My pipes in my cottage had been frozen for four days and I watched your video this morning. I got the woodstove roaring to heat up the place more and opened the cupboard doors under the sinks in the bathroom and the kitchen. Then I went outside and put a small space heater near the pipes in my exposed crawlspace. after a couple hours your tips worked wonderfully. Thank you so much for posting this informative video!! 🥳 I’ll be better prepared for next winter. 🥶👍
Tell me why a contractor and/or subcontractor would EVER run waterlines on exterior walls then insulate over the top of them! Seems to me insulation should be the first thing on the inside of exterior walls then waterlines.
Greetings from Scotland. When it comes to crawl space pipes, I’ve found that temperatures are actually very stable. I’ve got temperature readings on two hot water pipes, and they are about 10 degrees C outside of shower use, even though the space is vented, and even when the temperature outside is minus 10 Celsius. This is down to ground temperatures. It takes a lot of energy to freeze the ground, and by the same token it also radiates a lot of heat. When.you put a house on top of that ground, it holds it’s temperature for a long time. Now that said, if your climate is continental the ground temperatures under the house can be much colder. Also, while one degree doesn’t sound like much, actually it is. The latent heat required to take water from freezing point to ice is the same energy needed to chill the same water from 70 degrees C to freezing point.
Hello, experiencing a winter freeze right now. The pipes are ok so far. 🙏🏼 I watched your video & respect your expertise. In addition to taking temperature readings (for the graph you demonstrated), what general factors will tell us the pipes are in a safe zone? I assume whenever the outdoor temp is below 33 deg, then there is a threat for frozen pipes? Lastly, is it ok to remove all of the vent styrofoam covers to the crawlspace when the outdoor temperature consistently stays above 33 deg - to avoid radon poisoning &/or mold growth? Thank you.
Hey, When the temperature is below 32F outside the pipes could freeze if not used for a long enough period of time. However, There is going to be heat loss from your home and from the soil directly below the house which will help to keep the pipes above freezing. There are many factors to consider, but it is a safe assumption that any plumbing located or passing through an exterior wall or vented crawlspace will be at risk of freezing. Pipes located in the middle or interior of the house should be risk free if the house is a comfortable temperature. If you run an exhaust vent such as your kitchen vent, bathroom vent, laundry dryer, or even a fireplace, cold air from the outside will have to rush into the house to replace the are that is being pushed out the vent or chimney. This can increase the risk of pipes freezing. So be aware of your pipes at 32F and if your house is around 70F you might not need to worry about your pipes until 15F or colder. Yes, you can remove those foam covers during the warmer months, but keep in mind that current building science is leaning towards not venting crawlspaces, but that is with the understanding that the crawlspace would be a conditioned space and mechanically ventilated. The idea behind this change is to manage the air entering the crawlspace as air can drive humidity into the crawlspace and because of the cooler surfaces in the crawlspace if the relative humidity is just right then the water vapor will condense and cause mold anyway. Also radon mitigation is something that can also change based on what vents are running in your house. Meaning, the vents in a crawlspace alone may not take care of radon issues. It is good to do long term monitoring. I use a detector from Airthings that cost about $150 and helps understand how my house changes radon levels season to season.
I really liked your video. I'm in the Houston, TX area and have learned a lot over the years. The TV news only partially provides the necessary information. Cover the hose bibs; check. Open cabinets; check. But NEVER goes into the FACT that it is HEAT from the living space (that you so well covered) that prevents the pipes from freezing. Hose bib pipes on unheated walls WILL freeze and burst once the temperature gets into the teens. (they don't break the valves themselves; they break the thinner pipes in the walls) Pay attention to where your hose bibs are and if heat can get to that wall. I was around in 1989 when, due to the loss of power (rotating power outages), pipes burst all over Houston. Knowing this, for "The Great Texas Freeze" of 2021, I had already drained all of the water from my house pipes. (I failed with my pool equipment, but that is a different story. Live and learn.) New lessons. Remove plugs from pool equipment when there is a power loss; because there is no power to circulate the water to prevent it from freezing using "freeze mode". Leverage heat from the earth to keep things from freezing. A bunch of my pool equipment froze and burst pipes and the heater because I didn't know to remove the plugs and let them drain. But, I have a fake boulder over the water valves used for my in-floor cleaning. That survived just fine in 2021; good thing too as there are a TON of pipes for that. For hose bibs, I recently bought some Freeze Misers. Check them out.
Ice and water can both exist at 32, but to say that it’s only one degree is misleading. It takes a lot of btus of latent energy to go from ice to water.
You are correct and that doesn't even account for the affects of pressure and turbulence in a system, but if all other factors remain the same at some temperature their is a tipping point and until it is reached the water will be liquid, but then after that tipping point it will become solid. That is what I was trying to say, but I might not have been clear.
I have vacation home so I shut water off and pour antifreeze down drains too. Oh I drain the lines the best I can too. Water lines are in crawl space and I have insulated them the best I can. My question is if I go there in winter months and the temps at night are in the upper 20’s F should I drip the interior and exterior faucets just in case? Leave the heat at 70 when we are gone.
Hey Brandon, If the house is at 70 degrees, then the heat loss from the house into the crawlspace should keep the crawlspace above freezing. I would make sure the crawlspace walls are insulated, the crawlspace vents are closed if you have vents, and I would keep the house temperature no less than 60 degrees. Keeping the house at 70 is ideal since that will keep humidity levels controlled while you are gone. The ground temperature in the center of the crawlspace should remain above freezing all winter long, but if it doesn’t, then you might need a secondary seasonal heat source in you crawlspace. Let’s think about insulation for a second. If I am wearing a big puffy jacket the insulation will help to keep me warm when I am out in a snowstorm, but if my body no longer produces heat because I died in the snowstorm then no matter how much insulation I was wearing my body would still freeze. Putting insulation on pipes that are not moving fresh above freezing water through them will freeze regardless of how much insulation you apply to the pipes. The insulation only works as a buffer to slow the rate of freezing. Heat Sources include heat loss from the living area of the home, heat loss from the ground that has not frozen, heat from a secondary heating system in the crawlspace, heat from a pipe heat cable. With any of these heat sources the power could go out and your home could stop producing heat, but the insulation on the pipes will extend the amount of time you have to get the power turned back on before the pipes freeze. Only drip faucets if you are home and if you feel like it is 100% needed. Water in the supply pipes is under pressure, but the water is not under pressure in the drainpipes. That means that water could potentially freeze faster in the drainpipe causing a clog that could crack the drainpipe or cause a backup resulting in the flooding your house.
@@twomooseWow, best in-depth reply from a host-expert I’ve ever seen to a viewer’s question. 👌🏼 Thank you! Still confused abt the process but appreciate your willingness to help us.
My pipes in my cottage had been frozen for four days and I watched your video this morning. I got the woodstove roaring to heat up the place more and opened the cupboard doors under the sinks in the bathroom and the kitchen. Then I went outside and put a small space heater near the pipes in my exposed crawlspace. after a couple hours your tips worked wonderfully. Thank you so much for posting this informative video!! 🥳 I’ll be better prepared for next winter. 🥶👍
You are awesome, thanks
Tell me why a contractor and/or subcontractor would EVER run waterlines on exterior walls then insulate over the top of them! Seems to me insulation should be the first thing on the inside of exterior walls then waterlines.
thank you, property brother
Greetings from Scotland. When it comes to crawl space pipes, I’ve found that temperatures are actually very stable. I’ve got temperature readings on two hot water pipes, and they are about 10 degrees C outside of shower use, even though the space is vented, and even when the temperature outside is minus 10 Celsius. This is down to ground temperatures. It takes a lot of energy to freeze the ground, and by the same token it also radiates a lot of heat. When.you put a house on top of that ground, it holds it’s temperature for a long time. Now that said, if your climate is continental the ground temperatures under the house can be much colder.
Also, while one degree doesn’t sound like much, actually it is. The latent heat required to take water from freezing point to ice is the same energy needed to chill the same water from 70 degrees C to freezing point.
Very interesting! I didn't know that about the latent heat. Learn something every day!
This guy is all bad news. And less possible recommendation.
Hello, experiencing a winter freeze right now. The pipes are ok so far. 🙏🏼 I watched your video & respect your expertise. In addition to taking temperature readings (for the graph you demonstrated), what general factors will tell us the pipes are in a safe zone? I assume whenever the outdoor temp is below 33 deg, then there is a threat for frozen pipes? Lastly, is it ok to remove all of the vent styrofoam covers to the crawlspace when the outdoor temperature consistently stays above 33 deg - to avoid radon poisoning &/or mold growth? Thank you.
Hey, When the temperature is below 32F outside the pipes could freeze if not used for a long enough period of time. However, There is going to be heat loss from your home and from the soil directly below the house which will help to keep the pipes above freezing. There are many factors to consider, but it is a safe assumption that any plumbing located or passing through an exterior wall or vented crawlspace will be at risk of freezing. Pipes located in the middle or interior of the house should be risk free if the house is a comfortable temperature. If you run an exhaust vent such as your kitchen vent, bathroom vent, laundry dryer, or even a fireplace, cold air from the outside will have to rush into the house to replace the are that is being pushed out the vent or chimney. This can increase the risk of pipes freezing. So be aware of your pipes at 32F and if your house is around 70F you might not need to worry about your pipes until 15F or colder.
Yes, you can remove those foam covers during the warmer months, but keep in mind that current building science is leaning towards not venting crawlspaces, but that is with the understanding that the crawlspace would be a conditioned space and mechanically ventilated. The idea behind this change is to manage the air entering the crawlspace as air can drive humidity into the crawlspace and because of the cooler surfaces in the crawlspace if the relative humidity is just right then the water vapor will condense and cause mold anyway. Also radon mitigation is something that can also change based on what vents are running in your house. Meaning, the vents in a crawlspace alone may not take care of radon issues. It is good to do long term monitoring. I use a detector from Airthings that cost about $150 and helps understand how my house changes radon levels season to season.
@@twomoose Thank you so much! Again, the best in-depth reply from a host-expert of any RUclips video I’ve seen. 👌🏼
you tested the shit outta them pipes yo
I really liked your video. I'm in the Houston, TX area and have learned a lot over the years. The TV news only partially provides the necessary information. Cover the hose bibs; check. Open cabinets; check. But NEVER goes into the FACT that it is HEAT from the living space (that you so well covered) that prevents the pipes from freezing. Hose bib pipes on unheated walls WILL freeze and burst once the temperature gets into the teens. (they don't break the valves themselves; they break the thinner pipes in the walls) Pay attention to where your hose bibs are and if heat can get to that wall. I was around in 1989 when, due to the loss of power (rotating power outages), pipes burst all over Houston. Knowing this, for "The Great Texas Freeze" of 2021, I had already drained all of the water from my house pipes. (I failed with my pool equipment, but that is a different story. Live and learn.) New lessons. Remove plugs from pool equipment when there is a power loss; because there is no power to circulate the water to prevent it from freezing using "freeze mode". Leverage heat from the earth to keep things from freezing. A bunch of my pool equipment froze and burst pipes and the heater because I didn't know to remove the plugs and let them drain. But, I have a fake boulder over the water valves used for my in-floor cleaning. That survived just fine in 2021; good thing too as there are a TON of pipes for that. For hose bibs, I recently bought some Freeze Misers. Check them out.
Good idea about checking water temps in the morning.
What if you get water flow in the sink and bathroom sink but no hot water in your shower?
Ice and water can both exist at 32, but to say that it’s only one degree is misleading. It takes a lot of btus of latent energy to go from ice to water.
You are correct and that doesn't even account for the affects of pressure and turbulence in a system, but if all other factors remain the same at some temperature their is a tipping point and until it is reached the water will be liquid, but then after that tipping point it will become solid. That is what I was trying to say, but I might not have been clear.
Long time ago and I don’t remember. Pressure will affect the freezing point as well by the way.
I have vacation home so I shut water off and pour antifreeze down drains too. Oh I drain the lines the best I can too. Water lines are in crawl space and I have insulated them the best I can. My question is if I go there in winter months and the temps at night are in the upper 20’s F should I drip the interior and exterior faucets just in case? Leave the heat at 70 when we are gone.
Hey Brandon,
If the house is at 70 degrees, then the heat loss from the house into the crawlspace should keep the crawlspace above freezing. I would make sure the crawlspace walls are insulated, the crawlspace vents are closed if you have vents, and I would keep the house temperature no less than 60 degrees. Keeping the house at 70 is ideal since that will keep humidity levels controlled while you are gone. The ground temperature in the center of the crawlspace should remain above freezing all winter long, but if it doesn’t, then you might need a secondary seasonal heat source in you crawlspace.
Let’s think about insulation for a second. If I am wearing a big puffy jacket the insulation will help to keep me warm when I am out in a snowstorm, but if my body no longer produces heat because I died in the snowstorm then no matter how much insulation I was wearing my body would still freeze. Putting insulation on pipes that are not moving fresh above freezing water through them will freeze regardless of how much insulation you apply to the pipes. The insulation only works as a buffer to slow the rate of freezing.
Heat Sources include heat loss from the living area of the home, heat loss from the ground that has not frozen, heat from a secondary heating system in the crawlspace, heat from a pipe heat cable. With any of these heat sources the power could go out and your home could stop producing heat, but the insulation on the pipes will extend the amount of time you have to get the power turned back on before the pipes freeze.
Only drip faucets if you are home and if you feel like it is 100% needed. Water in the supply pipes is under pressure, but the water is not under pressure in the drainpipes. That means that water could potentially freeze faster in the drainpipe causing a clog that could crack the drainpipe or cause a backup resulting in the flooding your house.
@@twomoose thanks for the great info. I never thought about it that way…. the insulating pipes part that is. Thanks!!
RV antifreeze
@@twomooseWow, best in-depth reply from a host-expert I’ve ever seen to a viewer’s question. 👌🏼 Thank you! Still confused abt the process but appreciate your willingness to help us.
Insulate properly.
Best video
Good stuff