JBugs - Installing a SVDA Distributor with Electronic Ignition
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- View our complete selection of air-cooled VW parts on the JBugs website: www.jbugs.com/
We've had one of our employee's cars sitting in our shop for awhile now and as it is the midst of the summer here in Phoenix, it 's not like he would have been driving it regularly. We had some free time in between other projects and videos and now that fall is just around the corner we figure we might as well get some work done on it. So after replacing the stock carburetor and getting the 009 distributor that was in the car properly timed, we pulled the 009 distributor out so we could install a SVDA (Single Vacuum, Dual Advance) distributor that comes with an electronic ignition. The SVDA distributor is far better suited for driving than the old 009 distributor. Plus, the electronic points set up works considerably better than the old points and condenser style ignition with less maintenance.
Intro: 0:00
Distributor removal prep: 1:00
Distributor information: 2:40
Distributor installation: 4:35
Spark plug wire installation: 6:32
Catching mistakes: 7:11
Checking coil resistance: 8:02
Important wiring notes: 8:21
Distributor wiring: 10:00
Setting max advance (without vacuum) :12:45
Finding and correcting a fuel leak: 15:15
Installing vacuum line: 19:15
Pre-test drive inspection: 19:57
Test drive: 20:40
Final inspection: 21:33
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Parts used in this video:
www.jbugs.com/product/186504....
www.jbugs.com/product/N203531...
All parts used in this video are available at: www.jbugs.com/
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Music Provided By:
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Videos are intended for entertainment purposes. Factory specifications should be followed when performing any task on your vehicle. 
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Saw the cross, subscribed. Nice to see family I've never met in person doing great videos.
Thanks Coda! I wore that bracelet 24 hours a day til it broke and now I have a black one that replaced it.
This is the best instructor and i love to watch him.
I don't know about "the best", but thank you for the kind words!
I recently reversed two spark plug wires and it did run, but really reallly bad. Because I was just beginning the project of getting her back on the road again, I blamed everything EXCEPT that two spark plugs might be reversed. I never even considered the possiblity that it would even start at all! Anyway... I'm sharing my big mistake with you because you were man enough to admit it in this video. If you're reading, thanks for your hard work helping us keep our VWs aliive!
PS another consequence of crossing the two spark plug wires, three stock oil cooler failed during my attempt to get the engine running right. The 'waging and torquing of the engine caused by the out of place spark plug wires caused me to replace 3 (yes 3) oil coolers during my quest to find out what why my 72's engine ran so bad.
Sharing my goof with everyone here if I may...if I had checked all spark plug wire connections I would have saved literally weeks of my time. 5 minutes would have saved me so much time and frustration.
Another great post Sam, and a great continuation to the 009 you covered last week👍🏼
Thanks for a great video. It was very helpful for the installation of my Pertronix SVDA in my 74 Super Beetle 1600!
That just reminded me to change mine to vac. advance Thanks for the video🇩🇪👍
Thank you 😊😊😊
Ficou ótimo o resultado. Parabéns.
Obrigado, somos grandes fãs do distribuidor SVDA.
Tankz,,sir
VW colour codes - Black is switched live, Red is permanent live, Brown is negative/earth.
Sam, another great video, and driving up Dysart is almost always a pleasure. BTW, did you pronounce Zundfolge a bit off? Maybe it's the German in me and the 3 years of Deutsche Grammar auf Hoch Schule. Sorry, old habits kick in! I think the Pertronix SVDA is a great alternative for those who want a more reliable daily driver, or even the peace of mind with it, on taking our VWs on longer trips, and not having to worry about the old point type distributor.
I’m only 42.8% German (only found out a few months ago as I was a foster kid and finally decided to do a lineage DNA test) and never took German so there’s a 100% chance I mispronounced it!
That's fine.
"Tzoondfolgeh"
Exelente video. Me sorprendiste hablando Español. Saludos
Gracias, sé suficiente español para arreglármelas, un poco. ¡Afortunadamente el traductor de Google hace el resto!
Great video , but didn’t notice mention of 2 spacer washers in dist. shaft -care of centering those carefully before install. (?). Thx
That's because the 2 washers are below the distributor drive gear. It wasn't (and usually isn't) pulled out. We do cover installing the washers in a couple of our videos this one is probably the most clear - ruclips.net/video/IoOp2wpvcQc/видео.html
Cool
👍
I don't know how many people have noticed this.... 1-4-3-2 clockwise is basically 1-2-3-4 anti/counter-clockwise. So you don't need to remember the firing order if you go backwards 😊
I always go anti clockwise when adjusting the valves. That way I can do 1 and 2 then close the valve cover and move over to the other side👍
Question, does the vacume advance have its own regulator ( hole size to limit the movement ). I changed the carburettor and at the same time discovered the vacume advance had failed and replaced the distributor also. Whilst I can now cruise at a reasonable speed, it is lacking the low rev torque it had whilst the vacume advance was broken. Wondering if the vacume pressure ( inlet size ) should be made smaller or some sort of restriction put in it.
There is no regulator, no. The distributor timing may be off which could cause the lack of power down low.
When you set the timing gun to 32° max advance you are looking at the TDC mark on the pulley, correct?
Yes, as the stock pulley doesn't have timing marks, I advance my timing light 32 degrees. Then it flashes at the TDC notch in the pulley.
If you wanted #1 to still be in the original spot, can you lift up the distributor drive gear and turn it to the correct position, and then drop it back down or does something prevent that?
Removing the distributor drive gear can be difficult in some cases and as it sits in two small washers (that act as a bearing of sorts) at the bottom side that could fall off and drop into the engine we don't recommend removing the drive gear in most cases.
I found someone to help with the super beetle. I want to get some parts so we can get started in a couple of weeks. Could you identify exactly which parts I will need to replace the rear calipers with pads and drums including the emergency brake cables and springs etc. (When the calipers were put on the rear, they were not ones that could take the ebrake cables) I will also be getting valve cover gaskets and oil cover gaskets and washers. Can you suggest anything else that would be useful for a tune up? The engine was overhauled about 8k miles ago. Any suggestions for rust prevention products for the underside?
I can try, email pictures to sam@jbugs.com.
Where can I find the tool you used for adjusting the timing?
I use a 25+ year old Snap On Timing light with digital advance. You can probably find something similar at your local auto parts store or online somewhere.
What size/kind of motor is it? Sounds like a strong stock 1600? What parts are not stock? I lke the stock (oil?) air cleaner! Better flow than filters?😉
It is, due to some prior parts testing, we ended up putting a new top end (pistons, cylinders & heads) on the engine so it is super fresh. Other than our replacement 34PICT3 carburetor and the SVDA distributor, it's pretty much all stock.
2 questions: 1) looks like the timing mark at 32 degrees is at the bump out on the case next to the split, rather than the split itself. Is this really where it is supposed to be? I have seen other videos with the same alignment, so I just really am not sure where exactly I am lining up the timing mark. 2) will the dual advance work with a mild performance cam? I am running a 1641 with an Engle 100, and wondering if I can replace my 009.
My trunk lid will not open- I had help and it is really stuck. The picture of the mechanism that I found in the Haynes manual suggests that the advice to cut the handle in half and unscrew the upper and lower parts separately does make some sense. Do you have any thoughts on it?
Yes, if the hood (front) is latched and the hood release cable is not opening or freeing the latch, the only way to open the hood is by cutting through the handle. We use a saw-zall and cut just above the hood handle seal to cut the handle, and the bolts that hold the handle to the catch underneath.
Can you tell met you mean by the hood handle seal? Are you cutting close to the lower or the upper end of the handle? I looked at the picture in the Haynes manual and see two kinds of latches. Once very simple and the bracket on one is veery simple while the other has a catch as well.Also you are not cutting through the hood, right?@@Sam_Mebane
Hello, its possible to change the distributor with SVDA only the electronic ignition module? instead of replacing the whole distributor? Thanks in advance.
It depends on which SVDA distributor you have. They are aftermarket distributors and it is a bit odd nowadays to find one made that doesn't have an electronic ignition.
Which coil will you recommend for the SVDA distributor?
For a Pertronix distributor, I prefer a Pertronix coil to match the recommended Ohm rating of the ignitor module. Ignitor 1 - 3 Ohm coil, Ignitor 2 - .6 Ohm coil, Ignitor 3 - .32 Ohm coil.
@@Sam_Mebane thank you
Since you are in a rather dry climate and I am in a water rich area…that may explain why there are so many more beetles in your area than where I am. What was VW’s thinking about rain coming in the louvres in the lid? After a rain I opened the engine lid and was dumbfounded at the rain drops in there. It seems so odd but I never see it mentioned, should I worry about it?
VW used a "rain catcher" to do just that, under the louvers to catch and divert the water to the drain holes at the bottom. Ideally, make sure that your air cleaner is shielded from water, but on the whole, most of the time a little water in the engine compartment won't hurt anything.
Thanks. In a hard rain I put a sheet of plastic inside and used the lid to hold it in place. I’ll be keeping it covered in the summer too.@@Sam_Mebane
@@Ljblossom just make sure the sheet doesn't completely block the vents, they are there to allow more air into the engine come into the engine compartment for cooling.
It was in the drive.I would not do this if I were driving which will take a couple of fixes to get to. A question. Since the car has the wrong calipers on the rear to have an e brake, which will cost more: changing the calipers or going back to pads and drums? My Prius had its first pad replacement, with no issues, at about 150K miles. I know the parts price difference but don’t know if there is more labor involved in going back to drums. Are there any shops that order from the Ithaca NY area? The one possibility is gone until April.
@@Ljblossom if you can find the necessary parts to go back to drums, used since some of the parts aren't made new, that would be the less expensive option most likely. The hard part about possibly going to a disc brake with a parking brake is that you may have to get a complete new kit. Often times the brackets are completely different and not interchangeable between rear disc brake calipers.
Question I’m running 009 on 2180 stroker would this unit improve my performance?
If your engine has hesitation off of idle while driving, then most likely, yes. You’ll need to make sure that your carburetor/s have a vacuum reference for a vacuum advance distributor. As long as there is one, you can install a SVDA distributor and it should drive much better.
I've been running a SVDA Pertronix on my 2110 with dual Weber IDF carbs.
I've tried vacuum lines from both carbs into a T and one line from one carb into distributor, with and without a vacuum check valve.
I've been thinking of taking it out and putting in centrifugal advance because I can't get rid of the hesitation at around 1500 RPM.
@@goldentrunnell7450 you might check the vacuum with a gauge to make sure that the carbs are pulling enough vacuum (they should, but double check) and also that the diaphragm isn't leaking.
why only mech OR vac advance? most cars use both.
The SVDA has both, it is a Single Vacuum, Dual Advance, explained and illustrated starting at 3:28.
Any links for a decent timing light?
Mine is 20+ years old, I've got no idea!
@@Sam_Mebane Like a dying breed. They’re getting harder to come by.
How about a link to this distributor?
It’s in the video description….
Click “more” and scroll down to see the “Parts used in this video”
@@Sam_Mebanefound it. Thanks!
What are your thoughts on a shepherd crook on the vacuum line? Is it really needed to prevent fuel ruining the canister? Or just grumpy vw dudes on the internet complaining about how that is what the factory would of done?
Can’t say I’ve ever heard of it but the logic is sound. If nothing else just run the line long and above the carb, then down to the vacuum canister if you’re concerned about it.
The Shepard hook is shaped like that ... for a reason ... otherwise .. fluids (fuel or water) gets down and flood the vac can. That will make things sluggish and prone to rotting the diaphragm.
I think it's metal, so vapors would condensate and drip back towards the carb. Imho
So after I set timing to 32 degrees and then add the vacuum hose the total advance goes up to 40. isn’t that much too high?
The vacuum you’re seeing while parked and revving the engine isn’t what the engine will see on the road. Here’s a link to a thread that goes into detail - www.volkszone.com/threads/timing-svda-distributor-slightly-different-q.712848/
Ha, you said "Gudentite"
Absolutely, the official torque spec for any fastener!
Seems a shame that Petronix couldn't color-code their wiring to match what VW uses...I bet a lot of those distributors get fried when people wire them up incorrectly...
Oh, I know it has happened numerous times. As the rest of the automotive industry uses red for positive and black for negative, it seems like it is or was VW that needs to change!