that is how I use them also once I noticed that on the bottles, I put the "set" on the surface, with a soaked Q-tip (cotton swab) and then place the deeecal, and then add the "sol" to soften it as most of the slot car body surfaces are curved, grooved, etc, not flat and this seems best for getting them to sit down nice and conform to the shape. I have to try using a soft paint brush to move them around and slide them off the backing paper, have been using my finger, but that has not always worked out well.
Thank you for sharing and the content. Most folks seem to recommend using both solutions all the time. Microset to prep the surface and when the decal has begun to attach to the surface, apply Microsol on top; The information in the video suggests to only use one or the other pending the shape of the surface the decal is being adhered to. Your video is also consistent with the Microscale website but differs from the majority of the RUclips community....
I am learning to build better models again, so I bought Micro Sol and used it for decals an a 1/72 plane. I'm impressed at the way it made the decals sink into the panel gaps. Much improvement over the kits I built 25 years ago!
Maybe you covered this but can you talk about CA glue vs Tamiya extra thin cement. Does CA require an activator. What is the best to use on polystyrene. Painted v non-painted parts. Clear parts to be exact. My jet canopies look terrible. Using testers glue.
As a quick response in the meantime, use canopy glue or one of the specialty clear cements on the market. Any mistakes with regular cement are hard to fix and CA has a tendency to permanently create a fog like condensation on clear parts that never goes away. The clear cements are a tack bond and can be used on painted surfaces.
@@hobcen I was looking for a specific name of a canopy glue but with that information I can ask the fella at my local hobby store. Not sure if he’ll know be cause he doesn’t build models and he’s only 18. Most his replies start with uuuuuuhhhh, and end with, I’m not so sure.
just read the bottle Micro Sol RED bottle Softens Decals to conform to Irregular Surfaces for a "Painted on look" Micro Set BLUE bottle Softens Decals and Improves Adhesion - decal remover so if flat surface just use blue .. if you need to cover panel lines or not flat used red let dry then you can use blue if needed if you want better adhesion
Tried them and dont like them. They have an aggressive action...the last thing you want near delicate decals. For curved, difficult surfaces, i just use warm water and a hair dryer...works perfectly...even when moulding to rivets and crevices.
We weren't going for a "one or the other" argument, more of "what do they do". Sometimes one will do the job. But when you have those tricky applications....
It is always best, in my experience to put decals on a gloss surface or semi-gloss at a minimum. The flat refers to the paint finish. When applied to flat paint decals will tend to lift and have that "silvering" on the edges. On older models that I did this with I found the decals rubbed off over time and got flaky, even with a clear coat over them. (Bill)
@@hobcen Thanks for clarifying. Haven’t heard that word used in that expression before. Can you put decals straight onto plastic if it looks glossy? Thanks again
@@hobcen I agree with that as I have experienced it often, before discovering Microsol and Microset. Decals on a Hawker Typhoon I built, with my best efforts to detail it up and so on, ruined because the decals just peeled and came off in pieces. It may be more to do putting on Gloss clearcoat, decals and then your preferred clearcoat (matt, satin or gloss), but the results are worth it after all your hard work and skill that you put into it.
off topic strange question .... if i know the scale of something IE 1/2500 and i have the length of the model IE 5 inch how do I fig out how big the thing was in full size???
@@hobcen ty ok note to self scale times model length = real length in inches .. so we will call it 1,041.5 / by 3 to get meters is is just under 350M .. sweet thats about what i was hoping 🙂
I've never heard the deck-uhl pronunciation until the last week when I heard a Brit pronouncing it that way in a video. Since, I have heard it several times. I think its some pretentious way of thinking you sound British by saying it that way. Like al-u-mini-um
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They are numbered as well. 1 for initial application and 2 for final application.
that is how I use them also once I noticed that on the bottles, I put the "set" on the surface, with a soaked Q-tip (cotton swab) and then place the deeecal, and then add the "sol" to soften it as most of the slot car body surfaces are curved, grooved, etc, not flat and this seems best for getting them to sit down nice and conform to the shape. I have to try using a soft paint brush to move them around and slide them off the backing paper, have been using my finger, but that has not always worked out well.
Thank you for sharing and the content. Most folks seem to recommend using both solutions all the time. Microset to prep the surface and when the decal has begun to attach to the surface, apply Microsol on top; The information in the video suggests to only use one or the other pending the shape of the surface the decal is being adhered to. Your video is also consistent with the Microscale website but differs from the majority of the RUclips community....
Nicely done. Saw a few vids. Yours is my fav. Wish your store was in my neighborhood. Will check you out online. Cheers,
I am learning to build better models again, so I bought Micro Sol and used it for decals an a 1/72 plane. I'm impressed at the way it made the decals sink into the panel gaps. Much improvement over the kits I built 25 years ago!
Thank you for sharing your experience and glad we could help!
Thanks for this one. Just a thought... link to website in the description?
Thank you for the feedback. It is done!
Maybe you covered this but can you talk about CA glue vs Tamiya extra thin cement. Does CA require an activator. What is the best to use on polystyrene. Painted v non-painted parts. Clear parts to be exact. My jet canopies look terrible. Using testers glue.
@@kevinheuman3623 Great suggestions. We'll work on these.
As a quick response in the meantime, use canopy glue or one of the specialty clear cements on the market. Any mistakes with regular cement are hard to fix and CA has a tendency to permanently create a fog like condensation on clear parts that never goes away. The clear cements are a tack bond and can be used on painted surfaces.
@@hobcen I was looking for a specific name of a canopy glue but with that information I can ask the fella at my local hobby store. Not sure if he’ll know be cause he doesn’t build models and he’s only 18. Most his replies start with uuuuuuhhhh, and end with, I’m not so sure.
Most stores carry Micro Kristal Klear. Testors produced Clear Parts Cement. Try those on him. Good luck!
@ Thank you Sir! 🫡
DECALS vs DECKOLS😅
the eternal debate....LOL
deeeeeecals. not deckals!! :P
just read the bottle
Micro Sol RED bottle Softens Decals to conform to Irregular Surfaces for a "Painted on look"
Micro Set BLUE bottle Softens Decals and Improves Adhesion - decal remover
so if flat surface just use blue .. if you need to cover panel lines or not flat used red let dry then you can use blue if needed if you want better adhesion
Excellent points!
"DecKal"???
DeeKal??!! LOL
Decal😂
I'm 73 years old i've never heard of a Dec-kal
lol
Definitely dee kal
Thank you good sir!! Straight forward explanation of the two. Much appreciated.
Thank you!
Tried them and dont like them. They have an aggressive action...the last thing you want near delicate decals. For curved, difficult surfaces, i just use warm water and a hair dryer...works perfectly...even when moulding to rivets and crevices.
Thank you for sharing your experiences and techniques.
There's no microsol vs microset argument. You have to use them together. They're literally made to be used together.
We weren't going for a "one or the other" argument, more of "what do they do". Sometimes one will do the job. But when you have those tricky applications....
Walthers passenger car diagrams don’t say to use Micro Set. Just say cut and dip, stand for a minute, slide on, brush Micro Sol.
Likely their experience has shown that the Walthers decals may be a little tougher to lay down so they advise going right to a stronger solution.
Don’t put decals on a flat surface? Does flat mean something else when it comes to decals?
It is always best, in my experience to put decals on a gloss surface or semi-gloss at a minimum. The flat refers to the paint finish. When applied to flat paint decals will tend to lift and have that "silvering" on the edges. On older models that I did this with I found the decals rubbed off over time and got flaky, even with a clear coat over them. (Bill)
@@hobcen Thanks for clarifying. Haven’t heard that word used in that expression before. Can you put decals straight onto plastic if it looks glossy?
Thanks again
Yes decals can go on unpainted smooth surfaces too. Always good to put a clwar coat over them whatever the application.
@@hobcen Thanks again
@@hobcen I agree with that as I have experienced it often, before discovering Microsol and Microset. Decals on a Hawker Typhoon I built, with my best efforts to detail it up and so on, ruined because the decals just peeled and came off in pieces. It may be more to do putting on Gloss clearcoat, decals and then your preferred clearcoat (matt, satin or gloss), but the results are worth it after all your hard work and skill that you put into it.
off topic strange question .... if i know the scale of something IE 1/2500 and i have the length of the model IE 5 inch how do I fig out how big the thing was in full size???
Not a strange question at all. Your 1/2500 item is 5" long. so 2500 X 5" = 12500" or 1041.67'
@@hobcen ty ok note to self scale times model length = real length in inches .. so we will call it 1,041.5 / by 3 to get meters is is just under 350M .. sweet thats about what i was hoping 🙂
Ok, why is everyone pronouncing it "de-kal"?
It's pronounced "dee-kal"!
I think it's a Canuck thing?!
I've never heard the deck-uhl pronunciation until the last week when I heard a Brit pronouncing it that way in a video. Since, I have heard it several times. I think its some pretentious way of thinking you sound British by saying it that way. Like al-u-mini-um
Very good explanation enjoyed
Glad you liked it
Round shekels?
You mean deckels? A lot of us in Canada pronounce it that way but we're learning you all prefer deekals. :)
OMG..lol...I had to look up that you were saying ....lol..Decal..LOL..ok I get it now
LOL. Deecal, deckal, potato, potatoe
Dee-Cal
Finally some one who call a decal a decal and not a deeeeekal, inho. sorry, I am CDN !
Potatoe, potato, just don't like them called "stickers" LOL
Do you mean DE CALS????
Isn't that what I said? ;)
Deeee-cal lol
potato potatoe ;)
De-Cal!
Potato - potatoe LOL