A 25mm washer between wood and coach-bolt head will give a better distribution of pressure onto wood. A well made video with good directions. Well done!
Great video again. I've found that I can't hold a long bit of wood sready enough to reliably mark all the holes at once. I've "missed" on some too often. What I do is mark and drill the first hole and attach the batten. Then mark the rest while the batten is firmly held, remove the batten (or some times just slacken and turn it out the way) then drill the rest. I get a better sucess rate that way. Also, when finally fixing the batten I loosely fit all the bolts first so I can move it to get the other three in without problems before tightening them all. For drilling, you do not necessarily need and SDS drill, but you do need a hammer drill with a masonary bit. It is true that, with larger bits in a Jacobs chuck can slip, but it will work. For marking the holes I prefer wittnessing the wall through the hole with a small size masonary bit (in a drill of course). With my old eyes a pencil mark can be hard to find. The tape trick works for wood bits too as does using one of those rod depth gauges. drilling straight square (perpendicular not non round) holes is an art in itself that I get right only about 75% of the time.. How do you cope with that?
I do the same re fixing the top end first and marking the other holes. This is also the time to use a level to check for vertical, not after the holes are drilled. I agree SDS drills are useful but not essential for this job.
Nice video. Personally, I always drill small pilot holes as I find it is tricky to stop larger bits wandering across the surface of hard materials like bricks.
Using a marxman marker is an alternative to Tracer pencils especially on surfaces where pencil does not show up well, the green spots stand out on nearly all surfaces.
It’s worth mentioning that if you are going to measure the depth of hole be certain that the screw or bolt will fit. If you only drill the depth of the plug then sometimes you will have problems with longer fixings. Great video 😊
Awesome content, from all the DIY YT'ers out there, you're the most thorough one and easy to follow for beginners. Thanks for bringing this awesome content!
You can also use concrete screws/bolts. You can drill the pilot hole straight through the wood into the brick/block/concrete with a masonry bit and then put the bolt in with an impact driver. No need for plugs and less chance of cracking concrete, especially if you are near the edge. Great channel, love the content and presenting style.
I've just made a large wooden gate and attached the post to the side of the house with concrete screws like you said in your post. I asked the builders suppliers what he recommended for my job and he gave me 6mm ones ( 16mm long) to attach my 10mm post. It appeared to do the job but unfortunately the weight of tbe 3 m gate has pulled them within a few days. I think I'n going to have to change up to something heavier. ( Yes all 4 holes were in the red brick, anf not the mortar, before you ask.)
@@trevorbest-gn2dq For something with that kind of weight it pulls laterally, use wedge anchor or sleeve anchors (galvanised external job so 100mm is maximum length in galv)
This is such a useful video. I have already used it to fix upright metal verticals to support a lattice fence on a garden wall. And I’m using it again today to work out how best to fix the oak timbers Ive had cut, to make a fireplace surround. This latter project needs to look good, as well as fix tightly and safely, so I’m going to set the bolts a little deeper than you suggest, and find another video to teach me how to make oak dowels to cover the bolt head and blend with the timber. I’ve also got to be very careful not to split or crack the old bricks. Thanks for a very practical video - and for covering the “do I drill into brick or mortar?” issue, which I had wondered about. I really appreciate the no-nonsense presentation. I loathe the music, logos, and usual nonsense in so many folks’ channels these days. I hope your channel goes from strength to strength.
This looks like the best method for most mansory materials. I’ve always found thunderbolts to be a bit of a faff tbh, nothing beats a good old nicely fitted plug and coach bolt. But I must say for really soft old stone, concrete screws work really well as they cut a thread into the stone and don’t cause cracking and can easily tighten up nicely.
This was beyond helpful. I'm going to make a wooden fence and gate across my basement for my rabbits enclosure. The walls are brick and I had no clue how to start. I think I'll fill the hole at the end with wood filler to hide the coach bolt head.. Thank you! 👍
My previous house was an old Victorian one built from relatively soft bricks and soft lime mortar. Fixing anything to a wall (plus through thick soft lime plaster) could present problems that could not be solved by using any type of plastic plug because of oversized cavities. I found that the best way to solve it was to cut a piece of scrap wood slightly larger than the hole, make a point on it and then hammer it in and saw off flush. Then screw directly into it without drilling a hole.
Hi, just subscribed to your channel. I have always used this method until recently. I had to fit a very heavy awning canopy to the side of our house. I used masonry/ concrete screws. No plugs required and a super strong fixing.
Great vid, what I do as well is use a penny washer, it gets an even stronger fixing but it’s more chew as sometimes you’ve got to core the washer out to fit the screw/Coach bolt
Great video exactly how I do it. The only difference is that I’ve discovered Marxman for marking the drill holes rather than tracer pencils. I found the fluorescent Green easier to see.
Good video. Another suggestion is to blow out the dust from the hole you’ve just drilled, and just before putting the bolt in, apply some liquid nail into the hole, and then the sleeve anchor.
A straightforward and informative video with no BS, the steps very clearly outlined and understandable for a beginner. I subscribed and am going to binge watch the rest of your channel. 👍 😃
@:Mosey: Ferocious. Some viewers may have no experience at all and need a guiding hand. When learning something new I prefer too much info - rather than being left to guess when something is not obvious or explained in detail.
Nice video thanks for the time you take on helping out your viewers, only thing I seen I would do differently here in the USA is use treated timber our codes don’t allow us to install non treated timber on any concrete surfaces including brick , thanks again.
I did some framing work and used Multi Fix Concrete Screws which were easy to use with a solid bite. No need for plugs. I suppose it depends on what the framing work is for. Mine was only for stud work on a feature wall that had to be built out.
Such a bespoke way to put up some timber that will not be visible! The effort and passion is inspiring. But as a general contractor I would have a migraine if I saw this one site though. Take the stud, line it up, drill with a concrete drill straight through the wood into the wall to the correct depth, take a nail plug and beat it in with a hammer. Repeat. Next stud.
Amazing mate cheers. Question-- Are you not concerned with having your timber tightly against the brickwork? Asking in regards to mould or moisture build up behind the timber--as that doesn't look like treated pine and there isn't any sort of vapour barrier or sealing on the back end. Just wanted to get your thoughts. Another pro tip for that electric tap--Instead of tearing it off, leave 10 cm hanging off like a flag before you rip. Much easier to see as it spins round.
Any plug I have used in the past has mentioned that the screw must protude the plug by x amount. So the depth of the hole should take this into account.
Excellent video and instruction, thank you. One caveat on drilling the brick. If it has a traditional ‘frog’ then no problem, but if it is a modern cheaper brick, it may just have 6-8 round holes for the frogs. If you drill into one of these then you lose some of the integrity required for the plug to expand onto.
Silly question. I have 12mm bolts and need to buy the spade drill. Is the head size of my boss the same as yours and will a 25mm be the right choice? Cheers
Great video! Question, will this process work on old stucco house exterior? What USA bolt would you recommend, I don't think you bolt are found here? Thanks for the feedback!
I like your electrical vids and learn a lot but this was a propper amateur job. Recess good, washer, thunderbolts through middle of brick, done. Can also use the Hilti 2 part resin system, throughbolts as people have mentioned but I've never had trouble with thunderbolts
Great video however I think some advice is missing here in terms of the diameter of the coach bolt versus the right Wall Plug. For example, if using a 10mm coach bolt , would you select a 10mm rawplug (or the next size up) such as 12mm. Your video shows you offering up a 12mm wallplug however i didnt see you mention that this would be because the viewer might not know that coach bolts are assumed to be 10mm. Great vid though none the less 🎉
Have you done a video for using Rawlbolt Sheild Anchor - Loose Bolts? As a DIYer need to put up some Gallows Brackets which will support concrete tiles so needs to be very secure. Thank you,
Nice video; you have another subscriber… thanks for posting. I do it slightly differently, because I don’t much trust my measuring and marking. I’ll prepare the top holes as per your video. I’ll then snug the post up into position, hanging it from the top fixing, and nudge it into vertical. I’ll then use a small-bore dill bit and drill through the post and a tiny bit into the wall, just to mark it. This way it’s also easy to avoid mortar, if you want to, and makes the use of concrete screws possible. I then remove the post from the wall and make the remaining counterbores and through holes. I might make the new through holes a couple of mm oversize, again to compensate for my incompetence and give me a bit of wiggle room. The penny washers Charles Renwick suggests help out here! Then drill the rest of the holes in the wall, plug, and put up post, tweaking the alignment if necessary. One final thought - make sure that the projecting screw isn’t longer than the plug, otherwise you’ll have to drill the wall to the depth of the screw, not just the plug.
Being on the block work does the timber need any sort of protection from the wall absorbing moisture/water from outside and rotting the timber attached to it? Or causing mould on the plasterboard once finished?
Brilliant mate......love to see the end product. I am about to line out my garage so this has helped. Just need some info on appropriate wall covering and damp membranes etc. Cheers bruv Dave👍
Frame fixings yes, but they require you avoiding mortar joints in brickwork. I use them when fitting doors or windows mostly. I quite like the resin fixings, they do the job well but I guess I'm more old school and the coachbolt and plug method has NEVER failed me and is more user friendly for the DIYer
I have same concept but timber is horizontal in the wall and not verticle with RawalBolt, Now I want to give it a suport with steel underneath the timber to give extra support so t hat I can build a ceiling, what would you suggest? should i give extra support with steel joist or double the amount of rawlbolts? I am trying to attach two timber 47*150 mm to the wall opposite to each other and then hang 10 joist on those two timber with the help of the hanger and then cover it with edge osb. but someone told me that either I should double the number of bolts or give a support with steel bar as explained above but my joiner thinks there is no need for it. any Sugessions? Thanks in advance
A 25mm washer between wood and coach-bolt head will give a better distribution of pressure onto wood. A well made video with good directions. Well done!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can’t believe he didn’t washer it tbh
Your 100% .. the washer is the right job
Would you have to make the initial hole larger to accommodate the washer?
@@justintemp, the recess was made with a 25mm bit so the 25mm washer will fit
Great video again.
I've found that I can't hold a long bit of wood sready enough to reliably mark all the holes at once. I've "missed" on some too often. What I do is mark and drill the first hole and attach the batten. Then mark the rest while the batten is firmly held, remove the batten (or some times just slacken and turn it out the way) then drill the rest. I get a better sucess rate that way. Also, when finally fixing the batten I loosely fit all the bolts first so I can move it to get the other three in without problems before tightening them all.
For drilling, you do not necessarily need and SDS drill, but you do need a hammer drill with a masonary bit. It is true that, with larger bits in a Jacobs chuck can slip, but it will work.
For marking the holes I prefer wittnessing the wall through the hole with a small size masonary bit (in a drill of course). With my old eyes a pencil mark can be hard to find.
The tape trick works for wood bits too as does using one of those rod depth gauges.
drilling straight square (perpendicular not non round) holes is an art in itself that I get right only about 75% of the time.. How do you cope with that?
I do the same re fixing the top end first and marking the other holes. This is also the time to use a level to check for vertical, not after the holes are drilled. I agree SDS drills are useful but not essential for this job.
Nice video. Personally, I always drill small pilot holes as I find it is tricky to stop larger bits wandering across the surface of hard materials like bricks.
👍
Using a marxman marker is an alternative to Tracer pencils especially on surfaces where pencil does not show up well, the green spots stand out on nearly all surfaces.
It’s worth mentioning that if you are going to measure the depth of hole be certain that the screw or bolt will fit. If you only drill the depth of the plug then sometimes you will have problems with longer fixings.
Great video 😊
I watch a lot of DIY videos and this guy, is hands down the best DIY guy I have ever come across! bets DIY videos!
Awesome content, from all the DIY YT'ers out there, you're the most thorough one and easy to follow for beginners. Thanks for bringing this awesome content!
That's exactly what I try to deliver. Thanks for your comments 👍
Clear presentation and instructions explaining 'why' as well as 'how'. Good camera work and editing. Great instructional video.
You can also use concrete screws/bolts. You can drill the pilot hole straight through the wood into the brick/block/concrete with a masonry bit and then put the bolt in with an impact driver. No need for plugs and less chance of cracking concrete, especially if you are near the edge. Great channel, love the content and presenting style.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I've just made a large wooden gate and attached the post to the side of the house with concrete screws like you said in your post. I asked the builders suppliers what he recommended for my job and he gave me 6mm ones ( 16mm long) to attach my 10mm post.
It appeared to do the job but unfortunately the weight of tbe 3 m gate has pulled them within a few days. I think I'n going to have to change up to something heavier. ( Yes all 4 holes were in the red brick, anf not the mortar, before you ask.)
@@trevorbest-gn2dqwell 10 mm wood and 16 mm screw sounds like problem if i was using it i would use atleast 20mm screw minimum but more likely 30 up
I think he just missed the zeros,was meant to be 100mm post and 160mm screws
@@trevorbest-gn2dq For something with that kind of weight it pulls laterally, use wedge anchor or sleeve anchors (galvanised external job so 100mm is maximum length in galv)
This is such a useful video. I have already used it to fix upright metal verticals to support a lattice fence on a garden wall.
And I’m using it again today to work out how best to fix the oak timbers Ive had cut, to make a fireplace surround.
This latter project needs to look good, as well as fix tightly and safely, so I’m going to set the bolts a little deeper than you suggest, and find another video to teach me how to make oak dowels to cover the bolt head and blend with the timber.
I’ve also got to be very careful not to split or crack the old bricks.
Thanks for a very practical video - and for covering the “do I drill into brick or mortar?” issue, which I had wondered about.
I really appreciate the no-nonsense presentation. I loathe the music, logos, and usual nonsense in so many folks’ channels these days.
I hope your channel goes from strength to strength.
This looks like the best method for most mansory materials. I’ve always found thunderbolts to be a bit of a faff tbh, nothing beats a good old nicely fitted plug and coach bolt. But I must say for really soft old stone, concrete screws work really well as they cut a thread into the stone and don’t cause cracking and can easily tighten up nicely.
This was beyond helpful. I'm going to make a wooden fence and gate across my basement for my rabbits enclosure. The walls are brick and I had no clue how to start. I think I'll fill the hole at the end with wood filler to hide the coach bolt head.. Thank you! 👍
Your videos are so clear and easy to follow. Thank you for your time, excellent as always
Thanks a lot. Glad you like them
i like to do a pilot hole with smaller masonry drill bit i find it helps guide the larger drill bit more accurately
My previous house was an old Victorian one built from relatively soft bricks and soft lime mortar. Fixing anything to a wall (plus through thick soft lime plaster) could present problems that could not be solved by using any type of plastic plug because of oversized cavities.
I found that the best way to solve it was to cut a piece of scrap wood slightly larger than the hole, make a point on it and then hammer it in and saw off flush. Then screw directly into it without drilling a hole.
Interesting little tip there. If it works it works 👍
spot on used myself many times.
Yes always keep a bit of wood in my tool box plus a tablet of soap for the screw
Hi, just subscribed to your channel.
I have always used this method until recently.
I had to fit a very heavy awning canopy to the side of our house. I used masonry/ concrete screws. No plugs required and a super strong fixing.
Thanks for subscribing
Great vid, what I do as well is use a penny washer, it gets an even stronger fixing but it’s more chew as sometimes you’ve got to core the washer out to fit the screw/Coach bolt
👍 cheers
Thanks mate! Replacing our old gate that’s joined to the house soon and this will really help!
Brilliant, your welcome
Great video exactly how I do it. The only difference is that I’ve discovered Marxman for marking the drill holes rather than tracer pencils. I found the fluorescent Green easier to see.
👍 thanks
Wow, i cannot stop watching your vids
Good point about concrete screws into mortar. Try a Marxman spray marker too, even better than a tracer in those situations. ✌️
My guy already done this trick with moving my fence worked a treat
👍
Good video. Another suggestion is to blow out the dust from the hole you’ve just drilled, and just before putting the bolt in, apply some liquid nail into the hole, and then the sleeve anchor.
👍
This is like the ‘For Dummies’ books, but better as it’s visual and excellently presented. Still waiting for the loft lighting video 😊👍 Superb
Cheers! Its on my list and I promise I will get around to it soon
A straightforward and informative video with no BS, the steps very clearly outlined and understandable for a beginner. I subscribed and am going to binge watch the rest of your channel. 👍 😃
Haha thankyou
😂 always one
@:Mosey: Ferocious. Some viewers may have no experience at all and need a guiding hand. When learning something new I prefer too much info - rather than being left to guess when something is not obvious or explained in detail.
Great video…explains all in layman terms..thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks teacher
Great video as always, you are fast becoming one of the best DIY RUclipsr's in UK. Thank you and keep up the good work!👍
Really appreciate the comment 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 great
Nice video thanks for the time you take on helping out your viewers, only thing I seen I would do differently here in the USA is use treated timber our codes don’t allow us to install non treated timber on any concrete surfaces including brick , thanks again.
Very welcome. Always interesting to hear the regulations in other countries 🙂
Very useful. I was just wondering if these fixings apply to breeze block?
Nice method, just a washer would improve load spread!
And a nod to the Tracer pencil, they are Ace! 👍
Absolutely loving your videos mate, so helpful. You got yourself a new subscriber.
Thanks for subscribing 👍
What a great video so easy to understand ordered that pencil right away to make it even easier to do
I did some framing work and used Multi Fix Concrete Screws which were easy to use with a solid bite. No need for plugs. I suppose it depends on what the framing work is for. Mine was only for stud work on a feature wall that had to be built out.
Absolutely depends on not only.the application but your preferred method.
What a wonderful clear easy to follow video Thank you!
Such a bespoke way to put up some timber that will not be visible! The effort and passion is inspiring.
But as a general contractor I would have a migraine if I saw this one site though.
Take the stud, line it up, drill with a concrete drill straight through the wood into the wall to the correct depth, take a nail plug and beat it in with a hammer. Repeat. Next stud.
Brilliant video. Neat job.
Cheers bud 👍
Amazing mate cheers.
Question--
Are you not concerned with having your timber tightly against the brickwork?
Asking in regards to mould or moisture build up behind the timber--as that doesn't look like treated pine and there isn't any sort of vapour barrier or sealing on the back end.
Just wanted to get your thoughts.
Another pro tip for that electric tap--Instead of tearing it off, leave 10 cm hanging off like a flag before you rip. Much easier to see as it spins round.
Another cracking video!
Thanks a lot Ross, always appreciate your comments and support
Thank you for your very useful guide.
Really enjoy your videos. Easy to follow.
Excellent tutorial.
Many thanks!
Great vid! Just watch that damp course if you’re drilling downwards..
Any plug I have used in the past has mentioned that the screw must protude the plug by x amount. So the depth of the hole should take this into account.
Excellent video and instruction, thank you. One caveat on drilling the brick. If it has a traditional ‘frog’ then no problem, but if it is a modern cheaper brick, it may just have 6-8 round holes for the frogs. If you drill into one of these then you lose some of the integrity required for the plug to expand onto.
Well said!
Great tutorial
Silly question. I have 12mm bolts and need to buy the spade drill. Is the head size of my boss the same as yours and will a 25mm be the right choice? Cheers
Brilllllliant mate!
👍
Only recently found you channel, and I'm impressed, have watched a couple of your videos and I will definitely be coming back for more, Thank You.
I'm glad you like my channel 🙂
Great video! Question, will this process work on old stucco house exterior? What USA bolt would you recommend, I don't think you bolt are found here? Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent video. Thank you
I like your electrical vids and learn a lot but this was a propper amateur job.
Recess good, washer, thunderbolts through middle of brick, done.
Can also use the Hilti 2 part resin system, throughbolts as people have mentioned but I've never had trouble with thunderbolts
This video I give it 10 out off 10,
Cheers
Great video however I think some advice is missing here in terms of the diameter of the coach bolt versus the right Wall Plug. For example, if using a 10mm coach bolt , would you select a 10mm rawplug (or the next size up) such as 12mm.
Your video shows you offering up a 12mm wallplug however i didnt see you mention that this would be because the viewer might not know that coach bolts are assumed to be 10mm.
Great vid though none the less 🎉
Whats the hand tool called that you used to screw the bolt into wall???
Amazing simple videos that help a lot...great work
Glad it helped
Amazing brother trust me you explained so well 💪
Thanks, glad you enjoyed
Was always a screw/countersink fella, hard work with 3x2". This looks firmer & more straightforward. Need a socket set now, thankyou for sharing 😃
No problem 👍
Love the Diy video's your making. Keep them coming. Thanks
Thank you! Will do!
To add even more place a correct sized washer in the hole it spreads the load evenly
Thank you very well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Have you done a video for using Rawlbolt Sheild Anchor - Loose Bolts? As a DIYer need to put up some Gallows Brackets which will support concrete tiles so needs to be very secure. Thank you,
Simply awesome
What about expansion, what about damp? etc? Love the trace pencil, I'll get one.
Exactly a video i was looking for. Thank you.
Great as usual
Great Video 👍really helped when playing yo build my media station in the lounge
Glad it helped
Great explanation!
Thanks
You're welcome!
Can ye use this on a block wall ,as they are quite soft ? Cheers
Thanks. Good DIY Stuff!!
Super nice work thank you
Nice video; you have another subscriber… thanks for posting.
I do it slightly differently, because I don’t much trust my measuring and marking.
I’ll prepare the top holes as per your video. I’ll then snug the post up into position, hanging it from the top fixing, and nudge it into vertical. I’ll then use a small-bore dill bit and drill through the post and a tiny bit into the wall, just to mark it. This way it’s also easy to avoid mortar, if you want to, and makes the use of concrete screws possible.
I then remove the post from the wall and make the remaining counterbores and through holes. I might make the new through holes a couple of mm oversize, again to compensate for my incompetence and give me a bit of wiggle room. The penny washers Charles Renwick suggests help out here!
Then drill the rest of the holes in the wall, plug, and put up post, tweaking the alignment if necessary.
One final thought - make sure that the projecting screw isn’t longer than the plug, otherwise you’ll have to drill the wall to the depth of the screw, not just the plug.
Thanks for your comments
Being on the block work does the timber need any sort of protection from the wall absorbing moisture/water from outside and rotting the timber attached to it? Or causing mould on the plasterboard once finished?
I like your channel, have seen quite a few of your videos, so I subscribe to support. Always good to have helpful DIY tips. Thanks.
So you do not need anything between the wood and the brick, like a thin layer of insulation to act like a gasket, or maybe some silicone?
After drilling hole in cement or brick, use an air compressor to blow out the drilling debris from the hole, before tapping in the anchor plug.
Hi will coach bolts hold as well as rawlbolts I would rather use coach bolts as easier to remove im putting a porch on a brick wall.
Super handy, thank you.
Glad it helped
Great video! Would this also work for very soft 70s aerated blocks?
Do you need a sds drill? Would a normal drill with a hammer function do the same job. The material is brick
Great content and easy to follow. I think weekly or fornightly videos would be great even if it is small diy jobs.very easy to follow.
Hi. Thanks. I currently do fortnightly videos 😃
I often just use my drill on gear 2 with hammer mode, whats the benefit of sds for a relatively shallow hole?
Very helpful thanks for explaining all so well in detail,it makes more sense 😀
Glad you found it helpful
Have you got links for the bolts and plugs please,
Is it necessary to use treated timber? Thank you
Brilliant mate......love to see the end product. I am about to line out my garage so this has helped. Just need some info on appropriate wall covering and damp membranes etc.
Cheers bruv
Dave👍
Thanks 👍. Good luck with the garage project. There's so many options with regard to DPM
Is it an issue if the coach screw has threads all the way? Also, is that an m10?
Another great video where did you buy the coach bolts and wall plugs from.looking forward to the next stage.keep up the good work 👍
I got them from Screwfix but you can grab them anywhere really. Spend a little time planning the length of bolt and plug that you need.
Will 10mmx70mm coach bolts be ok. Using the same wood as you got there. Thanks
Never had a dad to show me this so thanks bud
Any time 👍
Great tips. Thoughts on frame fixings or resin anchors? Would you recommend these? Thanks as always.
Frame fixings yes, but they require you avoiding mortar joints in brickwork. I use them when fitting doors or windows mostly. I quite like the resin fixings, they do the job well but I guess I'm more old school and the coachbolt and plug method has NEVER failed me and is more user friendly for the DIYer
I have same concept but timber is horizontal in the wall and not verticle with RawalBolt, Now I want to give it a suport with steel underneath the timber to give extra support so t hat I can build a ceiling, what would you suggest? should i give extra support with steel joist or double the amount of rawlbolts? I am trying to attach two timber 47*150 mm to the wall opposite to each other and then hang 10 joist on those two timber with the help of the hanger and then cover it with edge osb. but someone told me that either I should double the number of bolts or give a support with steel bar as explained above but my joiner thinks there is no need for it. any Sugessions? Thanks in advance
Thanks for the good video
That was easy 👍🏻 thanks you have just saved me from hiring a joiner 👍🏻
No problem 👍
Would you be able to use the same process to fix a wooden shed to a concrete base?
Hi can I use this method to hang something on a wood that behind it is a brick wall? like in a closet that is in front of the brick wall?
Uhm does drilling through the wall or floor not cause cracking? or perhaps extensions of cracking in the future?
Isn't there supposed be 50mm space between the walls for stud wall fixings?
2nd Q
I'm doing DIY loft what size wall plate would I use?
Is this method more solid than using an anchor wall bolts?
What if you dunt have an SDS drill, will a black n decker with hammer action do?