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Paint Alchemy | Avoiding Painter`s Remorse
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2021
- This comprehensive episode demonstrates how I paint and weather HO Scale Rolling Stock quickly and safely for both beginners and advanced modelers.
Water Based Paint Used:
Vallejo Air:
71.053 Dark Sea Grey
71,040 Burnt Umber
71.080 Rust
Isopropyl Based Tamiya Acrylic Paint Used:
X-21 Flat Base
Custom Rail Brown:
XF-1 Flat Black (75%)
XF-79 Linoleum Deck Brown (25%)
Note: Any Tamiya Brown will do fine.
Hi Boomer - Perhaps a suggestion for a future video? I'd love to have your advice on what paints to buy as a 'starter set' as it is easier for me to place a bulk order than buy one at a time. The brands you use are available to me, so maybe a rundown on what you always keep in stock for weathering and structure use would be useful to others also? (for other commentators:- Boomer knows I'm returning to the hobby after years in live steam)
Well Chris - If you have an airbrush I would recommend Tamiya. Since I think Isopropyl friendly paint is the way to go for weathering everything, including terrain, with a traditional brush (and lots of Isopropyl Alcohol) as well.
I also recommend Vallejo "Air" since it paints well with a traditional brush and can be airbrushed as well. They are both "water-based" paints.
Tamiya - Flat Black, Flat White, Flat Earth, Red Brown, Flat Green, Flat Yellow, Flat Blue, Flat Red and Flesh for starters.
Vallejo - They have way to many to list. I mean they will have fourteen yellow shades etc. . . lol.
I would start with one of their weathering kits, like rust and any earth color packs you can get your hands on. You can`t go wrong. I would also get a Nato Black, Bone white, Pale Blue Grey and Dark Sea Grey, as well with, Burnt Umber and Sand. This should do you well for starters. Cheers mate. - Boomer.
This is perfect.... I was just gonna ask this as well. I plan on going through your videos again and taking Iots of notes for what comes up the most. Really appreciate your videos.
This has changed my life. It's like everything else i've learned is backwards, This is addition but it acts like subtraction, and using the IPA makes creating 'patches' a breeze.
You sort of nailed it there, "This is addition but it acts like subtraction" Bravo! Cheers ~ Boomer.
👍
"Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it." - somebody
Thank You. Nothing happens unless we actually do it in the practical. Cheers. ~ Boomer.
It’s great to see this as a technique with some predicted outcome 😂. I accidentally did this technique on one my prize locomotives as I was trying Tamiya flat coat as a finish coat. 😮. The model went all white, I tho I was going to have to strip the paint job and start all over again. Instead I dry brushed the white flat off and wham 😊 a perfectly faded engine. Never new about the isopropyl power wash though. Thx for these tutorials, they’re awesome.
It's great when happy mistakes happen eh? 😁Keep making them and grow the skill set, or rather, the art of modeling and painting. Cheers ~ Boomer.
I get it now. If you find something you really like, but two of them. That way one can be realistic and the other is a "shelf queen" on display.
Exactly Frank . . . lol. Cheers.
Boomer, I specialize in weathering for customers and I’ve never seen this process before. You’ve definitely caught my attention!!!
It's just one (crazy) method I combine with what I feel comfortable with. Have at her if you will. ;-) Cheers.
Your videos give me confidence that I can also do this. I’m not too worried about weathering my mostly accurail fleet, but some of them barely get weathered because I feel my technique is off. I’m going to try your methods and get some more practice in. Thanks Boomer!
You can do it! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Great job boomer! Thanks for sharing your skills with us modelers!
You bet! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Awesome tips and great technique. Thanks for sharing your skills. Very good video quality as well. From NC, USA
Stay well. -Wil 👍
Thank you! Cheers! - Boomer.
WOW, GREAT technique. Car looks fantastic!
Thank you! Cheers!
I’m so inspired again! You’ve put the fun some fun back into model railroading for me. I can see the potential to continually age a car as the the railroad ages if you wanted to. Never stuck in the same year if you are a “freelance” railroad.
Go for it! Have fun! Cheers.
Nicely done! Thanks for sharing.
Cheers!
wow. that tanker is great... I showed this to my better half and she was like damn that's dirty and disgusting... seems to me you did a great job..😆.... stay safe mate. Neil🤠🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃
Lol . . . They look good up against a clean one. Cheers.
Still in awe and a touch of shock. Man - you are good and a gentleman of high character to share go many techniques. Thank you. I may find courage to direct a brush onto a Lionel TankTrain car. Or maybe several if my skill measures up to the task. If it looks reasonably good - I wonder which engine might need a little character for the rails?
Wow, thank you! I had the privileges' of an artistic career to play around with and develop techniques over the years. I jumped on every opportunity I could to advance my skill. Even though I worked extremely hard, I am somewhat guilty of taking it for granted at times. Now, I just want to pay it forward, especially to the younger generation as well. Thank you for your candor and compliments. Cheers. - Boomer.
Awesome to see the progression. I, like many, am fearful to weather my Exactrail, Tangent, and Genesis rolling stock, but I am gaining experience and confidence on some of my less expensive models. Great video Thanks.
That is how it works for all of us. Actually, I am more timid to weather a custom painted (undec) locomotive with Isopropyl Alcohol, rather than a stock Athearn Genesis. Why? Because the stock paint jobs are almost impossible to move with any medium, unless you soak them for 24 hours in Isopropyl Alcohol first. They are mostly impervious to Alcohol way before anything tragic can happen. Cheers. - Boomer.
Very cool :) I'm glad you made this video, because I just purchased my first tank car the other day, and I am already thinking about weathering it :)
I have a soft spot for the Athearn "genesis" tank cars. And then there is the updated scale wheel sets (.080" tread) that take them to another level.
Man this is so satisfying to watch and awesome results Boomer!
Glad you enjoyed it. Tough to pull off when the car is black and wet in terms of the video. Black is not a color. Cheers. - Boomer.
Another good way I've found is airbrushing the entire car with light layers of either acrylic charcoal gray thinned 50/50 or model masters ghost gray also 50/50, depending on the age of the car, the gray will add that serious gray fade found on many once black tank cars. Good vid!
Absolutely! Not one car really looks the same after awhile. In the end we all share and morph the methods we feel comfortable with at the end of the day. Cheers. - Boomer.
That looks amazing Boomer! That is just way cool. That BN box car, would love to see how you do the the fade on that between the rib sections. Thank you !
I`ll be doing another weathering tutorial soon. Cheers. - Boomer.
Another informative video. thank you for your hard work you put into these vids. We all appreciate it a ton !!!
My pleasure! I appreciate your input and compliments as well! - Boomer.
That's a really superb model Lovely weathering as well! Looks like its been carrying caustic soda. :-)
Thank You. I often wondered what they carry in these cars. I think they change up often as well. Not sure. Cheers.
That's OK I was just wondering. Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) leaves white crystals as a sediment when it evaporates. So that looks fantastic on your tanker. Wonderful weathering-you are a genius. :-)@@boomerdiorama
I love your weathering technique
Thank you! Cheers!
That is amazing, you make it look so easy. I don't have a spray gun but someday. Thanks again for yet another awesome video.
You are welcome Michael. Hide a Coffee Can under the bed and chuck change into it. That's what I do . . . lol. Cheers. - Boomer
Very well done and your explanation is super clear to understand. Love your approach to modelling.....never get too stressed. The other aspect of your videos is the fact that I live about 2 miles from Glover Rd and the Milner area....so it’s fun to watch your build with an area I am familiar with. Great job....thanks for your efforts.
Awesome, thank you! Milner is a cool area. We used to fly Radio Control model planes in Milner park until they outlawed it. Cheers.- Boomer
Great Job Boomer looks fantastic
Julian
Thank You. Cheers. - Boomer.
ggot paid early, what a pleasant surprise. she took me to get plaster and a shop vac, yes model railroad messes im super happy, and yes your tank car looks amazing
That is awesome. Thank You. Cheers. - Boomer.
that looks brilliant. I'd like to throw in a couple of things: always remember that if it's for your home layout you're kinda doing it for how you want it to look, it's for a you standard, not necessarily for a museum standard. dunno if that makes much sense though. like the grateful dead music too.... :)
Thank You. I really don`t have a standard anymore. Whatever mood I am in in, usually dictates the outcome. It`s just the way it comes out after the applied process while I am having fun. I try not to over think it. It just sounds like over-thinking when trying to articulate it in a tutorial. If it passes the individuals "eye-test" then it is good to go for me. Cheers. - Boomer.
Excellent tips shown, very informative. Techniques that I will surely try out in future. Thanks for sharing and upload, all the best. Brian @ The Angels
Thank You Brian! Cheers. - Boomer.
It’s like watching bob ross. Happy little mistakes. Great job
Yes indeed! I used to love watching old Ross. ;-)
Very good! I like your method. I do mine a little different. I definitely like the air brush power washing. She looks beautiful!!! Well done my friend. I did some yesterday. Airside hopper got re-painted and detailed. Thank you for the great insight!
Thanks for sharing Mike. Sounds great! You are always welcome. Cheers. - Boomer.
Wow... just wow
Thank You Peter. I want everyone else to experience "wow" for themselves as well. - Boomer.
In real life, the TILX 252000 series of tank cars are fairly new....perhaps between 1-3 years old. The weathered look you applied makes the car look like it has been misused and abused by either the loader or unloader. So keeping the other tank car new looking is actually very realistic. Fantastic weathering!!
Thanks for input on the car period. I was sure I bought them over three years ago though. Anyway. Makes good sense. Cheers.
Thank you for posting this video. This car turned out so amazingly well, I'm going to give your technique a try on some of my cars.
Glad it was helpful. Make sure you experiment with some cheap cars until you get some confidence. You never will have full control of what the Alcohol does but 99 times out of 100 it is good! I mean after all, it is weathering the way the real world weathers, when you think about it. Cheers ~ Boomer
That was really cool!
Thank you John. - Boomer.
Boy oh boy how I wanted to play along. But I'm just painting and weathering some passenger cars that were well cleaned. I'll add variety though.
Anyway, this was awesome, thanks for sharing with us all!
Cheers. It`s always nice to hear from you. - Boomer.
You know I'm practically your stalker. I mean student, STUDENT!
Seriously speaking I do like the positivity and just going with the creative flow. It's so rare nowadays to find people like you who are full of wondering and curiosity about the world. Just nice.
@@rafaelvoncina6036 Bless You Sir. - Boomer.
Like it,I have to try your method,much easier than some I've seen
Go for it! It never hurts to try something new. You might like it or combine it with another method. Take risks and you will grow in leaps and bounds. Even when you make mistakes just forge ahead! I still makes mistakes but who cares. We won't grow if we don't. ;-)
That's a great little technique you got there! Thanks for sharing, I have 4 corn syrup tankers that are crying for some weathering, looks like this will fit the bill for them. I need to order me up some Tamiya paints when I finally get ready to do some railcar detailing
Sounds great! I think I`ll leave the other one clean with just the trucks weathered up a bit, and then a flat coat. - Boomer.
Woah!!!!! Now THAT is quite an awesome technique; I have ALOT of tank cars that I have to weather...I’m definitely going to practice this! Thank you so much for sharing! I can definitely see this being a technique used to weather multiple cars.
Glad it was helpful! Have fun. When in doubt. Less is better. - Boomer.
Did you weather any of your tank cars? Did you use a small modelers paint booth? Im older than god but just starting this journey with my firt airbrush, new compressor, tamiya and vallejo paints...I almost need a 2nd mortgage for my o gauge trainboard stuff...gary j
I appreciate your approach to modeling, especially in your use of the airbrush. I use a carbon dioxide source (small tank for home brewed keg beer) fitted with two stage regulator. The gas is dry, the pressure is easily regulated, and there is no compressor noise (good late at night). I really like the use of the Tamiya X-21 and will try it soon. Kennedy
The quiet airbrush set-up is a great option, especially in the house. Cheers.
Great video, another must try. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks for watching! You are welcome as well! - Boomer.
Great job. I have never used a airbrush.
You should try one. Just buy a cheap one. They all work the same really. Then practice on a piece of cardboard, with cheap paint, thinned with water. - Boomer.
The Vallejo can also be manipulated with the airbrush thinner they make. Cheers
Yes indeed! Thank you.
Boomer, this is a really interesting technique - thank you for sharing! I’ve got a bunch of lower cost rolling stock and I will definitely give this a try.
Glad it was helpful! It also works for buildings and ground cover as well. Cheers. - Boomer.
Wow but i can wait .
👍
Looks great
Thanks! I appreciate your compliment Dave! Cheers. - Boomer.
Excellent.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice job Boomer, looks fantastic. I use a very similar technique... Works awesome. Take care. -grant
Cheers.
How would you go about weathering an antique craftsman kit, or any multimedia kit for that matter? Seal it completely with enamel first? The thought of saturating a wood caboose with isopropyl leaves me kinda cringey. AWESOME channel by the way, just love the realism. Your skills are definitely appreciated. Want to build a shelf layout, but with 880 sq. ft., even a shelf is tough.
With a wood or multi media kit I would seal it first with enamel clear before using Isopropyl Alcohol on it . . . but not water-based Vallejo paint. The latter is safe as can be. It is always a good idea to seal a paint layer for the former subject matter you just mentioned.
The only time I seal a model is if I am concerned about the original paint bleed concerning the base coat. So then, seal it with Acrylic (Clear, Satin, Flat) if you use oils over top. Solvent won`t permeate the Acrylic layer. STAY AWAY FROM TURPENTINE!
If you want to put (Isopropyl based) Acrylic over Enamel (like Tamiya), have at it to your hearts content. You can`t strip enamel with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Isopropyl Alcohol won`t even strip a stock model train color unless it is soaked over night. Even the font and reporting marks on stock cars won`t move that easily. But they do vary from manufacture to manufacture. But you can see it did nothing to the Atlas car even when I rubbed it down aggressively.
If you like the old decrepit look don`t underestimate what Alcohol can do (in terms of oxidization) on an old wooden caboose. At the end of the day, I am not afraid to take risks. If you are, then don`t do it. Having said this, I have a system that is pretty much fail safe and I stick to it for the most part. Cheers. - Boomer.
Just wanted to say that it looks good from the top down, but from the bottom up, needs some more business.
Floquil use to make great enamel RR colors and they had, Grime, Dust, weathered black. They were great colors for the bottom of railroad cars.
What I did to get "road grime" was a 3' section of flex track and the airbrush. Elevated both ends of the flex track and let a car roll by while you painted it from the underside.
I work for the RR and road grime in everywhere and on everything.
Those are great pointers you mention. I used to love those "Floquil" colors back in the day. I also used to love Humbrol enamels as well but got sick of cleaning the airbrush with stinky (toxic) solvents which also kill the airbrush. Especially if you shoot paint commercially - no more stinky paint for me. I`m sold on the two Acrylic choices I use now and I would prefer to mix my own colors. Cheers mate. - Boomer.
I got rid of all of my favorite things, enamel paint, and now only water based acrylics. Vallejo Model Air is good stuff, just a couple drops, good to go.
@@subsailor1445 I have been addicted to Tamiya paint for twenty five years. I still have a bottle or two of Floquil, Testors (Rust), and Humbrol (Umber), kicking around as well. I just started using Vallejo a few years ago. I love the color selection and the eye-dropper bottle. Very convenient. So now I combine the two and have grown comfortable with them on my models. Cheers. - Boomer.
I am so glad I found your channel! I can’t wait to give your system a shot. I do have two questions for you, if I may...
Firstly, will this system work with craft-store type acrylics?
Secondly, what percent isopropyl alcohol would you recommend?
Thanks so much for sharing your techniques!
Firstly, I am sure you can use, or adapt, the technique to accommodate Craft-store type acrylic paint. You would have to use water. I would test the Isopropyl Alcohol with the Craft paint in order to test the compatibility. Some use it successfully. Sometimes, "ill-effects" can work in one's favor when it comes to rust and corrosion.
The reason I use Tamiya is because it is 100% compatible with water and Isopropyl Alcohol. I do not mix Isopropyl with Vallejo paint or Craft paint, even though you might have success. On the other hand, you can use Isopropyl to strip almost any Acrylic paint in one way or another.
Secondly, I buy 99% Isopropyl Alcohol because I can water it down. Therefore, I get more for the money at the end of the day. It mixes with water perfectly. The ratio of the percentage of Isopropyl Alcohol is determined by the ratio of water. e.g. Mix 50/50 (99% Isopropyl with tap water) and you get 50% Isopropyl strength Alcohol. Tamiya paint can be thinned "almost" perpetually (*when using an airbrush) because of it`s rich pigment.
Try different methods. Play around with the product, (take a few risks), and you will open possibilities for weathering everything, including other models, different materials (wood, plastic, etc.), track, buildings etc. Establish a system and your confidence will grow in leaps-and-bounds.
You are welcome. - Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions! Too bad it isn’t possible to upload pictures in the reply section to show how things went...
I usually spray my rolling stock with Dullcote before weathering and never get that ‘Oh crap!’ effect. In your opinion, does this make it ‘toothier’ (to use your verbage) than the spray? I really like how you always show the products you are using. It makes it easy to have a list when I go t the local HobbyTown, which hardly has it most of the time anyway. They are more of an RC shop. Thanks and take care.
Great point Thom. I use Dullcote if I am nervous about moving an underlying layer on a favorite locomotive. For example: I like to use Dullcote (as a barrier) if I mix mediums, like putting Acrylic over top of Oil based paint. Why? Because oils can take a long period to dry. The Dullcote barrier will resist the "Oh crap" effect I do not desire. I will also use Dullcote to knock down the sheen after decal application (over a gloss or satin layer), and sealing the colors in, etc. Dull coat can also add another desirable "light refraction" layer that looks cool as well. Cheers. - Boomer.
Impressive tutorial for sure but couldn't you just leave the tanker car in the garden for a few months to get the same effect?
Lol . . . Plastic takes ages to weather outdoors . . . Cheers.
Very nice, I've picked up a bunch of assorted cars to practice with, I see Vallejo have a pack of paints recommended for railroad, what would your go to colors be? as always your advice is respected and appreciated.
My go-to colors out of the gate are any Umber variations like Dark brown, Red brown, Nato black, Rust and Sand (or Earth). Any, and all, earth tone colors are a must. The trick with Vallejo is just water and super thin washes, layer upon layer until you like it. Work a cheap boxcar over and you will catch on to what you like. - Boomer.
In addition to Boomer's answer: I use a lot of Vallejo Model Color 70.822 German c. black brown. Great for chasiss and bogies. Applied as a glaze with an airbrush. Beats shiny black any time.
@@rafaelvoncina6036 We are certainly blessed with a plethora of paint and color options in this hobby for sure.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you..
@@rafaelvoncina6036 much obliged..
Bouncing around trying to catch up on your tutorials, this is an excellent one on weathering. One question, when you "pressure wash" with IPA what pressure do you have your compressor at?
30-70 PSI. It all depends on the feel of things. You get a feel for it after doing it a few times. I hope that makes sense. Cheers.
Looks good but the ends need kick-up dirt from the wheels. Don't you think?
Probably . . . at some point. At one end there is actually. On the other end there is a walk way (tight to the tank) preventing it. Cheers.
Great technique....tank car looks awesome....I was with you until the airbrush came out (don’t own one)...but as you say, I can stop at that point....does it matter how long you let the chalk coat dry?
Thank You. You don`t actually need an airbrush to weather anyway. The airbrush is just another paint brush (with additional options). Good question on the dry time of the Tamiya X-21 (Chalk). I don`t think it really matters. At least I have not noticed any difference. The issues begin or develop with the individual and their methods of addition paint options. Cheers. Just remember, Isopropyl will loosen up the the underlying layer you have previously applied to some degree. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama thanks
@@georgiasunbelt Cheers! - Boomer.
So can you give us a link to the paint booth you use. My layout , 0 gauge, 18ft by 24 ft, and worktable is in my celler, 18 steps down. Forced air is ciculated thruout the house upstairs by very large ducts thru the furnace. All the 18 inch by 24 inch no screen small cellar windows are always kept closed, all but 2 longed ago sealed. So ill have to think this thru. Here in nj, have perhaps 3 months to work on my outdoor deck perhaps a good alternative. Or my garage, now filled with stuff. A fan in the cellar would not push much out of 2 small windows 20 feet away from my worktable. You see my dilemma to work thru? A very small modelers paint booth , fan, motor, filter, seems to start at $200 usd....gary j
I don't use a paint booth because Isopropyl Alcohol is non-toxic and I only shoot very little amounts of paint. I open a window and turn on a fan. I never used a spray booth in film or theater either when using acrylic paints.
Most rail cars get re-painted after 15 plus years in most cases.
Depends who owns them.😁
Another master class Boomer
Thank You Peter. Cheers to you Sir. - Boomer.
Instead of tthe Tamik flat, wouldn't Testors Dullccote work the same way to provide tooth?
Testors Dullcote is awesome if you can still get it.
Great stuff Boomer can I ask what did you dilute the Vallejo with water or Ipa I think I missed you say , once again thanks Fred
Never IPA with Vallejo . . . NEVER! Unless, of course you desire special effects . . . lol.
I just use water. Preferably distilled water.😁
@@boomerdiorama I thought so I tried a few days ago and hey did I have problems now I know why thanks 😎👌
Boomer, hello again!
Long term subscriber here, re visiting your back catalogue..
I do a TON of weathering and use almost exclusively powders / pigments and Enamel thinners / lacquer etc
How do you find you get on with these mediums?
Cheers!
Those mediums you use are fine but I don't use them. I use mostly all water based acrylics and oil paint.
@@boomerdiorama I need to give oils a try
WOW you make look so easy. What % isopropyl are you using?
I use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. Just add water to reduce the percentage. I never do anyway. Cheers.
Are you thinning the model air with isopropyl or water in the pallete?
I thin the "Vallejo" Model Air Acrylic with water only! I never thin Vallejo (Model Air) Acrylic with Isopropyl because it is not 100% compatible like Tamiya is. Although, I do strip away Vallejo Model Air layers of paint, ( or clean it with Isopropyl if I airbrush with it, which I rarely do). I also thin Tamiya with water as well. This is why I like Tamiya, it thins well with both mediums (Water & Isopropyl). The theory behind this mixed media method is the variance of effects (at a small scale) the two mediums create. Cheers. - Boomer.
Are you using #5 or#6 switches? What number is the curved switch?
The switches (Turnouts) are actually closer to #7. The curved switch is #10. I build them from the "free" fast-tracks paper templates here: www.handlaidtrack.com/track-templates
I have 4 of these in N scale, and I have the same fears
I see lots of "Oil Cans" in fairly good condition as well. Try weathering a cheap boxcar. Nothing is learned without the practical. Cheers. - Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama I have had excellent luck with a few boxcars and especially with gondolas. I’m thinking about lightly weathering my 25,500 gallon tankers AFTER I practice on some less pricey 20,000 gallon tank cars. Again thank you for showing us a technique I personally have never seen before. You are a blessing to the model railroad community! Cheers Boomer!🍻 -Ian
@@ianisaacs2340 You are welcome Ian. God Bless You. - Boomer.
It is hard to follow the techniques you use visually; could use better lighting to lessen the shadows. Other than that it looks like a very effective technique to get a fleet up and rolling in due course. 👍
Sorry about that. It`s the nature of a black car and the limited space I have. Try photographing a black car that is wet as well. It`s not easy especially with video. Besides, it's below zero outside as well. If I use anymore lights the car will melt . . . lol. Furthermore, Isopropyl is highly flammable which is why I prefer to do it outside. Cheers.
I like messy rolling stock. Am I the only one that would run it totally chalky?lol
No . . . lol.