I make my own rust powder out of 0000 steel wool soaked in vinegar for several weeks. I always looks real 'cause it IS real rust, iron oxide. I use women's eye shadow makeup I get for $1.00 at the dollar store and it sticks better than any weathering powders one could ever hope to use. And it comes in every color under the sun. Cheers from eastern TN
Super video John!!! I'm a steel mill modeler. Although I have cars to weather ... mostly gondolas ... it occurred to me how useful the Ammo Weathering Rust Solutions kit would be for steel mill structure rust effects!!!
This has steel mill stuff written all over it. :) Structures, rolling stock. Even the dust/splashes material in there can simulate the characteristic zinc dust that settles on steel mill equipment.
Great test video that helps a lot in deciding how to approach weathering. My complaint is that your text descriptions are displayed for too short a time.
Fair point. I decided to try a non-verbal narrative this time around. My intent was that viewers could simply pause the video at points rather than going back to replay to hear my voice. I'll keep that in mind for the next video I do in this style.
@@JCsRiptrack gotcha, i also don't use them on all projects, interesting that you didn't use them as a last step but went over them with other products! That often ended in a mess for me
The process from steps 1-4 assume undecorated as this type of technique applies the rust first and then applying and removing a layer of paint to simulate heavy wear. With a factory-painted model, you're essentially starting with step 5, but would also have to take steps to fade the paint. I suppose you could do steps 1-4 on the undersides and trucks, but you'd need to separate them from the shell. It may be worthwhile doing another video with the Solution Box showing how the materials can be used on a pre-painted model.
All told, not including drying time, it probably took about 3 hours. Not an ideal process if you have to weather 100 of them, but if this is going to be a showpiece or part of a smaller switching layout, it is a good time investment.
Because I was using the solution box, I wanted to use the paints from the box. However the same principle could be used for yellow, blue, green as well, but for all of those I would use a paler tone of each.
Normally, I would have added so-called base decals just after Step 4, and then take steps to wear them down before moving on to the next stages. I wanted to stick to the Solution Box process. What I will do next with this car is add decals for road numbers and data over the patches I added, but there won't otherwise be a company logo, fictional or otherwise, on this car. I did a video a while back on how to weather decals, which may help. Even at this point, I would seal the areas where I'd be adding the decals with a gloss coat and continue the process from there.
I make my own rust powder out of 0000 steel wool soaked in vinegar for several weeks. I always looks real 'cause it IS real rust, iron oxide. I use women's eye shadow makeup I get for $1.00 at the dollar store and it sticks better than any weathering powders one could ever hope to use. And it comes in every color under the sun. Cheers from eastern TN
I appreciate your articulation, and level of explanation. Thank you.
thank you John, very helpful.
Ammo by Mig Weathering Products are the Gold Standard for me.
They are solid and consistent products, which is what you want when trying to have consistent-looking effects :)
Super video John!!! I'm a steel mill modeler. Although I have cars to weather ... mostly gondolas ... it occurred to me how useful the Ammo Weathering Rust Solutions kit would be for steel mill structure rust effects!!!
This has steel mill stuff written all over it. :) Structures, rolling stock. Even the dust/splashes material in there can simulate the characteristic zinc dust that settles on steel mill equipment.
Great video! I will definitely be using this set for weathering my rolling stock and structures. Thank you! 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Now this is a great start to the weekend!!! 😍
It's good to have another video out. Thank you! :)
Great test video that helps a lot in deciding how to approach weathering. My complaint is that your text descriptions are displayed for too short a time.
Fair point. I decided to try a non-verbal narrative this time around. My intent was that viewers could simply pause the video at points rather than going back to replay to hear my voice. I'll keep that in mind for the next video I do in this style.
Ohh look at this! Who is using pigments there ;);););) great work as always John!
Yup. They're great for textures. :) I just don't use them often at N-Scale sizes :)
@@JCsRiptrack gotcha, i also don't use them on all projects, interesting that you didn't use them as a last step but went over them with other products! That often ended in a mess for me
Awesome tutorial
Great video John can u weather some cars that are used in steel mills like bottle cars and or hot metal cars .
Great idea. I'll see what I can do. This lends itself well to doing that kind of a car.
Super video John, You said in the video the decorated cars don't do as well so what issues does the kit cause?
The process from steps 1-4 assume undecorated as this type of technique applies the rust first and then applying and removing a layer of paint to simulate heavy wear. With a factory-painted model, you're essentially starting with step 5, but would also have to take steps to fade the paint. I suppose you could do steps 1-4 on the undersides and trucks, but you'd need to separate them from the shell.
It may be worthwhile doing another video with the Solution Box showing how the materials can be used on a pre-painted model.
The text was moving too fast for me to read. Try having the text on screen longer if you're not going to talk.
You can slow down the video by clicking on the settings "gear" symbol and and clicking playback speed.
And how many hours do you have in weathering this one boxcar?
All told, not including drying time, it probably took about 3 hours. Not an ideal process if you have to weather 100 of them, but if this is going to be a showpiece or part of a smaller switching layout, it is a good time investment.
Looks good but it’s overkill I think
The kit was designed for a rusting Iraqi tank, so that's understandable. I have found prototype pictures of boxcars that are this badly weathered.
Really wished you had used a different color car!
Because I was using the solution box, I wanted to use the paints from the box. However the same principle could be used for yellow, blue, green as well, but for all of those I would use a paler tone of each.
My only regret is I wish you would have used either an HO or O scale model …other than that this was an excellent tutorial
I'd love to try this on a HO scale or larger model. I'd still use the Scratches effects on HO Scale, but possibly the heavy chipping fluid on O-Scale.
I’m a pretty fast reader but not that fast
You started with an undecorated car, what about decals? You'll have grease decals on dirty old rust boxcar.
Normally, I would have added so-called base decals just after Step 4, and then take steps to wear them down before moving on to the next stages. I wanted to stick to the Solution Box process. What I will do next with this car is add decals for road numbers and data over the patches I added, but there won't otherwise be a company logo, fictional or otherwise, on this car. I did a video a while back on how to weather decals, which may help. Even at this point, I would seal the areas where I'd be adding the decals with a gloss coat and continue the process from there.