DIY 2016 + Civic Rear Brake Replacement With EPB Using Honda Tech Manual
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- Today I replaced the pads and rotors on my 2017 Honda Civic. This model has electronic parking brakes which have caused all sorts of problems for DIYers and non factory mechanics. I managed to get a Honda Tech Manual and I show the complete process to service the brakes and EPB without the use of a computer. DIY and $ave your money!!! Full easy to follow instructions.
Good Luck on your repair!
Rob
On behalf of countless people that undoubtedly found this video and used it to save their asses but didnt comment, thank you man. Saved me time, money, and helped me kearn something value able and new about my vehicle. ❤
You’re welcome! Thanks for the comment. It’s always great to get such awesome feedback 👍
Best video I've seen on the 2016+ civic EPB brake system for rear brakes. I just got done switching out brake pads using this method and it worked flawlessly. Thanks for passing on this great info.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Came to the comments to see if this video was the one to start with. This comment secured its position
@@robsgaragewoodworkin did the car need battery disconnect or just leave it off?
@@vaporcloud1363 No. you don’t need to disconnect the battery.
Thank you sir. I Got a $580 US estimate for my ‘16 Civic. I thank you for this detailed, step by step video. Saved me hundreds.
I've been watching many videos for this brake change, and this is by far the easiest to follow and understand. And thank you for the torque specifications from the guy who always breaks something off by over-tightening. Well done, Sir!
@@DC-cq5xl You’re Welcome! Thanks for your comment! Glad everything went well!
Thank you so so much. I was going to take my 2019 civic to the dealer. They were going to charge me 600 dollars. Been working on my cars for over 40 years. Took me 1 Houre to change rear brakes. Thanks again.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
This video will be one of those that gets your new comments each month at least saying how well it worked for the individual. I’m just leaving a comment so the algorithm pushes it out to more people. Thanks for the video and the information. Getting ready to do a rotor and pad change on my ‘18 civic hatchback. Will be using this as a reference point.
Best tutorial I’ve watched. Didn’t have a torque screw for the epb brakes so I used a drill instead.
Lmao I bet it worked too
9mm socket will work also.
Thank you for the amazing video! The mechanic wanted 250 CAD just to turn off electronic brake with a computer. And 1200 CAD total for 4 wheels rotors and pads. I got it done for 700 with a good amount of new tools. Very informative and precise video. Got no problems with the whole job apart from taking out those tough bolts.. i am not a strong guy. I had to leverage breaker bar a lot, still took a while.
Just tried this on a 2016 Civic EX and worked perfectly! Thank you! If you see yourself working on these brakes often, Autel makes a $60 Obd adapter called the ap200 that can put the Honda brakes into service mode. This video was a life saver for a last minute brake change!
Thanks For your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Great work Rob , can you please also make video for front brakes of 2019 civic ex
Thank you
God bless you
@@Pakistan-hg7rp ruclips.net/video/guzc2YeMNuU/видео.html. Already done.
Does the AP200 Work for Honda Crv 2017 and 2016 Civic?
Pardon the noob question but this will be the first time I dabble with an EPB - with the Autel AP200, putting the brakes into service mode, does that mean we don't need to use the e12 torx bit and turn clockwise? That's even if the Autel AP200 works. Seems too good to be true at $55, lol.
Just followed all your steps and successfully changed my rear brakes! Only thing I did differently just to make things easier was I removed the EPD before unplugging to connector. Just gave me a bit more room to get my hands in there! Thank you so much!
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thanks for this. The process went great! I did have a bit of trouble getting the epb socket out, but ended up using an angled pick to unfasten the clip. Regardless, very helpful video!
@@phil3347 You’re Welcome! Glad it went well. Thanks for your comment!
Just followed your instructions to the tee and helped me save over 800 dollars from paying someone else to do it, thanks so much for your videos
Nice! Now you can pay me back by liking the video and subscribing to the channel. 😉
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers! 🍻
Rob
Way ahead of you my man, keep up the great work.
I'm glad I found this video on how to replace the rear brake pads and rotors with EPB on my 2016 CIVIC . This video is all you need. Thank you sir for this video, God bless you. It saves me more than $500. I only spend $214 on pads and rotors. FYI I skipped removing the coupler for the EPB cause it kinda tricky or hard to remove in my case. Just be careful not to damage the wirings while unscrewing and retracting the EPB. So happy when no error code shows up.
Good Work! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Excellent. Just finished changing the rear pads on my Civic and would never have figured out the parking brake motor if I hadn’t watched this first. Thanks for posting.
You're Welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Rob! You killed it in this video 👍 There is NONE OTHER as thorough and complete than your "How To's". Awesome...
That’s high praise! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
thank you Rob for the nice video ,today i did the rear brakes on my sons 2019 Civic , ,i did not disconnect the coupler i try but was hard to come out ,was afraid might damage something so took of the electronic part from the calliper and when i was done with the brakes was very easy to pout it back , was my best fathers day ever lol.
Great video that finally explains how to deal with the EPB without a fancy scan tool.
Thanks, but truthfully I was only following the Honda Tech instruction manual + some personal experience.
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
you can also use a power probe don’t have a power probe then you can make a tool, make a lead wire that connects to the electric parking brake motor from the motor to the 12v battery source it will power the parking brake motor if it’s connected correctly the piston should power on and start spinning after a few seconds once it’s ready to be pressed in. once it’s spinning you then can use a pad spreader or whatever tool you have to push the piston in if it’s connected wrong the piston will power on and start pushing the piston outwards if that happens then reverse the leads you have connected to the motor
@@desmondalers5369 the mechanic i used to work with told me about that. Could u elaborate ?
@@user-hh4hc2lt6e yes when I go to the shop in the morning I will show you the spade connecter and wire needed
@@user-hh4hc2lt6e hey add me to Facebook I can send you pictures I have pictures of the wire I made and use and the pictures of the spade connector needed
Thanks for making the time and effort to share your experience with us. I appreciate your very realistic and conversational approach. When you lubricated the caliper mounting brackets where the brake pad ears slide (at 20:00), I have found that a very effective means to spread the lube is to use an acid brush. Thanks again!
Followed your instructions after watching this and a handful of others videos. Finally found the confidence to do the job after rewatching your video a couple of times. lol. Great video. Thanks for the “help”!
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Totally save my life!!I was trying to figure if ether was not the right pads or I somehow destroy my caliper 😡after this video took me 20 minutes to do the other side 😂
LOL! Yeah. When I first did mine I was thinking, Oh shit! Whats going on here?
Best Civic rear pad video ever! Honda made this shit more confusing than it needed to be.
It's actually a great system that solves a variety of issues. The problem is no one knew how to do it properly and they weren't sharing that information. It's actually quite easy. Don't forget to calibrate the EPB by cycling it on and off 2X like I did at the end of the video. Mechanics everywhere are getting ABS error codes because they don't know that simple crazy important step. Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Thank you Rob, Nice job. I had no problems following your instructions and the installation went without a hitch. Thanks again.
Thanks for a great comprehensive video Rob. You finally managed to show us how to safely back off the rear brake piston to allow for new discs and pads without a computer. Yes, it would be wise to monitor and extract some fluid from the fluid reservoir when pushing the piston back in to prevent over flow. But one trick you can do is push the pedal a few times after you complete one side with the key removed, thereby returning some of the excess fluid back into that brake cylinder. Do the same after replacing disc and pads in the other side to then extract any excess fluid to the Max line. After starting the engine you can pump and test that the EPB works in park to ensure both EPB units work and release by having someone spin each of the rear wheels while the rear of the car is still up in the air. This is the only way to know that both the EPB units are working correctly. My Civic was 4 years old and I struggled to remove the wire harness clip on one side and broke the tab on the other as the plastic seemed so unforgivingly r brittle. Do you absolutely need the snap on clips or can you get away with cable ties to keep the connector attached and replace them each time you need to detach it. Thanks again for a very informative video dispelling the myths behind EPB. Hopefully Toyota EPBs are serviced the same way?
The locking tabs can be temperamental, looks like cable ties for now. Just tight though. Don’t kill it. Don’t worry about the brake overflow. It physically can’t overflow unless someone has overfilled the brake reservoir.
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thank you for this informative video. I replaced my rear brakes on my 2018 si today and followed your video step by step. Besides having trouble removing the rotor screw on both wheels, everything else went smoothly.
Try using an impact screw driver, harbor freight have it with different bits for like 9$ you just hammer it and it gets it loose easily
Watching this video saved me lot of money. Did this job like in 30mins. Thank you!
You have a gift my friend you know how to explain things real good
Yes
Thanks! And thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thank you for showing us the right way to do rear brakes on the Honda electric parking brake system.
Great, Great, Great video and explanation. Done my wife's civic 2017 without issues. Especially excellent explanation how to disconnect, dissasemble and put EPD cover back. It did not come back until like you explained turn little bit hex bolt from motor. Thank you so much. Please keep making great videos.
Good work! Time for a beer!
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
I really appreciate your effort into making this video, very helpful and very detailed, You made it very easy cause I was worried about getting a break light but everything went smoothly
Helping a friend do brakes and I'm glad I watched this beforehand. Cheers!
Have you done it?
@andrewaton3353 Yeah, and it's pretty straightforward as he shows. A few special tools but definitely something you can do if you're handy.
Just changed my pads and rotors by following this video. You are the man! Thank you muchly
Thanks buddy. Your procedure is spot on. I followed it to a T and was successful.
Thanks for the video Rob, very helpful. I have 80000 miles on my 17 civic. The rear brakes were making loud grinding noise. The discs looked really rough, like the shoes were making partial uneven contact , but the shoes had more than 1/4 inch of meat on them. Weird. I changed everything anyway, and lubed it all up, and it sounds so smooth now.
Wheels needed a big rubber mallet to get off as did the discs. Well worth the trouble.
Awesome! What did you do with all that money you saved?
@@robsgaragewoodworkin lol, as soon as I talk with legal I'll let you know. :)
@@vincentl4691 Lol! Better wait for the trial too be over so you don’t incriminate yourself...😂
Really good explanation step by step. Great job there man. Thank you.
Thank you so much rob!
i had an uneven brake pad wear in the right drivers side!
followed your video and i got the job done correctly :) thank you so much! i have no idea how much $ you saved me but im sure it was in the hundreds! :) thank you once again
Very easy to follow and comprehensive guide. Thanks. I hate EPB setups 😀.
LOL! They aren't that bad. Overall a good idea but you have a couple of extra steps for maintenance. Thanks for your comment and Good Luck on your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
This video is really detailed and well informative. Now I have the confidence to do mine in the future. Thank you Rob for uploading this!
You're welcome! Good Luck with your repair!
Thanks for the video Rob. I followed along and had no issues getting my brakes changed over.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback!
Cheers!
Rob
Hey Rob! Thank you so much for this detailed video! I was able to replace my rear pads and rotors with no issues! I know you use a caliper tool in this video, but much like in your video for the front brakes, I was able to use a 4" C-clamp to push the caliper piston back.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thanks for the video. Just replaced my wife's front and rear brakes. Followed all of your steps except disconnecting the coupler because for some reason it wouldn't come off. Still worked out in the end with no brake light.
Awesome! Time for a beer!
Great video! Super detailed and precise. Thank you for including the torque specs. I just did the rear and front brakes on my 2018 Civic Hatchback. I ended up using the Autel MaxiAP AP200 (only $60 on Amazon) to automatically unwind the EPB motor because I was a little nervous to take apart the motor housing and unwind by hand. Thanks!
Nice. I’m going to get a new scan tool eventually. They are finally available with the EPB features.
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
The Autel AP200 (or any scan tool for that matter) only addresses the EPB motor, right? You still have to manually compress the hydraulic piston? This will be the first time I'm tackling a system with an EPB. Did the Autel work well? Seems too good to be true at $55-60.
Rob, thanks a lot for the video. Did my wife’s Rotors and pads yesterday. First one was a nightmare as a rotor screw wouldn’t come off what so ever. I tried your method - no go. Went to the store and got an impact driver , the tip of the driver broke right in.... if it happened to anyone - I used a angle grinder and cut it right through , then used flat head screwdriver and it came off. Second side took just over 30 min as the screw came off at first try.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment! You don't really need the screws, they are there for factory assembly purposes. If they don't come out I just drill the heads off of them normally.
Cheers!
Rob
I just finished doing mine and encountered the same problem with the rotor screw. I initially hammered it in with a #3 Phillips and followed it up with a drill, but the bit snapped. Drilling it out took too long so I opted for using a rotary hammer drill, set it on hammer mode and went to town on the screw until the head of the screw snapped off. Took me about 3 mins.
Thanks for the video. When that special time arrives for my civic, it will help me out a lot. Thank You Again, I appreciate it!!
Hands down the best video I’ve seen. Thank you so much. I agree with every good comment on here keep up the good work, sir.
Thanks Rob for this step by step vedio. Merry Christmas.
Thanks Albert! Merry Christmas!
Cheers!
Rob
Best video! Tool list and clear breakdown
Dang, I wish my 2016 Civic LX had a digital compass like that... great video.
Had to do my girlfriends brakes today. Thank you for making this painless. Easy to follow video
Spot on instructions. Thank you so much for creating this video.
You're Welcome!
With all that salt rust it must be damn risky buying a second hand car in Canada ! Thanks for the informative video. I had a look at my 2013 Civic and thank goodness it doesn't have that damn electronic brake. Also big thanks for the torque specs which is great when they pop-up on screen as you are doing the torqueing. I double-checked with my Haynes manual and the caliper mounting bolt spec in there shows as 17 foot-lbs but you had the actual honda tech worksheet specs at 18 foot-lbs and so is probably more accurate - and the extra foot pound is better safe than sorry anyway. Some suggest using a medium threadlocker on the bolt threads but I think like you I won't be bothering with that as will be torqued properly. Cheers !
LOL! Rust sucks but the body usually lasts as long as the engine. All the car guys I know ditch the thread locker and use anti seize - life in Canada...
Thanks for the video! I was able to change out my rear brakes without any issues.
Awesome Chris!!!
Great video, just done my civic and worked a treat. Thank you 😊
You’re welcome!
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Just spend the past few hours changing breaks. Ty for your awesome explanation for this system. So stupid, why not keep it manual ebrake.
Because then Honda can't charge $600 to replace the brakes
Just did this exact method but didn’t unplug the epb system when I removed it and the parking e-brake dash light is on now. I’ll Jack it up tomorrow and unplug it and plug it back in and hopefully that’ll reset it. Great video tho it was very helpful 👍🏻
I didnt unplug it when doing mine as it was stuck so didnt wanna break it and it was fine tbh
When pushing the brake piston back on the caliper it is a good practice to remove the cover off the brake fluid reservoir and drain some brake fluid out. This will allow the brake piston to be push back more easier and have room for the brake fluid to flow back into the reservoir since the brake system is a sealed system.
It's a closed system. When the car is manufactured the brake piston is at the home position(fully retracted), they add brake fluid and vacuum it through the system, top it to the full line and close the reservoir lid. The brake pistons when activated push out, the brake booster draws brake fluid out of the reservoir pressurizes the system forcing the pistons outward to press against the pads onto the rotors. When you let off on the pedal the system depressurizes and the brake fluid flows back into the reservoir. So when you manually return the brake piston to the home position the fluid level will never be higher than the storage capacity of the reservoir. (unless some idiot filled the reservoir past the full line)
Follow this video and you can’t go wrong. I did my brakes successfully following this video.
My Honda dealership recommended and quoted way too much for all brake pads and rotors (I'm in a major metropolitan center so prices were high). Whether this was actually needed or not, I got it all done by a trustworthy mechanic while I was out of town. They said they needed to get one of the electronic e-brake harnesses replaced, but did not have the part. We were in a rush that day, but they said the car is safe, so we've been driving it with the the dashboard all lit up with warning lights. Since we've been unable to get back there, I went by the dealership to see if they had this one part and could do the job. They came back and said that we need the harness as well as actuators and motors on BOTH sides now and quoted just under $1,000. I feel like they're trying to take me on a trip here... and they're just basing it off what codes were returned on a diagnostic. Any advice from experience working on these brakes? Go back to the first mechanic for the one part, or trust the dealership on this one?
That's a tough call. The E-Brake cable was most likely broken by your mechanic and he should own up and replace that himself. When the brakes are done properly the dash will have no warning lights. This shows the mechanic did not know how to do the job or have the proper tools. (scan tool). He could have done the job without damaging the e brake components but the only way to tell is to replace the harness and reset the brake codes. Now to address where to go... If it was me I'd go back to the first mechanic and see if he can replace the harness and reset the codes. (hopefully he's educated himself on the new e brakes and bought the new scan tool required). But you may not be satisfied and he may not be able to fix the problem which would make me ask for a full refund. If necessary I would then go to the dealership. Best of luck!!!
@@robsgaragewoodworkin, with Honda since 2004, the newer wiring2015& up, can be really brittle/flimsy in some areas, and these rear brake harnesses are particularly weak, so I’d be inclined to go 50/50 on the replacement, because sometimes just touching things will create problems. Just my opinion.
The rear caliper bracket should be torqued to 80 ft-lbs. the 55 ft-lbs spec was for the older gens. the honda manual says 80 ft-lbs for the 10th gen
the EPBA 5mm hex bolts are torqued to 5.9 ft-lbs for anyone wondering
Thanks Rob's, your video it was very helpful..
Steps to avoid EPB error on dash;
-Pump brakes until you get nice firm pedal
-Turn Car to the ON position.
-Hold brake down and apply parking brake AND WAIT until actuator finish it's LONG SPIN. Once it stop..turn parking brake off...(must repeat twice).
-Then turn car off
-No error code.
Took a poop at work to watch this
@@Exit13Boxing time well spent 😂
Thank you for making this video. It helped me big time
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Your video is very nicely done. While you don't mention it in the video I believe there is an o-ring that seals the parking brake motor housing against the caliper. Would you recommend using a gasket pick to remove that o-ring and cleaning up the groove? Then applying a little syl-glyde to the o-ring and reinstalling? Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Hmmm. I didn't with mine. I have to remember to check next time.
Thank you so much for the video! I just did this, and everything went well with the exception of having a grinding noise when I step on the brake pedal. Is that normal?
Nope. That is not normal. Take it apart and find out what it is. Ensure the pads are on correctly and there is no debris between the pad and the rotor. Sometimes a small stone can find its way in between the pad and rotor. I have attached a diagram showing the pads.
www.hondapartsonline.net/v-2017-honda-civic--si--1-5l-l4-gas/chassis--rear-brake
Very helpful thank you so much you saved me a lot of money and time
Glad it helped! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Nice detailed video with great editing. Thanks. A few points. I would use a q tip instead of a nail to smear grease. Better control.
Also tech manual says to replace epb o ring and screws but I would say it isn’t necessary
Would you agree especially since those parts could cost 50$. I assume is to prevent moisture.
Great video. I think I'm going to save me some money..Thank you so much..
Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Very well explained, thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Guau guau!!! Súper nice vídeo!!! Thank you soooo much.
Best video thanks for sharing and also nice setup your garage 👍
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Hey Rob, As others have said you seem to be the only one with a complete video for this process. I got one side done by just using the caliper wind back tool. but the other side is giving me trouble. I rotated the piston as far as it will go with the tool but the caliper wont fit over the new brake pads. Does removing the EBC allow you to retract the piston a little more than using the wind back tool?
After it’s wound back completely you can press the piston in by turning the nut on the wind back tool. Or you can press it in using a c clamp. People had all sorts of issues using the tool so I removed my video of it and redid it using the Honda instructions where you remove the EPB and wind back the piston from the other side.
Very well done video. Thank you very much. I carefully followed it on my 2017 Civic EXT and didn't have any trouble (no brake light afterwards).
What I did notice is that when I jack up the rear of the car and I give the rear wheels a good spin with one hand, it only makes a little bit more than a whole turn after I released them... when it should be around 2.5 times if I am not mistaken. I am saying this because I noticed the drop in MPG... I guess because there is some increased friction on the rear brakes. What steps would you take to troubleshoot this scenario? Grease the caliper pins? Thank you in advance.
The problem was the caliper's pins. I greased them better this time and I also greased all the other brake parts. I am getting +50 mpg on my 2017 Civic EX-T!!!
You can see the "wheel revolutions" test here: ruclips.net/video/0wX7ISUY3hk/видео.html
This video shows how I greased the front brakes as an example: ruclips.net/video/Cr7v6KarX6A/видео.html
Well done and very helpful video!
Thanks for your comment! Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
best vedio bro, u explained it very well, gud job, keep it up
Thanks! And thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Awesome video!
Greetings Rob, Today I replaced the discs and pads on both wheels. The biggest problem was finding a 7mm Allen key; I have Makita set, Proxxon, and some others, none of which had a 7mm Allen key, but the local mechanic loaned me one🙂. The second problem was removing the disc; I struggled there, but managed with WD-40 and tapping between the screws holding the wheel🙂. I would sincerely ask you to forward me the service manual, because i cant find it on internet and one I found seeks password that doesn't work.
@@bobanmunja I found the instructions for brakes only on a Honda Reddit site. The Allen sockets were a set from Canadian tire. The set I have has both metric and imperial. This is a metric set I found online
canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-3-8-in-drive-hex-bit-socket-set-9-pc-metric-0589653p.html
Great video! Informative,thanks
Thanks!
Great video. Thank you very much.
23:47 the torque for new clean screws (no anti-seize) is 5.9 LBF-FT
Thanks for this well explained video! Should I put brake grease on the back side of the brake pads or is this unnecessary? Also, is disc brake quiet equivalent to brake grease?
Thank you so much sir!!
You are welcome!
Thanks buddy.. Worked for me!!!
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Hi, is it possible you can post that Honda tech sheet specs that you have so I can follow them thanks
Thank you Rob!
You’re welcome!
amazing jobs, thanks man...
Hey Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
thank u very much i persume i can do dit with the european civic to only the last step is not clear at all how to turn assocoires mode and do i first pump brake pedal before reset and i understand parking brake was off in first place. and what can i do when i get a fault.
most greetings from europe great work
I've been doing brakes since the 60s, and everyone knows you can just use a C-clamp to push the piston back in. Well, you can't in this case - thank you Honda. It's always something with you guys. Now I have to look up how to replace a broken and leaking EPB unit. Hopefully I won't break the one on the other side, too.
Did you try to compress the caliper without removing the electronic parking brake actuator?
@@markb1511 In my case I did unscrew the parking brake first. Then I tried to use a C-clamp and it slipped punching a hole from the back. I bought a used unit online and, basically, subbed the entire unit for the used one. Saved about $200 versus new parts, and the new parts would have had to be assembled. The used parts were ready to mount and then bleed.
I have seen rear disc brakes that have a mini drum incorporated into the disc for a parking brake, but my understanding is that you can’t just use a C clamp on a calliper equipped with a parking brake, whether it’s got an electric actuator or a cable. My Elantra had a cable parking brake that closed the calliper and it needed to have the piston screwed back in while it was being compressed. You couldn’t just stick a C clamp on it like you could with the front callipers
Very nice video 👍🏽
Is there any video about the rear brakes ?
THANK YOU
You mean the front brakes?
ruclips.net/video/guzc2YeMNuU/видео.htmlsi=qSpzUg8CEoRBCq8N
How to know if im turning the electronic parking brake the correct way. I know you said clock wise but its hard to tell which way
@@3390974 watch the video and turn it the same way.
Really helped me out! Thx
Glad it helped!
Not Philips it's a JIS #3. Very easy with a Japanese-made JIS screwdriver
Great video man!
Awesome! Thanks for your comment and good luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Probably the most detailed rear brake video from this car. But I have a question: is it necessary to disconnect the electric cable from the small electric motor?
No. I never unplug mine. As long as car is off. E brake is disengaged and you don't mess with E brake button obviously you'll be fine. I guess if there was a Break in the wire maybe it could engage on its own due to malfunction of damaged wires.
good yob sir, saludos de CDMEX MEXICO.
Thanks Alberto! Feliz Navidad!
Cheers!
Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkin z xd facetime z
I have a 2016 Civic LX Manual. Do you disengage the EPB before starting on the rear breaks?
Yes you ensure the parking brake is off. Then you have to retract the EPB before you push the brake piston back. You can do it manually or with a scan tool. I have a video for both methods.
Can you tell what the torque is. You mentioned inch/lbs and foot/lbs. Can you clarify? Also shouldn't the brake fluid reservoir lud be opened to atmosphere first?
Foot pounds. (Worked in too many different industries). You don’t actually have to open the reservoir lid. (I used to think that too)
please help!!I Im only replacing the pads, do I really need to remove the rotor??
That's like buttering 1/2 a piece of toast or changing 2 out of 4 spark plugs. You should replace the rotors and lubricate the caliper slide pins too.
Which way retracts the piston. I know you said clockwise but my turns both ways
@@3390974 clockwise like in the video
One more question, some pople use anti seize between the caliper brqcket and brake pad. Youve used the included brake grease. Does it really matter what one uses? The copper based anti seize i have can handle 1800 deg F, or 990 deg. Celcius. I assume the brake grease included is also high heat? Also wondering if much dust/dirt is attracted to the exposed vracket grease .
Brake grease is for the areas that need lubricant. Anti seize is so you can remove nuts, bolts, spark plugs. That sort of thing. I’m in Canada so I use a little anti seize on the nuts and bolts.
Very in depth and informative video! Question about the electronic parking brake. The mechanism is completely separate from the brake pedal, correct? I'm wondering because I'm getting ready to flush the brake fluid for the first time and I want to make sure the parking brake doesn't turn off as I bleed the fluid.
Yes you are right. Just cycle it on then off to ensure its not engaged for the brake fluid flush.
Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Hey Rob question regarding brake flush ... I did my brake flush on my 2016 civic and the parking brake WAS ENGAGED during the entire flush .. should I be worried ?? Or should I do it all over again with it off ?? THANKS IN ADVANCE!
@@bettyguzman7130 Ok, that is a good question. I’m a little picky so I would pop the rear wheels off, disengage the parking brake and just try to bleed the 2 rear brakes. You are probably fine but I would double check - just in case.
Thanks, brakes are beginning to squeak and needa change them out soon. Does it matter if the e-brake is engaged or disengaged when you take it apart?
The brakes EPB should be disengaged so you can remove the caliper.
Good Luck on your repair! Remember the last part of the video to calibrate the EPB when you are done the repair!
Cheers!
Rob