you all probably dont care at all but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow forgot my password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Kason Dario Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
id been looking for videos about vw carburators as to how to clean them and etc. so far, your the only one here i found who explains it very well. thumbs up for you sir!
Sir, I would like to thank you for making this video. I used your advice and tuned my little Chinese knock-off carburetor as you said and it runs so amazing. I made the mistake many have with trying to use the idle screw on the linkage. Now it runs perfect. Not only does it not flood itself after I shut it off, but I actually feel the progression ports kick in! Thank you again!
Excellent video, very helpful. Just for extra info: I had an off idle hesitation/stumble on a Solex 34 pic-3 that I just could not seem to fix. Nothing I did seemed to make a difference. What was even more frustrating is it seemed to "fix its self" in the summer months only to come back as soon as the temp dropped below 55 deg. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the choke element, almost gave up and bought a new carb. It ended up being a completely plugged manifold heat riser tube. Clearing that out and then following the adjustment procedure in this video made a 100% improvement. Thank you!!!
I was a VW mechanic in the 60's and again for a while in the late 70's and I forgot more than I am able to remember. I recently scored a VW trike with a '72 engine. Thanks for the refresher, it seems to be coming back a little at a time (with your help)..
You just gained a new subscriber! I learned more in this video than the last 50 Vdub videos I've watched! Very well explained and intuitive. Thanks for the video, I'll be watching this one a few times. Maybe I can get the old Glitterbug sportsman running like a champ!
Hi from Germany! They started on rebuilding the 34 pict 3‘s over here to 37 and 39 mm butterflys, changing the venturis if wanted to larger ones and of course changing the jets. Runs absolutely fantastic on 1679 to 1915 cc engines. No more space problems with duals in beetles, no synchronizing, stock airfilter and looks but very good torque from idle up. You should try these ones out on Valery ! You will never again spend money on Webers or Dellortos Bjoern from Germany
Was thinking about enlargement and wondering at what point the intake manifold would become a problem with those larger venturi's. It would also need plenty of heat on that manifold.
TheEZGZ Here is what I did and why: trying to get some more torque and hp out of my 1969 1500 singleport Karmann-Ghia coupe without touching or opening the crankcase because of matching numbers and so on and without changing the look of the engine: Replaced pistons and cylinders to 88 mm AA Performance slippers, 044 heads with 40 mm intake and 35.5 mm outtake valves, compression ratio was 8,25:1, stock heater boxes, stock exaust, 1.25:1 ratio rocker arms. Result on dyno: 79 hp @ wheels and 144 NM of torque, gps measured real top speed on highway was 161 km/h with stock gearbox - incredible to me. But I kept on doing some more: Some work on the ports plus polishing, compression ratio up to 8.6:1, heater boxes with also 35.5 mm diameter, 123 Electronic ignition
TheEZGZ But still haven‘t been on the dyno again but sounds and feels stronger and of course even faster. Tryed out my solid shaft 1.4:1 rocker arms finally after lying around my garage for years...Never dared to shorten pushrods, but finally did. Torque torque torque...😎
Thank you. I'm currently learning about this. Just got my PICT 3 carb cleaned/rebuilt. Ran fine for 1 day & then stalled out at the stop sign when put in neutral. The shop adjusted it to 1200rpm. My friend and I played around with the choke a bit. It felt like ran fast (engine) abit but when it didn't stall for one day but felt the rate of engine idle decrease but not stall at a stop. Took it out today but then stalled out again- same thing. Tried to accelerate in first but then started to stall out again. Thanks for the interesting video. Got the 74 beetle from family- driven during summers and stored during winters for almost 10 yrs.
Some times one cleaning and rebuild isn't enough. You may have to check and reclean to get the specs right. When you get the fuel and air screw just where you like it you might want to turn out the fuel screw 1/4 turn out to richen it up.
I have to thank you for making a clear and concise explanation of the 34PICT-3. The best part was your explaining of that chock idle screw. I have been trying to get my 72 running without that dang flat spot. Everything I read was make contact then turn in another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I will follow your way and hopefully make my bug run right, this 75 year old thanks you. P.S. I have washed gas for many years to get rid that Ethanol, finally I can get pure gas 15 miles away.
Thanks for this! I have this carb on my ‘66, and it’s my second carbed car (first was a ‘33 chevy). i had no idea what all the things were. The chevy was much simpler 😜 So thanks again for the lesson! One step closer to starting it 😁
Hello, Thank you for this clear and explicit video, only two remarks. _ You are right, on warm engine at idle speed the butterfly should be closed (the idle adjustment screw should not touch the fast idle cam) but in this position, the small holes are not all obstructed. Of course, the mixture penetrates into the big hole at the bottom of the well, but at the same time, the mixture also penetrates in the first little hole just above. In order to have the good volume of idle mixture by add up the quantity of these two separate inlets. _ As you say, on a stock carburetor, the volume control screw is protected by a cap, it means a factory preset. So after a compete overhaul and reset of all screws, we should be able to protect it again and play only with the air bypass screw to increase/decrease the idle speed. Does this comments make sense for you?
Today's fuel is not the same as it was when the factory set it. When the factory set it everything was new. 50 years later your going to have to adjust the fuel screw and know matter what you do these engines are polluting the environment. I think everyone watching this video just wants there car to run and drive better.
Apparently, I was not clear with my remark (sorry for my poor English), I will try again. Yes of course, everyone now knows the fuel is bad quality (environment first), but the quality of the fuel does not vary overnight. Of course, if the seal of the screw has never been removed, it can not be used without removing the seal and redo a complete adjustment, due to the actual fuel. I say, after a complete overhaul and once all the carburetor's settings carried out and the engine runs well, after that, we should be able to use only the air bypass screw to adjust the engine idle as the carburetor has been designed like this. The purpose of the volume control screw is to adjust a part of mixture volume during first commissioning settings or after complete disassembly. Once done, this screw can be again sealed because it should be no longer used to adjust the engine idle. The engine idle should be adjusted only with the air bypass screw. Model 34 Pict-3 more complex than previous ones has been designed with the aim of simplifying engine idle adjustment, with this one only a screw to turn. Nothing more, nothing less :) Once again thank you for your videos that help many people, me the first.
_ Volume control screw = First line of mixture air/fuel (in the well and starting from the bottom, second hole a small one). _ Air bypass screw = increasing or decreasing of quantity of fresh air in second line of mixture (first hole the big one) First reset of 34 PICT-3 after disassembly / reassembly or if the plug has never been removed. _ Set both scews (If always in place, remove the plug) Readjustment of engine idle due to weather conditions, altitude, etc... _ Turn only air bypass screw EZGZ, maybe you can try like this to see if it's not more easy ;)
I watched thanks very informative. My 1970 was running but not idling well. I drained the carb pulled out the fuel screw, main jet and it was a bit clogged. I put everything back and now will not start at all...? I was messing with the air and fuel screw so I started over 3 turns out each and nothing... I can smell gas like it's flooding... thanks
I just came across this ! Wow what an awesome segment ! Im for sure going to re watch this a few times! Thank you & I hope you are all good down in Colo !
Great Video Buddy!! I wish I was as smart as you on this stuff. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of VW’s with all of us that have the same passion as you. Keep showing us how it’s done the right way and have a good rest of your week. Stay safe and warm. BigW:-)
Hi there! Hope you're doing well! I must admit that you make the most understanding videos concerning carburetor adjustments and believe me, you're very helpful as I own an Opel Kadett C with a Solex 35 PDSI on it, very similar to yours. Thanks a lot and Keep up the good job! Take care!
This is really helpful! I've a 71 Westy with a 34 PICT3 on a 1600DP and, sure as heck, I have that stumble on take off. Should give it a rebuild, cleaning, and a proper adjustment thanks to your video!
Knew you were in Colorado but wasn't sure where. I'll have to figure out where you do your meet-ups... I'm in Aurora. Took a drive yesterday. What a beautiful day!!
I'm in Loveland, never done a meet up. Drove the Dune buggy up to Estes park today. 70 degrees and dry roads. Rocky National Park was close:-( Was thinking of paying for a table next year for the spring VW's on the green event. If they allow it?
excellent video. I've been having the flat spot on acceleration and a high idle all on a new carburetor. ill use this information and hopefully get back on the road! thanks
Never take a new carburetor out of the box and just put it in service without taking it apart and checking the float level and inlet valve. Remove all the jets and screws to make sure everything looks and tests OK. You wouldn't believe all the things that can be wrong. Just sayin. I am sure you did all that.
I help a friend build a 1600 for his sand rail. It had a 34 PICT-3 we looked up the spec. and step by step how to adjust. The rail would just fall on it's face in 2nd gear. Read somewhere about opening up the jets we did runs great. Do not know if it was dumb luck or the guy that provided the info knew what he was talking about. Good info on the 34 I'm always trying to learn more about them.
Good video. The large upper screw on the choke cam needs to be in contact with the hot idle flat on the cam (just barely) so that the carburetor bore doesn't get torn up by the throttle butterfly at idle. It acts as a positive throttle plate stop so that the soft aluminum carburetor body doesn't have to.
I tried all the carb tricks and my bogg was timing at 28 degrees! Advanced it to 32 and presto no more bogg. 009 with now vac pod. Needs more timing in cold areas or in winters in Az. Saw that on one of your other videos. ;)
This is a really good video, apart from some parts i can identify (from having been told to purchase them) i have definitely learned something new today. Thank you
Sorry. Didn't get back to you. Bug running awesome. Thank you. When I get ready for the next tune up. I hear electronic points are the way to go. What do you think?
hey EZGZ nice video! but i'd recommend that @3:30 the screw should be 1 turn in not öot, this prevents that the flap will dig in the housing over time. if this happens it will suck wrong air.
Great Video! Very good explanation of things! I'm relatively new to the game and I'm having 1 issue with my Ghia. New rebuilt 1600 DP with new carb (same as yours), new coil, distributor, electronic ignition, new wires...etc. Periodically (maybe 1 in 25 times) when I first accelerate (usually coming out of a corner in 2nd gear) the engine boggs. I'll regain acceleration again after 1 or 2 seconds. Pretty frustrating when it happens! Any ideas?
Wow.... I was really surprised that this help me a lot.. I have a 1966 vw with a 1600 engine... I have a better understanding of the carburetor that I just purchased.. thank you.
Great video thank you very much. My question is do you have any tips on how to diagnose if you have a stuck float needle and how to clean it or fix it?
One way to check is to take the air cleaner off and look down the carb with a flashlight at idle. Have some shut the engine off and restart it after a minute or so. When the engine is off there should be no fuel going down the carb unless you open the throttle and see the accelerator pump squirt. The truth of the matter is if the carb is old and dirty buy a carb rebuild kit and clean it. You can do this with basic tools. Most carb kits come with a new float needle valve and instructions.
I learned something about that style carburetor rather interesting one thing I noticed is I've seen a lot of vw burn up Catching Fire because people use regular 1/4 inch gas line with hose clamps always use genuine VW hose for your fuel line or equal to the VW quality and you don't even have to use hose clamps but on high pressure line you do!
G'day Kevin here from Australia. Thanks for another great video. Just on a different subject would you be able to go over the plumbing to the carburetors on your sand rail and bugy. Im interested in how you ran your fuel lines. And if you put in a fuel pressure regulator or not. Thanks again for your great channel.
Just need to check the choke mechanism and then let it fully warm up before tuning it. Then when you think you have it right take it on a test drive. You might want to make some changes...... just sayin
Awesome video!! Thx for the info. Question: if the fuel flow is less... does that heat up the engine? Does less fuel flow mean better mpg or does it mean damaging engine because of heat etc?
A lean mixture will cause your engine to run hotter. Retarded timing will also cause heat. Not you Premium fuel will cause you heat. A stock engine in good tune should average 24 mpg with mixed driving.
Ez Great Video!!!!. I have a Solex just like the one you use for your demo Boca 34. Quick question 71' was running great, today I could not get it started gas was spilling out of the vent tube, carb seemed to be overflowing, drowning in gas. Any Ideas or fixes. Thanks
A quick light tap on the side of the carb might loosen up inlet valve above the float. Might be getting old or the float might have a leak. The book has a nice overview of the insides as do the rebuild kits. Good Luck with that
Could be any number of things since you haven't told me weather condition or details about your engine. I'm not a mind reader. I would start with looking at the choke when cold and then just before your warm restart. Also check that your accelerator pump is squirting as long as you have the air cleaner off. Fuel pump pressure. Plugs, wires, distributor cap, coil wire connections. Maybe do your normal routine with cold start drive it around then come back home and let it sit. Do this to create the slow warm start. When you feel the correct amount of time for it to happen. Don't try to start it but remove the top of the carburetor while it's on the car and see if there is gas in the float bowl. Have someone crank the engine and see if fuel is going in the bowl. (BE Safe) Fuel filter??? Sometimes these things can take a while to figure out. You just have to be patient and be observant. Most shop manual's have a trouble shooting section.
Hey EZ, great video! i just rebuilt one and now the fuel is coming out of the top of the carb and flooding it. Its the little pipe that comes from the fuel cell to the top of the choke butterfly. I put another washer in the inlet valve like you mentioned. Am i missing something?
Check the fuel inlet valve. It might not be closing. Check you fuel pressure to the carb. You may have to put the old fuel inlet valve back in ????? Gently tapp on the side of the carb??? Did you get the dog bone on top of the float in right? Maybe your float is bad? See if it will float or try a different one. Something ain't right in there.
Ive got a huge flat spot on my 71 Super Vert...I touched both of those screws. Have you ever had a problem getting to #2 plug with a plug socket? Dual port manifold gets in the way
I read this post and had this problem when I was trying to do my plugs, I tried everything. Come to find out a small bolt had fallen down beside the plug and the socket wouldn't go down enough. The only way I figured it out was with my cellphone camera.
How do you adjust the choke so that it's letting the pin rest against the lowest little step on that arm? Right now that little adjustment screw is resting against the 2nd little step on the arm so I suspect there must be an adjustment for that.
On the opposite side there is a large round plastic looking device that houses an electric heater. There are 3 screws to loosen and you will find it effects the step on the arm you refer to. You will also see some marks to show factory set points near the plastic. Get a book and see the whole procedure. You don't want to be driving around with the choke on. Bad for MPG and bad for engine.
@@TheEZGZ After I asked you I got to thinking about it and assisted it...but thinks anyway. I've fixed that and reset the two adjustment screws to 2 -2 1/2 turns out. It's still not wanting to stay at idle . I'll tweak some more tomorrow on it. The previous owner said it was the idle solenoid but I don't see how that's it.
Extremely good video! Is there just one main jet and one idle jet needed to replace? I'm at an altitude of 6800. What jet sizes do you recommend? Hopefully you can help me, thanks!
You should be fine using stock jets in a stock carb with stock engine. Todays Ethanol fuels are a bit thinner because of the alcohol so it's like automatical getting a bigger jet even though the engine will make less power and get less MPG. Why do you feel you need to change your jet size?
@@TheEZGZ I do have the Solex 34 pict-3, people up here that see me drive my dune buggy said I need to get it jetted and it sometimes smokes after startup and it didn't do that in 2000 altitude. Could be bad gas, I just don't want it to run rich and wash the oil off or lean and burn my pistons. What do you recommend? I greatly appteciate you!!
After cleaning my EMPI 34 PICT 3, how do I set and adjust the choke during the carburetor assembly? Do I turn the cover counter clockwise so that the spring/heater element to set the valve choke to close? Or do I just align the dot and groove on the carburetor body and choke cover? Thank you.
and the ignition is set to 7.5 degrees before top dead center at idle...is there a bigger ball in the case so that plug keeps it there so it can be tapped all the way to the bottom?
Awesome video. I just inherited a ‘72 super beetle. It hadn’t ran in 25 years. I’ve had it a month and got her running and driving but still have a few bugs with the carb. We live in Los Alamos NM. 8000ft above sea level and I have that lag from idle to acceleration. I would love to pic your brain a bit more on my issue. Do you have an email I could reach you at?
Help! Solex H30/31 Pict .. Found a video that u can no longer find. This video here is exceptional! Only problem I am having is finding where the tiny ball bearing like ball goes back into...!!? Please help asap
Thanks for the reply I think it could possibly be the fuel pump as it had been stood for several years and the ethanol in the fuel has degraded the membrane thank you for your advice
I have a 34 PICT-3 that is adjusted properly and runs well. My problem is that if don't drive the car for a week it takes a lot of cranking to start. I removed the top of the carb and noted that the carburetor body fuel supply had gone dry. I don't believe evaporation is the answer as the system is closed. Any ideas on where the 'leak' may be? 67 VW Bug.
Sounds like you have a good understanding of things. I have not had that issue. The only place I can think of is that brass plug in the lower side of the bowl that gives you access to the main jet. Take that out and replace the seal. If thats not it you might drive the car long enough to gets things good and warmed up and then park as you normally would. Remove the complete carb while it's still warm. Hold it up and see if there is fuel dripping out. You may have a hairline fracture somewhere that opens up when it gets hot Take a good snif of your oil and see if you can smell gas. Be Safe
On cold starts, my ghia starts perfectly fine. After it warms up, like 1 minute, the idle drops, and will almost quit,..sometimes it does quit. So, should i get rid of the auto choke?
Up to you. I would try cleaning and adjusting first. You could also raise the idle speed with the air screw and Idle fuel screw. I've noticed a drastic difference in my idle speed just from buying gas from different stations with different octane ratings. When I use the same gas from the same station my idle stay's consistent. When I drive cross country my idle and MPG is all over the place.
30r14t1 if that means anything to you? I just went to O'riley's and asked for some fuel line. It's nothing special. I paid by the inch for some of the original style VW fuel line with the braided out skin and it was all cracked and leaking when I tried to fire it up to move the car. Must be the alcohol.
thanks, I was just wondering what you were using , im having the same problem with the rubber fuel lines degrading and yes I think your right it seems to be the additives ethanol/ alcohol im trying some SAE J30R9 at moment which is suitable for injection and carb , and it seems to be holding up well after more than a year .
I'm probably going to change to an electric fuel pump as I had a problem with vapor lock on this new style unit. (Chinese). I thought I might splice in some brake line instead of hose and just use the hose as a short coupling. I might split some hose and wrap it around the metal gas line to protect it from shorting if a wire comes loose or vibration along with vapor lock. I have been use the electric rotary pumps and a seperate regulator with no problems so far. I usualy leave the stock fuel pump and just connect a hose to both outlets in case I might need it someday. I appreciate your comment and interaction.
What did you have in mind? Can you bring the car to Loveland? Painters grinding does VW work and they are in Denver near Alameda and I-25 You probably can't afford me.
I always ream out the idle jet to about a 60 it actually gives you adjustment ,it runs cooler, you can idle the motor down and if you are REALLY good it almost will run with a 009 (or as good as it can...)
what is wrong with the solex 31 pict-4 carburettor if the oil is added? so gas goes into them? replaced the korj kit and the high valve was renewed and installed the thickest piece that was in the korj kit... it would be 1.4-1.5mm now... is the mixture adjusted with a smaller screw so that the machine idles at the highest speed? and what about the swag?
Marvel mystery oil has been used for years to improve top end lubrication without effecting the carb operation. Follow the directions and keep watch on your spark plugs. The small screw is your fuel the larger one is air
Hay ezgz the 34 pict 3 will only idle ok to good with the air correction jet screwed right in hit bottomed and the fuel jet out about 5 turns , what do you think the problem to be thanks 😊 Harry
The throttle butterfly is not closed all the way or the Throttle shaft bearings are so worn out it sucking air. On old carbs that have been sitting for a long time and or were never adjusted correctly and driven that way for years you will not be able to just lift the hood and adjust a screw here and there and have it running. Sometimes you have to take it off the car and dissasemble it and clean it. Install new gaskets. If the throttle shaft bearing are worn out you will probably have to replace it. The new carb has to be taken apart and cleaned and inspected before you use it. Don't expect to take it out of the package and bolt it on and run right. Follow everything I show you in this video.
Jimmy, I have spent countless hours test driving my cars. They all run different in different conditions. I get an idea and try it to see if it helps. I try to just make one change at a time so I know that was it or change it back and try something else. You won't hurt your engine by adjusting the accelerator pump. Try it and drive it. Be sure to check your dizzy timing with a timing light to make sure it is advancing and return to idle setpoint correctly
A lot of helpful info, mostly correct. Good that commenters explained about pre-loading screw slightly to prevent butterfly from jamming closed in bore. Car will run better with moderately richer jetting according to altitude. Factory jets were desperate attempt to meet 1970s USA emissions standards (California even tougher) Three inch “ velocity stack” built into stock air cleaner is also important for perfect performance especially in off-idle transition. AND PLEASE !!! Don’t even suggest disarming the elegantly simple and effective warm-up choke system. DON’T let the car sit at idle for 5 minutes to warm up. Most engine wear happens during that time. Keep the choke working as it’s designed, stock air cleaner with 2” paper hot air hose in place, crankcase vent hose and steel pre-heat pipe clear & hooked to hot exhaust flow. Those “intake pre-heat things might be removed ONLY if ambient temp is warm & there is NO trace of carb getting cold. A frosty “snowball carb” is not unusual when designed system is discarded. Over-hyped 009 distributor is usually part of the problems too.
Good to hear that you agree to most of the vid. You have a very good understanding of the VW engine design. Since the vid was made I have changed to a new SVDA pertronix pointless distributor. The engine is much happier and gets a few more MPG to boot. You should consider making some vids to help the VW community. I agree on just a touch of preload. Thanks for you comment and support.
The carb base is larger along with the intake manifold inside diameter. They make a spacer adapter to fit a 34 pic 3 onto a single port engine. Remember that the 34 pic 3 came on the dual port engine from the factory. The dual port head flowed better than the single port head and the intake manifold was also slightly larger. So that means you wouldn't get a big improvement by putting the larger carb on it unless you worked on the head, Raised the compression and added a free flow exhaust that is less restrictive than stock. They do make a carb adapter plate to fit the 34 carb on the smaller single port manifold.
@@TheEZGZ Thanks .... I had done that but still had a flat spot the size of Arizona. (I am from Jamaica by the way) OK so the dellorto drla has a really big screw (phillips I think) that when pulled reveals the chamber from which the fuel passes thru its progression ports ...... therefore easy to clean. I honestly haven't found where to spray so that it comes out the Rolex progression ports ....... and I really looked.
Im kinda new to the vw world as i just bought a tryke with a vw engine, what im having trouble with ia that when ckoke is fully opens engine dies, have a feeling its something minor that im missing but any suggestions would be appreciated
Welcome to VW land. If the tips in this vid don't work then check deeper. Just basic stuff like float level and clogged jets. Never hurts to get a carb rebuild kit and and get familiar with what's what. Since your tryke is new to you it might be a good idea to check and record everything you can. Compression, Ignition timing, Plugs, fuel pump pressure, blah, blah blah Just get a base line and make one change at a time. If it doesn't run with choke off obviously you have a lean condition due to ???? Find it / Fix it/ Be happy Nobody can magically give the answer with out more details and the more detail you look for..... the solution might show up. Just remember all toys are a Money Pit
I think I learned more about that carb in 23 minutes than I have since I bought my 74 super beetle 43 years ago.
EZGZ is THE KING of KINGS
you all probably dont care at all but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot my password. I would love any tricks you can give me.
@Yael Yahir Instablaster :)
@Kason Dario Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Kason Dario it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
Every other vw person speaks in riddles....
Thanks for being the one understandable teacher
id been looking for videos about vw carburators as to how to clean them and etc. so far, your the only one here i found who explains it very well. thumbs up for you sir!
The carb on the bench is the one my VW has, so I really appreciate this video as a first time bug owner!
Glad you liked it!
Sir, I would like to thank you for making this video. I used your advice and tuned my little Chinese knock-off carburetor as you said and it runs so amazing. I made the mistake many have with trying to use the idle screw on the linkage. Now it runs perfect. Not only does it not flood itself after I shut it off, but I actually feel the progression ports kick in! Thank you again!
Congratulations! I appreciate the support!
Excellent video, very helpful. Just for extra info: I had an off idle hesitation/stumble on a Solex 34 pic-3 that I just could not seem to fix. Nothing I did seemed to make a difference. What was even more frustrating is it seemed to "fix its self" in the summer months only to come back as soon as the temp dropped below 55 deg. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the choke element, almost gave up and bought a new carb. It ended up being a completely plugged manifold heat riser tube. Clearing that out and then following the adjustment procedure in this video made a 100% improvement. Thank you!!!
The best 34 pict 3 carb video on RUclips
Great Minds thing alike. God Bless
Your an ace in the hole..been 20 years since I worked on a vw.carb and you showed more than I ever knew. Thanks Sir from Oregon 👉👍👈
Glad to help
I was a VW mechanic in the 60's and again for a while in the late 70's and I forgot more than I am able to remember. I recently scored a VW trike with a '72 engine. Thanks for the refresher, it seems to be coming back a little at a time (with your help)..
Hey James. Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. I gotta go back and watch some of my own vids to remember how and what I did. Old age is not for sissy's.
You just gained a new subscriber! I learned more in this video than the last 50 Vdub videos I've watched! Very well explained and intuitive. Thanks for the video, I'll be watching this one a few times. Maybe I can get the old Glitterbug sportsman running like a champ!
Excellent video. Please do more of the basic stuff ...it’s very good information for those of us that don’t have as much experience!
Thats good feedback. Thank you!
Hi from Germany!
They started on rebuilding the 34 pict 3‘s over here to 37 and 39 mm butterflys, changing the venturis if wanted to larger ones and of course changing the jets. Runs absolutely fantastic on 1679 to 1915 cc engines. No more space problems with duals in beetles, no synchronizing, stock airfilter and looks but very good torque from idle up. You should try these ones out on Valery ! You will never again spend money on Webers or Dellortos
Bjoern from Germany
Sounds like a dream come true. Where do I go to buy one? Can you give me a link to website or what.
Was thinking about enlargement and wondering at what point the intake manifold would become a problem with those larger venturi's. It would also need plenty of heat on that manifold.
Type „Solex 39“ on the german eBay site which is eBay.de and the first hit will be the solex 34 pict 3 with 39 mm throttle
TheEZGZ
Here is what I did and why:
trying to get some more torque and hp out of my 1969 1500 singleport Karmann-Ghia coupe without touching or opening the crankcase because of matching numbers and so on and without changing the look of the engine:
Replaced pistons and cylinders to 88 mm AA Performance slippers, 044 heads with 40 mm intake and 35.5 mm outtake valves, compression ratio was 8,25:1, stock heater boxes, stock exaust, 1.25:1 ratio rocker arms.
Result on dyno: 79 hp @ wheels and 144 NM of torque, gps measured real top speed on highway was 161 km/h with stock gearbox - incredible to me.
But I kept on doing some more:
Some work on the ports plus polishing, compression ratio up to 8.6:1, heater boxes with also 35.5 mm diameter, 123 Electronic ignition
TheEZGZ
But still haven‘t been on the dyno again but sounds and feels stronger and of course even faster. Tryed out my solid shaft 1.4:1 rocker arms finally after lying around my garage for years...Never dared to shorten pushrods, but finally did.
Torque torque torque...😎
Thank you. I'm currently learning about this. Just got my PICT 3 carb cleaned/rebuilt. Ran fine for 1 day & then stalled out at the stop sign when put in neutral. The shop adjusted it to 1200rpm. My friend and I played around with the choke a bit. It felt like ran fast (engine) abit but when it didn't stall for one day but felt the rate of engine idle decrease but not stall at a stop. Took it out today but then stalled out again- same thing. Tried to accelerate in first but then started to stall out again. Thanks for the interesting video. Got the 74 beetle from family- driven during summers and stored during winters for almost 10 yrs.
Some times one cleaning and rebuild isn't enough. You may have to check and reclean to get the specs right. When you get the fuel and air screw just where you like it you might want to turn out the fuel screw 1/4 turn out to richen it up.
@@TheEZGZ by "fuel screw" do you mean the Volume screw?
Wow been fighting to get an engine to idle right changed out two carbs same problem, going to follow your instructions on adjustments, thanks
I have to thank you for making a clear and concise explanation of the 34PICT-3. The best part was your explaining of that chock idle screw. I have been trying to get my 72 running without that dang flat spot. Everything I read was make contact then turn in another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I will follow your way and hopefully make my bug run right, this 75 year old thanks you. P.S. I have washed gas for many years to get rid that Ethanol, finally I can get pure gas 15 miles away.
Thanks for this! I have this carb on my ‘66, and it’s my second carbed car (first was a ‘33 chevy). i had no idea what all the things were. The chevy was much simpler 😜 So thanks again for the lesson! One step closer to starting it 😁
Glad I could help
Hello, Thank you for this clear and explicit video, only two remarks.
_ You are right, on warm engine at idle speed the butterfly should be closed (the idle adjustment screw should not touch the fast idle cam) but in this position, the small holes are not all obstructed. Of course, the mixture penetrates into the big hole at the bottom of the well, but at the same time, the mixture also penetrates in the first little hole just above. In order to have the good volume of idle mixture by add up the quantity of these two separate inlets.
_ As you say, on a stock carburetor, the volume control screw is protected by a cap, it means a factory preset. So after a compete overhaul and reset of all screws, we should be able to protect it again and play only with the air bypass screw to increase/decrease the idle speed.
Does this comments make sense for you?
Today's fuel is not the same as it was when the factory set it.
When the factory set it everything was new.
50 years later your going to have to adjust the fuel screw and know matter what you do these engines are polluting the environment. I think everyone watching this video just wants there car to run and drive better.
Apparently, I was not clear with my remark (sorry for my poor English), I will try again.
Yes of course, everyone now knows the fuel is bad quality (environment first), but the quality of the fuel does not vary overnight.
Of course, if the seal of the screw has never been removed, it can not be used without removing the seal and redo a complete adjustment, due to the actual fuel.
I say, after a complete overhaul and once all the carburetor's settings carried out and the engine runs well, after that, we should be able to use only the air bypass screw to adjust the engine idle as the carburetor has been designed like this. The purpose of the volume control screw is to adjust a part of mixture volume during first commissioning settings or after complete disassembly. Once done, this screw can be again sealed because it should be no longer used to adjust the engine idle. The engine idle should be adjusted only with the air bypass screw. Model 34 Pict-3 more complex than previous ones has been designed with the aim of simplifying engine idle adjustment, with this one only a screw to turn. Nothing more, nothing less :)
Once again thank you for your videos that help many people, me the first.
_ Volume control screw = First line of mixture air/fuel (in the well and starting from the bottom, second hole a small one).
_ Air bypass screw = increasing or decreasing of quantity of fresh air in second line of mixture (first hole the big one)
First reset of 34 PICT-3 after disassembly / reassembly or if the plug has never been removed.
_ Set both scews (If always in place, remove the plug)
Readjustment of engine idle due to weather conditions, altitude, etc...
_ Turn only air bypass screw
EZGZ, maybe you can try like this to see if it's not more easy ;)
I watched thanks very informative. My 1970 was running but not idling well. I drained the carb pulled out the fuel screw, main jet and it was a bit clogged. I put everything back and now will not start at all...? I was messing with the air and fuel screw so I started over 3 turns out each and nothing... I can smell gas like it's flooding... thanks
I just came across this ! Wow what an awesome segment ! Im for sure going to re watch this a few times! Thank you & I hope you are all good down in Colo !
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm so glad that I watched this video! This is the best, no bullshit video on vw carbs.
Great Video Buddy!! I wish I was as smart as you on this stuff. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of VW’s with all of us that have the same passion as you. Keep showing us how it’s done the right way and have a good rest of your week. Stay safe and warm. BigW:-)
finally a guy that just gets to the point. thank you
Excellent video buddy,I always learn something new. I had no idea about the little progressive holes just above the butterfly. Thanks for sharing !
Yep it pays to have a factory service manual sometimes.
@@TheEZGZ I should definitely try to round one up. I have a great book but not a manual.😕
Hi there! Hope you're doing well!
I must admit that you make the most understanding videos concerning carburetor adjustments and believe me, you're very helpful as I own an Opel Kadett C with a Solex 35 PDSI on it, very similar to yours.
Thanks a lot and Keep up the good job!
Take care!
I appreciate your support! Glad you found it helpful.
Good video. Good to brush up on adjusting the old Solex carbs. Thank you.
What a great VDO got a 31 solex but it has helped me understand the basics and i think she sounds and runs better now
Best video.. explains in more detail how the whole carb works and parts… for me anyways it helped me big time after a year of stalling at stop signs
Glad it helped. Have a great day!
This is really helpful! I've a 71 Westy with a 34 PICT3 on a 1600DP and, sure as heck, I have that stumble on take off. Should give it a rebuild, cleaning, and a proper adjustment thanks to your video!
Best video about this carb on the internet. Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
Great info. Got a VW Bus and had a Chinese replacement, still got the old 34 Pict3, s this was really useful.
Very cool!
Knew you were in Colorado but wasn't sure where. I'll have to figure out where you do your meet-ups... I'm in Aurora. Took a drive yesterday. What a beautiful day!!
I'm in Loveland, never done a meet up. Drove the Dune buggy up to Estes park today. 70 degrees and dry roads. Rocky National Park was close:-(
Was thinking of paying for a table next year for the spring VW's on the green event. If they allow it?
excellent video. I've been having the flat spot on acceleration and a high idle all on a new carburetor. ill use this information and hopefully get back on the road! thanks
Never take a new carburetor out of the box and just put it in service without taking it apart and checking the float level and inlet valve. Remove all the jets and screws to make sure everything looks and tests OK. You wouldn't believe all the things that can be wrong. Just sayin. I am sure you did all that.
Really good video, thanks mate for clear and precise instructions, Happy Days!
Thanks Alan! I appreciate the support
I help a friend build a 1600 for his sand rail. It had a 34 PICT-3 we looked up the spec. and step by step how to adjust. The rail would just fall on it's face in 2nd gear. Read somewhere about opening up the jets we did runs great. Do not know if it was dumb luck or the guy that provided the info knew what he was talking about. Good info on the 34 I'm always trying to learn more about them.
Thanks Dan. I'm always hoping one of those guys will come along and share those secrets with us.
Really great - thanks, I upgraded to a Pict-3 on my 1500, this has really helped me understand it better
Great to hear!
Those are some great tips and explanation of adjustment preceedures. Great job GZ !
I'm tryin. I appreciate your friendship and support Loyd
Good video. The large upper screw on the choke cam needs to be in contact with the hot idle flat on the cam (just barely) so that the carburetor bore doesn't get torn up by the throttle butterfly at idle. It acts as a positive throttle plate stop so that the soft aluminum carburetor body doesn't have to.
Great tip. Insightful detail. Thank you!
Tons of great information. Where were you 15 years ago. When I was trying to figure them out?
Right here doing the same stuff without a camera. hehehe
I tried all the carb tricks and my bogg was timing at 28 degrees! Advanced it to 32 and presto no more bogg. 009 with now vac pod. Needs more timing in cold areas or in winters in Az.
Saw that on one of your other videos. ;)
This is a really good video, apart from some parts i can identify (from having been told to purchase them) i have definitely learned something new today. Thank you
Thanks for the comment and feed back. Good Luck with your project.
Sorry. Didn't get back to you. Bug running awesome. Thank you. When I get ready for the next tune up. I hear electronic points are the way to go. What do you think?
hey EZGZ nice video! but i'd recommend that @3:30 the screw should be 1 turn in not öot, this prevents that the flap will dig in the housing over time. if this happens it will suck wrong air.
That's true. I regret not speaking to that but in general the video seems to be helpful to many VW folks.
Great Video! Very good explanation of things! I'm relatively new to the game and I'm having 1 issue with my Ghia. New rebuilt 1600 DP with new carb (same as yours), new coil, distributor, electronic ignition, new wires...etc. Periodically (maybe 1 in 25 times) when I first accelerate (usually coming out of a corner in 2nd gear) the engine boggs. I'll regain acceleration again after 1 or 2 seconds. Pretty frustrating when it happens! Any ideas?
Wow.... I was really surprised that this help me a lot.. I have a 1966 vw with a 1600 engine... I have a better understanding of the carburetor that I just purchased.. thank you.
Great video thank you very much. My question is do you have any tips on how to diagnose if you have a stuck float needle and how to clean it or fix it?
One way to check is to take the air cleaner off and look down the carb with a flashlight at idle. Have some shut the engine off and restart it after a minute or so. When the engine is off there should be no fuel going down the carb unless you open the throttle and see the accelerator pump squirt.
The truth of the matter is if the carb is old and dirty buy a carb rebuild kit and clean it. You can do this with basic tools. Most carb kits come with a new float needle valve and instructions.
This is on my 72 super. Thanks for giving your knowledge.
Glad to help
...thanx for the info...i have a Pict-34 and its doing everything you've said..."stay tuned"...
The best I've seen. Thank you!
I learned something about that style carburetor rather interesting one thing I noticed is I've seen a lot of vw burn up Catching Fire because people use regular 1/4 inch gas line with hose clamps always use genuine VW hose for your fuel line or equal to the VW quality and you don't even have to use hose clamps but on high pressure line you do!
Good Point Paul. Thanks for your contribution
G'day Kevin here from Australia. Thanks for another great video.
Just on a different subject would you be able to go over the plumbing to the carburetors on your sand rail and bugy. Im interested in how you ran your fuel lines. And if you put in a fuel pressure regulator or not.
Thanks again for your great channel.
What do you suggest for a fuel line and metal filter between the fuel pump and carb? I am your age and throughly enjoy your videos.
Thanks for another great video. I love your videos they help me a lot. Wishing you all the best.
Thank you!!!You have helped me so much today Brother!😁
Glad to hear it!
I've put a PICT 34 on my 81 GL 1100 Honda and I'm trying to dial it in . Hopefully, this video will help me out.
Interesting....! The displacement is about the same so hopefully you can make it work.
Wow after looking at several videos yours help me sooo much. Chock should b cold before justing it?
Just need to check the choke mechanism and then let it fully warm up before tuning it. Then when you think you have it right take it on a test drive. You might want to make some changes...... just sayin
Brilliant video!! Helped me with my 68 bug!:)
Thanks for letting me know. Give that choke screw an extra 1/4 turn just to make sure it is the stop and not the butterfly :-)
Hey buddy thank you for the oldskool knowledge
Awesome video!! Thx for the info. Question: if the fuel flow is less... does that heat up the engine? Does less fuel flow mean better mpg or does it mean damaging engine because of heat etc?
A lean mixture will cause your engine to run hotter. Retarded timing will also cause heat. Not you Premium fuel will cause you heat. A stock engine in good tune should average 24 mpg with mixed driving.
@@TheEZGZ thx! I was also using premium hi-octane gas, that coild have been it. Thank you for responding, i appreciate it
Ez Great Video!!!!. I have a Solex just like the one you use for your demo Boca 34. Quick question 71' was running great, today I could not get it started gas was spilling out of the vent tube, carb seemed to be overflowing, drowning in gas. Any Ideas or fixes. Thanks
A quick light tap on the side of the carb might loosen up inlet valve above the float. Might be getting old or the float might have a leak. The book has a nice overview of the insides as do the rebuild kits. Good Luck with that
@@TheEZGZ Thanks Ez I'll update you on the outcome.
Thank you for sharing your expertise. Does a 30 pict have check balls like your 34?
They all do on the accelerator pump circlet
Great video, can you explain why my 71 fires on cold starts but turns over 15 times before starting when the car is warm? Thank you
Could be any number of things since you haven't told me weather condition or details about your engine. I'm not a mind reader. I would start with looking at the choke when cold and then just before your warm restart. Also check that your accelerator pump is squirting as long as you have the air cleaner off. Fuel pump pressure. Plugs, wires, distributor cap, coil wire connections.
Maybe do your normal routine with cold start drive it around then come back home and let it sit. Do this to create the slow warm start. When you feel the correct amount of time for it to happen. Don't try to start it but remove the top of the carburetor while it's on the car and see if there is gas in the float bowl. Have someone crank the engine and see if fuel is going in the bowl. (BE Safe) Fuel filter??? Sometimes these things can take a while to figure out. You just have to be patient and be observant. Most shop manual's have a trouble shooting section.
@@TheEZGZ you’re awesome dude. Thanks and sorry being vague.
Hey EZ, great video! i just rebuilt one and now the fuel is coming out of the top of the carb and flooding it. Its the little pipe that comes from the fuel cell to the top of the choke butterfly. I put another washer in the inlet valve like you mentioned. Am i missing something?
Check the fuel inlet valve. It might not be closing. Check you fuel pressure to the carb. You may have to put the old fuel inlet valve back in ????? Gently tapp on the side of the carb??? Did you get the dog bone on top of the float in right? Maybe your float is bad? See if it will float or try a different one. Something ain't right in there.
Ive got a huge flat spot on my 71 Super Vert...I touched both of those screws.
Have you ever had a problem getting to #2 plug with a plug socket? Dual port manifold gets in the way
Use a SVDA 205 style distributor and buy a thinner spark plug socket or grind down the one you have.
I read this post and had this problem when I was trying to do my plugs, I tried everything. Come to find out a small bolt had fallen down beside the plug and the socket wouldn't go down enough. The only way I figured it out was with my cellphone camera.
How do you adjust the choke so that it's letting the pin rest against the lowest little step on that arm? Right now that little adjustment screw is resting against the 2nd little step on the arm so I suspect there must be an adjustment for that.
On the opposite side there is a large round plastic looking device that houses an electric heater. There are 3 screws to loosen and you will find it effects the step on the arm you refer to. You will also see some marks to show factory set points near the plastic. Get a book and see the whole procedure. You don't want to be driving around with the choke on. Bad for MPG and bad for engine.
@@TheEZGZ After I asked you I got to thinking about it and assisted it...but thinks anyway. I've fixed that and reset the two adjustment screws to 2 -2 1/2 turns out. It's still not wanting to stay at idle . I'll tweak some more tomorrow on it. The previous owner said it was the idle solenoid but I don't see how that's it.
Extremely good video! Is there just one main jet and one idle jet needed to replace? I'm at an altitude of 6800. What jet sizes do you recommend? Hopefully you can help me, thanks!
You should be fine using stock jets in a stock carb with stock engine. Todays Ethanol fuels are a bit thinner because of the alcohol so it's like automatical getting a bigger jet even though the engine will make less power and get less MPG. Why do you feel you need to change your jet size?
@@TheEZGZ I do have the Solex 34 pict-3, people up here that see me drive my dune buggy said I need to get it jetted and it sometimes smokes after startup and it didn't do that in 2000 altitude. Could be bad gas, I just don't want it to run rich and wash the oil off or lean and burn my pistons. What do you recommend? I greatly appteciate you!!
Thank you for posting this. Great explanation
Glad it helped. Good Luck with your project
Hi great vid as always. When you say "3 to 4 turns" is that back from all the way in or 3 to 4 turns in from fully out ?
IN
Also a vacuum advance dist. helps with getting rid of any off idle stumble.
I agree :-)
Hello! Thanks for the info. I have a question. The accelerator pump is scraping the alternator. Any suggestions?
make or buy a carb spacer carcraftstore.com/34pictsolexcarbspacer.aspx
After cleaning my EMPI 34 PICT 3, how do I set and adjust the choke during the carburetor assembly? Do I turn the cover counter clockwise so that the spring/heater element to set the valve choke to close? Or do I just align the dot and groove on the carburetor body and choke cover? Thank you.
Dot and groove and modify according to you needs and temps
and the ignition is set to 7.5 degrees before top dead center at idle...is there a bigger ball in the case so that plug keeps it there so it can be tapped all the way to the bottom?
No sir. That is the accelerator check valve.
Awesome video. I just inherited a ‘72 super beetle. It hadn’t ran in 25 years. I’ve had it a month and got her running and driving but still have a few bugs with the carb. We live in Los Alamos NM. 8000ft above sea level and I have that lag from idle to acceleration. I would love to pic your brain a bit more on my issue. Do you have an email I could reach you at?
Sounds great! Get a Manual and just go threw threw troubleshooting section. after 25 years it probably won't be perfect
Help! Solex H30/31 Pict .. Found a video that u can no longer find. This video here is exceptional! Only problem I am having is finding where the tiny ball bearing like ball goes back into...!!? Please help asap
Thanks for the reply I think it could possibly be the fuel pump as it had been stood for several years and the ethanol in the fuel has degraded the membrane thank you for your advice
I switched to low pressure electric with a regulator and never looked back. # PSI Do it and be happy
Excellent than you. The question is What is the level of the fuel, and how to check it. Thanks.
A good rebuild kit comes with full directions and 3 different float settings. It will allso come with a a little cardboard float level gauge.
I have a 34 PICT-3 that is adjusted properly and runs well. My problem is that if don't drive the car for a week it takes a lot of cranking to start. I removed the top of the carb and noted that the carburetor body fuel supply had gone dry. I don't believe evaporation is the answer as the system is closed. Any ideas on where the 'leak' may be? 67 VW Bug.
Sounds like you have a good understanding of things. I have not had that issue. The only place I can think of is that brass plug in the lower side of the bowl that gives you access to the main jet. Take that out and replace the seal. If thats not it you might drive the car long enough to gets things good and warmed up and then park as you normally would. Remove the complete carb while it's still warm. Hold it up and see if there is fuel dripping out. You may have a hairline fracture somewhere that opens up when it gets hot Take a good snif of your oil and see if you can smell gas. Be Safe
Great video and info thank you.
On cold starts, my ghia starts perfectly fine. After it warms up, like 1 minute, the idle drops, and will almost quit,..sometimes it does quit. So, should i get rid of the auto choke?
Up to you. I would try cleaning and adjusting first. You could also raise the idle speed with the air screw and Idle fuel screw. I've noticed a drastic difference in my idle speed just from buying gas from different stations with different octane ratings. When I use the same gas from the same station my idle stay's consistent.
When I drive cross country my idle and MPG is all over the place.
top tips there for sure , can you tell me what sae rating that fuel pipe is to the carb please.
30r14t1 if that means anything to you? I just went to O'riley's and asked for some fuel line. It's nothing special. I paid by the inch for some of the original style VW fuel line with the braided out skin and it was all cracked and leaking when I tried to fire it up to move the car. Must be the alcohol.
thanks, I was just wondering what you were using , im having the same problem with the rubber fuel lines degrading and yes I think your right it seems to be the additives ethanol/ alcohol im trying some SAE J30R9 at moment which is suitable for injection and carb , and it seems to be holding up well after more than a year .
I'm probably going to change to an electric fuel pump as I had a problem with vapor lock on this new style unit. (Chinese). I thought I might splice in some brake line instead of hose and just use the hose as a short coupling. I might split some hose and wrap it around the metal gas line to protect it from shorting if a wire comes loose or vibration along with vapor lock. I have been use the electric rotary pumps and a seperate regulator with no problems so far. I usualy leave the stock fuel pump and just connect a hose to both outlets in case I might need it someday. I appreciate your comment and interaction.
I have a Buggie and it just won't idle, bought from California and live in Denver..... it did sit for a bit.... would you setup the carb?
What did you have in mind? Can you bring the car to Loveland? Painters grinding does VW work and they are in Denver near Alameda and I-25
You probably can't afford me.
I always ream out the idle jet to about a 60 it actually gives you adjustment ,it runs cooler, you can idle the motor down and if you are REALLY good it almost will run with a 009 (or as good as it can...)
Whatever works for you. If one way doesn't work I just keep trying things until I get it.
Thanks that gives some information when attacking project
Glad I could help
What distributor cap do you have? Some say a specific cap will make for a rough idle.
I just run the caps with the brass contact posts instead of the cheap aluminum ones.
Thank you!@@TheEZGZ
what is wrong with the solex 31 pict-4 carburettor if the oil is added? so gas goes into them? replaced the korj kit and the high valve was renewed and installed the thickest piece that was in the korj kit... it would be 1.4-1.5mm now... is the mixture adjusted with a smaller screw so that the machine idles at the highest speed? and what about the swag?
Marvel mystery oil has been used for years to improve top end lubrication without effecting the carb operation. Follow the directions and keep watch on your spark plugs.
The small screw is your fuel the larger one is air
Hay ezgz the 34 pict 3 will only idle ok to good with the air correction jet screwed right in hit bottomed and the fuel jet out about 5 turns , what do you think the problem to be thanks 😊 Harry
The throttle butterfly is not closed all the way or the Throttle shaft bearings are so worn out it sucking air. On old carbs that have been sitting for a long time and or were never adjusted correctly and driven that way for years you will not be able to just lift the hood and adjust a screw here and there and have it running.
Sometimes you have to take it off the car and dissasemble it and clean it. Install new gaskets. If the throttle shaft bearing are worn out you will probably have to replace it. The new carb has to be taken apart and cleaned and inspected before you use it. Don't expect to take it out of the package and bolt it on and run right. Follow everything I show you in this video.
Thanks for the video, I'm in denver too! Anyways I need to go through mi carb it's not idling
Excellent video 🤓👍
Thank you learned A LOT Thanks again!
My empi 34 pict 3 bogs going up hill, is that the accelerator pump? What is the best setting for the pump?
Jimmy, I have spent countless hours test driving my cars. They all run different in different conditions. I get an idea and try it to see if it helps. I try to just make one change at a time so I know that was it or change it back and try something else. You won't hurt your engine by adjusting the accelerator pump. Try it and drive it. Be sure to check your dizzy timing with a timing light to make sure it is advancing and return to idle setpoint correctly
Very nice video with a nice exlepnation
A lot of helpful info, mostly correct. Good that commenters explained about pre-loading screw slightly to prevent butterfly from jamming closed in bore. Car will run better with moderately richer jetting according to altitude. Factory jets were desperate attempt to meet 1970s USA emissions standards (California even tougher) Three inch “ velocity stack” built into stock air cleaner is also important for perfect performance especially in off-idle transition. AND PLEASE !!! Don’t even suggest disarming the elegantly simple and effective warm-up choke system. DON’T let the car sit at idle for 5 minutes to warm up. Most engine wear happens during that time. Keep the choke working as it’s designed, stock air cleaner with 2” paper hot air hose in place, crankcase vent hose and steel pre-heat pipe clear & hooked to hot exhaust flow. Those “intake pre-heat things might be removed ONLY if ambient temp is warm & there is NO trace of carb getting cold. A frosty “snowball carb” is not unusual when designed system is discarded. Over-hyped 009 distributor is usually part of the problems too.
Good to hear that you agree to most of the vid. You have a very good understanding of the VW engine design. Since the vid was made I have changed to a new SVDA pertronix pointless distributor. The engine is much happier and gets a few more MPG to boot. You should consider making some vids to help the VW community. I agree on just a touch of preload. Thanks for you comment and support.
@@TheEZGZ what timing do you use for the new distributor?
Hi, can you tell me why the 34-pict-3 is not good for a single port? thanks
The carb base is larger along with the intake manifold inside diameter. They make a spacer adapter to fit a 34 pic 3 onto a single port engine. Remember that the 34 pic 3 came on the dual port engine from the factory. The dual port head flowed better than the single port head and the intake manifold was also slightly larger. So that means you wouldn't get a big improvement by putting the larger carb on it unless you worked on the head, Raised the compression and added a free flow exhaust that is less restrictive than stock.
They do make a carb adapter plate to fit the 34 carb on the smaller single port manifold.
Hey EZGZ, how are the progression ports checked or cleaned??
Take it off the car. Disassemble, spray brake cleaner threw ports and watch where it comes out. Wear eye protection.
@@TheEZGZ Thanks .... I had done that but still had a flat spot the size of Arizona. (I am from Jamaica by the way)
OK so the dellorto drla has a really big screw (phillips I think) that when pulled reveals the chamber from which the fuel passes thru its progression ports ...... therefore easy to clean.
I honestly haven't found where to spray so that it comes out the Rolex progression ports ....... and I really looked.
sir can you explain and demonstrate how to fix brake master cilinder. Thanks
Will try
Very good video i learned alot!
Glad to hear it! Sorry for the delay. Comments still mean a lot;! Thanks and have a Merry Christmas.
Great information, thanks for sharing!
Thank you Greg, I really appreciate it!
Back at you my friend
👍, Great info on the fuel octane also.
I always remember back in High School being able to buy 97 octane leaded and it being so expensive. Like 79cents a gallon. LOL
Im kinda new to the vw world as i just bought a tryke with a vw engine, what im having trouble with ia that when ckoke is fully opens engine dies, have a feeling its something minor that im missing but any suggestions would be appreciated
Welcome to VW land. If the tips in this vid don't work then check deeper. Just basic stuff like float level and clogged jets. Never hurts to get a carb rebuild kit and and get familiar with what's what. Since your tryke is new to you it might be a good idea to check and record everything you can. Compression, Ignition timing, Plugs, fuel pump pressure, blah, blah blah Just get a base line and make one change at a time. If it doesn't run with choke off obviously you have a lean condition due to ???? Find it / Fix it/ Be happy Nobody can magically give the answer with out more details and the more detail you look for..... the solution might show up. Just remember all toys are a Money Pit
I just disconnect the choke all together and let her warm up. But in Florida winters are mild.
True...