And don’t forget all Volkswagen beetles, use solid, core spark, plug wire the copper core not the carbon wires that are used newer cars with electronic technicians. The carbon wires are for suppression for radios and other things that aren’t needed on a Volkswagen.
You are NOT WRONG about Sleezeball Mechanics. I stopped going to Mechanics and do my own work. Thank you for all them out on this video because this is an epidemic here in California especially for classic air-cooled VW's. They are all crooks in my area. PS. Originally from Houston too (Sugarland area).
Diggin your videos Chris! Just bought a '68 Ghia so I'm learning a lot from these videos. And BTW, personally, I like the "noises"! ...good teaching aid!
You have a massive cooling problem with no heater hoses. Either put them back on or pull a tennis ball in the holes. One problem with the charging system is your v belt is too loose. A loose belt will also affect the cooling system as the fan which is attached to the generator will turn slower because the belt will slips. Motor sounds good.
Great video dude. I want to whare some stuff with you. Non resistive plugs and noon resistive wires. Probably you had pressure lossing ln heads. Also check your mass (ground) cable from gear box to the chassis to acoid coul overheating and electronic system burning. Also a vacuum leak ln horns-to-intake can be helped by installing aluminum tape (fridge aluminum tape) below horns. Exhaust to intake fuel heater should be able to lett pass through exhaust gases.
Great Vid mate. Got a similar problem as the spark plugs are all sooted up and it's started reving when idle so will try replace all 4 plugs with Bosch Spark Plugs.
Great video. I have a 1973 baja bug here I just got ahold of. Looking at vids that will help me keep the air cooled engine running better and not bail to ecotec conversion like i did on my last dunebuggy. Though subaru has me tempted. Either way, if i can learn to maintain the aircooled, it will save me lots of $ :3 Thanks for sharing knowledge! It is greatly appreciated.
You may be right about the Compufire module , although I use it and really has been solid reliable with city driving not sure bout freeways. Its spark produces intense burn and better mileage.
You probably know already that the engine is missing its all important rear cover tin and No 1 cylinder heat deflector. Also there should be air hoses from fan housing to the heat exchangers. If these have been replaced with J tubes, cap the fan housing outlets and holes in the rear cover tin with metal caps. Engine will overheat without those tins.
thanks for that info.. I know I have the big one out.. but I didn’t know about #1 heat deflector.. I still have to do a valve adjustment and go through that stuff.. I am new to beetles please let me know what ever I’m doing or getting wrong
Mine was running rough as the float in the carb had gotten stuck at the top so it wasn’t letting enough fuel flow through. Would idle okay but misfired badly when trying to drive it
All volkswagens when you first start them up the light for the Alternator comes on this is normal! But once you raise the RPM's up it goes off! I am not positive but a little more juice may be! I am working on my 1963 Vw custom Notchback now. It is weird, I start it every so often, 2 charge my batteries cause it has 2 of them so it charges both of them! After about 5 minutes of idle i will goose it 2 or 3 times and it bogs then dies but not all of the time! What do U think? Thanks JOE!
a generator does not have to be excited.. it turned out the brushes on mine were just dirty from the car not being running for X amount of time.. it starts up now and the light goes off. i am new to beetles but i have been messing with cars for 20 years.. on all my other cars you always put an alternator on but they are a big job on a beetle.... i did buy an alternator for it but the gen has been working perfect since i made this video.. as far as the bogging you just have to take the carb off and clean it 100% my bogs have always been accelerator pumps that were bad
Your engine is probably overheating because the metal shrouds and gasket seals are missing allowing the heat from the exhaust to rise up into your engine compartment and recycle instead of cool exterior air!
who said it was overheating? the reason I haven’t addressed that is because it has not overheated.. I have a hot oil dipstick that I calibrated to perfection
@@chriscraft77022 I didn’t, I said maybe… I am not a vw pro but from every channel Ive ever watched, they all say that you must have the engine compartment sealed off very well to prevent overheating. I was just suggesting that.
wish you were closer to where I live its hard to find anyone that knows about these Bugs. I just paid $430 to an old guy to put an alternator on the next week he died and so did the alternator had to buy another on didnt know where he got the other one. I am in Ohio
Try checking the brushes in the generator. You can put new brushes in them and save you some money perhaps. Also take some compressed air and blow the generator out. Make sure the springs are holding the brushes down
@@chriscraft77022 it also looks like your generator belt is a LITTLE floppy which means it won't turn the generator as consistently and therefore generate less volts / amps. (Not an electrician lol) Remove one shim at a time between the generator pulley halves to tighten it, just not TIGHT tight. Just tighter than it is now.
Had the same problem. changed the plugs and it went away......but it's started to come back again now after a few weeks. Hesitates when you put you foot down at low RPM. Am wondering whether to change the coil
Have a 1776cc 1963 beetle 🪲 with dual Empi Hpmx setup...OK for as long as I've had it and all of a sudden, it's idling way higher than usual.. what should I trouble shoot to resolve issue ? Any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated..
If you are not changing the coil and still using the regular coil with the electronic module stay with .028” spark plug gap. The engine compartment needs the back tin to be completely isolated from the bottom; otherwise expelled hot air is recirculated into the engine compartment which will make the fan suck hot air instead of fresh and thus overheat the motor.
you are so right about the gap.. glad you reminded me.. I learned that .028" is as big as you go.. (researching later electronic ignition VWs) i will make an update video but it seems the humidity has the greatest impact on the way the car runs.. i have had NO NO NONE overheating issues but i am going to fix the tin issues.. thank you and please comment whatever you want you will not offend me.. i am new to beetles..
@@vayabroder729 im chevy guy that bought my first 72 beetle in august 2023.. i love them so much.. i have very high horsepower cars but there is something about that air cooled engine sound I FELL IN LOVE WITH
I don't think the 5° ATDC is correct. (It was correct for a stock 1600 DP engine using a DUAL vacuum advance distributor; most of those emission control dizzies are in the junkyard these days.) Timing should be set at the same specs for an 009 distributor, removing the single advance vacuum hose and blocking the port until the timing is complete. Time for 28 - 32° BTDC (whatever the car's "happy spot" seems to be) and don't worry about where the idle timing falls. Reattach the vacuum hose and you "should" be good to go.
next time I mess with it I’m going to try that. I just got the car and I’m a Chevy guy so I don’t know anything about it. that does make sense because the car seems way too slow and it never gets hot
@@chriscraft77022 The other things to look at (that people have mentioned in these posts) is the lack of the tinware in the engine compartment and having the heater hose outlets blocked on the fan shroud. The tinware keeps the engine compartment separated from the cylinder heads. Fresh air comes in through the vents on the rear of the bug, sucked into the fan shroud and then blown over the cylinders. The hot air then exits underneath and to the rear of the car. The tinware keeps the hot air from entering back into the engine compartment and getting sucked through the fan, blowing hot air onto the cylinders. Blocking off the heater hose outlets (the two projections from either side of the fan shroud) will keep ALL the air that's needed for cooling the cylinders going to the cylinders, and not just blowing into the engine compartment.
Those plugs are too short. There should be twice as many threads. I learned this the hard way. After i installed the BOSCH plugs for my beetle it literally doubled in power. It runs like a bat out of hell now. True, your beetle has had other problems to find and fix, but make sure the parts counter guy doesn't sell you the wrong plugs like he did to me. My bad. I did not verify i was sold the right plugs for my beetle.
@@GTE_Channel Absolutely. I had a Mexican 1600 DP that allowed for 3/4" plug depth. I've got a "new" engine now, and the heads only allow for 1/2" plugs. One size does NOT fit all!
And don’t forget all Volkswagen beetles, use solid, core spark, plug wire the copper core not the carbon wires that are used newer cars with electronic technicians. The carbon wires are for suppression for radios and other things that aren’t needed on a Volkswagen.
You are NOT WRONG about Sleezeball Mechanics. I stopped going to Mechanics and do my own work. Thank you for all them out on this video because this is an epidemic here in California especially for classic air-cooled VW's. They are all crooks in my area. PS. Originally from Houston too (Sugarland area).
Best plugs I’ve found for these, NGK BP 6 HS, hands down.
Diggin your videos Chris!
Just bought a '68 Ghia so I'm learning a lot from these videos.
And BTW, personally, I like the "noises"! ...good teaching aid!
You have a massive cooling problem with no heater hoses. Either put them back on or pull a tennis ball in the holes. One problem with the charging system is your v belt is too loose. A loose belt will also affect the cooling system as the fan which is attached to the generator will turn slower because the belt will slips. Motor sounds good.
Great video dude. I want to whare some stuff with you.
Non resistive plugs and noon resistive wires. Probably you had pressure lossing ln heads. Also check your mass (ground) cable from gear box to the chassis to acoid coul overheating and electronic system burning.
Also a vacuum leak ln horns-to-intake can be helped by installing aluminum tape (fridge aluminum tape) below horns.
Exhaust to intake fuel heater should be able to lett pass through exhaust gases.
Before condemning the Dynamo/Generator change the cooper brushes even put a fresh belt on and shim out to adjust could be a loose belt
it started working and has been.. I seen the brushes on rock auto cheap.. thanks
Great Vid mate. Got a similar problem as the spark plugs are all sooted up and it's started reving when idle so will try replace all 4 plugs with Bosch Spark Plugs.
Great video. I have a 1973 baja bug here I just got ahold of. Looking at vids that will help me keep the air cooled engine running better and not bail to ecotec conversion like i did on my last dunebuggy. Though subaru has me tempted. Either way, if i can learn to maintain the aircooled, it will save me lots of $ :3 Thanks for sharing knowledge! It is greatly appreciated.
You may be right about the Compufire module , although I use it and really has been solid reliable with city driving not sure bout freeways. Its spark produces intense burn and better mileage.
You probably know already that the engine is missing its all important rear cover tin and No 1 cylinder heat deflector. Also there should be air hoses from fan housing to the heat exchangers. If these have been replaced with J tubes, cap the fan housing outlets and holes in the rear cover tin with metal caps. Engine will overheat without those tins.
thanks for that info.. I know I have the big one out.. but I didn’t know about #1 heat deflector.. I still have to do a valve adjustment and go through that stuff.. I am new to beetles please let me know what ever I’m doing or getting wrong
@@chriscraft77022 The late John Muir wrote a book called "How to keep your Volkswagen alive". I really like it, there's a lot of good info in there.
Ah man, you had me cr-cr-cr- cracking up!!!
He makes some good “points
Mine was running rough as the float in the carb had gotten stuck at the top so it wasn’t letting enough fuel flow through. Would idle okay but misfired badly when trying to drive it
Man, what a mess. That engine has some basic issues, but all very important to run correctly.
All volkswagens when you first start them up the light for the Alternator comes on this is normal! But once you raise the RPM's up it goes off! I am not positive but a little more juice may be! I am working on my 1963 Vw custom Notchback now. It is weird, I start it every so often, 2 charge my batteries cause it has 2 of them so it charges both of them! After about 5 minutes of idle i will goose it 2 or 3 times and it bogs then dies but not all of the time! What do U think?
Thanks JOE!
a generator does not have to be excited.. it turned out the brushes on mine were just dirty from the car not being running for X amount of time.. it starts up now and the light goes off. i am new to beetles but i have been messing with cars for 20 years.. on all my other cars you always put an alternator on but they are a big job on a beetle.... i did buy an alternator for it but the gen has been working perfect since i made this video.. as far as the bogging you just have to take the carb off and clean it 100% my bogs have always been accelerator pumps that were bad
Your engine is probably overheating because the metal shrouds and gasket seals are missing allowing the heat from the exhaust to rise up into your engine compartment and recycle instead of cool exterior air!
who said it was overheating? the reason I haven’t addressed that is because it has not overheated.. I have a hot oil dipstick that I calibrated to perfection
@@chriscraft77022 I didn’t, I said maybe… I am not a vw pro but from every channel Ive ever watched, they all say that you must have the engine compartment sealed off very well to prevent overheating. I was just suggesting that.
@@bobsbarnworkshop I’ve ran that thing all around town and the engine never got over 140 Fahrenheit…
thank you man for all this info im going to watch it a few times
wish you were closer to where I live its hard to find anyone that knows about these Bugs. I just paid $430 to an old guy to put an alternator on the next week he died and so did the alternator had to buy another on didnt know where he got the other one. I am in Ohio
Where did you get the spec for spark plug gaps for electronic ignition and what is the logic for making the gap larger?
Try checking the brushes in the generator. You can put new brushes in them and save you some money perhaps. Also take some compressed air and blow the generator out. Make sure the springs are holding the brushes down
I’m guessing the brushes were dirty because it has been working perfect since the video..
@@chriscraft77022 it also looks like your generator belt is a LITTLE floppy which means it won't turn the generator as consistently and therefore generate less volts / amps. (Not an electrician lol) Remove one shim at a time between the generator pulley halves to tighten it, just not TIGHT tight. Just tighter than it is now.
Had the same problem. changed the plugs and it went away......but it's started to come back again now after a few weeks. Hesitates when you put you foot down at low RPM. Am wondering whether to change the coil
I’ve noticed humidity affects my beetle.. I think you just need to drive it everyday and put a load on the engine and that crap will go away
Have a 1776cc 1963 beetle 🪲 with dual Empi Hpmx setup...OK for as long as I've had it and all of a sudden, it's idling way higher than usual.. what should I trouble shoot to resolve issue ? Any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated..
fast idle is vacuum leak. check those boots from carb to heads. One of mine was loose
If you are not changing the coil and still using the regular coil with the electronic module stay with .028” spark plug gap. The engine compartment needs the back tin to be completely isolated from the bottom; otherwise expelled hot air is recirculated into the engine compartment which will make the fan suck hot air instead of fresh and thus overheat the motor.
you are so right about the gap.. glad you reminded me.. I learned that .028" is as big as you go.. (researching later electronic ignition VWs) i will make an update video but it seems the humidity has the greatest impact on the way the car runs.. i have had NO NO NONE overheating issues but i am going to fix the tin issues.. thank you and please comment whatever you want you will not offend me.. i am new to beetles..
@@chriscraft77022 Sure thing sir; I’ve been working on them since 1979. 😉
@@vayabroder729 im chevy guy that bought my first 72 beetle in august 2023.. i love them so much.. i have very high horsepower cars but there is something about that air cooled engine sound I FELL IN LOVE WITH
@@chriscraft77022 I’m a car guy so I love American cars too; I especially like the ‘59 Chevys.
@@vayabroder729 why no videos? you seem to be very intelligent
You can service them without taking the generator off the car. The plastic cover on top snaps off...
I have hard time identifying that red rotor head in the distributor . Anyone know the part number ?
I don't think the 5° ATDC is correct. (It was correct for a stock 1600 DP engine using a DUAL vacuum advance distributor; most of those emission control dizzies are in the junkyard these days.) Timing should be set at the same specs for an 009 distributor, removing the single advance vacuum hose and blocking the port until the timing is complete. Time for 28 - 32° BTDC (whatever the car's "happy spot" seems to be) and don't worry about where the idle timing falls. Reattach the vacuum hose and you "should" be good to go.
next time I mess with it I’m going to try that. I just got the car and I’m a Chevy guy so I don’t know anything about it. that does make sense because the car seems way too slow and it never gets hot
@@chriscraft77022 The other things to look at (that people have mentioned in these posts) is the lack of the tinware in the engine compartment and having the heater hose outlets blocked on the fan shroud. The tinware keeps the engine compartment separated from the cylinder heads. Fresh air comes in through the vents on the rear of the bug, sucked into the fan shroud and then blown over the cylinders. The hot air then exits underneath and to the rear of the car. The tinware keeps the hot air from entering back into the engine compartment and getting sucked through the fan, blowing hot air onto the cylinders. Blocking off the heater hose outlets (the two projections from either side of the fan shroud) will keep ALL the air that's needed for cooling the cylinders going to the cylinders, and not just blowing into the engine compartment.
I have all that stuff I just never put it on because the car never got over 175 F
Bosh plug run better than ngk in my 72. Tried both brand new .
Check voltage regulator behind drive seat and ground straps for transmission and battery if Gen light is on a bunch
Those plugs are too short. There should be twice as many threads. I learned this the hard way. After i installed the BOSCH plugs for my beetle it literally doubled in power. It runs like a bat out of hell now. True, your beetle has had other problems to find and fix, but make sure the parts counter guy doesn't sell you the wrong plugs like he did to me. My bad. I did not verify i was sold the right plugs for my beetle.
I'm pretty sure that you have heads that run long plugs and heads that run short plugs
@@GTE_Channel Absolutely. I had a Mexican 1600 DP that allowed for 3/4" plug depth. I've got a "new" engine now, and the heads only allow for 1/2" plugs. One size does NOT fit all!
VR is in need of checking. that. and the gen brushes is all needs to be done.
or spend the 400 bucks and re-wire the whole thing. lmao. easy.
Once i loosin my plugs i put a rubber hose on end of the plug and turn
If you do such a good job. You should have turn the coil around
mine vw running rough
Labor of love
It’s alive
I need my 73 super Beetle fixed the right way. I’m in Denton Tx. Anybody ? Mine shakes n backfires.
mine did too.. that’s why I made the video
Take off your Crockes and
Pull up your socks