The Secret to Weathering Black Railcars
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Ever wonder how to give a weathered appearance to black or dark-coloured surfaces on your models? Joe G asked this question, and we take a shot at it in this first of what I hope to be many Q&A tutorial video on JC’s Riptrack.
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Some Products Featured in this video:
Atlas N-Scale GP15-1 from Midwest Model Railroad:
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Athearn has an HO Scale GP15-1 Locomotive that is similar: amzn.to/2PIxEZW
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Games Workshop Paints:
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Ammo by Mig:
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So have you a question you would like answered when it comes to weathering? Post it here, and it may get featured in a future video!
You said Joe G, That is Amazing! Joe you are famous
Great subject, John. Black and red are the hardest to weather. You might think about doing a complimentary video on weathering red cars. The tank car fading came out pretty well. Good video.
That's a great idea Ron! I happen to have some footage of a red gondola around here, and I have enough CP Rail modellers nearby that I am sure that I could have a red locomotive served up for some grunge. :_)
I like how you use all different types of produces and that I have never heard you say do it this way or it's not right. To many RUclips modelers feel and say this in there own around about way. keep up the great videos.
Thanks Phillip. I have been trying to keep away from passing judgement on techniques or materials, but rather trying to expand a hobbyist's library of resources and tools.
JC...another JC here.
Love the content...instant sub.
Thank you. 👌
Welcome aboard! :)
subbed to you. VERY nice guidance. im learning how to weather and I find your content great!!! thank you!
Thanks for the sub!
JC, saw that your are starting to use Pan Pastels. I have had very good results fading dark cars, including black, using PP Burnt Sienna tint - 2704.8. It is light enough to fade but not white enough to look wrong. Depending on the surface where it is applied, can end patchy. That can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on the effect that you want. I apply quite heaviliy and then use a clean makeup sponge or a paper towel to spread a remove som of the PP.
Thanks Stefan. I have mostly dark colours so far. I think I've figured out their colour system, at least in part, in that the number after the decimal indicates how light or how dark something is. x.1 is dark, while x.8 is a "tint" and much lighter. I will need to get me some tints. :)
fading is the 'secret' to most/all weathering, and is an art. Fading with airbrushed very-thinned white (perhaps the most commonly recommended way) can go wrong so easily (most common = 'frosted look') and again I think it worth mentioning -> less is more.
Sneak up on your fade, with multiple layers/media.
Great advice TP. One of the things that I will cover when I do a little bit more with fading is also customizing one's colour choices if part of the fading process is done with an airbrush. Sky grey, as mentioned elsewhere is a warmish grey, for example, that has at least a bit of yellow in it. So if there were some yellow markings on this model, one could fade the base black paint with a lesser impact on yellow markings. Keep a colour wheel handy... :)
Yes. I paid close attention.
And I think my own fades got better when got into the habit of studying their look in the prototype photo I had selected to model. And doing so WHILE applying the fade(s).
I well remember doing my first black car.. it wasn't the best. But one learns, and improves. Now...white cars? There's a tricky one!
;)
Nice job answering the viewer question. I look forward to future videos!
Great and informative video
Thank you
Glad you like it. Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for posting this video!
Instant sub when i found it. Keep up the good work :D
//Fredrik from Sweden
Thanks for tuning in Frederik. I'm just getting caught up on the comments now. Hopefully you found this useful. I have a black locomotive video in the works. :)
John you're doing a great job with these videos! How did you keep the yellow from turning grey? Qtip/alcohol right after airbrushing? Ever try pastels to avoid the frosty airbrush look?
+Bill Mourey Thanks! It depends on the subject. Tamiya Sky Grey has a slight yellow tinge to it, so it can fade the black without impacting yellow print *as much*. Airbrush fading is not really a one-colour-fits-all process, and I almost never use it without another process to break up the look. As for pastels or pigments, watch for a later video. ;)
Thank you very much for answering my question, I'll save this video for when I weather my car!
No problem at all Joe... glad that you asked it. :)
Nice one John, you mentioned the main point which is that there really is no such thing as "black" in the real world of weathered rolling ...it's always just a lighter or darker shade of grey.
Tommo
Yup! Even then, even most black paint isn't truly black, but more like a very dark shade of blue. Mix it with yellow and you get this kind of olive green, which gives it away.
I've never weathered anything using oils but have always wanted to. I have some junk cars l guess l could practice on.
Practicing on your junk cars is the best way to go. The worst that can happen? They're still junk. The best? Suddenly they become centrepieces for your layout! :)
Right on!
Great video, looks like I will need to pick up some oil paints! Do you have a video on weathering green colored cars? Say, BN, procor, Great Northern or PC hoppers?
I see how you use many paint types during a project, both oils and acrylics. I was always told you could apply acrylics over oils but never oils over acrylics?
You can do both, but you need to take steps to protect the previous work. I usually suggest applying a clear coat of some sort. Most of the work that I do starts with acrylics, and then oils come later. However, a lot of it also depends on paint brands as their chemical composition is different. Not all acrylic paints are the same. For example, Golden Acrylics clear coats do not go over oils well, but on the other hand Tamiya Flat clear and Gloss clear go over oils fine... just make sure they have 24 hours to dry.
@@JCsRiptrack I'm at the bottom of this learning curve. I need to stop watching the videos and take the plunge and start painting. Not all the products you use are available to us in my country, just the major brands like Tamiya, Citadel and those expensive tubes of oil paints the artists use. It is the sealer coats I'm having issues with (I have never seen that floor polish you like to use). Thanks for your inspiring RUclips videos.
Thanks. If I may ask, where are you watching from? I may be able to give you some tips on sealer coats. "Future" is available under many different brand names, so I may be able to help you find the version that Johnson & Johnson markets where you are. One thing about oil tubes, one tube of a given paint will last you years. Some of my tubes are well over a decade old and still useable, so the cost over time isn't that bad.
@@JCsRiptrack I'm in South Africa.
From what I understand, the names have changed a bit. At one point it was called "Mr. Muscle" in a pink plastic bottle with the "Future" logo on the bottom of the label or Johnsons "One Step" which is chemically identical to "Future". However, I think Johnsons has changed things up a bit. In Canada "Future" is now called "Pledge Revive It" --but my bottle is still the original cover and has lasted me a long time. Failing that, Tamiya Flat Clear and Tamiya Gloss Clear are both excellent clear coats.
Another great video and information been looking for myself to weather some tank cars. I might have missed it in another video, but why do you use the Pledge Futureshine over alcohol or water to thin your paints?
Thanks! Oh! I think I should make something clear: Pledge Futureshine/Johnson Klear (or whatever it is called locally) is *not* for thinning my paints! It's clear acrylic, so I use it as a gloss clear-coat straight, or mix it with Tamiya Flat base in different ratios for Satin or Flat coats. Like paints it also needs to be thinned down. For a thinner for Future, Tamiya Paints and Games Workshop/Citadel paints I use denatured alcohol, usually Tamiya's own X-20A thinner, but drugstores carry 91% alcohol as well, and I believe it is the same stuff. So for me I treat future as simply a "clear paint". I'm sorry if that wasn't clear in my videos. When I thin stuff down, it depends on the viscosity of the paint, but I add enough thinner to whatever it is to get the consistency of milk.
Does the US not really use black container wagons? They’re pretty much the only freight traffic you see where I live in NZ and it’s really hard to find any info on weathering models of them.
MarMightyGood: There are others that know this better than I do. Do you have any pictures that you could send to me (my email address is in the "about" section). Most of the black cars that you find in the US and Canada are either Tank cars (most of them are black), gondolas, and covered hoppers designed to carry Carbon Black. There are some exceptions from some lesser known roads. The principles of weathering black cars is similar: fade the paint until it takes on a greyish tone, and then other weathering effects become more visible.
I've not seen container cars here that look like that. Most containers are shipped in dedicated well cars with sides that come up around the edge of a lower container. It allows the containers to be transported stacked two high. Those look like specialized flat cars, which we do see various forms of around here. The main thing when weathering a car like that is the surface of the wagon will get a lot of wear and tear from the containers being moved on and off of it. Chips, scrapes, rust, etc will be on the flat surface. Apply a light grey misting to tone down the black, apply some chipping, and dust and that could be a quick way to do it. (sorry for the delay on the response)!
When using the dot technique, what list of oil colors would
you recommend for a freight car painted boxcar red, Tuscan red or oxide red?Thanks.
Probably the oil colours I would use for your more typical red-brown boxcar, I would go with Titanium White, Cadmium Red, Cadmium Yellow, Burnt Umber, and Terra Verte (Green). These are the Winsor-Newton names for them. If you happen to have access to the Abteilung 502 oil range, I would go with the rust and reds set: amzn.to/2D7JoRD - The colours are a bit different, but they will most certainly work. The if you do go with the Winsor-Newton line, the green works by way of being a contrasting dark colour. Use it sparingly. Even with the Abteilung rust and reds set, I would probably advise on getting titanium white as well, as you'll need it to lighten the colours. How's that?
I will give it a go. Thank you.
I would have liked the video slowed just a bit to really see your actually applying your weathering technique?
Please no offense...its a food video... just wanted to study your technique... its just way too fast during your application.😊