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I live in FL and am about to repair some drywall in one area of the house from some storm damage. I'm considering repairing the drywall and then instead of going through the pain of trying to paint match (old popcorn ceiling), just doing ceiling tiles like these. My concern is that if/when we get another hurricane and the drywall gets water damage, these ceiling tiles will conceal the damage and I will not be aware that I need to do a repair. Do you have any experience with identifying water damage behind these types of tiles, or if water damage will be noticeable?

where s the link

Excellent video, can you please share the ebay link. I have the same stove model. Thank you

Thank you! I used the safety pin method and it worked like a charm. 😄

Now this is a video!!!!

One suggestion is to take a picture before you disassemble the items.

if I can ask a question, just moved to a home where there is a ceiling paint peeling, i want to instead of repainting it do this ceiling install, want to check if its okay to sand down where the peeling is happening and then glue this on top of it. There is some moisture or humidity where we live in Hartford, Ct

What name stove arr you working on ?

Thank you

Good job. I appreciate you leaving the mistake in . 😊

Cleaning the channels and the secret hole above the igniter did the trick for my stove. Thank you so much for your video!

Why won’t anybody take off the piece after they take off the cap? As if it’s not just laying on there too?

Hate that we live in such a disposable society. I believe EVERY product we purchase should include ALL the info pertaining to it, i.e. schematics, part numbers, etc., so that I, if I so choose, will be able to troubleshoot and fix it without having to go through so much BS, wasted time and $$$ that it just becomes easier to chunk it and buy a new one. If it’s already broken why not try to DIY and have the experience to learn something new. Thanks for your videos, brother

not clear why you can't try cleaning the igniter before you replace it.

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE that the burner screws and the screws underneath were different sizes.. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason for that other than some product designer was STUPID!!! haha

❤❤❤Good morning from Gardening with kirk

This is exactly the video I needed to watch. Now I just need to see if I can locate the parts I need to replace! 😊

Sometimes it is not the igniter. Best thing to do when troubleshooting is swap out all the parts one by one to identify the root cause. In the case of a range, you have the igniter, which is a pain to swap, the base that channels the gas, and the plate that covers the base. These last two are easy to swap with any other burner that is the same size. In a recent case, I found that my igniter and plate were fine, but the base was either worn down or warped, and therefore not channeling gas the right way. Replacing the igniter would have been a huge waste of time and money!

I did exactly what you said and I am very thankful for your advice. The burners work perfectly! Again thank you.

The flange should be high enough so the horn on the bottom of the toilet can fit INSIDE the flange. Otherwise you're relying on the wax to seal the water and its really only to seal gases. Remember horn INSIDE of flange. Not even, not close, not above, INSIDE. Make it so with wouldn't leak even if you didn't have a wax ring.

Totally skipped the part where you show how to remove the igniter from the frame..

hi, I have the same stove model but could not find the igniter part number on the part list. Can you please send me the ebay store address which you bought the igniter. Thanks.

What about a ground?

Thank you for keeping it simple

Finally, someone who gives you a very good description. You’re the only one out there thank you.

Thank you!

Why Styrofoam versus plastic?

thanks!

If the igniter is sparking why would you replace it?

You Da Man! Struggling for the longest time with two of my burners and never knew about the little hole. Fixed it right up. Thank you so much for sharing.

Thank you for this excellent video. Your oven range design is nearly identical to mine. I am glad you showed that the burners have to be removed to raise the top by removing the two screws in the base of the burner. My front left burner that is used mostly will not ignite the gas unless another burner is sparking. Unfortunately, the head of 1 of the 2 screws in that burner had sheared off, making it impossible for me to remove, especially because the top of the shaft is below the surface. If you have any suggestion on how to remove the headless screw it would be soooo much appreciated. The anealed/hardened shaft of these screws is so small that it's very hard to drill into it. Your help in how to remove this headless screw shaft will be very much appreciated. Thank you

I agree 100% with your view of becoming a rely on someone else society. I am the eldest son of a do it yourselfer and was the mandatory gofer/ helper whenever there was a project to be done. I am very grateful as the lessons I learned early on have only helped me along in my life. It has made me who I am today. I appreciate the video as I was curious what was involved with the igniter replacement. I did a quick google part search before finding this video and saw the assembly you refer to in the video which got me wondering why I would need all of those parts to replace an igniter. Again thank you for the valuable information.

Very helpful, thanks!!

Safety pin in the gas hole fixed it for me. Thanks!

Where did you find the mount?

If I have propane gas, can I just turn off the tank out side?

Great video! The toilet flange in my bathroom sits below the tile and I used a flange extender to raise it above the tile surface but now I am not able to set the toilet. The toilet does not sit right on the flange and the edge of the toilet bas has a big gap with the tile surface. Is this normal? Thanks.

One thing that I don't understand is when you tried the old ignitor at the beginning, it was clearly sparking, so explain why changing the igniters with new ones that spark too like the old ones, why didn't the old ones light the burner?????????? Don't you see that does not make sense!!!!!!!!!!!! 😮😊😅😂😢 I'm so confused. Hardy, har. Har, Har, can somebody explain that to me.

You are only the second person on YT that has so far mentioned this, and it's wonderful, more people need to know. The flange is female, the toilet horn is male. If you look at the flange, you'll see a beveled shoulder, that's what the horn is supposed to go into, as close as possible. If more people realized this, they sure wouldn't want the gaps that a lot of them have.

This was exactly my problem! Thank you for posting this very helpful video.

Hi hey you help me with this video thanks

Very helpful. Thank you for posting this.

Ty!

Do u need to turn off gas completely to replace the igniter?

14:09 thanks from Baku.

New subscriber here. Thanks for the video. I am considering putting in a lazy Susan

I had a feeling 69" off the floor was the answer. Thank you for this video

Shouldn't you have turned off the electricity and gas to the stove?

Lots of information and hints should be easier after watching and learning from you Thanks

Great tutorial. If I do not need the bracket and only plan to use the wood supports, do I just lay the shelf on the wood? Should I secure the shelf to the wood with some liquid adhesive light liquid nails or is that not necessary?