I think you've stumbled onto the best way of teaching: by making the common mistakes anyone might make and then pointing them out. Really enjoying all the vids, Sam. Keep em coming.
Thanks @@JACKOFALLTODD, that was our unintentional, intent! We could have edited the video to look like everything went perfectly, but I think there is way more value in highlighting the mistakes. I'm not perfect, and I don't claim to be. I've learned by making mistakes, and hopefully my mistakes will help others learning the process!
Very interesting and honest build showing mistakes which we all do when new to these or other type engines. I decided one time way back to open up my 350 68 firebird stock motor on the freeway and after running it that way I messed up the engine. Didn't know you can do that to a stock engine. Anyway, took it apart and the pushrods were bent, and the lifters were dished bad. I took the heads in and had them gone over and replaced any valves and had the head milled. I put everything back together but made another mistake. when I went to start it there was no compression? Turned out I didn't read the correct torque for the rockers and torqued them to the head bolt torque. Woops, so check everything out and all was still good so got it running and ran great after that. I'm rebuilding a old 1965 1200 40hp stock vw engine right now and surprisingly the measurements are still within stock so buying a new jug/piston kit, gaskets and new bearings for the crank and conrods. no bearings for the cam on the old ones. all clean just getting ready to run oil through all the oil passages to make sure they are good to go.
That was fantastic -- really appreciate you keeping it real -- no fanfare, marketing hype, or sleight of hand. I learned a great deal, please keep the tutorials coming.
Good job, Sam! I'm currently putting together my first VW engine, a 2017cc stroker, also from a kit. It's a bit more performance oriented and I've had to and/or chosen to do quite a bit of "fitting", like sizing the double-thrust cam bearing, deburring camshaft, some oiling improvements on the bearings, and even had to have my Mahle cylinders turned to adjust the deck height/CR. I chose to measure everything with precision, degree my cam, and lots of other stuff. I agree with @stuck1000 that seeing your small common mistakes, rather than you editing them out or hiding them, will only make mine and many other's projects go smoother for us. So: Thanks!
Thanks! The sky is the limit when it comes to how far you want to go when building an engine. The more attention to detail the better, for sure and especially with a performance build. I do want to cover a more performance build and touch base on all the small things like weighing pistons, setting ring gap, Hoover mods, etc but I also don’t want to overwhelm people!
Great video! Building a 1600 now. After watching the rod orientation snafu, I double checked my rods. 2 were upside down! You helped me catch that before I got too far! On the subject of the rockers centered on the valve stems. I believe you don’t want them centered. The rocker is to slightly rotate the valve with each cycle. This is accomplished by being slightly off center. Valve and stem both wear more evenly this way.
I love this series! I love that you did not edit that stuff out. There are too many guys that would let their pride get in the way with making those mistakes on video. I thought it was funny aiden makes it real I can’t wait to see it running! Keep it going.!!!
Thanks, we're gathering the rest of the parts to make this a turn key engine currently. We, like all of you out there still have to wait for back orders with our own projects!
Appreciate the honesty and humbleness, it's a welcome change. Sam shows that the "every man" is capable of tackling almost anything armed with only 13, 15, and 17mm wrenches. Thanks for sharing, but where is part 3?
It’s in the can, we’ve had a busy schedule and I’m on vacation til June! This engine is running and then it got robbed for our 2234cc engine that I put together for EMPI’s Engine Battle.
Thanks for posting this up. This is realistic and relatable as I personally have made similar mistakes during builds and probably still will. Thank you!
Back in the day I took a 1600cc and updated it to a 1641 with pistons and Cylinders, I think it was 2005 and never had an issue with it had the 64 bug since 1991 got rid of the car a couple of years ago and was still running. I now have a 1967 bug doing a full ground up on it and this is my first complete engine I'm doing I hope I do good ..
Don't let my mistakes fool you, they really are pretty simple! When you aren't trying to describe every step and make sure the camera can see what you are doing it ain't bad at all!
Hello, I understand you have many errands to do. I was wondering if you have any plan for the videos to finish the accessories such as carburetor, intake, etc.and plus test running as you mentioned at end of this video?
Why the sealant instead of the paper gasket? I'm not building a high compression, race engine either so my deck measurement is about the same as yours. WIth the gasket it is at .070 ish. So, what are your thoughts on paper gasket alone and then paper gasket with sealant. Thanks.
I am not aware of any VW engine builders that use the paper gaskets that come with the kits. Everyone I have learned from uses their preferred sealant and whatever shims are needed to set the compression ratio and that is it.
@sam_mebane what do you do about the head studs as far as tightening them? Do you snug them? Torque them? Or snug them and back them off a little? I’m getting conflicting info online and my local guru is out of town.
I'm not a guru by any means, I torque them in to 7 to set the tubes, then tighten to 18 (for 8mm) or 23 (for 10mm) and call it a day. Ideally, after a break in period, I like to go back and re-check the torque.
The jugs are critical if you want most power + most mpg + smoother engine.. flat file to close then hine it to perfection! also after the break -in= them valves need be re- ajusted and centered.. and lock tight med + can file sides to make it center the bolt ! after 3 oil changes = ad lucas oil treatment and last 10k miles oil change if use good oil.
These are stock ratio rockers so there isn't a need to go through the rocker geometry. We did install a set of 1.4:1 rockers during this build - ruclips.net/video/eTWXzYWieeg/видео.html
I think you've stumbled onto the best way of teaching: by making the common mistakes anyone might make and then pointing them out. Really enjoying all the vids, Sam. Keep em coming.
No one is perfect but God. We all make mistakes, fortunately most of them can be fixed!
@@Sam_Mebane Well said.👍
I enjoyed the fact this wasn't someone who does this everyday cuz they make things look too easy. He shows us this is doable
Thanks @@JACKOFALLTODD, that was our unintentional, intent! We could have edited the video to look like everything went perfectly, but I think there is way more value in highlighting the mistakes. I'm not perfect, and I don't claim to be. I've learned by making mistakes, and hopefully my mistakes will help others learning the process!
Very interesting and honest build showing mistakes which we all do when new to these or other type engines. I decided one time way back to open up my 350 68 firebird stock motor on the freeway and after running it that way I messed up the engine. Didn't know you can do that to a stock engine. Anyway, took it apart and the pushrods were bent, and the lifters were dished bad. I took the heads in and had them gone over and replaced any valves and had the head milled. I put everything back together but made another mistake. when I went to start it there was no compression? Turned out I didn't read the correct torque for the rockers and torqued them to the head bolt torque. Woops, so check everything out and all was still good so got it running and ran great after that. I'm rebuilding a old 1965 1200 40hp stock vw engine right now and surprisingly the measurements are still within stock so buying a new jug/piston kit, gaskets and new bearings for the crank and conrods. no bearings for the cam on the old ones. all clean just getting ready to run oil through all the oil passages to make sure they are good to go.
That was fantastic -- really appreciate you keeping it real -- no fanfare, marketing hype, or sleight of hand. I learned a great deal, please keep the tutorials coming.
WIll do, thank you! We have the rest of this engine's build filmed already but the videos haven't made it out yet due to other projects.
This was a true learning video for me, especially when the small mistakes are kept in. Thanks for that!
Absolutely! It's great when everything goes perfectly, but what do you do when it doesn't?!
Thank you Sam! Love the honesty and humbleness. Very inspiring for sure.
Good job, Sam! I'm currently putting together my first VW engine, a 2017cc stroker, also from a kit. It's a bit more performance oriented and I've had to and/or chosen to do quite a bit of "fitting", like sizing the double-thrust cam bearing, deburring camshaft, some oiling improvements on the bearings, and even had to have my Mahle cylinders turned to adjust the deck height/CR. I chose to measure everything with precision, degree my cam, and lots of other stuff. I agree with @stuck1000 that seeing your small common mistakes, rather than you editing them out or hiding them, will only make mine and many other's projects go smoother for us. So: Thanks!
Thanks! The sky is the limit when it comes to how far you want to go when building an engine. The more attention to detail the better, for sure and especially with a performance build. I do want to cover a more performance build and touch base on all the small things like weighing pistons, setting ring gap, Hoover mods, etc but I also don’t want to overwhelm people!
Great video! Building a 1600 now. After watching the rod orientation snafu, I double checked my rods. 2 were upside down! You helped me catch that before I got too far!
On the subject of the rockers centered on the valve stems. I believe you don’t want them centered. The rocker is to slightly rotate the valve with each cycle. This is accomplished by being slightly off center. Valve and stem both wear more evenly this way.
I love this series! I love that you did not edit that stuff out. There are too many guys that would let their pride get in the way with making those mistakes on video. I thought it was funny aiden makes it real I can’t wait to see it running! Keep it going.!!!
Thanks, we're gathering the rest of the parts to make this a turn key engine currently. We, like all of you out there still have to wait for back orders with our own projects!
Appreciate the honesty and humbleness, it's a welcome change. Sam shows that the "every man" is capable of tackling almost anything armed with only 13, 15, and 17mm wrenches. Thanks for sharing, but where is part 3?
It’s in the can, we’ve had a busy schedule and I’m on vacation til June! This engine is running and then it got robbed for our 2234cc engine that I put together for EMPI’s Engine Battle.
@@Sam_Mebane thanks Sam, i wanted to make sure i wasn't having a "senior" moment and missed the video :)
Thanks for posting this up. This is realistic and relatable as I personally have made similar mistakes during builds and probably still will. Thank you!
Back in the day I took a 1600cc and updated it to a 1641 with pistons and Cylinders, I think it was 2005 and never had an issue with it had the 64 bug since 1991 got rid of the car a couple of years ago and was still running. I now have a 1967 bug doing a full ground up on it and this is my first complete engine I'm doing I hope I do good ..
You've got it, just pay attention to the details!
you're really making me want to buy one of these kits! thank you for sharing
Don't let my mistakes fool you, they really are pretty simple! When you aren't trying to describe every step and make sure the camera can see what you are doing it ain't bad at all!
Hello, I understand you have many errands to do. I was wondering if you have any plan for the videos to finish the accessories such as carburetor, intake, etc.and plus test running as you mentioned at end of this video?
Hopefully we'll get this engine put together fairly soon so we can clean up the shop and get ready for our 2234cc engine build.
@@Sam_Mebane Awesome, can't wait!
Nice build!! Fun video to watch
Thanks!
Do you have Part 3 on this great tutorial video?
It has been filmed but we haven't had a chance to release it yet.
Why the sealant instead of the paper gasket? I'm not building a high compression, race engine either so my deck measurement is about the same as yours. WIth the gasket it is at .070 ish. So, what are your thoughts on paper gasket alone and then paper gasket with sealant. Thanks.
I am not aware of any VW engine builders that use the paper gaskets that come with the kits. Everyone I have learned from uses their preferred sealant and whatever shims are needed to set the compression ratio and that is it.
Thank you buddy 😊😊😊😊
You didn't check your ring gap
I never do with Mahle P&Cs in a stock engine. We’re not turbo charging it and it’s a low compression engine.
@sam_mebane what do you do about the head studs as far as tightening them? Do you snug them? Torque them? Or snug them and back them off a little? I’m getting conflicting info online and my local guru is out of town.
I'm not a guru by any means, I torque them in to 7 to set the tubes, then tighten to 18 (for 8mm) or 23 (for 10mm) and call it a day. Ideally, after a break in period, I like to go back and re-check the torque.
@@Sam_Mebane I’m talking for the actual head studs in the case.
@@zacharysawyer6241 I thread them in by hand until they bottom out and call it a day.
@@Sam_Mebane I like it. Thank you!
The jugs are critical if you want most power + most mpg + smoother engine.. flat file to close then hine it to perfection! also after the break -in= them valves need be re- ajusted and centered.. and lock tight med + can file sides to make it center the bolt ! after 3 oil changes = ad lucas oil treatment and last 10k miles oil change if use good oil.
you didn't show how to get the ring compressor out
I figured it out. by turning the crank over it gives well enough room to slide it out from under the piston🤡
It's a split ring compressor, not that much of a trick! www.jbugs.com/product/5764.html
With 7.2:1 CR which octane fuel are you using?
Personally I always run premium fuel in air-cooled engines but some people have run 87 without any issues.
Stock CR is 7.5 to 1 regular gas is fine just try to not Lug the engine down
Muy buen video. Saludos
Gracias!
Rocker arm geometry next
These are stock ratio rockers so there isn't a need to go through the rocker geometry. We did install a set of 1.4:1 rockers during this build - ruclips.net/video/eTWXzYWieeg/видео.html
Tight pin is not good.
Thoroughly enjoyed that, thank you 🙏