How to Batten a wall the easy way
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- Опубликовано: 30 окт 2023
- Batten a wall the easy way with some tips and tricks that I cover in the video, also try this method when you next try to do a batten out job on a wall, it makes it super easy
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Robin, between you and a select few RUclipsrs you’ve taught me to build 2 entire additional storeys onto my bungalow. Every video you do is used to help me. I had no experience prior to this and I’m not fully watertight and battening out walls !!! Thank you
And I bet you the quality in your work beats many out there doing it for a living
@@tw8633 haha your right. That’s what’s made me realise I couldn’t do it for a living ! The balance between care and time taken must be almost impossible to achieve. One has to give over the other ? Thanks though mate I’ll take that as a compliment!
I work on sites mate the standard of work is terrible @@tw8633
Love what robin does but that wall could off been dot and dabded/ dry lined within 15 min labour and at less cost. Just needs a bit of plasterboard adhesive mixed up board cut to size etc etc etc. for the end consumer ie your client doing it robins way is going to be more labour intensive and not as cost effective . I know he says why it’s not dot and dabbed but its only a meter section of wall 🤦🏻♂️ dot and dab also wouldn’t lose as much of the internal floor space.
👍👌👏 The only trouble with working off the floor is that, wherever you go, they always put the floor so low down! 🙄😖🤣
Not when you are Robin’s height he is half way there….. 😅
I am more Ed’s height and I thought that is along way away…..
My first thought also was I’d just dot and dab the brickwork section but got to admit that’s a much nicer job 👍🏻
I’m ex-military, have done a city and guilds carpentry course. These videos are invaluable! Kind of like a RUclips apprenticeship.
Hi Fraser, glad you like the videos mate and thank you for your service
Fantastic video Robin!
Top job again Robin
Robbin you just keep getting better, your like the UK equivalent to the US 'Essential Carpenter' 🙂
That is such a nice compliment!! He's a legend!!
Great video Robin
Well done good to see a good Chippie
Good timing! I'm doing a batten wall next week!
Such a nice result, well done Robin
Great video Robin showing us great tips. Another great educational teaching points.
Love watching RD working and thinking a head to make life simpler. Lots of little tips as well.
Very good system.. nice tools too
Great video Robin, makes so much sense and simplifies the process of trying to pack individual battens, just done something similar 👍
Thanks Rob. I need to board the inside of my outbuilding and this will be ideal! Just need to learn about what membrane and insulation to use now!
Nicely done Robin. Great solution to an out of plumb wall. 👍👍
Just like that !....you make it look so easy lol
Thoroughly enjoyed watching that, and filed away those processes for later use. Thanks for sharing.
Simply lovely how you share your skills with us, very helpful Robin. Cheers, Bert.
Thanks Robin & Ed, very handy lesson, one for the files as it will come in handy one day. Cheers guys.
Great video mate. Very helpful 👍
lol. Just about to tackle an identical situation in own home, this couldn’t have came at a better time. Now I’ll keep this to myself and my mates will think I’m a genius 😊
Thanks Robin, another Glaswegian here
Would never have thought of doing it that way. Great job man.
Lovely dog. 😍
That was a real pleasure to watch. How nice to have so much space to work in too.
You are such a gentleman sharing your knowledge with us, I just wish you could have put this video out a couple of years ago 😂 I really struggled to get my wall and ceiling straight level and plumb by one batten at a time 🤬 brilliant video 👍
Brilliant video. Feel confident now to get my project underway. Thank so much for sharing
Great video !!!!!!! thanks
Fantastic 😊😊😊
Love your videos as always robin! You’re a big inspiration to me thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you so much!
Brilliant thank you
Love watching you work you are a genius with wood
Thank you so much 😀
Great video Robin, I hope to build my own house soon so will be checking out more videos!!! 🙂
If I was going to do a carpentry apprenticeship it would have to be with you because your processes are simple your quality excellent and your knowledge is 100%. Keep up the great work
Yes, ear defenders take it from one who has Tinnitus 24 / 7 just to re-iterate it never goes from industrial noise over several years.
Just a constant F# at a very high pitch.
Thanks for the detailed explanation Robin. I wish you built my house. 👍
Thanks, Robin, for months of milling about over what to do in my own house. I totally overlooked this idea. Legend, thanks again.
Thank you Robin, watching your videos is always a pleasure because of your way of presenting and for all the incidental little bits of hard won experience you share!!
You are so welcome!
Great to see this - it all seems so obvious when you explain it! Thanks for sharing all those tips. I'm framing a wall before putting up plasterboard, so really helpful 😁
Glad it was helpful!
Thank I was looking for a video like this. This is full of knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
Very neat job. Best part of the day, having the sable Cocker Spaniel come and check on your well-being. A good day 😁
I’ve packed out plenty of batten walls, never done it this way… but will now - cheers Robin
Great video content as always. Never thought about drilling from one side for a pilot, then screw from the other side to make sure it lines up right. Awesome tip there. Thanks 😊
The time absolutely flies by watching this type of content! I picked up so much from this vid - thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
So good. So so good. Thx man from Ireland
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome work at speed! Wish I could find a carpenter like you who sees the bigger picture and does structural solutions and doesn’t just want to make a fast buck with mdf cupboards
I liked the brickwork.
Thank you kind sir for sharing your skills
Your welcome Shaun
So glad I watched this before starting my drylining project, am convinced this is the best way to go about it - many thanks for another excellent video.
Thanks Julian!!
Thank you
I love these videos, I’ve learned a lot from them and would like to thank you for taking the time to make them. Anyone just starting out in the trade this Chanel can help you a a lot and is invaluable in its knowledge, I fully recommend 👍🏽
Thanks mate
Good video and interesting technique. I would’ve dot and dabbed the brick wall and made sure the PB extended well over to the stud wall so I’d install a couple of sheets landscape to avoid cracks appearing.
The only person I trust who uses screws for framing
Interesting video, along with the longest spirit level I've ever seen. Looks like you install the plasterboard vertically over there. Here in Australia, we usually install it horizontally.
Love your videos! You are my go to for carpentry. I'm off to batten a wall as opposed to dob and dab. 😃
Thank you Robin, I'm about to build a soundproof wall in my home studio and needed this exact information. You've presented it in a clear and easy to follow way. Can't wait to get started now, cheers!
Your welcome Matt!!
Good info here I do get good results but I do individual battens the pre build is better cheers
Love you videos, You have so many tools by different manufacturers how do you decide which ones you will be using?
Hi Robin , another simple video to follow👍👍😃😃, I find those brick/concrete screws a pain they damage the brick or wall to easy, I use framing Rawl plug and screw all in one , just a masonry bit for hole into wall, hit the Rawl plug into wall with hammer no messing around with different drill bits to fix ,what ever size your fixing is the size drill bit, and just unscrew with a Pozi driver .
Very vert smart and intelligent 👍👌👌👌👌👏👏👏👏
I did this for weeks and weeks many years ago. It almost made me change careers.
You have hidden such a beautiful wall.
Unavoidable, the new Kitchen completely covers it!!!
There are still a couple of issues you need to take into consideration. First is, you will always get flex at the point of joining so plasterboard should never butt up at a joint between brickwork and studwork. The other issue I found out the hard way is sound proofing is impossible with dot and dab and on framed plasterboard, you need to ensure there are zero voids and fill with something like rockwool slabs.
Thank you, 30 mins just flew by. Really insightful and so useful to help bridge what I learnt in college with real life on site situations. Is the short corner brace in the bottom left of the main stud frame there for strength or to help plumb the frame?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Robin Many people give up on DIY after getting frustrated when things do not work out Your procedure's Make it easier for people to learn,Check , Plumb and square as i was taught Well done Regards from NZ
Use the same method. Sometimes I’ll clamp the level/straight edge to the stud work to save holding it whilst packing the batten. I’m not personally a huge fan of those fixings. Plugs can be a faff but they’re far stronger in my opinion. Especially into softer substrates. Great video as always.
Very good Robin, I would say when I first started the only thing available was a Rawl Drill that was hammered into the brick then carve the plug from a piece of wood with a knife hahaha So yes this is much easier.
One other point, was the screw that you almost caught you head on at 31:16 left there as a cup holder of coat hook haha.
Always good to watch your vids. My wife said, "I wonder where Ed is" and you said, "here's Ed" as though you heard hahaha
Quick tip I only buy packer sizes 1mm 2mm 5mm and 10mm as they can make up all the widths needed. Cheers keep up the good work .
I'm very much a novice at this stuff but have bought a Fixer-Upper and have got to learn! This channel might be just what I need! Thank you. I really enjoyed watching this☺️
Welcome aboard!
Having lovely plumb, flat, true walls makes a kitchen install soooo much easier and, in fact, longer-lasting.
Great video, but I would still dot and dab that wall as I think it's faster. I'd install the plasterboard horizontal, so the sheet landed on the studs and the masonry so there was no vertical join between the substrates. Doing this also gives you the stud wall to tap off, guaranteeing it stays plumb and flat
Use expanding foam down back wood makes super strong
The thing I notice on all your videos is you still love doing the job. Good on ya mate 👍🏻
Yep I really enjoy my work!!
Fantastic video as always. On the video you have created a framing for that specific space. If you are doing a full room what size frames would you use? Assuming there is a maximum size.
Thanks
Should be done by Christmas mate😁😁😅😂
Coming along nice Darren 👌
I've never thought of building a frame when battening a wall with lath. It's a no brainer when you see it done.
In a different situation, on a party wall for example, I wonder if you could use a different fixing method to improve sound insulation?
spot on. The plastic folding wedge packers speed this up even more but they're a bit pricier.
I make my own tapered timber shims from scrap 4"x2" approximately 8" long on a table saw with a jig, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
i so wish i would have seen this about six months ago when i was trying to straighten a Victorian brick loft wall. So simple
I used this technique today, with a slight twist. I am battening a bathroom wall (DIY), but there isn't enough floor space to build on the floor like this - so I cut all the pieces first and assembled it up against the wall, without attaching to the wall. Then, with the perimeter assembled, I packed, drilled and screwed to the wall. I reasoned that the essential benefit of this technique is really that the assembled frame holds all the pieces in the right place, like a load of extra hands, making it dead easy to get the fixings in without having to hold the battens yourself. It was really easy, and perfectly flat at the end!
Well done Andy!! You smashed it today!! I feel super happy when I get a message like yours, you mention the fact that you are a Diy'er but.. that does not mean that you don't have great ability, common sense and good hand eye coordination that is what you need to become skilled at this kind of task!! I would love to see a picture of your result maybe pop one over to me on Insta!! Well done
Thanks Robin, it's really kind of you to give me such an encouraging reply! I will post some pics once I'm a bit further along - when one of my RUclips "heroes" asks to see my efforts, I'm going to make sure I've got something good to show :D
genius
One other question - let's say the wall you were battening on to was old Victorian plaster, so you couldn't see the brick coursing. Would you havk off all the plaster so you could see the bricks and centre your fixings, or leave the plaster on and take your chances?
The first potential solution (plastering) is always a bad idea anyway because no matter how well you think you join it, there will always be a likely vertical crack where the materials meet.
Why not just put a board over the join? On side dabbed the other side fixed
@@ninety1464 I think here because the wall was not plumb.
@stepbackandthink doesnt matter, you can dab a board square if the masonry is 2 inches out of plumb or more. And as he described you'd just build your studwork using the outermost point of the masonry wall as the datum
I’m not disagreeing with you.
He doesn’t trust the plasterers (wise)
I have done it this way and just dot dabbed over which is much quicker.
Looks like the floor is newly laid to raise level so probably above doc level so need to add more under battens
Will you be doing a review on the Dewalt DCS 781 mitre saw?
Great video thank you - out of interest is there a reason you don’t clamp the level to the stud wall to free up your hands around 27:30?
As usual another great video. Question: Would those battens have enough depth to accommodate a back box deeper than 25mm?
we can use a 38mm back box as the batten is 25mm and we will have 15mm plaster board and skim and the back box will finish just back from the skimmed surface, if we need to put a deeper box in we would chase some of the masonry out
Excellent help and advice A few questions please if possible. I am about to drywall some walls in a house in north Italy. I have some rising damp that I would like to treat 1st. Can you recommend a good product, that I might inject into the walls. And the concrete screws, are they readily available and if so, can you recommend a place to purchase them.
Regards
Desmond
Robin, have you ever worked with metal studwork? I had never really thought about it before, but discovered it is actually the norm in residential properties in France to completely build them out of metal, and it kind of baffles me that we don't use it more here. Metal never warps, never bows, is always true (these points are especially important as someone dealing with an old house - it makes me hate wood!) and it doesn't rot or decay (also great for a rainy climate like ours). About the main con I can think of, it is that it is absolutely terrible for insulation, transferring heat about 400x more than wood. But if you're building a metal framed house from scratch, you could account for that with external insulation and a warm roof.
I suppose you could also add on that the quality of wood in recent years is becoming utter crap, something you don't need to worry about with steel.
If you had aa 30ft long wall would you make up several frames and what would be the maximum width you would make each one.
Great video. Was it an external wall or an internal wall? I've got to batten a room and a small part of it is external, can I do this on the external wall and if so should I use moisture resistant plasterboard? Its about 1.5 m2 in area.
Gypline lad and expansion joint where 2 substrates meet ,other way ,6a on roof 6a on floor place top hat @ 400 centers pack behind and with packers bonding or expandion foam ,
This is good but time consuming,
Loads of ways to do the same job,
100 % for effort,
Keep it up
For old buildings with an unfilled cavity would you use metal or wooen battens?
Try putting a pouch on the right hand side of your Diamond Back rig Robin. That way you can holster your 12v impact or drill/driver. I do most of my drilling and driving with a Bosch 12V impact and Bosch 12v drill/driver. I usually have one of them holstered like a side arm on my right hand side. It's always there when i need it, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
I need to adjust my rig to enable that, I had a belt clip on the M12 Milwaukee but It fell of and that was great as it hooked on the pouch!!!!
@@ukconstruction Indeed, if you switched over to the post type battery Rather than the platform type. The 12v impact and drill/driver's fit better that way. To be clear I'm not telling you what to do, just thinking out loud, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
perfection, thank you for making these videos so enjoyable and informative
Glad you like them!
Master
.. could show block n line from new wall frame to internal brick corner top n bottom thus showing you could use your built timber thickness chosen substrate to build out with Packers forming straight flat plumbness off brickline, if that makes sense.
Have you tried expanding foam grab adhesive instead of packers? Squirt the foam then tighten screw down until battern is level then nip up when foam is solid. Ok if you have other jobs to while waiting.
I use it all the time.. brilliant stuff
Great job Robin and nice camera work Ed,
I have recently been tasked by she who must be obeyed, to half wood panel a bedroom wall, would you recommend this technique for that type of job, bearing in mind it’s an 18th century home with very uneven walls.
Absolutely in most cases, but if your wall is really bendy and you pull it through straight when setting out pop a block of batten at either corner and pull a line and when you find the tightest/proudest spot, mark the amount on and off cut of batten against the line and this will the amount the either end of the wall battening will need to be held of by to get it nice and straight, hope that helps and good luck!!
Nice job,have you ever used gyplyner system ,it’s quick and easy.
Those little M12 Fuel impact drivers are astonishing. Light and easy to use even with the 6Ah battery, sometimes the M18 is overkill, I quite often reach for the M12 tools instead of my M18, for most electrical work they are perfect. For bigger timbers and such then I'd use the M18.