I had the same experience with the Throttle Return Spring. It was too weak. I replaced it with a spare, from the same vender and the package was labeled the same. It was a much stronger spring and the problem was solved. Parts can be hit or miss, these days.
1/4 turn out on the throttle-arm screw. This turning in idea is basesd on a mis-translation from the German shop manual, when the 34PICT-3 came out. But, the throttle arm screw is used to adjust the idle on the 30 pict series carbs.
Bentley factory service manual is The Bible for these cars. Now ready to cruise just in time for Fall. Maybe go for a nice long trip and take us along on video!
Thanks, I like those trikes. There was a time I almost got one in a purchase deal with another car , but the gentlemen changed his mind and gave it to his son to restore. In our last volksfest we had a few ones , and I know for sure one won to 50 picks; but they all left before the handling of the awards. Thanks or the feedback.
Hi great video and running a 74 1200 I'm always watching info video's One thing your fuel filter is between the pump and carb I think ! I saw someone say it should be before the pump because they can split under pressure , any you got a new subscriber cheers Tim
Good day, thank for your comments. At the time I did this video I had an additional filter connected in the outlet let between the carb and the pump. I removed it. Actually my permanent filter is installed immediately after the fuel line exists the tunnel outside from the engine compartment.
Where can you buy that screw at 6:08 minute mark. Have a 1974 VW Bug and screw missing or fell out so need to keep foot on gas pedal to not konk out. Order from Jbugs one but does not screw in and dies not have thin tip you have on yours.
Maybe I missed an explanation to do with your oil pressure gauge, but I am curious to know why the low oil pressure warning light in the dash is staying on. Thanks.
Good question! , I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed and when I wired it for some odd reason the light came on , but the aftermarket gauge is reading pressure alright. I think it’s a la a result of a jumper I used and the group polarity do the OEM dummy light va the aftermarket gauge. That has been correct since.
Im loving those three gauges and ive been looking for these 3: RPM, Voltmeter, oil PSI & oil Temp. Can you pls advise the brand or a link to those? Thx
Depends on the application, but I would tell you my experience has been is always better with va it advance, I have an electronic vacuum advance distributor. Purchased it at CIP 1
For now am good with how Sunny looks and is performing. Things I know I am going to change; the carb; I am swapping it for an original solex; I have a couple and I am going to refurbish them. Inside the car I am going to change the interior side panels for the original stripe line ones but I the same current tan color. I cannot think of anything else I would change…lol… I guess now I am going to focus on restoring Frankenstein. I have received a few donations from the Volkswagen community and I have a few part myself that I may use and other I could sale to make road worthy. Thanks for always sharing your feedback. I really appreciated.
After I performed all the steps it was as just a matter of micro turns. These are the instructions initial adjustments process. To adjust idle (34 PICT-3): 1. Clean and regap or replace the spark plugs as necessary. Make certain that valve clearances, ignition dwell angle, and ignition timing are correct. 2. Replace the oil dipstick with a thermometer to measure the oil temperature. 3. Start the engine and run it until the oil temperature reaches 50° to 70°C (122° to 158°F). Check to make sure that the automatic choke if fully open, then stop the engine. 4. Turn the throttle valve adjustment out until there is clearance between its tip and the fast idle cam. Then turn the throttle valve adjusting screw in until it just touches the fast idle cam. 5. From this position, turn the throttle valve adjusting screw in an additional one-quarter turn. 6. Slowly turn the volume control screw in until it comes to a stop, and then turn it back 2½ to 3 complete turns. 7. Connect a dwell meter/tachometer to the ignition system and start the engine. 8. By turning the bypass screw, adjust the idle speed to 800 to 900 rpm. 9. By turning the volume control screw, adjust to the fastest obtainable idle. Then turn the volume control screw slowly clockwise until the engine speed drops by 20 to 30 rpm. 10. By turning the bypass screw, reset the idle to 800 to 900 rpm.
On the 34 PICT 3 after I set my adjustment on the throttle volume adjustment, the volume control screw settings to where they need to be , the. I slowly adjust the the bypass screw until my thacomehter reads 800 to 900 RPM. I hope this helps. I am always reading different tech books and the may vary a little from one to another. But one I really like is the Volkswagen service manual for super beetle , beetles & Karmann ghia 1970 to 1079 from the Bentley Publishers. I purchased mine in Amazon.
I swapped to an electronic advance ignition. I can check my records to see if I have the original order and share with you the information. It works so much better with this one than the 009 I had before.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 yeah cool I would appreciate that because you’re right the 009 I think they were called flame throwers. I got 3 of them and all died and therefore kept with the points unit, they didn’t let you down.
I purchased a SVDA vacuum advance distributor. Watch my video on this link … RUclips.be/khTNhJVYa74 … ( I tilted the video 1971 VW Sup Beetle SVDA Distributor and valve clearance check.
Also if you do want to go that route, using a electronic ignition requires the correct coil combo… I suggest also watching this video from Dune buggy warehouse… Youtu.be/2T6Sali_flM… important details about how many ohms it should be in order for your SVDA to work well
Hey friend, any aftermarket ones will work. Just browse around and find the size and style you like. After I get mine running, it's on my short list of upgrades.
1970 to 74 came with a Solex 34 pict 3 , if your engine is all stock ; you shop be fine with the 34 pict 3. If you want your car to gain a little more power you can always set up a dual carb system. That is a personal choice and also matters how you build your engine.
Jeff at the time this was recorded I didn’t have proper recording equipment. However I can assure you the engine is running super well. Thank you for watching.
The carb I have is a Chinese clone and the main jet 60 idle x 130 main side 100z / 120z, but OEM Solex configuration is size 55 idle, size X127. 5 main, and size 100Z-120Z air correction jets. . The OEM I just restored, and will be sharing the swap in my next video currently has this configuration size 55 idle, size X127. 5 main, and size 100Z-120Z air correction jets.
I wonder if you might have any immediate reaction to this short video of my '71 Super having trouble starting? ruclips.net/video/-vKsZh2eXZo/видео.html The previous owner had installed a carb that had an unfamiliar adjustment on it and it was running rough, so I swapped it out with a standard 34PICT-3 that had been included with the sale. After the swap, the car started up and was running okay, but when I tried to drive it the engine whimpered out. Subsequent attempts to start have all been as shown in the video. I have adjusted the auto choke, put the volume controls into standard settings, and set the fast idle adjuster to the throttle camber as described in every video I have seen. But it keeps doing the same thing and just won't stay running. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. The link again is: ruclips.net/video/-vKsZh2eXZo/видео.html
Hi there Junior from classic vw bugs. When you swapped the carb did you make sure your static time was correct? It sounds like the timing is off. If your engine timing is off, your vehicle may run poorly or not at all. This can cause your engine to stall or run rough. I would start there. Then I would clean the carb before reinstalling it. That is what would do if I was having that issue.
Nothing rubbing in the fan shroud. It may a video sound quality issue. The car has been performing so good after making these advertisement in the carb. Thank you for your comments.
Coooool, we exported 34 pict 3 carburetor same qulaity as EMPI,only bulk order, no retail.
thank U for explaining exactly how from the beginning... 5 videos later and U tell me how... Thank U!!!
Great Video, Great Tips, You made it seem easy... 👍👍👍👍👍
I had the same experience with the Throttle Return Spring. It was too weak. I replaced it with a spare, from the same vender and the package was labeled the same. It was a much stronger spring and the problem was solved. Parts can be hit or miss, these days.
Thanks for the tuning tips
GREAT instruction!
1/4 turn out on the throttle-arm screw.
This turning in idea is basesd on a mis-translation from the German shop manual, when the 34PICT-3 came out.
But, the throttle arm screw is used to adjust the idle on the 30 pict series carbs.
Bentley factory service manual is The Bible for these cars. Now ready to cruise just in time for Fall. Maybe go for a nice long trip and take us along on video!
Here,here!!
Here,here!!
Thanks, will do😊
Thanks Man. Good Vid. I have a 73 VW Custom Trike W/ 1600 d port.
Thanks, I like those trikes. There was a time I almost got one in a purchase deal with another car , but the gentlemen changed his mind and gave it to his son to restore. In our last volksfest we had a few ones , and I know for sure one won to 50 picks; but they all left before the handling of the awards. Thanks or the feedback.
I've got a California Customs trike, that's why I'm watching this video, having a little carb adjustment issues.
Hi there thanks for watching my video as well as for the feedback. I hope you are able to tune the. Carburetor.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 I did. As soon as I was done watching I went out and followed your tips and it runs great 👍 thanks again 😊
can u do a video how you install the RPM, Voltage and oil pressure gauges thks !
generally speaking, the Chinese repops are actually pretty much plug and play anymore. Old bug guys just know how they like to set the idle
Good explanation! Some like their idle low, which is not good on a air cooled engine, very well done!
Thanks brother. I hope all is well with you. I see the new project is moving forward fast.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 It’s getting there brother, lots to do of course. I’m kind of in the starting stages. It has been so hot out it’s ridiculous.
Yes here the heat is crazy, I have been working the yard banks and spreading mulch… honey to do lists…😂
Why isn't that good for a aircooled engine? 😄
@@timhietbrink6049 a mechanic once said to me that Less rpm = slower fan = more heat
Great video! Been looking for a good step by step video! You made it super easy! Thanks for the video! Keep up the great work!
Hi great video and running a 74 1200 I'm always watching info video's
One thing your fuel filter is between the pump and carb I think ! I saw someone say it should be before the pump because they can split under pressure , any you got a new subscriber cheers Tim
Good day, thank for your comments. At the time I did this video I had an additional filter connected in the outlet let between the carb and the pump. I removed it. Actually my permanent filter is installed immediately after the fuel line exists the tunnel outside from the engine compartment.
Where can you buy that screw at 6:08 minute mark. Have a 1974 VW Bug and screw missing or fell out so need to keep foot on gas pedal to not konk out. Order from Jbugs one but does not screw in and dies not have thin tip you have on yours.
Maybe I missed an explanation to do with your oil pressure gauge, but I am curious to know why the low oil pressure warning light in the dash is staying on. Thanks.
Good question! , I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed and when I wired it for some odd reason the light came on , but the aftermarket gauge is reading pressure alright. I think it’s a la a result of a jumper I used and the group polarity do the OEM dummy light va the aftermarket gauge. That has been correct since.
Great video. Thanks. Please take that fuel filter out of the engine bay and relocate behind the firewall. Recommend using a metal one too.
Interesting, is your voltage regulator good?
I did move it a while back. Thanks for watching
Im loving those three gauges and ive been looking for these 3: RPM, Voltmeter, oil PSI & oil Temp. Can you pls advise the brand or a link to those? Thx
Dyno Racing… found them in eBay
VDO gauges
Where did you source the stronger spring please? The one in my kit is as weak as a kitten… thanks
Autozone
Good info
That’s an awesome gauge setup. Where did you get that from
What is the size of jets in the carb you’re using? main and idle.
And what distributor? is it better without the vacum?
Depends on the application, but I would tell you my experience has been is always better with va it advance, I have an electronic vacuum advance distributor. Purchased it at CIP 1
What is the thread size of the fast idle screw? I need to order one.
I don’t remember, however you can order them from JBugs or CIP 1 per your carb specs . Example if you carb is a 34 pict 3, etc
Thanks for the info!
So would you say Sunny is now completed? Is there anything you would change?
For now am good with how Sunny looks and is performing. Things I know I am going to change; the carb; I am swapping it for an original solex; I have a couple and I am going to refurbish them. Inside the car I am going to change the interior side panels for the original stripe line ones but I the same current tan color. I cannot think of anything else I would change…lol…
I guess now I am going to focus on restoring Frankenstein. I have received a few donations from the Volkswagen community and I have a few part myself that I may use and other I could sale to make road worthy. Thanks for always sharing your feedback. I really appreciated.
How many turns did u do to have it just right jw
After I performed all the steps it was as just a matter of micro turns. These are the instructions initial adjustments process.
To adjust idle (34 PICT-3):
1. Clean and regap or replace the spark plugs as necessary. Make certain that valve clearances, ignition dwell angle, and ignition timing are correct.
2. Replace the oil dipstick with a thermometer to measure the oil temperature.
3. Start the engine and run it until the oil temperature reaches 50° to 70°C (122° to 158°F). Check to make sure that the automatic choke if fully open, then stop the engine.
4. Turn the throttle valve adjustment out until there is clearance between its tip and the fast idle cam.
Then turn the throttle valve adjusting screw in until it just touches the fast idle cam.
5. From this position, turn the throttle valve adjusting screw in an additional one-quarter turn.
6. Slowly turn the volume control screw in until it comes to a stop, and then turn it back 2½ to 3 complete turns.
7. Connect a dwell meter/tachometer to the ignition system and start the engine.
8. By turning the bypass screw, adjust the idle speed to 800 to 900 rpm.
9. By turning the volume control screw, adjust to the fastest obtainable idle. Then turn the volume control screw slowly clockwise until the engine speed drops by 20 to 30 rpm.
10. By turning the bypass screw, reset the idle to 800 to 900 rpm.
Hi mate , what would be the base starting point for the bigger bypass screw ? You said smaller one was 2.5-3turns out from seat
On the 34 PICT 3 after I set my adjustment on the throttle volume adjustment, the volume control screw settings to where they need to be , the. I slowly adjust the the bypass screw until my thacomehter reads 800 to 900 RPM. I hope this helps. I am always reading different tech books and the may vary a little from one to another. But one I really like is the Volkswagen service manual for super beetle , beetles & Karmann ghia 1970 to 1079 from the Bentley Publishers. I purchased mine in Amazon.
I had a similar ticking noise in the engine. A couple of weeks later and lost oil from crankshaft seal poly. Too much play on the crankshaft.
Sounds like it needs a valve adjustment.
Cool thanks buddy, interested to know what distributor have you thanks
I swapped to an electronic advance ignition. I can check my records to see if I have the original order and share with you the information. It works so much better with this one than the 009 I had before.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 yeah cool I would appreciate that because you’re right the 009 I think they were called flame throwers. I got 3 of them and all died and therefore kept with the points unit, they didn’t let you down.
I purchased a SVDA vacuum advance distributor. Watch my video on this link … RUclips.be/khTNhJVYa74 … ( I tilted the video 1971 VW Sup Beetle SVDA Distributor and valve clearance check.
Also if you do want to go that route, using a electronic ignition requires the correct coil combo… I suggest also watching this video from Dune buggy warehouse… Youtu.be/2T6Sali_flM… important details about how many ohms it should be in order for your SVDA to work well
hi mate, where to buy the rpm, oil pressure and voltage gauges ? thanks !
Hey friend, any aftermarket ones will work. Just browse around and find the size and style you like. After I get mine running, it's on my short list of upgrades.
Where can i get a new spring?
Jbug, CIP1, VDubs, west cost metric, eBay, Amazon
Is 34 pict-3 or 4 better for 73beetle 1600
1970 to 74 came with a Solex 34 pict 3 , if your engine is all stock ; you shop be fine with the 34 pict 3. If you want your car to gain a little more power you can always set up a dual carb system. That is a personal choice and also matters how you build your engine.
Really needs a valve adjustment fast, shouldn't sound like it's a rattle machine
Jeff at the time this was recorded I didn’t have proper recording equipment. However I can assure you the engine is running super well. Thank you for watching.
Magnifique le filtre à air ou acheter ??
que veux-tu dire?
What’s the main jet size
The carb I have is a Chinese clone and the main jet 60 idle x 130 main side 100z / 120z, but OEM Solex configuration is size 55 idle, size X127. 5 main, and size 100Z-120Z air correction jets. . The OEM I just restored, and will be sharing the swap in my next video currently has this configuration size 55 idle, size X127. 5 main, and size 100Z-120Z air correction jets.
I wonder if you might have any immediate reaction to this short video of my '71 Super having trouble starting? ruclips.net/video/-vKsZh2eXZo/видео.html The previous owner had installed a carb that had an unfamiliar adjustment on it and it was running rough, so I swapped it out with a standard 34PICT-3 that had been included with the sale. After the swap, the car started up and was running okay, but when I tried to drive it the engine whimpered out. Subsequent attempts to start have all been as shown in the video. I have adjusted the auto choke, put the volume controls into standard settings, and set the fast idle adjuster to the throttle camber as described in every video I have seen. But it keeps doing the same thing and just won't stay running. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. The link again is: ruclips.net/video/-vKsZh2eXZo/видео.html
Maxbtribble: sounds like a plug wire maybe in the wrong place
Hi there Junior from classic vw bugs. When you swapped the carb did you make sure your static time was correct? It sounds like the timing is off. If your engine timing is off, your vehicle may run poorly or not at all. This can cause your engine to stall or run rough. I would start there. Then I would clean the carb before reinstalling it. That is what would do if I was having that issue.
Are you from Sir?
What?
Your alternator pully looks loose maybe need some more outer shims easy fix
Is all good it maybe a video quality issue. The car has been working well since I did the adjustment. Thank you for your comments
1:46 1:48
Doesn't sound any different from the beginning, sounds like something is knocking or rubbing in the fan shroud
Nothing rubbing in the fan shroud. It may a video sound quality issue. The car has been performing so good after making these advertisement in the carb. Thank you for your comments.
Bro! please be careful to not get your hair stuck in the belt when the engine is running! Could be a disaster!
Right! If hair is caught, it'll also pull off the scalp the hair's attached to in a microsecond.
Get to the point dude !
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