Learned the hard way about Mr super clear, just today, I finally painted a custom figure of an original character I made using hobby store craft acrylics. Paintjob wasn't too bad. It was close to what I wanted. I applied some Mr. super clear, and it fogged up, making the figure look like the paint washed off down to the primer I used😅. Will invest in Mr. Top Coat.
I used the same and i realized you should not paint it when it is hot, above 30 degrees Celsius otherwise it will fog. Otherthan that not too bad. In your case maybe you needed to add Mr super clear shine before ? Yes i just read the manual after also ....
I used another one not showed in the video that gives uv protection and flat and it works on decals and waterbase acrylic (but it doesn't work on laquer paints it washes it away )
Hmm doing some research i believe you can spray the lacquer mr super clear over water based acrylics. Just as long as you let the acrylic paint fully cure for 24 hours.
Testing is the only way to know for sure. NEVER go to the work in progress until you know for sure that the combo of paints clears etc. you are using are compatible. I had some horrible experiences in the past.
Sorry, no personal experience trying it, hopefully someone will see your question and chime in. We have sanding cloths and pads that go from 3200 to 12000 grit.
So let me get this straight. Do I need to use an enamel thinner on my aoshima model kit before I apply the Mr topcoat gloss? Or is it already thin so that when I apply it, it already does its job?
Hi, sorry not clear on your question. No matter what you paint your model with, you have to be certain the clear top coat is compatible with that paint. Always test first!
What are these products based on chemically? I heard to use Enamel or Lacquer varnishes when painting with acrylics and vice versa since you don't want solvents to get through the varnish when you're painting over it?
Mr Hobby sprays are lacquer based. Certain ones are recommended to go over the acrylic paints (refer to their web site, I think I mentioned some in the video) but always test. Years ago I put Testors Glosscote (a lacquer) over Tamiya Acrylic X-13 Acrylic Metallic Blue. It ran and what a mess!!!!!
My only experience was with the old vinyl models they used to make. You could only paint acrylic products on that stuff, but it didn't flex much. I talked to a car modeler, for tires he uses the tire treatment he uses on real cars that makes them shine.
That's a tricky one. By time you clear coat, typically you have already done all your paint, decals etc. and the clear coat was the "icing on the cake". Anything strong enough to remove it would likely take out what's underneath as well. If you used a lacquer clear, I don't see how you could remove it (any viewers that know otherwise PLEASE chime in here). If you used a clear coat through your airbrush like a Vallejo or Tamiya you "might" get it off with alcohol or windex if it were over a tougher paint like an enamel or lacquer. Did you use the lacquer clear? What happened to it? Some modelers, especially with gloss coats will do light wet sanding between coats. could that be done in this case?
Thanks for sharing with us. Was it all types or any of them in particular? They make so many variations... Glosses have been the worst in my experience (using Tamiya TS13)
I got self conscious for a second, I realized I only ever heard myself and my family say “dee-cals”… from Minnesota so pretty close to the proper English pronunciation zone 😅
Thank you. I was not able to find answer to this. And you helped me. Even guy in shop did told me they are same, but he was wrong
Glad we were able to help. :)
Learned the hard way about Mr super clear, just today, I finally painted a custom figure of an original character I made using hobby store craft acrylics. Paintjob wasn't too bad. It was close to what I wanted. I applied some Mr. super clear, and it fogged up, making the figure look like the paint washed off down to the primer I used😅. Will invest in Mr. Top Coat.
I hate learning things the hard way but it is part of growing in our hobbies. I could tell stories.....
I used the same and i realized you should not paint it when it is hot, above 30 degrees Celsius otherwise it will fog. Otherthan that not too bad. In your case maybe you needed to add Mr super clear shine before ? Yes i just read the manual after also ....
PS: thank you to Hobby Center for making us reading the instructions on the official website 😉
@@GenoGENOVA mineral oil actually fixed the problem.
I used another one not showed in the video that gives uv protection and flat and it works on decals and waterbase acrylic (but it doesn't work on laquer paints it washes it away )
This was very helpful
Can you do a video on
Mr Hobby Primers ?
Great suggestion. We'll work up something.
Hmm doing some research i believe you can spray the lacquer mr super clear over water based acrylics. Just as long as you let the acrylic paint fully cure for 24 hours.
Thanks for sharing, I was using info I got from the Mr Hobby site but use and experience is the real measure of how these things work.
I’ve used Mr Super clear over Vallejo acrylic paint with no problems. Maybe I was just lucky…
Testing is the only way to know for sure. NEVER go to the work in progress until you know for sure that the combo of paints clears etc. you are using are compatible. I had some horrible experiences in the past.
Im wondering how glossy the Mr Hobby top premium is?...also do you carry sand paper to sand clear coat?
Like 3, 4, 8, 10,000 etc?
Sorry, no personal experience trying it, hopefully someone will see your question and chime in. We have sanding cloths and pads that go from 3200 to 12000 grit.
more matte then gloss in my limited experience
So let me get this straight. Do I need to use an enamel thinner on my aoshima model kit before I apply the Mr topcoat gloss? Or is it already thin so that when I apply it, it already does its job?
Hi, sorry not clear on your question. No matter what you paint your model with, you have to be certain the clear top coat is compatible with that paint. Always test first!
@@hobcen thanks
What are these products based on chemically? I heard to use Enamel or Lacquer varnishes when painting with acrylics and vice versa since you don't want solvents to get through the varnish when you're painting over it?
Mr Hobby sprays are lacquer based. Certain ones are recommended to go over the acrylic paints (refer to their web site, I think I mentioned some in the video) but always test. Years ago I put Testors Glosscote (a lacquer) over Tamiya Acrylic X-13 Acrylic Metallic Blue. It ran and what a mess!!!!!
Any idea on what gloss i can use on rubber?
My only experience was with the old vinyl models they used to make. You could only paint acrylic products on that stuff, but it didn't flex much. I talked to a car modeler, for tires he uses the tire treatment he uses on real cars that makes them shine.
How do you remove the top coat?
That's a tricky one. By time you clear coat, typically you have already done all your paint, decals etc. and the clear coat was the "icing on the cake". Anything strong enough to remove it would likely take out what's underneath as well. If you used a lacquer clear, I don't see how you could remove it (any viewers that know otherwise PLEASE chime in here). If you used a clear coat through your airbrush like a Vallejo or Tamiya you "might" get it off with alcohol or windex if it were over a tougher paint like an enamel or lacquer. Did you use the lacquer clear? What happened to it? Some modelers, especially with gloss coats will do light wet sanding between coats. could that be done in this case?
Not true , try using this over an enamel like revell or humbrol and you get a very violent reaction !
Thanks for sharing with us. Was it all types or any of them in particular? They make so many variations... Glosses have been the worst in my experience (using Tamiya TS13)
What in the name of God is a dekal?
The King's English sir. We are Canadian and that's how we say it. ;) Means the same either way.
I got self conscious for a second, I realized I only ever heard myself and my family say “dee-cals”… from Minnesota so pretty close to the proper English pronunciation zone 😅