I agree 100% with your view of becoming a rely on someone else society. I am the eldest son of a do it yourselfer and was the mandatory gofer/ helper whenever there was a project to be done. I am very grateful as the lessons I learned early on have only helped me along in my life. It has made me who I am today. I appreciate the video as I was curious what was involved with the igniter replacement. I did a quick google part search before finding this video and saw the assembly you refer to in the video which got me wondering why I would need all of those parts to replace an igniter. Again thank you for the valuable information.
You Da Man! Struggling for the longest time with two of my burners and never knew about the little hole. Fixed it right up. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you. A very helpful video. Cleaned out the hole, re-centered the top, and stove top is back working. Luckily did not have to order an aftermarket part this time.
Thank you for this excellent video. Your oven range design is nearly identical to mine. I am glad you showed that the burners have to be removed to raise the top by removing the two screws in the base of the burner. My front left burner that is used mostly will not ignite the gas unless another burner is sparking. Unfortunately, the head of 1 of the 2 screws in that burner had sheared off, making it impossible for me to remove, especially because the top of the shaft is below the surface. If you have any suggestion on how to remove the headless screw it would be soooo much appreciated. The anealed/hardened shaft of these screws is so small that it's very hard to drill into it. Your help in how to remove this headless screw shaft will be very much appreciated. Thank you
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE that the burner screws and the screws underneath were different sizes.. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason for that other than some product designer was STUPID!!! haha
I'm not a fan of engineers.... At all. Working as a sparky, working on vehicles, just repairing stuff. These people need to be forced to do 6 months working on whatever it is they intend to be designing. Frig.
Sometimes it is not the igniter. Best thing to do when troubleshooting is swap out all the parts one by one to identify the root cause. In the case of a range, you have the igniter, which is a pain to swap, the base that channels the gas, and the plate that covers the base. These last two are easy to swap with any other burner that is the same size. In a recent case, I found that my igniter and plate were fine, but the base was either worn down or warped, and therefore not channeling gas the right way. Replacing the igniter would have been a huge waste of time and money!
I just swapped out an igniter for a client on his Fisher Paykel that the cleaning lady broke. This happened a long time ago so the thing wasn't used. Everything was fairly greasy so there was some cleaning involved. Anyway, the thing wouldn't light even though I could clearly see the spark and could smell the gas. I used a bbq lighter to test for gas dispersal and everything looked fine.... There was a gasket that separated the burner base from the entire top cover and it was badly damaged so I have him getting one of those in case it's a leak causing the issue and will try again. If I remember, I'll come back to share the result and/or possibly a solution.
I have a Kitchenaid, 5 burner, gas cook top. The two burners on the left will light, but shut off as soon as you try to adjust the flame. The other burners all work fine. Is this a common problem? What's the fix?
One thing that I don't understand is when you tried the old ignitor at the beginning, it was clearly sparking, so explain why changing the igniters with new ones that spark too like the old ones, why didn't the old ones light the burner?????????? Don't you see that does not make sense!!!!!!!!!!!! 😮😊😅😂😢 I'm so confused. Hardy, har. Har, Har, can somebody explain that to me.
over time, the igniters wear down, just like a spark plug. If you have ever put in a spark plug, you may have set the gap and those gaps must be accurate to 100ths of an inch. Being slightly off will impact the quality of the spark. You may still have spark but it is not strong enough to ignite the gas. The new igniters tips were noticeably larger than the ones I removed so I would guess that the spark was weaker. I am not expert and this is my own guess.
the spark was sufficient, this is not like a internal combination engine at all, if he would have used a lighter with a flame it still would not have lit, there was no gas.
@@HomeImproveman my problem is my oven , the spark is not going to the burner it is going the opposite way , gas lights ok , my issue is a spare part doesnt look as though it's got the wire with it which I think may need replacing too , I left the oven on for about 2 hrs after I'd switched the electricity off , don't know if that would affect it but it's not been working right since , it's hard to see as I need to stick my head in to back of oven , if it was summer I could use the BBQ in case I make a mess of it and need to get a repair man in ,
No, but to be safe it is a good idea. If it is difficult to access the gas shutoff, you can leave it on, but be very careful of moving the control knobs while doing the work. In fact, if you must leave the gas on, put tape over the gas knobs so that they do not move while you are working.
That will work, just be sure to turn on one of the heating elements to give the gas that is stuck in the line an opportunity to escape. Hold a flame up to the heating element to ensure that the gas is completely off. You should also have a valve behind the stove that you can use to shut off the gas..
just like a spark plug in a car, the distance between the electrodes increase over time and usage. Spark may still be there, but it is weaker because of the increased distance. Clearly, the choice to replace them was the correct choice because it solved the problem.
hi, I have the same stove model but could not find the igniter part number on the part list. Can you please send me the ebay store address which you bought the igniter. Thanks.
The item listing on ebay is gone, but this was the title of the listing - Frigidaire Range Ignitor P# 316536602 316536614 316536610 316536600 316536622
The company does not sell just the ignitor, as he mentioned in the video. They sell only the whole burner unit for about $100.00. That's why he bought the ignitors from ebay
I believe this is the one - www.ebay.com/itm/325831101176?hash=item4bdd0c0af8:g:umQAAOSwgZJfd26X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAKMqB5iuVvvpvEE60ZfDvtcvxPz5HqfeZFOecLTuvnLNaBLyz02pjTJU7CNucc30wSowhX%2Fy97A9%2BAa9uoZzfK64KvNNjipGbwY19q6NRQgcoeMUXnB6Zv%2BQqMkwL9Eo8LS3Gp4ddZFuCwPi429uszzaOOqIIJLH9neOcxdEAvigHGHvy%2B%2FVycjDqdUgzabKsQaDcm8yDZritnIs%2BUVYVWsNdg19wR3MyWbZUVYGMdTjuspsnSNn9k4yVsg%2B9T3XE0qJ9A2upAahQ8uvTfUSTkLe4dHXHfLV5jwpvWwxH37eYXtynP%2BnVq6csUkIQF5KAZRUDl3qv98VLrwlb1Uy5Z4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8bUv5XeYg
You are correct, I should have mentioned turning off the gas. But, you need to keep it plugged in so that you can see the ignitor attempting to spark. While replacing the components, you could unplug the unit, but the only time there is electricity going to the ignitors is when you have the knob turned to 'light' and the voltage is quite low.
Definitely try this, but a quick examination will often show this is futile. Propane and natural gas burn cleanly and leave no discernible residue to foul the igniter and because the igniter is recessed, it is rarely soiled by food.
I agree 100% with your view of becoming a rely on someone else society. I am the eldest son of a do it yourselfer and was the mandatory gofer/ helper whenever there was a project to be done. I am very grateful as the lessons I learned early on have only helped me along in my life. It has made me who I am today. I appreciate the video as I was curious what was involved with the igniter replacement. I did a quick google part search before finding this video and saw the assembly you refer to in the video which got me wondering why I would need all of those parts to replace an igniter. Again thank you for the valuable information.
It's nice to know that these videos are appreciated. Thank you for your comment.
Lots of information and hints should be easier after watching and learning from you
Thanks
You Da Man! Struggling for the longest time with two of my burners and never knew about the little hole. Fixed it right up. Thank you so much for sharing.
Cleaning the channels and the secret hole above the igniter did the trick for my stove. Thank you so much for your video!
❤ the "secret hole." Glad it helped.
Thank you. A very helpful video. Cleaned out the hole, re-centered the top, and stove top is back working. Luckily did not have to order an aftermarket part this time.
This is exactly the video I needed to watch. Now I just need to see if I can locate the parts I need to replace! 😊
I did exactly what you said and I am very thankful for your advice. The burners work perfectly! Again thank you.
You're welcome!
Thank you! I used the safety pin method and it worked like a charm. 😄
Good job. I appreciate you leaving the mistake in . 😊
This was exactly my problem! Thank you for posting this very helpful video.
Thank you for this excellent video. Your oven range design is nearly identical to mine. I am glad you showed that the burners have to be removed to raise the top by removing the two screws in the base of the burner. My front left burner that is used mostly will not ignite the gas unless another burner is sparking. Unfortunately, the head of 1 of the 2 screws in that burner had sheared off, making it impossible for me to remove, especially because the top of the shaft is below the surface. If you have any suggestion on how to remove the headless screw it would be soooo much appreciated. The anealed/hardened shaft of these screws is so small that it's very hard to drill into it. Your help in how to remove this headless screw shaft will be very much appreciated. Thank you
That's a tough situation to find yourself in. Unfortunately, appliance repair is not my specialty. Good luck.
Google that problem, many have had the same, and a solution must have been found
Safety pin in the gas hole fixed it for me. Thanks!
Very helpful. Thank you for posting this.
Well done video. And a nice call to action. thanks
Thanks for this. Couldn't find the port but scrubbed the silver piece and that did the trick.
Basic cleaning lol,
Great video I agree with you many things can be repaired I'm teaching my neighbors not to throw away lets fix it :)
Thankyou very clear
Very helpful, thanks!!
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE that the burner screws and the screws underneath were different sizes.. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason for that other than some product designer was STUPID!!! haha
Or intentional. I've had to replace some of those bolts and they were very unique and, though small, very expensive.
@@Eclectic8 the keep it simple stupid principle has been ignored since the beginning of human history
I'm not a fan of engineers.... At all. Working as a sparky, working on vehicles, just repairing stuff. These people need to be forced to do 6 months working on whatever it is they intend to be designing. Frig.
@@RickL_was_here haha.. that would be a fitting punishment!!
Hey Man. Thanks so much ❤
Sometimes it is not the igniter. Best thing to do when troubleshooting is swap out all the parts one by one to identify the root cause. In the case of a range, you have the igniter, which is a pain to swap, the base that channels the gas, and the plate that covers the base. These last two are easy to swap with any other burner that is the same size. In a recent case, I found that my igniter and plate were fine, but the base was either worn down or warped, and therefore not channeling gas the right way. Replacing the igniter would have been a huge waste of time and money!
Thank you
I just swapped out an igniter for a client on his Fisher Paykel that the cleaning lady broke. This happened a long time ago so the thing wasn't used. Everything was fairly greasy so there was some cleaning involved.
Anyway, the thing wouldn't light even though I could clearly see the spark and could smell the gas. I used a bbq lighter to test for gas dispersal and everything looked fine.... There was a gasket that separated the burner base from the entire top cover and it was badly damaged so I have him getting one of those in case it's a leak causing the issue and will try again. If I remember, I'll come back to share the result and/or possibly a solution.
I have a Kitchenaid, 5 burner, gas cook top. The two burners on the left will light, but shut off as soon as you try to adjust the flame. The other burners all work fine. Is this a common problem? What's the fix?
Excellent video, can you please share the ebay link. I have the same stove model. Thank you
The exact link is gone, the seller must have pulled it, but this looks like a similar item, www.ebay.com/itm/375346146447?
Thank you
One thing that I don't understand is when you tried the old ignitor at the beginning, it was clearly sparking, so explain why changing the igniters with new ones that spark too like the old ones, why didn't the old ones light the burner?????????? Don't you see that does not make sense!!!!!!!!!!!! 😮😊😅😂😢 I'm so confused. Hardy, har. Har, Har, can somebody explain that to me.
over time, the igniters wear down, just like a spark plug. If you have ever put in a spark plug, you may have set the gap and those gaps must be accurate to 100ths of an inch. Being slightly off will impact the quality of the spark. You may still have spark but it is not strong enough to ignite the gas. The new igniters tips were noticeably larger than the ones I removed so I would guess that the spark was weaker. I am not expert and this is my own guess.
the spark was sufficient, this is not like a internal combination engine at all, if he would have used a lighter with a flame it still would not have lit, there was no gas.
@@HomeImproveman my problem is my oven , the spark is not going to the burner it is going the opposite way , gas lights ok , my issue is a spare part doesnt look as though it's got the wire with it which I think may need replacing too , I left the oven on for about 2 hrs after I'd switched the electricity off , don't know if that would affect it but it's not been working right since , it's hard to see as I need to stick my head in to back of oven , if it was summer I could use the BBQ in case I make a mess of it and need to get a repair man in ,
❤❤❤Good morning from Gardening with kirk
Do u need to turn off gas completely to replace the igniter?
No, but to be safe it is a good idea. If it is difficult to access the gas shutoff, you can leave it on, but be very careful of moving the control knobs while doing the work. In fact, if you must leave the gas on, put tape over the gas knobs so that they do not move while you are working.
One suggestion is to take a picture before you disassemble the items.
14:09 thanks from Baku.
Thks, good job. Got a lot from video.
If I have propane gas, can I just turn off the tank out side?
That will work, just be sure to turn on one of the heating elements to give the gas that is stuck in the line an opportunity to escape. Hold a flame up to the heating element to ensure that the gas is completely off. You should also have a valve behind the stove that you can use to shut off the gas..
What name stove arr you working on ?
If the igniter is sparking why would you replace it?
just like a spark plug in a car, the distance between the electrodes increase over time and usage. Spark may still be there, but it is weaker because of the increased distance. Clearly, the choice to replace them was the correct choice because it solved the problem.
Hi hey you help me with this video thanks
hi, I have the same stove model but could not find the igniter part number on the part list. Can you please send me the ebay store address which you bought the igniter. Thanks.
The item listing on ebay is gone, but this was the title of the listing - Frigidaire Range Ignitor P# 316536602 316536614 316536610 316536600 316536622
The company does not sell just the ignitor, as he mentioned in the video. They sell only the whole burner unit for about $100.00. That's why he bought the ignitors from ebay
Why won’t anybody take off the piece after they take off the cap? As if it’s not just laying on there too?
eBay doesn’t show just the igniter without the other assemble. Can you send me the name of the vendor you received just the igniters?
I believe this is the one - www.ebay.com/itm/325831101176?hash=item4bdd0c0af8:g:umQAAOSwgZJfd26X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAKMqB5iuVvvpvEE60ZfDvtcvxPz5HqfeZFOecLTuvnLNaBLyz02pjTJU7CNucc30wSowhX%2Fy97A9%2BAa9uoZzfK64KvNNjipGbwY19q6NRQgcoeMUXnB6Zv%2BQqMkwL9Eo8LS3Gp4ddZFuCwPi429uszzaOOqIIJLH9neOcxdEAvigHGHvy%2B%2FVycjDqdUgzabKsQaDcm8yDZritnIs%2BUVYVWsNdg19wR3MyWbZUVYGMdTjuspsnSNn9k4yVsg%2B9T3XE0qJ9A2upAahQ8uvTfUSTkLe4dHXHfLV5jwpvWwxH37eYXtynP%2BnVq6csUkIQF5KAZRUDl3qv98VLrwlb1Uy5Z4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8bUv5XeYg
The vendor was not a company. An individual, I believe, because the ad has been removed
Shouldn't you have turned off the electricity and gas to the stove?
You are correct, I should have mentioned turning off the gas. But, you need to keep it plugged in so that you can see the ignitor attempting to spark. While replacing the components, you could unplug the unit, but the only time there is electricity going to the ignitors is when you have the knob turned to 'light' and the voltage is quite low.
Great ,holes were plugged
👍
Totally skipped the part where you show how to remove the igniter from the frame..
The one I just did had a little metal 'A' shaped piece that I had to squeeze the two sides together and pull it out, releasing the ignitor.
not clear why you can't try cleaning the igniter before you replace it.
Definitely try this, but a quick examination will often show this is futile. Propane and natural gas burn cleanly and leave no discernible residue to foul the igniter and because the igniter is recessed, it is rarely soiled by food.
Looking at both ignitors he holds up. The new one has a little pin at the top which has worn off the part that doesn't work
Electrobe change