. If they break off you will have to drill out the old broken stud and re tap new threads for new studs… Not fun. To give yourself a fighting chance in getting things apart first try penetrating oil like WD40 and spray the screws… Do this quite a few times, don’t be in a hurry to turn anything. I like to very gently tap the screw from time to time with a hammer while the WD40 is on there. I don’t know if it actually does anything but the thought is that it might help to get some of the penetrating oil down into the screw. Anyways, just spray, walk away for a few minutes, then spray again and so on and so forth for an hour or two… You might even want to have things sit overnight with the WD40 on them. When you are ready to “break things loose” get your wrench on the nut and tap the end of the wrench with your hand to turn the nut… This puts torque on the nut very quickly. Eventually either the nut will spin or the screw/stud will break… Unfortunately it is as simple as that. Do yourself a favor and do not pull on the wrench slowly with your full strength like a gorilla... Slow movements using a lot of strength will break things. Fast movements of the wrench with a light touch is what you want. If all else fails and you haven’t broken anything get a propane torch and try heating up the nut. That frees things up sometimes as the metal expanse from the heat. If by some miracle you get everything apart with out breaking things make sure to clean up the rusty old threads on the screws with a wire wheel attached to an electric drill… This helps prevent future rust. Anyways, the main thing is to do everything you can to not break the exhaust screws. If you do break them it is what it is but at least try your best to save them. Good luck.

Andrew Silvers Thank you for your valuable, priceless advice. I'll let you know how it goes...

Afrasiab Bangash No problem Afra. I always enjoy talking about old VW’s and trying to help. Also, I wanted to make it clear: Most everything I talk about here with cylinder heads is only for if you have a 100% stock factory original style engine. If you have a modified engine with stiffer than original valve springs, bigger than original camshaft or other “go fast” parts I would never recommend using any head that has cracks between the valve seats on that type of engine.

Andrew Silvers ok! Gotcha

vza423 Good deal. I was hoping it might help someone out there.

Hello David, thank you for the comment and interest. Hopefully you can get yours going again soon. You are right, it does not do very well at all in the wind. Any wind over say 10 mph is too much for this little plane. It does much better on no wind days. My “strategy” is to fly it with the nose pointed into the wind as much as possible. While you are flying it in the headwind do your best to gain altitude because you will loose altitude when you do the downwind turn around. Also, make sure you are at the edge of your flying field where the wind hits first when you try your first downwind turn around on a windy day… It is very easy to have the plane get farther away from you then you would like when the wind catches this little light plane… You need to always keep in mind that the wind is probably moving faster than this little plane goes so the controls barley do anything when you are flying downwind. It is kind of a pull the stick and wait kind of deal when flying downwind but that is kind of how this plane is all the time so it was easy for me to get used to. Anyways, just some windy day tips and ramblings. As mentioned it is best to just fly on calm or no wind days. I have found that the wind is usually calmest in the morning and in the evening right before sunset so that would be the best time to fly the wing dragon. It is a great plane to learn with. Simple, easy to repair, high propeller. I taught myself how to fly with mine after failing spectacularly with a powered Tower Hobbies Vista glider. I have had my Wing Dragon for about four years. If there are any other questions feel free to ask them: I wouldn't call myself a know it all expert but I have messed around a lot with this little plane in stock form and enjoy it for what it is. :)

Thanks Andrew,

David Isaacson ill let you know when I get it flying again soon,