Tricks for Awesome Looking Decals
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- Опубликовано: 16 янв 2019
- Applying decals to model trains can really make them look fantastic. Get it right, and they look awesome, get it wrong, and you may end up with a silvery wrinkled mess. This video deals with some basic tricks in order to get consistent great-looking decals on your models. Whether you are weathering model trains, painting model trains, or applying them to any other type of model, you can use these tricks for applying waterslide transfers to your models.
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Products and Equipment Featured or Used in this Video:
The following are affiliate links to Amazon. I receive a small commission if purchases are made through these:
Tools for Applying Decals:
Self-healing Cutting Mat: amzn.to/2SYmVw0
Hobby Knife: amzn.to/2Mg8H74
Hobby Blades: amzn.to/2VZGE0f
Micro-Set: amzn.to/2FGKllS
Micro-Sol: amzn.to/2FGi8LH
3-Pack - Micro-Set, Micro-Sol, Decal Setting Solution: amzn.to/2FEFdyt
Citadel/Games Workshop ‘Ardcoat: amzn.to/2DeYdSG
Clear Gloss Spray:
Testor’s Glosscote: amzn.to/2CqTGuz
Tamiya X-24 Clear Yellow: amzn.to/2swPTHy
Tamiya X-22 Clear: amzn.to/2W1GPIb
Just because it’s in the Video:
Microtrains N-Scale 70’ Husky Well Stack Car: amzn.to/2FGkI4l
(This is a CSX version)
Polar Lights 1/350-Scale Enterprise (with Aztec Decals): amzn.to/2FF2wbn
Grex Genesis XGi3 Airbrush Starter Set amzn.to/2E6l1pg
(Dual-action Gravity Feed airbrush, compressor, braided 6ft hose, and a getting started DVD)
This is an updated version of the combo set that I started with. The advantage of this newer version is that if you wanted to swap out needle sizes, it can be done with upgrade kits, and it comes with different sizes of paint cups. It comes with a 0.3mm needle as standard. This also comes with the same compressor that you saw in the video. I’ve been very happy with my setup. It has done everything I’ve asked it to. Fittings on this airbrush and hose are ⅛” which are compatible with Iwata hoses.
Grex Genesis XGi3 Airbrush alone: amzn.to/2P89mHz
Equipment & Software:
Sony SLT-A55 DSLR (Link is for the A68) - amzn.to/2x81GOv
Zoom H4n Handy Recorder: amzn.to/2K3TdBY
Boya BY-M1 Universal Lavalier Microphone - amzn.to/2Qml0QO
Manfrotto 190X Pro Tripod - amzn.to/2Nz4vCu
Adobe Creative Cloud:
Photoshop CC 2018, Premiere Pro CC 2018, Audition CC 2018, After Effects CC 2018.
Learn How to use them: amzn.to/2Nz4z5c
Credits:
Music: "Engine No. 9" by Les Hooper
© 1981 Birch Island Music Press, Sole Selling Agent: C.L. Barnhouse Co., Oskaloosa, IA
Used with Permission 
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So what tricks or experience do you have in applying decals?
Oh it's been ages.
Can't rightly recal the last set of waterslide decals I applied myself, though there is a pile of identical Concor Conrail 40' boxcars on my workbench that are awaiting 're-caling' to a proper numbering scheme.
Good stuff John! I've had good luck with store-bought decals. Not so much with homemade. Decided to outsource my graffiti to an artist I know at work to do oil paints. Will let you know how that comes out. Looking forward to your vids on homemade decals, maybe I can get it to work.
Homemade decals are fun, with one major caveat. I can't do white, and yellow is very tricky to do over anything other than a light surface. Printers that can do white ink are rather pricey.
Great video. Will be my go to reference for my new hobby! Thank you
Thank you. That was helpful.
Thanks John. It pays to get it right especially when a decal set is out of production. Great job!
Indeed. I didn't put anything in about how to refresh or renew old decals... they can sometimes fall apart even when you follow everything that I've mentioned. Testor's Decal Bonder spray can help rejuvenate old decal sheets too.
Pledge Floor Finish works as a gloss coat, underneath and over top. You can apply it by brush or airbrush. Thanks for the video, a lot of useful tips for "deckles". Terry
I've used future as well, and it does work nicely. For decals, I prefer to brush it on over the decals before airbrushing over the whole thing.
Applying to a flat surface was my problem. Now I know needs to be glossy. Makes sense thanks!
I'm Welsh and I pronounce them the same as you! (i.e as in 'freckle!)
Cymru Am Byth!
Never heckle when applying a deckle!
Using warm water help big size decal working. It transferring pretty nicely without any break trough
Fantastic video. N scale is so tricky to work with and one needs very good eyesight too so watching you apply those tiny decals on the flatbeds was so thrilling🥰👍Lovely video.
Another very helpful tutorial John!,, now I know where I've gone wrong in the past. Thanks for doing these great how to videos!
Glad to offer it Jeff. A lot of this is what I've picked up and learned from other modelers. We all have something we can share.
Deck-ulls, eh?
What's that a boot?
Here's a bit of irony: Canadians that do use "eh?" and have a stronger-sounding "aboot" usually pronounce it dee-cal. :) The joys of regional dialects. :)
I'm working on the 1/32 Flying Sub from Moebius. Lots of photo etch substitutes with minute holes where the blinking lights and little dials have to go! Before applying the many decals I made the surface as smooth as possible by applying Humbrol Clearfix from behind the PE bits. I plan to apply Tamiya Mark Fit to the painted PE's before I slide the decals into position. When everything's dry and satisfactory-looking I will brush a final coat of Mark Fit over the decals. The idea is to place one or two LEDs behind every console. Some of the decals are so small (approx. 1 mm) I will probably color the minuscule Clearfixed holes from behind with little dabs of bright red, blue, yellow, green, orange and purple. I think this will look very realistic. Wish me luck.
Great video!
Thanks Kory! Congrats on your recent milestone!
Sweet, so far im going something right lol. thanks for your help.
No problem, glad to offer it. The main thing is sandwiching them between layers of gloss. Flat coats can come later :)
Great site ,just found it and glad I did...subscribed ! Now to catch up and watch a bunch of your vids.Nice to see a fellow Canadian and N scale too.....beauty.
...now then....decals ,colour and cheques (see ,told you I was a Hoser)LOL Keep up the great vids !! BTW -you into rockets ? I see you have some rocket vids,but yet to watch them.I fly everything from Estes to high power (CAR level 3)
Thanks Paul. Welcome aboard! Yes, there are several rocket videos buried on this channel from before I changed it to JC's Riptrack (I should make a playlist of those). I didn't get to do a lot last summer. I do low power to mid power. My largest is Mega Der Red Max. THAT was an exercise in large decals!
I could not tell the difference when using or not using gloss before putting on decals on never had silvering or micro bumps 🤷 but going to try using a dab of dish soap in water for an easier slide.
thank you for vids. i have scratchbuilt cars of wood or styrene, airbrushed trucolor lacquer paint. so the surface is a little rough, and in the case of passenger cars grooved. should i still apply gloss b4 decals? is spray vallejo varnish good? i mean instead of brushing ? i also have trucolor flat and gloss, think i should use those ?
I think in the future a will apply decals or dry transfers before the assembly of the building.
I use toothpicks to handle and position my decals.
Toothpicks may have the benefit of not accidentally cutting the decal that a #11 blade might. :)
DECAL is pronounce with a long E DEE CAL. That' because the VOWEL is followed by a CONSONANT and another VOWEL. In order for it to be pronounced as you do the word would be spelled DECKAL or DECCAL. My two cents...Thanks for the video.
While that may be true, regional accents and dialects create unusual pronunciations. "Dodecahedron" for example has the "deca" part of it pronounced "dekka" for example. Normally, when talking to each other, us Canadians pronounce it the way I do in the video, but I do recognize that it is not the common way of doing so in the United States.
As long as you got the goods I dont care if you call them depots or whatever, and thanks for the heads up. 🙂
Is there a way to print white decals? (laser)
Not easily. Printers that can print with white ink are more expensive than even 3D printers. Specialized printing shops have them. The places that do make Decals, such as Micro-Scale, Black cat or Highball have access to a professional-grade printer that can print with white ink. My home-made decal efforts are usually printed on clear decal film.
Got it, thanks. I'll see what I can do. My last option would be to pay those Highball guys. They make good stuff, but it sure looks quite pricy!
They may be pricy, but it is still cheaper than buying a printer that can print white ink. :) But yeah, I get it.
Have I had disasters??? all the time, total tear downs and repaints just because the decals were wrong
Sounds about right, I still do have issues from time to time too. If you look carefully and pause the completed shot, you can see that one of the tiny decals on the middle car drifted a bit during drying, and I didn't notice until it was sealed.
I notice you pronounce KATO as CAT-OH. I always say KAITE-OH. I find a lot of US modelers call it CAT-OH as well. I imagine CAT-OH is right but I like the sound of KAYE-T-oh better.
I don't get it. Went and spent money on the Micro Sol, but all it does is ruin my decals. Wrinkles and discolors them terribly. And you touch them at all after application to smooth them, they disintegrate!
Micro-Sol can be tricky to work with. I've not had the discolouration issue, what kind of decals were you using? However, you have discovered that once you apply micro-sol to a decal, touching them almost guarantees that they'll fall apart. What I've found helpful is to place the decals using micro-set first, allow them to dry, and then apply the micro-sol to dissolve the decal film and let it flatten down to the surface of the model. You can email me through the "contact us" tab on my channel, and I can give you some more specific tips!
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks! I'm just a little frustrated. I'm not sure exactly how old this model kit is, it's a Bandai Macross design originally from the 80's. I assumed it was remade and reissued recently, but I'm having trouble with the plastic reacting strangely with paint, and having terrible luck with the decals.
Any advise for decals that fall right off a day or two after applying them?
Btw, I did wash all parts with hot water and a drop of dish soap. Scrubbed with new toothbrush, and rinsed with hot water... before starting.
@@JCsRiptrack Also, I am using micro set first, then sol after.
I wonder. Is the kit itself an 80's vintage kit with the original decals, or is it a newer release with updated ones? You could also be dealing with old decals, which need some TLC before applying them to a model. After decals are completely dry, including after the micro-sol, you'll need to carefully brush on a clear acrylic gloss varnish of some sort to protect the decal. Don't use a spray for this, as it can frost the decal. After the brush-on varnish has dried, and they're sealed in, then you can apply any additional clear coats and even touch the decals without having to worry about them flaking off.
Okay good. Try letting the micro-set dry first before using the micro-sol. The wrinkling you've experienced can happen shortly after the micro-sol is applied, but it eventually is supposed to settle down, as the material is softening the decal in different places at different rates.
Uhhh...using a blade, all I did was end up cutting the decal, rather than move it. I don't think trying to move a decal with an X-acto-knife type blade is a good idea.
It is a gentle touch, and if it isn’t moving, wet the decal slightly and do that. Otherwise a brush can work, the tip of a hobby knife is more accurate. However, if the decal is old or brittle, then it could disintegrate.
decckles is the right pronunciation. Does not irritate me. What does irritate (beyond description) is the US pronunciation of soldering it requires the "L". NOT soddering. That has to do with sod. it is S-O-L-D-E-Ring. With and "L". The giveaway is, um, in the spelling.
I seriously can't even watch this, hearing him say deckulls over and over is making me want to hide in a cave for a decade.
The joys of a Canadian peculiarity of speech. :) Sorry if you find it grating.
@@JCsRiptrack I'm sorry. I have nothing but respect for you Canadians. I just had a rough day and wanted to take a snarky stab at the first thing that annoyed me.
And... I am trying to do N scale chalk graffiti on weathered rolling stock. They look like little fuzz particles and i don't have any of the fancy decal liquids.
I'm actually mostly mad at Trudeau though. I wish he would just be real and meet with the loud gentle ones. If there's no debate, there's no democracy.
You're allowed to. Besides, I've had enough people comment on my odd pronunciations that I'm used to it. No offense taken. For doing chalk graffiti on rolling stock, are you doing hobo markings or railworker labels? You can hand draw it with a white paint pen if you can find a tip that is fine enough, and use the edge of it. Once it dries, you can rub it with your finger to give it a more chalky-like look. Just make sure it dries , otherwise you may end up smearing it!