Calvin neglected to give us the weight of the Park Tool special rock, the speed of momentum, and the point of impact (leverage point) on the rear derailleur to effectively bend the hanger. These values would be variable as to the brands and types of derailleur, and hangers. Perhaps he should create a cross reference chart for the force/angular deflection! I realize no one is perfect, but come on Calvin. 😂
I've watched a few videos on rear derailleur adjustment and found them useless until this mechanics video. Absolutely priceless with detailed explanation. Completed the adjustment first time. Visual guidelands are exceptional.
this channel breaks the taboo... i did always fear for breaking the part of the derailleur, now i have confidence and know it can be fixed.. always remember this : one day, you will have to break the taboo, it will be freedom x'D
As a limited time offer, DRT-1, or Derailiuer Rock Tool-1, is available at any construction site for free! Hurry to grab yours and enjoy the legendary Park Tool quality!
WOW, Dude you are the man….!! I have been dealing with a shifting problem for almost all of the last two years. I have viewed dozens of videos on troubleshooting derailleur in that time. Early this morning in another attempt to resolve this problem I caught your video and within minutes I was on my way to the solution. My ride this morning was the best trouble free ride I have experienced in years. Thank you bunches….!!!!!!
This video has been great for helping me troubleshoot drivetrain noise on my ebike. I also like how the instructions are clear, precise and easy to follow, with examples of when something doesn't work
These videos are great. I really appreciate the time everyone puts into these. The highlighting of the parts, the visual guidelines added in after effects are sooooo helpful. I appreciate also how you explain not only what a part is for but how it works and how it interacts with other components really helps me understand why were' fixing what we're fixing. Thank you for taking all the time to make these.
Thank you so much for your time in producing videos that help me no end. I’ve not ridden a bike for many years because of a fused spine but recently I purchased a recumbent trike and I’m back on the road again even at my age (70). I appreciate your expertise and simplistic advice in correcting derailleur problems. The diagrams make it so easy to follow. My only issue is that my pedals are a long way from the rear wheel lol.
Many thanks to Park tool for sponsoring these videos and special thanks to Calvin Jones for taking the time to make them and giving such simple clear instructions......GREAT job Guys!
Love it thanks, I've watched your "Rear DR adjustment" video many, many times and found it to be extremely helpful. After following the steps in that one, and then lubing the cable my son yet again has crisp, accurate shifting- Thanks!
Dear Calvin, I was recently working on the rear derailleur of a MTB from 1991! After having set the H-limit screw and making the index adjustment I was observing that the shifting onto bigger cogs (smaller gear) was working fine. However when shifting back onto smaller cogs again, there was either a strong delay of shifting or the chain was remaining on the cog it was already on. In this case, it was sometimes making strong noises, sometimes it did not make strong noises and I had to shift a 2nd time towards smaller cogs before the chain would move a cog down. I lubricated the shifting cable and housing. I also made sure that I had no offset of one gear when doing the index adjustment. I also checked if the derailleur hanger was bent but it was not. I noticed that the derailleur of this bike was easily moveable (swinging) back and forward in riding direction and that the adjustment of the B screw seams to have no effect. My guess is a worn out derailleur spring. I checked the derailleur of a newer bike and it was stiff in one position and could not be moved easily back and forward in riding direction. What do you suggest?
It is possible the spring is wore out, but not probable. It is also possible the pins in the linkage have developed a lot of play and this will cause it not to shift consistently. Try this. Shift up to the large sprockets and stop the wheel. Do not pedal and shift the lever back to the first position to get lots of slack. Now pedal to drop down to the smallest sprocket. Pedal and use your hand to push the lower rear pivot of the derailleur in just to shift to the next sprocket and release. You are testing the derailleur and the spring. If it goes up and down by push just fine, the cable should be able to simulate that.
Instant like after seeing rear derailleur got smashed with a rock😁 love park tool videos, they are right on point very informative, somehow feel very comfy and are really good to rewind something about bike repairs in memory. Big thanks to Calvin Jones for such an excellent narration! He is much better in narrating videos than 99.9% of professional narrators. Watched your videos years ago and decided to subscribe now.
I love these videos! I'm a newbie to the bike world and I had no idea how much work goes into keeping a bicycle maintained. The guys at Park Tool explain in simply and quickly :-)
Just follow along with the video exactly how it's done and you'll do great! That's what I did and now my shifting is flawless. Saved me some money too by not taking my bike to my LBS. 👍
Calvin: "This piece can be bent by crashing and bashing." Me: Ok now they're going to bring in a damaged- Calvin: *smashes derailleur hanger with a freaking rock* Me: :0
We used to carry spare rear derailleur hangers in case of trouble in the woods. My blur has a hanger that bolts to the seatstay and chainstay. Its beefy and with the removal of two bolts you can remove the chain without breaking it except for the derailleurs. My old steel road bike is about to get the crescent wrench on the rear derailleur hanger ......
Dude awesome video thank you so much! I was worried about fixing the chain on my brand new bike, frustrated that it was slipping and this totally fixed it! Thank you!
Excellent video, though I would have added a comment about how improper B-screw adjustment and inadequate chain wrap can adversely affect shifting. I see it all the time!
The best how to graphics. I'm still puzzled by a rear derailer that hesitates moving to the last 2 outside gears on a seven speed Shimano. I did not see that topic addressed. The Hi-side stop is not in the way. The spring simply does not have the push it appears to get it to the outside. All components have been lubed and moved. It was working fine just last week.
00:28 you have a bent derailleur cage ( bottom pulley section). This will be noticeable on the Cogs that are not perfectly in line with the Ring up front as you will get grinding on some gears and the barrel adjuster will be useless since the bottom pulley will always be pulling away from the adjustment.
0:15 "The most common fixes for shifting problems are the basics": In my case it was how I was passing the cable from the cable (pinch) bolt! Before checking everything else, find the manual of your derailleur and understand every "minor" detail.
so in the "how to wash your bike" video they wash an almost perfectly clean bike, but in this one, they smash a rock to the derailleur to demonstrate the hanger bending :D great video nonetheless!
First, I agree that these Park Tools videos are high quality and very informative. Now, my problem with my Shimano Tourney rear derailleur. I can get it to shift either smoothly up or down but not both. I can not seem to find that sweet spot on the cable adjuster for indexing. All original components. Thx
@@parktool I did recently have an "unplanned landing" but I thought I had straightened out the derailleur hanger. Thank-you for taking the time to answer my question. Unrelated: do you have a video on what to wear in warm and cold weather?
"Chains don't last forever" (3:37) -- that's not just true, it easily makes it into my shortlist for "understatement of the decade". In fact, today's chains have design elements that serve no purpose other than causing chains to wear more quickly. Two such features are (1) rivets that are not straight (see 3:43), if they are thinner in the middle, the sideplates of the narrow links will be pulled towards the centre as rollers wear out, resulting in unnecessary elongation of the chain, and (2) sideplates that are not straight (see 3:27), as the use of the chain which is entirely normal and which it should be designed to withstand will straighten out any non-straight sideplates, thereby nullifying any clever effects the sideplate design may be intended for, and replacing that with the unintended (by the rider, but perhaps not by the manufacturer?) effect of chain elongation. I know this is a bit tangential to the main topic of this video, but thanks for illustrating these problematic design features anyway.
One more potential issue - when I assembled the cassette some cogs were back to front and this caused a lot of noise and misalignment. Discovered this after many hours troubleshooting!
Thank you for the videos - they are great and the only which helped me feel my derailleurs are 100% setup :-) Still have questions about "pulleys", cause mine got rusty: 1) Could you make video about them? 2) What is the difference between 8spd-11spd pulleys, and can we put 9-10-11 spd pulleys to 8spd derailleur? 3) Can we put 13T instead of 11T? 4) Why some of them have holes? 5) Why some of them have direction? 6) Is it worth buying somewhat more expensive ones for low-end casual derailleur?
Thanks for getting back to me Park Tools, I really appreciate it. I will start by adjusting the derailleur first, then I will let you know how it goes when I'm done with it. Once again, thanks for your help.
Would be good to mention (esp. for beginner home mechanics) to make sure the axle and rear cassette are on tight. I've encountered that once on my bike and on a friend's bike, resulting in ghost shifting and weird shifting performance.
First four shifts from outermost cog are perfect. After that, shifts are delayed or it won't shift at all to the cogs to the inermost cog if I sometimes don't press the shifter for a bit (without a click). I have set the H limit screw, tried indexing setting by the instructions in your videos, but still no luck. After that I cleaned the derailleur wire and wire housing, aligned dropout (by eye - derailleur wasn't misaligned a lot) but the problem still persists (there was no improvement at all). I haven't changed any equipment and there is no excessive amount of movement when I try to move the derailleur with my hand. I have to mention that I was able to adjust the shifting without a problem before 10-12 months. I noticed that derrauiler movement when shifting from fourth to fifth cog is smaller then with the shifts to the fourth cog from outermost one. Could this be the problem? Could the worn out chaing cause this? You can see the problem here - ruclips.net/video/_q0OJ7ApRNA/видео.html
Thanks for the video. I believe your cable should be routed over the tab just before the anchor bolt. This will change the pull rate of the derailleur and make it so it shifts fine for you. Let me know if this works. Ride happy, T.
Park Tool Thank you for fast reply. I don't quite understand what should I do (as English isn't my first language), so if could explain it more, it would be great. I presume that I should reroute the cable that exits the housing at the derailleur, but I don't where should it go at the anchor bolt. Also, the tab is the plate that presses the cable at the anchor bolt?
Park Tool I was able to solve the shifting problem. I found the user manual for my derailleur thinking about your advice and the problem was missplaced cable - it should have been on the opposite side where the anchor bolt is. I must have changed the position of cable as the bolt didn't hold the cable well but didn't pay attention on the groove where bolt comes. Wouldn't solve this quickly without you. Thank you again, you have my support.
@@parktool thanks for this. I was about to give up after trying almost everything. This little comment just got me sorted! Amazing that such a small mistake could affect the shifting so much. Cheers.
Turns out my derailleur hanger was loose!!!! at 4:30, he shows lateral movement in the derailleur indicates replacement of the derailleur. But a loose hanger will give the same lateral movement.
My bike keeps readjusting itself. It runs perfectly fine until either the outside temperature changes considerably or sometimes out of nowhere. Then other times after the rain it runs perfectly fine just to be off again later. I keep re-adjusting it (the proper way) but somehow it always manages to be off again and again until none of my gears are running smoothly. The chain also starts skipping when I put even the tiniest amount of torque / stress on the gear system. so far i was able to adjust every single bike i owned with no problem. I checked multiple times before buying if my shifter was compatible with the gear set i bought and the derailleur i chose. The only thing im suspecting is maybe the cable housing being made of a cheap plastic that changes its rigidity at different temperatures.
I just bought a used bike . The rear derailleur gear is touching the wheels gears . I adjusted The B screw all the way and its still a long way from being able to move the derailleur to where it will have clearance . How do I know if the internal spring that goes around the derailleur part that bolts onto the bike is working or set right . Everything else works correctly in the changing of the gears . I just can't figure out how to make it have a space between the 2 gears . I think it has something to do with the spring tension setting inside where it bolts to the frame .
Park tool i have serious problems with my derailluar i have two bikes one is equiped with Shimano tourneys and another shimano tiagra its shifting is really worse dose and i studied i got the problem that is with b screw adjustment but even i take off b screw the g pulley is not near to the cassette even i serviced the derailluar two pivots
ok so i went from a 14-28 freewheel to a 13-32 freewheel... the derailleur can handle 11 minimum teeth and up to 34 if i turn the barrel adjuster too far counter clockwise it wont shift down if i go too far clockwise it wont shift up.... i cant seem to find the perfect happy medium...... ive tried adjusting the L and H screws but they dont seem to solve the problem..... the b screw either not sure if this is just the new odd sized freewheel (13 as the min 32 as the max.. most are 14 28 for these bikes) chain is brand new
I have a new derailleur, tourney tx replacing tourney/ said to be compatible. New housing & cable. New chain. The first minute of adjustment seemed fine. But now I cannot get anything on it adjusted- high, low, or indexing. The hangar is not bent. Any more ideas? Thanks.
I’m having trouble with my straight derailleur and thought I would try the bashing trick, but I have no rocks available. Any suggestions for alternative forms of bashing? HELP! Thanks
have the same derailleur like the one at 4:30 min.. deore lx 9 spd... it shifts superb...my problem is its tension spring...its so soft, when going of the sidewalk...it moves so much it hits the under side of the chain stay so hard, the coating chips off.. i replaced the worn chain with new one. cutted to correct size....still the same..... any ideas how to fix this??
@@denishuber7758 There are not very many options out there for you. Back in 2005 we used to use a lot of chainstay and seatstay protectors. The new Microshift Advent rear derailleur could plug and play depending on your current system.
Totally did not expect him to show us an example of a bent derailleur by smashing a rock on it 😂
But he did it for us, for the video, afterall, he aligned it after that
Have to hit the like for that
Calvin neglected to give us the weight of the Park Tool special rock, the speed of momentum, and the point of impact (leverage point) on the rear derailleur to effectively bend the hanger. These values would be variable as to the brands and types of derailleur, and hangers. Perhaps he should create a cross reference chart for the force/angular deflection! I realize no one is perfect, but come on Calvin. 😂
spoiler
I must have missed something, I thought he fixed it with the rock...
I've watched a few videos on rear derailleur adjustment and found them useless until this mechanics video. Absolutely priceless with detailed explanation. Completed the adjustment first time. Visual guidelands are exceptional.
these videos are so high in quality and education. a big thanks to everyone involved in making these videos.
this channel breaks the taboo... i did always fear for breaking the part of the derailleur, now i have confidence and know it can be fixed.. always remember this : one day, you will have to break the taboo, it will be freedom x'D
Where can i buy that special rock tool
As a limited time offer, DRT-1, or Derailiuer Rock Tool-1, is available at any construction site for free! Hurry to grab yours and enjoy the legendary Park Tool quality!
I'm lucky, I just found one lying on the side of the track today.
Be careful to only use a Part Tool rock, using a cheap, unbranded copy might cause damage to your bike.
be wary of Chinese knockoffs, as sandstone and shale are unacceptable.
🤣🤣I'm dead
These are, hands down, the most helpful videos for bicycle maintenance. Thanks Calvin and Park Tools!
WOW, Dude you are the man….!! I have been dealing with a shifting problem for almost all of the last two years. I have viewed dozens of videos on troubleshooting derailleur in that time. Early this morning in another attempt to resolve this problem I caught your video and within minutes I was on my way to the solution. My ride this morning was the best trouble free ride I have experienced in years. Thank you bunches….!!!!!!
I appreciate the honesty on what must be replaced and what can be fixed
This video was exactly what I needed to confirm that my Ultegra rear derailleur needs to be replaced. Thank you Calvin and Park Tool.
This video has been great for helping me troubleshoot drivetrain noise on my ebike. I also like how the instructions are clear, precise and easy to follow, with examples of when something doesn't work
These videos are great. I really appreciate the time everyone puts into these. The highlighting of the parts, the visual guidelines added in after effects are sooooo helpful. I appreciate also how you explain not only what a part is for but how it works and how it interacts with other components really helps me understand why were' fixing what we're fixing. Thank you for taking all the time to make these.
Thank you so much for your time in producing videos that help me no end. I’ve not ridden a bike for many years because of a fused spine but recently I purchased a recumbent trike and I’m back on the road again even at my age (70). I appreciate your expertise and simplistic advice in correcting derailleur problems. The diagrams make it so easy to follow. My only issue is that my pedals are a long way from the rear wheel lol.
Many thanks to Park tool for sponsoring these videos and special thanks to Calvin Jones for taking the time to make them and giving such simple clear instructions......GREAT job Guys!
Love it thanks, I've watched your "Rear DR adjustment" video many, many times and found it to be extremely helpful. After following the steps in that one, and then lubing the cable my son yet again has crisp, accurate shifting- Thanks!
Bent hanger adjustment was excellent advice! Not spending on that tool for now. Having the base knowledge put me in decent shape! Thanks again!!
2:00 Ugh that hurt me inside a little
Useful information in a short Video. This is great.
You are a life saver sir
There's very little experienced people in this field so i don't trust them.
Instead i watch your videos and do it my self 👏
wow, love to see the detail and production quality of these videos. it really makes learning MTB maintenance so easy!
Dear Calvin, I was recently working on the rear derailleur of a MTB from 1991! After having set the H-limit screw and making the index adjustment I was observing that the shifting onto bigger cogs (smaller gear) was working fine. However when shifting back onto smaller cogs again, there was either a strong delay of shifting or the chain was remaining on the cog it was already on. In this case, it was sometimes making strong noises, sometimes it did not make strong noises and I had to shift a 2nd time towards smaller cogs before the chain would move a cog down. I lubricated the shifting cable and housing. I also made sure that I had no offset of one gear when doing the index adjustment. I also checked if the derailleur hanger was bent but it was not. I noticed that the derailleur of this bike was easily moveable (swinging) back and forward in riding direction and that the adjustment of the B screw seams to have no effect. My guess is a worn out derailleur spring. I checked the derailleur of a newer bike and it was stiff in one position and could not be moved easily back and forward in riding direction. What do you suggest?
It is possible the spring is wore out, but not probable. It is also possible the pins in the linkage have developed a lot of play and this will cause it not to shift consistently. Try this. Shift up to the large sprockets and stop the wheel. Do not pedal and shift the lever back to the first position to get lots of slack. Now pedal to drop down to the smallest sprocket. Pedal and use your hand to push the lower rear pivot of the derailleur in just to shift to the next sprocket and release. You are testing the derailleur and the spring. If it goes up and down by push just fine, the cable should be able to simulate that.
Instant like after seeing rear derailleur got smashed with a rock😁 love park tool videos, they are right on point very informative, somehow feel very comfy and are really good to rewind something about bike repairs in memory. Big thanks to Calvin Jones for such an excellent narration! He is much better in narrating videos than 99.9% of professional narrators. Watched your videos years ago and decided to subscribe now.
almost all of the video helped me to fix the minute trouble of my MTB thanks a lot.
I love these videos! I'm a newbie to the bike world and I had no idea how much work goes into keeping a bicycle maintained. The guys at Park Tool explain in simply and quickly :-)
Just follow along with the video exactly how it's done and you'll do great! That's what I did and now my shifting is flawless. Saved me some money too by not taking my bike to my LBS. 👍
awesome! not one video could help me out in solving my problems, I watched yours and boom! I'm Rockin'and rollin
I love this guy he explains it well
Calvin: "This piece can be bent by crashing and bashing."
Me: Ok now they're going to bring in a damaged-
Calvin: *smashes derailleur hanger with a freaking rock*
Me:
:0
same hahaha
*shocked Pikachu face*
@@jeremyemilio9378 shookith
Cal is the Dad we deserved to have.
Calvin crushes it again! Thanks for these fantastic videos
Literally crushes the derailleur hanger... :-D
As usual, an excellent instructional video!!! Thanks for providing this great service!
perfect video, explaining a lot about bad symptoms
Even though this is a 5yr old video, its still helpful today...ty
That's my Rockhopper! Mine needs a lot of work and perhaps a new chain, F&R derailleur, cables etc!
You guys are great 👍 excellent videos and descriptions with links.
We used to carry spare rear derailleur hangers in case of trouble in the woods. My blur has a hanger that bolts to the seatstay and chainstay. Its beefy and with the removal of two bolts you can remove the chain without breaking it except for the derailleurs. My old steel road bike is about to get the crescent wrench on the rear derailleur hanger ......
Thanks for this! I learned something new to check my shifting issues on my mountainbike :)
Dude awesome video thank you so much! I was worried about fixing the chain on my brand new bike, frustrated that it was slipping and this totally fixed it! Thank you!
Thanks!
Hey! You're welcome!
Excellent video, though I would have added a comment about how improper B-screw adjustment and inadequate chain wrap can adversely affect shifting. I see it all the time!
Thankyou Calvin and parktool! I needed to know a quick way to check #6.
Brilliant video, informative and straight to the point, thanks.
The best how to graphics. I'm still puzzled by a rear derailer that hesitates moving to the last 2 outside gears on a seven speed Shimano. I did not see that topic addressed. The Hi-side stop is not in the way. The spring simply does not have the push it appears to get it to the outside. All components have been lubed and moved. It was working fine just last week.
00:28 you have a bent derailleur cage ( bottom pulley section). This will be noticeable on the Cogs that are not perfectly in line with the Ring up front as you will get grinding on some gears and the barrel adjuster will be useless since the bottom pulley will always be pulling away from the adjustment.
0:15 "The most common fixes for shifting problems are the basics": In my case it was how I was passing the cable from the cable (pinch) bolt! Before checking everything else, find the manual of your derailleur and understand every "minor" detail.
so in the "how to wash your bike" video they wash an almost perfectly clean bike, but in this one, they smash a rock to the derailleur to demonstrate the hanger bending :D
great video nonetheless!
Calvin Jones is great
Calvin Jones is my hero!
These videos are really well designed and presented. Great job!
First, I agree that these Park Tools videos are high quality and very informative. Now, my problem with my Shimano Tourney rear derailleur. I can get it to shift either smoothly up or down but not both. I can not seem to find that sweet spot on the cable adjuster for indexing. All original components. Thx
That is a fairly common symptom of either a misaligned derailleur hanger or resistance in the housing/shift cable.
@@parktool I did recently have an "unplanned landing" but I thought I had straightened out the derailleur hanger. Thank-you for taking the time to answer my question. Unrelated: do you have a video on what to wear in warm and cold weather?
Many many thanks.
Best regards from Italy.
❤️❤️❤️💕🇮🇹🌈🇺🇸💕❤️❤️❤️
"Chains don't last forever" (3:37) -- that's not just true, it easily makes it into my shortlist for "understatement of the decade". In fact, today's chains have design elements that serve no purpose other than causing chains to wear more quickly. Two such features are (1) rivets that are not straight (see 3:43), if they are thinner in the middle, the sideplates of the narrow links will be pulled towards the centre as rollers wear out, resulting in unnecessary elongation of the chain, and (2) sideplates that are not straight (see 3:27), as the use of the chain which is entirely normal and which it should be designed to withstand will straighten out any non-straight sideplates, thereby nullifying any clever effects the sideplate design may be intended for, and replacing that with the unintended (by the rider, but perhaps not by the manufacturer?) effect of chain elongation.
I know this is a bit tangential to the main topic of this video, but thanks for illustrating these problematic design features anyway.
Dam bent hanger and incompatible shifter with derailure. Great video. I got working for now lol kinda
Good instructional video! Thank you!
thank you sir because I was able to make my gear shifting proper by your method thnk you soooooo much
Maybe should also mention how the b tension screw affect chain tension and shifting sensitivity.
OMG, I got frightened when you smashed that rock into the bike 😂
Me Too! Cuzz that looks like the bike they're supposed to be working on for me!!!👈
Just kidding???🙄
Calvins been working hard today!
This iwas really helpful. Didn't know about the chain types causing problems too!
Thank you! I think my derailleur is just worn out, going to get a new one for posterity :)
This video was extremely helpful! Many thanks.
One more potential issue - when I assembled the cassette some cogs were back to front and this caused a lot of noise and misalignment. Discovered this after many hours troubleshooting!
Amazing educational video. This helped me to fix my derailleur issues I was having. Thank you
1:58:
damn thats a good looking deraiileur
2:00:
NAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Thank you for the videos - they are great and the only which helped me feel my derailleurs are 100% setup :-)
Still have questions about "pulleys", cause mine got rusty:
1) Could you make video about them?
2) What is the difference between 8spd-11spd pulleys, and can we put 9-10-11 spd pulleys to 8spd derailleur?
3) Can we put 13T instead of 11T?
4) Why some of them have holes?
5) Why some of them have direction?
6) Is it worth buying somewhat more expensive ones for low-end casual derailleur?
thanks for the helpful tips! They allowed even a newbie like myself to fix gear shifting
02:07, My issue with a recently purchased second hand Colnago from an eBay bike trader.
Thanks for getting back to me Park Tools, I really appreciate it. I will start by adjusting the derailleur first, then I will let you know how it goes when I'm done with it. Once again, thanks for your help.
Im using 10speed chain on 9speed sprocket it shifts trash,will 10 speed chain will work on 9speed?
thank u very much it was very helpful .plz upload more videos like this
Calvin should get an Oscar
you make really outstanding videos! Perfect videos.
Very informative. Thank you. You helped me a lot.
Would be good to mention (esp. for beginner home mechanics) to make sure the axle and rear cassette are on tight. I've encountered that once on my bike and on a friend's bike, resulting in ghost shifting and weird shifting performance.
Does the stone follow with the alignment tool?
Very good video!
Wow bent hanger, who would have though! Great Trouble Shooting!
Thank you for the information, I was able to fix my bike.
That hanger damage gets me every. single. time.
This is why RUclips exist.
thankyou for the perfect explanation
First four shifts from outermost cog are perfect. After that, shifts are delayed or it won't shift at all to the cogs to the inermost cog if I sometimes don't press the shifter for a bit (without a click). I have set the H limit screw, tried indexing setting by the instructions in your videos, but still no luck.
After that I cleaned the derailleur wire and wire housing, aligned dropout (by eye - derailleur wasn't misaligned a lot) but the problem still persists (there was no improvement at all). I haven't changed any equipment and there is no excessive amount of movement when I try to move the derailleur with my hand.
I have to mention that I was able to adjust the shifting without a problem before 10-12 months.
I noticed that derrauiler movement when shifting from fourth to fifth cog is smaller then with the shifts to the fourth cog from outermost one. Could this be the problem? Could the worn out chaing cause this?
You can see the problem here - ruclips.net/video/_q0OJ7ApRNA/видео.html
Thanks for the video. I believe your cable should be routed over the tab just before the anchor bolt. This will change the pull rate of the derailleur and make it so it shifts fine for you. Let me know if this works. Ride happy, T.
Park Tool Thank you for fast reply. I don't quite understand what should I do (as English isn't my first language), so if could explain it more, it would be great. I presume that I should reroute the cable that exits the housing at the derailleur, but I don't where should it go at the anchor bolt. Also, the tab is the plate that presses the cable at the anchor bolt?
Park Tool I was able to solve the shifting problem. I found the user manual for my derailleur thinking about your advice and the problem was missplaced cable - it should have been on the opposite side where the anchor bolt is. I must have changed the position of cable as the bolt didn't hold the cable well but didn't pay attention on the groove where bolt comes. Wouldn't solve this quickly without you. Thank you again, you have my support.
@@parktool thanks for this. I was about to give up after trying almost everything. This little comment just got me sorted! Amazing that such a small mistake could affect the shifting so much. Cheers.
Great video, thanks very much.
Turns out my derailleur hanger was loose!!!! at 4:30, he shows lateral movement in the derailleur indicates replacement of the derailleur. But a loose hanger will give the same lateral movement.
excellent upload! thank you
Thanks for the video. I watched a bunch of other videos on derailleur troubleshooting but they are not as good as this one.
My bike keeps readjusting itself. It runs perfectly fine until either the outside temperature changes considerably or sometimes out of nowhere. Then other times after the rain it runs perfectly fine just to be off again later. I keep re-adjusting it (the proper way) but somehow it always manages to be off again and again until none of my gears are running smoothly. The chain also starts skipping when I put even the tiniest amount of torque / stress on the gear system.
so far i was able to adjust every single bike i owned with no problem.
I checked multiple times before buying if my shifter was compatible with the gear set i bought and the derailleur i chose.
The only thing im suspecting is maybe the cable housing being made of a cheap plastic that changes its rigidity at different temperatures.
It could be cables or housing. Or possibly housing being too short.
This guys a legend!
Any idea how to set up/adjust a Shimano C201 rear derailleur? Thank you.
Big thanks from India
I just bought a used bike . The rear derailleur gear is touching the wheels gears . I adjusted The B screw all the way and its still a long way from being able to move the derailleur to where it will have clearance . How do I know if the internal spring that goes around the derailleur part that bolts onto the bike is working or set right . Everything else works correctly in the changing of the gears . I just can't figure out how to make it have a space between the 2 gears . I think it has something to do with the spring tension setting inside where it bolts to the frame .
Park tool i have serious problems with my derailluar i have two bikes one is equiped with Shimano tourneys and another shimano tiagra its shifting is really worse dose and i studied i got the problem that is with b screw adjustment but even i take off b screw the g pulley is not near to the cassette even i serviced the derailluar two pivots
Myn makes Exive noise on one sprocket and I have turned the barrle as much as it can go clockwise
ok so i went from a 14-28 freewheel to a 13-32 freewheel... the derailleur can handle 11 minimum teeth and up to 34
if i turn the barrel adjuster too far counter clockwise it wont shift down if i go too far clockwise it wont shift up....
i cant seem to find the perfect happy medium...... ive tried adjusting the L and H screws but they dont seem to solve the problem..... the b screw either
not sure if this is just the new odd sized freewheel (13 as the min 32 as the max.. most are 14 28 for these bikes)
chain is brand new
I have a new derailleur, tourney tx replacing tourney/ said to be compatible. New housing & cable. New chain. The first minute of adjustment seemed fine. But now I cannot get anything on it adjusted- high, low, or indexing. The hangar is not bent. Any more ideas? Thanks.
How about a chain rub in the cage plate of the rear derailleur? How to repair it
I’m having trouble with my straight derailleur and thought I would try the bashing trick, but I have no rocks available. Any suggestions for alternative forms of bashing? HELP! Thanks
have the same derailleur like the one at 4:30 min.. deore lx 9 spd... it shifts superb...my problem is its tension spring...its so soft, when going of the sidewalk...it moves so much it hits the under side of the chain stay so hard, the coating chips off.. i replaced the worn chain with new one. cutted to correct size....still the same..... any ideas how to fix this??
There are some chain guides that add tension and reduce "chain slap" but the best solution we have seen to "chain slap" is a clutch style derailleur.
@@parktool on a bike from 2005 ?? 3x9 drivetrain? wich one i could use ?!?
@@denishuber7758 There are not very many options out there for you. Back in 2005 we used to use a lot of chainstay and seatstay protectors. The new Microshift Advent rear derailleur could plug and play depending on your current system.
Are you sure you Calvin Jones' finger pointed at an example of a sloppy pivot? And parallelogram??
♥ Thanks for All Your Great Videos. ♥
Thanks! I find your videos very comprehensive and still intelligible and simple. The best explanation that I have found so far.