ok this is a great tutorial, however, the number 1 setting is terrible, i did the same print and i used the number as per your instructions and bambu labs instructions and it just look like a bunch of red blotches everywher. so i redid the print using solid cmyk and wow what a big difference a perfect print. i was totally amazed at how the cmyk colours merged and made green made orange for flames. so personaly the solid cmyk is better and not the esun as you say the number 1. i hope someday you tube allows us to post stuff to replies because i wish i could show. so cmyk solid for me all the time
I decided to try this on my new Bambu A1. It worked very well, except for a little confusion on the color settings. This was a quirk with the A1, which I have since corrected. The process proved to be very easy and the accessory parts were easy to obtain as well. I think I am going to have a lot more fun with the Lithophanes. Thanks for making this video. I have found your videos consistently helpful and refer to them regularly.
Also better results with a .2 nozzle. But as I 100% failure rate with a .2(clogging/bulging), I’ll be sticking to .4. I’ll give palette 4 a whirl tho. Cheers.
Jim, Thanks for showing the process. I have my kit from Bambu and the LED back panel, just have not gotten around to trying it. I have been too busy with the HueForge prints. Now I can try color lithophanes
First print came out great! Was wondering what the other palette selections are? Would they produce different shading/colors/imaging? I'm using generic CMYK filament, not bambu's brand. Should I be using another palette selection?
Great video but can you clear something up please? At 4.20 in the tutorial you say to change the lirst layer height to 0.15 but the video shows you changing the first layer under the line width tab and not the line height tab. Please confirm which is correct.
This is amazing. Just ordered the filament kit using your link! Hope it gets here in time to print some xmas presents! Going to find that same star wars picture for the first one I think.
I've got a heavily modified ender 5 plus as my only 3d printer. I love the thing since I built it and when it's working it works absolutely great but I'm kind of over having to constantly tinker with the thing. I am strongly considering an X1C but also hear a bigger one maybe on the horizon. Hard decisions here, Jim!
I too have a heavily modified Ender 5 Plus, and recently got a P1P w/ AMS. Any buyer's remorse will be annihilated once you see a Bambu Lab printer chuck out a Benchy in the time it takes to take a shower.
I was in a similar situation a few weeks ago, I have an Ender 5 Pro with all the standard upgrades (BL touch, glass bed, dual extruder, etc.) but always had to mess with it to get it to print right and still have issues with dimensional accuracy when the prints look ok. It was a really hard decision, but I went with the X1C with AMS and have been printing for a little over a week now. It certainly isn't without issues (especially the AMS ) but overall I am very happy with it. I may post a video soon comparing the prints between the E5 and X1C and go over my experience with it so far if I have time.
Just do it, I have a ender 3 s1 pro running on klipper I tinkered with for last year. I got a bambu several months back it's impressive to say the least. Light years ahead from the enders not having to tinker with bed leveling and all he others constantly is so nice.
Hey Jim! My first Bambu printer, a P1S, is arriving tomorrow. Sooo...on a bambu printer we don't print lithos standing up anymore? I figured I wouldn't have to orient the litho in the direction of the Y-axis anymore since it's not a bedslinger, but I figured the best resolution would still be standing up.
In this case, it is multiple colors layered on top of each other, so it would be printed laying down. If you were doing a regular lithophane was a single white or any other color then standing up would be great. I Have seen it done both ways and I think there's two schools of thought on that.
I'm always curious about the print times, what was it for the star wars color? Also I'd be interested in seeing the time lapse of the lithophane vs the the frame itself as the lithophane is a much unique style of printing
I'm getting errors with manifolds in the models produced by lithophane maker. I simplify each part and can sometimes repair them in Orca, but not always. I then try slicing it and Orca gets to 15% then hangs there. I've let it run overnight and it still never finishes. Any tips? For what it's worth, the Hueforge lithophanes sometimes cause the same issue. It seems to be detail of the parts related?
can we do this on a printer without MMU/AMS/CFS? I know that it'll be cumbersome to change filament manually but if there's a way of finding out which color filament when, then that'll be okay IMO.
Very helpful video! I am trying to print one with the CMYK on my X1 Carbon and I keep getting the error "Invalid spacing supplied to Flow::with_spacing()". Have any ideas what could be causing that?
How do these look in a fully lit room? is it possible to make larger prints(i.e. modify the frame stl )? I know the led backlight is what it is though.
Hi Jim, I have just purchased the Bambu CMYK KIT. can we use any white for the diffusor I have the Bambu PLA tough white, as they are out of stock of the PLA white standard
Of course you don't have to use the colors from Bambu. They will be the easiest with the RFID chip. But as long as you have calibrated everything right, any color matching filament will do the job
I have made three very cool lithophanes following your instructions and using the 4mm nozzle. Since the new update Nothing is sticking to the heat bed and 1 globed up my hot end. I can't set first layer less than 2.9 the slicer keeps giving me a flow path error. Please help was trying to make a xmas present for my parents.
This is def cool and great video as usual brother! The only issue I see is print quality as lithos are meant to be printed upright rather than flat. Have printed lithos for years and flat def takes away the print quality. Have you tried this process but with it standing upright and comparing results?
I haven’t made any of these yet but have heard the same about orientation. My guess though is for color, having it vertical would require exponentially more filament swaps. So it would take a lot longer and more waste. But that’s just my educated guess.
Hey Jim! Great video! I have not been able to find the file for the Frame, and also I do not see the LED panel any where. Do you know if its still out there? Thanks man! Love the channel!
If you lower the lithophane resolution (1st option) its a bit more clear (sharp) but takes longer to print. at least in the 5 i tested ... I only did .20
Orca changes everything. I wcould not get Bambu Studio to slice all 4 colors. I did the exact same files in Orca now I have all 4 colors. I would have never thought Orca would be better than Bambu.
quick question i did mine with the settings and color thats required but instead of being white where it would be sticking front of picture frame its blue any idea why?
That would increase the amount of purge filament from color changes dramatically. It might be better standing up for one-color prints, but definitely not for multicolor prints.
How does this actually print? Is it constantly swapping colours or printing one at a time? How much poop does it generate? How many manual changes would you end up doing if you did this without the AMS?
I'm in the process of trying one right now. generated 25x25mm to be small in hopes of quick small initial test print to see how it's looking. 459 filament swaps for a total of 15h and 3m! You definitely need an automated filament system for this. And I'm quickly starting to feel like screw this..
yeah, I'm curious with the color shifting waste, and the extra expensive filament, how much one of these costs in total. They are cool, but seems like it would get costly
I was wondering the same! When I zoomed into the stats it said the cost was a dollar and some change and then number of filament changes was 17. Not too bad, but print time was estimated at just shy of 11 hours. Still cool though
Why is the lithophane printed flat? Usually for the white lithophanes, they're printed standing up since the resolution is higher on the z-axis vs the x-y axis.
Is base height the same as first layer height? I don't have that option for non color... The setting are slightly different.... I've been using a different software for mt lithophanes but I'm interested in the frames offered so I thought id give it a try.
Great video dude, what sized nozzle did you use for the print? I have just come from my old trusty and very slow cr10 printing lithopanes on a 0.2 nozzle
Do you have a video or know where I can find how to adjust the Z offset on my A1 mini? It appears to be printing with the nozzle to close to the bed. Just carious, why do you use Orca rather than the Bambu Labs slicer? I just installed it and it looks very much like the Bambu labs slicer but there must bae a reason(s).
Just got the bambu P1S and I cannot figure out how to properly print a lithophane even on just one color - when I go to slice it - the background disappears - new to the P1S and to orca slicer
I have a Bambu x1c. Doing color lithophanes. I tried vertical , failed due to warping. Went flat and can't get first layer to be even with a constant flow, I'm using a .4 nozzle and followed the guidelines. What the guide doesn't provide is speeds. Especially first layer. Any help
When going thru the website to create the stl, it wont load a preview image and also the zip file only contains a text file and no stl files. Any idea how to fix this?
hi, thanks for the video. i am trying on bambu studio and when i slice playe it is saying Invalid spacing supplied to Flow::with_spacing(). i am printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and tried every layer height available. thanks
the Colors you would need are CMYK. Cyan Magenta Yellow blacK they can be used to "mix" any other color. this is the same way 2d printers or paper color printers work.
I'm having an issue where lithophane maker is only giving the .txt file and none of the .stl files. is anyone else having this issue? i really need some help with this since I don't know what else to do.
Did you forget the link in the description? "There is a link in the description below to take you right to the lithophane color page but ...". There are no links containing "lithophane" as the time I am writing this. Cheers. (I would add the link here but then my comment would likely get deleted by some dumb bot.)
I think I’m probably missing the point, but wouldn’t you get better & faster results just printing the picture with a regular inkjet printer and putting it in a light box? Is it just the fact that they are white when the light is off, and the picture “magically” appears? You can get that effect with a real printed photo too, just put a extra sheet of paper in front of it 😉.
@@TodestelzerI guess you don't get question right. He wanted to print a white Lito, so same Effekt. But it is an old school technique to print the colors on a regular white paper and put it between the white Lito and the light source
Can I get some help please when I create a Lithophane I get a error (non manifold edges) can you help me please? I have a P1P and are using Orca Slicer.
Not that bad. Actually! Only enough to purge between filaments and a small amount in the back between filaments. Quite minimal but the lithophones are also not very tall so that helps!
CMYK Filament Pack: shrsl.com/45eqq
LED Panel: shrsl.com/45eqp
Bambu Lab Printers: shrsl.com/45agu
CMYK Instructions and STLs: wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/CMYK-color-lithophane-printing-instructions
ok this is a great tutorial, however, the number 1 setting is terrible, i did the same print and i used the number as per your instructions and bambu labs instructions and it just look like a bunch of red blotches everywher. so i redid the print using solid cmyk and wow what a big difference a perfect print. i was totally amazed at how the cmyk colours merged and made green made orange for flames. so personaly the solid cmyk is better and not the esun as you say the number 1. i hope someday you tube allows us to post stuff to replies because i wish i could show. so cmyk solid for me all the time
Dude, it blows my mind out... Thank you very much for this!
I decided to try this on my new Bambu A1. It worked very well, except for a little confusion on the color settings. This was a quirk with the A1, which I have since corrected. The process proved to be very easy and the accessory parts were easy to obtain as well. I think I am going to have a lot more fun with the Lithophanes. Thanks for making this video. I have found your videos consistently helpful and refer to them regularly.
this is awesome, so cool of Bambu Lab to make this kis and the frame and lights available. And so cool of you to make such a detailed tutorial!!!
We use 3d printers to print 2d prints. We have come full circle lol
😂😂😂😆
I love it
I can't wait for my highly advanced 3D printer to tell me "can't print, low on cyan"
Too bad the opposite isnt possible
I lol’d
Always appreciate a clean and concise video walk through. Thanks for your time!
Do you recall what the file type and size of the file you used to the example. The zip file I get only has the settings file. No STLs.
This was SOOO helpful. Very clear directions and explanations. THANK YOU!
OMG this is freaking awesome!!! great choice for a picture to print, classic!!!
Super cool video and love your enthusiasm - thanks for sharing!
Also better results with a .2 nozzle. But as I 100% failure rate with a .2(clogging/bulging), I’ll be sticking to .4. I’ll give palette 4 a whirl tho. Cheers.
same, i am not sure why my 0.2mm just doesn't want to work with ams. it print nicely with single colour tho.
brilliant, do you have a video on the non-colour version?
I did not expect to be this good
Cool one Jim.👍 Liking those Led Panels. Haven't done a color litho yet. Will definitely check them out.
Jim, Thanks for showing the process. I have my kit from Bambu and the LED back panel, just have not gotten around to trying it. I have been too busy with the HueForge prints. Now I can try color lithophanes
First print came out great! Was wondering what the other palette selections are? Would they produce different shading/colors/imaging? I'm using generic CMYK filament, not bambu's brand. Should I be using another palette selection?
for printing these with PLA, do you recommend standing up or laying down? Which provides better clarity in your opinion?
Sooooo cool. I see a potential for portraits, etc.
For sure!!!
Great video but can you clear something up please? At 4.20 in the tutorial you say to change the lirst layer height to 0.15 but the video shows you changing the first layer under the line width tab and not the line height tab. Please confirm which is correct.
This is amazing. Just ordered the filament kit using your link! Hope it gets here in time to print some xmas presents! Going to find that same star wars picture for the first one I think.
Awesome!!
That is so sick! I have to give a couple of these a go.
I've got a heavily modified ender 5 plus as my only 3d printer. I love the thing since I built it and when it's working it works absolutely great but I'm kind of over having to constantly tinker with the thing. I am strongly considering an X1C but also hear a bigger one maybe on the horizon. Hard decisions here, Jim!
I too have a heavily modified Ender 5 Plus, and recently got a P1P w/ AMS.
Any buyer's remorse will be annihilated once you see a Bambu Lab printer chuck out a Benchy in the time it takes to take a shower.
I was in a similar situation a few weeks ago, I have an Ender 5 Pro with all the standard upgrades (BL touch, glass bed, dual extruder, etc.) but always had to mess with it to get it to print right and still have issues with dimensional accuracy when the prints look ok. It was a really hard decision, but I went with the X1C with AMS and have been printing for a little over a week now. It certainly isn't without issues (especially the AMS ) but overall I am very happy with it. I may post a video soon comparing the prints between the E5 and X1C and go over my experience with it so far if I have time.
@RosenrotVosa Right! 😂 As soon as that benchy started coming out my jaw dropped, looked over at my Ender 3 S1 Pro and apologized.
Just do it, I have a ender 3 s1 pro running on klipper I tinkered with for last year. I got a bambu several months back it's impressive to say the least. Light years ahead from the enders not having to tinker with bed leveling and all he others constantly is so nice.
I love my new Bambu P1S except for the fact that absolutely nothing sticks to the bed without glue stick.
Hey Jim! My first Bambu printer, a P1S, is arriving tomorrow. Sooo...on a bambu printer we don't print lithos standing up anymore? I figured I wouldn't have to orient the litho in the direction of the Y-axis anymore since it's not a bedslinger, but I figured the best resolution would still be standing up.
In this case, it is multiple colors layered on top of each other, so it would be printed laying down. If you were doing a regular lithophane was a single white or any other color then standing up would be great. I Have seen it done both ways and I think there's two schools of thought on that.
I'm always curious about the print times, what was it for the star wars color? Also I'd be interested in seeing the time lapse of the lithophane vs the the frame itself as the lithophane is a much unique style of printing
In the video you can see it's roughly 11 hours just for the lithophane.
what gives you the better color the paper method or multi color method?
not ready to spend the money on the cmyk kit filament.
but deffinatly doing this somewhere down the line.
Great video, clear and concise, huge help
Can you print one vertical position and tell us how long it will take to print? (0.12 layer height if possible)
So given the LED panel doesnt come with a cable at all.... what cable or link to cable did you use in the end to power it off the pack.
Did you ever find a good solution?
Great video. 👍🏼 You mentioned a link to Jason murph? Which link is it?
I'm getting errors with manifolds in the models produced by lithophane maker. I simplify each part and can sometimes repair them in Orca, but not always. I then try slicing it and Orca gets to 15% then hangs there. I've let it run overnight and it still never finishes. Any tips? For what it's worth, the Hueforge lithophanes sometimes cause the same issue. It seems to be detail of the parts related?
Awesome Video! Thank you for the how to!
😎🔥
Hi Jim,
When we get the 4 stacked STL files do we leave them stacked on the plate or do we separate them for printing ?
When you drop them in all at once in the plate, choose YES when the pop-up comes up. That will leave them all together.
I keep seeing filament CMYK bundles and some have black and some have white? what is the difference for lithophane printing? Thanks!
can we do this on a printer without MMU/AMS/CFS? I know that it'll be cumbersome to change filament manually but if there's a way of finding out which color filament when, then that'll be okay IMO.
Very helpful video! I am trying to print one with the CMYK on my X1 Carbon and I keep getting the error "Invalid spacing supplied to Flow::with_spacing()". Have any ideas what could be causing that?
How do these look in a fully lit room? is it possible to make larger prints(i.e. modify the frame stl )? I know the led backlight is what it is though.
Hi Jim, I have just purchased the Bambu CMYK KIT. can we use any white for the diffusor I have the Bambu PLA tough white, as they are out of stock of the PLA white standard
tough white works fine, used it before
Thanks dir the good instruction! Really Looks cool!
Has anyone found the same or similar LED panel someplace other than BBL, they are out of stock (thanks Jim :-)
How many colors did you use there? And do you have to use bambu filaments?
Of course you don't have to use the colors from Bambu. They will be the easiest with the RFID chip. But as long as you have calibrated everything right, any color matching filament will do the job
I have made three very cool lithophanes following your instructions and using the 4mm nozzle. Since the new update Nothing is sticking to the heat bed and 1 globed up my hot end. I can't set first layer less than 2.9 the slicer keeps giving me a flow path error. Please help was trying to make a xmas present for my parents.
Nice litho and nice work. I'll subscribe for sure.
#3 color instead of 1 gives a better looking image. Gets rid of any yellowness
This is def cool and great video as usual brother! The only issue I see is print quality as lithos are meant to be printed upright rather than flat. Have printed lithos for years and flat def takes away the print quality. Have you tried this process but with it standing upright and comparing results?
I haven’t made any of these yet but have heard the same about orientation. My guess though is for color, having it vertical would require exponentially more filament swaps. So it would take a lot longer and more waste. But that’s just my educated guess.
This looks terrific. I was UNABLE to locate the link to the "FREE" Lithophane Picture Frame. Help!
The CMYK Instructions and STLs link has the file in the wiki under "frame and light guide plate printing".
Hey Jim! Great video! I have not been able to find the file for the Frame, and also I do not see the LED panel any where. Do you know if its still out there? Thanks man! Love the channel!
Never mind Jim! It’s on the Bambu Wiki! I found it. Thanks again!
Aaaaaand just noticed the shirt. That's friggin hilarious LOL
If you lower the lithophane resolution (1st option) its a bit more clear (sharp) but takes longer to print. at least in the 5 i tested ... I only did .20
This is super cool!
At 4:22 you say change first layer height to .15 but you type it in layer width.
thank you so much for this!
Orca changes everything. I wcould not get Bambu Studio to slice all 4 colors. I did the exact same files in Orca now I have all 4 colors. I would have never thought Orca would be better than Bambu.
I uploaded some free stl lithos to printables. night light style
quick question i did mine with the settings and color thats required but instead of being white where it would be sticking front of picture frame its blue any idea why?
I've read it's better to print them vertically instead of laying them flat. I'm just a beginner but does it make any difference?
That would increase the amount of purge filament from color changes dramatically. It might be better standing up for one-color prints, but definitely not for multicolor prints.
Thanks for the vid, ordered a bundle though your link
How does this actually print? Is it constantly swapping colours or printing one at a time? How much poop does it generate?
How many manual changes would you end up doing if you did this without the AMS?
I'm in the process of trying one right now. generated 25x25mm to be small in hopes of quick small initial test print to see how it's looking. 459 filament swaps for a total of 15h and 3m! You definitely need an automated filament system for this. And I'm quickly starting to feel like screw this..
That is amazing! How thick is the print and how much wastage do you get from the AMS? I'm thinking not a lot because its not too many layers
yeah, I'm curious with the color shifting waste, and the extra expensive filament, how much one of these costs in total. They are cool, but seems like it would get costly
I was wondering the same! When I zoomed into the stats it said the cost was a dollar and some change and then number of filament changes was 17. Not too bad, but print time was estimated at just shy of 11 hours. Still cool though
Why is the lithophane printed flat? Usually for the white lithophanes, they're printed standing up since the resolution is higher on the z-axis vs the x-y axis.
In the video, the final product didn't look very bright unless the lights in the room were off. What say you about the brightness?
At 4:20 you are talking about first layer height, but you are changing the first layer line width. Is this a mistake?
What’s the print time for that size and settings with .2 nozzle ?
Can I use this filament on my A1? SUNLU CMYK Lithophane PLA Filament
How long do these take to print?
Is base height the same as first layer height? I don't have that option for non color... The setting are slightly different.... I've been using a different software for mt lithophanes but I'm interested in the frames offered so I thought id give it a try.
Great video dude, what sized nozzle did you use for the print? I have just come from my old trusty and very slow cr10 printing lithopanes on a 0.2 nozzle
0.2 nozzle, he mentioned it in there
Do you have a video or know where I can find how to adjust the Z offset on my A1 mini? It appears to be printing with the nozzle to close to the bed. Just carious, why do you use Orca rather than the Bambu Labs slicer? I just installed it and it looks very much like the Bambu labs slicer but there must bae a reason(s).
Does color with highlighter on white work?
Just got the bambu P1S and I cannot figure out how to properly print a lithophane even on just one color - when I go to slice it - the background disappears - new to the P1S and to orca slicer
This all so cool. Will say tho that the frame looks janky, the light shines through the side of the frame. But it's free I guess.
I have a Bambu x1c. Doing color lithophanes. I tried vertical , failed due to warping. Went flat and can't get first layer to be even with a constant flow, I'm using a .4 nozzle and followed the guidelines. What the guide doesn't provide is speeds. Especially first layer. Any help
When going thru the website to create the stl, it wont load a preview image and also the zip file only contains a text file and no stl files. Any idea how to fix this?
Awesome thanks!
I went to Bambu to order the light panel but was unable to add it to my cart? Do you know if they are just out or have stopped making them?
They still make them but they sell out fast. Keep checking back, I just got some delivered today.
ok so i don't have a bambu or a mmu. i am trying to print one. how do i know the color order?
where do i get the picture frame from please
Where did you get the file for that clock in the back corner? Thank you
Pretty cool. Non-color lithophanes print more crisply standing up…
I think you forgot the link to the frame STL...
Thanks! I have put it in the description, and also as a pinned comment! I appreciate the heads up!
I don't see the link for the frame,
You crop the photo while making the lithophane. Couldn't I just resize the Lithophane in bambu lab ? I want to use the whole photo.
Couldn't get it to work with the .2 nozzle, first layer doesn't stick and the build plate is clean.
Use a glue stick, that's what I do, it still turns out really good
Why use Orca over BL slicer?
hi, thanks for the video. i am trying on bambu studio and when i slice playe it is saying Invalid spacing supplied to Flow::with_spacing(). i am printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and tried every layer height available. thanks
Having the same issue, any update on how to fix it?
Am I doing something wrong? When I use the site it only gives me a 400+B file with a text file in it instead of STLS.
The site doesn't generate STLs with every image format. JPEGs worked for me.
And as a bonus, after you print one of these, you have made your own floating plastic island in the middle of the pacific ocean!
Bambu Slicer keeps trying to "repair" file then it closes the program.
How do you know what colors to put in the ams?
the Colors you would need are CMYK.
Cyan
Magenta
Yellow
blacK
they can be used to "mix" any other color.
this is the same way 2d printers or paper color printers work.
I'm having an issue where lithophane maker is only giving the .txt file and none of the .stl files. is anyone else having this issue? i really need some help with this since I don't know what else to do.
Just fyi..you are going through changing the initial layer height, but what you do in the video is change the initial line width...
How To Make Amazing Color Lithophanes Using The Bambu Lab CMYK Bundle!
When I hit Show Expected Image no image pops up
Did you forget the link in the description? "There is a link in the description below to take you right to the lithophane color page but ...". There are no links containing "lithophane" as the time I am writing this. Cheers. (I would add the link here but then my comment would likely get deleted by some dumb bot.)
could have seen the lithophane being printed
I think I’m probably missing the point, but wouldn’t you get better & faster results just printing the picture with a regular inkjet printer and putting it in a light box? Is it just the fact that they are white when the light is off, and the picture “magically” appears? You can get that effect with a real printed photo too, just put a extra sheet of paper in front of it 😉.
A lithophane isn’t a normal picture. You have to see it yourself. It looks a lot better because it emits light 😅
@@TodestelzerI guess you don't get question right. He wanted to print a white Lito, so same Effekt. But it is an old school technique to print the colors on a regular white paper and put it between the white Lito and the light source
Can I get some help please when I create a Lithophane I get a error (non manifold edges) can you help me please? I have a P1P and are using Orca Slicer.
As you can see in the video, same thing for him, also same for me
Idk what causes this but i guess you can just ignore it
@@MrPotatoeAim Thank you for your reply. I will try this and see.
@@ron9581 generated one yesterday and sliced it and had no errors or further warnings but didnt print it because im still busy drying the filament xD
The cyan in the CMYK pack isn't cyan, it's more azure. Which ruins the colour accuracy
Crazy!! I'll have to check it out! Thanks!
How much waste filament ?
Not that bad. Actually! Only enough to purge between filaments and a small amount in the back between filaments. Quite minimal but the lithophones are also not very tall so that helps!